WO2017071202A1 - Method for preparing highly elastic softening knitted fabric - Google Patents

Method for preparing highly elastic softening knitted fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017071202A1
WO2017071202A1 PCT/CN2016/083541 CN2016083541W WO2017071202A1 WO 2017071202 A1 WO2017071202 A1 WO 2017071202A1 CN 2016083541 W CN2016083541 W CN 2016083541W WO 2017071202 A1 WO2017071202 A1 WO 2017071202A1
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Prior art keywords
fiber
quantum energy
knitted fabric
elastic
preparing
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PCT/CN2016/083541
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王圣杰
刘松
陆海岸
任学宏
徐进萍
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江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司
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Publication of WO2017071202A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017071202A1/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a preparation method, in particular to a preparation method of a high elastic soft skin knitted fabric, and belongs to the technical field of functional textile fabrics in textiles.
  • the invention aims at the technical problems existing in the prior art, and provides a preparation method of a high-elastic soft-knitted knitted fabric, which adopts a plurality of fiber blending, can be long in the performance, fully embodies the excellent performance of various fibers. Give the textile product versatility.
  • the technical solution of the present invention is as follows, a method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knitted fabric, characterized in that the preparation method comprises the following steps: 1) raw material matching; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process ; 4) Dyeing and finishing.
  • the raw material matching in the step 1) is specifically as follows, the quantum energy polyester, the fiber elastic fiber, the modal fiber, and the fiber blending ratio are respectively: the quantum energy polyester accounts for 50%, the modal fiber 40%, elastic fiber accounted for 10% of this blending ratio can ensure that the quantum energy polyester in the fabric accounted for 50%, maximize the function of quantum energy fiber, improve the functionality of the knitted fabric.
  • the step 2) spinning process is specifically as follows: for the quantum energy polyester fiber 60 / Modal 20 / elastic fiber 20 14.8 tex knitting yarn, adopting quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber cotton The method of mixing the bags, and then the spinning process with the quantum energy polyester fiber and the modal fiber; for the quantum energy polyester fiber 40/Mudal 60 14.8 tex knitting yarn, the quantum energy polyester fiber and the wood are adopted.
  • the spinning process of each of the Dale fibers is in a strip.
  • the step 3) weaving process is specifically as follows: a knitting circular machine is selected - a falling cloth sampling test - a weighing cover sheet - a grey cloth transport stacking.
  • the step 4) dyeing and finishing is as follows, the blank unwinding-seam-predetermined type-sewing edge (forming a cylinder)-pre-dyeing-dyeing-washing-dehydration-softening finishing - Styling - pre-shrinking - drop-off packaging.
  • the specific process of the predetermined type in the step 4) is as follows, adding hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, refining agent, dispersant antifoaming agent, running for 5 min, rapidly heating to 80 ° C, holding for 30 min, cooling to 60 ° C , overflow rinse for 5 min, drain.
  • the specific process of dyeing in the step 4) is as follows: adding a leveling agent F-305 for cotton, adding 10 times of the dye quality after running for 10 minutes, running for 15 minutes, adding 1/2 dye for 20 minutes.
  • the specific process in the step 4) is as follows: dewatering, sectioning, flat pre-shrinking loose drying, tenter setting, falling cloth placement, inspection, finished product, wherein the flat pre-shrinking
  • the drying temperature of the loose drying is 110 ° C
  • the drying time is 2 min
  • the temperature of the tenter setting is 175 ° C
  • the rate is 25 m / min.
  • the quantum energy polyester fiber is a quantum energy polyester masterbatch which is mixed and fused by a quantum energy powder (1% to 2%) and a common polyester resin in a paste form, and is melt-extruded into a spherical or cylindrical shape, and then obtained by blending and spinning. Its functionality is produced by a quantum energy powder, which is a submicron ultrafine powder with a particle size of about 500 nm.
  • the ingredients are silica and aluminosilicate.
  • the powder has far infrared, anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial effects, so the quantum energy polyester fiber is a functional fiber having far infrared, ultraviolet and antibacterial properties.
  • the quantum energy polyester fiber has a low moisture regaining rate and poor cohesion, and the obtained fabric has poor moisture absorption and permeability, is easy to pilling, and has a serious electrostatic phenomenon.
  • Elastomeric fiber ZENTRA is a new type of polyester material independently developed by Korea Huiweis. ZENTRA fiber has the advantages of soft texture, strong stretching ability, strong durability, colorability and dyeability.
  • the fiber can be blended with cotton, polyester, viscose and other fibers to overcome the problems of dyeing, durability and weak chemical properties of spandex, and is widely used in high-grade elastic denim, casual fabrics and knitting.
  • Modal is a regenerated cellulose fiber produced by Austrian Lenzing Company, which is made from natural eucalyptus and processed by a special spinning process. The raw materials of this product are all natural materials, which can be naturally decomposed and are harmless to the human body and the environment. It is a green and environmentally friendly fiber. Modal fiber has a rich and soft hand, silky luster, good hygroscopicity, dyeability and bright color after dyeing. This high-elastic soft knit fabric developed with these three fiber blended yarns.
  • the knitted fabric is dyed with reactive dyes, and the reactive dyes in the dyeing process have good levelness and color fastness after dyeing.
  • Higher, antistatic softener is added to the pre-treatment and dyeing process to prevent the fabric from being hooked, creased and unevenly dyed throughout the process.
  • the fabric Since the fabric contains elastic fibers, the fabric is heat-set during the finishing process to adjust the fabric.
  • the shrinkage performance after finishing and meeting the customer's requirements for fabric width and weight stability 4)
  • the preparation method selects reasonable pretreatment method, dye and dyeing process to ensure the dyeing rate and reduce the strength Loss.
  • the soft finishing technology, shaping, pre-shrinking and other processes in the method ensure that the fabric is smooth and soft, and the size is stable. The whole method greatly reduces the cost and facilitates large-scale popularization and application;
  • the high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric prepared by the method has soft and smooth feel, good drape and moisture absorption, and has antibacterial, far-infrared and anti-ultraviolet functions. Sex. Compared with general fabrics, it has obvious advantages in terms of functionality, fashion, added value and economic benefits.
  • the preparation method of the high elastic soft knitted fabric comprises the following steps: 1) raw material matching; main indexes of the quantum energy polyester fiber: fiber linear density 1.44 dtex, length 38 mm, elongation at break: 21.2%, fracture Strength: 6.17cN/tex, crimp number 12, specific resistance 2.3, oil content 2.4; main indexes of elastic fiber: fineness 1.33dtex, length 40mm, moisture regain ratio 0.49%, specific resistance 2.78; wooddale fiber Main indicators: fineness 1.3dtex, length 39mm, strength: 5.13cN/cm, moisture regain: 11.25%; the blending ratio of the three yarns is: quantum energy polyester 60%, wooddale fiber 20%, elasticity Fibers account for 20% or quantum energy polyesters account for 40% and wooddale fibers account for 60%.
  • This blending ratio can ensure that the quantum energy polyester accounts for 50% of the fabric, maximizes the function of the quantum energy fiber, and improves the functionality of the knitted fabric; 2) the spinning process, in the spinning process, due to the elastic fiber ZENTRA is elastic, fluffy and has poor cohesion.
  • the knitting yarn of quantum energy polyester fiber 60/Mudal 20/elastic fiber 20 14.8 tex the method of mixing quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber cotton bag is adopted, and then with quantum A spinning process in which polyester fibers and modal fibers are each formed into a strip.
