WO2017090416A1 - Produit cosmétique à base d'huile - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique à base d'huile Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017090416A1
WO2017090416A1 PCT/JP2016/082992 JP2016082992W WO2017090416A1 WO 2017090416 A1 WO2017090416 A1 WO 2017090416A1 JP 2016082992 W JP2016082992 W JP 2016082992W WO 2017090416 A1 WO2017090416 A1 WO 2017090416A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
component
mass
oily cosmetic
group
cosmetic according
Prior art date
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PCT/JP2016/082992
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
田村 英子
正洋 藤岡
南部 博美
紘和 圖司
萌子 朝野
Original Assignee
花王株式会社
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Application filed by 花王株式会社 filed Critical 花王株式会社
Priority to KR1020187013475A priority Critical patent/KR20180083329A/ko
Priority to CN201680069165.1A priority patent/CN108289826B/zh
Publication of WO2017090416A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017090416A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/897Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing halogen, e.g. fluorosilicones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an oily cosmetic.
  • Patent Document 1 describes that an oily cosmetic material obtained by combining a specific acylated cellulose derivative, an ester oil, and a hydrocarbon oil in a specific ratio maintains a smooth feel.
  • Patent Document 2 describes that an oily cosmetic material containing a specific acylated cellulose derivative, a silicone oil agent, and an ester oil is excellent in transparency and gloss, and maintains a smooth feel. Describes that an oily cosmetic containing a specific acylated cellulose derivative and a silicone having a nonionic hydrophilic group is excellent in sustainability of a beautiful cosmetic finish and maintains a smooth feel.
  • Patent Document 1 JP 2010-1000061 A
  • Patent Document 2 JP 2011-79746 A
  • Patent Document 3 JP 2011-173818 A
  • the present invention includes the following components (A), (B) and (C):
  • B) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 5-80% by mass
  • the bulk shear relates to an oily cosmetic having a viscosity of 1500 Pa ⁇ s or less.
  • the oily cosmetic containing the acylated cellulose derivative is excellent in smooth feel, it has problems in terms of color transfer and color retention.
  • the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention does not feel sticky or tight at the time of application, has smooth lips and skin, etc., and suppresses secondary adhesion to a cup or the like immediately after application and after a long period of time. It is also resistant to wetting. Moreover, when removing cosmetics from lips or skin, it can be removed cleanly.
  • the cellulose derivative of the component (A) used in the present invention is not limited as long as it has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, but the raw material cellulose derivative includes cellulose and short chain acyls such as acetylcellulose and acetylbutylcellulose.
  • Preferred are short-chain alkyl etherified celluloses such as functionalized cellulose, methylcellulose, and ethylcellulose, cellulose modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, glyceryl ether groups, and (mono) alkyl glyceryl ether groups.
  • hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, glyceryl cellulose, methyl glyceryl cellulose and the like can be mentioned. Furthermore, what has the following structural units as a cellulose derivative of the manufacturing raw material of the cellulose derivative of a component (A) is preferable.
  • R ′ represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms
  • n represents a number with an average added mole number of R′O per glucose unit of 0.1 to 10.
  • R ′ is preferably a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group.
  • n is preferably a number such that the average added mole number of R′O per glucose unit is 0.3 to 5, more preferably 0.5 to 4.5, and a number 1 to 4. Further preferred.
  • the raw material cellulose derivative include hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose is more preferred.
  • the mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the raw material cellulose derivative is preferably 10,000 to 4,000,000, more preferably 100,000 to 3,000,000, and still more preferably 300,000 to 200, from the viewpoint of solubility in oil and feel. It is ten thousand.
  • Examples of branched alkyl groups include methylpentyl, methylhexyl, methylheptyl, methyloctyl, methylnonyl, methylundecyl, methylheptadecyl, ethylhexadecyl, methyloctadecyl, propyl Pentadecyl group, 2-hexyldecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-decyltetradecyl group, 2-dodecylhexadecyl group, 2-tetradecyloctadecyl group, 2-hexadecylicosyl group Etc.
  • linear alkenyl groups include dodecenyl group, tridecenyl group, tetradecenyl group, pentadecenyl group, hexadecenyl group, heptadecenyl group, octadecenyl group, nonadecenyl group, icosenyl group, heicosenyl group, dococenyl group, tricocenyl group, tetracocenyl group, Examples include a pentacocenyl group, a hexacocenyl group, a heptacocenyl group, and an octacocenyl group.
