JPH0726480A - Colored fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain colored fabric capable of optionally providing a change in hue and assuming an iridescent appearance in a simple dyeing processing step in a short time without complicatedness in production or dyeing processing of woven fabric. CONSTITUTION:This colored fabric is characterized by imparting a color different from the ground color to either of warp or weft yarn in protruding parts where the warp and weft yarns of woven fabric are superimposed. The colored fabric is produced by applying a sizing agent solution containing a dye as a colorant or a resin liquid containing a pigment to the woven fabric with a gravure roll of 75-200 mesh.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to colored fabrics. The invention particularly relates to colored fabrics that exhibit an iridescent-like appearance.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics having an iridescent-like optical interference effect have been industrialized. For example, a warp yarn and a weft yarn of a woven fabric are made into different kinds of fibers, and both are dyed in different colors, and the interference of the both gives an iridescent appearance. Specifically, using normal polyester fiber for the warp yarn, using cationic dyeable polyester fiber for the weft yarn,
Different colors of disperse dye and cationic dye, polyester fiber for warp yarn and polyamide fiber for weft yarn, and different colors of disperse dye and acid dye, respectively. is there. In addition, various combinations such as using polyester and rayon are also conceivable.

However, the method of using different fibers for each length and width and dyeing them in different colors to give an iridescent appearance is to use different yarns in terms of fabric production.
It is complicated and requires a long time because another dye is used at the time of dyeing and dyeing in another bath. Furthermore, at each stage from yarn preparation to dyeing finishing, it was a lot of work, unlike when using single fibers.

Further, there has been no attempt to produce an iridescent effect with a woven fabric obtained by using the same fiber or a fiber dyeable with the same dye (for example, a mixed fiber of fibers having different shrinkability, a mixed woven fabric). However, it has not yet been able to obtain sufficient results. Further, there is no industrially manufactured woven fabric having a color pattern formed of a portion having an iridescent appearance and a portion not having an iridescent appearance.

When considering a method of manufacturing such a cloth, by using different fibers in the vertical and horizontal directions,
It is considered possible to form the dobby pattern at the manufacturing stage of the woven fabric and to dye it with different hues by using different dyes for the warp yarn and the weft yarn at the time of dyeing.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above problems by imparting an iridescent appearance in the post-processing, does not have the complexity of textile manufacturing and dyeing, and the dyeing process is simple. Provide a colored fabric exhibiting an iridescent color that is short in time and capable of arbitrarily giving a hue change, and further, a color pattern composed of a part having an iridescent effect and a part not having an iridescent effect is formed. Another object is to provide colored fabrics.

[0007]

According to the present invention, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, only one of the warp yarn or the weft yarn is formed in the convex portion of the woven fabric in which the warp yarn and the weft yarn overlap each other.
Provided is a colored fabric, which is characterized by being colored in a color different from the background color. The gist of the present invention is a fabric in which only one of the warp yarn or the weft yarn is colored in a different color from the ground color in the convex portion where the warp yarn and the weft yarn of the woven fabric overlap each other. This cloth has an iridescent appearance and preferably has a different hue on the front surface and the back surface.

The woven fabric useful in the present invention comprises various fibers composed of filaments or spuns, and polyester, polyamide, cotton, wool, cationic dyeable polyester, rayon, triacetate and the like can be applied. In addition, mixed fibers of polyester and polyamide that can be dyed with the same dye, regular polyester and new synthetic fibers that have been talked about in recent years,
It may be a woven product. There are no particular restrictions on the texture of the woven fabric, such as plain weave, twill, and satin, but the most effective one is the one using spun yarn or woven fabric made of filament yarn, fluffed or sanded with sandpaper. A woven fabric, a dobby fabric, a Shantan fabric, or the like, which has a fabric structure in which more warp yarns or weft yarns are exposed on the surface.

The woven fabric may be a white fabric as it is, or may be previously dyed with a plain fabric before the treatment for obtaining the effect of the present invention. The dyeing method for this purpose is not particularly limited, and a dye suitable for each fiber can be used, and a method which is usually carried out industrially can be applied as it is. However, the dyeing density and the hue should be in consideration of the relationship with the color to be colored later, and an iridescent effect is unlikely to be exhibited with a very dark color.

