WO2017174101A1

WO2017174101A1 - Method for knitting a collar of a garment on a knitting machine

Info

Publication number: WO2017174101A1
Application number: PCT/EP2016/000589
Authority: WO
Inventors: Howard Williams
Original assignee: Puma SE
Priority date: 2016-04-09
Filing date: 2016-04-09
Publication date: 2017-10-12

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for knitting a collar (1) of a garment on a knitting machine (2), wherein the knitting machine (2) has a first knitting bed (3) and a second knitting bed (4), wherein a plurality of first knitting needles (5) is arranged on the first knitting bed (3) and a plurality of second knitting needles (6) is arranged on the second knitting bed (4), which knitting needles (5, 6) can be individually activated or deactivated by means of a machine control. To improve the folding of the collar even after a long use the proposed method comprises the steps of: a) Producing a first section (I) of the collar (1), wherein the production of the first section (I) takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) are activated and cooperate to knit the first section (I); b) Producing of a second section (II) of the collar (1) being a folding line of the collar, wherein the production of the second section (II) takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) are activated and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) are deactivated; c) Producing a third section (III) of the collar (1), wherein the production of the third section (III) takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) are activated and cooperate to knit the third section (I).

Description

Method for Knitting a Collar of a Garment on a Knitting Machine

The invention relates to a method for knitting a collar of a garment on a knitting machine, wherein the knitting machine has a first knitting bed and a second knitting bed, wherein a plurality of first knitting needles is arranged on the first knitting bed and a plurality of second knitting needles is arranged on the second knitting bed, wherein the knitting needles can be individually activated or deactivated by means of a machine control.

A method of the generic kind for knitting parts of a garment is well-known in the art. Reference is made for example to DE 10 2010 010 892 B4 which discloses a flat knitting machine; specific knitting needle systems which can be used during the automated knitting operation on the knitting machine are shown for example in DE 34 33 628 C2. The knitting technology and specifically the knitting by means of knitting machines is explained in detail in David J. Spencer "B nitting Technology" (Pergamon Press, Oxford, 1989, ISBN 0-08-035911-6). Explicit reference to the mentioned prior art is made to avoid repetition of known technology here. With respect to the machine knitting of a collar for the garment the problem occurs that the original flat knitting part of the collar must be folded for establishing the required design and function. Traditionally, the collar is produced on a knitting machine and is then formed to the desired shape; the basic geometry is thus rectangular (specifically in the case of a flat-bed rib collar). It is also known to produce a 3-D collar which shape is formed by hot pressing at a finishing stage of the garment manufacturing.

The drawback of hot pressed collars is that those collars cannot retain their shape after wash. The crease line (folding line) is created by pressing and is not permanent. So the fold line between the collar leaf and the collar stand is not distinct and clear.

Due to this problem normally only one yarn type is used in one collar. This is due to the fact that no flexibility is given to shape the collar stand and collar leaf separately. Thus, it is an o b j e c t of the present invention to propose a method for knitting a collar for a garment which allows an easy and permanent folding along a desired folding line even after a long use of the garment. Thus, the folding line for folding the section of the collar should be kept permanently. The s o l u t i o n of this object according to the invention is characterized in that the method comprises the steps of: a) Producing a first section of the collar, wherein the production of the first section takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles of the first knitting bed and a corresponding number of second knitting needles of the second knitting bed are activated and cooperate to knit the first section; b) Producing of a second section of the collar being a folding line of the collar, wherein the production of the second section takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles of the first knitting bed are activated and a corresponding number of second knitting needles of the second knitting bed are deactivated to obtain a knitting structure of the second section which is different from or distinct to the first section;

Producing a third section of the collar, wherein the production of the third section takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles of the first knitting bed and a corresponding number of second knitting needles of the second knitting bed are activated and cooperate to knit the third section preferably to obtain the same knitting structure as in step a).

The first section has preferably a substantial rectangular shape.

Between above mentioned step a) and step b) additional parts of the first section can be knitted. The additional parts of the first section can be lateral sections of the collar which are substantially symmetrically to a center plane of the collar. The additional parts can be varying in their width in knitting direction. The additional parts can have their biggest width adjacent to the first section and become smaller in width in knitting direction. Thus, the additional parts have preferably a substantial triangular shape. The third section can vary in its width in knitting direction. Thereby, a first part of the third section which is adjoining to the second section can have a width which is increasing in knitting direction. A second part of the third section which is adjoining to the first part of the third second can have a width which is decreasing in knitting direction. Thus, the first part and/or the second part of the third section can have a substantial triangular shape in their end regions.

