US2607655A - Striped, creped cellulose fabrics without moire effect - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 19, 1952 E. WEISS ETAL 2,607,655

STRIPED, CREPED CEJLLULOSE FABRics WITHOUT MOIRE EFFECT:

Filed July 29, 1949 INVENTORS. RNST Wanss. KARI. RlscH.

wfmsv I144 74m- ATTORNEYS.

Patented Aug. 19,

2;. UNITED STATE-S PAT OFFI E v 2,607,655,16 f. f] i 7 STRIPED, 1 CREPED CELI'J UIJOSE FABRIGSQ' 1 r I WITHOUT MOIRE EFFECT Ernst "Weissand l' Karl Risen; Wattwtl; ;-swiaer; land,-'assignors' tojHeberlein Patent Corpora qiztion; New YorklfN Y ,a corporation of'New "IIii-SWitirIahG August 3, 1948 '9 oi irrisi wl. s--114.5)

invention relates to a-process for pro'd1.ic-- H 1 c+d-n ing substantially parallel COIOI'SQ'SfiIiPBd'CIGDB" m===i like effects on cellulose-containing fabrics and to 7 products obtained therefrom.

be iis ifiii by p r hft i f1g 1: f a%:i: t??? iieii t Width a rtst v s}? t i r ng in the form of stripes and subsequently subjectof Space Petween aidmcent shrmk'reslstant ing it to a caustic lyeitreatment whereby the $32 333?gg ijgggig f fj sg $535k?" Pi t? a s? 151 535; ifiit i s iiitfiiiiii r3 figned 9 g g r t g i 1? 6-: may be obtained by printing the lye on the fabric-: W 3 6 W1 9 S gg p in the form of stripes. In both cases, an even 9 6 space 6 9 Jacen 5 crepe-like curling of the fabricllsurface is obgri gg :21 g fhzl ggagi 27hr; glvtlidtinogwiheszuicfiogd I tained. It has.alsoebeenaproposed-, to combine 1.

" i I such shrinkin efiects with 'color printing. Printg -ii f i f fi i t- 1 ing of striped patterns with which the stripe-like a t d shrunk areas .are parallel, frequently produces t i l g. e fii Ween Jacenundesirablefelfects namely, moir' effects, giving 5 mm rislistgn npes 7 T wmay be expressed rise to complaints/in; the trade. a by t lw i m r lThepprincipal object. of the present invention, 0 I I V c=di accordingly, is to produce such substantially par..-

c+d allel, colored." stripe and crepe-like effectswhile IV Y i avoidingthe objectionable moir effect. V 4

The inventionaccordinglyconsists ofthe' novel; W ere a is the width; of acolored r p r' the" productsas well as thenovel processes andlste'p's p e w -a c co d p their? of Ipro'cesses;according to which'such products 7 Width a non-shrinkable i i t are;manufacturedfithe specific-embodiments of P W P a e non-Shrinkable f l E which are described hereinafter by Way of ex- 15 y n 6 r e I ample and in accordance with which we now s h k fabric'in theiusuarlimanrii prefer to practice the invention ner, 'a iS pIOduCed- Whi'Ch dOeSFIIOt" It has been discovered in accordance with our h hs-t i -"5 e 1 invention that the moir effect can be eliminated The accompanying drawingsga're intended 0' by adjusting t t of t colored stripes, the show the results of processes operating-inaccord-i, distance therebetween, and the width of anceiwith'theLvariant-of the invention re'lati'ng shrunk and unshrunk areas. 1705 e q IlS i t 'g l gure- 1) a d 'the We have found in accordancegwith our invene u m n s i .accopdancel tion that the objectionable effects "referred to with this-"Variant To-f: theiinvetlbiontaeqwhich may be overcome by printing aiabric with m consequently produce the undes1red moire effects l allel -spacecl coloredstripes, the;fabric*containing v (Flgure f is sufficient cellulose to-produce a crepereffectwhe'n 40 these drawmgsi i treat witha caustic-shrinking agent capable j. Flgure 1 represents a h h magnified fragoff sh king the cellulose; and :the fabric also? ment of a color stripe fabri intad with a resist} having:resistnfl trjpe whi h larefresistantto v running parallel to the parallel stripes of the slirink'ag' as -*we11;,as shrinkable; stripes.;1i,The"j i s the. ia r r ar s b nm e are einzacet' shrink-resistant stripes and shrinkable stripes ri cew h in t on; J l z are parallel to the colored ,stripes. The fabric Figure 2 ShOWS a similar ic wi h sharroweril' is shrunkyby app1ying -a usti soda as a Shrink colored stripes and with a resist printed in at: ing agent thereto. The shrinking agent is then manner so that the moil fefiects pp removed from the fabric. The relation between i Referring to u e it'fwill be noted that;; the colored stripes, shrink-resistant stripes arlii so the letter a is the width of a colored peb the spaces between is in accordance with both h 51 396 W d h W Bnica jacentfcoloredrji of the following equations; ipes, eds; the width ofra-shrink resistant strip 3 disthe; widthgof thei space between' adjacjent I Q Q shrink resistant stripes.

