WO2009022883A2 - Procédé d'élaboration de vêtement et vêtement correspondant - Google Patents

Procédé d'élaboration de vêtement et vêtement correspondant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009022883A2
WO2009022883A2 PCT/KR2008/004766 KR2008004766W WO2009022883A2 WO 2009022883 A2 WO2009022883 A2 WO 2009022883A2 KR 2008004766 W KR2008004766 W KR 2008004766W WO 2009022883 A2 WO2009022883 A2 WO 2009022883A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cloth
garment
bias
pieces
cut
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/KR2008/004766
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2009022883A3 (fr
Inventor
Dong Sub Lee
Original Assignee
Dong Sub Lee
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from KR1020070117203A external-priority patent/KR100891733B1/ko
Application filed by Dong Sub Lee filed Critical Dong Sub Lee
Publication of WO2009022883A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009022883A2/fr
Publication of WO2009022883A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009022883A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2300/00—Details of garments
    • A41D2300/50—Seams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/20—Woven

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of making a garment and a garment made using the same and, more particularly, to a method of making a garment that has good elasticity using structural characteristics of bias-cut fabric, and a garment made using the same.
  • Clothes include various types and shapes of clothing such as formal wear, uniforms, jackets, vests, blouses, shirts, blue jeans, etc. in addition to aloha shirts, T-shirts, round tees, sweaters, skirts, coats, and so on.
  • the clothes provide a beautiful style and good activity when dressed so as to be fit to the body of a wearer.
  • Such types of clothes are tight to the body and thus may greatly restrict the motion or movement of the wearer. Accordingly, active young people may feel stuffy and uncomfortable. Despite of the uncomfortableness, the young people interested in showing off their bodies prefer to wear the tight clothes.
  • the tight clothes are applied to special purpose clothes. Some clothes such as a training suit, a riding suit, a cycling suit, a swimsuit and underwear are often designed to closely fit to the body when dressed in order to reduce air resistance, prevent an accident and create a beautiful style. Even in this case, the tight dresses still restrict the movement of the wearers.
  • an elastic fabric is used in tight clothes in order to improve the freedom of movement of wearers.
  • spandex or elastane made of a high elasticity fiber greatly improves the freedom of movement of wearers.
  • the elastic fabric such as spandex is expensive, is easily transformed by strong heat and does not restore the original shape once extended.
  • the conventional tight clothes have been used for a long time, a knee or elbow portion shoots out to thereby spoil the style of dressing.
  • the conventional tight clothes have other drawbacks such as short lifetime and expensiveness. Disclosure of Invention Technical Problem
  • the present invention has been made to solve the foregoing problems with the prior art, and one or more aspects of the present invention provide a method of making a garment and a garment made using the same method, in which the garment is made from a conventional fabric instead of expensive and high elasticity fabric such as spandex so as to greatly improve freedom of movement and increase product lifetime due to excellent restorability.
  • One or more aspects of the present invention provide a method of making a garment from a conventional fabric and a garment made using the same method, in which the freedom of movement of a wearer is greatly improved by cutting and sewing the fabric such that respective pieces of cloth can expand or contract at a maximum amount along the maximum elasticity request direction of the garment.
  • One or more aspects of the present invention provide a method of making a garment and a garment made using the same method, in which pieces of cloth are properly bias- cut in order to improve the elasticity of the garment, improve the silhouette of the garment, prevent twisting and express beautiful patterns such as a V-shaped pattern or an overturned V-shaped ( ⁇ ) pattern.
  • the method may make a garment by cutting a woven fabric, which is composed of wefts and warps crossing each other in a rise- and-sink texture to form stitch places and has a width wise direction identical with a direction of the wefts, into a plurality of pieces of cloth conforming to body portions and sewing the pieces with each other.
  • the pieces of cloth are bias-cut in a right-left direction that is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the widthwise direction of the woven fabric, and the bias-cut pieces of cloth are sewn with each other such that an diagonal line connecting between two of the stitching places of each of the bias-cut pieces of cloth extends in a direction along which the garment is required to expand or contract at a maximum amount.
  • the pieces of cloth are cut in such a fashion that two of the cloth are pieces placed symmetrically on right and left sides to form one garment, an up-down direction of the right piece of cloth crossing that of the left piece of cloth, and the bias-cut pieces of cloth are sewn in such a fashion that two of the pieces of cloth are placed symmetrically on right and left sides to form one garment, a warp or weft direction of the right piece of cloth crossing that of the left piece of cloth.
  • the direction of the diagonal line is the same as the maximum elasticity direction of the bias-cut pieces of cloth.
  • the direction of the diagonal line is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the widthwise direction of the woven fabric and is the same as the right-left direction of the bias-cut pieces of cloth.
  • the angle between the right- left direction of the pieces of cloth and the widthwise direction of the woven fabric is the same as the angle between the warps of the woven fabric and direction of the diagonal line.
