WO2006134583A1 - Compositions cosmetiques contenant des extraits d'airelle vigne d'ida (vaccinium vitis idea) - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques contenant des extraits d'airelle vigne d'ida (vaccinium vitis idea) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006134583A1
WO2006134583A1 PCT/IE2006/000067 IE2006000067W WO2006134583A1 WO 2006134583 A1 WO2006134583 A1 WO 2006134583A1 IE 2006000067 W IE2006000067 W IE 2006000067W WO 2006134583 A1 WO2006134583 A1 WO 2006134583A1
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Prior art keywords
skin
lingonberry
extract
weight
fruit
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PCT/IE2006/000067
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English (en)
Inventor
Aurelie Laloeuf
Original Assignee
Oriflame Global Technical Centre, Ltd.
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Priority to SE0702758A priority Critical patent/SE531639C2/sv
Publication of WO2006134583A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006134583A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P39/00—General protective or antinoxious agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to topical compositions for application to human skin and to their use in improving the condition and appearance of skin.
  • consumers are increasingly seeking "anti-aging" cosmetic products which treat or delay the visible signs of aging skin such as wrinkles, lines, sagging, hyperpigmentation and age spots in addition to cosmetic products improving the appearance and condition of dry and flaky skin and to soothe irritated and itchy skin.
  • Skin care cosmetic and dermatological compositions for improving the condition and appearance of skin comprising botanical extracts are well known in the art. Cranberries are well known for their health promoting activities. Arctic berry seed oils, including cranberry ⁇ Vaccinium oxycoccus) oil and lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea) seed oil, are commonly found in cosmetic products. Arctic berry seed oils contain predominantly fatty acids such as linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids.
  • Cranberry seed oil is known in the art for use in cosmetic compositions.
  • International Publication Number WO 00/72862 discloses isolated cranberry seed oil and components thereof in a form suitable for use as a foodstuff, dietary supplement, or a pharmaceutical composition.
  • the isolated cranberry seed oil or compositions comprising one or a combination of components derived from the cranberry seed oil can be used as antioxidizing agents, for example.
  • Other cranberry extracts including cranberry juice and cranberry fruit extracts are known for use in cosmetic compositions.
  • Japanese Patent no. JP2002275080 describes a skin care preparation comprising pressed juice of the cranberry fruit and/or the extract from the cranberry fruit together with one or more kinds of medicinally effective compounds.
  • the skin care preparation has inhibitory effects on melanin formation.
  • JP2002003389 describes a cosmetic which acts as a radical scavenger having excellent radical scavenging properties.
  • the composition comprises a pressed and filtered substance and/or extract of a cranberry fruit consisting essentially of an anthocyanine polymer.
  • Aqueous lingonberry extracts are different from the seed oil or cranberry extracts in their content of flavonoids and phenolic acids.
  • the invention provides the use of a therapeutically effective amount of an aqueous extract of a combination of lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis idea) fruit and leaf extract and/or derivatives thereof, in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for treating skin conditions.
  • the cosmetic composition is suitable for use in conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, sagging, photodamaged skin, dry skin, flaky skin, irritated skin, itchy skin and age spots.
  • about 50% by weight of the lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extract, and/or derivatives thereof is present as the leaf extract and the other 50% as the fruit extract.
  • at least 50% by weight of the extract is present as leaf extract.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise between 0.0001% to 50% by weight of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extract, preferably between 0.01% to 10% by weight of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extract, most preferably between 0.1% to 5% by weight of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extract.
  • compositions are particularly useful for topical application to human skin for cosmetically treating and/or preventing skin conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, sagging, photo-damaged skin, dry skin, flaky skin, irritated skin, itchy skin and age spots.
  • the compositions are also useful for application to the skin as a cosmetic treatment which promotes epidermal regeneration and cellular renewal by chelating iron, protecting against free radicals but in particular protecting against UV irradiation, inducing epidermal differentiation and inhibiting collagenase.
