US2171513A - Process for treating fabrics and like materials to produce effects therein and products therefrom - Google Patents
Process for treating fabrics and like materials to produce effects therein and products therefrom Download PDFInfo
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- US2171513A US2171513A US63808A US6380836A US2171513A US 2171513 A US2171513 A US 2171513A US 63808 A US63808 A US 63808A US 6380836 A US6380836 A US 6380836A US 2171513 A US2171513 A US 2171513A
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- yarns
- fabric
- treated
- cotton
- effects
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title description 77
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 title description 63
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title description 30
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title description 7
- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formaldehyde Chemical compound O=C WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 81
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 47
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium hydroxide Inorganic materials [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 41
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 37
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 24
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 23
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 22
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 17
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 17
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 16
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 15
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 12
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 11
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 8
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 6
- XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acetate Chemical compound CCOC(C)=O XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 6
- JIAARYAFYJHUJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc dichloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Zn+2] JIAARYAFYJHUJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 6
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000001117 sulphuric acid Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000011149 sulphuric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- YXFVVABEGXRONW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Toluene Chemical compound CC1=CC=CC=C1 YXFVVABEGXRONW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 244000215068 Acacia senegal Species 0.000 description 3
- 229920000084 Gum arabic Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000205 acacia gum Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000010489 acacia gum Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000001976 improved effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000010019 resist printing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000005074 zinc chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000011592 zinc chloride Substances 0.000 description 3
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia chloride Chemical compound [NH4+].[Cl-] NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920002955 Art silk Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 240000008564 Boehmeria nivea Species 0.000 description 2
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000020 Nitrocellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001584775 Tunga penetrans Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000010017 direct printing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002657 fibrous material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920001220 nitrocellulos Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002522 swelling effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- ALWXETURCOIGIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-nitropropylbenzene Chemical compound CCC([N+]([O-])=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 ALWXETURCOIGIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QPLDLSVMHZLSFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper oxide Chemical compound [Cu]=O QPLDLSVMHZLSFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005751 Copper oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000322338 Loeseliastrum Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001446467 Mama Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 1
- MGJKQDOBUOMPEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N N,N'-dimethylurea Chemical compound CNC(=O)NC MGJKQDOBUOMPEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GRYLNZFGIOXLOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nitric acid Chemical compound O[N+]([O-])=O GRYLNZFGIOXLOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMEGJBVQLJJKKX-HOTMZDKISA-N [(2R,3S,4S,5R,6R)-5-acetyloxy-3,4,6-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]methyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC[C@@H]1[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H](O1)O)OC(=O)C)O)O SMEGJBVQLJJKKX-HOTMZDKISA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940081735 acetylcellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000010306 acid treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QJLDTVCWUDCBME-UHFFFAOYSA-K aluminum;trithiocyanate Chemical compound [Al+3].[S-]C#N.[S-]C#N.[S-]C#N QJLDTVCWUDCBME-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000019270 ammonium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(4-fluorophenyl)-methyl-(1,2,4-triazol-1-ylmethyl)silane;methyl n-(1h-benzimidazol-2-yl)carbamate Chemical compound C1=CC=C2NC(NC(=O)OC)=NC2=C1.C=1C=C(F)C=CC=1[Si](C=1C=CC(F)=CC=1)(C)CN1C=NC=N1 VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003518 caustics Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002301 cellulose acetate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000431 copper oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000005470 impregnation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012182 japan wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011253 protective coating Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001846 repelling effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002966 varnish Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
- D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
- D06M11/155—Halides of elements of Groups 2 or 12 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/55—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/62—Complexes of metal oxides or complexes of metal salts with ammonia or with organic amines
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/68—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
- D06M11/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with oxides of phosphorus; with hypophosphorous, phosphorous or phosphoric acids or their salts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
Definitions
- This invention relates to a process for producing pattern fabrics and products therefrom.
- One of the objects of the invention is to provide simple and novel processes for the produc: tion of pattern crepe-effects, pattern translucent or transparent eifects or for the production of a combination of both effects.
- Another object of the invention is to provide special starting fabrics containing different kinds of yarns which enable the production of the desired finish effects.
- the starting fabric contains at least two different sets or kinds of yarns, one set being of such character as to be substantially insensitive to swelling agents to which the other of the two sets of yarns is sensitive so as to give or enhance the desired optical contrast between the respective areas of the fabric consisting of the two sets of yarns.
- Another object of the invention is to provide products from such processes having novel and improved characteristics. Other objects will be in part obviousand in part pointed out hereinafter.
- the invention comprises the novel products as well as the novel processes and steps of processes according to which such products are manufactured, the specific embodiments of which are described hereinafter by way of examples and in accordance with which we now prefer to practice the invention.
- the yarns which according to this part of our invention are present initially in the fabric as raw yarn containing the natural incrustations.
- the raw yarn may be woven to' form stripes, diamonds, etc.
- other fabrics can be finished in the same manner, for-instance knitted goods, hosiery goods,
- printed goods etc. which consist of previously treated and -raw vegetable yarns containing incrustations may be employed.
- the fabric can be further treated in any desired manner, namely by bleaching, dyeing,-flnishing or the like.
- tone in' tone effects can be obtained since the previously treated opened-up fiber has the property ofv consuming more. dye than the raw fiberx
- the expressionftone intone is intended to indicate" the effect gi en by such a combination .of dyed fibers possessing different shades of color.
- the process is preferably employed with cotton containing fabrics, but the other natural vegetable fiber products can be used instead of cotton. It is important, however, in selecting for the effect yarns, such natural vegetable fibrous material as contains the natural incrustations.
- the fabric may contain one kind of fiber alone or there may be an admixture of fibers so long as some of the yarns are relatively insensitive to the swelling agent.
