US2121755A - Process for making patterned effects on crepe fabrics and products therefrom - Google Patents

Description

Patented June 21, 1938 PROCESS FOR MAKING PATTERNED EF- FECTS N CREPE FABRICS AND PROD- UCTS THEREFROM George Heberlein, Jun., Wattwil, Switzerland,

The C p fabric referred to in a C DBHd has a preliminary crepe effect. is stretched to pp cat on s usually made by weaving yarns. the original grey width and then treated with all or a part of which are highly twisted. and the binding material and then finally creped. e su j these yarns o hot soap, caustic Because of the different dyeing properties of the solution or other bath to produce the well-known portions treated with the reserve or binder as curly or crimped effect characteristic of crepe. compared with the untreated portions, various The pr n ip l object f he present v dyed color effects can be obtained. In addition ion is o pr vi e a pr s fo producing m r dyestuffs can be added to th binder before printpatterned effects on crepe fabric in a different ing, on th othe hand, where a, dyed fabric manner. is to be treated, a discharge may be added to The vent n p s s t novel p d as the binder to be printed thereon. Besides yarns well as the n v l pr ses a steps f processes of vegetable fiber such as cotton and linen, the according t which Such Products are manufacvarious artificial silks of regenerated cellulose tured, the specific embodiments of which are deand animal fibers, for instance highly twisted scribed hereinafter by way of example and in fine wool and silk yarns, may be subjected to accordance with which we now prefer to practhe process.

tice the invention. The following are examples of the process em- It has now been found in accordance with the ploying th steps in the manner in which it is present inVentiOn that patterned effects 0 C epe now preferred to practice the invention. These fa r s can be DIOdUCBd y treating C p fa examples are purely illustrative and are not to be ric at some time prior to its final shrinkage with construed i 1im1t1 en a binder to produce a pattern design capable of Exam le 1 resisting the subsequent wet treatment to which p such fabrics are subjected, such as creping and A georgette fabric of viscose silk containing bleaching baths. Then upon subjecting the fabhighly twisted threads as it comes from the loom 40 ric to a creping treatment, the portions of the ready to be subjected to treatment to produce the fabric untreated with the binder produce the crepe effect, is printed in a pattern with a 10% crepe effect, and the portions treated with the water solution of gelatin heated to C. The binder do not crepe appreciably. The effect of printed fabric is then dried. Thereafter the the binder is to render these portions more transfabric is passed through a 2% formaldehyde so- 45 lucent than the crepe portions under ordinary lution and is dried at as high a temperature as conditions. The preferred binder is an animal possible without injury to the material. After protein substance, such as albumin, animal glue this treatment, the printed, fabric is subjected to or gelatin. This material is preferably applied a crepe effecting treatment, as by placing it in in a water solution and is thereafter made water a hot soap bath at about 80 C. in the usual maninsoluble and resistant to the wet treatments of ner for creping, and a crepe effect is produced.

assignor to Heberlein Patent Corporation, New York, -N. Y., a corporation of New York No Drawing. Application June 19, 1934, Serial 9 Claims.

This invention relates to a process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics and to patterned fabrics obtained thereby. In the copending application Serial No. 716,430, filed March 19, 1934, which has now issued as Patent No. 2,085.946, there is described a process for the production of patterned effects on crepe fabrics, according to which a crepe fabric is treated with a parchmentizing agent at some time prior to its final shrinkage to produce a pattern design and then the so treated fabric is treated by a creping bath. This resulted in a crepe fabric having a crepe background with translucent pattern portions thereon, or vice versa.

the creping process by treatment with a hardening agent, such as by coagulation by heating, or tanning as by chromium salts, aluminum compounds, formaldehyde and formaldehyde compounds. Instead of the insolubilized substances In Germany June 22, 1933 just mentioned, there may be also employed natural or artificial prepared resin suitable for resisting the operations of the creping' process above mentioned and there may also be employed cellulose esters and cellulose regenerated from viscose or copper-oxide-ammonium solutions.

The fabrics employed according to this invention may be grey (rohe), as well as pretreated fabrics. In the case of thepretreated fabrics which are the most important in commercial use, these fabrics are treated in a manner similar to that described in the above mentioned application Ser. No. 716,430. That is, the previously shrunk fabric in crepe condition. which Thereupon the portions untreated with the insolubilized gelatin binder will crepe, while the portions treated with the insolubilized gelatin binder will remain substantially uncreped. Thereafter. if the fabric treated is held loose while drying, the shrunk creped portions of the fabric will cause the binder treated portions to become somewhat puffed with wave-like elevations and corresponding hollows. The portions treated with the insolubilized gelatin will also appear more translucent and will be stiffer than the untreated portions. The material produced is a crepe fabric having a patterned effect thereon made up of a crepe background with a translucent somewhat stiff design thereon or vice versa, the translucent portion containing insolubilized binder.

Example 2 As mentioned above, fabrics which are already in crepe condition may also be employed to produce new patterned effects. A cotton fabric for creping is bleached in the usual manner. Great shrinking thereby takes place and the crepe effect is produced on the fabric. -While the fabric is drying and still in moist state, it is put under tension along its width and length so that it assumes substantially its original size before creping. It is then printed with an 8% acetyl cellulose solution and dried. Thereafter the fabric so treated is passed through a hot soap creping-bath, from which it is removed and dried without tension. The effect produced is similar to that given in Example 1 above.

While the invention has been described in detail according to the preferred manner of carrying out the process, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art after understanding the invention, that changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention, and it is intended in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics, which comprises treating a crepe fabric containing highly twisted yarn which will shrink in the creping operation, at some time prior to its final shrinkage, to provide areas which are covered with a substantially insoluble binder, which areas are capable of resisting wet treatments of the usual crep-.

ing operation, and then subjecting the fabric to creping treatment, causing the portions of the fabric untreated with the binder to crepe, and leaving the treated portions substantially uncreped and permanently covered with the substantially insoluble binder.

2. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics, which comprises applying a crepe fabric at some time prior 'to its final shrinkage with a binder consisting of an animal protein such as gelatin to produce a pattern design, insolubilizing the pattern design so that it will resist wet treatment of the usual creping operation, and then subjecting the fabric to a creping treatment and thereby causing the portions of the fabric untreated with the binder to crepe, leaving the treated portions still containing the binder substantially uncreped.

3. A crepe fabric having a patterned effect thereon made up of a crepe background having shrunk highly twisted threads with a translucent somewhat stiff design thereon, the translucent portion containing unshrunk highly twisted threads and a binder. 4. A crepe fabric having a patterned effect thereon made up of a crepe design having shrunk highly twisted threads therein with a translucent somewhat stiff background with. the translucent background containing unshrunk highly twisted threads and a binder.

5. A process according to claim 2 in which the gelatin is insolubilized by treatment with formaldehyde.

6. A process for producing patterned effects on crepe fabrics which comprises applying to a crepe fabric at sometime prior to its final shrinkage a binder which is soluble to some extent in the ordinary shrinking bath for the crepe effect thereby forming a pattern on the fabric, insolublizing the pattern design so that it will resist the action of said bath, and then subjecting the fabric to a creping treatment and thereby causing the portions of the fabric untreated with the binder to crepe, leaving the treated port-ion substantially uncreped and permanently covered with the substantially insoluble binder.

7. A process according to claim 1, in which the binder is a resin.

8. A crepe fabric having a crepe area and a stiffened area, the stiffened area containing unshrunk, highly twisted threads and a Waterinsoluble binder.

9. A process according to claim 1. in which the binder is applied as a solution of a cellulose