  • Aqueous berry extracts are different from the seed oil fractions in their content of flavonoids and phenolic acids. They contain for example kaempferol, quercetin, myricetin, coumaric acid and ferulic acid etc. Marked differences in concentration of the biochemicals are found in different families and genera. Cranberry is one of the richest sources of flavonoids and in particular is rich in quercetin and myricetin. Type A proanthocyanidins are also particularly found in cranberries whereas the B types are found in other types of berries.
  • the invention provides a topical composition comprising:
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a dermatologically/cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extracts.
  • the carrier may be selected from the group consisting of water, liquid or solid emollients, silicone oils, emulsifiers, solvents, humectants, thickeners, powders, propellants and the like.
  • the carrier will usually form from 5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise other specific skin-benefit actives such as sunscreens, moisturising agents, skin lightening agents.
  • vehicle may also further include adjuncts such as fragrances, opacifiers, preservatives, colourants, buffers and other anti-aging ingredients.
  • the topical composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a manner well known in the art for preparing skin care products.
  • the active components are generally incorporated in a dermatologically acceptable carrier in conventional manner.
  • the active components can suitably first be dissolved or dispersed in a portion of the water or another solvent or liquid to be incorporated in the composition.
  • compositions are oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
  • the composition may be in the form of conventional skin-care products such as a cream, gel or lotion or the like.
  • the composition can also be in the form of a cleanser e.g. a bath or shower gel, possibly containing a delivery system for the actives to promote adherence to the skin during rinsing.
  • the composition may also be a foundation or other colouring product e.g. mascara or lipstick.
  • Most preferably the product is a "leave-on" topical product; a product to be applied to the skin without a deliberate rinsing step soon after its application to the skin.
  • composition may be packaged in any suitable manner such as in a jar, a bottle, tube, roll-ball, or sachets.
  • the invention further provides a cosmetic method of treating/preventing skin conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, sagging, photo-damaged skin, dry skin, flaky skin, irritated skin, itchy skin and age spots, the method comprising applying to the skin a topical composition comprising an extract of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry).
  • the extract may comprise about 50 % by weight lingonberry fruit extract and about 50% by weight lingonberry leaf extract.
  • the method of the present invention may be carried out one or more times daily to the skin which requires treatment.
  • the improvement in skin appearance will usually become visible after 3 to 6 months, depending on skin condition, the concentration of the active components used in the inventive method, the amount of composition used and the frequency with which it is applied.
  • a small quantity of the composition for example from 0.1 to 5 ml is applied to the skin from a suitable container or applicator and spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hands or fingers or a suitable device.
  • a rinsing step may optionally follow depending on whether the composition is formulated as a "leave-on" or a cleansing product.
  • inventive compositions and methods thus provide anti-aging benefits which result in the promotion of smooth and supple skin with improved skin elasticity and a reduced or delayed appearance of wrinkles and aged skin with improved skin colour.
  • a general improvement in the appearance, texture and condition, in particular with respect to the radiance, clarity, and general youthful appearance of skin is achieved.
  • inventive methods and compositions provide a wide range of skin care benefits.
  • treating includes within its scope reducing, delaying and/or preventing the appearance of wrinkled, aged, photodamaged, dry and/or dry and irritated skin and generally enhancing the quality of skin by improving its appearance and texture, by preventing or reducing wrinkling and increasing flexibility, firmness, smoothness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions, methods and the uses of the lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extracts according to the invention may be useful for treating skin which is already in a wrinkled, aged, photodamaged, dry and irritated condition or for treating youthful skin to prevent or reduce deteriorative changes due to the normal aging but particularly the photo aging process,
  • Lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea Lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea extract to be employed in accordance with the present invention is present in the topical composition in an effective amount derived from the fruit and /or from the leaf. Most preferably the combination of both extracts will be used and most preferably a 50:50 combination of the leaf and fruit extract will be used.
  • Lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea comprises an aqueous extract rich in polyphenols, particularly flavonols and flavanols, and in oligosaccharides.
