WO2018108871A1 - Composition comprenant au moins une huile et un polyester - Google Patents

Composition comprenant au moins une huile et un polyester Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018108871A1
WO2018108871A1 PCT/EP2017/082350 EP2017082350W WO2018108871A1 WO 2018108871 A1 WO2018108871 A1 WO 2018108871A1 EP 2017082350 W EP2017082350 W EP 2017082350W WO 2018108871 A1 WO2018108871 A1 WO 2018108871A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
fatty acid
preferentially
composition
oil
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2017/082350
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Noémie PIOUD
Céline DEMARCQ
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2018108871A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018108871A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P1/00—Drugs for disorders of the alimentary tract or the digestive system
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one liquid polyester, a fatty acid ester of a polyol, a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin, and an aliphatic monoalcohol, and to the cosmetic use and to the process for treating keratin materials, such as bodily or facial skin, in particular for caring for said keratin materials.
  • Formulations intended for caring for in particular the lips have been known for a very long time and are in varied forms, ranging from fluid formulations such as glosses, to optionally supported solid compositions in the form of a stick, or even compositions in the form of a pencil.
  • the formulation of natural cosmetic products is especially becoming a major challenge to satisfy a new consumer expectation, in particular that of products certified as being natural and/or biological.
  • composition according to the invention comprising at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol and at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units, satisfies this need.
  • the object of the present invention is thus to obtain a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular such as a transparent oil for the lips, which is stable over time and glossy, while at the same time having good sensory properties on application, such as having little or no tack and/or good glidance, and which especially affords, after application, a film deposit which has good staying power.
  • a cosmetic composition in particular such as a transparent oil for the lips, which is stable over time and glossy, while at the same time having good sensory properties on application, such as having little or no tack and/or good glidance, and which especially affords, after application, a film deposit which has good staying power.
  • composition also makes it possible especially to moisturize keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips.
  • One subject of the present invention is a composition comprising: a) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol; b) at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin comprising C12 to C22 alkyl chains; and d) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; characterized in that the total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight and even more preferentially between
  • the composition comprises at least two non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin that are different from each other, as defined in c) and/or the oil(s) (c) are chosen from triglycerides constituted of fatty acids and of glycerols.
  • compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application to the skin or the integuments, and contain a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • a composition of the invention is especially a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, intended to be applied to a keratin material, in particular the lips or the skin, for instance a lip oil.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units.
  • the polyglycerol esters according to the invention are glycerol esters (or monoglyceryl esters) or polyglycerol esters (or polyglyceryl esters) such as diglyceryl (or diglycerol) esters.
  • the (poly)glycerol ester according to the invention results from the esterification of at least one saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, preferably monounsaturated and/or polyunsaturated fatty acid and of a (poly)glycerol.
  • polyglycerol denotes glycerol or glyceryl polymers.
  • the polyglycerol is generally a linear sequence, preferably comprising from 2 to 25 and preferably of 10 to 20 glycerol units, in particular from 13 to 17 glycerol units.
  • esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and of C12-C24, preferably C16 to C22 and preferably C18 carboxylic acid(s), such as palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, gondoic or erucic acid.
  • the fatty acid esters are saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • the mixture of esters comprises at least 15% and more preferentially at least 35% of unsaturated fatty acid ester.
  • the carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.
  • esters that are suitable for use in the present invention may be derived from the esterification of a polyglycerol with one or more identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated monoester, a hydroxylated diester, a hydroxylated triester, or a mixture thereof.
  • a preferred composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises an ester of (poly)glycerol chosen from the group constituted of glycerol and glycerol polymers.
  • the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from a mixture of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular formed from 2 to 25 glycerol units, and in which the mixture preferably comprises at least 30% or more of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising several glycerol units, more preferentially 40%.
  • the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units.
  • the starting material of fatty acid esters of (poly)glycerol present in the composition of the invention comprises fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing 70% or more of polyglycerols whose degree of polymerization is 4 or more, fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing not more than 30% of polymerization with a degree of polymerization of 5.
