WO2015090806A1 - Produit de coloration d'oxydation avec substance de soin naturelle - Google Patents

Produit de coloration d'oxydation avec substance de soin naturelle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015090806A1
WO2015090806A1 PCT/EP2014/074926 EP2014074926W WO2015090806A1 WO 2015090806 A1 WO2015090806 A1 WO 2015090806A1 EP 2014074926 W EP2014074926 W EP 2014074926W WO 2015090806 A1 WO2015090806 A1 WO 2015090806A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
amino
hydroxyethyl
phenylenediamine
oxidation dye
diaminophenoxy
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PCT/EP2014/074926
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Sylvia KERL
Astrid KLEEN-FEHRES
Hartmut Manneck
Stefan Hoepfner
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015090806A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015090806A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hair-sparing dye for oxidative hair coloring, which contains a natural conditioner and a method for oxidative hair dyeing, wherein the keratinic fibers are conditioned with a natural care substance.
  • Oxidative colorants usually consist of two components: the one component usually contains oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the hair of the first components shortly before application, or of atmospheric oxygen or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, located in the para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • Conventional oxidative colorants have a more alkaline pH to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during the oxidative use, which is well above 9.0 and is adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • ammonia allows good staining results, but also reveals disadvantages for the user due to its odor and irritation potential for skin and mucous membranes.
  • the alkalizing agent leads to a swelling of the keratinic fiber, whereby the dye precursors can penetrate well into the hair.
  • the alkaline pH also increases the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure.
  • Silicones are known for their excellent hair conditioning properties and are therefore often incorporated into oxidative dyes.
  • silicones have the disadvantage that they have to be synthesized with high energy expenditure and in some cases are very persistent in the environment. In certain consumer groups, therefore, there is a desire for silicone-free cosmetic products.
  • the present application was therefore based on a further object to provide a good hair conditioning agent that provides excellent conditioning properties without the use of silicones, ideally a natural as possible care product should be used.
  • a colorant containing kaolin can improve the sensory properties of the hair after an oxidative dyeing treatment. Furthermore, particularly good dyeing results, in particular dyeings with enhanced color intensity, are achieved with the colorants according to the invention.
  • the present invention is in a first embodiment, a Oxidationsfärbe- for oxidative color change keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor developer type and at least one Oxidungsfarb- stoffvortechnik coupler type, and kaolin.
  • Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1, 0 to 8% by weight, most preferably 2 to 6% by weight.
  • % Kaolin in each case based on the total weight of the Oxidationsfärbe- included.
  • the oxidation dye according to the invention can be formulated as a water-based emulsion, as a spray, as a cream, gel, lotion, paste or shampoo.
  • the pH of the preferred oxidation colorant according to the invention is in the range of 7 and 11, in particular in the range of 8 and 10.5.
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH can be selected from the group of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal phosphates and alkali metal hydrogenphosphates.
  • the alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.
  • the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, particularly preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent according to the invention.
  • the alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-amino-ethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol , 1- Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • the oxidation dye according to the invention contains, based on its weight, at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 0.1 to 80 wt.%, Preferably 0.2 to 60 wt.%, Particularly preferably 1 to 30 wt. most preferably 2 - 10 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic oil is liquid under normal conditions (20 ° C, 1013.25 mbar); essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not counted among the cosmetic oils. Under normal conditions liquid cosmetic oils are immiscible with water.
  • Essential oils according to the invention are understood to mean mixtures of volatile components which are prepared by steam distillation from vegetable raw materials, such as. B. citrus oils. As far as in the present application of a cosmetic oil is mentioned, this is always a cosmetic oil that is not a fragrance and no essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions and immiscible with water.
  • a fragrance in the sense of the present application is in accordance with the expert definition as it can be found in the R ⁇ MPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007. Thereafter, a fragrance is a chemical compound with odor and / or taste that excites the hair cell receptors of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus).
  • the physical and chemical properties required for this purpose are a low molecular weight of at most 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.
  • fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have a smell and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.
  • preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, CI8-C3o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, for example, under the designation Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase ® 2004G from Nestle are available, further selected from C8-Ci6-isoparaffins, in particular isododecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (obtainable,. B . under the trade name Cetiol ® S from BASF).
  • paraffin oils particularly preferably of paraffin oils, CI8-C3o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and poly
  • Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22-alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB, and Benzoeklatoneoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® BOD.
  • benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN
  • benzoic acid isostearyl z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB
  • ethylhexyl benzoate z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB
  • Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated.
  • the branched alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction.
  • Preferred oils are alcohol 2-hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16) 2-octyldodecanol (Eutanol ® G), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
  • More preferred cosmetic oils are chosen from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (2-hexyl decanol and 2-hexyl decyl laurate).
  • Particularly preferred may be the use of natural oils, eg, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil,
  • Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n- butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
  • Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated.
  • These include 2-hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868).
  • cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric Cs-22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric Cs-22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C3-22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, for.
  • glycerol glycerol
  • butanol butanediol
  • myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol which may be esterified if desired, for.
  • PPG-14 butyl ether Ucon Fluid ® AP
  • PPG-9-butyl ether Breox B25 ®
  • PPG-10 butanediol Macol ® 57
  • PPG-15 stearyl ether Arlamol ® E
  • Gly - reth-7-diisononanoate As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ® AP), PPG-9-but
  • compositions according to the invention are selected from the C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 -hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
  • esters based on linear Cw / is alkanols, eg. B.
  • Ci2-Ci5-alkyl lactate, and of branched in 2-position Ci2 / i3-alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ® ESI, Cosmacol ® EMI and Cosmacol® ® EIT.
  • cosmetic oils are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-22-alkanols, C3-22-alkanediols or C3-22-alkanetriols, eg. B. dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC) or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.
  • cosmetic oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12-22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 6 alkanols or with polyfunctional linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkanols.
  • silicone oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils to which z.
  • Dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.
  • Preferred may be volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as.
  • octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning.
  • volatile linear silicone oils in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) and any mixtures of two and three of L2, L3 and / or l_4, preferably mixtures such as those described for.
  • preferred non-volatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. Dow Corning® 190, Dow Corning® 200 fluid having kinematic viscosities (25 ° C) in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt or even 5-10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane having a kinematic viscosity (e.g. 25 ° C) of about 350 cSt.
  • the cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, more preferably from paraffin oils, Ci8-C3o-isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, Cs-Ci6-isoparaffins, and 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22 alkanols; Fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Csso fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols; the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atom
  • oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one surfactant.
  • Surfactants in the sense of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain of 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Most preferably, this C8-C28 alkyl chain is linear.
  • Basic properties of the surfactants and emulsifiers are the oriented absorption at interfaces and the aggregation to micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.
  • Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the surfactant contained is selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferably used nonionic surfactants are selected from with 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated C8-C24 Alkanols containing from 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of C 8 to C 24 ethoxylated carboxylic acids with from 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of from 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 to C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated , in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their
  • the ethoxylated Cs-C24 alkanols have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol are suitable.
  • Particularly preferred are laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth-15, laureth-20, laureth-30, myreth-10, myreth-12, myreth-15, myreth-20, myreth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-12 , Ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12 steareth-15, steareth-20, steareth-30, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-15, oleth-20, oleth- 30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30 and coceth-10, coceth-12, coceth-15, coceth-20 and coceth-30.
  • the ethoxylated Cs-C24 carboxylic acids have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 0 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule Numbers of 10 - 100, preferably 10 - 30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, cetylic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic , Erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • Adducts of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.
  • Preferred with 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80.
  • Cs-C22-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides preference is given to using Cs-C22-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides.
  • Cs-C22-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside residue it applies that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol, as also oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization to about 8, preferably 1 - 2, are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ®, containing a glucosidic bond C8-Ci6-alkyl group at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization with 1-2, particularly 1, 2 - 1, 4, is located.
  • Particularly preferred Cs - C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
  • the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body which have a water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 8 to 24 C atoms in the molecule.
  • a water-solubilizing anionic group for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
  • a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 8 to 24 C atoms in the molecule.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanol- ammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C- Atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acylisethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl sulfates and C 8 --atom
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl sulfates, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates and C 8 -C 20 -ethercarboxylic acids having 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Particularly preferred is sodium cetearyl sulfate.
  • the total amount of at least one surfactant in the oxidation colorants of the invention is preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight and more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the oxidation colorant ,
  • the oxidation colorant according to the invention particularly preferably contains a total of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight and more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the oxidation colorant, of a mixture nonionic and anionic surfactants.
  • oxidation colorants are characterized in that they contain at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol and mixtures of these alkanols.
  • Alkanol mixtures which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids.
  • the total amount of at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms is preferably 0 to 1 to 20 wt.%, Preferably 0.5 to 15 wt.% And particularly preferably 3 to 10 wt. each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
  • the oxidation colorant of the present invention contains at least a developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides or hydrobromides or of the sulfates.
  • Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine , N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole) 1 -yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 -hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4 -Amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and mixtures of these compounds and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Extraordinary preference is given to 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically tolerated salts.
  • the developer components are preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.6 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant , contain.
  • the developer components are preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the Oxidation colorant included.
  • ready-to-use colorant is understood as meaning the mixture of all oxidation dye precursors and all oxidizing agents, if appropriate in combination with a suitable cosmetic carrier, for example a cream base, and optionally in combination with at least one substantive dye.
  • Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups.
  • the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group having at least one hydroxy group
  • Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • the at least one coupler component is preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 20 wt.
  • % more preferably 0.2-10 wt%, and most preferably 0.6-5 wt%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant of the invention.
  • oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are particularly preferred, wherein the amine compounds and the nitrogen heterocycles may also be present in the form of their physiologically tolerated salts:
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are the combinations 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol and p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol.
  • the combination is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol.
  • the oxidation colorants of the invention may additionally contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that apply directly to the hair and do not need an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the oxidation colorants of the invention may contain other ingredients. Preference is given here to the use of polyhydric alcohols which have moisturizing properties.
  • glycerin is preferred.
  • mixtures of two of the three polyhydric alcohols or all three polyhydric alcohols may be preferred.
  • a mixture of glycerol, sorbitol and 1,2-propylene glycol in a weight ratio of 1: (0.5-1): (0.1-0.5) has proved particularly advantageous.
  • polyhydric alcohols are those having at least 2 OH groups, preferably mannitol, xylitol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • these compounds those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
  • the oxidation colorant according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (B) to form a ready-to-use agent containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • Preferred oxidizing agents are selected from peroxo compounds, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide selected from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate) and dipotassium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate) and mixtures of these oxidants.
  • diammonium peroxodisulfate also referred to as ammoni
  • Oxidants which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.
  • concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; Preferably, 6-12% by weight solutions in water are used.
  • Oxidation dyes which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used for their preparation, based on their weight, is 1 to 24% by weight, preferably 4 to 10% by weight, more preferably 3 to 6% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2).
  • the colorant according to the invention which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and, if appropriate, is usually just before application to the hair or more direct dyes, mixed with an aqueous oxidizer-containing composition (B) to the ready-to-use agent and then applied to the hair.
  • the inventive colorant (A) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) are coordinated so that at a mixing ratio of 1 to 1, based on parts by weight, in the hair dye an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5 to 12 wt .-% , preferably 2-10 wt .-%, more preferably 3-6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) based on the weight of the oxidation colorant is present.
  • peroxide For a coloring that requires a strong lightening of very dark hair, the use of hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to organic or inorganic compounds is often not sufficient. In these cases, a combination of hydrogen peroxide and Peroxodisulfatsalzen (persulfate salts) is usually used.
  • Preferred persulfate salts are ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one persulfate salt is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the weight of the oxidation of the invention.
  • a further subject of the present application is a kit for dyeing and / or whitening keratinic fibers, comprising an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 and an oxidizing agent preparation.
  • a further subject matter of the present application is a process for dyeing and / or whitening keratinic fibers, which comprises the following process steps:
  • compositions according to the invention (A): Dye creams (amounts in% by weight):
  • the hair colored with the composition according to the invention showed a better grip and a better combability than the hair dyed with the non-agent according to the invention.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit de coloration d'oxydation permettant de modifier la couleur des fibres kératiniques, notamment des cheveux humains, par oxydation, ledit produit contenant dans un excipient cosmétiquement approprié au moins un agent alcalinisant, au moins un précurseur de colorant d'oxydation du type développeur et au moins un précurseur de colorant d'oxydation du type coupleur, ainsi que du kaolin.
PCT/EP2014/074926 2013-12-19 2014-11-18 Produit de coloration d'oxydation avec substance de soin naturelle WO2015090806A1 (fr)

