US3646779A - Knitting machine for knitting double face jacquard pattern material - Google Patents

Knitting machine for knitting double face jacquard pattern material Download PDF

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Publication number
US3646779A
US3646779A US762075A US76207568A US3646779A US 3646779 A US3646779 A US 3646779A US 762075 A US762075 A US 762075A US 76207568 A US76207568 A US 76207568A US 3646779 A US3646779 A US 3646779A
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needles
dial
knitting
needle
cylinder
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Otto Nuber
Richard Norz
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Fouquet Werk Frauz and Planck
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Fouquet Werk Frauz and Planck
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B15/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/66—Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements
    • D04B15/68—Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements characterised by the knitting instruments used

Definitions

  • KNITTING MACHINE FOR KNITTING DOUBLE FACE JACQUARD PATTERN MATERIAL [72] Inventors: Otto Nuber, Tubingen; Richard Norz, Rottenburg, both of Germany [73] Assignee: Fouquet-Werk, Franz 8t Planck, Rottenburg Neckar, Germany [22]v Filed: Sept; 24, 1968 [21] App1.No.: 762,075
  • a pair of similar Jacquard pattern controllers are located, in radial alignment, in such a manner that one controller selects the cylinder needles and the other the dial needles simultaneously, the needles of the dial and cylinder being, in accordance with the pattern, brought to knitting position alternating] y.
  • the present invention relates to a method to manufacture double-sided, patterned tubular Jacquard knitwear with multifeed circular knitting machines, and particularly with machines having a fine cut; and further to apparatus and a pattern arrangement to carry out the method.
  • Circular knitting machinery having apparatus to select the dial needles have been proposed and are described in the literature (see, for example, British Patents 311,898; 734,406; US. Pat. Nos. 2,697,336; 2,814,937; German Patent 668,048; 444,989; and 1,186,972, which corresponds to British Patent 874,719).
  • Single-faced patterns on the inner side of the knit material can be made by such machines, by selecting the dial needle in accordance with predetermined patterns.
  • Circular knitting machines having various types of needles and of various needle length are also known, in order to manufacture vertically striped material, for example similar to the eight-lock, flat bed knitting machines, such as eight-lock circular knitting machinery.
  • Such machines to select the dial needles in the past could only select the needles of the dial in accordance with a pattern, and took up substantial space, so that the amount of feed of the machinery was reduced, and the repeat height of the pattern was limited.
  • Such known patterning arrangements were not suitable to manufacture reversible double-sided patterned Jacquard material, since the pattern wheels for the dial needles, or the index rings therefor could not be separately adjusted for synchronism with the cylinder needle selection arrangement.
  • Jacquard patterns of any selectable pattern could not be made on circular knitting machines having different types of needles, as are customary in machines making long striped patterns.
  • pattern arrangements are provided both for the cylinder needle rows and the dial needle rows.
  • the respective needle rows, or groups, in'accordance with the selected pattern are brought to knitting position with respect to the needles of the oppositely located needle row or group in such a manner that each needle group only makes plain single Jersey stitches, the yarn of one color alternatingly forming a portion of the knit pattern.
  • the arrangement provides this sequence: assume selected needles of the cylinder group are knitting with yarn of a first color, e.g., red, forming a first portion of the pattern; the corresponding needles of the dial group do not knit; the red yarn is then switched over to selected needles of the dial to form a second portion of the pattern; during knitting by the selected needles of the dial, the needles of the cylinder group opposite the knitting dial needles are then idle.
  • the missing loops are knitted at a subsequent (with respect to the rotation of the circular knitting machine) knitting feed, with yarn of a different color, e.g., blue.
  • Both sides of the goods are interknitted at the points of crossover, where the yarn of a first color (red) switches over from, for example, the dial needles to the cylinder needles and the yarn of the second color (blue) switches over from the cylinder needles to the dial needles and so on, so that the yarns will complement each other.
  • the material At knitted regions where the yarns do not cross, that is where there is no crossover, the material will be double faced and tubular.
  • Patterns having three or more colors can readily be made by laying floats between the two inner faces of the knit material where it is tubular, the additional yarn forming the floats providing additional knit loops on one or both sides of the final knit material.
  • the sequence of the feed determines the sequence of the pattern rows, so that selection of the pattern and adjustment of the pattern arrangement may be carried out in known manner as customary with any Jacquard machine.