- Example 1 Cotton muslin, the base of which consists of yarn previously scoured and into which effect-yarns of raw cotton containing incrustations are woven in stripes, is impregnated with caustic soda solution of 37 B. at 10 C. for 3 seconds. The material is pressed and set aside at room temperature for three minutes in unstretched condition. Thereupon it is washed hot at about 85 C., acidified and bleached carefully in the usual manner. Finally it is dried in loose condition. The effect produced is shown by the wave-like projections of the effect-threads which impart to the fabric a crepe-like character.
- Example 2 Muslin woven from scoured cotton, yarn and also containing as effect yarns individual raw cotton yarns containing incrustations woven into warp and filler in diamond shaped patterns is printed with a gum resist, for example gum arable, locally. After the drying of the resist the fabric is mercerized without tension in accordance with Example 1, washed, whereby also the resist is removed, and finished. The resist parts are set off as patterns from the checkered pattern background.
- a gum resist for example gum arable
- reagents that may be used to give similar translucent effects, as is well-known, are the following agents used alone: sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid, mixed acid (nitric and sulphuric acid), caustic soda solution which has been cooled down to about 10 C., zinc chloride, calcium thiocyanate, ammoniacal copper oxide and others.
- agents used alone sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid, mixed acid (nitric and sulphuric acid), caustic soda solution which has been cooled down to about 10 C., zinc chloride, calcium thiocyanate, ammoniacal copper oxide and others.
- the fabrics which have been treated to produce the translucent or transparent effects can, if desired, be further treated in order to render the original raw yarns containing the natural incrustations susceptible to further treatment. For instance they can be treated to render them more absorptive to dyestuffs.
- Such raw naturally incrusted yarns can be "opened” up by bleaching or other opening up process described above. After the opening up of these raw yarns so that they then exist in a fabric which has been rendered more transparent or more translucent, the fabric can be treated with a shrinking agent such as caustic soda which will cause these non-transparent yarns to shrink so that a wavy effect will appear on the surface of the fabric of the transparent or translucent fabric.
- Example 3 A cotton muslin fabric, the base of which" consists of scoured cotton yarns containing woven stripes of coarse raw cotton yarns, and also effect yarns containing natural incrustations is treated with sulphuric acid of 53 B. at 12 C. for 8 seconds. Thereupon the acid is washed out, the fabric is mercerized with caustic soda solution of 28 B. at 15 C. The fabric is then bleached.
- the resultant product is a transparent fabric in which appears stripe effects, these stripes being the raw cotton which has not been transparentized due to the protective coating of the incrustations. These stripes remain soft and their presence does not tend to render the fabric more brittle. They give an optical contrast in which because of their non-transparent character, they are set off from the transparent base.
- Example 4 A cotton muslin fabric, the base of which consists of scoured cotton yarns and also containing woven stripes of coarse raw cotton yarns, as effect yarns, containingnatural incrustations is treated with a solution of 70 parts of zinc chloride in 30 parts of water at 100 C. during 20 seconds. The fabric is then washed with cold water and finished in a frame. A similar eifect is obtained as described in Example 3.
- Example 5. A cotton muslin consisting of scoured yarns and raw yarns as efi'ect yarns forming a suitable design is printed with a resist of gum arabic and dried. Then it is treated with sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 10 seconds at 8 C. Then itis washed thoroughly, whereby also the resist is removed, and then bleached and finished. The resist parts stand out as patterns from the transparent background which is traced through by opaque designs due to the raw yarns.
- Example 6 A starting fabric of cotton muslin as described in Example 3 is transparentized in the same way as is pointed out in said example. The fabric is then k er-boiled and bleached and dried in a frame. Afterwards it is treated with caustic soda solution according to Example 1. The raw threads opened up by kier-boiling now shrink whereupon the transparent parts which remain substantially unchanged by the alkali treatment, assume'a wavelike appearance.
- Impregnating with solutions of waxes and higher melting fats and hydrocarbons for instance 10% beeswax in benzine; 10% Japan wax in benzine; 8% synthetic wax in benzine; rubber in benzol toluol, chlorinated rubber in toluol, paraflin in benzine and the like.
- varnishes and resin-like substances for instance cellulose esters, for example 15% nitrocellulose in a1cohol+ethyl acetate, solution of dimethyl urea, acetyl cellulose in acetone, and the like.
- the vegetable or animal yarns or rayon yarns which have been made insensitive to swelling agents by any of the above-described methods are now woven with previously treated opened up yarns, that is, with yarns which are affected by swelling agents. Especially favorable results may be obtained with lustrous and dyed yarns which have been made insensitive in the manner indicated above.
- the completed fabrics are shrunk by means of swelling agents known to the textile finisher including those mentioned above for crepe-like effects under (a). After the washing out of the swelling agent the insensitizing material, depending-on its nature, may either be removed or may remain in the fabric. In the latter case, if their presence for some particular purpose should prove objectionable they may be removed by a special process. In most cases, however, such subsequent treatment is not necessary.
- the completed fabrics can be improved further by subsequent dyeing if desired. Such dyeing may be performed if desired before the insensitizing materials have been removed.
- This process may be combined with the customary resist printing processes, briefly referred to above, to obtain manifold effects.
- Example 7 A calico fabric, the base of which consists of secured yarns and also containing as effect yarns woven stripes of mercerized cotton yarns which have been impregnated with a solution made up from 15 parts of nitrocellulose, 57 parts of ethyl acetate and 28 parts of spirit is treated with caustic soda solution according to Example 1. Similar effects of those of Example 1 are obtained but the lustre of the mercerised effect threads imparts a good appearance to the finished fabric.
- Example 8 A cotton muslin which contains scoured cotton yarns and as effect yarns, cotton yarns which have been mercerized, dyed and impregnated with a solution of 10% beeswax in benzine, is treated according to Example 1. A special effect is obtained by means of the dyed effect yarns.
