US3416954A - Process for the durable creasing or other permanent setting of textile materials containing wool or other keratin fibres - Google Patents
Process for the durable creasing or other permanent setting of textile materials containing wool or other keratin fibres Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US3416954A US3416954A US401662A US40166264A US3416954A US 3416954 A US3416954 A US 3416954A US 401662 A US401662 A US 401662A US 40166264 A US40166264 A US 40166264A US 3416954 A US3416954 A US 3416954A
- Authority
- US
- United States
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- setting
- wool
- permanent
- steaming
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 title description 30
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title description 19
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title description 11
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title description 10
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 title description 9
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title description 8
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title description 8
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 86
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 33
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 25
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 21
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 description 19
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 15
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 15
- 238000007664 blowing Methods 0.000 description 11
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 11
- ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethanolamine Chemical compound OCCNCCO ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 125000003396 thiol group Chemical group [H]S* 0.000 description 10
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 6
- 150000004649 carbonic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 230000008707 rearrangement Effects 0.000 description 5
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 5
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 4
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 4
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CNZGMXDLDHBNCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(2-hydroxyethyl)azanium;hydrogen carbonate Chemical compound OC(O)=O.OCCNCCO CNZGMXDLDHBNCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000004657 carbamic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000003230 hygroscopic agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Carbamate Chemical compound NC([O-])=O KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon dioxide Chemical compound O=C=O CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZHNUHDYFZUAESO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formamide Chemical compound NC=O ZHNUHDYFZUAESO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- -1 alkali metal salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 150000002169 ethanolamines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- AMXOYNBUYSYVKV-UHFFFAOYSA-M lithium bromide Chemical compound [Li+].[Br-] AMXOYNBUYSYVKV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000012956 testing procedure Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000080 wetting agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- AFFBBDIUDXTSOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol;carbonic acid Chemical compound OC(O)=O.OCCN(CCO)CCO AFFBBDIUDXTSOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XTHLNJJMYLLKPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-aminoethanol;carbonic acid Chemical compound NCCO.OC(O)=O XTHLNJJMYLLKPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium hydroxide Chemical class [NH4+].[OH-] VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PIICEJLVQHRZGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylenediamine Chemical compound NCCN PIICEJLVQHRZGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AVXURJPOCDRRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydroxylamine Chemical class ON AVXURJPOCDRRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium bisulfite Chemical compound [Na+].OS([O-])=O DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007605 air drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011114 ammonium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ZZTCCAPMZLDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium thioglycolate Chemical compound [NH4+].[O-]C(=O)CS ZZTCCAPMZLDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010006 anti-felting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005587 bubbling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001569 carbon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910002092 carbon dioxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000005587 carbonate group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012458 free base Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007062 hydrolysis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006460 hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910017053 inorganic salt Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013021 overheating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002829 reductive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004289 sodium hydrogen sulphite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010267 sodium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- RVEZZJVBDQCTEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfenic acid Chemical group SO RVEZZJVBDQCTEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910021653 sulphate ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003672 ureas Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/325—Amines
- D06M13/332—Di- or polyamines
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
- D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
- D06M11/13—Ammonium halides or halides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/68—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
- D06M11/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with oxides of phosphorus; with hypophosphorous, phosphorous or phosphoric acids or their salts
- D06M11/71—Salts of phosphoric acids
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/80—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides
- D06M11/82—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides with boron oxides; with boric, meta- or perboric acids or their salts, e.g. with borax
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/368—Hydroxyalkylamines; Derivatives thereof, e.g. Kritchevsky bases
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
- D06M13/425—Carbamic or thiocarbamic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. urethanes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
- D06M13/432—Urea, thiourea or derivatives thereof, e.g. biurets; Urea-inclusion compounds; Dicyanamides; Carbodiimides; Guanidines, e.g. dicyandiamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
- Y10T442/2369—Coating or impregnation improves elasticity, bendability, resiliency, flexibility, or shape retention of the fabric
- Y10T442/2393—Coating or impregnation provides crease-resistance or wash and wear characteristics
Definitions
- This invention relates to treatment of textile materials including yarns and tops composed wholly or partly of wool or other keratin fibres for the purpose of permanent setting, for example creasing or pleating during garment making-up, without the need for applying water or a solution of chemicals immediately prior to carrying out the setting operation, for example steam pressing.
- Australian patent specification No. 225,996 describes the currently-accepted mechanism or permanent setting and the currently-accepted definitions of terms such as "permanent setting. "creasing.” pleating etc. Such terms are used in the same sense in this description of this present invention which is also based on the same mechanism of permanent settingfAustrnlian pecification No. 225.996 describes a process in which wool textile materials are treated with a solution of reducing agent immediatcly prior to steaming or steam-pressing in the wet state to impart durable pleats or creases and. in particular, shows the essential role of water in permanent setting.
