WO2015137647A1 - Composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015137647A1
WO2015137647A1 PCT/KR2015/001852 KR2015001852W WO2015137647A1 WO 2015137647 A1 WO2015137647 A1 WO 2015137647A1 KR 2015001852 W KR2015001852 W KR 2015001852W WO 2015137647 A1 WO2015137647 A1 WO 2015137647A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
emulsifier
cosmetic composition
composition
oil
weight
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Application number
PCT/KR2015/001852
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
홍우진
김미진
조진훈
김영선
Original Assignee
코웨이(주)
제주알로에영농조합법인
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by 코웨이(주), 제주알로에영농조합법인 filed Critical 코웨이(주)
Priority to CN201580012802.7A priority Critical patent/CN106102705A/zh
Publication of WO2015137647A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015137647A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an emulsifier-free emulsifying cosmetic composition that can maintain the emulsification stability even at the same time without containing an emulsifier.
  • Cosmetics are used as a means to protect, recover and maintain skin from the external environment. In addition, it has the function of replenishing the moisture and oil of skin lost by daily washing and delaying skin aging.
  • Emulsification used to produce a cosmetic having such a variety of functions do not agglomerate the aqueous liquid phase and the oil phase liquid particles, and requires an emulsifier to evenly disperse.
  • the emulsifier is a molecule having a hydrophilic portion and a lipophilic portion at the same time, when contained in the emulsification, serves to lower the interfacial tension between the water phase and the liquid phase. As a result, dispersion is well performed, and the emulsion stability is increased.
  • the added synthetic emulsifier causes skin irritation or allergy.
  • This emulsifier having an amphiphilic structure tends to solubilize the skin lipids to form micelles, which leads to damage of the lipids of the skin and weakening of the barrier, causing skin irritation and allergies.
  • Korean Patent No. 10-0912242 discloses the use of lecithin as a natural emulsifier, which has excellent emulsification stability and has an effect of preventing skin irritation and allergy caused by using an existing synthetic emulsifier.
  • the lecithin which is a natural component, has excellent skin affinity, when contained as an emulsifier in a cosmetic composition, instability, discoloration, and discoloration at high temperatures occur, and there is a problem of being an expensive raw material.
  • the present inventors have made various efforts to prepare a cosmetic composition that maintains emulsion stability without containing a conventional synthetic or natural emulsifier.
  • dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine dietary fiber are used as an active ingredient without an emulsifier.
  • the present invention was completed by confirming that the emulsion stability was maintained.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide an emulsifier-free emulsifying cosmetic composition which can have an effect of improving skin while maintaining emulsification stability even without containing an emulsifier.
  • the present invention provides an emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition containing dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine dietary fiber as an active ingredient.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention can maintain the emulsification stability and at the same time have a skin improvement effect, even without containing an emulsifier, it is possible to secure a high value as a cosmetic.
  • the present invention provides an emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition capable of maintaining emulsion stability even without containing a synthetic or natural emulsifier.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine dietary fiber as active ingredients, thereby maintaining emulsion stability.
  • Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline is manufactured by fusion of plant-derived hydroxyproline (Hydroxyproline) with fatty acid (palmitic acid). , Emulsion stability is maintained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains dipalmitoylhydroxyproline as an active ingredient, it is possible to prepare a cosmetic composition having excellent emulsion stability without containing a conventional synthetic and natural emulsifier.
  • dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is characterized by producing amino acids.
  • the amino acid produced here has the effect of improving the moisturizing ability of the skin, improving skin defects and reducing wrinkles and improving existing wrinkles due to lipophilic properties.
  • the dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is preferably contained in an amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight in the total emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention. If the content of dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is less than 0.05% by weight, the effect of emulsification stability and skin improvement cannot be expected, and even if the content exceeds 5% by weight, there is no significant effect improvement and the stability of the formulation is deteriorated. Because it occurs.
  • Citrus Aurantium Sinensis (Orange) Fiber refers to dietary fiber obtained from the pulp of the tangerine tree.
  • the tangerine fiber serves to form a fine network in the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • emulsified particles can be stably formed, and the formed emulsified particles are stably maintained to form a cosmetic composition having emulsification stability.
  • Tangerine dietary fiber according to the present invention is preferably contained in 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition weight. This is because when the content is less than 0.1% by weight, the effect can not be expected, even if the content exceeds 3% by weight because there is no significant improvement in effect economic efficiency.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention simultaneously contains dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine membrane fiber as an active ingredient, thereby stably forming emulsified particles and stably maintaining the formed emulsified particles. Therefore, it becomes possible to manufacture an emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition that is maintained in the long-term emulsion stability.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention to satisfy the total composition 100% by weight
  • It consists of an oil phase containing 10-30% by weight of oil and 1-5% by weight of dipalmitoylhydroxyproline.
  • the polyol is glycerin, erythritol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerol, propanediol, malitol glycerin, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, isoprene glycol, xylitol, polyethylene
  • One kind selected from the group consisting of glycol, isoprene glycol, xylitol and combinations thereof is possible.
  • the water is purified water and used as the remainder to satisfy 100% by weight of the total emulsion-free emulsion cosmetic composition.
  • the oil in the oil phase is not limited to any one of the present invention, one selected from the group consisting of vegetable oil, synthetic ester oil, silicone oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, ceramide, C10 ⁇ C40 fatty alcohol and combinations thereof.
  • Vegetable oils Dicaprylic carbonate, squalane, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, tocopheryl acetate, trioctanoin, C12-15 alkylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, tricapryline, octyldodecyl stearoyl Stearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyldimethicone, caprylic.caprictriglyceride, isotridecylisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2triisostearate, diisostearyl maleate, dipentaeryth Synthetic esters such as light patty acid ester, cetyl eth
