DE10133199A1 - Use of topical compositions containing cineol and its derivatives and natural products containing them e.g. to improve skin condition and to treat or prevent skin disorders - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical compositions containing cineol and its derivatives and natural products containing them are used to improve skin condition and to treat or prevent skin disorders, abnormal lipid peroxidation, reduced cell-cell communication, deficient intracellular DNA synthesis, DNA damage, deficient DNA repair, abnormal post-translational modification of connective tissue components and dandruff. Topical compositions comprising cineol and its derivatives and natural products containing them and optionally electrolytes, polyols, urea and osmolytes are used to treat or prevent: (1) dry skin, to enhance the barrier function of the skin, for treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and/or for treatment and prophylaxis of symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of normal skin; (2) inflammatory skin conditions, atopic eczema, polymorphic photodermatitis, psoriasis, vitiligo and sensitive, itching or irritated skin; (3) abnormal lipid peroxidation; (4) abnormal ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of the skin, abnormal transepidermal water loss, reduced skin hydration and moisture content and altered Natural Moisturizing Factor content; (5) reduced cell-cell communication, deficient intracellular DNA synthesis, DNA damage, reduced endogenous DNA repair, activation of metalloproteinases and/or other proteases or inhibition of corresponding DNA repair mechanisms and abnormal post-translational modification of connective tissue components; (6) abnormal skin hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglycan content; and (7) dandruff of the hair and scalp and skin aging.

Description

The present invention relates in particular to the use of cineol and / or their derivatives and combinations of active ingredients with one or more electrolytes and with glycerin or urea alone or in combination for treatment and active Prevention of dry skin and strengthening the barrier function of the skin and others negative changes in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, the one that dries out the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevented the probably most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This is brought about Barrier function through the epidermis, which acts as the outermost layer Protective cover against the environment. With about a tenth of the total thickness it is also the thinnest layer of skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), which is the important part for the barrier function. It will be in Worn out contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant Renewal process, whereby fine scales are continuously released to the outside cornified cell and lipid material is reproduced from the inside.

The skin model of Elias (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of fhe Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to one Brick wall (brick mortar model). In this model they correspond Horn cells (corneocytes) the bricks, the complex composite Lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system represents essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances but due to its narrow and multi-layered structure equally from lipophilic substances are difficult to pass. The special structure of the Horny layer protects the skin on the one hand and stabilizes its own on the other Flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.

Mechanical loads, such as pressure, impact or shear forces, can be astonished by the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper layers of skin can be caught. Greater pressure, torsional or shear forces are connected to the deeper layers of the skin by the intermeshing of the epidermis with the corium passed.

The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important Functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it does not have only one Barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but contributes also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer.

The lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, free Fatty acids, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate are found across the entire horny layer distributed. The composition of these lipids is essential for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and thus for the impermeability of the skin of vitally important.

Already when cleaning the skin with the help of a simple water bath - without Addition of surfactants - the skin's horny layer swells first. The degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature from. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances that Water retention capacity of the horny layer are responsible. By skin's own Surfactants are also dissolved to a certain extent also skin oils and washed out. After initial swelling, this requires a subsequent one Dehydration of the skin, which is significantly enhanced by washing-active additives can.

With healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant because the Protective mechanisms of the skin such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin can easily compensate. But already in the case of non-pathological Deviations from normal status, e.g. B. by environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., is the protective mechanism on the Skin surface disturbed.

With old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, whereby in particular, the water retention capacity of the horny layer decreases. she will therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). On Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even toxic or allergic skin reactions occur.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage in front. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or in insufficient quantity or Composition formed. The consequence is increased permeability Horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic Substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be determined by determining the transepidermal Water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) can be quantified. there is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without Inclusion of water loss when sweating. The determination of the TEWL Wertes has proven to be extremely informative and can be cracked for diagnosis or chapped skin, chemically different to determine the tolerance built up surfactants and the like can be used.