- Example 9 A cotton muslin the base of which consists of scoured yarns and also containing effect yarns made insensitive to the action of parchmentizing agents by impregnation with an emulsion of paraflin (for example Migasol marketed by Deutschen fiir chemische Industrie, Basel) is treated with sulfuric acid in the same way as described in Example 3.
- the effect yarns remain soft and give an optical contrast because of their non-transparent character.
- a full cotton voile is treated in a jigger for 15 minutes at 50 'C. in a 30% formaldehyde bath to which has been added 0.75% aluminum thiocyanate. After squeezing out the excess liquor the fabric is dried at aboue 120 C. for 20 minutes. The fabric may be exposed to'an air current or left lying around for a period until any odor of formaldehyde disappears. The fabric thus treated upon compression to test crease-resistance is smoothed out again and shows an agreeable soft feel.
- a viscose spun-rayon fabric is treated in a jigger for 15 minutes at 20 C. in a bath containing 20 liter of technical solution of formaldehyde (38%) 400 grams of ammonium chloride and 80 liters of water. Excess liquor is squeezed out, the fabric is dried at 70 C. for about 15 minutes then exposed to a temperature of 120 C. during 20 minutes. Then follows a short treatment with a hot soap bath, containing about 3 grams of soap per liter. After washing out and drying the fabric is remarkably resistant to creasing. Similar yarns may replace the fabrics in the two examples mentioned, taken from said Frauenfelder application, Serial No. 62,994, to produce the desired inactive formaldehyde cellulose yarns herein referred to.
- Such insensitive yarns accordingly may be employed with sensitive yarns for the production of crepe-like effects, as well as for the production of fabrics having transparent or translucent areas.
- the formaldehyde cellulose yarns also possess a certain repelling property towards dyestuffs.
- cellulosic yarns treated with formeldehyde as above show an excellent resistance to scouring (boiling with dilute alkalies) and even kier-boiling (boiling with dilute alkalies under pressure). They do not lose their valuable properties of not being affected by the shrinking agents nor by the transparentizing agents referred to in Parts 1 and 2 of the present application.
- these formaldehyde treated yarns there is no need of weaving scoured yarns or yarns otherwise opened up (called active cellulosic fibres in this application) together with the inactive formaldehyde yarns, although such scoured yarns may be used if desired.
- These formaldehyde cellulose yarns may be woven into a. fabric with the raw vegetable yarns, for instance into a cotton voile or Example 11.
- Example 11 A raw cotton muslin, the base of which consists of raw cotton yarnsand also containing effect twists of cotton treatedaccording to the example for cotton of said copending application is scoured, bleached and treated with caustic soda lye, according to Example 1. Similar effects are obtained as in Example 1. It is to be understood that no subsequent bleaching occurs in this case, as it was necessary in Example 1 because of the raw effect threads.
- Example 12 A muslin web the base of which consists of raw cotton yarns and also containing viscose yarns treated according to the example for viscose of said copending application is scoured, bleached and afterwards treated as described in The effect yarns in this and in the previous example withstand scouring and bleaching without losing their reserving properties. Whereas the raw yarns, opened up by scouring shrink through the action of caustic alkali lye the effect yarns remain substantially unchanged and form wavelike projections all over the web.
- Example 13 A muslin such as used in either of the Examples 11 and 12 is scoured bleached, dried and printed with a gum resist, for example gum arabic, locally. Then it is treated according to Example 1 with mercerizing lye without tension, washed, acidified and washed again. If this fabric, which has already assumed a crepe-like character, the resist parts standing out as patterns, is now dyed three shades are obtained. The shrunk parts are dyed strongly, the resist parts somewhat less, the effect threads behaving differently to different (colors) dyes.
- a gum resist for example gum arabic
- crepe-effects obtained are in general character similar to those secured in connection with the other processes described above.
- Example 14 A raw cotton muslin containing effect yarns of cotton treated with formaldehyde according to the example for treatment of cotton taken from said Frauenfelder application given above above-mentioned copending application is kier-boiled bleached and dried in a frame. Afterwards it is exposed to sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 8 seconds at C., washed, mercerized with tension, washed with hot water, acidified,
- Example 15 A raw cotton muslin containing effect threads of viscose artificial silk treated according to example for treatment of viscose taken from said Frauenfelder application given above the copending application mentioned above is scoured, bleached, dried ina frame and printed with a resist of gum arabic. Afterwards it is exposed to sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 8.
- the process employing the formaldehyde cellulose yarns is very simple andreliable. Due to the change in the dye-absorbing properties of the formaldehyde cellulose yarns, on dyeing a wide range of color contrast in the fabric is obtained, some of which are different from those obtained by other processes herein described.
- the formaldehyde-treated yarns may consist of natural vegetable fibers as for instance cotton, linen. hemp, ramie and the like and also of cellulose-containing artificial fibers such as viscose, rayon, cuprammonium artificial silk, saponified nitro-rayon and artificial staple fibers.
- As basic substances for the vegetable yarns there may be employed all natural spinning fibers.
- the fabrics prepared from the yarns may be of any kind, as for. instance woven, braided or knitted fabrics and may contain both kinds of yarn, formaldehyde treated and untreated yarn, in varying proportions. That is, either the natural active fiber may predominate or the formaldehyde cellulose fiber may predominate to give different effects.
- active fibers it is intended to mean natural fibers containing cellulose, e. g. cotton, linen, ramie and hemp or other natural cellulosecontaining material which is capable of being shrunk or rendered more transparent or translucent, by any of the agents for such purpose herein described.
- inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibers refers to fibers containing cellulose treated with formaldehyde as herein described.
- the expression "parchmentizing agent as em ployed in the claims refers to sulfuric acid, zinc chloride, or similar agent which acts on active fibers to produce a parchmentizing effect. This effect ordinarily shows translucence or transparence, usually with some stiffening of the fabric.
