WO2016083389A1 - Emulsion de type pickering comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique - Google Patents
Emulsion de type pickering comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique Download PDFInfo
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- WO2016083389A1 WO2016083389A1 PCT/EP2015/077525 EP2015077525W WO2016083389A1 WO 2016083389 A1 WO2016083389 A1 WO 2016083389A1 EP 2015077525 W EP2015077525 W EP 2015077525W WO 2016083389 A1 WO2016083389 A1 WO 2016083389A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
Definitions
- the present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, preferably for topical application, of the "Pickering" type. More particularly, the present invention relates to the field of care, hygiene, protection and / or make-up of the skin and / or nails, and in particular of the skin of the face and / or the body.
- skin is meant the skin of the face and / or the body.
- nails is also meant false nails to the extent that the desired cosmetic effects are often identical.
- surfactants especially as emulsifying agents (or emulsifiers) can have an impact on the cosmetics of the products and the powderiness of the deposit, very appreciated by consumers.
- the presence of aluminum salts limits the wide family use of surfactants because of their ionic character.
- These surfactants are also likely to produce certain adverse effects, such as a sticky, slippery or soapy effect.
- a “Pickering” type emulsion is an emulsion comprising a continuous phase and a phase dispersed in said continuous phase; said phases being immiscible, and said emulsion being stabilized by solid particles adsorbed at the interface of the two immiscible phases and without the need to use emulsifying surfactants.
- the particles considered in "Pickering" type emulsions also participate in the sensory of the formulas as a cosmetic charge.
- EPI application 005849 teaches in particular the use of compositions comprising Pickering emulsions for treating hair and scalp.
- the subject of the present invention is a Pickering type emulsion, in particular a cosmetic emulsion, comprising:
- composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, has an X-ray diffraction line greater than 9.4 ⁇ and less than or equal to 9.8 ⁇ .
- composition comprising an emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the Si-OH silanol groups at the edge of the layers of the phyllosilicate.
- composition comprising the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, is characterized by. an absence of infrared absorption band at 7156 cm -1 .
- This 7156 cm -1 band corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
- composition comprising the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration M 2 3 OH.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate particles are adsorbed at the interface of the aqueous phase and the oily phase and thus make it possible to stabilize said emulsion and to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
- Pickering type emulsion does not contain an emulsifying surfactant.
- not containing emulsifying surfactant is understood to mean containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50% by weight and more preferably less than 0.10% by weight of emulsifying surfactant or even totally free of emulsifying surfactant.
- surfactant means an amphiphilic molecule, that is to say that it has two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic (which retains fat) and apolar, the other hydrophilic (miscible in water) and polar.
- HLB Hydropbile-Lipophilic Balance
- the term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifying Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
- HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions.
- the HLB of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
- compositions comprising these emulsions do not have a sticky effect, and do not "slip".
- a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention may be used in a composition comprising the emulsion according to the invention in the form of a powder or in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and advantageously in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel. It has also been demonstrated that said synthetic phyllosilicate, in gel form, was particularly effective in stabilizing said fatty phase / aqueous phase interfaces, and forming fine and stable emulsions over time.
- Synthetic phyllosilicates such as those described in application WO2008 / 009799 and advantageously those disclosed in patent application FR2977580, are particularly suitable for the invention.
- said synthetic phyllosilicate is used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.
- said synthetic phyllosilicate is used therein in a dry particulate form (or powder).
- said synthetic phyllosilicate is used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and in a dry particulate form (or powder).
- the composition comprising the emulsion according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
- the present invention also relates to the use of a synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si 4 Oio (OH) 2 according to the invention in a "Pickering" type emulsion, as stabilizing agent of said emulsion.
- the subject of the invention is a method for preparing an emulsion according to the invention, comprising at least the following stages: 1) dispersing in water, with stirring, the synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io (OH) 2 according to the invention as defined below and an optional additional gelling agent with Rayneri stirring;
- the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of an emulsion according to the invention to the skin and / or the nails.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a crystalline structure in accordance with that of a hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg 3 SiO (OH) 2 belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates.