  • the polyester fiber In the carding process, the polyester fiber is easy to adhere to the upper and lower rolls, the fiber damage is large, the cotton knot is many, the cotton net is easy to fall and the transfer is difficult and easy to break, and the process principle of low speed, light weight and large gauge should be followed; And the gap between the cotton board, properly reduce the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate, the use of new metal card clothing, reduce fiber deposition, is conducive to fiber transfer, reducing the incidence of short piles and neps.
  • the Modal fiber has good uniformity and is relatively straightforward, and it is easy to open. Therefore, a short process should be adopted, which is mainly based on opening and loosening, reducing the hitting point, combing and playing, combing and playing less, and controlling the rate of falling cotton.
  • the carding process needs to reduce the speed of the licker and the cylinder and increase the gauge between the cover and the cylinder.
  • the quantum energy polyester/elastic fiber pre-strand, the quantum energy polyester pre-strand and the modal pre-adhesive are mixed on the head draw frame, and the four passes are used to ensure uniform mixing. Due to the large elasticity of the PTT fiber and the large drafting force in the rear zone, the drafting ratio of the main drafting zone should be appropriately reduced when the drafting ratio is selected, and the rear zone should be appropriately increased. The drafting ratio of the rear zone of the second and third passes should be appropriately reduced. The pressure of the large cradle and the tension of the front bead increase the level of the strip of the cooked strip.
  • the process principle of slow speed, heavy pressurization, large rear roller spacing and maximizing the total draw ratio is used. Maximize the total draw ratio as much as possible to reduce the total draw ratio of the spinning process, which is beneficial to the fine yarn Control of the fibers during the drawing process.
  • the spinning process adopts the principle of heavy pressurization, large rear zone drafting distance, and small rear zone drafting multiple, reducing the generation of details and strong weak rings.
  • the specific models of each device are described in parentheses, according to The actual situation can also be exchanged; the spinning process: Quantum Energy Polyester 60 / Modal 20 / Elastic Fiber 20 14.8tex knitting yarn spinning process is as follows:
  • the spinning process control process is as follows:
  • Carding cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 350r/min, licking speed 680r/min, cover speed 120mm/min, delivery speed 65m/min, quantitative 21.5 g/5m, number of neps: 2 / 1g, dry cv value: 4.5%, moisture regain: 0.4%.
  • Carding cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 330r/min, licker speed 650r/min, cover speed 110mm/min, delivery speed 60m/min, quantitative 21.5g/5m, number of neps: 3/1g, dry cv value: 4.8%, moisture regain: 0.5%.
  • Carding cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 360r/min, licking speed 645r/min, delivery speed 80m/min, doffer speed 25r/min, quantitative 25g/ 5m, number of neps: 3 / 1g, dry cv value: 6.81%, moisture regain: 10.2%.
  • the roving dry weight was 4.8 g/10 m
  • the twist was 3.0
  • the draw ratio in the back zone was 1.25 times
  • the total draw ratio was 8.28 times
  • the spindle speed was 850 r/min.
  • the yarn twist coefficient is designed to be 338.5, the steel collar PG1 4254, the wire ring F/O 6.0, 3.0 pressure bar spacer block, and the roller center distance is 18 ⁇ 22.
  • Carding cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 350r/min, licking speed 680r/min, cover speed 120mm/min, delivery speed 65m/min, quantitative 21.5 g/5m, number of neps: 2 / 1g, dry cv value: 4.5%, moisture regain: 0.4%.
  • Carding cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 360r/min, licking speed 645r/min, delivery speed 80m/min, doffer speed 25r/min, quantitative 25g/ 5m, number of neps: 3 / 1g, dry cv value: 6.81%, moisture regain: 10.2%.
  • the roving dry weight is 4.8g/10m
  • the twist is 3.17
  • the draw ratio in the back zone is 1.35 times
  • the total draw ratio is 8.28 times
  • the spindle speed is 850r/min.
  • the yarn twist coefficient is designed to be 350, the steel collar PG1 4254, the traveler F/O 6.0, 3.0 pressure bar spacer block, and the roller center distance is 18x22.
  • the weaving process is as follows: the knitting circular machine - the falling cloth sampling - the weighing cover single - the grey cloth transport stacking; the yarn used in the high elastic soft knitted fabric is the quantum energy polyester 60 / Modal 20 / Elastic fiber 20 14.8tex knitting yarn and quantum energy polyester 40 / Modal 60 14.8tex knitting yarn, two yarns one by one, plus 20D spandex, choose Italian Nordley knitting sheet
  • the large round machine is used for trial production and production. Knitting and weaving process, first select the appropriate knitting large round model according to the yarn count and the required width and weight. No., then the two yarns are threaded one by one, and each yarn is placed in an accurate position.
  • Dyeing and finishing, dyeing and finishing are as follows, blank unwinding - seam head - predetermined type - seam edge, forming cylinder - pre-dyeing treatment - dyeing - washing - dehydration - soft finishing - shaping - pre-shrinking - falling Machine packaging, the purpose of the predetermined shape is to eliminate the residual stress inside the elastic knitted fabric, to avoid creases, strips and other defects in the dyeing process, in addition, further control of the fabric Width and weight,
  • One bath of refining and bleaching the refining of elastic fabrics and the oxygen bathing are carried out in the same bath, which can shorten the process, and the purpose of refining is to remove the oil agent contained in the chemical fiber.
  • a refining agent for elastic fiber is used for refining treatment to remove the silicone oil used in the spinning of the elastic fiber, so as to avoid the occurrence of dyeing such as staining.
  • the purpose of oxygen bleaching is to remove impurities from the modal fibers and increase the whiteness of the fabric.
  • the specific process of the predetermined type in the step 4) is as follows, adding hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, refining agent, dispersing agent defoaming agent, running for 5 min, rapidly heating to 80 ° C, holding for 30 min, cooling to 60 ° C, overflowing for 5 min, draining;
  • the specific dyeing process is as follows: add cotton leveling agent F-305, add 1/2 mass of dye after 10 minutes of operation, run for 15min, add 1/2 dye for 20min, add yuanming powder, run for 30min, add soda ash, run for 25min -, warmed to 60 ° C, kept for 60 min, cooled to 30 ° C, acid washed and neutralized for 15 min.
  • the specific process of shaping is as follows: dewatering, sectioning, flat pre-shrinking loose drying, tenter setting, falling cloth placement, inspection, finished product, wherein the flat pre-shrink loose drying drying temperature is 110 ° C, drying The time was 2 min, the tenter setting temperature was 175 ° C, and the rate was 25 m / min.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

A method for preparing a highly elastic softening knitted fabric, comprising the following steps: 1) raw material selecting and blending; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process; and 4) dyeing and after-finishing. In the preparation method, a rational pre-treatment method, dyestuff and dyeing process are selected, so that the loss of strength is reduced while ensuring the dye-uptake. Due to processes such as a softening finishing technique, setting, and preshrinking in the method, the fabric is ensured to be bright, clean and soft, and stable in size. The entire method has greatly reduced cost, and is beneficial to large-scale popularization and application; the highly elastic softening knitted fabric product prepared by the method has soft and smooth hand feeling, good drapability and good hygroscopicity and breathability, and has anti-microbial, high infrared resistance and ultraviolet resistance functionalities. The highly elastic softening knitted fabric has obvious advantages in terms of functionality, fashion, added value, economic benefit and the like compared with common fabrics.

Description

一种高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法Preparation method of high elastic soft skin knitted fabric 技术领域Technical field
本发明涉及一种制备方法,特别是一种高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,属于纺织中功能性纺织面料技术领域。The invention relates to a preparation method, in particular to a preparation method of a high elastic soft skin knitted fabric, and belongs to the technical field of functional textile fabrics in textiles.