  • Both leaf and fruit extract contain aromatic acid compounds such as hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycinnamic acid, typical flavanols are epicatechin whereas typical flavonols are quercitrin and quercetin.
  • the leaf extract contains more flavonols compared with the fruit such that when combined nearly equal quantities of flavanols and flavonols are present in the lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extracts. Nevertheless, the typical composition of the combined polyphenols that could be identified is:
  • compositions Due to the inherent biological variation of the polyphenols in plants these compositions should only be taken as a typical example and their concentrations will vary from batch to batch and year to year but approximately the same ratios between chemical classes are anticipated.
  • Lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea Lingonberry ⁇ Vaccinium vitis idea extract to be employed in accordance with the present invention is present in the topical composition in an effective amount.
  • the total amount of the active is present in an amount between 0.0001% and 50% by weight of the composition. More preferably the amount is from 0.01% to 10% and most preferably from 0.1% to 5% in order to maximise benefits at a minimum cost.
  • Skin aging is a complex process controlled by a number of factors broken down into intrinsic and extrinsic factors that include genetics, exposures to environmental stress (UV, mechanical stress), hormonal changes or metabolism. The combined results of these different factors are the deterioration of the structure of the skin, its function and its appearance (Rittie et al., 2002). The influence of the environment and UV irradiation in particular is very ir ⁇ portant in the process of skin aging (Rittie et al., 2002). It is now known that these effects are directly related to the flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction, to the degradation of the fiber system of the skin, the extracellular matrix (ECM) and to the alteration of epidermis.
  • ECM extracellular matrix
  • the ECM is produced by fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It is composed of macromolecules including collagens, elastin, proteoglycans and fibronectin. Collagen and elastin are the major components of the ECM and are contained in tissues in the form of insoluble, rigid and stable fibers. They are tightly interwoven, organized in a network of microfibrils that imparts solidity and mechanical resistance to connective tissues. ECM thus acts like a physical support, but also carries out biological functions of intercellular exchange and communication that are essential for tight connection between the dermis and epidermis and the integrity of skin tissue. Chronological aging or environmental stress (especially sunlight) destroys this balance. Cellular metabolic activity decreases and the renewal of collagen fibers are reduced. In parallel, enzymatic activities increase dramatically and result in an excessive and anarchic degradation of collagen fibers and a loss of structure in the ECM. The skin loses its suppleness and elasticity and becomes flaccid.
  • free radicals [superoxide (O 2 - and hydroxyl (OH-) anions and other reactive oxygenated species (ROS)] and aging of the skin.
  • the origin of free radicals may be endogenous (activation of arachidonic acid metabolism, activation of phagocytosis or accumulation of reduced metabolites) or exogenous (radiation, UV from sunlight, air pollution, tobacco smoke, pesticides and more).
  • Swedish cranberry fruit (Vaccinium vitis idea) extract is more effective than European cranberry fruit ⁇ Vaccinium oxycoccus) extract at protecting human keratinocytes from oxidative stress.
  • Active oxygen species and other free radicals are presumed to participate in actinic aging.
  • cell viability tests were conducted. Cultures of human keratinocytes were artificially subjected to a stress by the hypoxanthine-xanthine oxidase system. The free radicals formed during this stress are responsible for increased cell death. The anti-oxidant activity of the product tested was determined by measuring cell viability.
  • the aim of this study was to determine the photo-protective activity of lingonberry leaf & fruit extract compared to the lingonberry leaf extract and to the lingonberry fruit extract against UVB irradiation of human keratinocytes.
  • Keratinocytes were grown in KSFM medium (Invitrogen) inoculated at a density of 70,000 cells/well in 24-well plates. Irradiation was with a « Biosun » UV lamp (Vilbert-Lourmat, France). UVB intensities were 0.6J/cm2, respectively, in the presence of:
  • the cells were kept at 37°C for 6 hours in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO 2 .
  • the photo-protective effect of each product was estimated by measuring keratinocyte viability after staining with M.T.T. The results are expressed as percentage of cell protection.
