WO2016139121A1 - Composition de teinture d'oxydation contenant de la méthionyl-méthionine et une diamine aromatique - Google Patents

Composition de teinture d'oxydation contenant de la méthionyl-méthionine et une diamine aromatique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016139121A1
WO2016139121A1 PCT/EP2016/053968 EP2016053968W WO2016139121A1 WO 2016139121 A1 WO2016139121 A1 WO 2016139121A1 EP 2016053968 W EP2016053968 W EP 2016053968W WO 2016139121 A1 WO2016139121 A1 WO 2016139121A1
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Prior art keywords
phenylenediamine
oxidation dye
oxidation
amino
toluenediamine
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PCT/EP2016/053968
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German (de)
English (en)
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Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2016139121A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016139121A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/411Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/415Aminophenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hair-sparing coloring agent for oxidative hair coloring, which contains a dipeptide, and to a method for oxidative hair coloring, in which keratinic fibers are conditioned with a dipeptide.
  • Oxidative dyes usually contain
  • Oxidation dye precursors so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the hair of the first components shortly before application, or of atmospheric oxygen or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide
  • developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, located in the para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • oxidative colorants have to stabilize the oxidation dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during the oxidative use of a more alkaline pH, which is well above 9.0 and is adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • ammonia allows good dyeing results, but discloses due to its odor and
  • Alkalizing agent leads to swelling of the keratinic fiber, causing the
  • Dye precursors can penetrate the hair well.
  • the alkaline pH also increases the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure.
  • particular efforts have been directed to the development of powerful oxidative colorants containing one or more conditioners that can balance the damage to the hair structure by the oxidizer and, for example, improve the feel or combability of the hair after dyeing.
  • an oxidation colorant containing methionylmethionine and a selected developer component can improve the sensory properties of the hair after an oxidative dyeing treatment. Furthermore, particularly good dyeing results, in particular dyeings with enhanced color intensity, are achieved with the colorants.
  • R H, CH 3 , CH 2 OCH 3 or CH 2 CH 2 OH
  • Hair which is dyed with the oxidation stains described herein has reduced hair damage in the form of increased melting temperature and increased tensile strength. In addition, the wet and dry combability is improved.
  • the oxidation colorant contains an alkalizing agent as the first obligatory ingredient. Oxidative dyeing processes on keratin fibers usually take place in an alkaline medium. However, in order to preserve the keratin fibers as well as the skin as much as possible, the setting of too high a pH value is not desirable. Therefore, it is preferred that the pH of the preferred oxidation colorant is in the range of 7 to 11, more preferably in the range of 8 to 10.5. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used to adjust the preferred pH can be selected from the group ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines,
  • Alkali metal metasilicates, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.
  • the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine and D, L-lysine. Particular preference is given to using L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine as an alkalizing agent in the context of the invention.
  • alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the
  • the oxidation colorant contains an alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent. It is highly preferred that the oxidation colorant be
  • Alkalizing agent monoethanolamine contains.
  • the oxidation colorant contains at least one specific developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • oxidation dye precursors Due to their reaction behavior, oxidation dye precursors will be classified into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components.
  • Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides or hydrobromides or of the sulfates.
  • the oxidation colorant contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor of the general formula (I)
  • R H, CH 3 , CH 2 OCH 3 or CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, the physiologically acceptable salts thereof Compounds, mixtures of these developer components, mixtures of these
  • the developer component most preferably selected is a compound in which R in the general formula (I) is CH 3: p-toluenediamine.
  • the developer component is preferably in a total amount of 0.01 - 20 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 - 10 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.6 - 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant , contain.
  • Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups.
  • the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Preferred agents are characterized in that the at least one
  • Coupler-type oxidation dye precursor selected from one of the following classes:
  • Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group having at least one hydroxy group
  • Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • the at least one coupler component is preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, and most preferably 0.6 to 5% by weight, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
  • Oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are particularly preferred, it also being possible for the amine compounds and the nitrogen heterocycles to be present in the form of their physiologically tolerated salts:
  • 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol is particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred is the combination of p-toluenediamine and 3-aminophenol.
  • the oxidation colorant contains p-toluenediamine and 3-aminophenol and an alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent.
  • the oxidation colorant contains p-toluenediamine and 3-aminophenol, as well as monoethanolamine
  • the oxidation colorants contain as the fourth essential ingredient methionylmethionine.
  • Methionylmethionine is the dipeptide of methionine and has the following structure:
  • DD / LL / LD / DL mixture used as DL / LD mixture or DD / LL mixture.
  • a stereoisomeric dipeptide alone or in combination with one or two further stereoisomers is conceivable. If only one stereoisomeric dipeptide is used, preference is given to choosing L-methionyl-L-methionine or D-methionyl-D-methionine.
  • the two pairs DD / LL-methionylmethionine and DL / LD-methionylmethionine are diastereomeric and have different physical data.
  • the diastereomeric pair DD / LL at room temperature has a solubility of 21.0 g / l in water, whereas the solubility of the diastereomeric pair DL / LD is 0.4 g / l.
  • These mixtures can be easily in an aqueous phase or an aqueous-surfactant phase of a
  • Preferred oxidation colorants are characterized by having from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine, more preferably from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, based on their weight more preferably 0.1-6.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5-3.0 wt.% of methionylmethionine.