- the expression parchmentlzed is intended to refer to the result of the action of such parchmentizing agent.
- a process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with a swelling agent a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which are active to swelling agents, and altering the active fibres under the swelling action to form a visible pattern while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said swelling action.
- a process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with sulfuric acid of parchmentizing strength, a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which have been treated to remove surface incrustations and render the fibres substantially active to the parchmentizing agent, to parchmentize the active fibres While a the inactive fibres remain substantially unaffected by said agent.
- a process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with caustic soda of shrinking strength, a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which have been treated to remove surface incrustations, and render the fibres substantially active to the shrinking agent, and shrinking the active fibres under the action of the shrinking agent to produce a creping effect, while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said shrinking agent.
- a process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres successively with a swelling parchmentizing agent and with a swelling shrinking agent, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres active to swelling agents and altering said active fibres by said agents to produce in some fibres shrinking and in others parchmentizing while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said swelling agents.
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Description
Patented Aug. 29, 1939 UNITED sTATEs PATENT OFFICE PROCESS FOR TREATING FABRICS AND LIKE MATERIALS TO PRODUCE EFFECTS THEREIN AND PRODUCTS THEREFROM No Drawing. Application February 13, 1936, Se-
rial No. 63,808. 1935 6 Claims.
This invention relates to a process for producing pattern fabrics and products therefrom.
One of the objects of the invention is to provide simple and novel processes for the produc: tion of pattern crepe-effects, pattern translucent or transparent eifects or for the production of a combination of both effects.
Another object of the invention is to provide special starting fabrics containing different kinds of yarns which enable the production of the desired finish effects. According to the invention the starting fabric contains at least two different sets or kinds of yarns, one set being of such character as to be substantially insensitive to swelling agents to which the other of the two sets of yarns is sensitive so as to give or enhance the desired optical contrast between the respective areas of the fabric consisting of the two sets of yarns. Another object of the invention is to provide products from such processes having novel and improved characteristics. Other objects will be in part obviousand in part pointed out hereinafter.
The invention comprises the novel products as well as the novel processes and steps of processes according to which such products are manufactured, the specific embodiments of which are described hereinafter by way of examples and in accordance with which we now prefer to practice the invention.
Definitions I expressions as herein used,.we mean vegetable yarns having all or a suflicient amount of their natural incrustations adhering to the fibers so astorend'er said" fibers relatively insensitive to swelling agents, although the yarns may-have been given mild cleansing or other treatments I i which do not materially remove their naturalim cru'stations.
By the term mamas:s eater used, we meanflyarns which as woven are not-substantially sens1tive to the. swelling agents applied to the fabrics containing such yarns.
' The following relates to theproductioneof crepe-like effects and translucent pattern efiects and nte mediate materials used therein employ- Germany February 15,
ing scoured yarns and yarns containing natural incrustations.
1. TREATED YARNS COMBINED WITH RAW-INCKUSTED YARNS (a) Producing crepe-like effects by shrinkage In order to produce crepe-like effects (Crepon) in loose condition, it has already been suggested to weave together mercerized and unmercerized cotton yarn and to treat such fabric with mercerizing liquor without tension. Thereby the unmercerized yarn shrinks while the mercerized yarn remains unshortened so that undulated extensions and depressions are formed on the fabric. This old process produces very unsatisfactory results. These unsatisfactory results occur because the mercerized yarns are affected also by a second treatment with mercerizing lye.
In accordance with one aspect of the present invention it has now been found that improved effects can be obtained by the use of starting fabrics containing opened-up yarns and raw yarns of vegetable fibers to which the natural incrustations still adhere. Swelling agents having a shrinking efiect known to the textile finisher are then caused to act on such fabric in accordance with the present invention so that the yarn previously treated contracts while the crude yarn remains substantially uncontracted. If a very pronounced crepelike effect is to be obtained, it is preferable to use alkali lyes of mercerizing strength. In this way there is produced a crepelike effect which may take the most varied forms depending on the distribution in the fabric of the raw eifect-yarns, that is, the yarns which according to this part of our invention are present initially in the fabric as raw yarn containing the natural incrustations. For example, the raw yarn may be woven to' form stripes, diamonds, etc. Also other fabrics can be finished in the same manner, for-instance knitted goods, hosiery goods,
printed goods, etc. which consist of previously treated and -raw vegetable yarns containing incrustations may be employed.
After shrinking the fabric can be further treated in any desired manner, namely by bleaching, dyeing,-flnishing or the like. In dyeing, tone in' tone" effects can be obtained since the previously treated opened-up fiber has the property ofv consuming more. dye than the raw fiberx The expressionftone intone is intended to indicate" the effect gi en by such a combination .of dyed fibers possessing different shades of color.
' if this. process is comslned with the usual reserve printing process, peculiar and manifv'd effects can be obtained. For example the fabric prepared in accordance with the invention from previously treated and raw incrusted cotton yarn is printed locally with a gum reserve (Gummi Reserve) and after drying, is mercerized in loose condition. The yarn protected by the reserve remains unchanged so that these parts stand out as pattern effects.
The process is preferably employed with cotton containing fabrics, but the other natural vegetable fiber products can be used instead of cotton. It is important, however, in selecting for the effect yarns, such natural vegetable fibrous material as contains the natural incrustations. The fabric may contain one kind of fiber alone or there may be an admixture of fibers so long as some of the yarns are relatively insensitive to the swelling agent.
The following examples embody the present aspect of the invention as we now prefer to carry it out, but the invention is not to be restricted thereto except as indicated in the appended claims:
Example 1.-Cotton muslin, the base of which consists of yarn previously scoured and into which effect-yarns of raw cotton containing incrustations are woven in stripes, is impregnated with caustic soda solution of 37 B. at 10 C. for 3 seconds. The material is pressed and set aside at room temperature for three minutes in unstretched condition. Thereupon it is washed hot at about 85 C., acidified and bleached carefully in the usual manner. Finally it is dried in loose condition. The effect produced is shown by the wave-like projections of the effect-threads which impart to the fabric a crepe-like character.