  • Examples of branched alkenyl groups include isotridecenyl, isooctadecenyl, isotriacontenyl, 2-butyloctenyl, 2-hexyldecenyl, 2-octyldecenyl, 2-decyltetra Examples include a decenyl group and a 2-dodecylhexadecenyl group.
  • R is preferably a linear alkyl group from the viewpoint of imparting smoothness during the application of the oily cosmetic and forming a uniform film on the lips and skin.
  • the number of carbon atoms is preferably 9 to 21, more preferably 11 to 17, and even more preferably 15.
  • Hydroxyl group —O—M—R substitution rate is 45 mol% or more from the standpoint of enhancing the solubility in oil, not feeling sticky or sticking at the time of application, and suppressing secondary adhesion to a cup or the like. Yes, 48 mol% or more is preferable, 51 mol% or more is more preferable, and 95 mol% or less is preferable, 94 mol% or less is preferable, 92 mol% or less is more preferable, and 66 mol% or less is still more preferable from the viewpoint of improving dripping resistance and water resistance. .
  • the group —O—M—R substitution rate of the hydroxyl group is 45 to 95 mol%, preferably 48 to 94 mol%, more preferably 51 to 92 mol%, and still more preferably 51 to 66 mol%. It is preferable that the hydroxyl group remains appropriately from the viewpoint of feeling of use and pigment dispersibility, preferably 5 mol% or more, more preferably 6 mol% or more, further preferably 8 mol% or more, and further preferably 34 mol% or more. 55 mol% or less is preferable, 52 mol% or less is more preferable, and 49 mol% or less is more preferable.
  • the residual ratio of hydroxyl groups is preferably 5 to 55 mol%, more preferably 6 to 52 mol%, further preferably 8 to 49 mol%, and still more preferably 34 to 49 mol%.
  • the mass average molecular weight of the component (A) cellulose derivative is preferably 100,000 or more, more preferably 200,000 or more, still more preferably 300,000 or more, from the viewpoint that the solubility in the oil component and the smooth feel are maintained. 10,000 or more are more preferable, 5 million or less are preferable, 4 million or less are more preferable, 3 million or less are more preferable, and 2 million or less are still more preferable.
  • the mass average molecular weight (Mw) is determined by gel permeation chromatography (using a calibration curve and a refractive index detector defined with chloroform solvent and linear polystyrene as a standard).
  • the cellulose derivative of component (A) is obtained by reacting a raw material cellulose derivative with an acid halide having a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 3 to 40 carbon atoms, to give 45 to 95 mol of all hydroxyl groups of the raw material cellulose derivative. Produced by replacing%.
  • a compound in which M is CH 2 can be produced by reacting a cellulose derivative with a corresponding sulfonic acid ester such as alkyl halide or alkyl mesylate in the presence of a base.
  • the main chain comprising a cellulose skeleton can also be obtained by transesterification (acidolysis) of acetylcellulose. According to this method, a cellulose ester derivative having a very low residual amount of hydroxyl groups can be obtained.
  • hydroxyethyl cellulose lauric acid ester hydroxyethyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose palmitic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose stearic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose behenic acid ester; hydroxypropyl cellulose lauric acid ester, hydroxypropyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxy Propylcellulose palmitate, hydroxypropylcellulose stearate, hydroxypropylcellulose behenate; hydroxyethylmethylcellulose laurate, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose myristate, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose palmitate, hydroxyethyl Methyl cellulose stearate, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose behenate; hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose laurate, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose myristic ester, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose palmitate, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose steoate,
  • hydroxypropylcellulose laurate hydroxypropylcellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxypropylcellulose palmitic acid ester, hydroxypropyl are used to form a uniform film on the lips and skin and suppress secondary adhesion to the cup.
  • Cellulose stearic acid ester and hydroxypropyl cellulose behenic acid ester are preferable, and hydroxypropyl cellulose palmitic acid ester is more preferable.
  • the cellulose derivative of component (A) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and the content forms a uniform film on the lips and skin, etc., and suppresses secondary adhesion to the cup, etc.
  • the total composition is 1% by mass or more, preferably 1.5% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, further preferably 3% by mass or more, 50% by mass or less, and preferably 30% by mass or less, 20 mass% or less is more preferable, 15 mass% or less is more preferable, and 10 mass% or less is further more preferable.