- phyllosilicates are generally constituted by a stack of elementary sheets of crystalline structure, the number of which varies from a few units to a few tens of units.
- Each elemental sheet is constituted by the association of two layers of tetrahedra, in which are positioned the silicon atoms, located on either side of a layer of octahedra in which the magnesium atoms are positioned.
- This group corresponds to phyllosilicates 2/1, also called T.O.T. (Tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron).
- a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention can be obtained according to a preparation method such as that described in application WO2008 / 009799 and is preferably obtained according to the technology described in application FR 2 977 580.
- This preparation process comprises in particular a prolonged hydrothennal treatment, which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate can be used in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic gel, in particular in the image of that directly obtained at the end of the synthesis process.
- the parameters which influence the synthesis and the properties of a synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of a gel which are suitable for the invention are the nature of the heat treatment (200 ° C. to 900 ° C.), the pressure, the nature of the reagents and their proportions.
- the duration and the temperature of the hydrothermal treatment make it possible to control the size of the particles.
- the lower the temperature the smaller the synthesized particles as described in application FR 2 977 580.
- the size control makes it possible to provide new properties and better control of its hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. , that is, amphiphilic.
- the gel as obtained at the end of the synthesis process may be subjected to a possible washing step with water / centrifugation, after which it is dried and ground.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate is then available in powder form.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate considered according to the invention can also be formulated as a powder in a composition according to the invention.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention can be characterized by various parameters, namely infrared absorption bands, its size, and its purity, as detailed below. after.
- analyzes such as nuclear magnetic resonance in particular 29 Si may be useful for the characterization of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention.
- thermogravimetric analysis ATG
- X-ray diffraction can also be used for this purpose.
- the apparatus used is a Nicolet 6700 FT1R Fourier transform spectrometer, equipped with an integrating sphere, with an InGaA detector and a CaF 2 separator and with a resolution of 12 cm -1 , more preferably 8 cm -1 and even more. more preferably 4 cm -1 .
- the values of the infrared absorption bands given in this description are to be considered as being at plus or minus 6 cm -1 and more preferably at plus or minus 4 cm -1. more preferably to plus or minus 2 cm -1 .
- a composition comprising at least one aqueous part, such as an emulsion
- the expert performs stretching enlargements, in particular, it may for example be such expansions to within 200 cm! "From both sides of a suspected infrared absorption band.
- a natural talc is a mineral species composed of magnesium silicate, doubly hydroxylated formula Mg3Si40i.o (OH) 2, which may contain traces of nickel, iron, aluminum, calcium or sodium.
- Natural talc exhibits an infrared spectrum having a typical infrared absorption band, fine and intense, of 7184 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2 v Mg 3 OH
- the natural talc usually has chemical elements substituting for magnesium and with silicon in the crystalline structure which impose the appearance of at least one additional infrared absorption band, in particular that corresponding to the extensional vibration of 7156 cm -1 attributable to 2 v Mg 2 FeOH.
- the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention differs from a natural talc by an infrared absorption band of 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the elongation vibration attributed to Si-OH silanol groups at the edges of the phyllosilicate layers.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate spectrum is also characterized by an absence of an infrared absorption band of 7156 cm -1 .
- This band at 7156 cm -1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
- the spectrum of synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by the infrared absorption band of 7184 cm -1 common to natural talc.
- composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the Si-OH silanol groups at the edges of the phyllosilicate layers.
- composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, is characterized by an absence of an infrared absorption band of 7156 cm -1 This band at 7156 cm -1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
- composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm- 1 corresponding to the stretching vibration MgsOH.
- a broad infrared absorption band is detectable, easily identifiable, for example 5500cm- 1 .
- the particle size measurement obtained by this technique corresponds to the value of the hydrodynamic diameter of the particle, that is to say that it comprises both the size of the particle but also the thickness of the hydration layer.
