WO2012085230A1 - Extrait de parties aeriennes de gynandropsis gynandra ou cleome gynandra et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques ou pharmaceutiques le comprenant - Google Patents

Extrait de parties aeriennes de gynandropsis gynandra ou cleome gynandra et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques ou pharmaceutiques le comprenant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012085230A1
WO2012085230A1 PCT/EP2011/073838 EP2011073838W WO2012085230A1 WO 2012085230 A1 WO2012085230 A1 WO 2012085230A1 EP 2011073838 W EP2011073838 W EP 2011073838W WO 2012085230 A1 WO2012085230 A1 WO 2012085230A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
extract
agents
skin
composition
advantageously
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PCT/EP2011/073838
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Philippe Msika
Alex Saunois
Caroline Baudouin
Sophie Leclere-Bienfait
Sebastien DEBROCK
Original Assignee
Laboratoires Expanscience
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Application filed by Laboratoires Expanscience filed Critical Laboratoires Expanscience
Priority to CA2819796A priority Critical patent/CA2819796A1/fr
Priority to EP11804695.2A priority patent/EP2654762B1/fr
Priority to KR1020187018766A priority patent/KR102039846B1/ko
Priority to PL11804695T priority patent/PL2654762T3/pl
Priority to ES11804695T priority patent/ES2700784T3/es
Priority to KR1020137018864A priority patent/KR20140005204A/ko
Priority to CN201180062295.XA priority patent/CN103379910B/zh
Priority to BR112013014091A priority patent/BR112013014091A2/pt
Priority to US13/824,187 priority patent/US9370541B2/en
Publication of WO2012085230A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012085230A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K45/00—Medicinal preparations containing active ingredients not provided for in groups A61K31/00 - A61K41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/02—Drugs for dermatological disorders for treating wounds, ulcers, burns, scars, keloids, or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P9/00—Drugs for disorders of the cardiovascular system
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/50—Methods involving additional extraction steps
    • A61K2236/53—Liquid-solid separation, e.g. centrifugation, sedimentation or crystallization
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical, comprising an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra, more preferably leaves, and advantageously a suitable excipient.
  • the extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra, in the composition has a content of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention also relates to a process for extracting an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra and more preferably leaves, and the extract obtainable by said process.
  • the invention also relates to such a composition or such an extract for its use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, for its use in the prevention or treatment of vascular disorders and / or problems related to hyperseborrhoea, or for its use as anti-acne, anti-aging, healing, moisturizing, slimming and / or anticellulite, anti-allergic and pro-pigmenting.
  • the invention finally relates to a method of cosmetic care of the skin, superficial body growths or mucous membranes, with a view to improving their state or their appearance, of administering such a composition or such an extract.
  • Gynandropsis gynandra is a plant of the family Capparaceae.
  • Gynandropsis gynandra L.
  • Briq or Gyandropsis pentaphylla or Cleome gynandra. It is also referred to by various vernacular names, which vary according to geographical area. We can mention:
  • Vitamin C (127 - 484 mg / 100g)
  • alkaloids The presence of alkaloids is also mentioned by some authors, but not by others.
  • Phenolic compounds (kaempferol, luteolin).
  • the aerial parts are traditionally used for oral administration. Given its reputation as a plant with a high content of vitamins and micronutrients, it is most often used as a food plant, both for adults and children, and is highly recommended for pregnant women as a condiment. for sauces and also as vegetables in soups most often.
  • the aerial parts and cakes obtained after oil extraction from the seeds can be used as fodder for livestock.
  • preparations of leaves, stems and seeds have insecticidal, worming, anti-parasitic and anti-microbial and antioxidant properties when consumed orally.
  • the leaf juice would be used in eye washes.
  • the plant In various traditional medicines (particularly in Africa or India), the plant is used orally mainly, for the treatment of pain (headaches, pain related to delivery, stomach), scorpion bites.
  • the leaves can be applied directly to purulent wounds to prevent pus formation.
  • the inventors have discovered that the extracts of aerial parts (leaves, stems, flowers, seeds) of Gynandropsis gynandra, and advantageously extracts of leaves, have cosmetic and dermatological properties never described so far.
