US2531814A

US2531814A - Patterned fabrics and processes for producing same

Info

Publication number: US2531814A
Application number: US711206A
Authority: US
Inventors: Jr Georg Heberlein; Weiss Ernst
Original assignee: Heberlein Patent Corp
Current assignee: Heberlein Patent Corp
Priority date: 1946-11-20
Filing date: 1946-11-20
Publication date: 1950-11-28
Anticipated expiration: 1967-11-28

Description

i atented Nov. 28,

PATTERNED FABRICS AND PROCESSES FOR PRODUCING SAME Georges Heberlein, deceased, late of Wattwil, Switzerland, by Georg Heberlein, Jr., legal heir and administrator, Wattwil, Wanne, Switzerland, and Ernst Weiss, Wattwil, Switzerland, assignors to Heberlein Patent Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York N Drawing.

Application November 20, 1946,

Serial No. 711,206

6 Claims. 1

,This invention pertains to cellulosic fabrics, for example, cotton fabrics, embodying permanent and wash-resistant, fancy pattern effects, consisting of a combination of locally parchmentized and locally shrunk pattern areas, together with opaque, pigmented patterns, which may appear in Whole or in part in either the parchmentized or shrunk pattern areas or in otherwise untreated portions of the fabric. In addition desired pattern areas of the fabric may be left plain, i. e., neither parchmentized, shrunk nor pigmented.

The invention pertains to the patterned fabrics aforesaid, as well as to various novel methods for producing the same, as described hereinafter.

This application is a, continuation-in-part of applications Ser. No. 370,155, filed December 14, 1940, now patent 2,382,416, Ser. No. 187,927, filed January 26, 1938, now abandoned and Ser. No. 599,114, filed June 12, 1945.

In accordance with the basic concept of the processes above referred to, certain fabric areas according to adesired pattern, are given a parchmentizing or transparentizing treatment and thus rendered more sheer than the original or starting material so treated, while other areas are locally shrunk and hence rendered more compact in appearance and of denser weave than the original material, in addition to which the fabric embodies opaque, locally pigmented areas, in which the pigment is made fast to the fabric and rendered wash-resistant by fixation with a water-insoluble resist or reserve, such as nitroor other ester derivatives of cellulose, lacquer, chlorinated rubber, or the like.

In accordance with an important and novel feature of the invention, these pigmented patterns may, as above stated, be embodied in whole or in part in either the parchmentized areas or in the shrunk areas or in otherwise untreated portions of the starting material, which is ordinarily plain, mercerized cotton fabric. That is to say, the pigmented areas may of themselves be parchmentized in whole or in part, or may be shrunk in Whole or in part, or may be neither parchmentized nor shrunk even though contiguous to or entirely surrounded by parchmentizedv or shrunk areas.

These results are brought about by the various methods described below for obtaining specific pattern effects desired, in conjunction with the use of pigment reserves which are permeable only to parchmentizing agents, or permeable only to shrinkage agents, or permeable to either or to neither, depending on the particular effects desired in any given instance.

In this connection we have discovered, for example, that albuminous and casein reserves for the pigment, are substantially impermeable to, i. e., resistant against the action of parchmentizing agents, such as sulfuric acid, but on the other hand are quite permeable to shrinkage agents, such as caustic soda. Likewise, nitrocellulose pigment reserves can be made relatively impermeable to parchmentizing agents, but are noticeably affected by shrinkage agents. On the other hand, chlorinated rubber reserves are impermeable both to parchmentizing and shrinkage agents; while acetyl-cellulose reserves are appreciably affected by both parchmentizing and shrinkage agents. Various other wash-resistant and water-insoluble reserves might be mentioned as falling within one or the other of the above categories, but those mentioned will sulfice to illustrate the selective actions that may be obtained as between the pigment reserves on the one hand and the parchmentizing and shrink.- age agents on the other.

