WO2003007892A2

WO2003007892A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing electrolyte, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and other negative changes in the physiological homeostasis of the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2003007892A2
Application number: PCT/EP2002/007586
Authority: WO
Inventors: Gerhard Sauermann; Helga Biergiesser; Volker Schreiner; Thomas Döring; Wilfried Siefken; Guido Janeke
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2001-07-07
Filing date: 2002-07-04
Publication date: 2003-01-30
Also published as: DE10133201A1; WO2003007892A3

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a) at least one compound from the group of electrolytes combined with b) at least one compound from the group of polyols and urea and optionally c) at least one compound from the group of osmolytes, especially in locally applied preparations, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for reinforcing the barrier function of the skin, in addition to the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and/or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing electrolytes for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and other negative substances

Changes in skin physiological homeostasis.

The present invention relates in particular to the use of active substance combinations consisting of one or more electrolytes and glycerol or urea, alone or in combination, and in combination with one or more osmolytes or their derivatives, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the barrier function of the skin ,

The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function, the one that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is the important part for the barrier function. It is worn in contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant process of renewal, with fine flakes being continuously released to the outside and corneal and lipid material horned from the inside being reproduced.

CONFIRMATJON COPY The skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall ( brick and mortar model). In this model, the homocytes (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through. The special structure of the horny layer protects the skin on the one hand and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.

Mechanical loads such as pressure, impact or shear forces can also be absorbed to an astonishing extent by the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper skin layers. Greater pressure, torsional or shear forces are passed on to the deeper layers of the skin through the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium.

The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it not only has a barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of the horny layer.

The lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributed over the entire horny layer. The composition of these lipids is of crucial importance for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and thus for the water impermeability of the skin.

When the skin is cleaned with the help of a simple water bath - without the addition of surfactants - the skin's horny layer swells. The degree of this swelling depends, among other things, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer. By skin's own Surfactants are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to subsequently dry out, which can be significantly enhanced by washing-active additives.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, e.g. B. due to environmental damage or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism on the skin surface is disturbed.

In the case of old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, in particular the water-binding capacity of the horny layer diminishes. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, there may even be toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids are formed incorrectly or in insufficient quantity or composition. The consequence is increased permeability of the horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically differently structured surfactants and the like. For the beauty and care of the skin, the water content in the top layer of skin is of the utmost importance. It can be influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations, can increase the pH value in the horny layer for a long time, which greatly hinders regenerative processes that serve to restore and renew the barrier function of the skin. In this case, a new, often very unfavorable equilibrium occurs in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction, which significantly affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily as meaning that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, lipids, electrolytes). is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited in scope and time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin. This physical barrier can be removed correspondingly easily, for example with cleaning agents, as a result of which the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect can decrease with regular treatment. After stopping the application of the product, the skin quickly returns to the condition before the start of treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. A sustainable product effect is therefore generally not achieved or only to a limited extent. The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin even consists in selective barrier damage, which is intended to enable active substances to penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the skin is sometimes accepted as a side effect.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products essentially consists in an efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By simultaneously reducing the surfactant content of such preparations, the damage to the horny layer barrier can be further limited.

However, the prior art lacks preparations which have a positive effect on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer and which strengthen or even restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular of the lamellae made of intercellular lipids.

In order to support the skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, intercellular lipid mixtures, such as ceramides or ceramide analogues, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, have recently been increasingly added to the topical preparations. However, these lipids are mostly very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually less than expected.

The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, skin care preparations should be made available that maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They should also be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis. It was also an object of the present invention to provide stable skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable. Furthermore, disorders of the homeostasis of the skin, in particular healthy skin, are to be treated and remedied or treated prophylactically.

According to the invention, the tasks are solved.

These objects are achieved in a surprising and unforeseeable manner by the person skilled in the art by using a) a compound or more compounds from the group of the electrolytes in combination with b) a compound or more compounds from the group formed by polyols and urea and optionally • c) a compound or several compounds from the group of osmolytes, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the

Barrier function of the skin as well as for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative

Changes in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, in particular deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages, inflammatory skin conditions and atopic eczema, the polymorphic

Light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,

Changes in normal lipid peroxidation, a change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin, a change in the physiological transepidermal water loss, a decrease in skin hydration and a decrease in the moisture content of the skin,

Change in natural moisturizing factor content,

Reduction in cell-cell communication,

Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,

DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,

Activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,

Deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of

connective tissue,

Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglycan content of the healthy

Skin, scaling of hair, scaling of scalp and Skin aging.