  • the following examples show that the extract according to the invention has a significant anti-DPPH activity.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition comprising, as active principle, an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra (hereinafter referred to as extract according to the invention), advantageously an extract of Gynandropsis gynandra leaves, characterized in that extract comprises at least 3% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalent relative to the weight of the dry extract.
  • the polyphenols are flavonoids.
  • the extract comprises at least 1% by weight of flavonoids, advantageously at least 3% by weight, expressed as rutin equivalent relative to the weight of the dry extract.
  • the extract of Gynandropsis gynandra is optionally in combination with a suitable excipient in the composition.
  • composition is advantageously a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition.
  • composition is advantageously intended to be applied externally externally to the skin, superficial body growths and / or mucous membranes, in particular skin, appendages and / or mucous membranes which are sensitive or attacked by the environment, for example by UV radiation or Pollution.
  • the extract is advantageously an extract of Gynandropsis gynandra leaves.
  • the extract according to the invention can be characterized by its polyphenol content
  • the flavonoids are particularly interesting.
  • the extract according to the invention can be characterized by its content of flavonoids (aluminum chloride assay), which is at least 1% by weight of flavonoids expressed in equivalent rutin relative to the weight of the dry extract.
  • flavonoids are preferably composed mainly of rutin and its derivatives.
  • Rutin is a compound of formula (I):
  • the rutin derivatives are advantageously the compounds in which the flavonic residue of rutin, residue of formula (II), is found:
  • rutin and its derivatives are advantageously found in a proportion, by weight expressed as rutin equivalent relative to the total content by weight of flavonoids, of at least 50%, advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, still more preferably at least 80%.
  • the extract contains from 0% to 80%, advantageously from 10 to 80%, more preferably from 30 to 70% of sugars, the% being expressed by weight relative to the weight of the dry extract.
  • the extract according to the invention advantageously contains 0 to 50% by weight, more preferably 0 to 20% by weight, still more advantageously 0 to 10% by weight of Gynandropsis gynandra lipids; the% being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
  • the extract according to the invention preferably contains 0 to 60% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, still more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight of Gynandropsis gynandra proteins; the% being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract (Bradford assay).
  • This extract is advantageously obtained by solid-liquid extraction of the fresh or dry aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra in an aqueous solvent and / or alcoholic and / or glycolic and / or glycerol.
  • the aerial parts are advantageously the leaves.
  • the solvent is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of water, ethanol, glycerol, a glycol such as propanediol, and their mixtures such as binary mixtures, in proportions of between 0% and 100% of water per relative to other solvents, more preferably in proportions of between 10% and 50%) of water relative to other solvents.
  • the dry part of Gynandropsis gynandra can be leaves, stems, flowers, seeds, alone or in combination, and preferably leaves.
  • ethanol in the presence of ethanol, a proportion of between 0 and 100% of ethanol in water, preferably 10 to 80% ethanol, and advantageously between 60 and 80%, will be chosen (the% is expressed by weight). ethanol relative to the total weight of water + ethanol).
  • glycerol In the presence of glycerol, a proportion of between 0 and 100% of glycerol in water will be chosen, preferably between 30 and 80%, and advantageously 80% (the% is expressed by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of water + glycerol).
  • a proportion of between 0 and 100% of propanediol in water preferably between 10 and 80%, and preferably 60% (% by weight of propanediol per relative to the total weight water + propanediol).
  • the extraction temperature is advantageously between 4 ° C. and 100 ° C., and preferably between 10 ° C. and 60 ° C., and more particularly between 15 ° C. and 30 ° C.
  • the extraction time advantageously varies from 30 minutes to 4 hours, and preferably from 30 minutes to 2 hours, and more advantageously it is about 1 hour.
  • the residual dry matter is advantageously separated from the liquid phase, for example by filtration, decantation or centrifugation.
  • the liquid phase thus obtained can be filtered using suitable porosity filters in order to obtain a clear solution.
  • first separation steps may be followed by purification steps, for example by ultrafiltration and / or nanofiltration, making it possible to concentrate the potential molecules of interest at the expense of others.