  • the amount of the oil is preferably used in 10 to 30% by weight in the total emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition. This is because when the content of the oil is less than 10% by weight can not be prepared a stable formulation, when the content exceeds 30% by weight is a problem that the dispersion stability is lowered.
  • additives such as water-soluble / soluble physiologically active ingredients, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, fatty acids, antioxidants, sunscreens, pigments, dyes, flavorings, etc., as known in the art may be optionally added.
  • the type and content thereof may be appropriately selected by those skilled in the art.
  • moisturizing agent examples include glycogen, chondroitin, amino acids, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, gyroglucan, quince seed, carrageenan, pectin, mannan, cedlan, galactan, delmantan sulfate, keratan sulfate , Mucoitin sulfate, keratosulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, keratosulfate, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, caronimic acid, hyaluronic acid, herapan sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, collagen, mucopolysaccharide, chondroitin sulfate Phosphorus water-soluble high molecular material; Silicones which are dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylsiloxane; Culture supernatants which are lactic acid bacteria and bifidus bacteria; And one selected
  • the thickener is not limited in the present invention, but is not limited to sodium acrylate copolymer, carbomer, crosslinked or uncrosslinked acrylic acid polymer, in particular polyacrylic acid crosslinked with a polyfunctional base, cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose , Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose, cetearyl alcohol, mixture of oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol containing 33 moles of ethylene oxide, guar gum, xanthan gum and combinations thereof It includes one selected from the group consisting of.
  • the manufacturing method of the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition which concerns on this invention is not limited, A conventionally used emulsification method can be used.
  • aqueous phase comprising a polyol, tangerine fiber and water
  • Cooling step to prepare an emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition.
  • an aqueous phase including a polyol, tangerine dietary fiber, and water is prepared.
  • the dissolution is carried out in a vacuum emulsification tank capable of temperature control and stirring by a conventional method and is heated at 50 ⁇ 80 °C, preferably 60 ⁇ 75 °C so that other components can be sufficiently dissolved in water.
  • oil and dipalmitoylhydroxyproline are mixed to prepare an oil phase part.
  • the oil phase is stirred as necessary, or heated at 50 ⁇ 80 °C, preferably 65 ⁇ 75 °C as the above water phase is carried out so that the other components are sufficiently dissolved in the oil.
  • the oil phase part is added to the water phase part and mixed. This is carried out in a vacuum emulsifying tank for 3 to 10 minutes at a speed of 2000 to 4000 rpm, preferably 3000 rpm using a homo mixer.
  • composition is cooled to 20 to 40 ° C. to prepare an emulsion formulation to prepare an emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition prepared by performing such a process may have high stability at high temperature and room temperature even without containing a synthetic or natural emulsifier.
  • dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine fiber containing the active ingredient in the present invention not only act as an emulsifier, but also have an effect on skin improvement such as skin barrier improvement, moisturizing ability, wrinkle improvement, etc. due to its own skin-like substrate. Grant.
  • emulsification system does not contain any emulsifiers to prevent skin irritation and allergic problems caused by the use of emulsifiers, as well as dipalmitoylhydroxyproline and tangerine dietary fiber as an active ingredient, By having the skin improvement effect at the same time, it is possible to secure a high value as a cosmetic.
  • the emulsifier-free emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in an emulsion formulation and may be formulated as a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, lotion, cream, milk, balm, lotion, essence, cleansing, oil, foundation, and the like. Can be.
  • it may be used as a cosmetic composition selected from the base cosmetic composition selected from the softening lotion, nutrient lotion, lotion, cream, balm, pack, gel, patch, lipstick, makeup base or foundation.
  • compositions of each formulation may contain a variety of bases and additives necessary for the formulation of the formulation and are suitable, and extender pigments, silicone polymers, fragrances, preservatives, fungicides, oxidative stability, so long as the effect is not impaired.
  • Topical, Organic Solvents, Ionic or Nonionic Thickeners, Softeners, Antioxidants, Free Radical Breakers, Opaque Agents, Stabilizers, Silicones, Emollients, Alpha-Hydronic Acids, Defoamers, Moisturizers, Vitamins, Insect Repellents It can be prepared including known compounds such as perfumes, preservatives, anti-inflammatory agents, substance P antagonists, fillers, polymerizers, propellants, basicizing or acidifying agents or coloring agents.
  • the aqueous phase and the oil phase were heated to 65-75 ° C., dissolved, and mixed with the composition shown in Table 1 below, followed by stirring after cooling at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes using a general homo mixer.
  • the composition of Comparative Example 2 according to the present invention was stable under each condition, but it can be confirmed that a slight separation at a high temperature (45 °C), in the composition of Example 1 low temperature and high temperature It turns out that it has stability even under the conditions of.
  • the composition of Comparative Example 1 can be seen that the emulsion is not stabilized and the aqueous phase and the oil phase is separated immediately after preparation.
  • the Dermatop-blue (EO tech, france) is a device used to measure the skin wrinkles, the equipment for measuring fine skin irregularities projected a fine fringe fraction (Miniature Fraction fraction) made by the Miniature Projections Technique (MPT) on the skin, The projected image was displayed as 3D profile information and analyzed by Dermatop software (EO tech, France) through the filtering process.
  • the overlay function was used to make the same evaluation of the sample application site by time point so that it could be identical to the existing measurement site, and the skin wrinkle parameter used in the analysis was Ra Was used, and the measurement results are shown in Table 3 and FIGS. 1 (a) and 1 (b).
  • Figure 1 (a) is a photograph before applying the composition of Example 1 according to the invention
  • Figure 1 (b) is a photograph measured after applying the composition of Example 1 according to the present invention for 4 weeks. As shown in Figure 1 (a) and Figure 1 (b), it can be seen that the wrinkles are improved in the case of the skin applied to the Example 1 composition of the present invention for 4 weeks.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant et, plus spécifiquement, une composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant comprenant de la dipalmitoylhydroxyproline et de la fibre de Citrus aurantium sinensis comme ingrédients actifs. La composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant résout les problèmes de provocation d'une irritation cutanée et de déclenchement d'une allergie car la composition ne contient pas d'émulsifiant, contrairement à un système d'émulsion général, et peut garantir une qualité élevée du produit cosmétique car la composition maintient la stabilité de l'émulsion et présente en même temps un effet d'amélioration de la peau, même si la composition ne contient pas d'émulsifiant.
PCT/KR2015/001852 2014-03-14 2015-02-26 Composition cosmétique en émulsion sans émulsifiant WO2015137647A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201580012802.7A CN106102705A (zh) 2014-03-14 2015-02-26 不含乳化剂的乳化化妆品组合物

