WO2009047443A2

WO2009047443A2 - Cosmetic composition for improving skin condition

Info

Publication number: WO2009047443A2
Application number: PCT/FR2008/051663
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-Noël THOREL
Original assignee: Thorel Jean-Noel
Priority date: 2007-10-02
Filing date: 2008-09-17
Publication date: 2009-04-16
Also published as: FR2921561A1; FR2921561B1; WO2009047443A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a topic cosmetic composition that comprises: an aqueous extract of an alga named Blidingia Minima, an aqueous extract of an alga named Laminaria Saccharina, and an oily extract of an alga named Laminaria Ochroleuca.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR IMPROVING THE CONDITION OF THE SKIN

The subject of the invention is a novel cometic composition containing a mixture of constituents intended to improve the state of the skin by acting on a certain number of dysfunctions.

In the present invention, the notion of "improvement of the state of the skin" refers in particular to the improvement of: - its brightness by virtue of its state of hydration, its firmness through the quality of its tissues. support, its appeasement through the stress it undergoes, its transparency through the fineness of its grain.

All of these dysfunctions are generally corrected case by case by means of cosmetic compositions which have the disadvantage of creating an imbalance of the metabolism of the cells present in the epidermis. These cells operate in a cycle comprising essentially 4 distinct phases that are: nutrition corresponding to the water, mineral salts, vitamins etc. of the cell, the construction corresponding to the synthesis of proteins, the detoxification corresponding to the elimination of waste produced by the cell, the regeneration corresponding to the multiplication of the cells.

However, it appears that the rupture of this equilibrium at one or the other of these phases causes a visible dysfunction in the skin. It is a dehydrated state in the event of lack of nutrients, hyperseborrhoea in the event of weakened detoxification, structural alteration in case of faulty construction and cellular stress leading to cellular hyper reactivity in case lack of regeneration.

The balance of the cell cycle can be demonstrated by the technique known as

"Kirlian photography". This photograph shows the distribution of energy in the cell via light zones called "strimers" distributed around a circle.

A homogeneous distribution and a high intensity of the strimers are the sign of a satisfactory cell balance. Figure 1 represents in this sense the Kirlian circle of a young cell. On the contrary, a random distribution and a limited intensity of the strimers are the sign of an imbalance of the cell cycle. Figure 2 represents in this sense the Kirlian circle of an aged cell.

Rather than acting directly and exclusively on the visible dysfunction of the skin, which is what most cosmetic compositions do today, the Applicant sought to restore the cellular equilibrium of the epidermis beforehand. More specifically, the object of the invention has been to develop a composition that restores the cell balance by acting directly on the cell cycle so as to render the cells receptive to the effects of components applied subsequently or simultaneously and intended for their part, to fight directly against visible dysfunctions of the skin.

To do this, the Applicant has developed a new topical cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous extract of an alga called Blidingia Minima, an aqueous extract of an alga called Laminaria Saccharina, an oily extract of an alga called Laminaria Ochroleuca, - optionally, an aqueous extract of plankton.

In an advantageous embodiment, the composition contains the four extracts identified above.

The Applicant has demonstrated that such a composition can restore the balance of the cell cycle

Of course all of these extracts are obtained under conditions well known to those skilled in the art, preferably from fresh algae by extraction in aqueous medium, optionally in the presence of alcohol. The extraction conditions do not therefore need to be described in detail.

In practice, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention contains (in percentage by weight): from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, of an aqueous extract of

Blidingia Minima, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an aqueous extract of Laminaria Saccharina, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, of an oily extract of Laminaria Ochroleuca, 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight of an aqueous plankton extract.

In an advantageous embodiment, the composition of the invention also contains at least one component capable of acting directly on the visible dysfunctions of the skin, such as, as already mentioned, hydration, hyperseborrhoea, structural alteration, cellular stress, without breaking the cell balance.

In other words, the composition also contains at least one, advantageously, the following four constituents respectively: an aqueous soy extract inducing the synthesis of aquaporins and thereby ensuring better circulation of the water in the skin and nutrients in the cell, an alcoholic extract of mushroom rich in agaric acid, such as for example an extract of Polyporus Officinalis, extract having an astringent action for tightening the pores of the skin and thus to limit the secretion of sebum at cutaneous surface level as well as the microbial proliferation inside the pilosebaceous canal, a peptide, such as, for example, a tetrapeptide, optionally acetylated capable of stimulating collagen synthesis with a view to improving the quality of the support tissues of the skin, advantageously acetyl tetrapeptide-9:

N-Acetyl L-Glutaminyl L-Aspartyl L-VaIyI L-Histidine, a saccharide, such as for example rhamnose to limit the phenomena of inflammation.