- Permanent setting involves rearrangement of both hydrogen bonds and disulphide cross links between the polypeptide chains of the wool molecules.
- Hydrogen bond rearrangement requires heating in the presence of a hydrogen bond breaking compound of which water is the most common example.
- Disulphide bond rearrangement requires the presence of free ionized thiol groups attached to molecular side chains -and takes place via an interchange between said disulphide bonds and ionized thiol groups. Thus, one ionized thiol group can initiate the rearrangement of many disulphide bonds.
- Wool normally contains small numbers of ionized and unionized thiol groups in equilibrium but rapid setting requires the presence of a greater number of such groups than is normally present.
- setting agents Theseare usually produced by the action on the wool of reagents which break disulphide bonds and which hereinafter will be referred to as setting agents.
- Reducing agents are well known to be effective setting agents because they reduce the disulphide bonds and some of the thiol groups so formed will be ionized.
- alkaline compounds also are effective setting agents mainly because they ensure that most of the existing thiol groups will be ionized Patented Dec. 17, 1968 but also because additional thiol groups can be formed by hydrolysis of disulphide bonds each of which would form one ionized thiol group and one sulphenic acid group.
- Australian patent specification No. 209,203 relates primarily to permanent setting by steaming in the presence of a volatile alkali or reducing agent, but mentions that a non-volatile reducing agent such as sodium bisulphite, can be used by pretreating the wool fabric in a solution of the agent, followed by rinsing and drying.
- the dry fabric can then be permanently creased or pleated merely by steam-pressing under the same conditions as those used traditionally for creasing garments.
- the durability of such creases is. in fact, much less than that of those produced by steaming in the wet state as in Australian specification No. 225,996.
- the use of reductive setting agents in this way causes wool to acquire an objectionable odor and lowers the strength, abrasion, and wrinkle resistance.
- Permanent setting can thus be brought about in wool which is dry to the touch by previously adding compounds which (i) behave as setting agents but which have no reducing power so as to avoid excessive damage to the wool and (2) increase the regain of wool during steaming due to their hydroscopic properties and. preferably. also have a hydrogen bond breaking capacity.
- This will usually entail the addition of two separate compounds to the wool but, as will be disclosed in the following. a single compound can sometimes be made to fulfill both functions.
- the present invention provides a new process for the permanent setting of a textile material consisting of or containing wool or other keratin fibres,'which comprises the steps of. impregnating the material with a solution of a compound or a combination of compoundswhich compound or combination (1) acts as a setting agent by increasing the-number of ionized thiol groups in the wool but is not a reducing agent (2) acts as a hygroscopic substance which increases or has the capacity to increase the moisture content of the wool during heating of the material in a subsequent permanent setting step.
- the process of the present invention may be applied to textile yarns or fabrics.
- the setting agents for use in the present process are preferably alkaline.
- examples of such agents are ammonium or alkali metal salts of carbonic. boric or other weak acids, organic amines and their carbamates or carbonates, quaterrary ammoniumhydroxides or carbonates and other salts of the foregoing bases with weak acids.
- the organic agents are much more efl'ective for setting and cause less damage to the wool than the inorganic agents.- In addition.
- the carbarnates and carbonates are colorless hydrophilic organic or inorganic salt, such as sodium chloride, at hydroxyamine salt, or a quaternary ammonium salt, or (2) an Organic humectant such as glycerol, glycol or other polyhydroxy compounds such as the sugars or their derivatives.
- the hygrm scopic substance is a compound which also has hydrogenbond-breaking properties such as urea, urea derivatives and analogues. lithium bromide, or formamide.
- the preferred concentration or setting agent is less than 5% on the weight of wool and that of the hygroscopic agent less than Greater quantities can be used but these tend to produce an undesirable stiffening of the fabric.
- One preferred combination of chemicals for commercial application is any of the ethanolamines, either mixed or individually, together with urea. Such pretreated fabric needs to be used within 1-2 months.
- the carbonates or substituted carbamates should be used instead of the free base. These can be prepared by bubbling carbon dioxide into the amines in, respectively, the 7 presence or absence of water. The carbamatcs start to hydrolyse on mixing with water so there is not much difference whether the starting product is carbonate or carbamate.
- the ethanolamines besides being setting agents also have hygroscopic properties, so that the desired effect can be produced by using relatively large quantities (for examle. 5 to of such setting agents alone.
