WO2004040056A1 - Methode de traitement de vetements de tissu et vetements obtenus au moyen de cette methode - Google Patents

Methode de traitement de vetements de tissu et vetements obtenus au moyen de cette methode Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004040056A1
WO2004040056A1 PCT/IB2003/004859 IB0304859W WO2004040056A1 WO 2004040056 A1 WO2004040056 A1 WO 2004040056A1 IB 0304859 W IB0304859 W IB 0304859W WO 2004040056 A1 WO2004040056 A1 WO 2004040056A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garment
garments
aqueous solution
tissue
resin
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2003/004859
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Mario Morani
Paolo Pignotti
Original Assignee
Damap S.R.L.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Damap S.R.L. filed Critical Damap S.R.L.
Priority to AU2003275531A priority Critical patent/AU2003275531A1/en
Publication of WO2004040056A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004040056A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
    • D06J1/12—Forms of pleats or the like
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/227—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of hydrocarbons, or reaction products thereof, e.g. afterhalogenated or sulfochlorinated
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/71—Cooling; Steaming or heating, e.g. in fluidised beds; with molten metals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/14—Processes for the fixation or treatment of textile materials in three-dimensional forms

Definitions

  • the present invention fits into the technical sector relating to the production of garments made of tissue.
  • the present invention relates to a new method for processing of tissue garments, aimed to give the same tissue a unique structure and texture.
  • the method according to this invention directly applies to most of the tissue, it is particularly suitable for garments made of "denim" tissue.
  • in the following reference will be expressly made to said kind of tissue.
  • garments have been finished by washing them with water containing abrasive materials, e.g. pumice-stone particles, by applying them acid or caustic substances, by heat treating them and so on.
  • abrasive materials e.g. pumice-stone particles
  • a garment image which has been particularly appreciated since some years ago comprises a colour fading process made on the most wear-subject portions of a garment (e.g. for trousers, the positions corresponding to gluteus and knees), and forming a series of plies extending horizontally in those portions of garments which are naturally subject to ply when worn.
  • a garment e.g. for trousers, the positions corresponding to gluteus and knees
  • plies are made in the front side at the base of legs, and in the back side behind the knee.
  • the above plies can be bidimensional, and obtained by de-colouring bands of tissue alternating them with coloured bands, or made in a tridimensional way, as they are formed by consequence of wearing the garment for a long time. This latter image is greatly appreciated.
  • a problem arising with making said tridimensional plies is that they are not permanent. In fact, like the plies made by a normal use of a garment disappear after the same garment has been washed, the artificial tridimensional plies obtained with conventional processes also fade after the first washing, and disappear after four or five washing procedures.
  • a solution of water and a polyurethane resin is applied to selected portions of a garment after it has been treated with the conventional finish processes (e.g. colour fading, stone washing with pumice-stone, and so on).
  • the garment is then heat-treated, in order to allow the polyurethane resin to polymerise, and subsequently dried.
  • the so obtained garment image carries the aforesaid drawback of a scarce persistency of the tridimensional plies. Moreover, its appearance is not natural at all, because there are well shaped plies only at the garment portions where the resin has been applied, the rest of the garment being absolutely flat.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide a method which allows the aforesaid tridimensional plies to have a colour fading effect identical to a colour fading obtained with a continuous wearing of said garments.
  • a further object is to obtain tridimensional, permanent plies preferably located at those garment portions wherein plies are normally formed subsequently to the garment use, but also located at casual locations in the garment. Another object is to provide tissue garments having the above tridimensional, permanent plies.
  • a method for processing of tissue garments comprising the following operating phases: applying, to the outer surface of a sized garment, a mixture comprising water, a polymeriseable stiffening resin and at least one textile softener; making a series of tridimensional plies, at least at those garment portions which are naturally subject to forming of plies subsequently to a continuous use; subjecting said garment to a first heat treatment, at a temperature lower than the resin polymerisation temperature, until the garment comes dried; subsequently subjecting said garment to a second heat treatment, at a temperature at least equal to the resin polymerisation temperature, until the complete resin polymerisation.
  • the finishing method is aimed to obtain, in the treated garments, an image of a garment which has been used for a long time, therefore provided with a series of tridimensional plies located at garment portions wherein they would naturally form subsequently to said use, and furthermore provided with more tridimensional plies casually located at the remaining garment portions.
  • the present method is suitable for treating garments made of "denim” tissue, as trousers (jeans), jackets and shirts, subsequently to their make up and before the traditional finishing processes.
  • the make up processes for said garments normally comprise a sizing process.
  • a gluing product size is applied, with known techniques, to the garments tissue, or to the yarn before the weaving process. When dried, the size makes the tissue stiffer. In such a way it can be sewn without incurring in abnormal plies around the sewing lines, which could compromise the product quality.
  • the size is normally removed by the first washing of the garment. Therefore, the stiffness of the "rough" garment is lost during the conventional finishing processes. Instead, for the present finishing method, it is important that the size has been not yet removed.
  • the present method comprises a series of operating phases, to be performed sequentially.
  • an aqueous solution of a polimeryseable resin, having a stabilizing effect on the tissue, and of a textile softener is applied on the whole outer garment surface.
  • the solution can be applied with a wide variety of known techniques, e.g. by soaking, spraying or applying with a brush.
  • a further kind of resin, of an acrylic type fit to protect the garment during all the subsequent finishing treatments involving a tissue rubbing or scratching.
  • the main function of the stabilizing resin is to make the tissue capable to hold a pre-defined shape, e.g. a ply. Said feature is enhanced by the presence of the aforesaid size.