  • the skin is the front line barrier of defense against environmental pollutants including chemical pollution (industrial pollution, exhaust gases) or solar radiation.
  • Environmental pollutant factors trigger a response from the defense system of the skin as a result of their oxidizing properties. They induce an oxidative stress and an imbalance in the antioxidant system of the skin (Afaq et al, 2001) due to the formation of free radicals.
  • the body is naturally protected from these free radicals by chemical or enzymatic detoxification systems that may become overloaded. It then mobilizes free radical traps that can stop these reactions.
  • Free radicals produced by various types of diverse aggressions stress, pollution, tobacco
  • the aim of this study was to determine the chelating capacity of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract towards metal ions such as iron.
  • the principle is based on quantifying free metal with a spectrophotometric assay.
  • the assay of the chelation capacity of iron (iron solution at 10 mg/1) by lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract was conducted with a colorimetric kit (SIGMA, method No. 565).
  • the reagent ferrozine, a sulfonated derivative of diphenyltriazine forms a water-soluble magenta complex with iron not complexed by lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract.
  • Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract was tested at
  • Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract at 1% presents a strong chelating activity towards iron.
  • UVB radiation is responsible for phenomena of sunburn and immuno-suppression. It also causes a number of skin disorders, the most important of which are skin cancers. In addition, it damages DNA.
  • UVA is the major component of the UV portion of the solar spectrum and is involved in skin aging, particularly slackening of the skin. It is also involved in the suppression of certain immunological functions. The indirect effects of UVA arise from photosensitization reactions following the absorption of UVA by different cell chroraophores. UV radiation is also responsible for the formation of particular chemical species called reactive oxygen species (ROS) that have the capacity to create considerable damage directly at the level of the cell, such as the oxidation of proteins (Sander et al., 2002) that lose their functionality, lipids or nucleic acids. Fortunately cells have defense systems that are effective against oxidative stress and combat a variety of day to day aggressions.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • the aim of this study was to determine the photo-protective activity of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract against UVB irradiation of human keratinocytes. Free radicals induced by UV radiation are responsible for an increase in cell death.
  • the protective activity of the product studied can thus be determined by the spectrometric measurement of cell viability after staining with M.T.T. Keratinocytes were grown in KSFM medium (Invitrogen) inoculated at a density of 50,000 cells/well in 12-well plates. Irradiation was with a « Biosun » UV lamp (Vilbert- Lourmat, France).
  • UVB intensities were 0.13J/cm 2 , respectively, in the presence of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract at 0.10%, 0.25%, 0.50%, and 1% .
  • the cells were kept at 37°C for 24 hours in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO 2 .
  • the photo-protective effect each product was estimated by measuring keratinocyte viability after staining with M.T.T.
  • the results are expressed as percentage of cell protection.
  • Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract shows a clear protection of cells against UVB-induced free radicals.
  • the DNA molecule is a double helix composed of a succession of deoxyribose rings (sugar) and phosphate groups.
  • a purine or pyrimidine base is attached to each sugar residue.
  • the basic unit of this structure is called a nucleotide, composed of a sugar, a phosphate group and one of the purine or pyrimidine bases.
  • the purines are adenine (A) and guanine (G); the pyrimidines are cytosine (C) and thymine (T). Their precise succession determines what we call the DNA sequence.
  • Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) is the support for genetic information, the "hard disk" of the cell.
  • DNA molecule It is contained in the nucleus of all cells of the organism and is responsible for storing and transmitting genetic information (Robert, 1995).
  • the integrity of the DNA molecule is under permanent threat.
  • the molecule is in fact deteriorated by endogenous free radicals, diverse chemicals and above all by UV A, B and C radiation. Ionizing radiation results in a modification of nucleotide bases with the formation of pyrimidine dimers and strand lesions. These lesions prevent the correct operation of cells and cause genetic mutations which are often carcinogenic.
  • DNA repair mechanisms to combat these aggressions. The most effective mechanism is excision repair.