  • the extract obtained may be in liquid form but also may be dried by methods known to those skilled in the art, atomization or lyophilization for example with or without a carrier such as maltodextrin.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for the preparation of an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra comprising the following successive stages:
  • step (b) subjecting the mixture obtained following step (a) to extraction in an aqueous solvent and / or alcoholic and / or glycolic and / or glycerol;
  • step (c) centrifugation and / or filtration of the extract obtained following step (b);
  • step (d) where appropriate, ultrafiltration and / or diafiltration and / or nanofiltration of the extract obtained following step (c);
  • step (e) following step (c) or (d), recovering the extract from aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra;
  • step (f) optionally drying the extract obtained in step (e) on a support or not.
  • the sheets are advantageously used in the following proportions: between 0.1 and 50% of dry matter of leaves, preferably between 5 and 20%, and advantageously 5%, the percentages being expressed in weight of dry matter in relation to the total weight used.
  • Step (b) is advantageously stirred. No enzyme has to be added.
  • step (c) the following solvents are advantageously used alone or in a mixture with water: ethanol, glycerol or propanediol in a proportion advantageously between 30 and 90% of these solvents in water and more advantageously between 50 and 80% (the% are expressed by weight of the solvent relative to the total weight solvent + water).
  • the extract is advantageously used as an active agent in a composition such as a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, which may comprise one or more suitable excipients.
  • the composition may further comprise at least one other active compound in addition to the extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra. This other compound may be chosen from all the compounds and their functional equivalents, stated below.
  • This other compound may in particular be chosen from active agents conventionally used in dermatology, pharmacology or in cosmetics and known to those skilled in the art such as emollients, moisturizing active agents, kératorégulateurs, keratolytiques, healing agents and / or or restructuring of the cutaneous barrier, PPAR, RXR or LXR agonists, sebo-regulating agents, anti-irritant and / or anti-inflammatory and / or soothing agents, anti-oxidizing agents, anti-aging agents, depigmenting or hypopigmenting agents, pigmenting agents, lipolytic agents or lipogenesis inhibitors, or anti-cellulite or slimming agents, mineral or organic sunscreens and filters, antifungal compounds, preservatives, anti-bacterial agents, pre and probiotics, antibiotics, immunomodulators.
  • active agents conventionally used in dermatology, pharmacology or in cosmetics and known to those skilled in the art
  • active agents conventionally used in dermatology, pharmacology or in cosmetics and known to those skilled
  • the cicatrizing and / or restructuring agents of the cutaneous barrier which can be used in combination are advantageously panthenol (vitamin B5), arabinogalactan, zinc oxide, ceramides, cholesterol, squalane and phospholipids.
  • the sebo-regulating agents that can be used in combination are advantageously chosen from the group consisting of 5-alpha reductase inhibitors.
  • Zinc and zinc derivatives such as its gluconate, salicylate and pyroglutamic acid salts
  • spironolactone also exhibit sebo-suppressor activity.
  • Other sebum regulators of lipid origin acting on the quality of sebum, such as linoleic acid are of interest.
  • the anti-inflammatory and / or anti-irritant and / or soothing agent may be arabinogalactan.
  • the solar protective active agents that can be used in combination are advantageously filters or sunscreens UVB and / or UVA; such screens or mineral and / or organic filters known to those skilled in the art that will adapt their choice and their concentrations depending on the degree of protection sought.
  • the preservatives that can be used in combination are, for example, those generally used in cosmetics, molecules with antibacterial activity (pseudoconservatives) such as caprylic derivatives such as, for example, capryloyl glycine and glyceryl caprylate; hexanediol, sodium levulinate, and zinc and copper derivatives (gluconate and PC A).