  • the fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol according to the invention have a number-average molar mass (Mn) of between 1700 and 2300 g/mol; and/or a mass- average molar mass (Mw) of between 7000 and 9400 g/mol, as polystyrene equivalents, and/or a polydispersity index Ip in the range 3.5-4.7, when analysed in tetrahydrofuran (THF) by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) with refractometric detection.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • Mw mass- average molar mass
  • Ip polydispersity index
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • Mw mass-average molar mass means the average of the molar masses of all the chains weighted by the mass of the chains of each length.
  • Mw mass-average molar mass
  • the saponification number of the fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol is between 150 and 250 mg KOH/g, preferentially between 170 and 200 mg KOH/g.
  • spontaneousification number means the mass of potassium hydroxide KOH, expressed in milligrams, required to neutralize the free fatty acids and to saponify the esterified fatty acids contained in 1 g of fatty substance.
  • the saponification number of the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is less than 10 mg KOH/g, preferentially less than 5 mg KOH/g.
  • the term "acid number” means the mass of potassium hydroxide (KOH), expressed in mg, required to neutralize the free acidity contained in 1 g of fatty substance.
  • KOH potassium hydroxide
  • the hydroxyl number of the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is between 20 and 50 mg KOH/g, preferentially between 30 and 45 mg KOH/g.
  • hydroxyl number means the number which expresses in mg the amount of potassium hydroxide required for neutralization of the acid which is combined by acylation with 1 g of substance.
  • a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention may be prepared according to the preparation process described in patent applications US 8420842, US9139504 or WO 2000/026265.
  • mixture of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol a) comprising alkyl chains containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and formed from 2 or 25 glycerol units that is particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name Viamerine 1000 Deodorized® from the company Aldivia.
  • the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is present in a content of between 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 17% to 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyester as defined below. It may thus comprise a single polyester or a mixture of several different polyesters.
  • liquid polyester means a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).
  • the term "unsaturated fatty acids” denotes monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimers may especially comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6, carboxylic acid functions per molecule.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and two carboxylic acid functions.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid trimer may comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and three carboxylic acid functions.
  • the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and two carboxylic acid functions, and a diol.
  • Mixtures of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and trimers and/or of unsaturated fatty acid may also be used in the context of the invention.
  • preference is given to a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight and preferably more than 95% of acids in the form of dimers, the remainder of the mixture possibly being unsaturated fatty acid trimers and/or monomers.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer may be optionally hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid in order especially to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.
  • Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are sold especially under the brand names Empol 1008, Empol 1004, Empol 1025, Empol 101 1 and Empol 1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is particularly preferably a linoleic acid dimer, also known as dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably of plant origin.
  • a fatty acid of plant origin may originate from any plant source that produces said fatty acid.
  • use may be made of molecules extracted from soybean or from rapeseed.
  • the polyester in the composition according to the invention is thus obtained by condensation of a long-chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol.
  • diol means a C2 to C10, preferably C2-C8 and preferentially C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based compound, the carbon chain of which is substituted with two hydroxyl functions.
  • the hydrocarbon-based chain(s) may be interrupted with an oxygen atom.
  • the diols that may be used according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
  • the diol is a saturated linear diol.
  • the diol is a propanediol, especially 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3-propanediol or 1 ,4-propanediol, and preferably 1 ,3-propanediol.
  • the diol is a butanediol, especially 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3- butanediol or 1 ,4-butanediol, and preferably 1 ,4-butanediol.
  • the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000 and preferentially between 1200 and 1800.
  • the polyester obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,3-propanediol.
  • the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,3-propanediol preferably with an average molecular weight of 1500, a viscosity at 40°C of 3000-6000 cSt and a refractive index at 25°C of 1 .475- 1 .485.
  • the polyester obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol.
  • the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol preferably with an average molecular weight of 1500, a viscosity at 40°C of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25°C of 1 .475- 1 .485. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer).
  • Said liquid polyester(s) are present in a content of between 10% and 40% by weight, preferably between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 20% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of (poly)glycerol is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight, even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, in particular 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the mass ratio of the total content of said polyester(s) relative to the total content of fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol is between 0.3 and 4, preferentially between 0.6 and 2.3, more preferentially between 1 .1 and 1 .3, in particular 1 .25.