背景技术Background technique
随着人们保健意识的增强,对纺织品的要求也逐渐从柔软舒适、吸湿透气、防风防雨等扩展到抗紫外、远红外、抗菌除臭、防霉防蛀、抗静电等功能性方面,而各种新型面料的开发和应用以及新工艺新技术的发展,使得这些要求逐渐得以实现。近年来,功能性和保健型的面料服饰成为时尚的宠儿,多次成为面料服装展会的主角。国外对功能性针织面料的研究和开发集中体现在纤维和纱线的研究中,即开发具有抗菌、抗静电、远红外等功能的纤维和纱线。主要采用物理或者化学的方法,将具有功能性的物质图抗菌剂、陶瓷粉末等,引入到纤维表面或者纤维内部,使其具有抗菌、远红外、抗紫外等功能性。例如,通过在涤纶等合成纤维纺丝液中加入含氧化铬、氧化镁、氧化锆等特殊陶瓷粉末,特别是纳米级的微细陶瓷粉末,使纤维具有远红外功能。近年来,随着我国纺织产业的转型升级,国内也一直在研究功能性针织面料,纺织企业不断采用新技术、新原料、新工艺,与时俱进,多学科交叉,开发具有高附加值的科技面料来满足人们的需求,同时引导和促进纺织新产品的发展潮流。然而,由于功能性纤维的开发,成本高,投入大,难以实现大规模的产业化,而后整理方式实现的功能面料,相随着生活水平的不断提高,人们对服饰的要求更加注 重功能性、环保和保健。功能性纺织品的生产和销售也随之扩大。目前,全球功能性纺织品每年的市场销售额约为800亿美元,而国内功能性相对而言,成本低,也具有短暂的功能性,价格相对适中。目前国内市场上的功能性面料大多数通过后整理方式实现。With the increasing awareness of health care, the requirements for textiles have gradually expanded from soft and comfortable, moisture absorbing, wind and rain to anti-UV, far infrared, antibacterial deodorization, mildew proof, antistatic and other functional aspects. The development and application of various new fabrics and the development of new technologies and new technologies have made these requirements gradually realized. In recent years, functional and health-care fabric apparel has become the darling of fashion, and has repeatedly become the protagonist of the fabric clothing exhibition. The research and development of functional knitted fabrics in foreign countries is concentrated in the research of fibers and yarns, that is, the development of fibers and yarns with antibacterial, antistatic and far infrared functions. Mainly using physical or chemical methods, the functional substance map antibacterial agent, ceramic powder, etc. are introduced into the fiber surface or inside the fiber to make it have antibacterial, far infrared, anti-ultraviolet and other functionalities. For example, by adding a special ceramic powder containing chromium oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide or the like, particularly a nano-sized fine ceramic powder, to a synthetic fiber spinning solution such as polyester, the fiber has a far-infrared function. In recent years, with the transformation and upgrading of China's textile industry, domestically, we have been studying functional knitted fabrics. Textile companies continue to adopt new technologies, new raw materials and new processes, keep pace with the times, cross-disciplinary and develop high value-added Technology fabrics to meet people's needs, while guiding and promoting the development trend of new textile products. However, due to the development of functional fibers, high cost, large investment, and difficulty in achieving large-scale industrialization, and the functional fabrics realized by the finishing method, along with the continuous improvement of living standards, people’s requirements for clothing are more Heavy functionality, environmental protection and health care. The production and sales of functional textiles have also expanded. At present, global functional textiles have annual market sales of about $80 billion, while domestic functionality is relatively low in cost, short-lived, and relatively affordable. At present, most of the functional fabrics on the domestic market are realized through post-finishing.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明正是针对现有技术中存在的技术问题,提供一种高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,该方法采用多种纤维混纺,能够在性能上取长补短,充分体现各种纤维的优良性能,赋予该纺织产品多功能性。The invention aims at the technical problems existing in the prior art, and provides a preparation method of a high-elastic soft-knitted knitted fabric, which adopts a plurality of fiber blending, can be long in the performance, fully embodies the excellent performance of various fibers. Give the textile product versatility.
为了实现上述目的,本发明的技术方案如下,高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述制备方法包括以下步骤:1)原料选配;2)纺纱工艺;3)织造工艺;4)染色及后整理。In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution of the present invention is as follows, a method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knitted fabric, characterized in that the preparation method comprises the following steps: 1) raw material matching; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process ; 4) Dyeing and finishing.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤1)中原料选配具体如下,量子能涤纶、纤维弹性纤维、木代尔纤维,纤维混纺比分别为:量子能涤纶占50%,木代尔纤维占40%,弹性纤维占10%这种混纺比例可以保证量子能涤纶在面料中占50%,最大限度的发挥量子能纤维的功能,提高该款针织面料的功能性。As an improvement of the present invention, the raw material matching in the step 1) is specifically as follows, the quantum energy polyester, the fiber elastic fiber, the modal fiber, and the fiber blending ratio are respectively: the quantum energy polyester accounts for 50%, the modal fiber 40%, elastic fiber accounted for 10% of this blending ratio can ensure that the quantum energy polyester in the fabric accounted for 50%, maximize the function of quantum energy fiber, improve the functionality of the knitted fabric.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤2)纺纱工艺具体如下:对于量子能涤纶纤维60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和弹性纤维棉包混合的方法,然后再与量子能涤纶纤维、木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺;对于量子能涤纶纤维40/木代尔60 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺。 As an improvement of the present invention, the step 2) spinning process is specifically as follows: for the quantum energy polyester fiber 60 / Modal 20 / elastic fiber 20 14.8 tex knitting yarn, adopting quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber cotton The method of mixing the bags, and then the spinning process with the quantum energy polyester fiber and the modal fiber; for the quantum energy polyester fiber 40/Mudal 60 14.8 tex knitting yarn, the quantum energy polyester fiber and the wood are adopted. The spinning process of each of the Dale fibers is in a strip.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤3)织造工艺具体如下:选着针织大圆机—落布抽检—称重盖单—坯布运输堆放。As an improvement of the present invention, the step 3) weaving process is specifically as follows: a knitting circular machine is selected - a falling cloth sampling test - a weighing cover sheet - a grey cloth transport stacking.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤4)染色及后整理具体如下,毛坯松卷—缝头—预定型—缝边(成圆筒)—染色前处理—染色—水洗—脱水—柔软整理—定型—预缩—落机包装。As an improvement of the present invention, the step 4) dyeing and finishing is as follows, the blank unwinding-seam-predetermined type-sewing edge (forming a cylinder)-pre-dyeing-dyeing-washing-dehydration-softening finishing - Styling - pre-shrinking - drop-off packaging.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤4)中预定型具体工艺如下,加入双氧水、烧碱、精炼剂、分散剂消泡剂,运转5min,快速升温至80℃,保温30min,降温至60℃,溢流冲洗5min,排液。As an improvement of the present invention, the specific process of the predetermined type in the step 4) is as follows, adding hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, refining agent, dispersant antifoaming agent, running for 5 min, rapidly heating to 80 ° C, holding for 30 min, cooling to 60 ° C , overflow rinse for 5 min, drain.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤4)中染色具体工艺如下:加入棉用匀染剂F-305,运转10min后加入染料质量的1/2,运转15min,加入1/2染料运20min,加入元明粉,运转30min,加入纯碱,运转25min,升温至60℃,保温60min,降温至30℃,酸洗中和15min。As an improvement of the present invention, the specific process of dyeing in the step 4) is as follows: adding a leveling agent F-305 for cotton, adding 10 times of the dye quality after running for 10 minutes, running for 15 minutes, adding 1/2 dye for 20 minutes. Add Yuanming powder, run for 30min, add soda ash, run for 25min, heat up to 60 °C, keep warm for 60min, cool down to 30 °C, pickle and neutralize for 15min.