The processes employed for obtaining pattern effects as above noted will vary somewhat in accordance with the specific pattern effects desired, and may be illustrated by the following:

Process (1).--A roll of plain mercerized cotton fabric is fed progressively through a first print roll for printing a water-insoluble and wash-resistant pigment reserve onto the fabric in a desired pattern, the fabric being fed thence, in the same printing operation, through a second print roll for applying a, second pattern of a water-soluble reserve of gum, vegetable mucilage, or the like, in a desiredregistered or non-registered relation to the pigment reserve pattern. A gum reserve consisting, for example, of equal parts by weight of water and gum arabic, is impermeable both to parchmentizing agents, such as sulfuric acid, and alsoto shrinkage agents, such as caustic soda. The entire fabric so printed is then subjected to a parchmentizing treatment in a bath of sulfuric acid, thereby to parchmentize the exposed or unprinted areas. The fabric is thereupon washed to remove the gum reserve, and the entire fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath, such as caustic soda, whereby the areas formerly protected by the gum reserve are shrunk. The shrinkage agent does not shrink the transparentized areas, but merely enhances their Sheerness. The effect of the parchmentizing and shrinkage treatments on the pigmented areas is discussed below.

The finished fabric is thereby ornamented with pattern areas which are parchmentized, other pattern areas which are shrunk, and pattern areas containing the wash-resistant pigment reserve. The pigmented areas may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized or shrunkareas or in fabric areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk, depending on the predetermined pattern desired and on the pigment re serves employed, i. e., whether they are, permeable to acid, or only to alkali, or to neither.

It is to be noted in connection with the above process, that there are two ways of preventing the pigment printed areas from being affected by the parchmentizing treatment. ploy a pigment reserve, such as nitrocellulose, which is impermeable to the acid but permeable to caustic; the other is to overprint the pigment reserve with a water-soluble gum reserve, in which event the gum reserve protects the pigment reserve during the parelimentizing treat ment, after which the gum reserve is removed by washing. In this case a pigment reserve is employed which is permeable to caustic if it is desired to s-h" nk these areas; or with a pigment reserve impermeable to caustic if it is desired to have these areas unsh'runk.

Specific examples illustrative of the above process are the following:

. Ercmtple I 230 grams titanium white 45 do acetyl cellulose 370 do ethylene ohlorhydrin 355 do water In the same machine, the fabric is then fed through a second print roll which prints in registry with the pigment pattern, a different pattern with a water-soluble or gum resist imperviou's to parchmenti'zing treatment as aforesaid, namely, a resist consisting of vegetable mucilage or of equal parts by weight of water and gum arabic. After drying, the fabric is passed through a 'parchmentizing or trans- .1

parentizing bath of sulfuric acid of 54 B. for 3 seconds at 15 (2., whereupon it is immediately washed to remove the acid and gum reserve, and dried. Thereupon the fabric is given a shrinkage treatment with a caustic soda solution of mercerizing strength, for instance 38 Be, on steeping for instance during 10 seconds without tension. The material is then pressed out, left to itself for several minutes and allowed to shrink, and is then rinsed hot. After the usual acidifying to neutralize the alkali, followed by water rinsmg, the fabri is dried under the least possible tension,

As a result of the above treatments the pattern areas initially exposed to the parchmentizing' agent, i. e., the areas initially unprotected by the gum reserve, are parchmentized; while the areas initially protectedby the gum reserve, are shrunk, due to removal of this reserve prior to shrinkage treatment.

Since the acetyl cellulose pigment reserve is permeable both to parchmentizin'g and shrinkage agents, the effect of the above treatments on the pigmented areas will depend on the extent to which the gum printed areas overlap the pig'- One is to em: 3

removal of the gum reserve.

ment printed areas. If the gum resist wholly overlaps the pigment printed areas, these areas will be protected against the parchmentizing treatment and hence will be shrunk, due to subsequent exposure to the shrinkage, treatment on Conversely, if the gum printed areas do not encroach upon the pigment printed areas, these areas will be parchmentized due to exposure to the parchmentizing treatment. Finally if the gum printed. areas only partially overlap, the pigment printed areas, the initially exposed portions will be parchmentized and the remaining portions subsequently shrunk.