  • composition in particular the cosmetic composition, especially comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin chosen from non-volatile plant oils or triglycerides.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin chosen from non-volatile plant oils or triglycerides, which are different from each other.
  • oil means a compound whose maximum viscosity is 200 000 cPs (200 Pa.s) at 25°C.
  • non-volatile refers to a compound whose vapour pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin with a molecular weight of greater than 400 Da, preferably greater than 500 Da.
  • Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin with a molecular weight of greater than 400 Da may be chosen from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based plant oils containing fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chains of C4 to C28, such as jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algal oil, Ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame seed oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, kaya oil, coconut oil, marula oil, camellina oil, coriander oil, Limnanthes oil, pracaxi oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, poppy oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and/or
  • composition may comprise at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin which are different from each other; preferably, these said oils are chosen from saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based plant oils, containing saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with C4 to C28 alkyl chains.
  • Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin comprise at least 40% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C24 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a C14-C22 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid.
  • said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin comprise at least 60% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C22 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 70% of fatty acid bearing a C16-C20 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 80% of fatty acid bearing a C18 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a monounsaturated C18 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid.
  • Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin that are particularly preferred comprise at least 50% of monounsaturated C18 fatty acid relative to the total weight of fatty acid and have a molecular weight of greater than 500 Da.
  • composition according to the invention comprises apricot kernel oil, castor oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • Said plant oil(s) are present in a content of between 10% and 80% by weight, preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight and even more preferentially between 30% and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises:
  • the total content of said polyester(s) a) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol b) is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight and even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin c) is between 10% and 80% by weight, preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight and even more preferentially between 30% and 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the mass ratio of the total content of said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin c) relative to the total content [of said polyester(s) a) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol b)] as defined above is between 0.1 and 4.25, preferably between 0.3 and 2.4, even more preferentially between 0.5 and 1 .8, in particular between 0.6 and 1 .5.
  • compositions of the invention comprise at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably in a content of less than 10% by weight, and preferably in a content of less than 6% by weight, preferentially less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monoalcohol is present in a content of between 0.5% and 6% by weight and preferentially between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention may comprise one or more monoalcohol(s).
  • aliphatic monoalcohol means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol, or mixtures thereof.
  • the weight amounts of monoalcohol(s) correspond either to the weight amount of the monoalcohol if the composition comprises only one monoalcohol, or to the total weight amount of all the monoalcohols if the composition comprises a mixture of several monoalcohols.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously cosmetic.
  • composition means a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, especially the epidermis, the lips and the oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleansing them, making them more attractive, fragrancing them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odours.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium”.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition, and that is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which is free of any odour or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
  • the viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 reference rheometer with the aid of a spindle of size 1 to 5 depending on the measurement volume.
  • the rheometer is immersed into the formulation, at a temperature of 25°C. Measurements are taken at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes. The value obtained is in deviation units and should be between 10 and 90 DU at 10 minutes.
  • the spindle used is a No. 3 spindle. The values are converted into mPa.s.
  • the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 1000 and 1500 mPa.s, or between 25 and 35 DU.
  • the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from the adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics field, such as pigments and/or dyes.
  • adjuvants are, for example, active principles, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, film-forming agents, surfactants, co-surfactants, moisturizers, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, pH regulators, antiinflammatory agents, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and also lipid vesicles.
  • compositions according to the invention at least one compound chosen from: desquamating agents; calmatives, organic or mineral photoprotective agents, moisturizers; depigmenting agents; anti- glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation; agents for stimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocyte proliferation or for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents; tensioning agents; anti-pollution agents and/or free-radical scavengers; agents acting on the microcirculation; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; and mixtures thereof.
  • desquamating agents calmatives, organic or mineral photoprotective agents, moisturizers; depigmenting agents; anti- glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation; agents for stimulating fibroblast
  • these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.001 % to 20% by weight and preferentially from 0.01 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • these adjuvants may be introduced into the oily phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.