55 In this figure it will :be noted that the third where. a is the width of acolored stripe, b. is'the' space between adjacent colored stripes;- c is the i 3 stripe from the left in the figure shows crosshatching on either side thereof. This crosshatching is intended to designate the area referred to above and this area 0 extends all the way across the stripe mentioned. The same is true of all other stripes in both Figures 1 and 2, in which a portion of the cross-hatched area appears next to the colored stripe. In all such areas the resistant area 0 extends across the colored stripe. In this Figure 1 the fabric, unenlarged, has these dimensions: a=0.8 mm. b=1.6 mm. c=1.2 mm., and 11:24 mm. Applying these dimensions to the Formulas I and II given above we have the following:

and

Therefore, 1E3. Where n equals 3, which is an odd integer other than 1, the resulting fabric does not show the moir effect.

In Fig. 2, (#505 mm.; e512 mm. CEOB mm., and dELO mm. Applying these figures to the above formulas we have:

1.0 1.2 (Ewe and Therefore, n equals 2.12 which is approximately 2, which is an even integer, and which will result in the moir efi'ect.

As Fig. 2 clearly shows, the shrink-resistant stripes in the zones marked A coincide at least approximately with the colored stripes, whereas in the region marked B they are in' the intervals between every two colored stripes. After having been shrunk, a fabric made'in accordance with Fig. 2 shows such regions A"'and B in respect of the shrunk and non-shrunk stripes and the colored stripes and. the spaces therebetween. The alternating succession of such regions A and B is the cause of moir effects.

In comparison to Fig. 2, no regions A and B are seen in Fig. 1 where there is a non-shrinkable stripe in between every two colored stripes and the one succeeding partly covers the colored stripe. In this case no, or only a slight moir effect appears.

The following are examples of our processes we now prefer to practice it. In the first three of these examples the width of the stripes and spaces therebetween are in the relations of the equations I c a In the fourth, fifth and sixth examples the width of the stripes and spaces therebetween relate to the formulas It is to be understood that these examples are illustrative and that the invention is not to be restricted thereto except as indicatedin the appended 9 m i r 4 Example 1 A bleached and mercerized light weight fabric such as cotton muslin with threads number 80 single per inch in the warp and 82 threads number single per inch in the weft is printed in a stripe pattern with a vat dyestufi as for instance, Cibanon Black (Color Index 1172), the width of the stripe being 0.8 mm. and the interspace between, stripes being 1.6 mm. The fabric is then steamed, washed and dried under tension. Then a known water-soluble gum reserve, for instance, gum arabic, is printed on the fabric provided with the color print, in the form of stripes of 1.2 mm. in width, spaced at 2.4 mm. running parallel to the color stripes. Then the fabric is dried and subjected to the reaction of caustic soda of 38? B., whereby the areas not printed with the gum reserve shrink. Then the fabric is acidified with diluted sulfuric acid, washed until neutral, and dried. The relation of the width of a stripe to be shrunk to the space of two such stripes is equal to the relation of a color stripe space to the color stripe width. The mathematical relationship is expressed as follows in accordance with the Formulas I and II given above:

and

and Y Suitable effects may also be obtained with a stripe pattern with a color stripe width of about 1 mm. (a) and with a width between stripes of about 2 mm. '(b); (c) in'this caseequals 1.5 mm. (d) equals 3mm. Accordingly,'substituting these'figures in the above Formulas I and II and . are 2 j-gl 5; 1 L%'3 e teem- In the "above "and, following fexamples; the result-ing effectscan be further modified by dyeing" the'jfabricin the piece or by combining with any other'desir'ed printed pattern.

Instead' of printing gum arable on the face'ofthe fabric as a gum resist in the above Example Y 1, 'a watereinsoluble lacquer, for instance, a'nitro cellulose lacduer, can be printed on the reverse side of the-fabric. In so doing, this nitro-celluloselacquer is made up of the-concentration of 240 gms, of nitro-cellulose to 748 cc. of a mixture -of amylacetate; aethylacetate andethyl-' alcohol as a solvent and-is applied in a well known manner. The stripes of this lacquer on the back of the fabric occupy exactly the same position'as the stripes of gum arabic occupy on the face of the fabric, but, of course, when such nitro-cellulose. lacqueris applied, the gum arabic.

stripes aremmitted. 'After washing thefabric,

As starting material, a mixed light weight fabric is used, the warp of which consists of alternating stripes of 6 nylon yarns 7Q denier single and 10 cotton yarns number 80 single, whereas the weft consists entirely of number 120 single cotton yarn. With a count of 80" threads per inch in the warp and '72 threads per'inch in' the weft, the width of the stripes, formed by Violet {Ra (0610i- Index 1104) Thereafter" cellulose' nitrate lacquer is printed in another stripe pattern, running parallel to the colored stripe pattern, on, the backside of the fabric.

