WO2011102834A1 - Comfort soap cleanser - Google Patents

Comfort soap cleanser Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011102834A1
WO2011102834A1 PCT/US2010/024548 US2010024548W WO2011102834A1 WO 2011102834 A1 WO2011102834 A1 WO 2011102834A1 US 2010024548 W US2010024548 W US 2010024548W WO 2011102834 A1 WO2011102834 A1 WO 2011102834A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fatty acids
acid
salts
carbon atoms
parts
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2010/024548
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Ricardo Diez
Original Assignee
Chanel Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Chanel Inc. filed Critical Chanel Inc.
Priority to PCT/US2010/024548 priority Critical patent/WO2011102834A1/en
Priority to JP2012553863A priority patent/JP2013520416A/ja
Publication of WO2011102834A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011102834A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to skin cleansing cream compositions .
  • Soap-based cleansing foaming creams are opaque, viscous products with the appearance and feel similar to skin treatment creams, but with cleansing and lathering properties. These cleansing creams are made using neutralizing fatty acids with an alkali component, commonly in-situ, in the presence of water. The majority of current commercial foaming creams use blends of fatty acids, from C 1 2 to Cis atoms, and potassium hydroxide as the alkali component.
  • soap solubilizers e.g., glycols, glycol ethers and polyols
  • These cleansing creams usually include surfactants to increase foaming, and other additives, such as emulsifiers, emollients, hydrating agents, fragrance, preservatives, etc, that are well known in the art.
  • One of the drawbacks, in general, for soap-based cleansing compositions is the potential to irritate or to dry the skin. This is caused, in part, by the content of soap present in commercial products that can be as high as 35%.
  • the products are normally applied directly onto the skin and spread on the skin with little water, if any. When water is later applied to generate foam, the dilution effect of the water still leaves product on the skin having a soap concentration as high as 10%, at a pH as high as 9.5.
  • U.S. Patent No. 6,733,765 teaches a soap-based foaming cosmetic cream in which lauric and myristic fatty acids are the main constituents of the fatty acid mixture from which the soap is made.
  • the cleansers in this patent exhibit at least one paracrystalline phase of direct hexagonal phase, cubic phase, and their mixtures.
  • Example 1 discloses a stable foaming cream made of 23% lauric and myristic acids (Ci 2 and Ci 4 , "water-soluble soaps”) , and 6% palmitic and stearic acids (Ci6 and Cis, "water-insoluble soaps”) that are completely neutralized into the respective potassium soaps, for a total content of about 33% soap.
  • Comparative Example 2 teaches a composition that is not stable in which the total soap content is about 28% but in which the ratio of water-soluble to water- insoluble soaps has been reversed to about 1:3.
  • Cleansing products made with a majority of lauric and myristic fatty acids like the ones described in the ⁇ 765 Patent, have adverse effects such as skin dryness and even skin irritation, mainly to users with sensitive skin, and especially when the fatty acids are totally neutralized into soaps, as in the examples of the ⁇ 765 Patent.
  • U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2003/0224955 teaches foaming compositions containing soap, at least one non- betaine amphoteric surfactant, and at least one sulphosuccinate surfactant, in which the ratio of these surfactant types is less than about 2:1, respectively.
  • the preferred fatty acids used in the examples in this publication are palmitic and myristic (Cie and Ci 4 respectively) .
  • the compositions in this publication are limited by the mandatory use of specific surfactants in specific ratios to obtain product stability, and by the need for vacuum equipment to eliminate the aeration created by the surfactants.
  • U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0020461 discloses compositions with overall improved attributes which are prepared using mainly long chain fatty acids, and incorporating C2 0 to C2 4 fatty acids which are seldom used to prepare soap-based cleansers. Specifically, the 61
  • compositions containing from 20 to 50% of fatty acids and their salts in which the content of these very long C20 to C24 fatty acids is from 10 to 30% by weight of the total fatty acid components, and wherein the ratio of fatty acids having not more than 15 carbon atoms to acids having not less than 16 carbon atoms is from 20:80 to 50:50.
  • the exemplified compositions have the fatty acids neutralized to 80% and have a content of the C20 to C24 fatty acids from 6 to 8% of the total weight.
  • the 61 Publication rejects compositions containing more than 15% of the C20 to C24 fatty acids due to poor foaming.
  • the present invention relates to cleansing compositions for topical application comprising fatty acids and their salts, wherein the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is not less than 15% by weight, and wherein the content of fatty acids having 14 carbon atoms or less and their salts is from 40% to 90% of the content of C20 to C24 fatty acids, and wherein the level of neutralization of the fatty acids into soaps is from 50 to 75%.
  • the present invention relates to mild cleansing compositions for topical application having a creamy and soft texture, excellent spreading and massaging on the skin, a creamy lathering, and a good skin after feel and conditioning. Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly found that these highly desired properties can be achieved only when certain conditions are met.
  • fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms must be present in a minimum amount.
  • fatty acids having fourteen or less carbon atoms must be at a specific ratio to the fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms.
  • the degree of neutralization of fatty acids into their respective soaps must be kept under controlled limits.
  • the preferred fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms are arachic, behenic and lignoceric (C20, C22 and C2 4 respectively) . Behenic acid is the most preferred.
  • the total amount in the composition, alone or as a mixture, is from no less than 15% to about 30% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 16 to 25%.
  • the preferred fatty acids having less than fourteen carbon atoms are lauric and myristic (C 1 2, and C14 respectively) .
  • the amount in the composition, alone or as a mixture, is from 40% to 90% of the content of the C20 to C2 4 fatty acids, more preferably from 65% to 90%.
  • the neutralization of the fatty acids into soap is achieved with the addition of an alkali, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, alone or in a mixture, as well as primary, secondary and tertiary amines, alone or as a mixture. Potassium hydroxide is the most preferred neutralizing agent.