  • the angle between the right- left direction of the pieces of cloth and the widthwise direction of the woven fabric is 45 degrees or less.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth are sewn such that the right- left direction thereof is the same as the horizontal direction of the garment.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth form a tight garment (e.g., a jacket, a blouse, a uniform, jeans and a training suit) that may show off the wearer's body shape.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth form the entire part of exterior or lining cloth of the garment.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth form a part of exterior or lining cloth of the garment.
  • the garment is made by bias-cutting a plurality of pieces of cloth (pieces of cloth) are bias -cut according to the shapes of body portions such that the direction along which the garment expands or contracts at a maximum amount (maximum elasticity direction) is identical with the diagonal line connecting between two of the stitching places of each of the bias-cut pieces of cloth, and sewing the bias-cut pieces of cloth with each other such that the maximum elasticity direction becomes identical with the horizontal direction of the garment (i.e., the maximum elasticity request direction of the garment).
  • the garment can sufficiently ensure freedom of movement of a wearer due to excellent elasticity while maintaining the characteristics of a tight garment.
  • the garment is made from a conventional fabric instead of an expensive and high elasticity fabric so as to greatly improve freedom of movement utilizing the structural characteristics of the fabric and is sewn by selectively bias-cutting lining cloth so as to improve the silhouette of the garment.
  • the pieces of cloth of the exterior cloth or the lining cloth, which are bias-cut according to the present invention, are free from running so that edges of the sewn exterior or lining cloth can be maintained cleanly. While conventional tight clothes without elasticity may gape at a seam line when an external force is applied while being worn or washed, the bias-cut exterior or lining cloth of the present invention does not gape at a seam line to thereby improve the quality of products.
  • FIG. 1 is a conceptual top plan view illustrating conventional and inventive processes of cutting pieces of cloth from a woven fabric
  • FIG. 2 is a conceptual view illustrating a structure of the weft and warp of a piece of cloth cut by a conventional method
  • FIG. 3 is a front view illustrating one example of a jacket made by a conventional method
  • FIG. 4 is a front view illustrating one example of a jacket made by a method according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 5 is a conceptual view illustrating a structure of the weft and warp of a bias-cut piece of cloth according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 6 is a top plan view illustrating a method of cutting pieces of cloth from a woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 7 is a front view illustrating one example of trousers made according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 8 is a top plan view illustrating a method of cutting pieces of cloth from a woven fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention
  • FIGS. 9 and 10 are front and rear views illustrating another example of trousers made according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 11 is a front view illustrating an example of a blouse made according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 12 is a rear view illustrating a bias-cut piece of lining cloth for a jacket made according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 13 is a rear view illustrating a partially bias-cut piece of lining cloth for a jacket made according to an embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 36 FIG.
  • FIG. 14 illustrates another example of a woman's jacket made according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein the front and back of the jacket are shown;
  • FIG. 15 illustrates another example of a man's jacket made according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein the front and back of the jacket are shown; and
  • FIG. 16 illustrates one example of blue jeans made according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein the front and back of the jacket are shown.
  • tight clothes as stated in the following embodiments comprehensively refers to clothes that are designed so as to perfectly fit a wearer by a designer or a manufacturer in order to set off a body line of the wearer. These tight clothes must have elasticity in order to ensure activity of the wearer because they are in close contact with the body.
  • a direction that requests maximum elasticity is identical to a left-right direction.
  • this maximum elasticity request direction can be varied according to a kind and usage of the clothes.
  • the maximum elasticity request direction is not limited to the left-right direction alone.
  • the "clothes" are not limited to the tight clothes alone.
  • the method of making a garment is composed of cutting and sewing.
  • the cutting is a process that cuts various pieces of cloth for making exterior cloth, lining cloth and interlining cloth according to a predetermined pattern.
  • the pattern (model or design) is dependent on a kind of clothes and a body size of the wearer.
  • no restriction is imposed on a type and size of the pattern.
  • Embodiments of the present invention are directed to a method of cutting a piece of cloth out of fabric. Particularly, embodiment of the present invention closely relate to a method of arranging pieces of cloth (pattern) on fabric.
  • the sewing is to making clothes by backstitching the exterior cloth, the lining cloth, or the interlining cloth cut in a desired shape.
  • the backstitching is well-known.
  • no restriction is imposed on the backstitching.
  • Embodiments of the present invention are directed to a method of properly arranging and sewing pieces of cloth.
  • embodiment of the present invention closely relate to a direction of arranging bias-cut pieces of cloth.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is for bias-cutting pieces of exterior and lining cloth composed of clothes.
  • the term "bias cutting” refers to a technique that cuts a piece of cloth at a predetermined inclination angle at which a left-right direction of the pattern or cloth is not identical to a widthwise direction of the fabric.
  • the left-right direction of the cut cloth is adapted to be identical to the widthwise direction of the fabric.