The pigmented areas which are parchmentized are merely stiffened, but remain opaque due to the, presence of the pigment. The remaining parchmentized areas are, however, transparentized, and the subsequent shrinkage treatment prbduces no shrinkage of these portions but merely imparts a different or more enhanced Sheerness thereto. On the. other hand the shrinkage treatment shrinks and thus increases the density of weave of the unparchmenti-zed areas, the two effects above noted thus enhancing the optical contrast between the transparentized and shrunk portions.

Also the shrinkage of the unparchmentized areas produces undulations or puckered effects in the fabric due to the shrinkage. of these areas in contrast to the non-shrinkage of the parchmentized areas.

Example If 50 grams chlorinated rubber 175 do 'toluol 30 do American pine oil 80 do titanium white and in registry therewith, in the same printing operation, is printed with a sum reserve as aforesaid. Thcreupon the fabric is subjected to the above mentioned parchmehtizing treatment, washed and dried, and subjected to shrinkage treatment as aforesaid.

Since the chlorinated rubber resist is impermeable both to parchmentizing and shrink-' age agents, the pigment reserved areas are neither parchmentized nor shrunk; The gum printed, non-pigmented areas are shrunk, while the non-pigmented initially exposed areas are transparentized.

Process (2).-The ornamental effects above discussed may be obtained by an alternative pro-' cedure of directly printing the fabric with a pigment resist and with a parchmentizing paste, rather than by printing with a water-soluble gum reserve followed by treatment in a parchmentizing bath. In accordance with this alternative, the original fabric is fed through successive print rolls, the first. ofwhich. applies the wash-resistant pigment reserve in a desired pat-- tern, which is dried on the. way tothe second print roll; while the seconde rinl roll applies the parchmentizin-g paste (such as z inc chloride or calcium thiocyanate solutionthickened with cellulose) in a desired relation to. the p mented pattern. After drying and. heating. to develop the parchmentized pattern, and washing, the fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath.

Here again the fabric will contain locally parchmentized pattern areas, locally shrunk areas, and Wash resistant pigmented areas, which may appear in whole or in part in the parchmentized areas, in the shrunk areas, depending on the relative pattern arrangement and on the type of reserve employed for the pigment.

A specific example of this procedure is the following:

Example III The fabric is pattern printed on a first print roll with an acetyl cellulose pigment resist as in Example I, and dried on the way to a second print roll where it is printed in a different pattern with a parchmentizing paste consisting of:

69.5 grams zinc chloride 30.5 do water 1.8 do viscose or with a parchmentizing paste consisting of:

710 grams crystallized calcium thiocyanate 106 grams water 22 do viscose waste be borne in mind that the pigment reserved areas may be wholly or only partially parchmentized or completely unparchmentized; or wholly or only partially shrunk, depending on the extent to which the pigment reserve is overprinted with the parchmentizing paste.

Substitution of a chlorinated rubber for the acetyl-cellulose pigment reserve would result in pigmented areas which are neither parchmen ized nor shrunk, against a background of locally transparentized and locally shrunk pattern areas. Substitution of a nitrocellulose reserve would result in the pigmented areas being substantially unaffected by the parohmentizing paste in the event of overlapping, whereby the pigmented areas will be wholly shrunk in the subsequent shrinkage treatment. Process (3).According to another important modification of the invention, the original fabric may be fed successively through a pair of print rolls, one of which applies a wash-resistant pigment reserve in a desired pattern, and the other of which appli s a gum reserve. The entire fabric is thereupon subjected to a parchmentizing treatment in an acid bath, and washed to remove the gum reserve. Thereupon the entire fabric is again printed with a gum reserve, but in a different pattern from the original gum reserve, for example in stripes, and the entire fabric so printed, subjected to shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath, and then washed out to remove the second gum reserve.