Example 2.Muslin woven from scoured cotton, yarn and also containing as effect yarns individual raw cotton yarns containing incrustations woven into warp and filler in diamond shaped patterns is printed with a gum resist, for example gum arable, locally. After the drying of the resist the fabric is mercerized without tension in accordance with Example 1, washed, whereby also the resist is removed, and finished. The resist parts are set off as patterns from the checkered pattern background.
(b) Producing transparent and translucent effects It is known that stiffened more or less transparent effects can be produced on cellulose-containing fabrics by means of various parchmentizing swelling agents. If this process is'employed on fabrics in which thick yarns have been incorporated in thin fabrics for the purpose of producing a pattern, for example yarns woven in stripes or rectangular form, or if the process is employed on fabrics embroidered in figures forming denser parts of the fabrics, the resulting products obtained by this old process have an ugly appearance. The thick incorporated threads become hard and brittle and bring about an excessive stiffness of the entire surface of the fabric. I I
It has now been found in accordance with this aspect of the present invention that these did!- culties may be avoided if fabrics are prepared which contain on the one hand previously treated yarns. that is "opened" yarns as described above, and on the other hand yarns which are substantially insensitive to swelling agents, namely raw yarns to which natural incrustations still adhere. It has been found that the latter yarns are not influenced by agents for producing the stiffened more or less transparent effects.
' ployed for the transparentizing treatment in conjunction with sulphuric acid treatment. Alternate treatments with caustic soda followed by sulphuric acid of 50.5" B. or over, followed by another treatment with caustic soda of mercerizing strength in the well-known manner may also be employed for producing transparentizing effect on cotton yam which has been "openedup, while the naturally incrusted yarn interwoven therewith remains substantially without change. Other reagents that may be used to give similar translucent effects, as is well-known, are the following agents used alone: sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid, mixed acid (nitric and sulphuric acid), caustic soda solution which has been cooled down to about 10 C., zinc chloride, calcium thiocyanate, ammoniacal copper oxide and others. These reagents are employed under conditions of time, temperature and concentration which are well-known in the art, for example as shown in U. S. Patents 1,265,082 and 1,395,472,
According to the present invention the fabrics which have been treated to produce the translucent or transparent effects can, if desired, be further treated in order to render the original raw yarns containing the natural incrustations susceptible to further treatment. For instance they can be treated to render them more absorptive to dyestuffs. Such raw naturally incrusted yarns can be "opened" up by bleaching or other opening up process described above. After the opening up of these raw yarns so that they then exist in a fabric which has been rendered more transparent or more translucent, the fabric can be treated with a shrinking agent such as caustic soda which will cause these non-transparent yarns to shrink so that a wavy effect will appear on the surface of the fabric of the transparent or translucent fabric.
In addition various effects can be obtained if the swelling agent for producing transparency or translucency is only caused to act locally on the fabrics by direct or resist printing. Pattern effects produced in this manner can be further changed by treating them again subsequently with swelling agents having a shrinking action as for instance caustic soda solution by which crepe-like patterns are obtained.
In addition combinations of simultaneous o successive local action of transparentizing agents (or agents for producing translucency) and shrinking agents can be employed. In connection with this patterns can be printed alongside of each other or on top of each other.
by dyeing and color printing in any conceivable manner. Depending on the dyestuif selected there can be obtained thereby multi-stage shadings of the diflerent colors because of the different action of the dyestuffs on the fibers treated by the transparentizing, shrinking and other swelling agents.
The following are specific examples of embodiments of this aspect of the invention as-we The-effects mentioned can be further enriched now prefer to practice it. The invention is not restricted thereto, however, except as indicated in the appended claims: v
Example 3.-A cotton muslin fabric, the base of which" consists of scoured cotton yarns containing woven stripes of coarse raw cotton yarns, and also effect yarns containing natural incrustations is treated with sulphuric acid of 53 B. at 12 C. for 8 seconds. Thereupon the acid is washed out, the fabric is mercerized with caustic soda solution of 28 B. at 15 C. The fabric is then bleached. The resultant product is a transparent fabric in which appears stripe effects, these stripes being the raw cotton which has not been transparentized due to the protective coating of the incrustations. These stripes remain soft and their presence does not tend to render the fabric more brittle. They give an optical contrast in which because of their non-transparent character, they are set off from the transparent base.
Example 4.A cotton muslin fabric, the base of which consists of scoured cotton yarns and also containing woven stripes of coarse raw cotton yarns, as effect yarns, containingnatural incrustations is treated with a solution of 70 parts of zinc chloride in 30 parts of water at 100 C. during 20 seconds. The fabric is then washed with cold water and finished in a frame. A similar eifect is obtained as described in Example 3. Example 5.A cotton muslin consisting of scoured yarns and raw yarns as efi'ect yarns forming a suitable design is printed with a resist of gum arabic and dried. Then it is treated with sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 10 seconds at 8 C. Then itis washed thoroughly, whereby also the resist is removed, and then bleached and finished. The resist parts stand out as patterns from the transparent background which is traced through by opaque designs due to the raw yarns.
Example 6.-A starting fabric of cotton muslin as described in Example 3 is transparentized in the same way as is pointed out in said example. The fabric is then k er-boiled and bleached and dried in a frame. Afterwards it is treated with caustic soda solution according to Example 1. The raw threads opened up by kier-boiling now shrink whereupon the transparent parts which remain substantially unchanged by the alkali treatment, assume'a wavelike appearance.