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DE102013226698.7 2013-12-19
DE102013226698.7A DE102013226698A1 (de) 2013-12-19 2013-12-19 Oxidationsfärbemittel mit natürlichem Pflegestoff

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DE102018215330A1 (de) * 2018-09-10 2020-03-12 Beiersdorf Ag Schäumende Reinigungszubereitung auf Basis einer Emulsion

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2065177A (en) * 1979-12-13 1981-06-24 Oreal Hair-dyeing process involving protection of the scalp
EP0257399A2 (fr) * 1986-08-13 1988-03-02 Beratungslabor für die kosmetische und pharmazeutische Industrie Dipl.-Ing. Karlheinz Schrader Composition pour teinture des cheveux
DE19756454C1 (de) 1997-12-18 1999-06-17 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Glycerincarbonat
DE102005062830A1 (de) * 2005-12-27 2007-01-04 Henkel Kgaa Oxidationsfärbemittel zur Färbung keratinhaltiger Fasern
WO2011086285A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-07-21 L'oreal Composition pour colorer les fibres keratiniques comprenant au moins un derive d'orthodiphenol, un agent oxydant, une argile et un agent alcalinisant

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2065177A (en) * 1979-12-13 1981-06-24 Oreal Hair-dyeing process involving protection of the scalp
EP0257399A2 (fr) * 1986-08-13 1988-03-02 Beratungslabor für die kosmetische und pharmazeutische Industrie Dipl.-Ing. Karlheinz Schrader Composition pour teinture des cheveux
DE19756454C1 (de) 1997-12-18 1999-06-17 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Glycerincarbonat
DE102005062830A1 (de) * 2005-12-27 2007-01-04 Henkel Kgaa Oxidationsfärbemittel zur Färbung keratinhaltiger Fasern
WO2011086285A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-07-21 L'oreal Composition pour colorer les fibres keratiniques comprenant au moins un derive d'orthodiphenol, un agent oxydant, une argile et un agent alcalinisant

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; August 2005 (2005-08-01), L`OREAL: "Terra Colour Hair Dyes", XP002736011, Database accession no. 390176 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; November 2005 (2005-11-01), L`OREAL: "Multi-Tone Hair Colorant", XP002736010, Database accession no. 410130 *
RÖMPP CHEMIE LEXIKON, December 2007 (2007-12-01)

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