The resulting fabric will contain parchmentized pattern areas, locally shrunk pattern areas, and fabric areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk, together with areas embodying the wash-resistant pigment, which may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized, shrunk or otherwise untreated fabric areas, depending on the pigment reserve employed, and on the relative arrangement of the pigment and gum reserves.

If, for example, a pigment reserve, such as chlorinated rubber, is used which is impermeable to both parchmentizing and shrinkage treatments, the pigment will appear in fabric areas which are neither parchmentized nor shrunk. If, on the other hand, the pigment reserve used is impermeable to acid but permeable to alkali, such as nitrocellulose, the pigmented areas will not be parchmentized, but will be locally shrunk in part and locally unshrunk in part, owing to partial protection from the shrinkage treatment by the second gum printing. This same result is also obtained if a pigment reserve is used which is permeable to both parchmentizing and shrinkage, such as acetyl cellulose, but the pigment reserve is overprinted by the first gum reserve and hence protected from the parchmentizing treatment.

Emample IV A mercerized mousseline fabric is pattern printed on a first print roll with a pigment reserve consisting of 180 grams nitrocellulose (including 35 butanol) 450 do amylacetate do ethylacetate 20 do ethyl alcohol 200 do colored titanium white (T102) and, in the same machine, on successive print rolls, is printed with one or more gum reserves which may contain different colored dyestuffs. After drying, the fabric is passed through transparentizing sulfuric acid of 54 Be. for 8 seconds at 15 C. whereupon it is immediately washed to remove the gum reserve, and dried. Then the fabric is again printed with a gum resist in a different pattern, for example in spaced stripes, and is given a shrinkage treatment with a caustic soda solution of mercerizing strength, for instance 38 B. on steeping for example during 10 seconds without tension. Then the material is pressed out, is left to itself for several minutes and allowed to shrink, and is rinsed hot. After the usual acidifying and rinsing, the fabric is dried under the least possible tension.

Since the nitrocellulose pigment reserve employed is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, neither the pigment reserved areas nor the initially gum printed areas are affected by the parchmentizing agent, so that only the exposed, untreated areas are parchmentized, i. e. transparentized. On subsequent removal of the initial gum reserves followed by the second gum reserve printing in spaced strips and overall treatment with the shrinkage agent, the exposed portions of the theretofore untreated areas, are shrunk, as are also the exposed portions of the pigmented areas, since the nitrocellulose reserve is permeable to caustic. Also the exposed portions of the transparentized areas are rendered more sheer. Thus on washing to remove the final gum reserve, the fabric will be found to embody transparentized patterns embodying alternating areas of greater and lesser sheerness, respectivelythe so-called shadoripple effect-against a background of pigmented and unpigmented pattern areas embodying alternately shrunk and unshrunk portions. Owing to the localized shrinkage in the background areas together with the absence of shrinkage in the parchmentized areas, the fabric assumes an overall crinkly or puckered eflect. Aim if dyes are employed in the initial gum reserves, the areas printed therewith will be correspondingly dyed.

If in the above example a chlorinated rubber pigment reserve like Example II--impermeable both to parchmenti'zing and shrinkage treatment-had been employed, the pigment reserved areas would remain wholly unparchmentized and unshrunk, and would appear against a background of transparentized pattern areas containing the shado-ripple effect. and other pattern areas consisting of alternating shrunk and untreated regions.

Again if an acetyl cellulose pigment reserve like Example I, permeable both to parchmentiaing and shrinkage agents, were employed, the initially exposed pigmented areas would be parch mentized and stiffened, while the remaining portions would be alternately shrunk and unshrunk.

Process (4).Ornamental effects similar to those just described, may be obtained by various modifications of Process (3). Thus in place of the initial gum printing followed by overall treat ment' of the fabric in a sulfuric acid bath, to parchmentize selected areas, there may be substituted the single step of directly printing these areas with a parchmentizing paste, as in Example III. Likewise, instead of the final gum printing followed by overall treatment in caustic soda solution to shrink selected areas, there may be substituted the single step of directly printing these areas with a, suitable printing paste containing a shrinkage agent, such as a strong caustic soda solution thickened with Brit ish gum.