- the analyzes were carried out using a VASCO-2 granulometer from Cordouan.
- the NanoQ TM software was used in multi-acquisition mode with the Padé-Laplace algorithm.
- a synthetic layered silicate suitable for the invention when it is in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel preferably has a mean size ranging from 300 nm to 500 nm.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate when it is used in the form of a powder may have an average size ranging from a few microns to several hundred microns, preferably ranging from 5 ⁇ to 100 ⁇ , or may be in the form of porous micron or plurimicron aggregates composed of said particles.
- the synthetic phyllosilicate considered according to the invention has a degree of purity of at least 99.90%, preferably at least 99.99%.
- the 29 silicon ( 29 Si) NMR spectra were recorded on a BRUKER Avance 400 (9.4 T) spectrometer.
- the reference for chemical shifts is tetramethylsilane (TMS).
- TMS tetramethylsilane
- the samples have. were placed in 4 mm zirconia rotors.
- the rotation speed around the magic angle (MAS) has been set to 8kHz.
- the experiments were carried out at room temperature of 21 ° C.
- the 29 Si spectra were obtained either by direct polarization (30 ° rotation) with a 60 s recirculation delay or by cross polarization (CP) between the 1 H and the 29 Si (recycling time of 5 sec. contact of 3 ms).
- Thermogravimetric analysis of a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention shows a lower thermal stability (around 800 ° C.) than that of natural talc and it is characterized by four losses of mass unlike natural talc which has none only one, around 900 ° C.
- the composition comprising at least one aqueous portion, such that an emulsion
- the X-ray diffractogram of the synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention has the same positions of the diffraction lines as those of natural talc, with the exception of a line. Indeed, the natural talc has a diffraction line at 9.36 ⁇ while the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 ⁇ , and up to 9.8 ⁇ .
- the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 ⁇ and less than or equal to 9.8 ⁇ .
- the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a diffraction line greater than or equal to 9.5 ⁇ , advantageously greater than or equal to
- the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a diffraction line less than or equal to 9.7 ⁇ , advantageously less than or equal to
- the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention may furthermore have a diffraction line of between 4.60 ⁇ and 4.80 ⁇ and / or a diffraction line of between 3.10 ⁇ and 3.20 ⁇ and / or a diffraction line between 1.51 ⁇ and
- a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is devoid of interfoliary cations. Indeed, this characteristic is demonstrated by the absence of an X-ray diffraction line located at a distance of between 12.00 ⁇ and 18.00 ⁇ , usually revealing a swelling phase with inter-plane spaces in which there are interfoliary cations and possible water molecules.
- the "% by weight” means “% by weight of dry matter” or “% by weight of active material”.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active material, more preferably from 1% to 7%, 5% by weight of active material, and better still from 2% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition for 0.3% to 50% by weight in the oily phase, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight. % by weight in the oily phase and more preferably for 4% to 20% by weight in the oily phase.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention is in anhydrous form (powder), it is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.5% to 35% by weight. active material, preferably from 1% to 32% by weight of active material and more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention can be advantageously cosmetic or dermatological.
- composition according to the invention being intended for topical application to the skin and / or the nails, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
- physiologically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with the skin, and / or the nails.
- the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
- the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
- Water-soluble solvent is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibiiInstitut in the upper 50% water by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
- the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
- the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
- polyol is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
- a polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.
- the polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
- the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
- said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
- composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.
- composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase, that is to say that the aqueous phase of the emulsion consists exclusively of this gel.
- the liquid fatty phase includes all fatty substances, generally oils (also called liquid or oily fatty phase) or solid at the image waxes or pasty compounds (also called hardstock).
- a liquid fatty phase is also called the oily phase and comprises at least one oil.
- oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.
- An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.
- the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
- oils of plant origin are preferred.
- non-volatile oil means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
- silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
- fluorinated oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
- hydrocarbon oil means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.