作为本发明的一种改进,所述步骤4)中定型具体工艺如下,脱水,剖幅,平幅预缩松式烘干,拉幅定形,落布放置,检验,成品,其中平幅预缩松式烘干的烘干温度为110℃,烘干时间为2min,拉幅定型的温度为175℃,速率为25m/min。As an improvement of the present invention, the specific process in the step 4) is as follows: dewatering, sectioning, flat pre-shrinking loose drying, tenter setting, falling cloth placement, inspection, finished product, wherein the flat pre-shrinking The drying temperature of the loose drying is 110 ° C, the drying time is 2 min, the temperature of the tenter setting is 175 ° C, and the rate is 25 m / min.
相对于现有技术,本发明的优点如下:1)该技术方案采用多种纤维混纺,能够在性能上取长补短,充分体现各种纤维的优良性能,赋予该纺织品的多功能性,该方案中,量子能涤纶纤维是由量子能粉末(1%~2%)和普通涤纶树脂在膏状下混合融合,熔融挤出呈球状或圆柱状的量子能涤纶母粒,然后经共混纺丝制取的,其功能性是由量子能粉末产生,该粉末是粒径为500nm左右的亚微米超细粉末,其主 要成分为二氧化硅和硅铝酸盐。该粉末具有远红外、抗紫外和抗菌的作用,所以量子能涤纶纤维是具有远红外、抗紫外和抗菌的功能性纤维。然而量子能涤纶纤维回潮率低,抱合力差,制得的面料吸湿透气性差,易起毛起球,静电现象严重。弹性纤维ZENTRA是由韩国汇维仕公司自主研发的一种新型聚酯材料。ZENTRA纤维具有质地柔软、伸缩能力强、耐用性强、可着色性及染色性强等优点。该纤维可与棉、涤纶、粘胶等纤维混纺,克服了氨纶丝在染色、耐用性及弱化学性等方面存在的问题,广泛应用于高档弹力牛仔、休闲面料及针织领域。木代尔(Modal)是奥地利兰精公司以天然榉木为原料,经专门的纺丝工艺加工而成的制成的再生纤维素纤维。该产品原料全部为天然材料,能够自然分解,对人体和环境都无害,是一种绿色环保纤维。木代尔纤维具有丰满柔软的手感,丝绸般的光泽,良好的吸湿性、可染性及染后色泽鲜艳的特点,采用这三种纤维混纺纱开发的该款高弹柔肤针织面料,能够满足人们对面料功能、舒适、保健的需求,将具有广阔的市场前景;2)该针织面料采用活性染料染色,染色工艺中的活性染料,其匀染性好,染色后各项色牢度较高,在前处理和染色工艺中加入抗静电柔软剂,防止织物在整个处理过程中产生勾丝、折痕和染色不匀。在染色过程中添加棉用匀染剂,使染料分散均匀,防止染料分子的过多聚集;3)由于该面料中含有弹性纤维,所以后整理过程中,要对面料进行热定型,以调整织物经整理加工之后的收缩性能和满足客户对织物幅宽和克重稳定性的要求;4)该制备方法选择合理的前处理方式、染料和染色工艺,保证上染率的同时,减少强力 的损失。该方法中的柔软整理技术、定型、预缩等工序,确保面料光洁柔软,尺寸稳定。整个方法大大降低了成本,便于大规模的推广应用;5)该方法制备的高弹柔肤针织面料产品手感柔软滑爽、悬垂性好和吸湿透气,而且具有抗菌、远红外和抗紫外线的功能性。在功能性、时尚性、附加值、经济效益等方面相比于一般面料具有明显的优势。Compared with the prior art, the advantages of the present invention are as follows: 1) The technical solution adopts a variety of fiber blending, can complement the performance in length, fully demonstrates the excellent performance of various fibers, and gives the textile versatility, in this scheme, The quantum energy polyester fiber is a quantum energy polyester masterbatch which is mixed and fused by a quantum energy powder (1% to 2%) and a common polyester resin in a paste form, and is melt-extruded into a spherical or cylindrical shape, and then obtained by blending and spinning. Its functionality is produced by a quantum energy powder, which is a submicron ultrafine powder with a particle size of about 500 nm. The ingredients are silica and aluminosilicate. The powder has far infrared, anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial effects, so the quantum energy polyester fiber is a functional fiber having far infrared, ultraviolet and antibacterial properties. However, the quantum energy polyester fiber has a low moisture regaining rate and poor cohesion, and the obtained fabric has poor moisture absorption and permeability, is easy to pilling, and has a serious electrostatic phenomenon. Elastomeric fiber ZENTRA is a new type of polyester material independently developed by Korea Huiweis. ZENTRA fiber has the advantages of soft texture, strong stretching ability, strong durability, colorability and dyeability. The fiber can be blended with cotton, polyester, viscose and other fibers to overcome the problems of dyeing, durability and weak chemical properties of spandex, and is widely used in high-grade elastic denim, casual fabrics and knitting. Modal is a regenerated cellulose fiber produced by Austrian Lenzing Company, which is made from natural eucalyptus and processed by a special spinning process. The raw materials of this product are all natural materials, which can be naturally decomposed and are harmless to the human body and the environment. It is a green and environmentally friendly fiber. Modal fiber has a rich and soft hand, silky luster, good hygroscopicity, dyeability and bright color after dyeing. This high-elastic soft knit fabric developed with these three fiber blended yarns. It can meet people's demand for fabric function, comfort and health care, and will have broad market prospects. 2) The knitted fabric is dyed with reactive dyes, and the reactive dyes in the dyeing process have good levelness and color fastness after dyeing. Higher, antistatic softener is added to the pre-treatment and dyeing process to prevent the fabric from being hooked, creased and unevenly dyed throughout the process. Adding a leveling agent for cotton during the dyeing process to evenly distribute the dye and prevent excessive aggregation of dye molecules; 3) Since the fabric contains elastic fibers, the fabric is heat-set during the finishing process to adjust the fabric. The shrinkage performance after finishing and meeting the customer's requirements for fabric width and weight stability; 4) The preparation method selects reasonable pretreatment method, dye and dyeing process to ensure the dyeing rate and reduce the strength Loss. The soft finishing technology, shaping, pre-shrinking and other processes in the method ensure that the fabric is smooth and soft, and the size is stable. The whole method greatly reduces the cost and facilitates large-scale popularization and application; 5) The high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric prepared by the method has soft and smooth feel, good drape and moisture absorption, and has antibacterial, far-infrared and anti-ultraviolet functions. Sex. Compared with general fabrics, it has obvious advantages in terms of functionality, fashion, added value and economic benefits.
具体实施方式detailed description
为了加深对本发明的理解和认识,下面结合具体实施方式对本发明作进一步描述和介绍。The invention will be further described and described in conjunction with the specific embodiments thereof in order to understand the understanding of the invention.