  • caprylic derivatives such as, for example, capryloyl glycine and glyceryl caprylate
  • hexanediol, sodium levulinate, and zinc and copper derivatives gluconate and PC A
  • plant extracts in particular:
  • soybean oils and / or rapeseed oil such as soybean oils and / or rapeseed oil, avocado oil (WO2004 / 012496, WO2004 / 012752, WO2004 / 016106, WO2007 / 057439), Lupine oil, advantageously sweet white Lupine oil (WO 98/47479), or a mixture of these oils;
  • Soline ® sunflower oil concentrated in unsaponifiables
  • oils concentrated in unsaponifiable oil such as avocado oil, rapeseed, corn or palm, useful in particular for their moisturizing and / or emollient, healing and / or restructuring of the skin barrier, anti-inflammatory and / or anti-irritant and / or soothing;
  • unsaponifiable plant or vegetable oil preferably of avocado furans (Avocadofurane® ®), obtainable by the process described in the international application WO 01/21605, the unsaponifiable components of avocado and / or soybean, most particularly a mixture of unsaponifiables of furanic avocado and of unsaponifiable soya, advantageously in a ratio about 1 / 3-2 / 3 (such as Piasclédine), the unsaponifiables of soya (as obtained according to the process described in the international application WO 01/51596), sterile unsaponifiables (typically unsaponifiables whose content in sterols, methyl sterols and triterpene alcohols is between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably 45-65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the unsaponifiable), phytosterols, sterol esters and vitamin derivatives , useful in particular for their healing and / or restructuring of avocado fur
  • plant amino acid peptides or complexes in particular avocado peptides (such as those described in international application WO2005 / 105123), lupine peptides (such as those obtained according to the method described in application WO2005 / 102259 ), quinoa peptides (such as those described in international application WO2008 / 080974), Maca peptides such as those described in International Application WO2004 / 112742), fermented or non-fermented soybean peptides, rice peptides ( such as those described in the international application WO 2008/009709), useful in particular for their moisturizing and / or emollient (avocado), kératorégulatrice (lupine, quinoa), cicatrizing and / or restructuring of the cutaneous barrier (maca, quinoa, soy) ), anti-inflammatory and / or anti-irritant and / or soothing (lupine, quinoa), antioxidant (avocado), anti-aging (lup
  • plant sugars in particular avocado sugars (such as those described in the application WO2005 / 115421), useful in particular for their kerato-regulating, healing and / or restructuring property of the skin barrier, anti-inflammatory and / or anti-inflammatory agents. irritating and / or soothing;
  • butyl avocadate (5 alpha Avocuta ®), inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase (see WO 01/52837 and WO 02/06205) and typically regulator seborrhea secretion would be increased in acne or dandruff; extracts rich in polyphenol, and more particularly extracts of avocado fruits (such as those described in application FR 1 061 055) and extracts of Maca leaves (such as those described in application FR 1 061 047) ;
  • a total lupine extract (such as those described in international application WO2005 / 102259), particularly suitable for the treatment of irritations;
  • oxazolines in particular those chosen from the group consisting of 2-undecyl-4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E) -4,4-dimethyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl- 2-heptadecyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E) -4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4-ethyl-4-hydroxymethyl 1,3 oxazoline, preferably 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-3-oxazoline (OX-100 ® or Cyclocéramide; WO2004050052, WO2004050079, and WO20041 12741). They are particularly useful
  • 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as butyl avocadate (5 alpha Avocuta ®).
  • All of these combinations comprise at least one other active compound, in addition to the extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra, and may comprise two, three, four or more active compounds as described above.
  • composition according to the invention can be formulated in the form of various preparations suitable for topical administration, oral, rectal, vaginal, nasal, atrial or bronchial administration, as well as parenteral administration.
  • the composition according to the invention is advantageously formulated in the form of various preparations adapted for topical administration, more particularly for application to the skin, and / or the integuments and / or the mucous membranes.
  • the various preparations are suitable for topical administration and include, in particular, creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches, sprays, shampoos, varnishes or any other product for external application.
  • the modes of administration, the dosages and the optimal dosage forms of the compounds and compositions according to the invention can be determined according to the criteria generally taken into account in the establishment of a pharmaceutical treatment, in particular dermatological, cosmetic or veterinary treatment adapted to a patient or an animal such as the age or body weight of the patient or animal, the severity of his general condition, the tolerance to treatment, the side effects noted, the type of skin.
  • the composition and / or the active compounds according to the invention may further comprise at least one pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, in particular dermatologically acceptable, or a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
  • an excipient suitable for external topical administration is used.
  • the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one pharmaceutical or cosmetic adjuvant known to those skilled in the art, chosen from thickeners, preservatives, perfumes, dyes, chemical or mineral filters, moisturizing agents, thermal waters, etc.