  • the apparatus in accordance with the present invention, provides a pattern arrangement for each knitting feed by means of a Jacquard pattern controller which, by and itself, may be known.
  • Jacquard pattern devices are, in accordance with the invention, located to be radially aligned, so that one pattern device selects the cylinder needles, while another one selected, simultaneously, the dial needles; the needles of the cylinder and of the dial are then, in accordance with the pattern, brought to knitting position alternately, so that the needles of the dial or of the cylinder will be knitting.
  • the cylinder needles may be selected by any known selector mechanism. For a very fine cut, a special selection mechanism is necessary for the dial needle in order to enable such selection with minimum space requirement.
  • the selector mechanism engages into the tricks for the dial needles and, by means of adjustable or switchable pattern carriers, linkage bars are operated which transfer the pattern command to the dial needles while requiring only little space, the entire arrangement being located in the interior of the dial, where is can be accommodated in spite of the decreasing separation between needle elements due to the radial convergence of the tricks.
  • the Jacquard control devices for the cylinder, as well as for the dial needles are aligned in radial direction in such a manner that the selected needles of both the cylinder needles and the dial needles commence knitting at the same point of the feed.
  • Those needles and the selector jacks which are not selected remain in their starting position within the cams, so that they can be selected at a subsequent feed; the needles which are knitting, and their associated selector jacks, are brought back to the selecting, that is starting position automatically in advance of reaching the radial position for selection.
  • This arrangement which is also used for the dial needles, saves so much space that the number of the knitting positions or knitting feeds, as well as the number of the pattern selectors at the circumference of the machine can be increased substantially.
  • pattern carriers as known, may be used which, after each revolution of the machine, index in accordance with the pattern in such a manner that the pattern presents continuity.
  • Reversible, double-sided patterned Jacquard knit material has a soft hand, and is light because it has no accumulation of stitches on one side of the material, as is the case with singlefaced Jacquard patterns.
  • the production on multifeed systems is high and many varied patterns may readily be selected simply and inexpensively. Since the formation of the knit loops occurs alternatingly on one group of needles or the other, heavier as well as very thin yarns may be knitted without faults or errors.
  • FIG. 1 is a side view of a latch needle, and a selector butt, having 13 selection positions;
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic top view of the cam track and a conventional selection arrangement for the dial;
  • FIG. 3 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of the dial illustrating the selection arrangement for swingably mounted selector jacks for the dial needle, which are located in a cylindrical element, the selector jacks extending at theirlower end beneath the needle jacks in the needle slots, or tricks, of the dial;
  • FIG. 3a is a schematic view of a selection arrangement for dial and cylinder needles
  • FIG. 4 is a top view of the cam of the dial, in schematic showing, by which all needlejacks and needle selector jacks are automatically returned in their rest position from which they can be further selected,
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 are schematic showings of a pattern arrangement made in accordance with the method of the invention, to produce a two-color step pattern on both sides of the fabric knitted on a 3:6-feed Jacquard circular knitting machine;
  • FIGS. 7, 8 and 9 illustrate schematically loop formations of fabric made in accordance with the invention.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates knitting by one row of needles and FIG. 6 knitting by the other row of needles.
  • Yarn loops appearing at the crossed positions are knitted by needles of one row, e.g., the dial, while yarn loops appearing at the blank positions are knitted by needles of the other row, that is, the cylinder.
  • the crossed fields of FIG. 5 illustrate the loops of one color (e.g., red) of the knit pattern on one side, e.g., the outer side, of the fabric knitted by needles of one row e.g., the dial.
  • the yarn of the same color (red) will appear at the position of the blank squares of FIG. 6 knitted by needles of the other row, the cylinder.
  • a different color (e.g., blue) at the outer side, will be knitted by dial needles and will appear at the crossed squares of FIG. 6; and the inner side, the different color (blue) is represented by the blank squares of FIG. 5.
  • FIG. 7 illustrates the loop arrangement for a two-color patterned fabric
  • FIG. 8 for a three-color patterned fabric with floats between knitted loops, the third color (marked green) being double knit at adjacent needles
  • FIG. 9 illustrates the loops for a three-color patterned fabric in which yarns of all three colors are floated and the stitch sequence is randomly selected.