  • cutting the cloth in such a manner that the left-right direction of the cloth is identical to the widthwise direction of the fabric is called “parallel cutting” as compared to the bias cutting.
  • a parallel-cut piece of cloth has structural characteristics identical to the fabric, while a bias-cut piece of cloth has structural characteristics different from the fabric.
  • Embodiments of the present invention are to make clothes having excellent elasticity using the structural characteristics of the bias-cut piece of cloth.
  • a second aspect of the present invention provides clothes having improved activity using the bias-cut piece of cloth.
  • the exterior cloth of the clothes is made of the bias-cut piece of cloth, there is a tendency toward sagging due to excessive elasticity.
  • the clothes made of the bias-cut piece of cloth shows severe sagging.
  • the bias cutting is not applied to modern activity clothes such as jackets, blouses, and blue jeans.
  • a stereotype that the bias cutting requires a great deal of costs and difficult work is widely known.
  • Embodiments of the present invention is directed to making clothes using a bias-cut piece of cloth that has not been yet utilized up to now.
  • embodiments of the present invention is to provide clothes having excellent elasticity reversely using structural characteristics of a sagging phenomenon recognized as a worst drawback of the bias- cut piece of cloth.
  • a third aspect of the present invention is to cut or sewn bias-cut pieces of exterior, lining or interlining cloth such that a bias direction of the piece of cloth forming left and right sides of the clothes has a symmetrical structure, thereby preventing elasticity of clothes from being deflected, and thus preventing the clothes from being twisted.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth is varied in elasticity according to a bias direction. Particularly, in the case in which the bias direction is at 45 degrees, the elasticity shows a tendency toward deflection according to materials of weft and warp threads.
  • the exterior cloth and the lining cloth composed of the left and right sides of the clothes are cut and sewn in the same direction, the elasticity of the clothes is deflected in one direction, so that the clothes are twisted or are reduced in wear sensation.
  • embodiments of the present invention provide a method of making a garment using bias cutting and a garment made using the same.
  • tight clothes have recently been very popular. These tight clothes require the exterior and lining cloth having high elasticity.
  • the tight clothes were made by parallel-cutting elastic fabric containing rubber or elastic yarns.
  • this elastic fabric is expensive and is vulnerable to durability, and thus its products suffer from increase in price and decrease in lifespan.
  • the elastic fabric has several factors of deterioration in quality.
  • Embodiments of the present invention are to make a garment using pieces of cloth that are bias-cut out of ordinary fabric.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth has high elasticity and durability as well as very low price as compared to the elastic fabric. Further, the bias-cut piece of cloth can overcome several drawbacks such as run such as unravel or wear-out that can be found from the conventional parallel-cut piece of cloth.
  • FIG. 1 is a conceptual top plan view illustrating a process of cutting pieces of cloth from a woven fabric.
  • a woven fabric 1 has a rectangular shape, a widthwise direction W and a lengthwise direction L. Generally, the woven fabric 1 has the lengthwise direction L longer than the widthwise direction W.
  • the woven fabric 1 has a structure in which a weft WE intersects with a warp WA at right angles.
  • the woven or textile fabric refers to fabric having a structure in which a weft WE meets a warp WA at right angles. This woven fabric is distinguished from knitted goods, non-woven fabric, lace, and so on.
  • the woven fabric repeats a rise-and-sink action that the weft or the warp is partially raised and sunken in order to maintain an interlaced state of the weft and warp.
  • the woven fabric 1 has stitch places P where the weft WE crosses the warp WA. This stitch place P is varied in number and position according to plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
  • the interlace place P also forms a specific stripe on the woven fabric 1.
  • the plain weave or tabby forms the stitch places P of the warp WA and weft WE on every other yarn.
  • the plain weave has no stripe due to the stitch place P.
  • the twill weave shows an inclined trough (line) because the numbers of wefts and warps that are raised and sunken are asymmetrical. This inclined line is called a twill line.
  • the woven fabric can have various stripes according to a technique in which the weft and warp are raised and sunken.
  • a detailed reference will not be made to this stripe.
  • the warps are indicated by a solid line so as to easy distinguish the inventive bias-cut piece of cloth 50 from the conventional parallel-cut piece of cloth 10.
  • the conventional parallel-cut piece of cloth 10 and a garment using this cloth will be indicated by a thick longitudinal stripe (warp direction).
  • the inventive bias-cut piece of cloth 50 and a garment using this cloth will be indicated by a warp stripe of a predetermined angle.
  • the stripe illustrated in the figures can be expressed similar to an actual stripe.
  • the pattern is formed using color yarns or the twill line exists, it should be understood that the stripe illustrated in the figures can be different from a stripe that can be found from an actual garment.
  • FIG. 2 a structure of the weft WE and warp WA of the woven fabric is conceptually illustrated.
  • thicknesses of the weft WE and warp WA are neglected.
  • Two wefts WE and warps WA cross each other at right angles, thereby defining a quadrilateral space R.