  • the main function of the textile softener is to make the tissue softer, especially at the plies edges, thus preventing the same tissue from tearing during the subsequent finishing treatments.
  • the above polymeriseable resin with a stabilising effect can be of the kind which is normally used for finishing of tissues, and more particularly for making them more consistent and stable.
  • a commercial product which is particularly suitable is a product known with the trade name of "STABITEX ETR T PLUS", available from Cognis S.p.A.
  • This product composition is bis(methoxy-methil) di- hydroxyethyleneurea, with a specific catalyst.
  • the above cited protective acrylic resin can be used, by way of example, a product known with the trade name of "STABICRYL 04", also available from Cognis S.p.A.
  • the concentration of the above stabilizing resin in the aqueous solution may be comprised between 5% and 50% by weight.
  • the optimum resin concentration would be a 22% by weight.
  • the acrylic resin is also added to the aqueous solution at similar concentrations. Nevertheless, the correct amount has to be evaluated according to the subsequent traditional finishing treatments that have to be performed on the garments.
  • the above cited textile softener is preferably composed by a mixture of a silicone based softener and of a polyethylene based softener. In fact, even if some acceptable result could be obtained with a single kind of softener, it has been found that the best results are obtained by combining the above two kinds of textile softeners.
  • the commercial silicone based softener known with the trade name "ADASIL HS” and the commercial polyethylene based softener known as “ADALIN 1167”, both from Cognis S.p.A., can be suitably used for the above purposes.
  • the concentration of the two kinds of textile softeners in the aqueous solution depend on the tissue consistence and on the desired degree of softening action, and are usually comprised between 2% and 20% by weight for each softener. It has been found that a typical concentration for each of the aforesaid softeners in the aqueous solution is a 6% by weight.
  • a series of suitably shaped, tridimensional plies are made on selected portions of the garments.
  • These plies are made side by side, in a so-called “accordion” arrangement, and are located at one or more of the following positions: for trousers, in the front side at both sides of the trousers fork, just below the front pockets; in the back side, in a zone just below the gluteus, at both sides, and behind the knees; at the lower end of the trousers legs; for jackets and shirts, in the front side of both sleeves, at the elbow articulation.
  • casually oriented plies are also made on other portions of the treated garments. This latter operation is suggested, but it may be omitted, because some casual plies usually appear without intervention during the subsequent treatment phases.
  • the above plies are normally made by hand, and held in position by means of pliers or clasps.
  • the so treated garments are then inserted into a static kiln for a first drying heat treatment.
  • the kiln temperature is held below the resin polymerising temperature.
  • the drying temperature may be preferably comprised between 100 and 110°C.
  • the drying time depends on how the aqueous solution has been applied, on the specific weight of the tissue, and on the number ' of garments in the kiln. Normally, a period of time comprised between 2 and 3 hours is enough.
  • a second heat treatment phase follows the above described first one.
  • the garments are conveyed into a continuous kiln, at a temperature e for a period of time which is sufficient for the resin to polymerise completely.
  • a kiln temperature of 160° is suitable for the aforementioned resin.
  • the garments are preferably subject to a double cycle of transit through the continuous kiln for an optimum resin polymerisation.
  • a first cycle of transit comprises a first transit with the garment resting on its back side, and a second transit with the garment resting on its front side.
  • the second cycle of transit repeats the first one.
  • the optimum duration of each cycle is around 5 minutes.
  • the resin After the completion of the second heat treatment, the resin has completely polymerised.
  • the so treated garments result in having tridimensional plies which are extremely persistent, which don't disappear even after several water washing cycles. All the tests which have been performed show that the plies stay substantially unmodified after more than ten normal water washing cycles.
  • the casually located plies are become permanent, as the resin was applied to the whole garment surface. This contributes to increase the originality the garment image obtained with the present method.
  • the garments Once the garments have been subject to the above described treatment, they could be also subject to further, traditional finishing treatments, in order to obtain a large number of variations of the aforesaid garment image.
  • finishing treatments scratching, either on selected portions or on the whole garment surface, by means of sand paper or other equivalent tools, in order to obtain parallel fading areas or lines, which simulate the result of several rubbing operations made with brushes during the washing of garments; de-colouring of garment portions by means of oxidising products, like chlorine or potassium permanganate (e.g., at the position of knees, gluteus or on the legs front side); the traditional stone washing, made inside containers with abrasive products, like pumice stone, chlorine, with or without additional colouring products. Adding these latter products allows a "professional" use of the garment, e.g. by a painter or a mechanician, to be simulated.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une méthode permettant de traiter des vêtements de tissu, notamment des vêtements en jean, laquelle méthode s'applique au vêtements dits 'rugueux', à savoir les vêtement n'ayant pas encore subi les traitements de finissage classiques. En premier lieu, un mélange comprenant une solution aqueuse d'une résine polymérisable et un mélange d'adoucissants textiles constitué d'un adoucissant à base de silicium et d'un adoucissant à base de polyéthylène est appliqué sur la surface extérieure du vêtement. Une série de plis tridimensionnels est ensuite formée sur les vêtements, de façon que ces plis soient parallèles, sur des parties du vêtement qui sont naturellement sujettes aux plis après un usage prolongé. Un premier traitement thermique est ensuite appliqué au vêtement, à une température inférieure à la température de polymérisation de la résine décrite ci-dessus, jusqu'à ce que le vêtement sèche. Un second traitement thermique est également appliqué au vêtement, à une température qui n'est inférieure à la température de polymérisation de ladite résine, jusqu'à ce que cette dernière ait été complètement polymérisée.
PCT/IB2003/004859 2002-10-31 2003-10-29 Methode de traitement de vetements de tissu et vetements obtenus au moyen de cette methode WO2004040056A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2003275531A AU2003275531A1 (en) 2002-10-31 2003-10-29 Method for the treatment of tissue garments, and garments obtained with said method