Cosmetic and dermatological topical preparations, in particular cosmetic topical preparations, are preferred.

The invention also relates to the use of the active compounds according to the invention.

The structure of human hair is basically the same as that of the horny layer of human skin. There are lipids between the dead corneocytes, e.g. Ceramides that counteract the drying out and structural weakness of the hair. The hair structure can therefore also be improved by the active compounds according to the invention and their combinations. In addition, the active compounds according to the invention and their combinations are also suitable for the treatment of a flaky scalp.

The aging of the skin, especially when promoted by chronic solar radiation, represents e.g. a particularly dramatic form of the disorder of the skin homeostasis. Surprisingly, the active substances according to the invention and their combinations improve very particularly homeostatic deviations of the aging skin. Therefore, like the preparations they contain, they are very well suited for the treatment and prophylactic treatment of skin aging.

The invention also relates to the use of the active compounds according to the invention in topically applicable preparations, such as cosmetic and dermatological preparations, for the stated purposes.

In this context, osmolytes are understood to mean osmotically active, uncharged molecules which can be taken up actively or passively by epidermal keratinocytes.

Suitable electrolytes are compounds that are capable of dissociation in ions, especially when dissolved in water. For example, they can be present as inorganic or organic salts.

The use of inorganic salts (in particular NaCl, NaBr, NaI, Na ₂ B ₄ O _7, Na ₂ SiO _3, Na ₂ CO _{3 l} NaHC0 _3, Na ₃ PO _4, Na ₂ HPO _4, NaH ₂ PO _4, KCl is preferred Kl, LiCI, NH ₄ CI, ZnCI ₂ , Al ₂ SO ₄ and MgSO ₄ ) as well as salts of organic acids, in particular of naturally occurring acids in the skin, for example the Energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate or weak carboxylic acids such as sodium propionate.

Surprisingly, the active system mentioned stimulates the skin's own metabolism of lipids and proteins, which have to be constantly re-formed in order to maintain the epidermal barrier for water. According to the invention, dry skin in particular is treated and / or cared for by the barrier-strengthening effect of these preparations, while drying out of normal skin is actively prevented.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.05-30% by weight, particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, of one or more electrolytes, preferably sodium chloride, based on the total composition of the preparations.

Suitable osmolytes are, for example, the polyols, methylamine compounds and amino acids and their respective precursors.

According to the invention, in particular substances from the group of sugar alcohols (myo-inositol, mannitol, sorbitol) and / or one or more of the osmolytically active substances mentioned below are used as osmolytes: choline, betaine, phosphorylcholine, glycerophosphorylcholines, glutamine, glycine, α-alanine, Glutamate, aspartate, proline, and taurine. Precursors of these substances are, for example, glucose, glucose polymers, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, inorganic phosphates, proteins, peptides and polyamic acids. Preliminary stages are e.g. Compounds that are metabolized into osmolytes.

The osmolytes and / or their precursors mentioned are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably to 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably to 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, particularly preferably to 0.1 - 5.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations. Preparations which contain polyol, in particular glycerol and urea, are preferred.

Suitable polyols are, for example, straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkanols with, for example, 2-6 OH groups, preferably 2 or 3 OH groups and z. B. 2-12 or 2-6, in particular 2 or 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

Z. B. glycols, including those with non-vicinal OH groups and also polyalkylene glycols, for. B. with 2-6, in particular 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms per glycol unit, which may be etherified in the same or a mixture. The number of alkyl glycol units in the polyalkylene glycol can e.g. B. up to 20, preferably up to 10, but in particular 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Glycerol, butylene glycols, propylene glycols, ethylene glycol, pentanediols, hexanediols, in particular the vicinal hydroxy compounds, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and tributylene glycol, are particularly suitable.

According to the invention, polyols are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, e.g. 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,

According to the invention, urea is advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, e.g. 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,

When polyol and urea are combined, these substances are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular preferably 1-15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The ratio of the weight of the active ingredients in group a) (electrolytes) to the weight of the active ingredients in group b) can vary. For example, the weight ratio a) / b) can be 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but in particular 1: 1.