For the beauty and care of the skin, the water content is in the top Skin layer of paramount importance. You can go through it to a limited extent Influence the introduction of moisture regulators favorably.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of Cleansing preparations can have long-lasting pH levels in the horny layer increase what regenerative processes, the restoration and renewal of the Serve as skin barrier function, severely handicapped. In this case it turns out in the Horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, of the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the Horny layer significantly affected.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. Dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own Substances (e.g. water, lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are known per se. However, their contribution to regeneration is physiological intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is essentially based on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated Skin areas. The ointment or cream creates a (second) artificial barrier, so to speak which is to prevent water loss from the skin. This can be done easily physical barrier - for example with cleaning agents - removed again through which the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect can decrease with regular treatment. After stopping the product application, the skin returns to the skin very quickly Condition before the start of treatment. Certain products deteriorate the condition of the skin may even be temporary. A sustainable one As a rule, product effect is not or only to a limited extent reached.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the skin's barrier function is even a selective barrier damage, which should enable that Active substances can penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed The appearance of the skin is partially accepted as a side effect taken.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products is essentially one efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By the simultaneous Reducing the surfactant content of such preparations can damage the Further limit the horny layer barrier.

The prior art, however, lacks preparations which the Barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer positively influence the physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and especially the Strengthen or even restore lamellae from intercellular lipids.

To support the skin in its natural regeneration and its In recent times, topical preparations have been used to strengthen physiological function increasingly intercellular lipid mixtures such as ceramides or ceramide analogues added by the skin used to rebuild the natural barrier should be. However, these lipids are usually very expensive Raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually less than expected.

The object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art Eliminate technology. In particular, skin care preparations for Be provided, which maintain the barrier properties of the skin or restore, especially when the skin's natural regeneration not enough. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of Consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or neurodermatitis, be suitable. The object of the present invention was also to be stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents available places that protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, fast and be sustainable.

Furthermore, disorders of the homeostasis of the skin, especially healthy ones, are said to be Skin, treated and repaired or treated prophylactically.

According to the invention, the tasks are solved.

• a) Cineol und dessen Derivate und Naturstoffe, die diese enthalten,
• b) gegebenenfalls einer Verbindung oder mehreren Verbindungen aus der Gruppe der Elektrolyte,
• c) gegebenenfalls einer Verbindung oder mehreren Verbindungen aus der Gruppe gebildet von Polyolen und Harnstoff und gegebenenfalls
• d) einer Verbindung oder mehreren Verbindungen aus der Gruppe der Osmolyte,

These objects are surprisingly and unpredictably achieved for the person skilled in the art through the use of topically applied preparations with a content of

• a) cineol and its derivatives and natural products containing them,
• b) optionally one or more compounds from the group of electrolytes,
• c) optionally one or more compounds from the group formed by polyols and urea and optionally
• d) one or more compounds from the group of osmolytes,

for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the barrier function of the skin as well as for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, in particular deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages,
inflammatory skin conditions and atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo,
sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,
Changes in normal lipid peroxidation,
a change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin,
a change in the physiological transepidermal water loss,
a reduction in skin hydration and a decrease in the moisture content of the skin,
Change in natural moisturizing factor content,
Reduction in cell-cell communication,
Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,
DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,
Activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,
Deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of connective tissue components,
Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglycan content of healthy skin and dandruff of the hair, dandruff of the scalp and skin aging.

Cosmetic and dermatological topical preparations are preferred, especially cosmetic topical preparations.

The structure of human hair is basically the same as that of the horny layer human skin. There are lipids like between the dead corneocytes z. B. ceramides, which counteract the dehydration and structural weakness of the hair. Therefore, by the active ingredients according to the invention and their combinations Hair structure can be improved. In addition, the active substances and their combinations are also suitable for the treatment of a flaky scalp.

Aging of the skin, especially when promoted by chronic sun exposure, represents z. B. is a particularly dramatic form of skin homeostasis disorder. Surprisingly, the active compounds according to the invention and their Combinations of very particular homeostatic deviations in the aging skin. they are therefore, as well as the preparations they contain, for treatment and prophylactic Skin aging treatment very suitable.

The invention also relates to the use of the invention Agents.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain one or more of the Compounds of group a) and one or more compounds of group b) or of group c).

Preparations containing one or more are particularly preferred several compounds of groups a) and b) and c).

Osmolytes are understood to mean osmotically active, uncharged molecules that can be taken up actively or passively by epidermal keratinocytes.

Natural products according to the invention which contain cineol are, for. B. eucalyptus oil, niaouli oil, Juniperus oil, piper oil, cannabis oil, kajeput oil, sage oil and myrtle oil.

The active ingredients of group a) are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations z. B. 0.001 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

Suitable electrolytes are compounds which are capable of dissociation in ions, especially when dissolving in water. You can, for example, as inorganic or organic salts.