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITBO2002A000689 2002-10-31
IT000689A ITBO20020689A1 (it) 2002-10-31 2002-10-31 Metodo per il trattamento di capi di abbigliamento in tessuto e capi di abbigliamento ottenuti con tale metodo.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2004040056A1 true WO2004040056A1 (fr) 2004-05-13

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PCT/IB2003/004859 WO2004040056A1 (fr) 2002-10-31 2003-10-29 Methode de traitement de vetements de tissu et vetements obtenus au moyen de cette methode

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AU (1) AU2003275531A1 (fr)
IT (1) ITBO20020689A1 (fr)
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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2817468A (en) * 1953-09-02 1957-12-24 Apponaug Company Method of making a pleated finish in textile fabric
GB951543A (en) * 1960-03-02 1964-03-04 Lipaco Sa The manufacture of cellulosic fabric structures
DE1948606A1 (de) * 1968-10-03 1970-04-23 Cotton Producers Inst Verfahren zur Behandlung von Cellulosefasern enthaltendem Material
GB1372445A (en) * 1972-03-20 1974-10-30 Cotton Inc Method of imparting durable press properties to a garment and a garment prepared by the said method
DE3835189A1 (de) * 1988-10-15 1990-04-19 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur erzeugung permanenter plastischer oberflaechenstrukturen in textilen flaechengebilden
EP0924332A1 (fr) * 1997-12-16 1999-06-23 C'Est Duo international, Ltd. Procédé pour froisser

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2817468A (en) * 1953-09-02 1957-12-24 Apponaug Company Method of making a pleated finish in textile fabric
GB951543A (en) * 1960-03-02 1964-03-04 Lipaco Sa The manufacture of cellulosic fabric structures
DE1948606A1 (de) * 1968-10-03 1970-04-23 Cotton Producers Inst Verfahren zur Behandlung von Cellulosefasern enthaltendem Material
GB1372445A (en) * 1972-03-20 1974-10-30 Cotton Inc Method of imparting durable press properties to a garment and a garment prepared by the said method
DE3835189A1 (de) * 1988-10-15 1990-04-19 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur erzeugung permanenter plastischer oberflaechenstrukturen in textilen flaechengebilden
EP0924332A1 (fr) * 1997-12-16 1999-06-23 C'Est Duo international, Ltd. Procédé pour froisser

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITBO20020689A0 (it) 2002-10-31
AU2003275531A1 (en) 2004-05-25
ITBO20020689A1 (it) 2004-05-01

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