  • This quadrilateral space R is a part where the weft WE and warp WA are not occupied (or an interval between the weft WE and warp WA), and thus is vulnerable to structural deformation.
  • This diagonal D is an invisible imaginary line.
  • two diagonals D that intersect with each other exist in one quadrilateral space R.
  • only one diagonal D will be considered for the convenience's sake.
  • the weft WE direction and the warp WA direction of the woven fabric 1 are identical to the widthwise direction W and the lengthwise direction L of the woven fabric 1, respectively.
  • the diagonal D direction of the woven fabric 1 meets the widthwise direction W and the lengthwise direction L of the woven fabric 1 at a predetermined angle.
  • the warp WA constituting the woven fabric 1 is called a lengthwise yarn.
  • the lengthwise yarn consists of a low-elasticity yarn so as to be able to withstand necessary tension when the fabric is woven.
  • the woven fabric 1 has little elasticity in its warp WA direction, namely in its lengthwise direction L.
  • the conventional parallel cutting has been carried out such that a vertical direction X of the garment is identical to the warp direction of the woven fabric using this characteristic of the warp, thereby preventing the clothes from sagging.
  • the weft WE is called a filling yarn or a shuttle yarn, and does not require high tension in the weaving process.
  • a yarn having relatively high elasticity is used.
  • the weft WE direction i.e.
  • the widthwise direction W, of the woven fabric has high elasticity as compared to its lengthwise direction L. Accordingly, in the related art, the elasticity of the clothes is designed to be secured to the utmost extent by matching the weft direction with the left-right direction of the clothes.
  • the conventional method of making a garment is characterized by cutting and sewing the woven fabric such that the lengthwise direction of the woven fabric is identical to a vertical direction X of the garment.
  • the woven fabric 1 is cut such that the left-right direction A of the piece of cloth 10 is identical to the width wise direction W of the woven fabric 1.
  • the piece of cloth is sewn such that the left-right direction A of the piece of cloth 10 is identical to a horizontal direction of the garment.
  • the upper piece of cloth 10 is cut according to the conventional "parallel cutting” method, while the lower piece of cloth 50 is cut according to the inventive "bias cutting” method.
  • the parallel-cut piece of cloth 10 has the left-right direction A identical to the widthwise direction W of the woven fabric 1, and the up-down direction B identical to the lengthwise direction L of the woven fabric 1.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 has the left-right direction A and the up-down direction B, which as inclined with respect to the widthwise direction W and the lengthwise direction L of the woven fabric 1 at predetermined angles, respectively.
  • the left-right direction A and the up-down direction B of the piece of cloth 10 are not decided by a shape of the piece of cloth, but a direction where the piece of cloth is located when a wearer wears the garment.
  • the left-right direction of the piece of cloth is identical to the horizontal direction of the garment, and the up-down direction of the piece of cloth is identical to the vertical direction of the garment.
  • the phrase "to be identical to something" means that two directions are in a line as well as in parallel.
  • the pieces of cloth 10 and 50 separated from the woven fabric 1 are separately illustrated.
  • the left-right direction A of the separated piece of cloth 10 is identical to the widthwise direction W or the weft WE direction of the woven fabric 1.
  • the parallel-cut piece of cloth 10 has different size and shape and the same structure as compared to the woven fabric 1.
  • the left-right direction A of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 shown on the lower side is inclined at a predetermined angle without being identical to the widthwise direction W or the weft WE direction of the woven fabric 1.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 has different size and shape as well as the different structure as compared to the woven fabric 1.
  • FIG. 3 is a front view illustrating one example of a jacket 100 made by a con- ventional method.
  • the jacket 100 has a horizontal direction X and a vertical direction Y on the basis of a gravitational direction.
  • Three pieces of exterior, lining and interlining cloth constituting the jacket 100 has a left-right direction A identical to the horizontal direction X of the jacket 100.
  • the piece of cloth 10 has a weft WE direction identical to the horizontal direction X of the jacket 100, and a warp WA direction identical to the vertical direction Y of the jacket 100. It can be found that a diagonal D direction connecting stitch places of the weft and warp is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the horizontal direction X of the jacket 100.
  • the garment tightens the trunk, particularly belly, arms, legs, etc. in an inward direction.
  • This tightening phenomenon is essential to set off the body line of a wearer as it stands, but restricts activity of the wearer.
  • the garment requires sufficient elasticity so as to be able to relieve this tightening phenomenon.
  • a direction which the wearer requests the maximtm elasticity in the garment is generally matched with the horizontal direction X of the garment.
  • the maximtm elasticity request direction DE of the garment is identical to the horizontal direction X of the garment.
  • the conventional parallel-cut piece of cloth 10 has the weft WE direction identical to the maximtm elasticity request direction DE of the garment. Since the elasticity of the weft direction is decided according to material of the weft, there is a limitation in increasing the elasticity. A rubber yarn or an elastic yarn mainly used for the weft has a drawback in which it loses a restoring force with the lapse of time, and thus deforms the garment.