In an advantageous embodiment, the composition additionally contains, by weight of the total composition: between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of an aqueous soy extract, between 0.05 and 2%, advantageously between 0.1 and 1% of an alcoholic extract of mushroom, advantageously an extract of Polyporus Officinalis, between 1 and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% of an acetyl tetrapeptide, for example acetyl tetrapeptide-9: N-acetyl L-Glutaminyl L-Aspartyl L-VaIyI

L-Histidine, between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of rhamnose.

Of course, the composition of the invention may contain other ingredients such as in particular anti-radical agents (for example ascorbic acid and derivatives, SOD, tocopherol acetate, flavonoids), anti-oxidizing agent (BHT, etc.). , sequestering agent (EDTA ..).

Similarly, the composition may contain any excipient of suitable formulation to make it usable in the form of a particular serum and in particular water and fats such as for example glycerin, silicones and derivatives.

In a particular embodiment, the composition contains: from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, of an aqueous extract of

Blidingia Minima, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an aqueous extract of

Laminaria Saccharina, 0.2 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of an oily extract of

Laminaria Ochroleuca, from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight of an aqueous plankton extract. between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of an aqueous soy extract, between 0.05 and 2%, advantageously between 0.1 and 1% of an alcoholic mushroom extract, advantageously an extract of Polyporus Officinalis, between 1 and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% of an acetylated tetrapeptide, for example acetyl tetrapeptide-9: N-acetyl L-Glutaminyl L-Aspartyl L-VaIyI L-Histidine, between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% rhamnose, between 65 and 85% by weight of water, between 5 and 20% by weight of fat.

The Applicant has furthermore demonstrated that the use of the composition of the invention makes it possible to optimize the action of a distinct cosmetic composition. applied later. In other words and as already said, the composition of the invention makes it possible to restore the equilibrium of the cell cycle and to make the skin receptive to the action of a subsequent composition.

Therefore, the composition can be implemented as part of a care protocol. The subject of the invention is therefore also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin with a view to improving its state and consisting, in a first step, in applying said composition to the skin, then in a second step, in applying a second composition intended to correct a visible dysfunction of the skin such as for example dehydration or hyper seborrhea.

The invention and the advantages thereof will emerge from the following examples in support of the appended figures.

Figure 1 is a photograph showing the Kirlian circle of a young cell.

Figure 2 is a photograph showing the Kirlian circle of an aged cell.

Figure 3 is a photograph showing the Kirlian circle of an aged cell treated with the cell concentrate.

Figure 4 is a graphical representation of the in vivo evaluation of cutaneous firmness.

Figures 5 and 6 are photographs taken on fingerprints in the face before treatment (Figure 6) and after treatment (Figure 5), by the cell concentrate.

Figure 7 is a graphical representation of the effect of the cell concentrate on the soothing of the skin.

Figure 8 is a graphical representation of the effect of cell concentrate on associated care.

I / The tested composition "cellular concentrate"

The composition tested in the following tests designated "cell concentrate" to the following composition in percentage by weight:

II / Kirlian photo of an elderly cell treated with cell concentrate

The energies needed and delivered by the cell cycle can be "lighted" by Kirlian photography or dynamic electro-dynamic photography.

This photo highlights on the one hand the energy value of the cell concentrate and on the other hand, provides information on the activity zones of the cell concentrate in the cell.

It is thus possible to visualize, via the "strimers" of the Kirlain photo, the degree of contribution and use of the energy by the cell. If there is equilibrium in the cell, it will be symbolized by a homogeneous "Kirlian circle", with intense and relatively furnished strimers. It will also be the symbol of an optimal functioning cell cycle and a balanced vibration with the environment.

Figures 1, 2 and 3 are pictures of the kirlian circle of a young cell (Figure 1), aged cell (Figure 2) and aged cell treated with the cell concentrate (Figure 3). As shown by the latter, the cell concentrate makes it possible to restore the equilibrium of the cell cycle with a zone of homogeneous activity. HI / Effectiveness of the composition of the invention on improving the state of the skin

1 / Eclat of the skin: moisturizing power

Purpose: To evaluate and compare the natural state of hydration of the skin before and after using the Cellular Concentrate twice daily for 28 days.