实施例1:Example 1:
高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,所述制备方法包括以下步骤:1)原料选配;量子能涤纶纤维的主要指标:纤维线密度1.44dtex,长度38mm,断裂伸长率:21.2%,断裂强度:6.17cN/tex,卷曲数12,比电阻2.3,含油率2.4;弹性纤维的主要指标:细度为1.33dtex,长度为40mm,回潮率为0.49%,比电阻2.78;木代尔纤维的主要指标:细度1.3dtex、长度39mm、强力:5.13cN/cm、回潮率:11.25%;三种纱线的混纺比分别为:量子能涤纶占60%,木代尔纤维占20%,弹性纤维占20%或者量子能涤纶占40%和木代尔纤维占60%。这种混纺比例可以保证量子能涤纶在面料中占50%,最大限度的发挥量子能纤维的功能,提高该款针织面料的功能性;2)纺纱工艺,在纺纱过程中,由于弹性纤维ZENTRA弹性大,蓬松,抱合力差,为增强其可纺性,首先在前纺工序加入一定量的抗静电剂,纤维重量与抗静电剂 量的配比为1:03%,对于量子能涤纶纤维60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和弹性纤维棉包混合的方法,然后再与量子能涤纶纤维、木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺。对于量子能涤纶纤维40/木代尔60 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺。对于棉包混合后的量子能涤纶纤维和弹性纤维,开清工序中,结合弹性纤维蓬松、弹性大和饱和力差的特点,要适当减少开松打击力度,并降低各打手的速度,同时避免过多的纠缠,降低纤维损伤,确保成卷良好。梳棉工序中,聚酯纤维易黏连上下轧辊,纤维损伤大,棉结多,棉网易下坠转移困难并且易断,应遵循低速度、轻定量、大隔距的工艺原则;增大刺辊和给棉板之间的隔距,适当缩小锡林与盖板的隔距,采用新型金属针布,减少纤维沉积,有利于纤维转移,降低短绒和棉结的发生率。而木代尔纤维整齐度好且比较顺直,易于开松,所以应采用短流程,以开松混合为主,减少打击点,以梳代打,多梳少打,控制落棉率。梳理工序需降低刺辊和锡林的速度,增大盖板与锡林的隔距。在并条工艺,量子能涤纶/弹性纤维预并条、量子能涤纶预并条和木代尔预并条在头道并条机上混合,经过四道并条,保证混合均匀。由于PTT纤维弹性大,后区牵伸力大,所以选择头道主牵伸区牵伸倍数时适当放小,后区适当增大,二三道后区牵伸倍数适当放小,同时适当加大摇架压力和前圈条的张力,提高熟条的条干水平,粗纱工序中,采用慢速度、重加压、较大后区罗拉隔距和尽量放大总牵伸倍数的工艺原则。尽量放大总牵伸倍数,从而降低细纱工序的总牵伸倍数,有利于细纱 牵伸过程中对纤维的控制。细纱工序采用重加压,较大后区牵伸隔距、较小后区牵伸倍数的工艺原则,减少细节和强力弱环的产生,一下括号中所述的为各个设备的具体型号,根据实际情况也可以自行调换;纺纱工艺流程:量子能涤纶60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex针织纱的纺纱工艺流程如下:The preparation method of the high elastic soft knitted fabric comprises the following steps: 1) raw material matching; main indexes of the quantum energy polyester fiber: fiber linear density 1.44 dtex, length 38 mm, elongation at break: 21.2%, fracture Strength: 6.17cN/tex, crimp number 12, specific resistance 2.3, oil content 2.4; main indexes of elastic fiber: fineness 1.33dtex, length 40mm, moisture regain ratio 0.49%, specific resistance 2.78; wooddale fiber Main indicators: fineness 1.3dtex, length 39mm, strength: 5.13cN/cm, moisture regain: 11.25%; the blending ratio of the three yarns is: quantum energy polyester 60%, wooddale fiber 20%, elasticity Fibers account for 20% or quantum energy polyesters account for 40% and wooddale fibers account for 60%. This blending ratio can ensure that the quantum energy polyester accounts for 50% of the fabric, maximizes the function of the quantum energy fiber, and improves the functionality of the knitted fabric; 2) the spinning process, in the spinning process, due to the elastic fiber ZENTRA is elastic, fluffy and has poor cohesion. To enhance its spinnability, firstly add a certain amount of antistatic agent, fiber weight and antistatic agent in the pre-spinning process. The ratio of the amount is 1:03%. For the knitting yarn of quantum energy polyester fiber 60/Mudal 20/elastic fiber 20 14.8 tex, the method of mixing quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber cotton bag is adopted, and then with quantum A spinning process in which polyester fibers and modal fibers are each formed into a strip. For the knitting yarn of quantum energy polyester fiber 40/Mudal 60 14.8 tex, a spinning process in which the quantum energy polyester fiber and the modal fiber are each formed into a strip is adopted. For the quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber after the cotton bale is mixed, in the opening process, combined with the characteristics of bulkiness, elasticity and poor saturation of the elastic fiber, it is necessary to appropriately reduce the opening force and reduce the speed of each beater, while avoiding More entanglement, reducing fiber damage and ensuring good roll. In the carding process, the polyester fiber is easy to adhere to the upper and lower rolls, the fiber damage is large, the cotton knot is many, the cotton net is easy to fall and the transfer is difficult and easy to break, and the process principle of low speed, light weight and large gauge should be followed; And the gap between the cotton board, properly reduce the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate, the use of new metal card clothing, reduce fiber deposition, is conducive to fiber transfer, reducing the incidence of short piles and neps. The Modal fiber has good uniformity and is relatively straightforward, and it is easy to open. Therefore, a short process should be adopted, which is mainly based on opening and loosening, reducing the hitting point, combing and playing, combing and playing less, and controlling the rate of falling cotton. The carding process needs to reduce the speed of the licker and the cylinder and increase the gauge between the cover and the cylinder. In the drawdown process, the quantum energy polyester/elastic fiber pre-strand, the quantum energy polyester pre-strand and the modal pre-adhesive are mixed on the head draw frame, and the four passes are used to ensure uniform mixing. Due to the large elasticity of the PTT fiber and the large drafting force in the rear zone, the drafting ratio of the main drafting zone should be appropriately reduced when the drafting ratio is selected, and the rear zone should be appropriately increased. The drafting ratio of the rear zone of the second and third passes should be appropriately reduced. The pressure of the large cradle and the tension of the front bead increase the level of the strip of the cooked strip. In the roving process, the process principle of slow speed, heavy pressurization, large rear roller spacing and maximizing the total draw ratio is used. Maximize the total draw ratio as much as possible to reduce the total draw ratio of the spinning process, which is beneficial to the fine yarn Control of the fibers during the drawing process. The spinning process adopts the principle of heavy pressurization, large rear zone drafting distance, and small rear zone drafting multiple, reducing the generation of details and strong weak rings. The specific models of each device are described in parentheses, according to The actual situation can also be exchanged; the spinning process: Quantum Energy Polyester 60 / Modal 20 / Elastic Fiber 20 14.8tex knitting yarn spinning process is as follows:
①量子能涤纶和弹性纤维:抓棉机(FA002A)—混开棉机(A035E)—开棉机(FA106)—给棉机(A092A)—成卷机(A076E)—梳棉(A186F)—预并条(FA306A)1 Quantum energy polyester and elastic fiber: cotton picker (FA002A) - mixed opener (A035E) - opener (FA106) - cotton machine (A092A) - winder (A076E) - carding (A186F) - Pre-adhesion (FA306A)
②量子能涤纶:抓棉机(FA002A)—混开棉机(A035E)—开棉机(FA106)—给棉机(A092A)—成卷机(A076E)—梳棉(A186F)—预并条(FA306A)2 Quantum Energy Polyester: Cotton Picker (FA002A) - Blended Cotton Machine (A035E) - Cotton Opener (FA106) - Cotton Feeder (A092A) - Winding Machine (A076E) - Carding (A186F) - Pre-Banding (FA306A)
③木代尔:抓棉机(FA002A)—混开棉机(A035E)—开棉机(FA106)—给棉机(A092A)—成卷机(A076E)—梳棉(FA203A)—预并条(FA306A)3 Modal: cotton picker (FA002A) - mixed cotton machine (A035E) - opener (FA106) - cotton machine (A092A) - winder (A076E) - carding (FA203A) - pre-parallel (FA306A)
①+②+③预并条—头道并条(FA306A)—二并(FA306A)—三并(FA306A)—末并(JWF1310)—粗纱(JWF1415)—细纱(DTM129,即3根量子能涤纶与弹性纤维混合的预并条、3根量子能涤纶预并条和两根木代尔预并条在头道并条机上进行头道并条,然后8根头道并条进行二并条,三并条和末并条工艺,然后进行粗纱和细纱工艺。1+2+3 pre-adjoining-heading drawdown (FA306A)-two-in-one (FA306A)-three-in-one (FA306A)-end (JWF1310)-roving (JWF1415)-spun yarn (DTM129, ie 3 quantum energy polyester) Pre-adjacent strips mixed with elastic fibers, three quantum-energy polyester pre-strands and two modal pre-adhesives are used for the first draw frame on the head draw frame, and then eight headings are used for the second draw, three The draw and end dosing process, followed by the roving and spinning process.