- volatile oil is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( ⁇ ').
- 3 to 300 mmHg in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).
- the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone.
- C 8 -C 18 branched alkanes for example C 8 -C 18 iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane and isodecane.
- isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, esters branched Cs-Cie as neopentanoate iso-hexyl, and mixtures thereof.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, lodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
- linear volatile groups comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12). ) and n-tetradecane (C 14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PA AFOL 12-97 and PA AFOL 34-97, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C 13) derivatives obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
- Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
- Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
- Non-volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
- the non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydro carbonated oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may notably be made of:
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,
- R 1 COOR 2 oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is> 10.
- the esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate
- non-phenylated silicone oils for example caprylyl methycone, and
- phenylated silicone oils for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100; cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.
- a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.
- a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the term "wax” is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. that can go up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.
- the waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.
- waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are especially of natural origin, such as beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax cork or sugar cane, rice, Montan, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or esters of fatty acids such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 ° C. and better still at 45 ° C.
- natural origin such as beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax cork or sugar cane, rice, Montan, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or
- silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkyloxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 ° C whose ester chain comprises at least 10 atoms of carbon; and their mixtures.
- a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. .
- the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,
- a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 99%, better from 1 to 60%, better still from 2 to 30% and better still from 5 to 20% by weight of compound (s) pasty relative to total weight of the composition.
- the liquid fatty phase may other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling agents and / or structuring agents. These compounds may especially be chosen from gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and the
- Trifluoropropyldimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "SG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name “Trefil” by Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
- All the aforementioned fatty substances may be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
- the proportion of fat phase will be chosen according to the direction of the emulsion.
- the emulsion will be an oil-in-water emulsion.
- the fatty phase can thus be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 to 80%, better still from 5 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty phase comprises an oil chosen from alkanes, such as isohexadecane, esters such as isopropyl palmitate.
- ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, triglycerides such as capric / caprylic acid triglyceride and especially non-volatile silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes, such as PDMS 6 is.
- compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, perfumes, thickening agents, gelling agents, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
- cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, polymers, perfumes, thickening agents, gelling agents, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
- polysaccharide any polymer consisting of several monosaccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula:
- water-soluble is meant partially or totally soluble in water to give a gelled or thickened solution at a concentration of 1% of active ingredient in water, after cold or hot application.
- hydrosoluble polysaccharides that may be used in the present invention are chosen in particular starches, gellanes, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, konjac, agar-agar, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. .
- an emulsion according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble polysaccharide, in particular a modified or unmodified starch.
- Unmodified starches include unmodified corn starches (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) such as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS ®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650 ® by Corn Products International. Mention may also be made of unmodified rice starches (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) STARCH) such as the commercial product REMY DR I® sold by the company BENEO-REMY.
- diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate in particular the hydroxypropyl ethers of diamidon phosphate, INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, such as the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C or FARMAL MS 689 ® from AVEBE Stadex; the products sold under the trade names Structure BTS®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).
- Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate such as the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C or FARMAL MS 689 ® from AVEBE Stadex; the products sold under the trade names Structure BTS®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).
- the water-soluble polysaccharide or polysaccharides may represent preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition,
- compositions comprising the emulsion according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
- composition comprising the emulsion according to the invention when it is cosmetic or dermatological, it may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion of liquid to semi-solid consistency.
- the composition is in the form of emulsion, oil-in-water (direct emulsion (O / W)) or water-in-oil (inverse emulsion (W / O)) and more preferably oil-in-water. water.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product for the skin of the face and / or the body, and / or the nails.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a care product, a hygiene product, and / or a sun protection product for the skin of the face and / or of the body, and / or for the nails, of a semi-liquid consistency.
- liquid such as milks, creams more or less creamy, gel-creams, pasta.
- They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or nails in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.
- Devices suitable for the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
- the aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane.
- the composition according to the invention furthermore comprises at least one deodorant active agent and / or at least one antiperspirant active ingredient.