  • the dial is provided with needles and jacks 21 (FIG. 1). Needle 20 has a butt 16. Likewise, Jack 21 has a butt l5 and a group of selector butts 1 to 13. An auxiliary butt 14 is provided at the end. Auxiliary butt l4 secures jack 21 against sliding towards the center of the machinery by bearing against guide ring 22 on the dial 40 (FIG. 2). Needle 20 is placed into knitting position by means of jack 21.
  • the cam track 33 on cam 30 serves as a guide for butt 16 of needle 20. Surface 31 of the cam 30, and transfer part 32 returns the needle to rest position.
  • Each one of the jacks 21 is supplied with a selector butt in such a manner that it can be selected, in staggered arrangement, in from one to 13 positions, in accordance with one to l3 adjacent slots in the dial (FIG. 2).
  • the machine can be arranged in the usual manner to form symmetrical patterns, V set ups for random patterns, for diagonal patterns, and may have butt arrangements in the needle beds as is well known in connection with circular Jacquard knitting machines.
  • the plan view, from the bottom, of the cam illustrates the camming tracks associated with the butts on the selector jack.
  • the notation chosen is such that any numbered butt, for example 9, corresponds to a selector track, for example No. 9.
  • a position that is to be selected is given the notation A, and a nonselected butt the notation D.
  • a box containing 12 or 13 sliders is located in the region of the selector butts above the dial, the box containing replaceable selector jack raising cams, as well as selector jack holding cams, which prevent raising.
  • tracks 1, 7, 8, 9 and 11 are to be selected, as illustrated at 1A, 7A, 8A, 9A and 11A; the selector jack back holding cams, preventing raising, are illustrated at positions 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, l0, l2 and 13 by elements 2D, 3D, 4D, 5D, 6D, 10D, 12D and 13D.
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a manual setting, but the selector jack raising cams (corresponding to position A), or-
  • position D back holding cams (position D) could be swiveled under a Jacquard pattern control to assume selectively, as desired, the positions A or D.
  • the butt 15 of all the jacks is carried by means of cams 24, 25 at position 23 in its exact butt channel, so long as the butts of the jacks 21 are guided by the selector jack back holding cams D. If a selector jack does not have a butt which matches one of the raising carns, butt 15 will remain in the circular track of the dial, thus also keeping the needles within the circular track and not moving them into knitting position. If a butt 15 is to be moved into knitting position, a selector jack raising cam must be placed in a track to engage a projecting selector butt 1 to 13.
  • selector jack raising cam 9A will engage selector butt 9 on jack 21, to move butt 15 over the point 26 of camming part 27.
  • Point 26 of part 27 engages butt 15 as soon as the selector jack raising cam 9A engages selector butt 9 of the jack.
  • the jack is then carried by part 27 past cam portion 28 so that the selector jack can drive the needle 20 to the knitting position.
  • Jack and needle are then returned by the cam tracks in well-known manner.
  • a nonselected jack, for example one having a selector butt at position 10 is retained by the selector jack back holding cam 10D and pulled back slightly into the machine, until butt 15 is below and behind point 26 of portion 27.
  • the nonoperating jack is then pulled back further by locking part 27, and brought back into position to be selected again if desired, at a further position at point 29, together with those jacks which have been selected and returned.
  • auxiliary butt 14 will bear against ring 22 on the dial.
  • Cam parts 24, 25, acting on butt l5 collect the jacks for further operation.
  • FIG. 3 is a fragmentary cross section of the dial, showing a needle 50 in its trick: selector jacks 53 are located in grooves in a cylindrical structure behind the dial needle 50, the selector jacks 53 selecting the dial needles 50 in accordance with a predetermined pattern.
  • the arrangement in accordance with present invention differs from that of FIGS. 1 and 2 in that an auxiliary selector jack 51 moves the needle jack 54 by means of a small swinging movement over bearing axis 52 in order to introduce the needle jack 54 and its butt into the dial race track.
  • the lower end 53' of the selector jack 51 is placed within the trick for the needle 50 and beneath the needle jack 54, so that positive selection of the needle jack can be obtained even with a very fine cut.
  • the needle is shown only schematically.
  • selector jacks 51 themselves, which pivot in accordance with a predetermined pattern, are formed with the well-known selector butts as schematically indicated at 51', which can be arranged in staggered location in accordance with the selected pattern, and are operated in known manner by manually settable, or controllable pattern arrangements two setting bars of which are seen at 71, 71
  • Those needle jacks 54 which are lifted enter the cam track, or cam race, so that the needles 50 are brought to knitting position.
  • a means is provided to retain the nonselected needles, needle jacks, and selector jacks in nonoperating position.
  • Those needle jacks 54 which have not been operated, that is which remain depressed within their tricks do not bring needles 50 into knitting position.
  • the needle jacks 54, remaining in the tricks retain the not selected needles 50 in nonknitting position.