The use of inorganic salts (in particular NaCl, NaBr, NaI, Na ₂ B ₄ O ₇ , Na ₂ SiO ₃ , Na ₂ CO ₃ , NaHCO ₃ , Na ₃ PO ₄ , Na ₂ HPO ₄ , NaH ₂ PO ₄ , KCl) is preferred , KI, LiCl, NH ₄ Cl, ZnCl ₂ , Al ₂ SO ₄ and MgSO ₄ ) as well as salts of organic acids, especially of naturally occurring acids in the skin, e.g. B. the energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate or weak carboxylic acids z. B. sodium propionate. Surprisingly, the active system mentioned stimulates the skin's own metabolism of lipids and proteins, which have to be constantly regenerated to maintain the epidermal barrier for water. According to the invention, dry skin in particular is treated and / or cared for by the barrier-strengthening effect of these preparations, while drying out of normal skin is actively prevented.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.05-30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-5 wt .-%, on one or several electrolytes, preferably sodium chloride, based on the Overall composition of the preparations.

Suitable osmolytes are, for example, the polyols, methylamine compounds and Amino acids and their precursors.

According to the invention, in particular substances from the group of sugar alcohols (myo-inositol, sorbitol, mannitol) and / or one or more of the osmolytically active substances mentioned below are used as osmolytes:
Choline, betaine, phosphorylcholine, glycerophosphorylcholines, glutamine, glycine, α-alanine, glutamate, aspartate, proline, and taurine. Precursors of these substances are, for example, glucose, glucose polymers, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, inorganic phosphates, proteins, peptides and polyamic acids. Precursors are e.g. B. Compounds that are converted to osmolytes by metabolic steps.

The osmolytes mentioned and / or their precursors are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferably up to 0.001% by weight 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably zu 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Preparations are preferred which are polyol, in particular glycerol and Contain urea.

Suitable polyols are, for example, straight-chain, branched or cyclic Alkanols with, for example, 2-6 OH groups, preferably 2 or 3 OH groups and z. B. 2-12 or 2-6, especially 2 or 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

Z. B. glycols, including those with non-vicinal OH groups and also Polyalkylene glycols, e.g. B. with 2-6, in particular 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms per Glycol unit, which can be etherified in the same way or mixed. The number of Alkyl glycol units in the polyalkylene glycol can e.g. B. up to 20, preferably up to 10, but especially 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Glycerol, butylene glycols, propylene glycols, ethylene glycol, Pentanediols, hexanediols, in particular in each case the vicinal hydroxy compounds, Diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and tributylene glycol.

According to the invention, polyols are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological Preparations e.g. B. 0.05 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

According to the invention, urea is advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological Preparations e.g. B. 0.05 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

When combining polyol and urea, these substances are according to the invention advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations z. B. 0.05% by weight up to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably zu 1-15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The ratio of the weight of the active ingredients of group b) (electrolytes) to the weight the active ingredients of group c) can vary. For example, that Weight ratio b) / c) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but especially 1: 1.

When combining polyol and urea, the ratio of the weight of the Polyols vary in weight of urea. For example, that Weight ratio polyol / urea 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but especially 1: 1.

Surprisingly, the active system mentioned stimulates the skin's own Metabolism of lipids and proteins that help maintain the epidermal Barrier to water need to be constantly re-formed. According to the dry skin treated by the barrier-strengthening effect of these preparations and / or cared for while actively preventing normal skin from drying out becomes.

• - besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• - die Cermidbiosynthese der Haut verstärken,
• - besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• - besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• - die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,
• - increase the cermid biosynthesis of the skin,
• - counteract dehydration better,
• - work better against skin aging and
• - better protect the skin from environmental influences

than the preparations of the prior art.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Accordingly, depending on their structure, they can, for example, be used as Skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, daily or Night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations use. The preparations according to the invention contain z. B. 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations Active substances according to the invention.

Those used according to the invention are particularly preferred Active ingredient combinations used in pH-buffered preparations, with a pH Range of 5-7, especially about 5-6 is very particularly preferred.

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in in the form of a sunscreen. These preferably contain in addition one or more active substances according to the invention at least one UV-A Filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use such cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not is protection against sunlight, but which still contains UV Protective substances included. So z. B. in day creams usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for Prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, Thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, plasticizers, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or others usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or Silicone derivatives.