- Deodorant active means any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria
- the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'- ⁇ . ⁇ -2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2 3-Hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 - (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea
- Triclocarban or 3,7,1-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts.
- cetylpyridinium salts polyols such as those of glycerol type, 3-propanediol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL® marketed by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts), 1,2- decanediol (sYmclariol® from Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for example Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM® from Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY® and DERMOSOFT GMC® respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC® from STRAETMANS ) biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine
- zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, ⁇ zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, acetate zinc or mixtures thereof;
- odor absorbers such as zeolites, especially metallic zeolites, the cyclodextrins, the metal oxide silicates such as those described in the application US2005 / 063928; transition metal-modified metal oxide particles as described in US2005084464 and US2005084474, aluminosilicates such as those described in EPI Application 658863, particles of chitosan derivatives such as those described in US6916465;
- salicylic acid and its derivatives such as r-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;
- the deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- antiperspirant active is meant a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture related to human sweat or masking human sweat.
- Antiperspirant active agents include antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.
- aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex complex polyethylene glycol, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex propylene glycol, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum polyethylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
- aluminum and zirconium salts there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
- the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
- ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
- Aluminum sesqui orohydrate is sold in particular under the trade name REACH 301® by SUMMITREHEIS.
- complexes of aluminum and zirconium mention may be made of complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having the name 1NCl: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that marketed under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by the company SUMMITREHEIS.
- the aluminum chlorohydrate sold under the trade names LOCRON S FLA®, LOCRON P and LOCRON L.ZA by the company CLARIANT will be used; under the trade names MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE®, MICRO-DRY 323®, CHLORHYDROL 50, REACH 103, REACH 501 by the company SUMMITREHEIS; under the trade name WESTCHLOR 200® by WESTWOOD; under the trade name ALOXICOLL PF 40® by the company GUILINI CHEMIE; CLURON 50% ® by INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO; CLOROHIDROXIDO ALUMINIO SO A 50% ® by the company FINQUIMICA.
- expanded perlite particles such as those obtained by the expansion method described in US Patent 5,002,698.
- the perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition:
- the perlite particles used will be crushed; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 ⁇ m and preferably from 0.5 to 40 ⁇ m.
- EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
- the perlite particles used have an uncapped bulk density at 25 ° C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.
- the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a WET POINT water absorption capacity ranging from 200 to 1500% and preferably from 250 to 800%.
- the and Point is the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from that of oil application applied to solvents. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point respectively having the following definition:
- WET POINT mass expressed in grams per 100g of product corresponding to obtaining a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.
- FLOW POINT mass expressed in grams per 100g of product from which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This results in obtaining a more or less homogeneous mixture flowing on the glass plate.
- the Wet Point and the Flow point are measured according to the following protocol:
- the glass plate is deposited on the balance and 1 g of pearlite particles is weighed.
- the beaker containing the solvent and the sample cup are placed on the scale.
- the solvent is gradually added to the powder by mixing the mixture regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula
- the expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names OPTIMAT 1430 OR OPTIMAT 2550 by the company WORLD MINERALS will be used.
- the antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of 0.001 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably in a proportion of 0.5 to 25% by weight.
- a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention is prepared according to the technology described in Example 1 of application FR 2 977 580 of page 21 line 26 to page 23 line 20.
- the formation of the hydrogel was carried out without the freeze-drying step (from page 21 line 26 to page 22 line 29 of document FR 2 977-580).
- the X-ray diffractogram analysis was carried out using the equipment and method used for the X-ray diffraction analyzes which are detailed in the application FR 2 977 580.
- compositions according to the invention illustrated in the following examples comprise a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention as obtained in this example 1.
- compositions according to the invention 2.1.1
- different types of components have been used in the fatty phase.