  • These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various forms, and in particular may be in the form of a lip oil, preferably in the form of a liquid lip oil.
  • compositions of the invention may be used in any application, such as in cosmetics or dermatology, for example in cosmetics for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which includes any cosmetic application for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • cosmetics or dermatology for example in cosmetics for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which includes any cosmetic application for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • keratin material is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the nails. The lips are most particularly under consideration according to the invention.
  • the composition described is administered topically and is suitable for use in a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin and/or the lips.
  • the composition described is suitable for use, such as cosmetic use, by topical application of the composition, to preserve and/or reinforce the natural barrier function of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and/or to moisturize keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips.
  • the compositions according to the invention may be included in the manufacture of protective, treatment or care products for the face, for the hands or for the body, in particular of the face or of the body, as makeup products. It is directed in particular toward the use, such as the cosmetic use, for preserving and/or reinforcing the natural barrier function of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum of the skin and/or the lips.
  • compositions such as cosmetic compositions, according to the invention have applications in a large number of cosmetic treatments for keratin materials, and more especially the skin and/or the lips, in particular for obtaining a feeling of softness of the skin and/or the lips and a silky effect, but also for the nutrition, comfort and sheen of the skin and/or the lips.
  • composition of the invention is particularly suitable for treating dehydrated, rough or sensitive skin and/or lips.
  • a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for caring for the skin and/or the lips, especially dehydrated skin and/or lips.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin and/or the lips, comprising a topical administration of a composition according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, by topical application of the composition to said keratin materials, preferably to moisturize the skin.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup base process for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, by application of the composition as described in the invention, as a makeup base.
  • the makeup process may comprise a step of extemporaneous mixing of the composition according to the invention with an adjuvant, followed by application to the keratin materials.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a composition as defined above, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
  • said liquid polyester(s) preferably said polyester(s) of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol
  • said fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units, preferably comprising an alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and 10 to 20 glycerol units, at room temperature.
  • a translucent, homogeneous composition is thus obtained.
  • Example 1 Evaluation of the viscosity and of the sensory properties
  • compositions were prepared and evaluated as regards their viscosity and their sensory properties.
  • Castor oil (INCI name: Ricinus 33% 33% 33%
  • Viscoplast 14436 H® by
  • compositions were prepared according to a process with a deflocculator.
  • phase A is homogenized in a deflocculator at room temperature.
  • Phase B is then added to phase A in the deflocculator at room temperature.
  • a translucent, homogeneous formulation is obtained after leaving to stand for 12 hours.
  • the viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 reference rheometer with the aid of a spindle of size 1 to 5 depending on the measurement volume.
  • the rheometer is immersed into the formulation, at a temperature of 25°C. Measurements are taken at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes. The value obtained is in deviation units and should be between 10 and 90 DU at 10 minutes.
  • the spindle used is a No. 3 spindle. The values are converted into mPa.s.
  • the gloss measurement may be performed using a glossmeter at 3 angles: 20°, 60° and 85°.
  • the index of light reflected on the product is calculated in Gloss Units (GU).
  • GUI Gloss Units
  • the formulation is spread on an Erichsen contrast card using a film spreader to a thickness of 100 ⁇ .
  • the gloss measurement is taken on the white part of the card.
  • the evaluation may be performed by detaching the lips only once.
  • the measurement of the tack may be performed using a texturometer, for example of the reference Tex'An 200.
  • the tack (J/m 2 ) is calculated from the area under the curve during the shrinkage phase: Area under the curve
  • staying power of the film means the more or less rapid penetration of the product or the thickness of the film on the lips over time. The evaluation is made by pressing the lips together and then sliding them one against the other.
  • film formation means the ability of the composition to form a film on the lips.
  • the thickness of the film is measured by tactile evaluation known as “blotting”. Measurement of the glidance
  • glidance means the evaluation of the "blotting" of the glidance, i.e. by pressing the lips together and then sliding them one against the other. The ease of moving the lips one against the other, without friction or dragging, is measured. The various aspects of the compositions are evaluated before, after and on application.