Er'ampleV A mercerized mousseline fabric is pattern printed with a pigment resist consisting, for example of:

180 grams nitrocellulose (including35% butanol) 450 do amylacetate 1.50 do ethylacetate 20 do ethyl alcohol 200 do titanium dioxide and in a different pattern, with a par'c'hrnehtizifig paste consisting of:

69 grams zinc chloride 29" do water 2 do viscose rayon The fabric is-thendried at 80 to 100 C. for about minutes to develop the parchmentizin effect, thereafter washed and again dried, preferably on a tenter frame. In a second printing operation the fabric isprinted for example in spaced stripes, with caustic soda solution of about 35 Be, thick-- ened with British gum. After printing thefabric is allowed to lie,. without tension for 5 to 19 minutes and so allowed to shrink. Thereafter-it is washed with warm water, acidified to neutralize any residual caustic, thoroughly rinsed and dried under the least possible tension.

The resulting fabric shows parchment-med and pigmentized pattern areas against a background of alternately shrunkandunshrunk, i. e. unchanged, areas The pigmentizedpattern areas may appear in whole or in part in either the parchmentized or the alternately shrunk and unshr-unle fabric areas, depending on the relativearrangement of the pattern areas printed with the pigment resist and the parchmentizing paste.

solution for effecting localized shrinkage.

Ercmple VI A mercerized mousseline fabric is pattern printed in registered relation with a pigment reserve as in Example I and a parchmentizing paste as in Example III, dried, heated at about to C. washed and dried under tension. Then the fabric is printed in a different pattern, for example in spaced stripes, with a water soluble gum reserve, dried, impregnated with caustic soda solution of 38 B., allowed to shrink for about 5 minutes, washed with hot water, and after the usual acidifying and rinsing dried under the least possible tension.

In consequence of this treatment the fabric will comprise transparented, pigmented and shrunk areas as well as areas which are unaltered. The pigmented attern areas may be wholly or partially surrounded by either parchmentized 0r alternately shrunk and unshrunk fabric areas.

It is to be understood of course that either or both of the above mentioned equivalent procedures may be substituted for the gum printing and bath treatment procedures of Process (3), without departing from the spirit of this inven tion. For example, parchmentizing may be effected by gum printing and subsequent overall treatment in sulfuric acid, while the localized shrinkage may be thereafter affected by direct printing of a shrinkage paste. Alternatively, parchmentizing may be obtained by direct printing of a parchmentizing paste, followed by gum printing and overall treatment in caustic soda or both of the above one-step procedures may be substituted for the equivalent two-step rose: dures of Process (3) for parchmentiaing desired pattern areas and for shrinking other pattern areas.

It may be stated quite generally with respect to the processes above described, that where relatively large pattern areas are to be parchmentiz'e'd' or shrunk, better and more economical re sults are obtained by the above mentioned twostep procedures of gum printingto reserve desired areas followed by overall treatment of the fabric in a parchmentizing or shrinkage bath, as the case ma be. On the other hand where only small areas are to be parchmentized or shrunk, this is best accomplished by direct printing of a, parchmentizing or shrinkage paste onto the fabric.

Accordingly in the processes described thus far wherea parchmentizing bath is employed for reasons above stated, two resists have been applied to the fabric prior to parchmentizing, one being the water-insoluble pigment resist and the other the water-soluble gum resist, the latter to reserve areas for subsequent incorporation of localized shrinkage effects as above noted.

Where it is desired, however, to incorporate such localized shrinkage effects only in the pigment printed areas, the step of pattern printing with a gum resist prior to parchmentizing may be dispensed with provided a' pigment resist is employed which is impermeable to parchment-i2- ing but permeable to shrinkage. agents; As above stated nitro-cellulose is a resist of this character, and where it is employed under the conditions just describedyonly one resist, namely, the pigment resist need be printed onthe fabric prior to parchmentizingr Much more pleasing effects are obtained, however,- by initially pattern'printing the fabric with two or more such pigment resists in different colors.