  • the content of the component (A) is 1 to 50% by mass in the total composition, preferably 1.5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 2 to 20% by mass, and further preferably 2 to 15% by mass. More preferably, it is 3 to 10% by mass.
  • Component (B) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Volatile has a flash point of 35-87 ° C.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil of component (B) is excellent in compatibility with component (A), and even after the volatile hydrocarbon oil has volatilized, it does not feel sticky or stiff.
  • paraffinic hydrocarbon oils such as n-decane, n-undecane, and n-dodecane
  • isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oils such as isodecane, isododecane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene
  • cyclic paraffin hydrocarbon oils such as cyclodecane and cyclododecane. It is done.
  • hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferable, hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 16 carbon atoms are more preferable, and hydrocarbon oils having 12 carbon atoms are more preferable.
  • isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oils are preferable, isododecane and hydrogenated polyisobutene having 12 carbon atoms are more preferable, and isododecane is more preferable.
  • Examples of commercially available products include Marcazole R (manufactured by Maruzen Petrochemical Co., Ltd .: flash point 48 ° C.), Pearl Ream 3 (manufactured by NOF Corporation: flash point 61 ° C.), and the like.
  • Component (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is excellent in compatibility with components (A) and (C), and after application to lips and skin, component (B) Even after volatilization, it is not sticky or sticky, forms a uniform film on the lips, etc., and suppresses secondary adhesion to the cup, etc. 35% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 45% by mass or more, still more preferably 46% by mass or more, 80% by mass or less, preferably 75% by mass or less, and 70% by mass. The following is more preferable, and 66% by mass or less is more preferable.
  • the content of component (B) is from 5 to 80% by mass in the total composition, preferably from 35 to 75% by mass, more preferably from 40 to 75% by mass, still more preferably from 45 to 70% by mass, and from 46 to 66 mass% is still more preferable.
  • the ester oil of component (C) used in the present invention is liquid at 25 ° C.
  • the liquid state at 25 ° C. has fluidity, and includes pastes.
  • Such ester oils are not limited as long as they are used in ordinary cosmetics.
  • Examples thereof include diglyceryl acid, glyceryl monoisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, tocopherol acetate, and diglyceryl monoisostearate.
  • ester oil having a branched chain is excellent in that the component (A) is excellent in compatibility and is not sticky or sticky even after the component (B) is volatilized after being applied to the lips or skin.
  • isotridecyl isononanoate diisostearyl malate, isostearyl myristate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, diglyceryl monoisostearate
  • isotridecyl isononanoate and diisostearyl malate are more preferable.
  • the component (C) ester oil can be used singly or in combination of two or more.
  • the content is excellent in compatibility with the component (A), and the component (B) is volatilized after being applied to the lips or skin. Even after the coating, it is not sticky or sticky, forms a uniform film on the lips, etc., and suppresses secondary adhesion to the cup.
  • % By mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 13% by mass or more, 50% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 35% by mass or less, and even more preferably 33% by mass or less. preferable.
  • the content of the component (C) is 5 to 50% by mass, preferably 7 to 40% by mass, more preferably 10 to 35% by mass, and further preferably 13 to 33% by mass in the total composition.
  • the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) with respect to the component (C) does not feel stiff or tight at the time of application, and the lips and skin are smooth, immediately after application and for a long time. Even after the passage, secondary adhesion to the cup is suppressed, it is strong against water wetting, and it can be removed cleanly when lipstick is removed from the lips.
  • the above is preferable, 1.4 or more is more preferable, 9 or less, 7 or less is preferable, and 5 or less is more preferable.
  • the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is 0.7 to 9, preferably 1.0 to 7, and more preferably 1.4 to 5.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) with respect to the component (C) does not feel stiffness or tension at the time of application, and the lips and skin are smooth, immediately after application and for a long time. Even after the lapse of time, secondary adhesion to the cup and the like is suppressed, and it is resistant to water so that it can be removed cleanly when the cosmetic is removed from the lips and skin.
  • 0.12 or more is more preferable
  • 0.14 or more is more preferable
  • 1.25 or less is preferable
  • 1.0 or less is more preferable
  • 0.65 or less is more preferable.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) to the component (C) is preferably 0.10 to 1.25, more preferably 0.12 to 1.0, and 0.14 to 0.00. 65 is more preferable.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (D) an organosilicone resin, and can evenly adhere the cosmetic to the lips, skin, etc., improve adhesion, and improve water resistance. Can do.