In such a woven fabric, in the convex portion where the warp yarn and the weft yarn overlap each other, only one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is colored in a color different from the ground color. The coloring is
It is preferred that the projections of the warp yarns overlap on the weft yarns. As a mechanical means for coloring only one thread of the convex portion where the vertical thread and the horizontal thread are overlapped,
A method using a gravure roll coater is preferably used. Also, for the gravure roll mesh, 75-
The range of 200 is preferable, and the range of 100 to 150 is more preferable. When the mesh is smaller than this, there is a risk that the warp yarn and the weft yarn are colored without distinction, and the iridescent design effect is lost, or moire is generated. It may occur.
Also, with a mesh above this range, the coloring effect is small,
It is difficult to obtain an iridescent effect. In the woven fabric, one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn usually has a structure in which the warp yarn or the weft yarn floats more than the other. It will be transferred to the thread. Furthermore, if a 75 to 200 mesh gravure roll is selected, it is possible to more reliably color only one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn.

As the colorant, dyes used for dyeing the respective fibers and various resins colored with pigments can be used. When using a dye, a water-soluble sizing agent, for example,
The one added to the solution of guar gum, CMC and sodium alginate is used. After coloring with a gravure roll, the fabric is treated by means of dry heat treatment, saturated steam treatment, heating steam treatment, etc. to cause the dye to develop color, and it is rinsed with hot water to remove the attached sizing agent, and then rinsed with water, Dry and finish.

When a pigment is used, it is preferably used in combination with a urethane resin or acrylic resin dissolved in a solvent or a urethane resin or acrylic resin dispersed in water. As the pigment, it is also possible to use an organic or inorganic pigment dispersed in a solvent system using a vehicle compatible with various resins or a pigment dispersed in water. Various crosslinking agents may be added to such a resin in order to improve the adhesion to the fiber. Examples of such a crosslinking agent are solvent-based or water-based crosslinking agents such as isocyanate-based, melamine-based, and epoxy-based crosslinking agents. After the colorant is applied by the gravure roll, the cloth is dried, and if necessary, heat-treated to react with the crosslinking agent.

In this way, a fabric having an iridescent effect can be obtained, and a color pattern with a portion having no iridescent effect is formed by a combination with a printing method. For example, a normal water-based printing paste to which a fluorine-based water repellent is added is printed on a cloth, dried, and then treated with a water-based color paste by the gravure coloring method described above. The portion printed with is not colored, and a colored pattern is formed which includes a portion having an iridescent effect and a portion having no iridescent effect.

If a dark overprint is applied before or after the gravure coloring, the surface light reflection of the printed portion is reduced, and the iridescent effect is reduced or lost. Furthermore, if a multicolor print consisting of dark, medium and light colors is applied, the iridescent effect of the dark color part is lost, the effect is reduced in the middle color part, and strong in the light color gravure coloring and the opposite color part. An iridescent effect is developed.

As another method, if a method of partially printing a color paste containing a chemical having a decolorizing effect on the gravure colorant before or after the gravure coloring is applied, only this part is decolorized and an iridescent color is obtained. The effect disappears and a colored pattern is formed with the part that has the iridescent effect. For example, in the case of a polyester fiber woven fabric, such an effect can be achieved by using an ordinary disperse dye for gravure coloring and using a printing paste containing a nonionic surfactant having a decolorizing effect. . Furthermore, if a discharge dye that is easily reductively decomposed as a disperse dye is used for gravure coloring, and if a paste containing a tin-based or zinc-based reducing agent is imprinted before and after that, this part will be decolorized and an iridescent effect will be obtained. A colored pattern is formed by a portion with and without a mark.

As another method, a method of printing an aqueous urethane resin or acrylic resin before or after gravure coloring can be used. Of course, such a resin to which a pigment is added may be printed. After the coloring is completed, an auxiliary treatment that is usually performed for finishing the textile material such as antistatic treatment and water repellent treatment may be performed.

[0017]

The feature of the colored fabric according to the present invention is that either the warp or the weft yarn interferes with another coloring applied only to the overlapping convex portions of the both, and exhibits a strong iridescent-like effect. . The iridescent effect is stronger than that obtained by conventional industrially practiced methods and is excellent in design.