The amounts of cosmetic, dermatological or Medicinal carriers and perfume can vary depending on the type of each product is easily determined by a specialist simply by trying it out become.

Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

The cosmetic and dermatological agents according to the invention are used Preparations in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or the hair sufficient amount applied.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in different forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous Preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or type of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsions, for example of the type Water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or even a Represent aerosol. It is also advantageous to use the active compounds according to the invention in to present encapsulated form, e.g. B. in collagen matrices and other usual Encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, Wax matrices or encapsulated liposomally.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active substances according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for Insert cleaning of the skin and hair.

In particular, the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations also contain antioxidants. According to the invention can be as cheap Antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, Ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives ( e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl - And lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleotides, salts and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthionin sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (eg. as ZnO, ZnSO _4), Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations according to the invention are preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants, is advantageous in their respective concentrations the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Wording to choose.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the fats mentioned, Oils, waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier like him commonly used for such a type of formulation.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions In the sense of the present invention, the group of esters is advantageously used from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 up to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageous are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2- Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucat and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such Esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of the branched ones and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention. It can also if necessary be advantageous, waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in To use sense of the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously have a cyclic or linear content Have silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although is preferred, in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils, an additional content of other oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

Advantageous emulsifiers are, for example, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20; sorbitan; sorbitan; Ceteareth-25; Ceteareth-6 mixed with stearyl alcohol; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate; Triceteareth-4 phosphate; glyceryl stearate; sodium cetylstearyl; lecithin; Trilaureth-4 phosphate; Laureth-4 phosphate; stearic acid; Propylene glycol stearate SE; PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides; sorbitan; Glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol; PEG-9 stearate; glyceryl; Ceteth-2; Ceteth-20; Polysorbate 60; Lanolin; Glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-100 stearate; glyceryl; microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) mixed with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate; glyceryl; PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate; Laureth-4; Ceteareth-3; Wool wax acid mixtures; isostearyl glyceryl ether; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate; Wool wax alcohol mixtures; Laureth-23; Steareth-2; Glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-30 stearate; PEG-40 stearate; Glycol distearate; PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer; Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate; Pentaerythrithylisostearat; Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; Ceteareth-20; Sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid; Sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate mixed with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether; methyl glucose; Steareth-10; PEG-20 stearate; Steareth-2 mixed with PEG-8 distearate; Steareth-21; Steareth-20; Isosteareth-20; methyl glucose; PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; Sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil; Sorbitan isostearate mixed with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil; PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer; Methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer; hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides; Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate; PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate; PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate; PEG-20 glyceryl stearate; PEG-20 glyceryl stearate; PEG-8 beeswax; lauryl; cetyl dimethicone; Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate; Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat; Stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride; PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; Glyceryl stearate, ceteth-20; triethylcitrate; PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate; Ceteareth-12; Paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum); glyceryl stearate; cetyl phosphate; sorbitan; Acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer; sorbitan; methyl glucose; Triceteareth-4-phosphate; Trilaureth-4 phosphate; Polyglycerylmethylglucosedistearat; Poloxamer 101; potassium cetyl phosphate; Isosteareth-10; Polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearat; Ceteth-10; Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate; Oleth-20; Isoceteth-20; glyceryl; Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-20 stearate; glyceryl stearate; PEG-30 stearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageously alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, also low C number alcohols, e.g. B. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2- Propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, Aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageous from the group the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopole, for example carbopole types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, respectively individually or in combination.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. at alcohol can be another ingredient in alcoholic solvents.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the fats mentioned, Oils, waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier like him commonly used for such a type of formulation.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. B. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and water or one above named oil in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

As a propellant for sprayable aerosol containers according to the invention Preparations are the usual, known volatile, liquefied propellants, For example, hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable alone or can be used in a mixture with each other. Compressed air is also advantageous use.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be substances contain that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of Filter substances e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, is in particular 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. she can also serve as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4- Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entsprechenden 10-Sulfatoverbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10- Sulfonsäure bezeichnet.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl-10- Designated sulfonic acid.