  • Any organic silicone resin of component (D) can be used as long as it is usually used in cosmetics.
  • (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, (D-2) fluorine-modified silicone examples thereof include resins.
  • the component (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and is a compound having a crosslinked structure having a siloxane structure as a main skeleton, [ Those represented by (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ] X [SiO 2 ] Y (X is 1 to 3, Y is 0.5 to 8) are preferred.
  • Component (D-1), trimethylsiloxysilicic acid preferably has a mass average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, more preferably 2000 to 9000, and still more preferably 3000 to 6000, from the viewpoint of feeling of use and makeup. .
  • the property may be any of liquid, gum, paste, solid, etc.
  • a solid product is preferred.
  • the solvent to be diluted or dispersed is preferably one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and isododecane, and volatile dimethylpolysiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane are preferred. More preferred. Volatile has a flash point of 35 to 87 ° C.
  • components (D-1) are those previously dissolved in a solvent, such as KF-7312J (solid content 50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution), KF-9021 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) X21-5249 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution) (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), SS4267 (35% dimethylpolysiloxane solution), SR1000 (manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan GK) BY11-018 (30% cyclopentasiloxane solution) (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Silicone), BELSIL TMS 803 (manufactured by Wacker Chemie AG), and the like can be used.
  • KF-7312J solid content 50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution
  • KF-9021 50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution
  • X21-5249 50%
  • the component (D-2) fluorine-modified silicone resin is represented by the general formula (1) R 1 a SiO (4-a) / 2 (1) (Wherein R 1 represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group, or a general formula —R 2 —Rf (R 2 represents a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; Rf represents carbon A perfluoroalkyl group of the formula 1 to 8, which is arbitrarily selected from a hydroxyl group and a functional group essentially having the general formula —R 2 —Rf, and a is an average number of 1.0 ⁇ a ⁇ 1. 8) What has the structure represented by these is preferable.
  • the fluorine-modified silicone resin has silanol groups in the molecule from the viewpoint of adhesion to skin and powder, and the ratio of OH groups in the silanol groups is 0.1 to 5% by mass with respect to the resin mass. Of these, 0.5 to 5% by mass is more preferable.
  • Component (D-2) is preferably a solid at 25 ° C., and from the viewpoint of compoundability, it is a solution or dispersion diluted with a solvent, or a solution or dispersion obtained by mixing in advance. It is also possible to use it in a state.
  • the solvent to be diluted or dispersed cyclic silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane and the like are preferable.
  • the cyclic silicone is preferably used by dissolving in one or more selected from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5).
  • fluorine-modified silicone resins include INCI names “Trifluoropropyldimethyl / Trimethylsiloxysilicate”, XS66-B8226, XS66-C1191, XS66-B8636 (momentive performance materials). Commercially available products such as those manufactured by the company) can be used.
  • the organic silicone resin of component (D) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is such that the cosmetic material is uniformly attached to the lips, skin, etc., and the adhesion is improved, Moreover, from the point which is excellent in water resistance, 0.01 mass% or more is preferable in the whole composition, 0.2 mass% or more is more preferable, 0.5 mass% or more is further more preferable, 1 mass% or more is more preferable. 25 mass% or less is preferable, 20 mass% or less is more preferable, 15 mass% or less is more preferable, and 13 mass% or less is more preferable. Further, the content of the component (D) is preferably 0.01 to 25% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 20% by mass, further preferably 0.5 to 15% by mass in the total composition. A mass% is even more preferable.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) is suppressed from secondary adhesion to the cup or the like immediately after application and after a long time has elapsed, so Strong, more preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.2 or more, further preferably 0.3 or more, more preferably 0.5 or more from the viewpoint that it can be removed cleanly even when the cosmetic is removed from the lips or skin.
  • the above is more preferable, 40 or less is preferable, 20 or less is more preferable, 12 or less is more preferable, and 10 or less is more preferable.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) is preferably 0.05 to 40, more preferably 0.2 to 20, still more preferably 0.3 to 12, 5 to 10 is even more preferable.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention can contain a solid wax at 25 ° C.
  • Solid at 25 ° C. means a solid property at 25 ° C. and a melting point of 61 ° C. or higher.