The extension of the second section (folding line) in knitting direction is preferably between 0.5 mm and 5 mm. Preferably the thickness of the second section (folding section), i. e. of the knitted structure, is reduced compared with the first and/or third section. The thickness of the second section is preferably below 66 % of the thickness of the first and/or third section. Furthermore, a separation section can be knitted adjacent to the third section in knitting direction.

The used knitting machine is preferably a V-bed knitting machine. A preferred embodiment of the invention proposes that different yarns are used for knitting different parts of the collar. This allows specifically the production of the collars with different colors in different areas.

The proposed method allows the production of a collar which is basically self- folding along the produced folding section. Preferably a V-bed knitting machine is used for knitting the collar as usually used for knitted and woven tops. The proposed method establishes a defined engineered curve line during the knitting process to form a one-piece 3D-self-folding section. So, the collar can be knitted to shape and fit the neckline, with good shape retention properties. The curve line construction can help to increase both the function capability (specifically using functional yarns) and design features (design pattern flexibility, e. g. Jacquard text, 3D knitted construction, etc.) comparing with traditional flat knitted collars.

So, beneficially a shape retention neck line can be maintained for a flat knitted self- folding shaped collar after wash.

A two piece collar appearance can be obtained without sewing, i. e. functional and design features can be done by knitting in one process. The collar shape and height dimensions can be adjusted by individual needle selection to achieve a best fit, a broad variety of collar shapes and styles is available.

Also, localised functional properties can be created on the collar, e. g. 3D- geometric knitted structures to aid moisture management at centre back collar stand.

Function yarn can also be knitted at the collar stand for comfort performance requirement.

Furthermore, flexible design features can be implemented due to the defined shape of the self-folding shaped collar line. So, use is made of knitting machines which allow that the single needles of the knitting machine are individually controlled, i. e. activated or deactivated to create the desired shape of the collar as well as the desired shape of the folding line (above mentioned second section).

In the drawings an embodiment of the invention is shown.

Fig. 1 shows a top plan view onto a collar of a garment after finishing the knitting process and before attaching the collar at the garment,

Fig. 2 shows a perspective view of a part of a knitting machine and

Fig. 3 shows schematically a knitting construction sequence of the knitting machine for knitting of the collar according to figure 1.

In figure 1 a finish knitted collar 1 of a garment piece is shown when laying on a flat surface. The collar 1 has a first section I which is the collar leaf. In knitting direction a second section II follows which is a folding line. Then, a third section III is following which is a collar stand. Finally, a separation section VI follows which is used to attach the collar 1 to a piece of garment.

In figure 1 the collar face side is denoted with 7, the collar stand inner side is denoted with 8. The collar 1 is substantially symmetrically to a center plane P. The collar height at the center plane is denoted with H.

The first section I is substantially rectangular. To enlarge the height in the lateral region of the collar 1 additional parts IV and V of the first section I are knitted which form a homogeneous fabric together with the first section I. The width W of the two parts IV and V decreases in knitting direction K.

It can also be seen, that the third section III consists of two parts, namely a first part III A and a second part III B; the two parts III A and III B are separated in figure 1 by a dotted line.

The second section II being the folding line extends in knitting direction by an extension T, which is usually between 0.5 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 1.0 mm and 3.0 mm.

The collar 1 is produced on a knitting machine 2 as schematically shown in figure 2. The knitting machine 2 has a first knitting bed 3 (front bed) and a second knitting bed 4 (back bed); a plurality of knitting needles is arranged on both knitting beds, namely first knitting needles 5 on the front bed and second knitting needles 6 on the back bed.

Each knitting needle can be activated or deactivated by means of the machine control (not shown). That is, each needle can be moved in a translational direction during the knitting process (what is usually caused by a cam system) or can be kept stationary.

By doing so, a knitting process can be carried out in which both needle systems (of the front bed and of the back bed) are activated or by which only one of the mentioned needle systems is used.