  • the oxidation colorant can be formulated as a water-based emulsion, as a spray, as a cream, gel, lotion, paste or shampoo.
  • the oxidation colorants may additionally contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes,
  • the oxidation colorants may contain other ingredients. Preference is given here to the use of polyhydric alcohols, surfactants and cosmetic oils.
  • oxidation colorants which contain at least one polyhydric alcohol, preferably selected from the group consisting of sorbitol and / or glycerol and / or 1,2-propylene glycol or mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.05-15% by weight, preferably 0, 1 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 15 - 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant included.
  • mixtures of two of the three polyhydric alcohols or all three polyhydric alcohols may be preferred.
  • a mixture of glycerol, sorbitol and 1,2-propylene glycol in a weight ratio of 1: (0.5-1) :( 0, 1-0.5) has proven particularly advantageous.
  • glycerol and 1, 2-propylene glycol are suitable as further polyhydric alcohols such with at least 2 OH groups, preferably mannitol, xylitol, polyethylene glycol,
  • the oxidation colorant contains, based on its weight, at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 0.1 to 80 wt.%, Preferably 0.2 to 60 wt.%, Particularly preferably 1 to 30 wt preferably 2 - 10 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic oil is liquid under normal conditions (20 ° C, 1013.25 mbar); essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not counted among the cosmetic oils. Under normal conditions liquid cosmetic oils are immiscible with water.
  • Preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic
  • Hydrocarbons is available especially preferably of paraffin oils, CI8-C3o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, the ®, for example, under the designation Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase 2004G from Nestle, further selected from C8-Ci6-isoparaffins, in particular isododecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (available, for example under the trade name Cetiol ® S from BASF).
  • paraffin oils CI8-C3o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes
  • the ® for example, under the designation Emery ®
  • cosmetic oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22-alkanols.
  • Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, for example, available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, isostearyl benzoate, for example, available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, Ethylhexylbenzoat, for example, available as
  • compositions with 6-30 are preferred cosmetic oils.
  • the branched alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction.
  • Preferred oils are alcohol 2-hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16) 2-octyldodecanol (Eutanol ® G), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
  • More preferred cosmetic oils are chosen from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (2-hexyldecanol and 2-hexyldecyl).
  • Particularly preferred may be the use of natural oils, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, Almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, Soybean oil, sunflower oil,
  • triglyceride oils in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, for example the commercial products Myritol ® 318, Myritol ® 331 (BASF) or Miglyol ® 812 (Hüls) using unbranched fatty acid residues are preferred, and
  • Glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues Glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.
  • cosmetic oils are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate , Diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
  • diisopropyl adipate di-n-butyl adipate
  • di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate dioctyl adipate
  • dioctyl adipate dieth
  • Further particularly preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.
  • These include 2-hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868).
  • isopropyl myristate isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,
  • 2-ethylhexyl laurate 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate,
  • cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric Cs-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, for example PPG-2-myristyl ether and PPG 3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • Further preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C3-22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, for example PPG -14-butyl ether (Ucon fluid ® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57), PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® e), and Glycereth-7-diisononanoate.
  • PPG -14-butyl ether Ucon fluid ® AP
  • PPG-9-butyl ether Breox B25 ®
  • PPG-10 butanediol Macol ® 57
  • PPG-15 stearyl ether Arlamol ®
  • compositions selected from the C8-C22-Fett.alkoholest.ern monovalent or polyvalent C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of
  • Glycolic acid lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
  • esters on Based on linear Cw / is-alkanols, such as Ci2-Ci5-alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position Ci2 / i3-alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, purchase, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ® ESI, Cosmacol® ® EMI and Cosmacol® ® EIT.
  • Another preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-22 alkanols, C3-22-alkanediols or alkanetriols C3-22-, for example, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC) or glycerol.
  • cosmetic oils which may be preferred are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12-22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 6 alkanols or with polyfunctional linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkanols.
  • silicone oils which include, for example, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane,
  • Octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane Preferred may be volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
  • volatile linear silicone oils in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) and any two-membered and
  • Preferred nonvolatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available, for example, under the name Dow Corning® 190, Dow Corning® 200 fluid with kinematic viscosities (25 ° C) in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt or also 5 - 10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane with a kinematic viscosity (25 ° C) of about 350 cSt.
  • Silicones are known for their excellent hair-conditioning properties and are therefore often incorporated into oxidative colorants.
  • silicones have the disadvantage that they have to be synthesized with high energy expenditure and are sometimes very persistent in the environment. There is therefore a desire in certain consumer groups for silicone-free cosmetic products.
  • the use of silicones can be dispensed with. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidation colorants are free of a silicone.
  • free of a silicone means that the hair treatment compositions contain up to 0.05% by weight of silicone (s), based on the weight of the entire composition.
  • the silicone is not deliberately added silicone, but silicone, which is present as a companion in a raw material used.
  • Preferred oxidation dyes are distinguished by the fact that the at least one cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C 18 -30-isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C 8 -16-isoparaffins, and 1, 3.