  • the solid wax at 25 ° C. is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, mineral wax such as ozokerite and ceresin; petroleum wax such as paraffin and microcrystalline wax; Fischer-Tropsch wax , Synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyethylene wax; plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, tree wax, sunflower wax; animal waxes such as beeswax and whale wax; synthetic waxes such as silicone wax and synthetic beeswax Is mentioned.
  • a solid wax at 25 ° C. has a melting point of 65 ° C. or higher and 140 ° C. or lower, preferably 70 ° C. or higher and 90 ° C., from the viewpoint of imparting moderate hardness to oily cosmetics, suppressing oil seepage and moistening. The following is more preferable. Moreover, it is preferable not to include a wax having a melting point exceeding 90 ° C. from the viewpoint of imparting a smooth usability.
  • the solid wax at 25 ° C. has a penetration of 1 or more and 150 or less at 25 ° C. from the viewpoint of imparting appropriate hardness to oily cosmetics, suppressing oil seepage and moistening. Of these, 15 or more and 110 or less are more preferable.
  • the penetration of the wax sample kept at 25 ⁇ 0.1 ° C. was adjusted to a specified needle (needle mass 2.5 ⁇ 0.02 g, needle holder mass 47.5 ⁇ 0.02 g, The weight of the weight 50 ⁇ 0.05 g) measures the length of needle penetration in 5 seconds, and the penetration depth is a value obtained by multiplying the needle penetration distance (mm) by 10; JIS K-2235 It is a value measured according to 5.4 (1991).
  • solid waxes having a penetration of 1 to 150 at 25 ° C. examples include mineral waxes, petroleum waxes, and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • microcrystalline wax and paraffin wax having a penetration of 15 or more and 110 or less are preferable, and the penetration is 15 or more from the viewpoint of suppressing dullness of the appearance color and high durability of the coating film and high performance of moisture.
  • 110 or less microcrystalline wax is more preferable.
  • the penetration degree in 25 degreeC is 25 or more and 80 or less microcrystalline wax.
  • these waxes commercially available products can be used.
  • microcrystalline wax For example, as microcrystalline wax, Multiwax W-445, W-835 (manufactured by SONNEBORN), Paracera M (manufactured by Paramelt), Hi-Mic-1045 And 1070, 2045 (manufactured by Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd.), refined microcrystalline wax (manufactured by Nikko Jamaica Co., Ltd.), 155 ° microwax (manufactured by Nippon Oil Co., Ltd.) and the like.
  • the microcrystalline wax having a penetration of 15 or more is preferably contained in a solid wax at 25 ° C. in an amount of 50% by mass or more, and 70% by mass or more from the viewpoint of providing a smooth feeling of use and gloss when applied. More preferably.
  • the wax that is solid at 25 ° C. can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is less than 5% by mass in the total composition from the viewpoint of suppressing cosmetic distortion on the lips. It is preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, and still more preferably 0.5% by mass or less.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention can contain a powder.
  • a powder is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and extender pigments, colored pigments, glitter pigments and the like can be used.
  • extender pigments include silicic acid, anhydrous silicic acid, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, glass flake, synthetic phlogopite, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide.
  • inorganic pigments such as aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, and magnesium carbonate, and composite powders thereof.
  • the color pigment examples include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, bitumen, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide; metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate;
  • inorganic pigments such as carbon black; Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228 No., Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 404, etc. Synthetic organic pigments; natural organic pigments such as ⁇ -carotene, caramel, and paprika pigments.
  • the surface of a plate powder such as mica, synthetic phlogopite, glass, silica, alumina, etc. is coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, bitumen, chromium oxide, tin oxide, chromium hydroxide, gold, Film raw materials such as those coated with colorants such as silver, carmine, organic pigments, etc., and polyethylene terephthalate / polymethylmethacrylate laminate powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum deposition powder, polyethylene terephthalate / gold deposition laminate powder, etc. The cut one can be used. As these powders, those subjected to various surface treatments such as water repellency treatment, water repellency / oil repellency treatment, and the like can also be used.
  • One or more kinds of powders can be used, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and preferably 20% by mass or less in the total composition. 10 mass% or less is more preferable.
  • the content of the powder is preferably 0.01 to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass in the total composition.
  • oily cosmetics of the present invention include, in addition to the above components, components used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, oily components other than components (B) and (C), surfactants, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, Polymer components other than components (A) and (D), ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, dyes, fragrances, coloring materials, antifouling agents, moisturizing agents, water and the like can be contained.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method, and the dosage form may be any of solid, semi-solid, gel, liquid and the like.