- Emulsions 1 to 5 were prepared according to the following protocol: 1) The synthetic phyllosilicate gel of molecular formula Mg 3 Si 4 O 10 (OH) 2 obtained according to Example 1 and a possible gelling agent, with stirring, were dispersed in water. Rayneri;
- composition Composition Composition
- compositions 1 to 5 are stable and homogeneous.
- compositions 6, 7 and 8 according to the invention are stable and homogeneous.
- compositions 6, 7 and 8 were prepared under the same conditions as previously in Example 2.1.1.
- compositions 6, 7 and 8 are stable and homogeneous. 2.1.3 In the composition 9 according to the invention, the aluminum chlorohydrate was used
- Composition 9 was prepared under the same conditions as previously in Example 2.1.1.
- % ai * percentage by weight of active ingredients of synthetic phyllosilicate particles in water
- Composition 9 is stable and homogeneous.
- compositions 10, 11 and 12 were prepared under the same conditions as previously in Example 2.1.1. Ingredients / name INCI Composition 10 Composition 11 Composition 12
- compositions 10, 11 and 12 are stable and homogeneous. 2.1.5
- a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention is used in the form of a powder.
- Composition 13 is stable and homogeneous at 20-25 ° C after two months.
- Comparative Compositions 14 and 15 are stable and homogeneous at 20-25 ° C after two months.
- compositions 14 and 15 apart from the invention are comparative compositions comprising respectively as a powder a natural talc or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA).
- compositions 14 and 15 comprising natural talc or PMMA are destabilized after 24 hours at 20-25 ° C.
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US15/529,401 US20170326040A1 (en) | 2014-11-24 | 2015-11-24 | Pickering-type emulsion comprising a synthetic phyllosilicate |
EP15798461.8A EP3223776A1 (fr) | 2014-11-24 | 2015-11-24 | Emulsion de type pickering comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique |
BR112017010836A BR112017010836A2 (pt) | 2014-11-24 | 2015-11-24 | emulsão pickering, particularmente uma emulsão cosmética, uso de um filossilicato sintético com fórmula molecular mg3si4o10(oh)2, processo para preparar uma emulsão e de tratamento cosmético |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1461341A FR3028754B1 (fr) | 2014-11-24 | 2014-11-24 | Emulsion de type pickering comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique |
FR1461341 | 2014-11-24 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2016083389A1 true WO2016083389A1 (fr) | 2016-06-02 |
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Family Applications (1)
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PCT/EP2015/077525 WO2016083389A1 (fr) | 2014-11-24 | 2015-11-24 | Emulsion de type pickering comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20170326040A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3223776A1 (fr) |
BR (1) | BR112017010836A2 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3028754B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2016083389A1 (fr) |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2018122187A1 (fr) * | 2016-12-27 | 2018-07-05 | L'oreal | Émulsion de pickering à effet sensoriel amélioré |
CN108752603A (zh) * | 2018-06-01 | 2018-11-06 | 华南理工大学 | 一种淀粉基Pickering乳液凝胶的制备方法 |
FR3082733A1 (fr) * | 2018-06-25 | 2019-12-27 | Imertech | Emulsions de type pickering |
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- 2014-11-24 FR FR1461341A patent/FR3028754B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
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- 2015-11-24 EP EP15798461.8A patent/EP3223776A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2015-11-24 US US15/529,401 patent/US20170326040A1/en not_active Abandoned
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2018122187A1 (fr) * | 2016-12-27 | 2018-07-05 | L'oreal | Émulsion de pickering à effet sensoriel amélioré |
CN108752603A (zh) * | 2018-06-01 | 2018-11-06 | 华南理工大学 | 一种淀粉基Pickering乳液凝胶的制备方法 |
FR3082733A1 (fr) * | 2018-06-25 | 2019-12-27 | Imertech | Emulsions de type pickering |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR3028754A1 (fr) | 2016-05-27 |
EP3223776A1 (fr) | 2017-10-04 |
BR112017010836A2 (pt) | 2017-12-26 |
FR3028754B1 (fr) | 2018-03-30 |
US20170326040A1 (en) | 2017-11-16 |
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