Further, as a feature of the colored cloth according to the present invention, there is a novel cloth having a high design property, in which a color pattern composed of a portion having an iridescent effect and a portion having no iridescent effect is formed. Another feature is that the part that does not have the iridescent effect is colored in a different color, and the color pattern obtained is completely new in appearance, increasing the added value at the manufacturing stage of the final product. .

Further, in the fabric of the present invention, preferably, the iridescent effect appears on only one side and the back side is different in color, which increases the added value in the manufacturing stage of the final product, and can be used for both front and back surfaces of product design. The range also becomes wider. Further, since the fabric of the present invention can be easily manufactured by using the fabric composed of the same fiber, the productivity is improved, and the iridescent effect is larger than that when the fabric composed of different fibers is used.

[0020]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples. In addition, a part shows a weight part in an example. Example 1 Polyester short fibers, number 30 is 100 vertical / inch,
A plain woven fabric was prepared by driving into 70 horizontal pieces / inch. This woven fabric was preliminarily set, fried, and then immersed in a continuous scouring tank containing soda ash and a surfactant for scouring.

Then, using a caustic soda solution, 1 by weight
8% reduction processing was performed. After sufficiently washing with water, a disperse dye was used to dye a beige color at a temperature of 130 ° C. After drying, it was heat set at 180 ° C. Next, the following mixture of dye and paste was prepared as a colorant. Guar gum-based sizing solution (10% solution) 60 parts Dianix Red KBSE 3 parts Water 37 parts Gravure roll 125 mesh was used to continuously color the plain dyed fabric. After drying, it was heat-treated at 180 ° C. for 3 minutes using a tenter machine to dye the dye.

Next, using a continuous soaping machine, washing with hot water at 50 ° C. to remove the sizing agent, and drying, 180
It was set at ℃. The obtained colored fabric had different hues on the front and back sides, and exhibited a strong iridescent-like effect in which red interfered with beige.

Example 2 Using the beige solid color dyeing cloth used in Example 1,
The following composition was prepared as a colorant. Resamine LU3560 (urethane resin, Dainichi Seika) 100 parts Howlac Brown A1402 (manufactured by Dainippon Ink) 5 parts Howlac Black A1361 (manufactured by Dainippon Ink) 0.2 parts Coronate HL (isocyanate cross-linking agent, Takeda Yakuhin) 3.0 parts Next, using a 140 mesh gravure roll, it was continuously colored. After drying, it was heat-treated at 160 ° C. for 30 seconds with a tenter machine.

The colored fabric thus obtained had a different hue between the front and back sides, and exhibited a strong iridescent-like effect in which brown was interfered with on beige. Further, when observed with an optical microscope, only the portion where the warp yarn of the woven fabric overlaps the weft yarn was colored brown.

Example 3 A warp yarn made of polyester filament is a core yarn 30d.
/ 6f, sheath yarn is 55d / 68f and is a different shrinkage mixed yarn, and weft yarn is polyester filament 75d / 72
A plain woven fabric was used in which regular yarns of f were woven at 200 threads / inch and 100 threads / inch, respectively.

This woven fabric was pre-set at 160 ° C. and then continuously ground using 150 mesh of sandpaper. Then, the mixture was placed in a jet dyeing machine, caustic soda and a nonionic surfactant were added, the temperature was gradually raised to 110 ° C., and a relaxation treatment that combines scouring and weight reduction was performed. Then, it was thoroughly washed with water and dyed red with a disperse dye. Next, the compounding composition of the following disperse dye and sizing agent was prepared.

Guar gum type sizing agent (10% solution) 60 parts Miketone Polyester Blue TSF 5 parts Water 35 parts A plain dyed fabric was continuously colored using a 140 mesh gravure roll. Color was then developed using superheated steam at 185 ° C. To remove the sizing agent, soda ash and hydrosulfite were used and washed at 95 ° C.
Further, it was washed with water, dried, and then finish set at 180 ° C.

The colored fabric obtained had different hues on the front and back sides, and exhibited a strong iridescent effect in which blue interfered with red.

Example 4 Using a 40th polyester span, vertical 104
The plain woven fabric, which was punched into 68 pieces and 68 pieces horizontally, was put in a cloth bag, put in a washer machine, and heat-treated in water at 120 ° C for 1 hour to forcibly give wrinkles. It was then placed in a jet dyeing machine and dyed orange at 130 ° C. using a disperse dye. In this way, a wrinkled plain dyed fabric was obtained. Furthermore, in order to color this cloth, the following blending composition of pigment and resin was prepared.