  • This process is carried out by a multi-enzyme system that recognizes pyrimidine dimers, cuts the damaged strand of DNA, eliminates it and stimulates the synthesis of a new DNA strand.
  • the new strand is identical to the fragment eliminated and is complementary to the intact opposite strand.
  • the lesion is not recognized or the repair mechanisms are incomplete. These defects result in a considerable risk of genetic mutation. This is why it is important to protect DNA strands by the use of antioxidants that can attenuate the risks of lesions.
  • Irradiations were with a « Biosun » UV lamp (Vilbert-Lourmat, France) with a UVB intensity of 180 mJ/cm 2 in the presence or absence of the product.
  • the cells were then returned to the incubator (37 0 C, 5% CO 2 ) (DO, Tl h). After 24 hours of incubation, DNA was extracted from the cells. DNA strand breaks were visualized after electrophoresis on agarose gels, and analyzed using the BIO-PROFIL ® system (Vilbert-Lourmat, France) (Dl). The results are in table 5.
  • Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract at 1% protects keratinocyte DNA from UVB-induced damage.
  • Example 6 Effect of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract on epidermal differentiation.
  • the epidermis is a stratified epithelium composed of cells whose morphology is specific to each layer. During their migration towards the surface, keratinocytes undergo biochemical and structural modifications that progressively transform them into keratinized cells: comeocytes that are eliminated by desquamation. In order to maintain a constant thickness, the epidermis is renewed by cell divisions of stem cells, followed by the differentiation of keratinocytes into comeocytes. The terminal differentiation of the corneocyte requires the formation of an intracorneocyte fibrous matrix, the production of intercellular lipids and the appearance of a keratin envelope.
  • the fibrous matrix that replaces the cytoplasm and nucleus of the keratinocyte is formed from profilaggrin contained in keratohyalin grains of the stratum granulosum.
  • Profilaggrin is converted to filaggrin by a cascade of steps including dephosphorylation and proteolysis.
  • Filaggrin enables the aggregation of cytokeratin filaments and is then degraded totally to form NMF, hygroscopic substances with a high capacity to bind water.
  • the formation of the keratin envelope starts in the Malpighian body from precursor proteins (involucrin, keratolinin, loricrin) and with the participation of calcium and a membrane enzyme, transglutaminase that creates covalent bonds between these proteins.
  • Involucrin is among the most important proteins since it is the protein skeleton of the plasma membrane of comeocytes.
  • the keratin envelope makes comeocytes rigid and is responsible for the high mechanical resistance of the stratum corneum.
  • Cadherins play an essential role not only in intercellular adherence, but also in the control of cell morphogenesis and differentiation.
  • Cadherin-E participates in the regulation of proliferation and differentiation (Kee et al., 2001). It is expressed by Langerhans cells and keratinocytes, and enables the adhesion of these two cell types. It is localized in all cell layers of the epidermis, with predominance in differentiated layers (Serres, 1997).
  • the aim of this study was to determine the effect of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract on the expression of messenger RNAs coding for transglutaminase- 1, a marker of keratinocyte differentiation.
  • the study was conducted on cultures of human keratinocytes. Human keratinocytes were grown for 48 hours at 37 0 C in an incubator in an atmosphere of 5% CO 2 in the presence of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract at 0.50%. At the end of incubation, the cells were recovered and total RNA was extracted.
  • RNA was subjected to reverse transcriptase and the complementary DNA obtained was analyzed with PCR, using oligonucleotides complementary to a sequence coding for the genes of the proteins studied (transglutaminase and Cadherin E).
  • ⁇ -actin mRNA the internal standard
  • the intensity of amplicon bands on agarose gels was quantified by image analysis (BIO-PROFIL® system, BIO-ID software, VILBERT-LOURMAT, France). The results are expressed as the ratio of intensity of the band of the gene analyzed over that of the internal standard ( ⁇ -actin). The results are shown in table 6 & 7.
  • the results are expressed as percentage of expression of transglutaminase- 1 mRNA.