Process .In accordance with the above, the fabric is initially pattern printed with at least one and preferably with two or more pigment resists in different colors, the resists being impermeable to acid but permeable to shrinkage agents, for example, the nitrocellulose resist of Example IV. Thereupon the fabric is subjected to overall treatment in a parchmentizing bath of sulfuric acid as in Example IV, to transparentize the non-pigmented areas. After washing and drying the fabric is printed with a water-soluble gum reserve, for example, in stripes, and is thereupon subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in a bath of caustic soda, as in Example IV, and further treated as set forth therein to effect shrinkage of the exposed areas.

In consequence of this treatment the fabric will comprise pigmented pattern areas against a transparentized background. The pigmented areas will embody alternating shrunk and unshrunk portions, and the localized shrinkage effected therein in contrast to the non-shrinkage of the parchmentized areas, will produce an overall crinkly or puckered effect in the fabric.

Example VII A mercerized cotton fabric is printed with one or more pigment resists, substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents, but permeable to shrinkage agents, and consisting,v for example, of:

180 grams nitrocellulose (including 35% butanol) 450 do amylacetate 150 do ethylacetate 20 do ethyl alcohol 200 do colored titanium white (TiOz) After drying, the fabric is passed through a parchmentizing bath of sulfuric acid of a strength 54 B. for 8 seconds, at 0., whereupon it is immediately washed. to remove the acid, and dried. The exposed pigmented areas are not affected by this treatment, since the nitrocellulose pigment reserve is not permeable to the acid parchmentizing bath. On the other hand, the exposed, non-pigmented fabric areas, are transparentized.

The fabric is then printed in a different pattern, for example in stripes, with a water-soluble, gum reserve, and subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in a bath of caustic soda solution, of mercerizing strength, for instance 38 Be. and there after subjected to finishing treatment as in Example I. i

In consequence of this treatment, the exposed portions of the transparentized areas, are rendered more sheer than the gum printed areas, giving the above-mentioned Shado-Ripple effect. The remaining exposed portions of the fabric, i. e., the pigmented portions, are shrunk; while the gum printed portions remain unshrunk, to give unshrunk pigmented portions.

In addition to the above effects, the fabric also embodies overall undulatory or crinkled effects, owing to the localized shrinkage of the areas above described.

Instead of the final gum printing and overall treatment in the bath of caustic soda for effecting the above mentioned localized shrinkage, there may be substituted the single step of pat-. tern printing the fabric with a printing paste containing a shrinkage agent, as illustrated, for instance, in Examples V and VI.

, Process (6).Process (5) may be reversed by first pattern printing the fabric with only a water-soluble or gum resist, followed by overall parchmentizing treatment in an acid bath and washing to remove the gum reserve. 'I'hereupon the fabric is printed in a different pattern with the wash-resistant, pigment resist, and the fabric then subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in an alkali bath. A pigment resist may be employed which is permeable to shrinkage treatment, or one which is impermeable to shrinkage treatment, depending upon whether or not it is desirable to have the shrinkage effects appear in the pigmented areas. Also instead of the initial gum reserve followed by overall treatment in a parchmentizing bath, the fabric may be initially printed with a parchmentizing paste and thereafter printed with a pigment resist and optionally aiso with a gum resist. The following examples are illustrative:

Example VIII A mercerized mousseline fabric is printed according to a desired pattern, with a water-soluble resist consisting of equal parts by weight of gum 'posed fabric areas, i. e., those unprotected by.

the gum reserve, are transparentized; while the gum printed areas retain the mercerized finish of the original fabric.