  • composition according to comparative example A outside the invention is sparingly glossy, is very tacky and not at all glidant on application, and makes it possible on application to obtain a small amount of film-forming effect, but which is not at all persistent over time.
  • composition according to comparative example B outside the invention not comprising any fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention, is sparingly glossy, has acceptable tack and glidance sensory properties on application, but does not make it possible to obtain a film on application.
  • composition 1 comprising at least one liquid polyester and at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention is glossy while at the same time having sensory properties, no tackiness and good glidance on application, while at the same time allowing a film which shows good staying power over time.
  • Example 2 Composition according to the invention; liquid lip oil
  • Example 2 The composition of Example 2 applied to the lips makes it possible to moisturize the lips while at the same time giving a sparingly tacky and very glidant long-lasting film.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, comprenant : a) au moins un polyester liquide obtenu par condensation d'un dimère et/ou d'un trimère d'acides gras insaturés et d'un diol ; b) au moins un ester d'acide gras de polyglycérol qui est choisi parmi un ester d'acide gras de (poly)glycérol formé à partir d'au moins un acide comprenant une chaîne alkyle comportant de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone et de 2 à 25 unités glycérol ; c) au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile d'origine végétale comprenant des chaînes alkyle C12 à C22 ; et d) au moins un monoalcool aliphatique comprenant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone ; caractérisée en ce que la teneur totale dudit polyester et dudit ester d'acide gras de polyglycérol se situe entre 25 % et 70 % en poids, de manière préférentielle entre 30 % et 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique de matières kératiniques, comprenant une administration topique de ladite composition.
PCT/EP2017/082350 2016-12-16 2017-12-12 Composition comprenant au moins une huile et un polyester WO2018108871A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1662700A FR3060330B1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2016-12-16 Composition comprenant au moins une huile et un polyester
FR1662700 2016-12-16

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WO2018108871A1 true WO2018108871A1 (fr) 2018-06-21

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FR (1) FR3060330B1 (fr)
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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000026265A1 (fr) 1998-10-30 2000-05-11 Aldivia S.A. Procede de polymerisation par chauffage dielectrique d'acides gras insatures, d'esters d'acides gras insatures, d'hydrocarbures insatures, ou de derives insatures de ces produits
JP2004137214A (ja) * 2002-10-18 2004-05-13 Noevir Co Ltd 口唇用化粧料
FR2931673A1 (fr) * 2008-06-02 2009-12-04 Oreal Compositions a base de polyester et d'huile volatile et leurs utilisations.
FR2931672A1 (fr) * 2008-06-02 2009-12-04 Oreal Compositions contenant un polyester un un solvant et leurs utilisations.
WO2010076484A1 (fr) * 2008-12-16 2010-07-08 L'oreal Composition cosmetique anhydre comprenant un polyester, une huile volatile et une huile non volatile.
US8420842B2 (en) 2001-07-02 2013-04-16 Aldivia Sa Lanolin substitute, production method thereof and applications of same

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000026265A1 (fr) 1998-10-30 2000-05-11 Aldivia S.A. Procede de polymerisation par chauffage dielectrique d'acides gras insatures, d'esters d'acides gras insatures, d'hydrocarbures insatures, ou de derives insatures de ces produits
US8420842B2 (en) 2001-07-02 2013-04-16 Aldivia Sa Lanolin substitute, production method thereof and applications of same
US9139504B2 (en) 2001-07-02 2015-09-22 Aldivia Sa Lanolin substitute, production method thereof and applications of same
JP2004137214A (ja) * 2002-10-18 2004-05-13 Noevir Co Ltd 口唇用化粧料
FR2931673A1 (fr) * 2008-06-02 2009-12-04 Oreal Compositions a base de polyester et d'huile volatile et leurs utilisations.
FR2931672A1 (fr) * 2008-06-02 2009-12-04 Oreal Compositions contenant un polyester un un solvant et leurs utilisations.
WO2010076484A1 (fr) * 2008-12-16 2010-07-08 L'oreal Composition cosmetique anhydre comprenant un polyester, une huile volatile et une huile non volatile.

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FR3060330A1 (fr) 2018-06-22

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