When the polyol and urea are combined, the ratio of the weight of the polyol to the weight of the urea can vary. For example, the weight ratio polyol / urea can be 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but in particular 1: 1.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

- better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,

- increase the cermid biosynthesis of the skin,

- counteract dehydration better,

- work better against aging and

- protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Correspondingly, depending on their structure, they can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. The preparations according to the invention contain e.g. 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations of the active compounds according to the invention ,

The active compound combinations used according to the invention are particularly preferably used in pH-buffered preparations, a pH range from 5-7, in particular about 5-6, being very particularly preferred. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to one or more active substances according to the invention, these preferably contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

The amounts of cosmetic, dermatological or medical carriers and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by a person skilled in the art depending on the type of product in question by simply trying them out.

Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil type Oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present the active compounds according to the invention in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other customary encapsulation materials, for example in the form of cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or in liposomal encapsulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible and advantageous to insert the active compounds according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

In particular, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain antioxidants. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, Ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives ( e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl - And lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsu lfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. - hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts . Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-uenolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, aseorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, Ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO derivate), selenium ), Stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) d of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, and also natural oils such as castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably

Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol,

Propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-ethyl-ethylhexyl palate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palate Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglyeerine esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid components of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of _C12-15-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ .ι ₅ alkyl benzoate. 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

Advantageous emulsifiers are, for example, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20; sorbitan; sorbitan; Ceteareth-25; Ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate; Triceteareth-4 phosphate; glyceryl stearate;

sodium cetylstearyl; lecithin; Trilaureth-4 phosphate; Laureth-4 phosphate; stearic acid; Propylene glycol stearate SE; PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides; sorbitan; Glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol; PEG-9 stearate; glyceryl; Ceteth-2; Ceteth-20; Polysorbate 60; Lanolin; Glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-100 stearate; glyceryl; microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) mixed with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate; glyceryl; PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate; Laureth-4; Ceteareth-3; Wool wax acid mixtures; isostearyl glyceryl ether; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate; Wool wax alcohol mixtures; Laureth-23; Steareth-2; Glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-30 stearate; PEG-40 stearate; Glycol distearate; PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer; Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate; Pentaerythrithylisostearat; Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; Ceteareth-20; Sorbitan oleate mixed with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid; Sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate mixed with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether; methyl glucose; Steareth-10; PEG-20 stearate; Steareth-2 mixed with PEG-8 distearate; Steareth-21; Steareth-20; lsosteareth-20; methyl glucose; PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; Sorbitan oleate mixed with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil; Sorbitan isostearate mixed with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer; Methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer; hydrogenated

Cocosfettsäureglyceride; Polyglyceryl-4-lsostearat; PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate; PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate; PEG-20 glyceryl stearate; PEG-20 glyceryl stearate; PEG-8 beeswax; lauryl; cetyl dimethicone; Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate; Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat; Stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride; PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; Glyceryl stearate, ceteth-20; triethylcitrate; PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate; Ceteareth-12; Paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum); glyceryl stearate; cetyl phosphate; sorbitan; Acrylate / C ₁₀ 3o-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; sorbitan; methyl glucose; Triceteareth-4-phosphate; Trilaureth-4 phosphate; Polyglycerylmethylglucosedistearat; Poloxamer 101 potassium cetyl phosphate; lsosteareth-10; Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearat; Ceteth-10 polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate; Oleth-20; lsoceteth-20; Glyceryl isostearate polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-20 stearate; glyceryl stearate; PEG-30 stearate. The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount the filter substances is, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations To provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

3-benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4 ~ methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-

methoxycinnamate;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

Salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4 ~ methoxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and 1,4-di ( 2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salt), also called benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It can also be advantageous to combine the active substance combinations used according to the invention with UVA filters, which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '~ isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of active ingredient combinations with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.

The cosmetic and dermatological agents contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment. Auxiliaries include preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to add hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself to dye.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or Amphoteric surface-active substance, or also mixtures of such substances, the active substance combinations according to the invention in the aqueous medium and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 50% by weight.

Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a lotion that is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent waving, these are e.g. around aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution represents and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as active ingredient combinations used according to the invention in effective concentration. The amount of the polymers used is e.g. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, which contain the active compound combinations used according to the invention, can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. In addition to water, nonionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances. According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of active compounds according to the invention and, if appropriate, solvents conventionally used therefor, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose,

Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The amount of active compounds according to the invention in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or low-water or water-free cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, easier removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - foam regulation.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OS0 ₃ ^2" , -S0 ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants, • amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. Own in a strongly acidic environment _. they have a positive charge and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral ^" pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example will illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X- = any anion, eg CI ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG-4-lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecyleneamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12- ₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be selected for the purposes of the present invention from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular

Benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides,

Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides,

Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Are particularly advantageous

To use cetyltrimethylammonium salts.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl- / dialkylethyl! Endiamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycoside such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to active ingredient combinations used according to the invention, they preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof and auxiliaries of the kind normally used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

In addition to an effective content of active ingredient combinations, cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, and auxiliaries of the kind normally used for this purpose. The surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like. It is preferred according to the invention to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents to the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention.