  • the extract regulates the keratinocytes differentiation by increasing the expression of transglutaminase- 1 and cadherin-E.
  • the results are expressed as percentage of expression of cadherin-E mRNA.
  • Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract at 0.50% supports the expression of cadherin-E (+20%), marker of the keratinocyte differentiation.
  • Collagen is the fibrous protein most abundant of conjunctive fabric, responsible for cutaneous tonicity.
  • the activity anti-collagenase limits the degradation of collagen fibers.
  • the aim of this study was to assess the anti-collagenase activity of lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract.
  • One unit of collagenase is able to hydrolyze l ⁇ mol of FALGPA (furylacryloyl-Leu-Gly-Pro-Ala; Sigma, F5135) per minute at 25°C, pH 7.5 with calcium ion.
  • FALGPA furylacryloyl-Leu-Gly-Pro-Ala
  • Sigma, F5135 calcium ion
  • Lingonberry Stedish cranberry leaf & fruit extract limits the collagenase activity by 47%.
  • the aim of this study was to quantify in vivo the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the products N°253 (placebo) and 694 (placebo + 3% of Lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) leaf & fruit extract) on the crow's feet.
  • the study was conducted double blind on 24 volunteers presenting wrinkles on the crow's feet.
  • the area of application for the products is randomized (left crow's feet/right crow's feet). Replicas of the two crow's feet were made before and after 28 days Of twice daily application.
  • the anti-wrinkle effect of the products N°253 and 694 were analyzed by observing replicas with the help of a proftlometer equipped with an image analyzer.
  • Silicone polymer replicas were made before and after application of the product and examined by S. LA. (silicone image analysis). Grazing light at an incidence of 35° casts shadows on the surface of the impression that are then observed with a CCD camera connected to a computer. The field examined was 1 cm 2 . The gray level analysis of the resulting computer image provides the following parameters using QUANTIRIDES 99 ® (MONADERM, Monaco) software:
  • the skin is sucked into the orifice of a probe by a constant vacuum for a constant period. Several successive suctions may be carried out.
  • the depth of penetration of the skin in the probe is measured with two optical prisms placed at the opening of the probe (no friction or mechanical effect). Using the curves obtained, it is possible to calculate a number of parameters characteristic of the mechanical properties of the skin.
  • N°253 tends to increase the R2 and the R5 parameters, which represent the elasticity of the skin (+11%; +10%). This increase is non significant (P>0.05).
  • lingonberry (Swedish cranberry) extract were included in the inventive compositions.
  • the formulation below describes a body scent incorporating the inventive composition which is suitable for the methods and cases according to the present invention.
  • the percentages indicated are by weight of the composition unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions provide an effective cosmetic treatment to improve the appearance of wrinkled, aged, photo-damaged, and/or irritated skin, when applied to skin that has deteriorated through the aging or photo-aging or when applied to youthful skin to help prevent or delay such deteriorative changes. All the compositions may be processed in conventional manner.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition topique comprenant une quantité efficace sur le plan thérapeutique d'un extrait aqueux d'airelle vigne d'Ida (Vaccinium Vitis Idea), les extraits du fruit et des feuilles, ainsi qu'un véhicule acceptable sur le plan dermatologique. La composition peut être utilisée pour le traitement d'états de la peau sélectionnés dans le groupe constitué par des rides, un affaissement, une peau endommagée par le soleil, une peau sèche, une peau granuleuse, une peau irritée, une peau irritante et des taches de vieillesse et une peau âgée, ridée et endommagée par le soleil. La présente invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique de traitement de la peau. L'application topique de la composition sur une peau humaine a un effet photo-protecteur et de régénération sur la peau ainsi que d'inhibition de la dégradation du collagène.