2. UNCOATED YARNS COMBINED WITH COATED YARNS (a) Producing crepe-like effects by shrinkage In accordance with this aspect of the present invention it has been found that instead of the vegetable yarns contain ng natural ncrustations, there may be subst tuted yarns which have already been subjected to prior treatment, for instance bleached, mercerzed or dyed yarns. but which prior to manufacture into fabric have been made insensitive or inert to the action ofthe swelling agents. There are suitable for this purpose natural vegetable yarns and artificial yams 3. Impregnating with solutions of waxes and higher melting fats and hydrocarbons, for instance 10% beeswax in benzine; 10% Japan wax in benzine; 8% synthetic wax in benzine; rubber in benzol toluol, chlorinated rubber in toluol, paraflin in benzine and the like.
4. Production of film-like or varnish-like coatings on the yarns by means of varnishes and resin-like substances, for instance cellulose esters, for example 15% nitrocellulose in a1cohol+ethyl acetate, solution of dimethyl urea, acetyl cellulose in acetone, and the like.
The vegetable or animal yarns or rayon yarns which have been made insensitive to swelling agents by any of the above-described methods are now woven with previously treated opened up yarns, that is, with yarns which are affected by swelling agents. Especially favorable results may be obtained with lustrous and dyed yarns which have been made insensitive in the manner indicated above. The completed fabrics are shrunk by means of swelling agents known to the textile finisher including those mentioned above for crepe-like effects under (a). After the washing out of the swelling agent the insensitizing material, depending-on its nature, may either be removed or may remain in the fabric. In the latter case, if their presence for some particular purpose should prove objectionable they may be removed by a special process. In most cases, however, such subsequent treatment is not necessary. The completed fabrics can be improved further by subsequent dyeing if desired. Such dyeing may be performed if desired before the insensitizing materials have been removed.
This process may be combined with the customary resist printing processes, briefly referred to above, to obtain manifold effects.
The following are examples of embodiments of the invention just described. The invention is not limited thereto except as indicated in the appended claims:
Example 7.-A calico fabric, the base of which consists of secured yarns and also containing as effect yarns woven stripes of mercerized cotton yarns which have been impregnated with a solution made up from 15 parts of nitrocellulose, 57 parts of ethyl acetate and 28 parts of spirit is treated with caustic soda solution according to Example 1. Similar effects of those of Example 1 are obtained but the lustre of the mercerised effect threads imparts a good appearance to the finished fabric.
,Example 8.A cotton muslin which contains scoured cotton yarns and as effect yarns, cotton yarns which have been mercerized, dyed and impregnated with a solution of 10% beeswax in benzine, is treated according to Example 1. A special effect is obtained by means of the dyed effect yarns.
(b) Producing transparent and translucent eflects Fabrics containing sensitive uncoated and insensitiaed coated yarns prepared as in 2 (a) above may also be treated with agents to produce areas of transparency or translucency along with some stiffening of the fabric. The swelling agents employed for producing these effects may be the same as those given under the title 1 (b) above. The effects produced by the use of these insensitive yarns are similar to the effects described under 1 (b) above. The following are specific examples of this part of the invention, it being understood that the invention is not restricted thereto, except as indicated in the appended claims:
Example 9.A cotton muslin the base of which consists of scoured yarns and also containing effect yarns made insensitive to the action of parchmentizing agents by impregnation with an emulsion of paraflin (for example Migasol marketed by Gesellschaft fiir chemische Industrie, Basel) is treated with sulfuric acid in the same way as described in Example 3. The effect yarns remain soft and give an optical contrast because of their non-transparent character.
3. RAW YARNS OR SENSITIVE YARNS COMBINED WITH FORMALDEHYDE CELLULosE YARNS Cellulose-containing yarns which have [been suitably treated with formaldehyde show excellent resistance to swelling agents hereinbefore described and therefore may be used as the insensitive yarns. For example regenerated cellulose treated according to the copending application of Frauenfelder, Serial No. 62,994, filed February 8, 1936, is used. Two examples taken from this application are as follows:
A full cotton voile is treated in a jigger for 15 minutes at 50 'C. in a 30% formaldehyde bath to which has been added 0.75% aluminum thiocyanate. After squeezing out the excess liquor the fabric is dried at aboue 120 C. for 20 minutes. The fabric may be exposed to'an air current or left lying around for a period until any odor of formaldehyde disappears. The fabric thus treated upon compression to test crease-resistance is smoothed out again and shows an agreeable soft feel. g
A viscose spun-rayon fabric is treated in a jigger for 15 minutes at 20 C. in a bath containing 20 liter of technical solution of formaldehyde (38%) 400 grams of ammonium chloride and 80 liters of water. Excess liquor is squeezed out, the fabric is dried at 70 C. for about 15 minutes then exposed to a temperature of 120 C. during 20 minutes. Then follows a short treatment with a hot soap bath, containing about 3 grams of soap per liter. After washing out and drying the fabric is remarkably resistant to creasing. Similar yarns may replace the fabrics in the two examples mentioned, taken from said Frauenfelder application, Serial No. 62,994, to produce the desired inactive formaldehyde cellulose yarns herein referred to.
Such insensitive yarns accordingly may be employed with sensitive yarns for the production of crepe-like effects, as well as for the production of fabrics having transparent or translucent areas. The formaldehyde cellulose yarns also possess a certain repelling property towards dyestuffs.
It has further been found that cellulosic yarns treated with formeldehyde as above show an excellent resistance to scouring (boiling with dilute alkalies) and even kier-boiling (boiling with dilute alkalies under pressure). They do not lose their valuable properties of not being affected by the shrinking agents nor by the transparentizing agents referred to in Parts 1 and 2 of the present application. Thus when using these formaldehyde treated yarns there is no need of weaving scoured yarns or yarns otherwise opened up (called active cellulosic fibres in this application) together with the inactive formaldehyde yarns, although such scoured yarns may be used if desired. These formaldehyde cellulose yarns may be woven into a. fabric with the raw vegetable yarns, for instance into a cotton voile or Example 11.