  • the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention has a bulk bulk shear viscosity of 1500 Pa ⁇ s or less and 900 Pa ⁇ s or less at a shear rate of 0.1 s ⁇ 1 at 25 ° C. from the viewpoint of ease of extension at the time of application. It is preferably 500 Pa ⁇ s or less, more preferably 250 Pa ⁇ s or less, even more preferably 200 Pa ⁇ s or less, and even more preferably 10 Pa ⁇ s or more, and 20 Pa ⁇ s or less. It is more preferably s or more, and further preferably 30 Pa ⁇ s or more. Further, when the shear rate at 25 ° C.
  • the shear viscosity of the whole bulk is preferably 10 to 900 Pa ⁇ s, more preferably 20 to 500 Pa ⁇ s, and more preferably 20 to 250 Pa ⁇ s. More preferably, it is 30 to 200 Pa ⁇ s.
  • Shear viscosity is measured with a rheometer.
  • the jig is ⁇ 25mm.
  • the shear viscosity when the shear rate is 0.1 s ⁇ 1 is read and measured.
  • the adjusted bulk is measured with a rheometer (MCR301; manufactured by Anton Paar).
  • the jig is ⁇ 25mm.
  • the shear viscosity when the shear rate is 0.1 s ⁇ 1 is read and measured.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic having an oil agent as a continuous phase, and is used for the skin, lips, eyelashes, nails and hair, and preferably used for the lips.
  • Lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner; makeup cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, teak color, foundation, concealer; cream, milky lotion, essence, massage agent, deodorant, sunscreen, hair growth It can be an agent, hair color, hair wax, hair foam, and the like. Especially, it is suitable as lip cosmetics selected from lipstick, lip gloss, and lip liner.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably used for application sites such as skin, lips, eyelashes, nails and hair using a cosmetic application tool.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably in the form of being stored in a container to be taken out with a cosmetic application tool, and the container to be taken out is more preferably a bottle container, a jar container, or a tube container. From the viewpoint of suppression, a bottle container and a tube container are more preferable.
  • the cosmetic applicator for taking out the oily cosmetic contained in the container has an application surface for applying the cosmetic, and has a support shaft that connects the application part to the tip.
  • Specific examples include a chip, a sponge, a puff, and a brush.
  • a cosmetic application tool having an application surface for applying cosmetics, and having an application part made of a cone-shaped, flat body, and a support shaft having the application part connected to the tip, From the initial use, it is preferable from the viewpoint of easy application to the applicator and ease of application to the lips and skin.
  • the oily cosmetic of the present invention is in a form housed in a cosmetic container having a cosmetic applicator for taking out, so that it can be easily taken into the applicator from the initial use.
  • a dipping container in which the cosmetic applicator is applied to the cosmetic is more preferable because there is little residual cosmetic remaining in the container after use.
  • the raw material cellulose derivative is preferably the following structural unit:
  • R ′ represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and n represents a number with an average added mole number of R′O per glucose unit of 0.1 to 10.
  • the oily cosmetic according to ⁇ 1> wherein hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose are more preferable, and hydroxypropyl cellulose is further preferable.
  • R in the group —OMR which is a substituent of the hydroxyl group of the raw material cellulose derivative, is preferably a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 9 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • the hydroxyl group —OMR substitution rate is preferably 48 mol% or more, more preferably 51 mol% or more, preferably 94 mol% or less, more preferably 92 mol% or less.
  • the oily cosmetic according to any one of ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 3> preferably 66 mol% or less.
  • the hydroxyl group residual ratio is preferably 5 mol% or more, more preferably 6 mol% or more, further preferably 8 mol% or more, still more preferably 34 mol% or more, and 55 mol% or less.
  • the oily cosmetic according to any one of the above items ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 4> preferably 52 mol% or less, more preferably 49 mol% or less.
  • the mass average molecular weight of the cellulose derivative of component (A) is preferably 100,000 or more, more preferably 200,000 or more, further preferably 300,000 or more, still more preferably 500,000 or more, and 5,000,000.
  • Component (A) is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose lauric acid ester, hydroxypropylcellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxypropylcellulose palmitic acid ester, hydroxypropylcellulose stearic acid ester, hydroxypropylcellulose behenic acid ester,
  • the content of ⁇ 8> component (A) is preferably 1.5% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 2% by mass or more, further preferably 3% by mass or more, and 30% by mass or less.