  • composition comprising an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra having the specifications indicated is particularly intended for cosmetic or dermatological use.
  • the composition will be advantageously formulated in the form of a preparation adapted for topical administration.
  • the subject of the invention is also the composition according to the invention or an extract of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra as defined above, for its use as a cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological, advantageously cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • the composition or the extract according to the present invention is used in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or integuments.
  • composition or the extract according to the present invention is used in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to acne.
  • the pathophysiology of acne is associated with various triggers including hyper-seborrhea, follicular hyperkeratinization (comedogenesis), and bacterial colonization by Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). These factors are entangled and interact with each other (Bellew et al 2011, 10 (6): 582-585).
  • P. acnes is also associated with excessive development of P. acnes. This commensal bacterium behaves like an opportunistic pathogen favored by the environment of acne (hyper-seborrhea / inflammation / obstruction of the follicle). P. acnes produces many factors that contribute to aggravate comedogenesis and inflammation: signaling via TLR (Toll receptors) to induce and maintain inflammation, release of enzymes leading to rupture of the follicle wall, production chemotactic factors for neutrophil attraction.
  • TLR Toll receptors
  • composition or the extract according to the present invention is therefore also used in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to hyperseborrhea, such as seborrheic dermatitis (milk crusts), acne and acne-prone skin. , and the dandruff states.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is particularly useful in the prevention and / or treatment of vascular disorders, for the protection of the blood vessels and / or to act on the blood circulation, in particular the blood microcirculation.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is therefore advantageously used in the prevention and / or treatment of the (chronic) dilation of the subcutaneous capillaries.
  • skin that may occur under conditions such as rosacea, rash, rosacea, pruritus, skin and / or reactive mucosa, with redness, particularly due to dilation of the subcutaneous capillaries.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is also advantageously used as a chronological or photoinduced anti-aging product in the prevention of aging, and of photo-induced aging and, as a healing product, in prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to scarring and cutaneous organization.
  • disorders related to cicatrization and cutaneous organization disorders resulting from healing processes and cutaneous organization of the skin such as loose skin, stretch marks, scabs, cracks, crevices in particular at the level of the breasts.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is used (e) as a moisturizing product, involved in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders of the barrier or homeostasis of the skin, superficial body growths ( hair and nails) and / or mucous membranes (gingiva, periodontal, genital mucosa) immature, normal or mature / aged.
  • skin barrier disorders refers to the disorders that occur in the outer layer of the epidermis.
  • homeostasis disorders of the skin, superficial body growths and / or mucous membranes is understood to mean the disorders resulting from cell renewal and equilibrium processes such as psoriasis, dermatitis of the seat, atopic dermatitis, dry skin ( xerosis), dehydrated skin and photosensitized skin.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is also advantageously used in the treatment and / or prevention of inflammations due to rays of all kinds, in particular sunburns.
  • composition or the extract according to the present invention may also be advantageously used as a slimming product in the regulation of adipose tissue, cellulite and more particularly via the inhibition of lipogenesis.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention is used as an antiallergic product in the prevention and / or treatment of reactions or pathologies allergic dermatitis such as allergic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, eczema and pruritus.
  • composition or the extract according to the invention can be used as a pro-pigmenting product in the prevention and / or treatment of reactions, disorders or pathologies of the skin with depigmentation disorders, such as as depigmented skin (vitiligo).
  • composition or the extract according to the invention can be used for the prevention and / or treatment of reactions, disorders or pathologies of the skin or reactions, disorders or pathologies of integuments such as hair (alopecia , dandruff, hirsutism, folliculitis) or reactions, disorders or pathologies of the mucous membranes such as gums and periodontics that may present gingivitis (sensitive gums of newborns, hygiene problems, due to smoking or other), periodontal disease, or genital mucosa that may present irritations of the external or internal female or female genital spheres, related to a deficit of innate (antimicrobial peptides) or acquired (cellular, humoral, cytokine) immunity
  • the invention also relates to a method of cosmetic care of the skin and / or integuments and / or mucous membranes, with a view to improving their state and / or their appearance, consisting in applying to the skin and / or superficial body growths and / or mucous membranes of patients who require a composition or an extract according to the present invention.