Topics: 18 volunteers.

Protocol: measurements using a corneometer, at least 15 minutes after cleaning the skin, rinsing with water and drying.

Results:

The Cellular Concentrate makes it possible to increase the rate of natural skin hydration by almost 15% compared to the basal rate and this after a bi daily use for 1 month.

2 / Firmness of the skin in vivo

Aim: to evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin, especially the firmness, after 1 month use of the Cellular Concentrate, under normal conditions. Topics: 18 volunteers.

Protocol: measurement of the bio mechanical properties using the cutometer which will evaluate the relaxation of the skin (the more the relaxation decreases, the more the skin is taut and firm).

Results: The Cellular Concentrate product provides a significant improvement in the firmness of the skin (+ 13%) after daily use for 1 month (Figure 4).

3 / Transparency of the skin

Purpose: to evaluate and compare skin texture before and after using Concentrate

Cellular application twice daily for 28 days.

Topics: 18 volunteers.

Protocol: photos taken on fingerprints on the face.

Results: As shown in Figure 6, the grain of the skin is significantly refined compared to the untreated skin (Figure 5). The skin is thinner, sharper, more radiant, more transparent. 4 / Soothing of the skin

Purpose: To evaluate the soothing of the skin after using the cell concentrate, twice a day, for 28 days. Topics: 18 volunteers. Protocol: Self-Assessment Questionnaire

Results: As shown in Figure 7, the cell concentrate soothes between 80 and 90% of subjects.

5 / Optimizing the effectiveness of associated care

Aim: to evaluate and compare, in double blind, the kinetics (tO, t2h, t4h, t6h, t8h) of hydration of the Cellular Concentrate coupled with the Hydra Ressourçante Cream marketed by Institut Esthederm versus Hydra Ressourçante Cream after a single application.

Subjects: 10 volunteers (aged 23 to 55 years) with dry or moderately hydrated skin in the forearms.

Protocol: measurements using a corneometer. Results: as shown in Figure 8, Cellular Concentrate coupled with Cream

Hydra Ressourçante makes it possible to increase the cutaneous hydration rate of almost

70% in 2 hours and this action persists until 8h (+ 40% alone, + 50% coupled).

Claims

1 / Topical cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous extract of an alga called Blidingia Minima, - an aqueous extract of an alga called Laminaria Saccharina, an oily extract of an alga called Laminaria Ochroleuca.

2 / Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further contains an aqueous extract of plankton.

3 / Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it contains (in percentage by weight): from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an aqueous extract of Blidingia Minima, - from 0.2 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of an aqueous extract of

Laminaria Saccharina, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an oily extract of Laminaria Ochroleuca, from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, of an aqueous plankton extract.

4 / Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one of the following constituents respectively: aqueous extract of soy, - alcoholic extract of mushroom rich in agaric acid, tetrapeptide, optionally acetylated, rhamnose.

5 / Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it further contains: between 0.0005 and 1%, preferably between 0.005 and 0.1% of an aqueous extract of soybean, between 0.05 and 2%, advantageously between 0.1 and 1% of an alcoholic fungus extract, between 1 and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% of an acetyl tetrapeptide

(N-Acetyl L-Glutaminyl L-Aspartyl L-VaIyI L-Histidine) between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of rhamnose.

6 / Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a serum.

Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains: from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, of an aqueous extract of

Blidingia Minima, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an aqueous extract of Laminaria Saccharina, from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of an oily extract of

Laminaria Ochroleuca, from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight of an aqueous plankton extract. between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of an aqueous soy extract, between 0.05 and 2%, advantageously between 0.1 and 1% of an alcoholic mushroom extract, advantageously an extract of Polyporus Officinalis, between 1 and and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% of N-acetyl L-Glutaminyl L-Aspartyl L-VaIyI L-Histidine, between 0.0005 and 1%, advantageously between 0.005 and 0.1% of rhamnose, between 65 and 85% by weight of water, between 5 and 20% by weight of fat.

8 / Cosmetic treatment method of the skin to improve its state and consisting, in a first step, to apply the composition object of one of claims 1 to 7, on the skin, then in a second step , to apply a second composition intended to correct a visible dysfunction of the skin such as for example dehydration or hyper seborrhea.