After ;drying, the fabric is'shrunk with caustic g soda solution 36 B., treated with dilutesulf uric' acid, washed until neutral and stenter dried,

The width of the color stripes and the inter-j spaces being 0.8 and 1.6mm; respectively, and "the width of the lacquerprinted stripes and the? corresponding interspaces being 1.2 and2. 4 Theresult is a crepe-like fabric with a crisp hand and a vivid play of color printed stripes without any formation of an undesired Jrnoir "effect. In thisj exarnple,

A fabric, consisting of number 70 single mixed spun yarns, containing 84 per cent cottonand 16 per cent viscose spun rayon,.with 86 ends and 78 picks: per inch, is bleached and stenter-dried. It is then printed in'a stripeipattern with azvat".

dyestuff, as for instance vCiba'Scarle'tfi'r (Color Index; 1228). .The width of the. printed stripes is 0.5;mm., the distance-between. two printed stripes, is 1.5.mm. After steaming andsoaping the fabric is dried, overprinted in another stripev the alternating "groups of nylon yarns and cotton yarns in the direction of the warp are 1.9 mm. and 3.2 mm., respectively. This fabric is boiled and bleached and then color-printed in 'a stripe pattern, the stripes running parallel to the warp; the width of the colored stripes being 1.25 mm. and the width of the interspace 2.1 mm. For color-printing the color stripe, pigment printing pastes, as represented byQthefAridyef printing colors and for instance described in U. S. Patent 2,364,738, jareapplied After fixing of the color print, the fabric is treated for 5 minutes without any ,tension in a 30. Baum causticisoda "solution, washed with hot lwater,

acidified with dilute sulfuric acid, washed with cold water until neutral and dried on a pin stenter without applying-tension warpwise.

resultis a crepe-like fabric with a vivid play of',

the color printed stripesagainst the unprinted background and with no moire effect. In this example, 7 g r 1,

and

Example 3 The' pattern, with a thickened 36 per cent caustic soda solution, the width of the caustic printed stripes. and the interspaces being 2. mm; each, to locally shrink the fabric. Thereafter; the fabric is treated with dilute sulfuric acid in order .to

remove the caustic, thoroughly washed until neu-J. tral and dried.- The resulting fabric shows an interesting crepon, effect with a vivid play of,

color, I v

' Example 5 A mixed light Weight fabric, the warp of Which,- consists of alternating stripes of 9 threads each of number '70 single gray cotton yarn and '75 denier formaldehyde treated viscose rayon yarn, whereas the weft consists entirely of' number 9011' single cotton yarn, is boiled and bleached". The count of the fabric is 82 ends and 68 picks per inch; the width of the stripes formed by alternating groups of cotton and formaldehyde treated rayon yarns the warp is about 3 mm.

The formaldehyde treatment of the viscose yarn is carried out as follows:

Skeins of filament viscose rayon yarn are, treated'for 15 minutes in an aqueous bath con-' taining per, liter: 350 grams'ofa 38. percent formaldehyde technicalsolution and 6 grams of ammonium chloride; hxcess liquor is removed by hydro'extracting, whereupon the skeins, after being dried at 70 C. are exposed for 15 minutes to a temperature of C. The yarn is then soaped, washed and dried.

The bleached fabric is printed with a colored pigment, as represented by the Aridye printing colors and for instance described in U. S. Patent 2,364,? 38, in a stripe pattern running parallel to the warp, the width of the colored stripes being 1 mm, the distance between two colored stripes being 2 mm. Finally, the fabric is shrunk with 36 B. caustic soda solution, treated with diluted sulfuric acid, washed until neutral and dried. The finished fabric shows undulated stripes formed by the groups of viscose yarns superimposed by color printed stripes, which tor mas-r gether apply to the fabric a vivid appearance Example 6 The starting material is a fabric, the warp of which consists of alternating stripes of number 38 raw cotton yarn and number 38 cotton yarn which, before weaving, was boiled and treated with a hydrophobing agent such as stearam'idomethoxyinethylpyridinium chloride, whereas the filling or weft consists entirely of number 44 raw cotton yarn. The count of this fabric is 72 ends and 78 picks per inch, and each alternating group of raw and pre-treated yarn in the Warp consists of 9 threads each, thus forming stripes of about 3.2 mm. This fabric, after desizing, is boiled in a bath containing 3 grams per liter of soap and 1 gram of sodium carbonate, and if desired, is bleached in a sodium hypochlorite solution containing 2 grams per liter of active chlorine. Then it is stentered and color printed in a stripe pattern, running parallel to the warp. The width of the color printed stripes and of the interspaces being 1.2 mm. and 2 mm. respectively. For color printing vat dyestuffs as described in Examples 1, 3 and 4 may be used. Finally, the fabric is padded with caustic soda solution 36 B., laid down on a conveyor for 5.