- relatively large quantities of setting agent is to be avoided because of possible damage to the wool and, in any case, it is more economical to add instead a substance such as urea.
- a fabric containing a large amount of urea can be permanently set when heated to a sufficiently high temperature with a hot iron, superheated steam or steam under pressure to release ammonia (a setting agent) from the urea.
- the amount of moisture present in the fabric during steaming will be lower than that considered optimum for setting according to Australian specification No. 225,996, but in the preferred forms of the invention, this is compensated for by the presence of a hydrogen-bond-breaking agent. Moreover, because of the smaller amount of water, only relatively small amounts of agent are needed to produce a relatively high effective conccntration in the fabric.
- One method of application is to pass an otherwise finished, and preferably approximately neutral, fabric through an aqueous solution containing the required amounts of both reagents, through squeeze rollers to re move excess solution followed by drying on a tentcr and, finally, steaming for a short time (Vt- A min.) in a blowing machine.
- Tentering and blowing are carried out according to normal mill practice without special precautions but it is preferable to avoid overheating on the tentcr, to avoid excessive tension on the cloth and to cool the fabric thoroughly before removal from the blower.
- the fab ric When pleating fabric pretreated as above, no departures from normal practice are needed.
- the fab ric may be folded in pleating papers and steamed for about A to 1 hr. at atmospheric pressure or a shorter time under pressure. In general, the time of steaming need only be about half that normally used for untreated fabric.
- An important advantage of the present invention is that pretreated fabric can be successfully permanently set following machine pleating which is virtually impossible with the wet-type setting treatments.
- top and bottom bucks of the press should be well padded to insulate the fabric from the hot metal parts. There is a noticeable reduction in crease durability if the fabric is pressed on a press with an uninsulated metal-plate top buck.
- the amount of water taken up by a fabric is about the same whatever its initial moisture content.
- the initial moisture content is advantageous to have the initial moisture content as high as possible i.e. it is preferable for the fabric tobe in an atmosphere of high humidity immediately prior to pressing.
- the garments should not be stored too close to the press since radiant heat from the press will dry them out even though the humidity in the press room might be high.
- the pressing conditions become less critical as the concentration of hygroscopic agent is increased; if more than about 15% is used none of the foregoing precautions need to be observed.
- An application of particular interest is the production of stretch fabrics.
- the wet fabric is stretched in One direction and allowed to contract in the other, dried while held at the new dimensions and later set by a steaming treatment while held at the new dimensions.
- the most convenient and easily controlled sequence is to overfeed the warp up to 50% onto the tenter while stretching the weft up to 50%, and dry as usual.
- the fabric at this stage is quite stable while dry, but if wet or steamed while not held, it will return to its original dimensions and have no stretch properties.
- the set may be made permanent by steaming on the blowing machine for about 5 min., and the resulting fabric will have permanent elastic stretch in the warp, the
- the reagents can be left in the fabric, which can then be pleated or creased with only a slight reduction in effectiveness compared with a normal pretreated fabric.
- the dimensions of the set stretch fabric will generally change by only a few percent in later processing. This change takes the form of a slight expansion in the stretch direction with a corresponding slight loss in stretch, and
- Two other applications of the invention are the permanent glossing of fabric and the permanent straightening, aligning and glossing of fibres in pile fabrics.
- machines for glazing wool fabrics which could be used in conjunction with this process, but it is convenient to describe its application in connection with a rotary press.
- Machines for treating pile fabrics are similar in principle to the rotary press in that the fabric is held against a heated roller, but the surface speed of the roller is generally greater, the contact pressure less and the roller has spiral flutes, all of which are intended to aid the straightening and aligning of the fibres.
- the finishes previously produced by both types of machine using various chemical assistants were not permanent.
- the sequence of events in applying this invention is the same in both cases and so only one description will be given, it being understood that the statements are applicable to pile fabrics being treated on an appropriate machine or normal fabrics being glazed on the rotary press or other suitable machine.
- the fabric is padded with the reagents and dried on the tenter in the normal way as described above.
- the dry fabric is run through the appropriate machine to produce the desired finish, set by steaming on the blower for about 5 minutes, thoroughly cooled by vacuuming in the blower and, finally, run through the first machine again.
- the appearance is better if rotary pressing is the last operation and, in the case of pile fabrics, the final passage through the machine is needed to lift the pile which is flattened in the blower.
- the finish is stable to steaming, steam pressing or wetting with water. Fabric so treated can also be permanently creased or pleated later if required.
- the invention can also be applied at stages of proccsslng other than to fabric.
- the yarn can be permanently set by steaming on the package Le. when the yarn is normally relaxed to remove liveliness.