  • the degree of neutralization of fatty acids into their respective soaps is adjusted from 50 to 75%, more preferably from 55 to 70%.
  • the total content of the fatty acids and their salts preferably should not exceed 40% by weight of the composition. Above this amount there are no substantial improvements on product performance, while skin irritation, material cost and processing difficulties increase.
  • a content of the fatty acids and their salts below 20% by weight of the compositon results in products that are deficient in texture, cleansing and lathering .
  • the cleansing compositions of the present invention contain, in addition to water, soap solubilizers at concentrations of from about 10% to about 40% by weight of the total composition.
  • soap solubilizers include but are not limited to glycols, glycol ethers and other polyols, and are present at concentrations from 15 to about 35%, depending on the soap content.
  • Preferred soap solubilizers are glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, PEG 200, and PEG 1200. Low molecular weight alcohols can also be used but are not preferred.
  • the cleansing compositions of the present invention are opaque in appearance and they generally have a viscosity of about 20,000 to 100,0000 centipoise.
  • one or more surfactants known by their compatibility with soap can be added. Suitable surfactants are well-known to those of skill in the art and are well described in Chapter 11 of the book Anionic Surfactants, Organic Chemistry, edited by Helmut W. Stached, published by M.Dekker, 1996, which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • Preferred surfactants are selected from the group consisting of fatty amides of methyltaurine, fatty esters of isethionic and acyl isethionic acid, methyl ester sulfonates and olefin sulfonates.
  • acyl glutamate, acyl alaninate, and acyl glycinate surfactants can also be used.
  • the surfactant content can be from about 1% to about 15% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%.
  • compositions of the present invention include polyquaternary skin conditioning and skin depositing agents, abrasives, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, fragrance, humectants, moisturizers, soothing and/or healing agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof.
  • these ingredients include polyquaternary skin conditioning and skin depositing agents, abrasives, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, fragrance, humectants, moisturizers, soothing and/or healing agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof.
  • Example 1 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 23 parts behenic acid and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.0 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts.
  • Example 1 was found to be very deficient for lathering.
  • Example 2 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of stearic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.0 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering, and was found to be very deficient.
  • Example 3 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of palmitic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate.
  • Example 4 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of myristic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate.
  • Example 5 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of lauric acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.5 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering. While there was some lathering, it was an unsatisfactory amount. The lathering was considered deficient .
  • Example 6 was made as example 5 but increasing the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids to about 100% by means of adding 4.6 parts of potassium hydroxide. This sample was evaluated for lathering and surprisingly, and despite the higher content of potassium soaps, it had an unacceptable amount of lathering. Thus, the lathering was found to be deficient .
  • Example 7 was made as example 5 but reducing the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids to about 60% by means of adding only 2.8 parts of potassium hydroxide. This sample was evaluated for foam and surprisingly, and despite the lesser content of potassium soaps and higher content of non- neutralized fatty acids, it was found to be very acceptable.
  • Example 8 was made at 95°C mixing 30 parts water, 10 parts glycerol, 10 parts dypropylene glycol followed by the addition of 17 parts behenic acid, 5.7 parts of myristic acid, and 5.5 parts of lauric acid, representing a mole ratio of 2:1:1.
  • Example 9 was made at 95°C mixing 30 parts water, 10 parts glycerol, 10 parts dipropylene glycol, followed by the addition of 17 parts behenic acid, 2.7 parts of myristic acid, and 11.4 parts of lauric acid, representing a mole ratio of 2:1:2. About 1 part of glyceryl stearate was added followed by the addition of about 4 parts of potassium hydroxide pre-dissolved in water for an average degree of neutralization of about 60%, and a pH about 7.8. After the neutralization step, water was added to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering and it was found to be copious, rich and very creamy in texture .
  • Example 10 was made at 95°C mixing 20 parts water, 0.5 part guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride, 18 parts glycerin, 2 parts dypropylene glycol, 15 parts of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (30% active solution) , followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, and 13 parts of myristic acid. About 1 part of glyceryl stearate was added followed by the addition of about 3.5 parts of potassium hydroxide pre-dissolved in about 9 parts of water for an average degree of neutralization of about 65%. After the neutralization step, water was added to 100 parts.
  • the composition of example 10 has a total content of fatty acids and their salts of about 31% with a degree of neutralization of about 60%, wherein the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is about 17%, and wherein the content of fatty acids having 14 carbon atoms or less and their salts is about 85 % of the content of C20 to C24 fatty acids and their salts.
  • This sample had a melting point near 45 C, and it was rated very highly for ease of spreading on the skin, creamy texture, excellent rich and creamy lather after water addition, and for leaving the skin feeling soft and conditioned after usage. Repeated use of the product by the panelists, up to 5 times in less than 60 minutes, did not result in signs of dry, irritated skin.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
PCT/US2010/024548 2010-02-18 2010-02-18 Comfort soap cleanser WO2011102834A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/US2010/024548 WO2011102834A1 (en) 2010-02-18 2010-02-18 Comfort soap cleanser
JP2012553863A JP2013520416A (ja) 2010-02-18 2010-02-18 コンフォートソープクレンザー