  • the oily cosmetic according to any one of ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 7> preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, and still more preferably 10% by mass or less.
  • the component (B) is preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and still more preferably a hydrocarbon oil having 12 carbon atoms.
  • Component (B) is preferably an isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oil, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene having 12 carbon atoms is more preferable, and isododecane is more preferably any one of the above items ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 10>
  • the content of ⁇ 12> component (B) is preferably 35% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 40% by mass or more, further preferably 45% by mass or more, and further more preferably 46% by mass or more.
  • the ester oil of component (C) is preferably an ester oil having a branched chain, and is isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl myristate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, Any one of the above items ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 12>, wherein glyceryl monoisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, and diglyceryl monoisostearate are more preferable, and isotridecyl isononanoate and diisostearyl malate are more preferable.
  • the content of ⁇ 14> component (C) is preferably 7% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 10% by mass or more, further preferably 13% by mass or more, and preferably 40% by mass or less,
  • the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is preferably 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.4 or more, preferably 7 or less, and 5 or less.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (C) of the component (A) to the component (C) is preferably 0.10 or more, more preferably 0.12 or more, and further preferably 0.14 or more.
  • Component (D) is preferably (D-1) trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, a compound having a crosslinked structure having a siloxane structure as a main skeleton, and [[CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ]
  • the trimethylsiloxysilicic acid preferably has a mass average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, more preferably 2000 to 9000, and even more preferably 3000 to 6000.
  • Component (D) is preferably (D-2) a fluorine-modified silicone resin having the general formula (1) R 1 a SiO (4-a) / 2 (1)
  • R 1 represents a hydrocarbon group, a phenyl group, a hydroxyl group or the general formula -R 2 -Rf
  • R 2 is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms of 1 to 8 carbon atoms
  • Rf is carbon
  • a perfluoroalkyl group of the formula 1 to 8 which is arbitrarily selected from a hydroxyl group and a functional group essentially having the general formula —R 2 —Rf
  • a is an average number of 1.0 ⁇ a ⁇ 1.
  • the oily cosmetic according to ⁇ 17> more preferably having a structure represented by the formula: ⁇ 21> (D-2)
  • the fluorine-modified silicone resin preferably has a silanol group in the molecule, and the ratio of the OH group in the silanol group is 0.1 to 5% by mass with respect to the resin mass.
  • the oily cosmetic according to ⁇ 20> more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass.
  • the content of ⁇ 22> component (D) is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.2% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, in the total composition. Any of the above ⁇ 17> to ⁇ 21>, more preferably not less than 25% by weight, more preferably not more than 25% by weight, more preferably not more than 20% by weight, still more preferably not more than 15% by weight, and still more preferably not more than 13% by weight.
  • the mass ratio (A) / (D) of the component (A) to the component (D) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.2 or more, and further preferably 0.3 or more.
  • the oily cosmetic according to 1. ⁇ 25> A wax that is solid at 25 ° C., preferably the penetration at 25 ° C. is 1 or more and 150 or less, more preferably 15 or more and 110 or less, and the penetration is 1 or more and 150 or less.
  • the content of the wax solid at 25 ° C. is preferably less than 5% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 3% by mass or less, still more preferably 1% by mass or less, and 0.5% by mass.
  • ⁇ 27> The oily cosmetic according to any one of ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 26>, further comprising powder, wherein the powder is preferably an extender pigment, a color pigment, or a bright pigment.
  • the content of ⁇ 28> powder is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less in the total composition.
  • the bulk bulk shear viscosity is preferably 900 Pa ⁇ s or less, more preferably 500 Pa ⁇ s or less, and 250 Pa ⁇ s or less. More preferably, it is 200 Pa ⁇ s or less, more preferably 10 Pa ⁇ s or more, more preferably 20 Pa ⁇ s or more, and further preferably 30 Pa ⁇ s or more.
  • ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 28> Any one of the oily cosmetics.
  • ⁇ 31> Use of the oily cosmetic composition according to any one of ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 30> for application to a lip.
  • ⁇ 32> Use of the oily cosmetic according to any one of ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 30> for the production of an oily cosmetic.
  • ⁇ 33> Use of the oily cosmetic composition according to any one of the above items ⁇ 1> to ⁇ 30> for application to a lip using a cosmetic application tool.
  • the average molecular weight (Mw) of the polymer was measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using Hitachi L-6000 type high performance liquid chromatography.