  • FIG. 4 is a front view illustrating one example of a jacket 150 made of bias-cut pieces of cloth according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 has a diagonal D direction identical to the horizontal direction X of the jacket 150.
  • a maximtm elasticity direction E of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 is identical to the maximtm elasticity request direction DE of the garment 150.
  • the elasticity of the diagonal D direction is responsible for a structural change of the woven fabric.
  • the diagonal D direction is always the maximtm elasticity direction E of the piece of cloth regardless of material of the weft or warp.
  • the jacket 150 is characterized by cutting and sewing such that the maximum elasticity direction E of the piece of cloth is identical to the maximum elasticity request direction DE of the garment.
  • the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 is stretched in such a manner that, when tension is applied in a diagonal D direction, a quadrilateral space R encircled by the weft WE and warp WA is deformed into a diamond shape.
  • This deformation is attributable to a structural characteristic of the quadrilateral space R regardless of material of the weft and warp.
  • the elasticity of the diagonal D direction is always greater than that of the weft or warp direction. For example, if the materials of the weft and warp are changed to increase the elasticity, the deformation of the quadrilateral space R is increased in proportion to such a change, so that the diagonal D direction is always the maximum elasticity direction E.
  • an embodiment of the present invention causes the maximum elasticity direction E of the piece of cloth to be identical to the maximum elasticity request direction DE of the garment using the structural characteristics of the bias-cut piece of cloth.
  • a bias angle of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 i.e. an angle between the left-right direction A of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 and the widthwise direction W of the woven fabric 1 is decided by an inclined angle of the diagonal D.
  • the inclined angle of the diagonal D crossing two stitch places of the square space R is 45 degrees.
  • the cutting must be carried out such that the inclined angle between the left-right direction A of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 and the widthwise direction W of the woven fabric 1 is 45 degrees.
  • the diagonal D direction of the bias-cut piece of cloth 50 can be identical to the maximum elasticity request direction DE of the garment.
  • the bias cutting causes the maximtm elasticity direction E, i.e. the diagonal D direction, of the piece of cloth 50 to be identical to the maximtm elasticity request direction DE of the garment.
  • the bias cutting according to an embodiment of the present invention provides very high elasticity, a pattern used for the conventional parallel cutting cannot be used as it stands. Thus, the pattern must be newly made or corrected. Further, in the case in which the bias cutting according to an embodiment of the present invention is carried out, it is difficult to cut a piece of woven fabric due to high elasticity. Thus, preferably, several pieces of woven fabric are stacked and compressed, and then are cut using an automatic cutter controlled by a computer.
  • FIG. 6 is a top plan view illustrating one example of a bias cutting method according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • a plurality of pieces of cloth 50 (or patterns) making two trousers are disposed on one woven fabric 1.
  • the woven fabric 1 has a width wise direction W and a lengthwise direction L in a rectangular shape.
  • the weft WE of warp WA of the woven fabric 1 are interlaced perpendicular to each other.
  • Two stitch places P of the weft WE and warp WA are connected to form a diagonal D direction.
  • the pieces of cloth 50 disposed on the woven fabric 1 have a left-right direction A and an up-down direction B.
  • the left- right direction A is inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the widthwise direction W of the woven fabric 1.
  • all the up-down directions B are inclined in the same direction, i.e. in a right-up direction.
  • the woven fabric 1 capable of making two trousers has four front sheets D , D , A and B and four back sheets D , D , A and B, all of which are disposed so as to be inclined in the right-up direction.
  • FIG. 8 is a top plan view illustrating another example of a bias-cutting method according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • a plurality of pieces of cloth 50 (or patterns) making two trousers are disposed on one woven fabric 1.
  • their left-right directions A are inclined at a predetermined angle with respect to the widthwise direction W of the woven fabric 1.
  • the upper ones have an up-down direction inclined in a left-up direction
  • the lower ones have an up-down direction inclined in a right-up direction.
  • the upper pieces of cloth 50 and the lower pieces of cloth 50 are disposed in such a manner that the symmetrical left-sided and right-sided pieces of cloth 50 are turned at a rotational angle of 90 degrees so as to form a pair of trousers 250 or 300.
  • the warp WA directions of the symmetrical left-sided and right-sided pieces of cloth are inclined in opposite directions so as to form a pair of trousers 250 or 300.
  • the inclined stripes of the trousers 200 or 300 intersect with each other in the middle of the trousers, thereby forming V-shaped or overturned V-shaped stripes.
  • FIG. 10 illustrates another example of trousers 300 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the left-sided and right-sided pieces of cloth 50 of the trousers 300 have bias directions opposite those of the trousers 250.
  • the trousers 250 form V-shaped stripes in which the left-sided and right-sided warp directions (indicated by thick solid lines) are oriented downwards toward the middle of the trousers.