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/US2010/024548 WO2011102834A1 (en) 2010-02-18 2010-02-18 Comfort soap cleanser

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2011102834A1 true WO2011102834A1 (en) 2011-08-25

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992019712A1 (en) * 1991-04-29 1992-11-12 S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Cast cleaning and/or deodorizing composition
US20030224955A1 (en) 2002-03-28 2003-12-04 Delphine Ribery Foaming cosmetic compositions, uses for cleansing or make-up removal
US6733765B2 (en) 2000-06-23 2004-05-11 L'oreal Foaming cosmetic cream
US20050020461A1 (en) 2003-06-13 2005-01-27 Kao Corporation Skin cleansing compositions
WO2007068358A1 (en) * 2005-12-16 2007-06-21 Unilever Plc Skin benefit composition and a method for using the same

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0688100A (ja) * 1991-10-18 1994-03-29 Shiseido Co Ltd 洗浄剤組成物
JP3828547B2 (ja) * 2003-02-07 2006-10-04 花王株式会社 枠練り石鹸組成物
JP3811168B2 (ja) * 2003-06-13 2006-08-16 花王株式会社 皮膚洗浄剤組成物

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992019712A1 (en) * 1991-04-29 1992-11-12 S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Cast cleaning and/or deodorizing composition
US6733765B2 (en) 2000-06-23 2004-05-11 L'oreal Foaming cosmetic cream
US20030224955A1 (en) 2002-03-28 2003-12-04 Delphine Ribery Foaming cosmetic compositions, uses for cleansing or make-up removal
US20050020461A1 (en) 2003-06-13 2005-01-27 Kao Corporation Skin cleansing compositions
WO2007068358A1 (en) * 2005-12-16 2007-06-21 Unilever Plc Skin benefit composition and a method for using the same

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
HELMUT W. STACHED: "Anionic Surfactants, Organic Chemistry", 1996, M.DEKKER, article "Chapter 11"

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