minutes, where I it is allowed to shrink, then treated with dilute sulfuric acid, washeduntil neutral and dried. The result is a vivid play of color printed stripes on a crepe-lik fabric without any formation of undesirable moir eifects.

What we claim is:

1. A process which comprises printing a fabric with parallel spaced colored stripes, said fabric containing sufiicient cellulose to produce a crepe effect when treated with a caustic shrinking agent capable of shrinking the cellulose, said fabric having resistant stripes which are resistant to shrinkage, and shrinkable stripes, said shrink resistant stripes and shrinkable stripes being parallel to said colored stripes, shrinking the fabric by applying caustic soda shrinking agent thereto and removing the shrinking agent from the fabric, said colored stripes, shrink resistant stripes and the spaces therebetween being in the relation of both of the equations where a is the width of a colored stripe, b is the space between adjacent colored stripes, c is the Width of a shrink resistant stripe, d is the width of the space between adjacent shrink resistant stripes, and n is'an odd integer except 1. 2. A process which comprises printing a fabric 8 *1 withparallel spaced colored stripes, said fabric containing sufilcient'cellulose to produce a crepe effect when treated with a caustic shrinking agent capable of shrinking the cellulose, said fabric having resistant stripes which are resistant to shrinkage, and shrinkable stripes, said shrink resistant stripes and shrinkable stripes being parallel to ,said colored stripes, shrinking the fabric by applying caustic soda shrinking agent thereto and removing the shrinking agent from the fabric, said colored stripes, shrink resistant stripes and the spaces therebetween being in the relation of both of the equations a b :270 where a is thewidth of a colored stripe, b is the space between adjacent colored stripes, c is thewidth of a shrink resistant stripe, d islthe width of. the space between adjacent shrink resistant stripes, and k is any integer.

3. The process of claim 1 in which n is equal to 3.

4. The process of claim 1 in which the fabric consists of naturalcellulose throughout.

5. The process of claim 1 in which a waterinsoluble nitro cellulose lacquer resist is printed in stripes on the reverse side of the fabric.

6. The .process of claim 1 in which a reserve against caustic shrinking agents is printed onith fabric as'the spaced shrink resistant stripes.

'7. The process of claim 2 in which a reserve against caustic shrinking agents is printed on the fabric as the spaced shrink resistant stripes.

8. The process of claim 1 in which the fabric contains cellulose fiber as therein stated, with nylon fibers forming parallel stripes and constituting the shrink resistant stripes.

9. The product produced by the process of claim 1.

ERNST WEISS. v KARL RISCH.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,171,513 Heberlein et a1. Aug. 29, 1939 2,200,389 Finalyson et al. May 14,1940 2,319,903 .Huey et al May 25, 1943 FOREIGN PATENTS Number 1 Country Date- 'l9,388 Great Britain June 29, 1895 0f- 1894 r 482,181 Great Britain Mar. 24, 1938 494,673 Great Britain Oct. 26, 1938

Claims (1)

1. A PROCESS WHICH COMPRISES PRINTING A FABRIC WITH PARALLEL SPACED COLORED STRIPES, SAID FABRIC CONTAINING SUFFICIENT CELLULOSE TO PRODUCE A CREPE EFFECT WHEN TREATED WITH A CAUSTIC SHRINKING AGENT CAPABLE OF SHRINKING THE CELLULOSE, SAID FABRIC HAVING RESISTANT STRIPES WHICH ARE RESISTANT TO SHRINKAGE, AND SHRINKABLE STRIPES, SAID SHRINK RESISTANT STRIPES AND SHRINKABLE STRIPES BEING PARALLEL TO SAID COLORED STRIPES, SHRINKING THE FABRIC BY APPLYING CAUSTIC SODA SHRINKING AGENT THERETO AND REMOVING THE SHRINKING AGENT FROM THE FABRIC, SAID COLORED STRIPES, SHRINK RESISTANT STRIPES AND THE SPACES THEREBETWEEN BEING IN THE RELATION OF BOTH OF THE EQUATIONS

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