  • Return holding cam 55 having an angled extension 54 (FIG. 4), depresses the needle jacks 54 during their return motion to retain them depressed in the tricks, thereby also causing pivoting of the selector jacks 53, to their rest position.
  • the end of the jack 54 slides over the angled camming extension 56 during the return, in order to slide the jacks and needles back after having been advanced to a knitting position.
  • FIG. 4 is a detail view of the return holding cam 55.
  • Automatic return positioning of the needle jacks 54 into their rest or nonknitting position while the machine is knitting, and small displacement of the selector jacks during jack selection enables arrangement of the pattern control for the dial needles in a very small and tight space, thus increasing the cut and the number of feed positions, so that cuts in the order of per inch can be obtained.
  • FIG. 3a shows, in highly schematic form, the dial needle selection of FIG. 3, reversed right for left, in combination with a cylinder needle selection arrangement, also shown schematically, which is generally well known.
  • Selector jacks 57 operate the cylinder needles 150.
  • the number of selector butts for the cylinder jacks, as well as for the dial selector jacks 51 is the same. The only difference is the mode of operation and effect on the needles.
  • the action of the selector cams on the butts is such that when the dial needles are in knitting operation, the cylinder needles are out of operation.
  • the radial alignment of the jacks in the cylinder, as well as the dial needle beds is such that they are in radial registration.
  • Such an arrangement of the selector jacks, and their butts, makes selection of a doublesided pattern very simple, since a similar adjustment of the pattern arrangement for both groups of needles automatically forms a double-sided pattern, as seen, for example, in the schematic diagram for the double-sided patterns of FIGS. 5 and 6.
  • the needles to form the loops of the third color are disabled in the knitting feeds of the yarns of the first and second color.
  • the yarns of the first and second color are laid, in the region of the remaining needles on any knitting feed and not knitted by the needles of the first and second color, as floats between the oppositely connected rows of loops.
  • the third color is knitted.
  • the yarn of the third color forms floats between the rows of loops in the region of the first and second colors.
  • the various possibilities of forming patterns to make reversible, that is double-faced Jacquard material are similar to those for one-sided patterns. They can be selected separately for each side of the material.
  • the pattern arrangement in accordance with FIG. 3 illustrates pattern selection of pattern controllers 71, 71' by hand, the pattern controllers being locked into working position by suitable locking means.
  • Such an arrangement permits setting of the pattern control to make small designs, the pattern height being determined by the number of knitting positions and the pattern width by the number of selector butts on the selector jacks.
  • the pattern selectors may be operated in known manners, using pattern carriers which can be indexed or switched. Of course, needle jacks with larger numbers of butts may also be used.
  • the present invention has been illustrated largely in schematic form, the structure of the entire knitting machine, the operation and the method of yarn feed being well known and standard in the art; reference may be had to the patents aforementioned, and for a description of complete machines to various textbooks in the field, and for example, Knitted Outerwear Times, for example Vol. 35, No. 19 (May 5, 1966) or Vol. 36, No. 20, (May 8, 1967), in which various knitting terms are defined and machines described in detail.
  • Knitting arrangement in a circular knitting machine having a dial, a cylinder, needles located in dial and cylinder needle rows, a plurality of knitting feeds, arranged around said dial and cylinder, and Jacquard-type pattern means controlling operation of the needles of the feeds in the dial and in the cylinder in accordance with a preselected Jacquard pattern;
  • said Jacquard-type pattern means comprising a pair of similar Jacquard-type pattern controllers at a feed, one each being associated with the dial needle row and the other with the cylinder needle ro w, respectively, said attem controllers being located with respect to each ot er in radially aligned position, and located with respect to the dial and cylinder needles for simultaneous selection of respective dial and cylinder needles;
  • said Jacquard-type pattern controllers altematingly activating to knitting position selected needles first of one of said rows only, and then of the other of said rows only, to control knitting operation of the needles of said rows alternatingly and in accordance with a selected pattern; including slots formed in the dial;
  • said needles located in said dial needle row being in said slots, the selector jacks being engageable by the Jacquard-type pattern controllers, and the selector jacks and needle jacks being guided in said slots;
  • each said needle jack being pivotally mounted on an associated needle for swinging movement, one of said Jacquard-type pattern controllers selectively operating selector jacks to cause swinging movement of needle jacks to move associated needles to knitting position.
  • Knitting machine wherein the selector jacks each have an operating end located in a slot and engaging a needle jack;

