WO2014079117A1 - 一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法 - Google Patents

一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014079117A1
WO2014079117A1 PCT/CN2012/086408 CN2012086408W WO2014079117A1 WO 2014079117 A1 WO2014079117 A1 WO 2014079117A1 CN 2012086408 W CN2012086408 W CN 2012086408W WO 2014079117 A1 WO2014079117 A1 WO 2014079117A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garment
warp
weft yarns
cutting processing
clothing material
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2012/086408
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
李玉莉
Original Assignee
Li Yuli
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Li Yuli filed Critical Li Yuli
Publication of WO2014079117A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014079117A1/zh

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/005—Cloth spreading or piling apparatus in view of its cutting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of cutting a garment material (clothing material).
  • the elasticity of the garment is one of the comforts of people's dress, and it is one of the reasons why the clothes are easy to open.
  • the method of determining the size is: based on the data obtained by the body (body size), according to the variety, style and wearing purpose of the garment, a certain amount of allowance is added, that is, the amount of relaxation;
  • the direction in which the cloth is placed is such that the warp or weft yarn direction of the cloth is perpendicular to the horizontal line at an angle of 90o.
  • the garments sewn by this cutting method are fit, they are not suitable for human body movement: when the human body is in an active state, the body surface expansion and contraction varies greatly under different postures, but the vast majority of garments The material does not have much flexibility, and the garment cannot be adapted to the various postures and activities of the human body.
  • the flexibility of the elastic garment dressing is relatively good, and the inelastic garment has poor comfort and easy seaming.
  • the method of determining the size is the same as the currently known method, that is, based on the data obtained from the volume, a certain amount of relaxation is added according to the variety, style and wearing purpose of the garment.
  • the difference is the orientation of the cloth.
  • the warp or weft direction of the fabric is no longer perpendicular to the horizontal line, but has a certain inclination.
  • the warp or weft yarn is at an angle of 45o with the horizontal line.
  • the position is good when it is left and right; under the condition that the warp and weft yarn density are the same, the position is best when the warp and weft yarn direction is at the same angle with the horizontal line at 45o, and can be cut according to the calculated size.
  • the weight of the garment is not supported by the warp or weft yarn alone, but is supported by the warp and weft yarns, which greatly improves the supporting performance of the fabric.
  • the garment is stretched in the longitudinal direction by the external tension, the length of the garment is increased, and the garment is contracted laterally; when the garment is stretched in the transverse direction by the external tension, the width of the garment is increased, and the garment is longitudinally contracted.
  • the height and width of the clothes are obviously flexible and extendable under the different tension conditions within the elastic limit. Regardless of whether the fabric originally contains synthetic elastic fibers, the elasticity and toughness of different texture fabrics will increase to varying degrees due to the different physical and mechanical properties of the fabric.
  • the orientation of the cloth is greatly changed, the support performance of the cloth material is greatly improved, the elasticity and toughness of the cloth material are automatically increased, and the drape of the cloth material is also increased, so that the clothes made by the sewing are more Fitted, slim and slim, it can adapt to the body's stretching and bending changes, the comfort is obviously improved, and it is easy to learn without increasing the size of the clothing.
  • BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION When drawing a cloth, after calculating the size of the clothes, the cloth is placed on the floor so that the warp or weft direction of the cloth has a certain inclination to the horizontal line, as warp or weft. When the angle between the line direction and the horizontal line is about 45o, the position is better; when the warp and weft yarn density is the same, the position is best when the warp and weft yarn direction is at the same angle with the horizontal line at 45o, which can be calculated according to the calculation. Dimensional drawing cropping. After the clothes made by this method are worn, the warp and weft yarns of the cloth are uniformly stressed and the elastic force is optimal. This method only changes the orientation of the cloth when the drawing is cut, and is easy to learn.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法，制图裁剪时，计算好衣服的尺寸，平铺放置衣料，使衣料的经纱线或纬纱线方向与水平线有一定的倾斜度。当经或纬纱线方向与水平线的夹角成45°左右时位置较好；在经纬纱线质地相同、密度相同的条件下，当经纬纱线方向同时与水平线的夹角成45°时位置最好。该裁剪处理方法主要用于纺织品梭织服装材料的制图裁剪处理，也可用于纺织品针织服装材料的制图裁剪处理。用此方法裁制衣服着装后，衣服的重量已不靠经或纬纱线单独支撑，而是靠经纬纱线共同支撑，经纬纱线受力均匀，大大提高了衣料的支撑性能。当衣服受外来张力以纵向拉伸时，衣服长度增加，呈横向收缩；反之，宽度增加纵向收缩。衣服的长与宽在不同张力条件下，可灵活伸缩互相转换，无论衣料是否含有弹力纤维，衣服的弹性、韧性可自动增加，能适应人体伸展弯曲变化。