- the newly woven cloth in the grey state, containing the reagents could be steamed on the blower, as is usual to prevent cockling during later wet treatments, to permanently set the fabric.
- Such a permanent setting operation would he impossible with wet type treatments since the application of the solution of reagents to the loom-state cloth would cause cocitling.
- the reagents in the permanently-set loomstate cloth would be washed out during subsequent wet treatments and would need to be reapplied at the final stage of finishing if the fabric were to be permanently creased later.
- the process can also be applied to flat setting of fabric on the blowing machine where water, if present, causes trouble by wetting the blowing wrapper, thus interferring with vacuuming.
- Such fiat-set fabric can later be permanently creased since the reagents remain in the fabric.
- embossed fabrics can be produced by using a patterned blowing wrapper.
- the durability of the creases or pleats depends on a combination of the concentration of setting agent, concentration of hygroscopic substance, concentration'of moisture and time of steaming. Generally,'a reduction one of these factors can be offset by an increase in the others. Thus, similar results could be obtained with low reagent concentration and long steaming time as with high reagent eoncentration and short steaming time.
- concentration of setting agent concentration of hygroscopic substance
- concentration'of moisture and time of steaming concentration'of moisture and time of steaming.
- Example l.-(a) Pretreatment A piece of all-wool grey worsted serge fabric (7% oz./sq. yd.) was padded through a solution containing 3.3 parts diethanolamine, 8.3 parts urea, 0.3 part anionic wetting agent (any wetting agent will do, but anionic agents e.g. an alkyl sulphate are preferred since these have poor re-wetting properties), and 100 parts water.
- the pressure on the squeeze rollers was adjusted to 60% pick-up resulting in a deposition of 2% setting agent and 5% urea on the weight of wool.
- the fabric was then dried on a single-pass tenter at the original air-dry dimensions; air temperature I70 C.; time of passage 1 min.
- the fabric was rolled into a blowing machine with the minimum of tension, steamed for V4 min. then vacuumed until cool.
- the durability of the creases was tested by soaking in.
- Example 2 Samples were pretreated as in para. (a) of Example I but samples were retained (i) after padding and allowed to aindry, (ii) after tentering. (iii) after tentering and blowing for V: min., (iv) after tentering and blowing for 5 min. and (v) after tentering, blowing for V4 min. followed by pressing fiat for l min. as described in Example 1 for creasing. These were then creased or pleated and tested as described in Example I. The durability of creases and pleats was satisfactory in all samples with the possible exception of those in sample (iv). However sample (ii) was slightly inferior and sample (v) appreciably inferior to samples (i) and (iii) which were the same.
- Samples of the above were also soaked in hot water as for the testing procedure before creasing. Samples (iv) and (v) retained their fiat surface finish whereas samples (i) and (ii) were noticeably cocltled.
- Example 3 A series of samples were pretreated as in para. (a) of Example I but the solution concentrations changed to leave varying amounts of urea and setting agent on the fabric. These were creased or pleated and tested as in Example I. There was an improvement in durability with increasing concentration of either or both reagents up to 7% dicthanolamine and 20% urea (the upper limits studied). A combination of 2% diethanoiamine and 5% urea gave a crease approximately equivalent in durability to that produced with a 2% ammonium thioglycollate wet treatment as in Australian specification 225,996 and consequently, the improvement with higher concentrations was necessarily relatively small and not considered to be worth the extra cost of chemicals.
- Fabric containing 2% diethanolamine and more than urea gave satisfactory creases when pressed with an unpadded bare metal top buck.
- Fabric containing urea alone gave satisfactory creases when pressed for l min. with a hot iron without steam.
- Example 4 A sample of fabric pretreated as in para. (a), Example l, was damped with water on weight of fabric) and then creased and tested as in Example I. The durability of the crease was satisfactory.
- Example 5 Samples of each treatment were creased or pleated and tested as in Example 1. All the samples containing an organic setting agent gave creases and pleats of satisfactory durability. There were slight difi'erences in effectiveness which increased in the following order: mono-, di-, and triethanolamine the same, all the carbonates and carbamates together, followed by ethylene diamine. Difi'erences would be expected since the reagents are compared on a weight rather than equivalent basis.
- Example 1 ting agents were stored and samples periodically creased or pleated and tested as in Example 1. After about one month there was a noticeable reduction in durability with fabric containing the free bases but the durability was still satisfactory. The effect was about the same as prior fiat setting by steaming for 5 min. After 3 months the durability had fallen to an unacceptable level. The durability in fabric containing monoethanolamine carbonate decreased at a slower rate while, with diand triethanolamine carbonate and carbamate, it was still unchanged after 6 months.