The knitting construction sequence of the knitting machine for knitting of the collar 1 is shown in figure 3. The first section I of the collar 1, i. e. the collar leaf, is produced first as a normal rib collar knitting, the start is done with full needles, i. e. along the whole desired width of the collar 1 (one round tubular and full needle knitting up). Thus, a rectangular section is knitted.

Then, the additional part V is knitted. As can be seen in figure 3 the shape with a curved line is created by reducing the number of needles on every second course; thus, the width W of the produced part is reduced in steps. The needles of a transfer section VII are on hold until part V is completed.

After the knitting of part V is completed, a row of full needles for the separation section VII will be knitted, so as to transfer the yarn guide to the left size of the collar 1. Then, the part IV is knitted.

For the production of part IV the same applies as in the case of part V.

Then, a complete row of the second section II is knitted on the front bed needle bar (with the needles of the back bed are passive). This is to create the fold line (thin place) for the collar 1.

Then, the first part III A of the third section III is knitted, i. e. the upper top half of the collar stand. The needle number is increased to compensate the needle reduction from parts IV and V.

Then, the second part III B of the third section III is knitted which is the bottom part of the collar stand. The needle number is reduced as can be seen in figure 3. Finally the separation section VI is knitted which contains the finishing separation rows.

Reference Numerals:

1 Collar

2 Knitting machine

3 First knitting bed

4 Second knitting bed

5 First knitting needle

6 Second knitting needle

7 Collar face side

8 Collar stand inner side

I First section of the collar (collar leaf)

II Second section (folding line)

III Third section of the collar (collar stand)

III A First part of the third section

III B Second part of the third section

IV Additional part of the first section

V Additional part of the first section

VI Separation section

VII Transfer section

P Center plane of the collar

w Width

K Knitting direction

Extension of the second section in knitting direction Collar height at center

Claims

Patent Claims:

1. Method for knitting a collar (1) of a garment on a knitting machine (2), wherein the knitting machine (2) has a first knitting bed (3) and a second knitting bed (4), wherein a plurality of first knitting needles (5) is arranged on the first knitting bed (3) and a plurality of second knitting needles (6) is arranged on the second knitting bed (4), wherein the knitting needles (5, 6) can be individually activated or deactivated by means of a machine control, characterized in that the method comprises the steps of: a) Producing a first section (I) of the collar (1), wherein the production of the first section (I) takes place by a knittmg process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) of the first knitting bed (3) and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) of the second knitting bed (4) are activated and cooperate to knit the first section

(i); b) Producing of a second section (II) of the collar (1) being a folding line of the collar, wherein the production of the second section (II) takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) of the first knitting bed (3) are activated and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) of the second knitting bed (4) are deactivated to obtain a knitting structure of the second section (II) which is different from to the first section (I); c) Producing a third section (III) of the collar (1), wherein the production of the third section (III) takes place by a knitting process in which a number of first knitting needles (5) of the first knitting bed (3) and a corresponding number of second knitting needles (6) of the second knitting bed (4) are activated and cooperate to knit the third section (I).

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the first section (I) has a substantial rectangular shape.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that between step a) and step b) of claim 1 additional parts (IV, V) of the first section (I) are knitted.

4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the additional parts (IV, V) of the first section (I) are lateral sections of the collar (1) which are substantially symmetrically to a center plane (P) of the collar (1).

5. Method according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the additional parts (IV, V) are varying in their width (W) in knitting direction ( ).

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the additional parts (IV, V) have their biggest width adjacent to the first section (I) and become smaller in width in knitting direction (K).

7. Method according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the additional parts (IV, V) have a substantial triangular shape.

8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the third section (III) varies in its width (W) in knitting direction (K).

9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that a first part (III A) of the third section (III) which is adjoining to the second section (II) has a width (W) which is increasing in knitting direction (K).

10. Method according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that a second part (III B) of the third section (III) which is adjoining to the first part (III A) of the third second (III) has a width (W) which is decreasing in knitting direction (K).

11. Method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the first part (III A) and/or the second part (III B) of the third section (III) have a substantial triangular shape in their end regions.

12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the extension (T) of the second section (II) in knitting direction (K) is between 0.5 mm and 5 mm.

Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that separation section (VI) is knitted adjacent to the third section (III) knitting direction (K).

14. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the used knitting machine is a V-bed knitting machine.

15. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that different yarns are used for knitting different parts of the collar (1).