The fabric is now printed according to a different pattern with a water-insoluble and washresistant pigment reserve impermeable to shrinkage agents, and consisting of:

50 grams chlorinated rubber 175 do toluol 25 do American pine oil do titanium white Thereupon the fabric is subjected to overall shrinkage treatment in a bath of caustic soda of a strength 38 B. on steeping for about 10 seconds without tension, and subjected to finishing treatment as in Example I.

As a result of this treatment the non-pigmented and non-transparentized areas will be shrunk, and thus assume a denser weave and more compact appearance than the surrounding areas; while the transparentized areas will be rendered more sheer. The pigment reserved areas will not be shrunk, but may be so printed as to overlie the transparentized areas in greater or lesser degree, as desired, and to this extent the transparentized areas will be pigmented and opaque.

If, in the above example, the acetyl cellulose.

pigment reserve of'Example I had been employed,

the pigment reserved areas would have been shrunk to the extent that they did not overlie the transparentized areas.

As a result of the localized shrinkage, the fabric will also embody overall crinkled and cockled effects.

Ewample IX A pattern is applied to a mercerized mousseline fabric by printing the same, at room temperaturer with a parchmentizing paste as follows:

69.5 grams zinc chloride 30.5 do water e. vi a Thereupon the fabric is dried and heated at about 95 to 100 C. to develop the parchmentizing effect, washed and again dried. The fabric is then printed in registry, on successive print rolls, with a chlorinated rubber, pigment resist as in Example VIII and also with a water-soluble gum resist, and it is thereupon subjected to overall shrinkage treatment and otherwise finished as in Example VIII.

The areas printed with the parchmentizing paste will be transparentized. The pigment printed areas will not be shrunk, but may overlap and thus pigment the transparentized areas. The otherwise untreated areas which were not protected by the gum reserve, will be shrunk; while the portions thereof which were protected by the gum reserve, will retain the mercerized finish of the original fabric.

If the acetyl cellulose pigment reserve of Example I had been employed, the localized shrinkage effects could be arranged to appear also in the pigment printed areas, for example by partial overprinting with the gum reserve.

In the appended claims where reference is made to pattern-printing a fabric with a pigment reserve in spaced relation, is meant that the pigmented and parchmentized areas do not overlap Also, where reference is made to pattern-printing pigment-reserved areas and parchmentized areas in registry, is meant that the pigmented patterns are definitely and precisely located with reference to the parchmentized areas, such, for example, as parchmentized dots at the centers of pigment-reserved circles, rather than randomly disposed with respect thereto,

By resist or "reserve as employed in the specification and claims is meant a substance which bonds the pigment to the fabric, and which may also reserve the fabric areas so treated, against the action of either parchmentizing or shrinkage agents or both.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics,-which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with a pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to fix the pigment and develop the parchmentizing effect, thereby to produce permanent, pigmented and parchmentized pattern areas, and thereafter subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of the pigment-printed areas, to treatment with a shrinkage agent, without tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, a different sheerness in previously parchmentized but unpigmented fabric portions and shrinkage in previously untreated fabric portions as well as in pigmented but unparchmentized fabric portions.

2. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric in at least partially overlapping relation with a pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to fix the pigment and develop the parchmentizing effect, thereby to produce permanent, pigmented and parchmentized pattern effects, and subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions 12 of said pigmented pattern areas, to treatment with a shrinkage agent Without tension, thereby'to' impart to the areas so treated, a different sheerness in parchmentized but unpigmented fabric portions, and shrinkage in pigmented but unparchmentized and in previously untreated fabric portions.

3. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with a parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to develop the parchmentizing effect, and thereupon pattern printing the fabric, in registered relation, with a pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a water-soluble reserve which is substantially impermeable to shrinkage agents, and subjecting the fabric to shrinkage treatment without tension, thereby to impart to the fabric areas unprotected by said water-soluble reserve, a different sheerness in parchmentized but unpigmented portions and shrinkage in previously untreated fabric portions and also in pigmented but unparchmentized fabric portions.

4. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern efiects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric in at least partially overlapping relation with a pigment-containing, Wash-resistant, water-insoluble, nitrocellulosic reserve which is substantially impermeable to parchmentizing agents but permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a .parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to fix the pigment and. develop the parchmentizing effeet, thereby to produce permanent, pigmented and parchmentized pattern areas, at least portions of which are contiguously disposed, thereafter subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of said pigmented pattern areas, to treatment with a shrinkage agent without tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, a different sheerness in parchmentized but unpigmented fabric portions, and shrinkage in pigmented but unparchmentized and in pre-- viously untreated fabric portions.

5. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics,

, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric with a pigment-containing, wash-resistant, waterinsoluble reserve which is permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to fix the pigment and develop the parchmentizing effect, thereby to produce permanent, pigmented and parchmentized pattern areas, and thereupon subjecting the fabric to overall shrinkage treatment without tension to shrink the unparchmentized fabric areas and to impart a different sheerness to the previously parchmentized but unpigmented pattern areas.

6. A process for producing permanent and wash-resistant pattern effects in cellulosic fabrics, which comprises: pattern printing the fabric in spaced, registered relation, with a pigment-containing, wash-resistant, water-insoluble reserve which is permeable to shrinkage agents, and with a parchmentizing agent, drying and heating to fix the pigment and develop the parchmentizing effect, thereby to produce spaced, pigmented and parchmentized pattern areas, and thereafter subjecting at least portions of the fabric, including at least portions of the pigmented areas, to treatment with a shrinkage agent without tension, thereby to impart to the areas so treated, a dif- 13 and shrinkage in pigmented and in previously untreated fabric portions. 1

GEORG HEBERLEIN, JR. Legal Heir and Administrator of the Estate of Georges Heberlez'n, Deceased.

ERNST WEISS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record inthe file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,482,076 Fourneaux Jan. 29, 1924 2,075,695 Bodmer Mar. 30, 1937 2,085,946 Bodmer et a1 July 6,1937

Number Number 15 227,480 492,573

Name Date Huey et 'al July 13, 1937 Goencz et a1 Nov. 9, 1937 Weiss Nov. 23, 1937 Huey et a1. Jan. 11, 1938 Heberlein et a1 Apr. 5, 1938 Heberlein June 21, 1938 Heberlein et a1. Aug. 29, 1939 Hefti May 14, 1940 Heberlein Mar. 4, 1941 Heberlein etal. Aug. 14, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain Jan. 19, 1925 Great Britain Sept. 22, 1938

Claims

1. A PROCESS FOR PRODUCING PERMANENT AND WASH-RESISTANT PATTERN EFFECTS IN CELLULOSIC FABRICS, WHICH COMPRISES: PATTERN PRINTING THE FABRIC WITH A PIGMENT-CONTAINING, WASH-RESISTANT, WATER-INSOLUBLE RESERVE WHICH IS PERMEABLE TO SHRINKAGE AGENTS, AND WITH A PARCHMENTIZING AGENT, DRYING AND HEATING TO FIX THE PIGMENT AND DEVELOP THE PARCHMENTIZING EFFECT, THEREBY TO PRODUCE PERMANENT, PIGMENTED AND PARCHMENTIZED PATTERN AREAS, AND THEREAFTER SUBJECTING AT LEAST PORTIONS OF THE FABRIC, INCLUDING AT LEAST PORTIONS OF THE PIGMENT-PRINTED AREAS, TO TREATMENT WITH A SHRINKAGE AGENT, WITHOUT TENSION, THEREBY TO IMPART TO THE AREAS SO TREATED, A DIFFERENT SHEERNESS IN PREVIOUSLY PARCHMENTIZED BUT UNPIGMENTED FABRIC PORTIONS AND SHRINKAGE IN PREVIOUSLY UNTREATED FABRIC PORTIONS AS WELL AS IN PIGMENTED BUT UNPARCHMENTIZED FABRIC PORTIONS.