- a process for effectively rendering heat settable a textile material selected from the group consisting of wool and other keratin fibers comprising the steps of impregnating the material with a solution containing l) a compound selected from the group consisting of diethanolamine and diethanolamine carbonate and (2) urea, so as to leave on the material less than 5% by weight of diethanolamine, or the equivalent amount of the carbonate,
- a process for effectively rendering heat settable a textile material selected from the group consisting of wool and other keratin fibers comprising the steps of impregnating the material with a solution containing a compound selected from the group consisting of diethanolamine and diethanolamine carbonate, so as to leave on the material from 5% to 25% by weight of diethanolamine, or the equisl'alent amount of the carbonate; and drying said matcria 3.
- a substantially dry heat settable textile material selected from the group consisting of wool and other keratin fibers and containing a compound selected from.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AU36328/63A AU281525B2 (en) | 1963-10-10 | A process forthe durable creasing or other permanent setting of textile materials containing wool or other keratin fibres |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
US3416954A true US3416954A (en) | 1968-12-17 |
Family
ID=3723567
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
US401662A Expired - Lifetime US3416954A (en) | 1963-10-10 | 1964-10-05 | Process for the durable creasing or other permanent setting of textile materials containing wool or other keratin fibres |
Country Status (7)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US3416954A (nl) |
BE (1) | BE654053A (nl) |
DE (1) | DE1469294C3 (nl) |
FR (1) | FR1412074A (nl) |
GB (1) | GB1077185A (nl) |
NL (1) | NL138763B (nl) |
SE (1) | SE326938B (nl) |
Citations (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2382632A (en) * | 1941-11-18 | 1945-08-14 | Ellis Foster Co | Process for rendering wool nonfelting |
US2493765A (en) * | 1947-12-05 | 1950-01-10 | Compte George C Le | Modification of and shrinkproofing of wools with amines |
US2522338A (en) * | 1945-02-19 | 1950-09-12 | Eavenson & Levering Company | Process for shrink-proofing wool and woolen fabrics |
US2740727A (en) * | 1953-04-30 | 1956-04-03 | Albany Felt Co | Compressive shrinking blanket and method for producing same |
US2909448A (en) * | 1955-03-07 | 1959-10-20 | Shell Dev | Salts of polyamine polyepoxide adducts and their use as curing agents for polyepoxides |
US3057036A (en) * | 1960-09-27 | 1962-10-09 | Nathan H Koenig | Process for densifying felts with formamide |
US3059990A (en) * | 1959-11-03 | 1962-10-23 | Nathan H Koenig | Method of setting wool textiles with ethanolamine |
-
1964
- 1964-10-05 US US401662A patent/US3416954A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1964-10-06 BE BE654053A patent/BE654053A/xx unknown
- 1964-10-06 GB GB40669/64A patent/GB1077185A/en not_active Expired
- 1964-10-09 DE DE1469294A patent/DE1469294C3/de not_active Expired
- 1964-10-09 NL NL646411782A patent/NL138763B/nl unknown
- 1964-10-09 FR FR990901A patent/FR1412074A/fr not_active Expired
- 1964-10-09 SE SE12136/64A patent/SE326938B/xx unknown
Patent Citations (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2382632A (en) * | 1941-11-18 | 1945-08-14 | Ellis Foster Co | Process for rendering wool nonfelting |
US2522338A (en) * | 1945-02-19 | 1950-09-12 | Eavenson & Levering Company | Process for shrink-proofing wool and woolen fabrics |
US2493765A (en) * | 1947-12-05 | 1950-01-10 | Compte George C Le | Modification of and shrinkproofing of wools with amines |
US2740727A (en) * | 1953-04-30 | 1956-04-03 | Albany Felt Co | Compressive shrinking blanket and method for producing same |
US2909448A (en) * | 1955-03-07 | 1959-10-20 | Shell Dev | Salts of polyamine polyepoxide adducts and their use as curing agents for polyepoxides |
US3059990A (en) * | 1959-11-03 | 1962-10-23 | Nathan H Koenig | Method of setting wool textiles with ethanolamine |
US3057036A (en) * | 1960-09-27 | 1962-10-09 | Nathan H Koenig | Process for densifying felts with formamide |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE1469294B2 (de) | 1975-01-02 |
NL138763B (nl) | 1973-05-15 |
DE1469294A1 (de) | 1970-04-30 |
NL6411782A (nl) | 1965-04-12 |
GB1077185A (en) | 1967-07-26 |
BE654053A (nl) | 1965-02-01 |
DE1469294C3 (de) | 1975-08-07 |
FR1412074A (fr) | 1965-09-24 |
SE326938B (nl) | 1970-08-10 |
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