PCT/IE2006/000067 2005-06-17 2006-06-14 Compositions cosmetiques contenant des extraits d'airelle vigne d'ida (vaccinium vitis idea) WO2006134583A1 (fr)

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SE0702758A SE531639C2 (sv) 2005-06-17 2006-06-14 Kosmetiska kompositioner som innehåller extrakt av lingon (Vaccinium vitis idea)

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IE20050411A IE20050411A1 (en) 2005-06-17 2005-06-17 Cosmetic compositions containing lingonberry (vaccinium vitis idea) extracts
IE2005/0411 2005-06-17

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WO2006134583A1 true WO2006134583A1 (fr) 2006-12-21

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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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EP2335685A1 (fr) * 2008-09-12 2011-06-22 Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd. Agent de blanchiment de la peau, agent antivieillissement et cosmétique pour la peau
CN101543525B (zh) * 2008-03-28 2012-11-21 北京绿色金可生物技术股份有限公司 一种含红豆越橘提取物的美容组合物及其应用
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EP3260170A1 (fr) * 2016-06-20 2017-12-27 Industrial Farmaceutica Cantabria, S.A. Utilisation d'extraits de deschampsia antarctica pour contrer les endommagements de la barrière de la peau humaine provoqués par des agressions environnementales
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Cited By (15)

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US20100297272A1 (en) * 2007-07-04 2010-11-25 Beijing Gingko Group Biological Technology Co., Ltd. Cosmetic Composition Containing Lingonberry Extract and Its Uses
US7939111B2 (en) * 2007-07-04 2011-05-10 Beijing Gingko-Group Biological Technology Co., Ltd. Lingonberry extract, methods of preparing, and uses thereof
EP2033528A3 (fr) * 2007-07-04 2012-12-26 Beijing Gingko Group Biological Technology Co., Ltd. Extrait d'airelle, procédé de préparation et utilisation correspondante
EP2033528A2 (fr) * 2007-07-04 2009-03-11 Beijing Gingko Group Biological Technology Co., Ltd. Extrait d'airelle, procédé de préparation et utilisation correspondante
US8501246B2 (en) * 2007-07-04 2013-08-06 Beijing Gingko Group Biological Technology, Co., Ltd. Cosmetic composition containing lingonberry extract and its uses
CN101543525B (zh) * 2008-03-28 2012-11-21 北京绿色金可生物技术股份有限公司 一种含红豆越橘提取物的美容组合物及其应用
EP2335685A4 (fr) * 2008-09-12 2013-12-04 Maruzen Pharm Co Ltd Agent de blanchiment de la peau, agent antivieillissement et cosmétique pour la peau
EP2335685A1 (fr) * 2008-09-12 2011-06-22 Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd. Agent de blanchiment de la peau, agent antivieillissement et cosmétique pour la peau
WO2013005514A1 (fr) * 2011-07-06 2013-01-10 株式会社 資生堂 Agent d'amélioration de la peau destiné à une absorption orale
EP3260170A1 (fr) * 2016-06-20 2017-12-27 Industrial Farmaceutica Cantabria, S.A. Utilisation d'extraits de deschampsia antarctica pour contrer les endommagements de la barrière de la peau humaine provoqués par des agressions environnementales
WO2017220563A1 (fr) * 2016-06-20 2017-12-28 Industrial Farmacéutica Cantabria, S.A. Utilisation d'extraits de deschampsia antarctica pour lutter contre l'altération de la barrière cutanée provoquée par les agressions environnementales
CN109562056A (zh) * 2016-06-20 2019-04-02 坎塔布里亚工业农业公司 南极发草提取物用于消除由环境侵袭引起的人皮肤屏障损伤的应用
CN109562056B (zh) * 2016-06-20 2022-06-07 坎塔布里亚工业农业公司 南极发草提取物用于消除由环境侵袭引起的人皮肤屏障损伤的应用
EP3964194A1 (fr) 2020-09-07 2022-03-09 Lumene Oy Composition cosmétique et procédé de protection de la peau et des fibres de kératine contre la lumière visible à haute énergie
EP4062901A1 (fr) 2021-03-26 2022-09-28 Lumene Oy Utilisation cosmétique d'ingrédients de baies nordiques pour soutenir un microbiome de peau sain

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