  • the skin and / or the integuments and / or the mucous membranes in question are advantageously those which are sensitive, irritated, and attacked by the environment (UV, pollution), in particular the skin. sensitive. Sensitive skin often shows redness (especially of the face), typically with tugging or tingling daily.
  • the cosmetic process according to the invention is in particular for the purpose of improving patients suffering from acne and presenting acne-prone skins and also with a view to improving the film states.
  • the cosmetic process according to the invention is also characterized in that the composition or the extract is a chronological or photoinduced anti-aging product, hydrating, slimming and / or anticellulite.
  • the composition or the extract is a chronological or photoinduced anti-aging product, hydrating, slimming and / or anticellulite.
  • the leafy stems of Gynandropsis gynandra dried and crushed are suspended with stirring at 5% in an ethanol / water mixture 80/20 w / w for 1 h at room temperature.
  • the residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase either by filtration, decantation or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained can be filtered using suitable porosity filters in order to obtain a clear solution.
  • the extract obtained has the following characteristics:
  • This extract has an anti-radical activity, anti-DPPH "in tubo", for which the inhibitory concentration 50 (IC50) could be determined and is 0.2 mg of dry extract, which represents 19 ⁇ g of polyphenols in the reaction medium.
  • the leafy stems of dried and ground Gynandropsis gynandra are suspended with 5% stirring in a glycerol / water mixture 80/20 w / w for 1 h at room temperature.
  • the residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase either by filtration, decantation or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained can be filtered using suitable porosity filters in order to obtain a clear solution.
  • the extract obtained has the following characteristics:
  • Flavonoids content (A1C13) - eq. rutin: 4% / sec
  • This extract has an anti-radical activity, anti-DPPH "in tubo", for which the inhibitory concentration 50 (IC50) could be determined and is 0.09 mg of dry extract, which represents 7, 1 ⁇ g of polyphenols in the reaction medium.
  • IC50 inhibitory concentration 50
  • the leafy stalks of dried and ground Gynandropsis gynandra are suspended with stirring at 5% in a propanediol / water mixture 60/40 w / w for 1 h at room temperature.
  • the residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase either by filtration, decantation or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained can be filtered using suitable porosity filters in order to obtain a clear solution.
  • the extract obtained has the following characteristics:
  • Flavonoids content (A1C13) - eq. rutin: 4.8% / sec
  • This extract has an anti-radical activity, anti-DPPH "in tubo", for which the inhibitory concentration 50 (IC50) could be determined and is 0.16 mg of dry extract, which represents 14 ⁇ g of polyphenols in the reaction medium.
  • Example 4 Compositions for topical application
  • the inventors present below several compositions for topical application.
  • the extracts of aerial parts of Gynandropsis gynandra can be incorporated into various cosmetic products such as cleaning waters, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, oils, milks, lotions, shampoos, foaming products and sprays. , whose compositions are presented below.
  • the percentages represent the weight of the product relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Example 5 Biological activity of Gvnandrovsis extract evnandra A. Biological activity in acne
  • the neutral lipids were quantified by fluorescence measurement after Nile red labeling. This measurement, expressed in fluorescence unit (RFU), reflects the "de novo" synthesis of intracellular lipids by the sebocytes.
  • REU fluorescence unit
  • the GG extract strongly and significantly inhibited lipid production by basal sebocytes (constitutive synthesis) and stimulated by arachidonic acid (Table 1).
  • GG extract modulates the early aggravating factors of acne.
  • Human keratinocytes (HaCaT line) were pre-incubated for 48 h in the presence of 0.0005% Gynandropsis gynandra extract (GG); 0.002%; 0.008% and 0.031% (w / v active ingredient) or the reference inhibitor: nicotinamide. The keratinocytes were then stimulated by incubation for 18 hours with a bacterial suspension of P. acnes (strain ATCC6919).
  • the amount of IL-8 produced by the keratinocytes was measured in the culture supernatants by an ELISA technique.
  • Figure 1 shows the IL8 production, in pg / ml, by P. acnes stimulated keratinocytes, as a function of the active concentration in%.
  • GG extract modulates the impact of P. acnes in the pathophysiology of acne.