  • the trousers 300 illustrated in FIG. 10 form overturned V-shaped stripes in which the left-sided and right-sided warp directions (indicated by thick solid lines) are oriented upwards toward the middle of the trousers.
  • the warp is generally thicker than the weft, so that such stripes can be expressed in an actual student uniform as they stand.
  • the pieces of cloth 50 disposed on the left and right sides on the basis of the vertical axis of the middle of the garment has the bias directions perpendicular to each other, so that the trousers can express the V-shaped or overturned V-shaped stripes.
  • the left-sided and right-sided bias directions of the garment are adapted to be opposite to each other, so that the garment can not only prevent twist but also express beautiful V-shaped and overturned V-shaped patterns.
  • the trousers or jackets fail to express these patterns using only the woven fabric.
  • the bias cutting according to an embodiment of the present invention makes it possible to make a garment having high-elasticity and is very effective in develop a new fashion having stripes.
  • FIG. 11 illustrates a blouse 350 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the blouse 350 is made of exterior cloth.
  • the blouse 350 is designed so as to set off the body line of the wearer.
  • the blouse 350 is made by sewing bias-cut pieces of cloth 50.
  • a horizontal direction X of the blouse is identical to a diagonal direction D of the piece of cloth.
  • the maximum elasticity of the piece of cloth is identical to the maximum elasticity request direction DE of the blouse.
  • the blouse 350 tightens the wearer so as to set off the body line of the wearer, but provides high elasticity.
  • the blouse guarantees free activity without giving oppressive feeling.
  • the blouse 350 is also adapted so that the left-sided and right-sided bias directions thereof are opposite to each other.
  • the blouse 350 can not only prevent twist but also express the V-shaped or overturned V-shaped stripes.
  • the garment is composed of the exterior, lining and interlining cloth.
  • the lining cloth keeps the garment maintaining an outer silhouette along with a heat4nsulating effect, and prevents a see-through phenomenon.
  • the lining cloth is inserted into a color, shoulder, chest of the jacket so as to improve the silhouette and physical properties such as twist stiffness, bending stiffness, etc. of the garment.
  • all pieces of exterior, lining and interlining cloth are used.
  • the trousers have only the exterior and lining cloth.
  • the blouse and blue jeans have only the exterior cloth.
  • the bias cutting can be properly used according to a kind and shape of the garment.
  • the bias-cut exterior cloth is used in the case of the blouse and blue jean.
  • the bias-cut exterior cloth and the bias-cut lining cloth are used, or all the bias-cut pieces of exterior, lining and interlining cloth may be used.
  • the parallel-cut exterior cloth and the bias-cut lining cloth are used, or the parallel-cut exterior cloth and the bias-cut lining and interlining cloth may be used.
  • FIG. 12 illustrates an example of a bias-cut lining cloth 400 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the bias-cut lining cloth 400 overlaps with exterior cloth inside the jacket 150, and then is sewn.
  • the lining cloth 400 is designed so as to be perfectly fitted with the body line of the wearer.
  • This tight lining cloth 400 is obtained by sewing bias-cut pieces of cloth 50.
  • a horizontal direction X of the lining cloth 400 is identical to a diagonal D direction of the piece of cloth.
  • the maximum elasticity direction E of the piece of cloth is identical to the maximum elasticity request direction DE of the lining cloth.
  • the lining cloth 400 comes into close contact with the body of the wearer when worn, and thus is tightened.
  • the lining cloth 400 guarantees free activity without giving oppressive feeling.
  • the lining cloth 400 causes the body line of the wearer to be set off well when the exterior cloth is cut in a bias direction, so that it can provide a tight jacket.
  • a conventional parallel- cut piece of lining cloth has low elasticity, so that it fails to clearly set off the body line of the wearer and greatly restricts activity of the wearer.
  • the silhouette of the garment is made clear due to the parallel-cut exterior cloth, and the jacket having high elasticity can be provided due to the bias-cut lining cloth contacting the body.
  • FIG. 13 illustrates another example of a bias-cut lining cloth 500 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the lining cloth 500 is divided into a back section 310, sleeves 320, a waist section 330, and a chest section.
  • the back section 310 and the sleeves 320 require higher elasticity than the waist section 330 and the chest section.
  • the pieces of lining cloth of the back section 310 and the sleeves 320 increase activity by sufficiently securing the elasticity of the horizontal direction X using a bias-cut piece of cloth 50.
  • the waist section 330 sewn under the back section 310 reduces the elasticity of the left-right direction using a parallel-cut piece of cloth as in the prior art, thereby giving a clear silhouette of the waist section.
  • a bias angle of the piece of cloth is varied according to a shape of the quadrilateral space R defined by two weft WE and warp WA.
  • the quadrilateral space R is a square
  • the diagonal D direction is inclined at 45 degrees with respect to the weft WE direction.