(a) Producing crepe-like efiects by shrinkage The following examples represent embodiments of the process just described. The invention is not limited thereto except as indicated in the appended claims:
Example 11.A raw cotton muslin, the base of which consists of raw cotton yarnsand also containing effect twists of cotton treatedaccording to the example for cotton of said copending application is scoured, bleached and treated with caustic soda lye, according to Example 1. Similar effects are obtained as in Example 1. It is to be understood that no subsequent bleaching occurs in this case, as it was necessary in Example 1 because of the raw effect threads.
Example 12.A muslin web the base of which consists of raw cotton yarns and also containing viscose yarns treated according to the example for viscose of said copending application is scoured, bleached and afterwards treated as described in The effect yarns in this and in the previous example withstand scouring and bleaching without losing their reserving properties. Whereas the raw yarns, opened up by scouring shrink through the action of caustic alkali lye the effect yarns remain substantially unchanged and form wavelike projections all over the web.
Example 13.A muslin such as used in either of the Examples 11 and 12 is scoured bleached, dried and printed with a gum resist, for example gum arabic, locally. Then it is treated according to Example 1 with mercerizing lye without tension, washed, acidified and washed again. If this fabric, which has already assumed a crepe-like character, the resist parts standing out as patterns, is now dyed three shades are obtained. The shrunk parts are dyed strongly, the resist parts somewhat less, the effect threads behaving differently to different (colors) dyes.
The crepe-effects obtained are in general character similar to those secured in connection with the other processes described above.
(b) Producing transparent or translucent e17ects Similarly the formaldehyde cellulose yarns may be combined as inactive cellulose ya'rns with active cotton or other vegetable fibrous material and thereafter treated with swelling agents, as mentioned under 1 (b) above, for producing areas of transparency or translucency. The following examples represent embodiments of the process just described. The invention is not limited thereto except as indicated in the appended claims.
Example 14.--A raw cotton muslin containing effect yarns of cotton treated with formaldehyde according to the example for treatment of cotton taken from said Frauenfelder application given above above-mentioned copending application is kier-boiled bleached and dried in a frame. Afterwards it is exposed to sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 8 seconds at C., washed, mercerized with tension, washed with hot water, acidified,
washed and finished in a frame. Thus the fabric is transparentized except for the effect threads which remain soft and opaque and give an optical contrast.
Example 15.-A raw cotton muslin containing effect threads of viscose artificial silk treated according to example for treatment of viscose taken from said Frauenfelder application given above the copending application mentioned above is scoured, bleached, dried ina frame and printed with a resist of gum arabic. Afterwards it is exposed to sulfuric acid of 54 B. during 8.
seconds at 12 C., thoroughly washed and finished. A peculiar effect is obtained dueto the lustrous viscose threads standing out from the unchanged resist parts as well as from the transparent background.
The products obtained in accordance with the examples just given are in general character similar to those obtained in the examples above where agents for producing transparent or translucent effects are employed.
Depending on the distribution of formaldehyde cellulose threads in the fabric, various patterns can be obtained. If desired direct or resist printing may be employed in conjunction with either the crepe-like effects or transparent or translucent eifects. In addition combinations of both shrinking and transparentizing or rendering more translucent can be employed on the same fabric. By these various steps effects can be produced which heretofore have only been possible by special expensive weaving technique or have been practically impossible to achieve.
The process employing the formaldehyde cellulose yarns is very simple andreliable. Due to the change in the dye-absorbing properties of the formaldehyde cellulose yarns, on dyeing a wide range of color contrast in the fabric is obtained, some of which are different from those obtained by other processes herein described.
The formaldehyde-treated yarns may consist of natural vegetable fibers as for instance cotton, linen. hemp, ramie and the like and also of cellulose-containing artificial fibers such as viscose, rayon, cuprammonium artificial silk, saponified nitro-rayon and artificial staple fibers. As basic substances for the vegetable yarns there may be employed all natural spinning fibers. The fabrics prepared from the yarns may be of any kind, as for. instance woven, braided or knitted fabrics and may contain both kinds of yarn, formaldehyde treated and untreated yarn, in varying proportions. That is, either the natural active fiber may predominate or the formaldehyde cellulose fiber may predominate to give different effects.
In the claims where the expression active fibers is employed, it is intended to mean natural fibers containing cellulose, e. g. cotton, linen, ramie and hemp or other natural cellulosecontaining material which is capable of being shrunk or rendered more transparent or translucent, by any of the agents for such purpose herein described.
The expression inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibers refers to fibers containing cellulose treated with formaldehyde as herein described. The expression "parchmentizing agent as em ployed in the claims refers to sulfuric acid, zinc chloride, or similar agent which acts on active fibers to produce a parchmentizing effect. This effect ordinarily shows translucence or transparence, usually with some stiffening of the fabric. The expression parchmentlzed" is intended to refer to the result of the action of such parchmentizing agent.
Subject matter not herein claimed is claimed in our co-pending application, Serial No. 252,938, filed January 26, 1939.
While the invention has been described in detail according to the preferred manner of carrying out the process, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art after understandingthe invention, that changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention, and it is intended in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications.
What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:
1. A process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with a swelling agent a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which are active to swelling agents, and altering the active fibres under the swelling action to form a visible pattern while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said swelling action.
2. A process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with sulfuric acid of parchmentizing strength, a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which have been treated to remove surface incrustations and render the fibres substantially active to the parchmentizing agent, to parchmentize the active fibres While a the inactive fibres remain substantially unaffected by said agent.
3. A process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating with caustic soda of shrinking strength, a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres woven in a pattern, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres which have been treated to remove surface incrustations, and render the fibres substantially active to the shrinking agent, and shrinking the active fibres under the action of the shrinking agent to produce a creping effect, while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said shrinking agent.