  • natural and synthetic hydrocarbons particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C 18 -30-isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C 8 -16-isoparaffins, and 1, 3.
  • di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22 alkanols; Fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Cs so fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols; the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric Cs-22 alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C3-2
  • oxidation dyes contain at least one surfactant.
  • amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain of 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Most preferably, this C8-C28 alkyl chain is linear.
  • surfactants it may be preferable to use a mixture of surfactants to be able to optimally adjust the stability of the oxidation colorants.
  • Preferred oxidation colorants are characterized in that the surfactant contained is selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants used are selected from with 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated Cs-C24 alkanols with 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated Cs-C24 carboxylic acids with 10-100 mol
  • Ethylene oxide per mole with 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids, alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • the ethoxylated Cs-C24 alkanols have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol are suitable.
  • Particularly preferred are laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth-15, laureth-20, laureth-30, myreth-10, myreth-12, myreth-15, myreth-20, myreth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-12 , Ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12 steareth-15, steareth-20, steareth-30, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-15, oleth-20, oleth- 30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30 and coceth-10, coceth-12, coceth-15, coceth-20 and coceth-30.
  • the ethoxylated Cs-C24 carboxylic acids have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 0 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical containing 8-24
  • Carbon atoms and n the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid,
  • Stearic acid isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid,
  • Gadoleic acid Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids with 12-18
  • Carbon atoms such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate. Preferred with 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80.
  • Cs-C22-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides preference is given to using Cs-C22-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides.
  • Cs-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside radical monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products.
  • Cs - C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
  • the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body which have a water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 ° C Atoms, preferably having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule.
  • a water-solubilizing anionic group for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
  • a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 ° C Atoms, preferably having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl sulfates, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates and C8-C20-ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Particularly preferred is sodium cetearyl sulfate.
  • the total amount of at least one surfactant in the oxidation colorants is preferably 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight and particularly preferably 1-10% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
  • the oxidation colorant contains a total of 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation, a mixture of nonionic and anionic surfactants.
  • oxidation colorants are characterized by containing at least one linear saturated alkanol of 12-30 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,
  • Particularly preferred alkanol mixtures are those which are obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids.
  • the total amount of at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is oxidation colorants 0, 1-20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-% and particularly preferably 3-10 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
  • the dyeing agent which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more substantive dyes is usually mixed with the application-ready agent before application to the hair and then applied to the hair.
  • Oxidizing agents are selected from peroxo compounds, preferably selected from
  • Hydrogen peroxide solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide, further selected from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), Disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate) and dipotassium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate) and from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), Disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate) and dipotassium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate) and from diammonium peroxod
  • oxidizing agents are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.
  • concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; Preferably, 6-12% by weight solutions in water are used.
  • Preferred oxidation colorants are characterized in that for their application used oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 1 - 24 wt .-%, preferably 4 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3-6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) contains.
  • the oxidation colorant and the oxidizing agent preparation are coordinated so that at a mixing ratio of 1 to 1, based on parts by weight, the desired initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-hair dye is obtained. But it is just as possible, the oxidation dye and the
  • Persulfate salts are ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one persulfate salt is preferably contained in a total amount of 0, 1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
  • a further subject of the present application is a kit for dyeing and / or whitening keratinic fibers, comprising an oxidation colorant according to the invention and an oxidizing agent preparation.
  • a further subject matter of the present application is a process for dyeing and / or whitening keratinic fibers, which comprises the following process steps:
  • Yet another object of the invention is the use of methionyl methionine in an oxidation colorant for the oxidative color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing at least one in a cosmetically suitable carrier
  • Alkalizing agent at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor of the general form
  • R H, CH 3 , CH 2 OCH 3 or CH 2 CH 2 OH, and at least one
  • Coupler-type oxidation dye precursor for reducing hair damage is Coupler-type oxidation dye precursor for reducing hair damage.
  • Oleic acid 0, 1 0.1
  • Polyquaternium-39 (ex Merquat 3330) 0.05 0.05 0.05
  • Citric Acid 0.002 0.002
  • the hair dyed with the agent (A) -1 showed better grip and combability than the hair dyed with the agent (A) -V.
  • the hair dyed with the agent (A) -1 showed a reduced hair compared with hair dyed with the agent (A) -V
  • Hair damage in the form of an increased melting temperature and an increased contact angle of water droplets on the hair shows that a hydrophobing of the hair surface was achieved.