  • the gene expression of the anti-microbial peptides was analyzed by quantitative RT-PCR in real time.
  • GG extract stimulated the expression of antimicrobial peptides by keratinocytes (Table 3).
  • the GG extract limits the bacterial colonization of the skin and thus limits the pathogenicity associated with P. acnes.
  • the neutrophil plays an important role in the pathophysiology of acne. It is present in large quantities in acne skin especially because of the many chemotactic substances produced by P. acnes.
  • Human neutrophils were pre-treated for 30 minutes with Gynandropsis gynandra extract at 0.001% and 0.002% (w / v active ingredient) or with a reference inhibitor.
  • the cells were then deposited in the "Transwell®" migration system: the pre-treated neutrophils were deposited in inserts positioned on a receptor plate containing the chemoattractant: fMLP (N-formyl-Met-Leu-Phe) at 1 ⁇ .
  • fMLP N-formyl-Met-Leu-Phe
  • the number of migrated neutrophils was evaluated by measuring the enzymatic activity of LDH (Lactate Dehydrogenase).
  • the GG extract therefore prevents the recruitment of neutrophils in the skin described in acne.
  • Leukotriene B4 is produced and liberated massively by neutrophils, it plays a role in acne lesions and induces secretion of sebum. - Material and methods :
  • the cells were then stimulated by addition of opsonized zymosan at 1 mg / ml.
  • LTB4 leukotriene B4
  • GG extract modulates the impact of neutrophils and LTB4 in acne.
  • Histamine can alter the production of sebum. Indeed, the sebocytes (constituent cells of the sebaceous gland, responsible for the production of sebum) have on their surface histamine receptors.
  • Mast cells were preincubated for 30 minutes in the presence of Gynandropsis gynandra extract (GG) at 0.08% (w / v active ingredient) or calcium at 10 mM (reference inhibitor of the release of histamine).
  • GG Gynandropsis gynandra extract
  • calcium calcium at 10 mM (reference inhibitor of the release of histamine).
  • the mast cells were then stimulated with substance P at 10 ⁇ for 15 minutes. At the end of the incubation, the histamine released was quantified by ELISA.
  • the keratinocytes were then stimulated with hydrogen peroxide (H 2 0 2 ) at 100 ⁇ for 20 minutes.
  • ROS reactive Oxygen Species
  • the GG extract inhibited the production of ROS by keratinocytes in response to oxidative stress induced by H2O2 (Table 7), so it has an antioxidant effect.
  • Jurkat line cells were preincubated for 45 minutes in the presence of Gynandropsis gynandra extract (GG) at 0.02% (w / v active ingredient) or 100 ⁇ M BHT (reference) and in the presence of the fluorescent probe Ci-fluorine, specific for lipid peroxidation.
  • GG Gynandropsis gynandra extract
  • BHT reference
  • the cells were then irradiated with UVA + B and then incubated for 30 minutes in the presence of GG or BHT.
  • the GG extract significantly protected the cells against lipid peroxidation induced by UV irradiation (Table 8).
  • the management of acne can be accompanied by a pro-healing action.
  • the cells were labeled with calcein and then incubated for 72 hours in the presence of Gynandropsis gynandra extract (GG) at 0.001% and 0.005% (w / v of active ingredient) or by reference (EGF at 10 ng / ml ).
  • GG Gynandropsis gynandra extract
  • EGF EGF
  • keratinocyte migration was monitored by microphotography and quantified by wound area measurement.
  • FIG. 2 represents photographs of control cells or of cells incubated in the presence of 0.001% and 0.005% (w / v of active ingredient) gynandropsis gynandra extract (GG) or by reference (10 ng / ml EGF) ) at 0 (T0), 24 (T24), 48 (T48) and 72 hours (T72); T0 being the moment when the wound was performed.
  • GG gynandropsis gynandra extract
  • T72 72 hours
  • the GG extract significantly stimulated the migration of keratinocytes (Table 9, Figure 2) with a total recovery of the wound from 48 hours.
  • the GG extract therefore promotes the process of reepithelialization during skin healing.
  • the lipids were extracted and the incorporated radioactivity (corresponding to lipogenesis) was measured by liquid scintillation.