4. A woven fabric containing cellulose yarn and formaldehyde cellulose yarn, the cellulose yarn being crepe-shrunk and theformaldehyde cellulose yarn being substantially unaffected by the shrinking agent, wherebya pattern appears in the fabric.
5. A. woven fabric containing cellulose yarn and formaldehyde cellulose yarn, the cellulose yarn being parchmentized and the formaldehyde cellulose yarn being substantially unaffected by the parchmentizing agent, whereby a pattern appears in the fabric.
6. A process for producing pattern fabrics which comprises treating a fabric containing inactive formaldehyde cellulose fibres and active fibres successively with a swelling parchmentizing agent and with a swelling shrinking agent, the active fibres being natural vegetable fibres active to swelling agents and altering said active fibres by said agents to produce in some fibres shrinking and in others parchmentizing while the inactive fibres are substantially unaltered by said swelling agents.
GEORGES HEBERLEIN. ERNST WEISS.
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE1935H0142761 DE692689C (en) | 1935-02-16 | 1935-02-16 | Process for the production of crepe-like effects on surface structures made of vegetable fibers |
GB964836A GB473069A (en) | 1936-04-01 | 1936-04-01 | Process for the production of patterns on textile fabrics |
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Publication Number | Publication Date |
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US2171513A true US2171513A (en) | 1939-08-29 |
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US63808A Expired - Lifetime US2171513A (en) | 1935-02-16 | 1936-02-13 | Process for treating fabrics and like materials to produce effects therein and products therefrom |
US252938A Expired - Lifetime US2275851A (en) | 1935-02-16 | 1939-01-26 | Process for treating fabrics and like materials to produce effects therein and products therefrom |
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US252938A Expired - Lifetime US2275851A (en) | 1935-02-16 | 1939-01-26 | Process for treating fabrics and like materials to produce effects therein and products therefrom |
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BE (1) | BE416173A (en) |
DE (1) | DE692689C (en) |
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GB (2) | GB453836A (en) |
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Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US2531814A (en) * | 1946-11-20 | 1950-11-28 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Patterned fabrics and processes for producing same |
US2531813A (en) * | 1945-06-12 | 1950-11-28 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Processes for producing transparentized and crinkled cellulosic fabrics |
US2607655A (en) * | 1948-08-03 | 1952-08-19 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Striped, creped cellulose fabrics without moire effect |
US2611678A (en) * | 1941-10-18 | 1952-09-23 | Ginzel Heinz | Transparentizing to obtain patterned cotton textiles employing resists of pigment containing aqueous oleaginous emulsions |
US3498737A (en) * | 1965-04-23 | 1970-03-03 | Us Agriculture | Process of producing sculptured lace from flat lace |
US20050183251A1 (en) * | 2004-02-17 | 2005-08-25 | Jian-Min Lin | Textile with transparent light structure and heat-insulating construction and method of manufacturing the same |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE894387C (en) * | 1938-06-17 | 1953-10-26 | Stockhausen & Cie Chem Fab | Process for producing relief effects on textile surface structures |
DE936087C (en) * | 1944-06-02 | 1955-12-07 | Cilander Ag | Process for the finishing of fabrics |
CN107675485A (en) * | 2017-09-20 | 2018-02-09 | 浙江越新印染有限公司 | A kind of Modal acid fibrillation pre-treating technology |
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0
- NL NL46826D patent/NL46826C/xx active
- BE BE416173D patent/BE416173A/xx unknown
- NL NL50100D patent/NL50100C/xx active
- NL NL46837D patent/NL46837C/xx active
-
1935
- 1935-02-16 DE DE1935H0142761 patent/DE692689C/en not_active Expired
- 1935-03-14 GB GB7943/35A patent/GB453836A/en not_active Expired
-
1936
- 1936-02-13 US US63808A patent/US2171513A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1936-02-14 FR FR803215D patent/FR803215A/en not_active Expired
- 1936-02-24 GB GB5494/36A patent/GB469138A/en not_active Expired
- 1936-06-23 FR FR812065D patent/FR812065A/en not_active Expired
- 1936-12-09 FR FR814729D patent/FR814729A/en not_active Expired
-
1939
- 1939-01-26 US US252938A patent/US2275851A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2611678A (en) * | 1941-10-18 | 1952-09-23 | Ginzel Heinz | Transparentizing to obtain patterned cotton textiles employing resists of pigment containing aqueous oleaginous emulsions |
US2531813A (en) * | 1945-06-12 | 1950-11-28 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Processes for producing transparentized and crinkled cellulosic fabrics |
US2531814A (en) * | 1946-11-20 | 1950-11-28 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Patterned fabrics and processes for producing same |
US2607655A (en) * | 1948-08-03 | 1952-08-19 | Heberlein Patent Corp | Striped, creped cellulose fabrics without moire effect |
US3498737A (en) * | 1965-04-23 | 1970-03-03 | Us Agriculture | Process of producing sculptured lace from flat lace |
US20050183251A1 (en) * | 2004-02-17 | 2005-08-25 | Jian-Min Lin | Textile with transparent light structure and heat-insulating construction and method of manufacturing the same |
US7481251B2 (en) * | 2004-02-17 | 2009-01-27 | China Textile Institute | Textile with transparent light structure and heat-insulating construction and method of manufacturing the same |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
NL46826C (en) | |
GB453836A (en) | 1936-09-14 |
FR812065A (en) | 1937-05-29 |
FR803215A (en) | 1936-09-25 |
BE416173A (en) | |
US2275851A (en) | 1942-03-10 |
FR814729A (en) | 1937-06-28 |
DE692689C (en) | 1940-06-25 |
GB469138A (en) | 1937-07-20 |
NL46837C (en) | |
NL50100C (en) |
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