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Abstract

La présente invention a pour objet une composition de teinture d'oxydation destinée à modifier la couleur des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, par oxydation, ladite composition contenant, dans un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un agent alcalinisant, au moins un précurseur de colorant d'oxydation du type développeur, représenté par la formule générale (I) dans laquelle R = H, CH3, CH2OCH3 ou CH2CH2OH, et au moins un précurseur de colorant d'oxydation du type coupleur, ainsi que de la méthionyl-méthionine.
PCT/EP2016/053968 2015-03-04 2016-02-25 Composition de teinture d'oxydation contenant de la méthionyl-méthionine et une diamine aromatique WO2016139121A1 (fr)

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DE102015203821.1A DE102015203821A1 (de) 2015-03-04 2015-03-04 "Oxidationsfärbemittel mit einem Dipeptid und aromatischem Diamin"
DE102015203821.1 2015-03-04

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1997001323A1 (fr) * 1995-06-26 1997-01-16 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh Agents de coloration capillaires comportant au moins un principe actif traitant
EP2835151A1 (fr) * 2013-08-06 2015-02-11 Evonik Industries AG Stéréo-isomère méthionyl-méthionine et son utilisation en cosmétique
DE102014225221A1 (de) * 2014-12-09 2016-01-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Oxidationsfärbemittel mit einem Dipeptid

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1997001323A1 (fr) * 1995-06-26 1997-01-16 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh Agents de coloration capillaires comportant au moins un principe actif traitant
EP2835151A1 (fr) * 2013-08-06 2015-02-11 Evonik Industries AG Stéréo-isomère méthionyl-méthionine et son utilisation en cosmétique
DE102014225221A1 (de) * 2014-12-09 2016-01-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Oxidationsfärbemittel mit einem Dipeptid

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