量子能涤纶40/木代尔60 14.8tex针织纱的纺纱工艺流程如下:The spinning process of Quantum Energy Polyester 40/Modal 60 14.8tex knitting yarn is as follows:
①量子能涤纶:抓棉机(FA002A)—混开棉机(A035E)—开棉机(FA106)—给棉机(A092A)—成卷机(A076E)—梳棉(A186F)—预并条(FA306A)1 Quantum Energy Polyester: Cotton Picker (FA002A) - Blended Cotton Machine (A035E) - Cotton Opener (FA106) - Cotton Feeder (A092A) - Winding Machine (A076E) - Carding (A186F) - Pre-Banding (FA306A)
②木代尔:抓棉机(FA002A)—混开棉机(A035E)—开棉机(FA106) —给棉机(A092A)—成卷机(A076E)—梳棉(FA203A)—预并条(FA306A)2 Modal: cotton picker (FA002A) - mixed cotton machine (A035E) - opener (FA106) - cotton machine (A092A) - winder (A076E) - carding (FA203A) - pre-parallel (FA306A)
①+②预并条—头道并条(FA306A)—二并(FA306A)—三并(FA306A)—末并(JWF1310)—粗纱(JWF1415)—细纱(DTM129)—GA016络筒机,即3根量子能涤纶预并条和4根木代尔预并条在头道并条机上进行头道并条,然后6根头道并条的条子进行二并条、三并条和末并条工艺,然后进行粗纱、细纱和络筒工艺。1+2 pre-parallel - headway draw (FA306A) - two (FA306A) - triple (FA306A) - end (JWF1310) - roving (JWF1415) - spun yarn (DTM129) - GA016 winder, ie 3 The root quantum energy polyester pre-strand and the four modal pre-adhesives are used for the first draw frame on the head draw frame, and then the six first-hand draw strips are subjected to the second draw, the triple draw and the final draw process. The roving, spinning and winding processes are then carried out.
纺纱工艺控制流程如下:The spinning process control process is as follows:
(A)量子能涤纶60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex针织纱的工艺参数及关键点(A) Process parameters and key points of quantum energy polyester 60/Modal 20/elastic fiber 20 14.8tex knitting yarn
(1)量子能涤纶清花梳棉主要工艺参数(1) Main process parameters of quantum energy polyester flower combing
清花:A076E综合打手速度750r/min,棉卷罗拉速度:10转/min,风扇速度:880转/min,棉卷设计湿定量为380g/m,设计定长31.6m,清花小卷定重13.6kg(含棉钎)。Clear flowers: A076E comprehensive hit speed 750r/min, lap roller speed: 10 rev / min, fan speed: 880 rev / min, lap design wet quantitative 380g / m, design fixed length 31.6m, clear flower small volume It weighs 13.6kg (including cotton brazing).
梳棉:锡林-盖板隔距8*7*7*7*8,锡林速度350r/min,刺辊速度680r/min,盖板速度120mm/min,出条速度65m/min,定量21.5g/5m,棉结数:2粒/1g,条干cv值:4.5%,回潮率:0.4%。Carding: cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 350r/min, licking speed 680r/min, cover speed 120mm/min, delivery speed 65m/min, quantitative 21.5 g/5m, number of neps: 2 / 1g, dry cv value: 4.5%, moisture regain: 0.4%.
(2)量子能涤纶和弹性纤维棉包混合后的清花梳棉主要工艺参数清花:A076E综合打手速度720r/min,棉卷罗拉速度:8转/min,风扇速度:800转/min,棉卷设计湿定量为380g/m,设计定长31.6m,清花小卷定重13.6kg(含棉钎)。(2) Main process parameters of clearing carding after mixing of quantum energy polyester and elastic fiber cotton bales Clearing: A076E comprehensive beater speed 720r/min, lap roller speed: 8 rev / min, fan speed: 800 rev / min, The lap design has a wet weight of 380 g/m, a design length of 31.6 m, and a small volume of clear flowers of 13.6 kg (including cotton brazing).
梳棉:锡林-盖板隔距8*7*7*7*8,锡林速度330r/min,刺辊速度 650r/min,盖板速度110mm/min,出条速度60m/min,定量21.5g/5m,棉结数:3粒/1g,条干cv值:4.8%,回潮率:0.5%。Carding: cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 330r/min, licker speed 650r/min, cover speed 110mm/min, delivery speed 60m/min, quantitative 21.5g/5m, number of neps: 3/1g, dry cv value: 4.8%, moisture regain: 0.5%.
(3)木代尔清花梳棉主要工艺参数(3) Main process parameters of Mudale Qinghua combing
清花:A076E综合打手速度750r/min,棉卷罗拉速度:10转/min,风扇速度:880转/min莫代尔设计湿定量为380g/m,设计定长31.6m,清花小卷定重13.6kg(含棉钎)。Clear flower: A076E comprehensive beater speed 750r/min, lap roller speed: 10 rev / min, fan speed: 880 rev / min Modal design wet weight 380g / m, design fixed length 31.6m, clear flower small volume fixed weight 13.6 Kg (with cotton braze).
梳棉:锡林-盖板隔距8*7*7*7*8,锡林速度360r/min,刺辊速度645r/min,出条速度80m/min,道夫转速25r/min,定量25g/5m,棉结数:3粒/1g,条干cv值:6.81%,回潮率:10.2%。Carding: cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 360r/min, licking speed 645r/min, delivery speed 80m/min, doffer speed 25r/min, quantitative 25g/ 5m, number of neps: 3 / 1g, dry cv value: 6.81%, moisture regain: 10.2%.
(4)预并条主要工艺参数(4) Main process parameters of pre-parallel
表2 预并条工艺参数Table 2 Pre-adjoining process parameters
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000001
(5)并条主要工艺参数:(5) Main process parameters of draw:
表3 并条工艺参数Table 3 Process parameters
工序Process 湿定量g/5mWet quantification g/5m 并合数Combined number 罗拉隔mmRoller mm 总牵伸Total draft
头并Head and 22twenty two 3QT预+3混预+2M预3QT pre+3 mixed pre-+2M pre- 11×1811×18 8.368.36
二并Second 2020 66 11×1811×18 6.66.6
三并Triple 2020 66 11×1811×18 66
末并End 19.819.8 66 11×1811×18 5.945.94
(6)粗纱主要工艺参数(6) Main technical parameters of roving
粗纱干定量4.8g/10m,捻度3.0,后区牵伸倍数1.25倍,总牵伸倍数8.28倍,锭速850r/min。The roving dry weight was 4.8 g/10 m, the twist was 3.0, the draw ratio in the back zone was 1.25 times, the total draw ratio was 8.28 times, and the spindle speed was 850 r/min.