The list of UVB filters mentioned in combination with the invention Active ingredient combinations can of course not be used be limiting.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of Active ingredient combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB Filters as antioxidants or the use of a combination of the invention drug combinations used with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It can also be advantageous to use the ones used according to the invention Combine active ingredient combinations with UVA filters, which were previously common in cosmetic preparations are included. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'- tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations, too these combinations are the subject of the invention. It can be used for UVB combination used amounts are used.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of Active ingredient combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA Filters as antioxidants or the use of a combination of the inventive Active ingredient combinations with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in one cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of Active ingredient combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA Filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a Combination of active ingredient combinations with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of Active substance combinations used according to the invention can also be inorganic Contain pigments that are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV Rays are used. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, Zirconium, silicon, manganese, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications, where the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations, these Containing a combination are the subject of the invention. It can be used for Amounts mentioned above combinations are used.

For cosmetic and dermatological preparations to protect the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example Shampoo, preparations used when rinsing the hair before or after the Shampooing, before or after permanent waving, before or after coloring or decolorization of the hair can be applied to formulations for blow drying or Inserting the hair, preparations for dyeing or bleaching, to a hairdressing and Treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or permanent waving agent.

The cosmetic and dermatological contain active ingredients and auxiliary substances, such as them usually for this type of hair care and treatment be used. Preservatives, surface-active agents, serve as auxiliary substances Substances, substances for preventing foaming, thickeners, Emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, Dyes or pigments whose job it is to make the hair or the cosmetic or to dye the dermatological preparation itself.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of Chlorides, the sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, the phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as the carbonates and Bicarbonates.

Cosmetic preparations containing a skin cleanser or shampoo represent, preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or mixtures of such substances, the active compound combinations used according to the invention in an aqueous medium and Tools, as they are usually used for this. The surface active Substance or the mixtures of these substances can be in a concentration between 1% and 50% by weight are present in the shampoo.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations are in the form of a lotion before rinsed out and z. B. before or after decolorization, before or after Shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after the Perm treatment is applied, it is z. B. to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, optionally surface-active substances contain, whose concentration between 0.1 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.2 and 5 wt .-%, may be.

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also contain aerosols represent the aids commonly used for this.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out especially a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion that is used to blow dry the Hair is used, a styling and treatment lotion, generally represents one aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or also Mixtures of the same, as well as active ingredient combinations used according to the invention in effective concentration. The amount of polymers used is e.g. B. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair that the Combinations of active ingredients used according to the invention can contain as Emulsions are present which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. Not- In addition to water, ionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols for example, can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, or also Mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions contain optionally cationic surface-active substances.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the Hair are present as gels, in addition to an effective content of the invention Active substances and, if appropriate, solvents conventionally used therefor, preferably water, still organic thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. Aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of Polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The Thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The amount of active compounds according to the invention is preferably in one for the Hair determined means 0.05 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent.

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or for the aqueous Cleaning certain water-poor or water-free detergent concentrates can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water can. Due to their specific molecular structure, they provide at least a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic part of the molecule, for reducing the Surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the relief of Dirt removal and solution, easy rinsing and - if desired - for Foam control.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2); X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^- ;
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7);
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12); B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Form non-ionic surfactants no ions in aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium-Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyllactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6-Citrat und Natrium PEG-4-Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13-Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6-Cocamide Carboxylat,

Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10-Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat,
Sulfonsäuren und Salze, wie

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA-Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13-Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom, which with 4 alkyl and / or Aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH, this leads to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, Alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be selected from the Group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example Lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or Alkylaminoethyldimethylamine. Are particularly advantageous To use cetyltrimethylammonium salts.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

Cosmetic preparations, the cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin represent can be in liquid or solid form. They contain alongside Active ingredient combinations used according to the invention preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures therefrom and aids, as are usually used for this. The surfactant can be in a concentration between 1 and 94 wt .-% in the cleaning preparations are present, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

Cosmetic preparations containing a shampoo containing in addition to an effective content of active ingredient combinations, preferably at least an anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant or Mixtures thereof, and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surfactant can be in a concentration between 1 wt .-% and 94% by weight are present in the shampoo.

The compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the aforementioned Surfactants water and optionally the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, Pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

It is preferred according to the invention that used according to the invention Active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations, to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents.

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology or medical galenics. By complexing interfering metals like Mn, Fe, For example, Cu and others can cause undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prevented.

Complexing agents, especially chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which in the presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, Represent metallacycles. Chelates are compounds in which a single Ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this Traps are usually stretched through complex formation a metal atom or ion closed to form rings. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. Requirement for the Chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal has two or more Contains atomic groups that act as electron donors.