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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KR1020140029957A KR20150107288A (ko) 2014-03-14 2014-03-14 유화제를 함유하지 않는 유화 화장료 조성물
KR10-2014-0029957 2014-03-14

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WO2015137647A1 true WO2015137647A1 (fr) 2015-09-17

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10287366B2 (en) 2017-02-15 2019-05-14 Cp Kelco Aps Methods of producing activated pectin-containing biomass compositions

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102085428B1 (ko) * 2018-06-27 2020-03-05 김태익 저자극 수중유 유화형 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조방법
KR102635298B1 (ko) * 2018-10-31 2024-02-13 (주)아모레퍼시픽 유화 안정성이 우수한 수중유형 조성물
JP2022519127A (ja) * 2019-02-01 2022-03-18 カーギル インコーポレイテッド 柑橘類繊維及びスクレログルカン組成物、並びにパーソナルケア用途におけるそれらの使用

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US20040208903A1 (en) * 2003-04-17 2004-10-21 Robinson Larry Richard Compositions and methods for regulating mammalian keratinous tissue
KR100544159B1 (ko) * 2004-07-14 2006-01-24 센양 뉴라이프 인더스트리알 코 엘티디 아스코르빌 테트라이소팔미테이트와 디팔미토일하이드록시프롤린을 함유한 나노 에멀젼 및 이를함유하는 화장료 조성물
KR20090022599A (ko) * 2007-08-31 2009-03-04 (주)아모레퍼시픽 디팔미토일 하이드록시프롤린을 함유하는 튼살 완화용화장료 조성물
US20130122125A1 (en) * 2011-11-16 2013-05-16 Alyson Galderisi Water-Free, Emulsifier-Free, and Preservative-Free Vehicle for Active Ingredients

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KR100544159B1 (ko) * 2004-07-14 2006-01-24 센양 뉴라이프 인더스트리알 코 엘티디 아스코르빌 테트라이소팔미테이트와 디팔미토일하이드록시프롤린을 함유한 나노 에멀젼 및 이를함유하는 화장료 조성물
KR20090022599A (ko) * 2007-08-31 2009-03-04 (주)아모레퍼시픽 디팔미토일 하이드록시프롤린을 함유하는 튼살 완화용화장료 조성물
US20130122125A1 (en) * 2011-11-16 2013-05-16 Alyson Galderisi Water-Free, Emulsifier-Free, and Preservative-Free Vehicle for Active Ingredients

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10287366B2 (en) 2017-02-15 2019-05-14 Cp Kelco Aps Methods of producing activated pectin-containing biomass compositions
US11008407B2 (en) 2017-02-15 2021-05-18 Cp Kelco Aps Activated pectin-containing biomass compositions and products
US11987650B2 (en) 2017-02-15 2024-05-21 Cp Kelco Aps Activated pectin-containing biomass compositions and products

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CN106102705A (zh) 2016-11-09
KR20150107288A (ko) 2015-09-23

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