(7)细纱主要工艺参数(7) Main technical parameters of the spun yarn
细纱捻系数设计为338.5,钢领PG1 4254,钢丝圈F/O 6.0,3.0压力棒隔距块,罗拉中心距18×22。The yarn twist coefficient is designed to be 338.5, the steel collar PG1 4254, the wire ring F/O 6.0, 3.0 pressure bar spacer block, and the roller center distance is 18×22.
(B)量子能涤纶40/木代尔60 14.8tex针织纱的纺纱工艺流程如下:(B) The spinning process of Quantum Energy Polyester 40/Modal 60 14.8tex knitting yarn is as follows:
(1)量子能涤纶清花梳棉主要工艺参数(1) Main process parameters of quantum energy polyester flower combing
清花:A076E综合打手速度750r/min,棉卷罗拉速度:10转/min,风扇速度:880转/min,棉卷设计湿定量为380g/m,设计定长31.6m,清花小卷定重13.6kg(含棉钎)。Clear flowers: A076E comprehensive hit speed 750r/min, lap roller speed: 10 rev / min, fan speed: 880 rev / min, lap design wet quantitative 380g / m, design fixed length 31.6m, clear flower small volume It weighs 13.6kg (including cotton brazing).
梳棉:锡林-盖板隔距8*7*7*7*8,锡林速度350r/min,刺辊速度680r/min,盖板速度120mm/min,出条速度65m/min,定量21.5g/5m,棉结数:2粒/1g,条干cv值:4.5%,回潮率:0.4%。Carding: cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 350r/min, licking speed 680r/min, cover speed 120mm/min, delivery speed 65m/min, quantitative 21.5 g/5m, number of neps: 2 / 1g, dry cv value: 4.5%, moisture regain: 0.4%.
(2)木代尔清花梳棉主要工艺参数(2) Main process parameters of Mudale Qinghua combing
清花:A076E综合打手速度750r/min,棉卷罗拉速度:10转/min,风扇速度:880转/min莫代尔设计湿定量为380g/m,设计定长31.6m,清花小卷定重13.6kg(含棉钎)。Clear flower: A076E comprehensive beater speed 750r/min, lap roller speed: 10 rev / min, fan speed: 880 rev / min Modal design wet weight 380g / m, design fixed length 31.6m, clear flower small volume fixed weight 13.6 Kg (with cotton braze).
梳棉:锡林-盖板隔距8*7*7*7*8,锡林速度360r/min,刺辊速度645r/min,出条速度80m/min,道夫转速25r/min,定量25g/5m,棉结数:3粒/1g,条干cv值:6.81%,回潮率:10.2%。Carding: cylinder-cover spacing 8*7*7*7*8, cylinder speed 360r/min, licking speed 645r/min, delivery speed 80m/min, doffer speed 25r/min, quantitative 25g/ 5m, number of neps: 3 / 1g, dry cv value: 6.81%, moisture regain: 10.2%.
(3)量子能涤纶和木代尔预并条主要工艺参数: (3) Main process parameters of quantum energy polyester and modal pre-adhesion:
表4 预并条工艺参数Table 4 Pre-adjoining process parameters
生条Sliver 湿定量g/5mWet quantification g/5m 并合数Combined number 罗拉隔mmRoller mm 牵伸倍数Drafting multiple
量子能涤纶Quantum energy polyester 24twenty four 88 11×1811×18 8.68.6
木代尔Mudale 2020 88 11×1811×18 8.178.17
(4)并条主要工艺参数:(4) Main process parameters of the draw:
表5 并条工艺参数Table 5 Process parameters
工序Process 湿定量g/5mWet quantification g/5m 并合数Combined number 罗拉隔mmRoller mm 总牵伸Total draft
头并Head and 23twenty three 3QT预+4M预3QT pre +4M pre 11×1811×18 6.786.78
二并Second 21twenty one 66 11×1811×18 6.576.57
三并Triple 21twenty one 66 11×1811×18 66
末并End 19.819.8 66 11×1811×18 66
(5)粗纱主要工艺参数(5) Main technical parameters of roving
粗纱干定量4.8g/10m,捻度3.17,后区牵伸倍数1.35倍,总牵伸倍8.28倍,锭速850r/min。The roving dry weight is 4.8g/10m, the twist is 3.17, the draw ratio in the back zone is 1.35 times, the total draw ratio is 8.28 times, and the spindle speed is 850r/min.
(6)细纱主要工艺参数(6) Main technical parameters of the spun yarn
细纱捻系数设计为350,钢领PG1 4254,钢丝圈F/O 6.0,3.0压力棒隔距块,罗拉中心距18x22。The yarn twist coefficient is designed to be 350, the steel collar PG1 4254, the traveler F/O 6.0, 3.0 pressure bar spacer block, and the roller center distance is 18x22.
3)织造工艺;所述步骤3)织造工艺具体如下:选着针织大圆机-落布抽检-称重盖单-坯布运输堆放;高弹柔肤针织面料所使用的纱线为量子能涤纶60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex针织纱和量子能涤纶40/木代尔60 14.8tex针织纱,两种纱线一隔一穿纱,加20D氨纶丝,选择意大利诺得利针织单面大圆机进行试制和生产。针织织造工序,首先根据纱支和要求的门幅和克重,选择合适针织大圆机型 号,然后两种纱线按照一隔一的方式穿纱,每种纱线的摆放位置要准确无误。机上织造时,要适当降低上机张力和采用较低转速,以减少纱线的意外伸长和断头的产生,保证生产的顺利进行。针织大圆机使用前,要先检查机器各部件是否有缺损,配合是否有松动,主要部件的精确度是否控制在规定范围内,针筒和针盘上的织针是否圆整平齐,机器是否平稳。这些项目做好以后进行织物调试,按照工艺要求穿混纺纱和氨纶丝,保证纱长到位。织造上机工艺:3) Weaving process; the step 3) The weaving process is as follows: the knitting circular machine - the falling cloth sampling - the weighing cover single - the grey cloth transport stacking; the yarn used in the high elastic soft knitted fabric is the quantum energy polyester 60 / Modal 20 / Elastic fiber 20 14.8tex knitting yarn and quantum energy polyester 40 / Modal 60 14.8tex knitting yarn, two yarns one by one, plus 20D spandex, choose Italian Nordley knitting sheet The large round machine is used for trial production and production. Knitting and weaving process, first select the appropriate knitting large round model according to the yarn count and the required width and weight. No., then the two yarns are threaded one by one, and each yarn is placed in an accurate position. When weaving on the machine, it is necessary to appropriately reduce the tension of the upper machine and adopt a lower rotation speed to reduce the accidental elongation and breakage of the yarn to ensure smooth production. Before using the circular knitting machine, check whether the parts of the machine are defective. If there is any looseness, whether the accuracy of the main parts is within the specified range, whether the knitting needles on the needle cylinder and the dial are round and even, whether the machine is smooth. After these projects are completed, the fabrics are debugged, and the blended yarns and spandex yarns are worn according to the process requirements to ensure that the yarn length is in place. Weaving machine technology:
表1 织造工艺要求表Table 1 Weaving Process Requirements Table
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000002
4)染色及后整理,染色及后整理具体如下,毛坯松卷—缝头—预定型—缝边、成圆筒—染色前处理—染色—水洗—脱水—柔软整理—定型—预缩—落机包装,预定形的目的是消除弹性针织物内部的残余应力,避免染色过程中出现折痕、条花等疵病,此外,进一步控制织物 的幅宽和克重,4) Dyeing and finishing, dyeing and finishing are as follows, blank unwinding - seam head - predetermined type - seam edge, forming cylinder - pre-dyeing treatment - dyeing - washing - dehydration - soft finishing - shaping - pre-shrinking - falling Machine packaging, the purpose of the predetermined shape is to eliminate the residual stress inside the elastic knitted fabric, to avoid creases, strips and other defects in the dyeing process, in addition, further control of the fabric Width and weight,
工艺处方:Process prescription:
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000003
炼漂一浴:弹性织物的精炼和氧漂同浴进行,可以缩短工艺流程,精炼的目的是去除化纤中含有的油剂。本工艺中选用弹性纤维专用精炼剂进行精炼处理,以去除弹性纤维纺丝时所使用的硅类油剂,避免染斑等染疵的产生。而氧漂的目的是去除木代尔纤维中的杂质,提高织物白度。工艺处方One bath of refining and bleaching: the refining of elastic fabrics and the oxygen bathing are carried out in the same bath, which can shorten the process, and the purpose of refining is to remove the oil agent contained in the chemical fiber. In the process, a refining agent for elastic fiber is used for refining treatment to remove the silicone oil used in the spinning of the elastic fiber, so as to avoid the occurrence of dyeing such as staining. The purpose of oxygen bleaching is to remove impurities from the modal fibers and increase the whiteness of the fabric. Process prescription