  • the quadrilateral space R is a tetragon
  • the diagonal D direction is inclined at 45 degrees or less with respect to the weft WE direction.
  • the left-right direction A and the up-down direction B of the piece of cloth show relative equal elasticity even if they have more or less a difference according to materials of the weft and warp.
  • the lining cloth of each sleeve 320 preferably uses a piece of cloth having the bias angle of 45 degrees since the lining cloth of each sleeve 320 requires higher elasticity in the horizontal direction X.
  • the lining cloth of the back section 310 preferably has limited elasticity in order to meet elasticity requirement in the horizontal direction X as well as prevent sagging in the vertical direction Y.
  • a piece of cloth having the bias angle of 45 degrees or less is preferably used. Accordingly, the present invention can prevent the garment from sagging down while maintaining the elasticity of the garment by properly using several pieces of cloth having different bias angles.
  • FIG. 14 illustrates another embodiment of a jacket for women (hereinafter, referred to as "woman's jacket") 600 manufactured according to the present invention.
  • a waist 610 and sleeves 620 moving more than other portions are made of the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 to improve elasticity, but front and back sheets 630 and 640 moving less than others are made of the parallel-cut pieces of cloth 10 so as to improve elasticity and a style of wearing.
  • FIG. 15 illustrates another embodiment of a jacket for men (hereinafter, referred to as "man's jacket") 650 manufactured according to the present invention.
  • the man's jacket 650 is made up of the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50.
  • the man's jacket 650 is made by placing the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 on the right and left sides of the vertical central axis such that the right-sided warp WA direction is opposite to the left-sided warp WA direction.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth in the right and left sides are arranged in opposite directions, the elasticity of the garment is excellent and is not deflected in one direction, the garment is not twisted, and wear sensation is improved.
  • Pockets 660 are preferably made up of the parallel-cut pieces of cloth so as not to sag down.
  • FIG. 16 illustrates one example of a blue jeans 700 manufactured according an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the blue jeans 700 includes hip sections 710 and leg sections 730, which are vertically separated from the hip sections 710.
  • the hip sections 710 moving more than the remaining portions are made by sewing the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 to improve elasticity
  • the leg sections 730 moving relatively less are made by sewing the parallel-cut pieces of cloth 50.
  • the blue jeans 700 has excellent elasticity as well as a beautiful style of wearing.
  • the hip sections 710 of the blue jeans 700 are made to prevent twisting by placing the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 on the right and left sides of the vertical central axis such that the direction of the right side is opposite that of the left side.
  • knee sections 750 of the leg sections 730 which move more than the rest of the leg sections 730 are made up of the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 in order to improve elasticity and endurance so that the knee sections 750 do not to protrude even if used for a long time.
  • pockets 760 which may easily sag and a belt portion 770 which is required to tightly surround the waist are made up of the parallel- cut pieces of cloth 10 so as not to sag or expand.
  • the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 of the present invention do not run since the warps and the wefts are stitched with each other in a net structure.
  • sleeves of a garment, trousers or an upper shirt made of the bias-cut pieces of cloth 50 do not run even if not hemmed (i.e., a lower edge is folded up and stitched). Accordingly, some types of garments such as a blouse, jeans and a T-shirt, which are made using exterior cloth only, can be sewn in the originally-cut state without hemming of sleeves, trousers or an upper wear, so as to simplify a manufacturing process as well as form new types of garments.
  • the garment can set off the wearer's body line and improving freedom of movement by cutting the woven fabric 1 and sewing the cut pieces of cloth such that the diagonal D connecting between two stitch places of the warp and weft extends in the horizontal direction X, that is, the maximtm elasticity request direction DE of the garment.
  • the bias cutting and the conventional parallel cutting are properly combined in consideration of different levels of elasticity required according to portions of the garment so as to prevent sagging as well as improve a style of wearing.
  • bias-cut lining cloth according to the present invention can be sufficiently elastic even if wrinkles are not added, a cunbersome wrinkling process can be excluded.
  • the garment made by a conventional method gape at a seam line when is worn or being washed due to low elasticity thereof
  • the garment made of the bias-cut pieces of cloth of the present invention does not gape at the seam line to thereby prevent a quality-related problem in which a sewn portion is torn.
  • the garment using the bias-cut pieces of cloth of the present invention can express various stripe patterns according to the direction of arranging the bias-cut pieces of cloth to thereby presenting a new design different from conventional typical patterns.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé d'élaboration de vêtement et un vêtement correspondant. On prend un textile tissé comprenant des fils de trame (WE) et de chaîne (WA) qui se croisent dans une texture à fils de dessus et de dessous pour former des points de liage (P); la direction de ce tissu dans le sens de la largeur (W) est identique à une direction des fils de trame (WE). On coupe ce tissu en plusieurs pièces qui correspondent à des parties du corps, pour les assembler en les cousant. Les pièces (50) sont coupées en diagonale dans une direction droite-gauche (A) inclinée selon un angle préétabli par rapport à la direction du sens de la largeur du tissu (1). Ces pièces ainsi coupées sont cousues de sorte qu'une diagonale (D) de liaison entre deux des points de liage de chaque pièce coupée s'étende dans une direction (DE) le long de laquelle le vêtement doit subir une expansion ou une contraction maximum.