  • the eluent flow path pump was Hitachi L-6000
  • the detector was a Shodex RI SE-61 differential refractive index detector
  • the column was a GMHHR-H double connected.
  • the sample was adjusted to a concentration of 0.5 g / 100 mL with an eluent, and 20 ⁇ L was used.
  • a chloroform solution of 1 mmol / L N, N-dimethyldodecylamine (Farmin DM20, manufactured by Kao Corporation) was used as the eluent.
  • the column temperature was 40 ° C. and the flow rate was 1.0 mL / min.
  • Examples 1 to 15 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Manufacture lipsticks with the composition shown in Table 1 and measure the bulk shear viscosity, and there is no wrinkle immediately after application, no tension immediately after application, smoothness when the lips are rubbed immediately after application, Secondary adhesion to tile (color difference ⁇ E), secondary adhesion to tile 4 hours after application (color difference ⁇ E), difficulty in color transfer immediately after application, difficulty in color transfer after application 4 hours, application After 4 hours, the lipstick crease on the lips, water resistance immediately after application, and ease of lipstick removal were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.
  • Examples 16-17 Lipsticks having the compositions shown in Tables 2 and 3 were produced in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 15, and bulk shear viscosity was measured. All of the lipsticks obtained did not feel sticky or sticky immediately after application, and were smooth when the lips were rubbed immediately after application, and secondary adhesion to the tile immediately after application and 4 hours after application was suppressed. In addition, color transfer is difficult after 4 hours of application, lipstick on the lips is not easily blurred after 4 hours of application, water resistance immediately after application is excellent, and lipstick can be removed cleanly.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un produit cosmétique à base d'huile contenant les composants suivants (A), (B) et (C) : (A) 1 à 50 % en masse d'un dérivé de cellulose comportant un squelette de cellulose pour une chaîne principale, dans lequel 45 à 95 % en moles de l'ensemble des groupes hydroxyle sont substitués par un groupe -O-M-R (dans lequel M représente CH2 ou un groupe carbonyle C=O, R représente un groupe alkyle ou un groupe alcényle à chaîne linéaire ou à chaîne ramifiée ayant 3 à 40 carbones, un groupe alkyle à chaîne ramifiée, ou un groupe alcényle) (B) 5 à 80 % en masse d'une huile hydrocarbure volatile; et (C) 5 à 50 % en masse d'une huile d'ester qui est liquide à 25 °C, dans lequel un rapport massique (B)/(C) du composant (B) au composant (C) est de 0,7 à 9, et lorsqu'un taux de cisaillement à 25 °C est de 0,1 s-1, une viscosité de cisaillement de la masse totale est de 1500 Pa·s ou moins.
PCT/JP2016/082992 2015-11-27 2016-11-07 Produit cosmétique à base d'huile WO2017090416A1 (fr)

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JP2019199411A (ja) * 2018-05-15 2019-11-21 花王株式会社 油性化粧料

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JPH092920A (ja) * 1995-06-22 1997-01-07 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料及び表面処理剤
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JP2006111543A (ja) * 2004-10-13 2006-04-27 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc 油性化粧料
JP2010100612A (ja) * 2008-09-25 2010-05-06 Kao Corp 油性化粧料
JP2015101560A (ja) * 2013-11-25 2015-06-04 花王株式会社 油性化粧料
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JP2015224220A (ja) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-14 花王株式会社 油性化粧料

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JP2011079746A (ja) 2009-10-02 2011-04-21 Kao Corp 油性化粧料
JP5599199B2 (ja) 2010-02-24 2014-10-01 花王株式会社 油性化粧料

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JPH08143423A (ja) * 1994-11-15 1996-06-04 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料及び表面処理剤
JPH092920A (ja) * 1995-06-22 1997-01-07 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料及び表面処理剤
JP2004300093A (ja) * 2003-03-31 2004-10-28 Kose Corp 口紅オーバーコート
JP2006111543A (ja) * 2004-10-13 2006-04-27 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc 油性化粧料
JP2010100612A (ja) * 2008-09-25 2010-05-06 Kao Corp 油性化粧料
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JP2015224220A (ja) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-14 花王株式会社 油性化粧料

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JP2019199411A (ja) * 2018-05-15 2019-11-21 花王株式会社 油性化粧料
JP7201335B2 (ja) 2018-05-15 2023-01-10 花王株式会社 油性化粧料

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