Description

一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法
本发明涉及一种服装材料（衣料）的裁剪处理方法。
服装的弹性大小是人们着装的舒适度之一，也是衣服是否易开缝的原因之一。目前公知的服装材料在制图裁剪时，确定尺寸大小的方法是：在量体所得数据（身体尺寸）基础上，根据服装品种、式样和穿着用途，增加一定的余量即放松量；确定衣料平铺放置方向的方法是：衣料的经纱线或纬纱线方向与水平线互相垂直成90º角。用这种裁剪方法缝制成的服装虽然是合体的，但却不适应人体运动：人体处于活动着的状态时，在不同的姿态下，人体体表伸缩变化很大，但是绝大多数的服装材料并无多大的弹性，不能使服装适合于人体的各种姿态和活动的需要，有弹性的服装着装的舒适度相对较好，无弹性的服装舒适度较差且易开缝。
近年来，为满足人们对服装舒适性要求，化学合成弹力纤维被掺入到一些服装材料中以增加其弹性，但由于人们对天然纤维的认可，以及化学合成弹力纤维的缺陷，决定了化学合成弹力纤维不可能掺入到所有的纺织服装材料中。
本发明的目的是提供一种让各种服装（无论衣料是否有弹性）自动增加弹性和韧性的裁剪处理方法。
制图裁剪衣料时，确定尺寸的方法与目前公知的相同，即在量体所得数据基础上，根据服装品种、式样和穿着用途，增加一定的放松量。有所不同的是衣料的平铺放置方向，衣料的经纱线或纬纱线方向与水平线不再垂直，而是有一定的倾斜度，当经或纬纱线方向与水平线的夹角成45º左右时位置较好；在经纬纱线密度相同质地相同的条件下，当经纬纱线方向同时与水平线的夹角成45º时位置最好，可根据已计算好的尺寸制图裁剪。使用这种裁剪处理方法，缝制成的衣服着装后，衣服的重量已不靠经纱线或纬纱线单独支撑，而是靠经纬纱线共同支撑，大大提高了衣料的支撑性能。当衣服受外来张力以纵向拉伸时，衣服的长度增加，衣服呈横向收缩；当衣服受外来张力以横向拉伸时，衣服的宽度增加，衣服呈纵向收缩。衣服的高度和宽度在不同张力条件下，在弹性限度内，明显是可以互相转换灵活伸缩的。无论衣料原来是否含有合成弹力纤维，不同质地衣料的弹性和韧性，因其组织的物理机械性不同就会有不同程度的增加。
制图裁剪时，通过改变衣料的平铺放置方向，大大地提高了衣料的支撑性能，实现了衣料的弹性和韧性自动增加，衣料的悬垂性也随之增加，所以缝制成的衣服着装后更加合体、显瘦修身、精干，能适应人体伸展弯曲变化，舒适度明显提高，而且不需要增加服装的尺寸，简单易学。
本发明的最佳实施方式：制图裁剪衣料时，计算好衣服的尺寸后，将衣料平铺放置，使衣料的经纱线或纬纱线方向与水平线有一定的倾斜度，当经或纬纱线方向与水平线的夹角成45º左右时位置较好；在经纬纱线密度相同质地相同的条件下，当经纬纱线方向同时与水平线的夹角成45º时位置最好，可根据已计算好的尺寸制图裁剪。用此方法裁制的衣服着装后，衣料的经纬纱线受力均匀，弹力最佳。此方法仅仅改变了制图裁剪时衣料的平铺放置方向，简单易学。

Claims (2)

  1. 一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法，制图裁剪时，计算好衣服的尺寸，平铺放置衣料，其特征是：使衣料的经纱线或纬纱线方向与水平线有一定的倾斜度，当经或纬纱线方向与水平线的夹角成45º左右时位置较好；在经纬纱线质地相同密度相同的条件下，当经纬纱线方向同时与水平线的夹角成45º时位置最好。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的裁剪处理方法,其特征是：主要用于纺织品梭织服装材料的制图裁剪处理，也可用于纺织品针织服装材料的制图裁剪处理。
PCT/CN2012/086408 2012-11-26 2012-12-12 一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法 WO2014079117A1 (zh)

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CN2012104858417A CN102920080A (zh) 2012-11-26 2012-11-26 一种服装材料的裁剪处理方法
CN201210485841.7 2012-11-26

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CN109393586B (zh) * 2018-12-03 2020-09-29 赵萍 中式单大襟服装裁剪方法和服装

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1330963A1 (en) * 2002-01-25 2003-07-30 Kelvin Richards Clothing for use in, under or above water activities
JP2008150765A (ja) * 2006-12-13 2008-07-03 Mitsuru Ito 布地を立体形３ｄ凸形凹形にする主布地にバイアス左布とバイアス右布の伸張バネを利用する裁断方法。
CN101278765A (zh) * 2007-08-09 2008-10-08 丁锡强 服装斜裁方法
WO2009022883A2 (en) * 2007-08-16 2009-02-19 Dong Sub Lee Method of making a garment and a garment maded by using therof

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101053448B (zh) * 2007-05-18 2011-02-09 东华大学 一种非常规斜向结构线服装的结构设计方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1330963A1 (en) * 2002-01-25 2003-07-30 Kelvin Richards Clothing for use in, under or above water activities
JP2008150765A (ja) * 2006-12-13 2008-07-03 Mitsuru Ito 布地を立体形３ｄ凸形凹形にする主布地にバイアス左布とバイアス右布の伸張バネを利用する裁断方法。
CN101278765A (zh) * 2007-08-09 2008-10-08 丁锡强 服装斜裁方法
WO2009022883A2 (en) * 2007-08-16 2009-02-19 Dong Sub Lee Method of making a garment and a garment maded by using therof

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