PCT/KR2008/004766 2007-08-16 2008-08-14 Procédé d'élaboration de vêtement et vêtement correspondant WO2009022883A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR20070082246 2007-08-16
KR10-2007-0082246 2007-08-16
KR10-2007-0117203 2007-11-16
KR1020070117203A KR100891733B1 (ko) 2007-08-16 2007-11-16 바이어스 재단된 천조각으로 이루어진 안감을 포함하는 의복

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WO2009022883A2 true WO2009022883A2 (fr) 2009-02-19
WO2009022883A3 WO2009022883A3 (fr) 2009-04-30

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Cited By (6)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011151851A3 (fr) * 2010-05-31 2012-07-19 Marelli & Berta S.A.S. Di Freudenberg S.P.A. Fil élastique du type toile et tissu correspondant pour triplures et son procédé de fabrication
WO2014079117A1 (fr) * 2012-11-26 2014-05-30 Li Yuli Procédé de traitement de découpe d'un matériau d'habillement
EP3121318A1 (fr) 2015-07-22 2017-01-25 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Vêtement et procédé de préparation
US10042100B2 (en) 2011-02-28 2018-08-07 Zeon Corporation Multilayered film and method of manufacturing multilayered film
IT201800009722A1 (it) * 2018-10-23 2020-04-23 Teresa Cristaldi Modello sartoriale e/o industriale e procedimento di realizzazione di detto modello sartoriale e/o industriale
CN113384022A (zh) * 2021-06-07 2021-09-14 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种裤子拉裤头裙制作工艺

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US4173976A (en) * 1977-10-19 1979-11-13 Munsingwear, Inc. Pouch design brief
US20020014300A1 (en) * 2000-08-02 2002-02-07 Mitsuru Itoh Methods of cutting, Bonding, and sewing core pieces, tapes, and linings to woven fabric cloths, cut-and-sew type cloths,and bias front cloths by utilizing crossing tensions of left bias and right bias

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JP3543099B2 (ja) * 1996-11-29 2004-07-14 眞治 山田 バイアス布地

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4173976A (en) * 1977-10-19 1979-11-13 Munsingwear, Inc. Pouch design brief
US20020014300A1 (en) * 2000-08-02 2002-02-07 Mitsuru Itoh Methods of cutting, Bonding, and sewing core pieces, tapes, and linings to woven fabric cloths, cut-and-sew type cloths,and bias front cloths by utilizing crossing tensions of left bias and right bias

Cited By (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011151851A3 (fr) * 2010-05-31 2012-07-19 Marelli & Berta S.A.S. Di Freudenberg S.P.A. Fil élastique du type toile et tissu correspondant pour triplures et son procédé de fabrication
US10042100B2 (en) 2011-02-28 2018-08-07 Zeon Corporation Multilayered film and method of manufacturing multilayered film
WO2014079117A1 (fr) * 2012-11-26 2014-05-30 Li Yuli Procédé de traitement de découpe d'un matériau d'habillement
EP4001481A1 (fr) 2015-07-22 2022-05-25 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Vêtement et procédé de préparation
EP3121318A1 (fr) 2015-07-22 2017-01-25 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Vêtement et procédé de préparation
CN106400264A (zh) * 2015-07-22 2017-02-15 尚科纺织企业工业及贸易公司 服装及其制作方法
US10472741B2 (en) 2015-07-22 2019-11-12 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Garment and process of preparation
IT201800009722A1 (it) * 2018-10-23 2020-04-23 Teresa Cristaldi Modello sartoriale e/o industriale e procedimento di realizzazione di detto modello sartoriale e/o industriale
CN112911958A (zh) * 2018-10-23 2021-06-04 T·克里斯塔尔迪 服装和/或工业设计以及制造所述服装和/或工业设计的方法
WO2020084486A1 (fr) * 2018-10-23 2020-04-30 Cristaldi Teresa Conception vestimentaire et/ou industrielle et procédé de fabrication de ladite conception vestimentaire et/ou industrielle
US11553749B2 (en) 2018-10-23 2023-01-17 Teresa CRISTALDI Sartorial and/or industrial design and method for manufacturing said sartorial and/or industrial design
JP7477242B2 (ja) 2018-10-23 2024-05-01 クリスタルディ、テレサ デザインおよびデザインを製造するための方法
CN113384022A (zh) * 2021-06-07 2021-09-14 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种裤子拉裤头裙制作工艺
CN113384022B (zh) * 2021-06-07 2023-09-12 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种裤子拉裤头裙制作工艺

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