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics. The complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Complexing agents, in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms which, when one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are present, represent detail cycles. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors.

The complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, Nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) and its anions, Diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).

According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or Photooxidation, these preparations being, for example, preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, also make-up products such as nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and showering preparations, creams for treating or caring for the skin or for all others cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective content of active compound combinations used according to the invention.

The amount of active compound combinations used according to the invention in these preparations is preferably 0.01-30% by weight, preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that active ingredient combinations according to the invention are incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se.

All amounts, proportions and percentages are, unless otherwise stated, ^'based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it.

example 1

O / W cream

% By weight glyceryl stearate 3.0000

Cetyl Alcohol 3.0000

PEG-40 stearate 3.5000 Paraffinum Liquidum 5.0000

C12-15 alkyl benzoates 0.5000

Cyclomethicone 5.0000

Glycerin 5.0000

Sodium Chloride 5.0000

Taurine 2.0000

Dyes / perfume q.s. preservative

Water ad 100.0000

The constituents of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. Then it is cooled to room temperature.

Example 2

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate 2.4000

Cetyl Alcohol 2.4000

Glyceryl stearate + PEG-100 1,2000 stearate

Paraffinum Liquidum 15.0000

Xanthan gum 0.2000

Glycerin 3.0000

Urea 2.0000 myo-inositol 2.0000

Sodium Chloride 5.0000

Diazolidinyl urea 0.3000

Dyes perfume qs preservative water ad 100.0000 The components of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. Then it is cooled to room temperature. Example 3

O / W cream

Wt .-%

Cetyl Alcohol 2.4000

Steareth-21 1.2000

Steareth-2 2.4000

Paraffinum Liquidum 15.0000

Xanthan gum 0.2000

Glycerin 1,0000

Urea 5.0000

Taurine 1.0000

Sodium Chloride 5.0000

Diazolidinyl urea 0.3000

Dyes / perfume q.s.

preservative

Water ad 100.0000

Example 4

O / W cream

% By weight cetyl alcohol 2.4000

Steareth-21 1.2000 Steareth-2 2.4000

Octyldodecanol 0.1000

PPG-14 butyl ether 5.0000

Cyclomethicone 5.0000

Trisodium EDTA 1.5000

Glycerin 2.0000

Betaine 2.0000

Sodium chloride 3.0000

Dyes / perfume q.s. preservative

Water ad 100.0000

Claims

claims

1. Use of a) a compound or more compounds from the group of the electrolytes in combination with b) a compound or more compounds from the group formed by polyols and urea and optionally c) a compound or more compounds from the group of the osmolytes,

especially in topical formulations, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the barrier function of the skin as well as for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, in particular deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages, inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, sensitive, itchy or irritated skin, changes in the normal lipid peroxidation, a change in lipid peroxidation, a change - and energy metabolism of healthy skin, a change in the physiological transepidermal water loss, a reduction in skin hydration and a decrease in the moisture content of the skin, a change in the natural moisturizing factor s, reduction in cell-cell communication, deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis, DNA damage and reduction in endogenous DNA repair mechanisms, activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous DNA repair mechanisms, deviations from the normal Post-translational modifications of connective tissue components, changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglycan content of healthy skin, scaling of the hair, scaling of the scalp and skin aging.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that NaCl, NaBr, NaI, Na ₂ B ₄ 0 ₇ , Na ₂ Si0 ₃ , Na ₂ C0 ₃ , NaHC0 ₃ , Na ₃ P0 _4l Na ₂ HP0 ₄ , NaH ₂ P0 _4th , KCI, Kl, LiCI, NH ₄ CI, ZnCI ₂ , AI ₂ S0 _4ι MgS0 ₄ , sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate or sodium propionate can be used.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that glycerol, butylene glycols, propylene glycols, ethylene glycol, pentanediols, hexanediols, in particular in each case the vicinal hydroxy compounds, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol or tributylene glycol are used.

4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that polyol, in particular glycerol and urea are used at the same time.