  • GG extract significantly inhibited lipid neosynthesis by adipocytes (Table 10).
  • melanin was extracted from the cells and quantified by spectrophotometry.
  • the GG extract significantly stimulated and potentiated the effect of NDP-MSH on melanin production (Table 11).
  • the extract therefore has a pro-pigmenting effect.
  • PGF Peak Growth Factor
  • PDGF Plated Growth Factor B subunit
  • VEGFR3 Vascular endothelial growth factor receptor 3
  • thrombospondin-1 stimulates the expression of anti-angiogenic molecules: thrombospondin-1 and endostatin.
  • calmodulin stimulates the expression of molecules involved in vasoconstriction: calmodulin and endothelin-1.
  • aSMA smooth Muscle Actin
  • troponin 1 aSmooth Muscle Actin
  • Heme Oxygenase 1 protective role in preventing Free Theme from participating in prooxidant reactions
  • thioredoxin repair of oxidative damage to proteins

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PCT/EP2011/073838 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Extrait de parties aeriennes de gynandropsis gynandra ou cleome gynandra et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques ou pharmaceutiques le comprenant WO2012085230A1 (fr)

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CA2819796A CA2819796A1 (fr) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Extrait de parties aeriennes de gynandropsis gynandra ou cleome gynandra et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques ou pharmaceutiques le comprenant
EP11804695.2A EP2654762B1 (fr) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Extrait de parties aeriennes de gynandropsis gynandra ou cleome gynandra et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques ou pharmaceutiques le comprenant
KR1020187018766A KR102039846B1 (ko) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 기난드로프시스 기난드라 또는 클레오메 기난드라 지상부위 추출물, 및 이를 포함하는 화장, 피부과학적 또는 약학조성물
PL11804695T PL2654762T3 (pl) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Wyciąg z części nadziemnych gynandropsis gynandra lub cleome gynandra i kompozycje kosmetyczne, dermatologiczne lub farmaceutyczne go zawierające
ES11804695T ES2700784T3 (es) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Extracto de partes aéreas de Gynandropsis gynandra o Cleome gynandra y composiciones cosméticas, dermatológicas o farmacéuticas que lo comprenden
KR1020137018864A KR20140005204A (ko) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 기난드로프시스 기난드라 또는 클레오메 기난드라 지상부위 추출물, 및 이를 포함하는 화장, 피부과학적 또는 약학조성물
CN201180062295.XA CN103379910B (zh) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 白花菜地上部分提取物及包含其的化妆品、皮肤病学或药物组合物
BR112013014091A BR112013014091A2 (pt) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 extrato de partes aéreas de gynandropsis gynandra ou de cleome gynandra e composições cosméticas, dermatológicas ou farmacêuticas que compreendem as mesmas
US13/824,187 US9370541B2 (en) 2010-12-22 2011-12-22 Extract of the above-ground portions of gynandropsis gynandra or cleome gynandra, and cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical compositions including same

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KR101934169B1 (ko) 2013-12-24 2018-12-31 더 프록터 앤드 갬블 캄파니 피부 케어 활성제의 증진된 침투를 제공하는 화장 조성물 및 방법
CN104382967B (zh) * 2014-11-29 2018-09-11 河南后羿实业集团有限公司 一种白花菜子油栓剂及其制备方法
US10596214B2 (en) 2016-10-04 2020-03-24 Mary Kay Inc. Methods and compositions for treating striae distensae
CN112218616A (zh) 2018-03-23 2021-01-12 玫琳凯有限公司 局部用组合物和方法
WO2020123306A1 (en) 2018-12-14 2020-06-18 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions
CN110623000A (zh) * 2019-09-09 2019-12-31 湖北工程学院 一种白花菜提取物及其制备方法和用途
CN110711166A (zh) * 2019-11-03 2020-01-21 广州悦荟化妆品有限公司 一种控油保湿功效的爽肤水
CN111329799B (zh) * 2020-02-18 2021-06-04 北京果素堂生物科技有限公司 无刺激性的白子菜活性物的制备方法及其应用
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US9370541B2 (en) 2016-06-21
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BR112013014091A2 (pt) 2016-09-20
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KR102039846B1 (ko) 2019-11-01
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