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000004
该步骤4)中预定型具体工艺如下,加入双氧水、烧碱、精炼剂、分散剂消泡剂,运转5min,快速升温至80℃,保温30min,降温至60℃,溢流冲洗5min,排液;The specific process of the predetermined type in the step 4) is as follows, adding hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, refining agent, dispersing agent defoaming agent, running for 5 min, rapidly heating to 80 ° C, holding for 30 min, cooling to 60 ° C, overflowing for 5 min, draining;
染色工艺处方:Dyeing process prescription:
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2016083541-appb-000006
染色具体工艺如下:加棉用匀染剂F-305,运转10min后加入1/2质量的染料,运转15min,加入1/2染料运20min,加入元明粉,运转30min,加入纯碱,运转25min-,升温至60℃,保温60min,降温至30℃,酸洗中和15min。The specific dyeing process is as follows: add cotton leveling agent F-305, add 1/2 mass of dye after 10 minutes of operation, run for 15min, add 1/2 dye for 20min, add yuanming powder, run for 30min, add soda ash, run for 25min -, warmed to 60 ° C, kept for 60 min, cooled to 30 ° C, acid washed and neutralized for 15 min.
定型具体工艺如下,脱水,剖幅,平幅预缩松式烘干,拉幅定形,落布放置,检验,成品,其中平幅预缩松式烘干的烘干温度为110℃,烘干时间为2min,拉幅定型的温度为175℃,速率为25m/min。The specific process of shaping is as follows: dewatering, sectioning, flat pre-shrinking loose drying, tenter setting, falling cloth placement, inspection, finished product, wherein the flat pre-shrink loose drying drying temperature is 110 ° C, drying The time was 2 min, the tenter setting temperature was 175 ° C, and the rate was 25 m / min.
需要说明的是上述实施例,并非用来限定本发明的保护范围,在上述技术方案的基础上所作出的等同变换或替代均落入本发明权利要求所保护的范围 The above embodiments are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and equivalent changes or substitutions made on the basis of the above technical solutions fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims (8)

  1. 一种高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述制备方法包括以下步骤:A method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit fabric, characterized in that the preparation method comprises the following steps:
    1)原料选配;2)纺纱工艺;3)织造工艺;4)染色及后整理。1) raw material selection; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process; 4) dyeing and finishing.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤1)中原料选配具体如下,量子能涤纶纤维、弹性纤维、木代尔纤维,量子能涤纶纤维占50%,木代尔纤维占40%,弹性纤维占10%,这种混纺比例可以保证量子能涤纶在面料中占50%,最大限度的发挥量子能纤维的功能,提高该款针织面料的功能性。The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the raw materials in the step 1) are specifically selected as follows, a quantum energy polyester fiber, an elastic fiber, a modal fiber, and a quantum energy polyester fiber. 50%, Modal fiber accounts for 40%, and elastic fiber accounts for 10%. This blending ratio can ensure that the quantum energy polyester accounts for 50% of the fabric, maximizing the function of the quantum fiber and improving the knitted fabric. Feature.
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤2)纺纱工艺具体如下:对于量子能涤纶纤维60/木代尔20/弹性纤维20 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和弹性纤维棉包混合的方法,然后再与量子能涤纶纤维、木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺;对于量子能涤纶纤维40/木代尔60 14.8tex的针织纱线,采取量子能涤纶纤维和木代尔纤维各自成条的纺纱工艺。The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit fabric according to claim 2, wherein the step 2) the spinning process is as follows: for the quantum energy polyester fiber 60/Modal 20/elastic fiber 20 14.8 tex Knitting yarn, which is a method of mixing quantum energy polyester fiber and elastic fiber cotton bag, and then spinning with quantum energy polyester fiber and modal fiber; for quantum energy polyester fiber 40/Modal 60 14.8 The knitting yarn of tex adopts the spinning process of quantum energy polyester fiber and modal fiber.
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤3)织造工艺具体如下:选着针织大圆机—落布抽检—称重盖单—坯布运输堆放。The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the step 3) the weaving process is as follows: a knitting circular machine-dropping sampling-weighing cover-gray transport stacking is selected.
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤4)染色及后整理具体如下,毛坯松卷—缝头—预定型—缝边(成圆筒)—染色前处理—染色—水洗—脱水—柔软整理—定型—预缩—落机包装。 The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein the step 4) dyeing and finishing is as follows, the blank unwinding-sew-predetermined type-sewing edge (forming a cylinder) - pre-dyeing treatment - dyeing - washing - dehydration - soft finishing - stereotypes - pre-shrinking - drop-off packaging.
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤4)中预定型具体工艺如下,加入双氧水、烧碱、精炼剂、分散剂消泡剂,运转5min,快速升温至80℃,保温30min,降温至60℃,溢流冲洗5min,排液。The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the specific process of the predetermined type in the step 4) is as follows: adding hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, a refining agent, a dispersing agent antifoaming agent, and running for 5 minutes, Rapidly warm to 80 ° C, heat for 30 min, cool to 60 ° C, overflow rinse for 5 min, drain.
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤4)中染色具体工艺如下:加入棉用匀染剂,运转10min后加入染料质量的1/2,运转15min,加入剩余1/2的燃料运转20min,加入元明粉,运转30min,加入纯碱,运转25min,升温至60℃,保温60min,降温至30℃,酸洗中和15min。The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knit fabric according to claim 6, wherein the dyeing process in the step 4) is as follows: adding a leveling agent for cotton, and adding 1/2 of the dye quality after running for 10 minutes, Run for 15 min, add the remaining 1/2 of the fuel for 20 min, add the Yuanming powder, run for 30 min, add soda ash, run for 25 min, warm to 60 ° C, keep warm for 60 min, cool to 30 ° C, pickling and neutralize for 15 min.
  8. 根据权利要求6或7所述的高弹柔肤针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤4)中定型具体工艺如下,脱水,剖幅,平幅预缩松式烘干,拉幅定形,落布放置,检验,成品,其中平幅预缩松式烘干的烘干温度为110℃,烘干时间为2min,拉幅定型的温度为175℃,速率为25m/min。 The method for preparing a high-elastic soft-knitted knitted fabric according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the specific process of the step 4) is as follows: dehydration, splitting, flat-width pre-shrinking loose-drying, tentering Shape, drop placement, inspection, finished product, wherein the drying temperature of the flat pre-shrink loose drying is 110 ° C, the drying time is 2 min, the tenter setting temperature is 175 ° C, and the rate is 25 m / min.
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