The complexing agent (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual Compounds are selected, preferably at least one substance from the Group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its Anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) and their Anions, diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2- Diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).

According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

The present invention also includes a method for protection cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or Photooxidation, these preparations e.g. B. Preparations for treatment and Represent hair care, especially hair dye, hair varnish, Shampoo, color shampoo, also make-up products such. B. Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or for all other cosmetic Preparations deals, their components stability problems due to oxidation or can bring about photooxidation during storage, thereby characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective content Have combinations of active ingredients used according to the invention.

The amount of used according to the invention is preferably Active ingredient combinations in these preparations 0.01-30 wt .-%, preferred 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

The invention also relates to the process for producing the Cosmetic composition according to the invention, which is characterized in that in active ingredient combinations according to the invention in cosmetic manner and incorporates dermatological formulations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Example 1 O / W cream Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate 3.0000 Cetyl alcohol 3.0000 PEG-40 stearate 3.5000 Paraffinum Liquidum 5.0000 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 0.5000 Cyclomethicone 5.0000 glycerin 5.0000 Sodium chloride 5.0000 eucalyptus 0.3000 Dyes / perfume qs preservative water ad 100.0000

The components of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature. Example 2 O / W cream Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate 2.40000 Cetyl alcohol 2.40000 Glyceryl stearate + PEG-100 stearate 1.20000 Paraffinum Liquidum 15.00000 Xanthan gum 0.20000 glycerin 3.00000 urea 2.00000 cineole 0.30000 Sodium chloride 5.00000 Diazolidinyl urea 0.30000 Dyes / perfume qs preservative water ad 100.00000

The components of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature. Example 3 O / W cream Wt .-% Cetyl alcohol 2.4000 Steareth-21 1.2000 Steareth-2 2.4000 Paraffinum Liquidum 15.0000 Xanthan gum 0.2000 glycerin 1.0000 urea 5.0000 cineole 0.1000 Sodium chloride 5.0000 Diazolidinyl urea 0.3000 Dyes / perfume qs preservative water ad 100.0000

The components of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature. Example 4 O / W cream Wt .-% Cetyl alcohol 2.40000 Steareth-21 1.20000 Steareth-2 2.40000 octyldodecanol 0.10000 PPG-14 butyl ether 5.00000 Cyclomethicone 5.00000 Trisodium EDTA 1.50000 glycerin 3.00000 Eucalytusöl 0.10000 sodium chloride 3.00000 Dyes / perfume qs preservative water ad 100.00000

The components of the oil phase are combined, then at 60-70 ° C with the also combined water phase stirred whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

Claims (6)

1. Use of topically applicable preparations containing a) Cineol and its derivatives and natural products containing them b) optionally one or more compounds from the group of electrolytes, c) optionally one or more compounds from the group of polyols and urea and optionally d) one or more compounds from the group of osmolytes, for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the barrier function of the skin as well as for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, in particular deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages,
inflammatory skin conditions and atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo,
sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,
Changes in normal lipid peroxidation,
a change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin,
a change in the physiological transepidermal water loss,
a reduction in skin hydration and a decrease in the moisture content of the skin,
Change in natural moisturizing factor content,
Reduction in cell-cell communication,
Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,
DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,
Activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous DNA repair mechanisms, deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of connective tissue components,
Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglycan content of healthy skin, scaling of hair, scaling of scalp and skin aging. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that eucalyptus oil, niaouli oil, Juniperus oil, piper oil, cannabis oil, kajeput oil, sage oil or myrtle oil is used. 3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that NaCl, NaBr, Nal, Na ₂ B ₄ O ₇ , Na ₂ SiO ₃ , Na ₂ CO ₃ , NaHCO ₃ , Na ₃ PO ₄ , Na ₂ HPO ₄ , NaH ₂ PO ₄ , KCl, Kl, LiCl, NH ₄ Cl, ZnCl ₂ , Al ₂ SO ₄ MgSO ₄ , sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate or sodium propionate. 4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that glycerin, Butylene glycols, propylene glycols, ethylene glycol, pentanediols, hexanediols, in particular each the vicinal hydroxy compounds, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol or tributylene glycol are used become. 5. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more of the Compounds of group a) and one or more compounds of group b) or Group c) are used, or that compounds of groups a) and b) and c) be used. 6. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that at the same time polyol, especially glycerin and urea can be used.