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
US762075A 1967-09-26 1968-09-24 Knitting machine for knitting double face jacquard pattern material Expired - Lifetime US3646779A (en)

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DE1635798A DE1635798C3 (de) 1967-09-26 1967-09-26 Hochsystemige Rundränderstrickmaschine mit feiner Nadelteilung zur Herstellung einer gemusterten Jacquardstrickware

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CH (1) CH480477A (es)
DE (1) DE1635798C3 (es)
ES (2) ES357488A1 (es)
FR (1) FR1583358A (es)
GB (1) GB1247676A (es)

Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US3696640A (en) * 1970-01-21 1972-10-10 Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd Variable needle selecting means for knitting machines
US3696641A (en) * 1970-01-21 1972-10-10 Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd Needle selecting means for knitting machines
US3747370A (en) * 1971-03-19 1973-07-24 Northrop Carolina Inc Pattern jack actuator means for circular knitting machines
US3791174A (en) * 1971-11-01 1974-02-12 Jumberca Sa Patterning mechanism for circular knitting machines
US3875764A (en) * 1970-07-16 1975-04-08 Wills Moren William James Patterning system for a multi-feed circular knitting machine
US3930383A (en) * 1971-08-30 1976-01-06 Firma Fouquet-Werk Frauz & Planck Circular knitting machine
US3945223A (en) * 1972-12-14 1976-03-23 Morris Philip Apparatus and method of knitting and elements thereof
US3950965A (en) * 1973-04-27 1976-04-20 Billi S.P.A. Auxiliary linkage for amplifying needle movement in circular knitting machines
US4612785A (en) * 1983-12-23 1986-09-23 Bentley Engineering Company Limited Dials for circular knitting machines
CN103696114A (zh) * 2013-12-31 2014-04-02 周忠岗 双面提花针织机
CN103981626A (zh) * 2014-04-26 2014-08-13 晋江宏基机械有限公司 双面同步电脑大提花机
US20160040333A1 (en) * 2014-04-02 2016-02-11 Putian Huafeng Industrial&Trade Co.,Ltd. Preparation method of jacquard sandwich mesh fabric with two-colored surface
US20170238644A1 (en) * 2014-09-30 2017-08-24 Nike, Inc. Knitted components exhibiting color shifting effects
US20180049510A1 (en) * 2014-09-30 2018-02-22 Nike, Inc. Article incorporating a lenticular knit structure
US11197518B2 (en) 2014-09-30 2021-12-14 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear upper incorporating a textile component with tensile elements
US11885050B2 (en) 2014-09-30 2024-01-30 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component

Families Citing this family (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3667254A (en) * 1970-04-06 1972-06-06 Warner Swasey Co Horizontal selector jacks and their actuation
IT1070396B (it) * 1976-07-21 1985-03-29 Matec Spa Perfezionamento nei mezzi di comando dei selettori o jacks oscillanti nelle macchine da maglieria da calze e simili
EP0117660B1 (en) * 1983-02-26 1987-05-20 The Bentley Engineering Company Limited Dial needle selecting mechanism
GB9104381D0 (en) * 1991-03-01 1991-04-17 Gen Motors Corp Fabric and structure

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US3264846A (en) * 1960-02-20 1966-08-09 Pfrommer Bruno Double faced knitted fabric
CH430021A (de) * 1963-12-12 1967-02-15 Morat Gmbh Franz Stoffbahn nach Köperart

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Cited By (24)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3696641A (en) * 1970-01-21 1972-10-10 Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd Needle selecting means for knitting machines
US3696640A (en) * 1970-01-21 1972-10-10 Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd Variable needle selecting means for knitting machines
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR1583358A (es) 1969-10-24
GB1247676A (en) 1971-09-29
CH480477A (de) 1969-10-31
ES357488A1 (es) 1970-03-16
DE1635798C3 (de) 1974-11-28
DE1635798A1 (de) 1971-07-29
DE1635798B2 (de) 1974-04-18
ES373571A1 (es) 1972-08-16

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