Resamine LU3500 (urethane resin, manufactured by Dainichiseika) 100 parts Howlac Brown A1276 (manufactured by Dainippon Ink) 20 parts Coronate HL (isocyanate-based cross-linking agent, Takeda Chemicals) 3 parts Using 125 mesh of gravure roll It was continuously colored and dried. Finally, it was finished and set at 180 ° C.

The obtained colored cloth has different hues on the front and back sides, and the background color of orange interferes with the gravure coloring of blue,
It was excellent in the effect of a beetle, and had an excellent design with an uneven dyed appearance in which the wrinkled peaks were dark and the valleys were lightly colored.

Example 5 A fabric with a Shantan structure composed of 100% polyester was dyed in a beige color using a disperse dye. next,
A paste having a composition containing the following water repellent was printed in a pattern and dried. Guar gum-based sizing agent (solid content 3%) 50 parts Asahi Guard AG710 (manufactured by Asahi Glass) 20 parts Water 30 parts Next, prepare the following color paste for gravure coloring, 125
This color paste was printed using a mesh gravure roll. The color paste did not adhere to the part printed with the water repellent in advance.

Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 50 parts Sumikaron red SE-RPD 2 parts water 47 parts Next, using a steamer containing superheated steam, 175 ° C.
The color was developed with, and it was soaped and dried using hot water containing an alkali and a reducing agent.

The part where the water repellent was printed was beige, and the other part was colored red in the convex part of the warp yarn, showing a strong iridescent effect.

Example 6 A nylon dobby fabric was dyed in a bright yellow color with an acid dye. Next, a paste having a composition containing the following water repellent was printed in a pattern and dried. Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 60 parts Asahi Guard AG710 10 parts Water 30 parts Prepare a urethane resin composition containing the following pigments for gravure coloring, and use a 125 mesh gravure roll to compound the urethane resin. The product was printed and dried at 120 ° C.

SP-225 (urethane resin manufactured by Dainichi Seika) 100 parts Dailac blue L5758 20 parts (Dai Nippon Ink Co., Ltd. pigment) The part printed with the water repellent agent is a vivid yellow, and the other part is warp yarn. The protrusions were colored blue and showed a strong iridescent effect.

Example 7 A fabric of Shantan structure consisting of 100% polyester was dyed in a beige color using a disperse dye. Next, the following color paste was prepared for gravure coloring, and this color paste was printed using a 125 mesh gravure roll.

Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 50 parts Resolrin Blue FR 3 parts Water 47 parts Furthermore, the following color pastes were prepared for printing, and printing was performed using a screen printing type.

Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 60 parts Sumikaron Navy Blue S-2GL 5 parts Water 37 parts Next, using a steamer containing superheated steam, 175 ° C.
The color was developed with, and it was soaped and dried using hot water containing an alkali and a reducing agent.

The gravure-colored portion had a blue iridescent-like effect, and the portion on which printing was repeated had a dark navy color and had no iridescent-like effect, and a colored fabric having a high designability was obtained.

Example 8 A bleaching of polyester georgette fabric was prepared. Next, the following color paste was prepared, and this color paste was printed using a 125 mesh gravure roll and dried. Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 60 parts Paranyl dark blue 3RT 1 part Water 39 parts Further, the following sizing agent for discharge printing was prepared, and printing was performed using a screen printing type.

Unistone AM200 (Hayashi Kagaku discharge agent) 50 parts Color Fine AD (Nippon Kagaku product discharge aid) 15 parts Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 25 parts Water 30 parts Then steamer containing superheated steam Used, 175 ℃
The color was developed with, and it was soaped and dried using hot water containing an alkali and a reducing agent.

The gravure-colored blue portion exhibited an iridescent-like effect, and the portion on which the discharge printing paste was printed formed a white color pattern.

Example 9 A spun plain fabric of 100% polyester was dyed plain light beige. Next, the following color paste was prepared for gravure coloring, and this color paste was printed using a 125 mesh gravure roll and dried. Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content: 3%) 50 parts Resolulin Blue FR 3 parts Water 47 parts Furthermore, the following color pastes were prepared for printing and printing was performed using a screen printing type.

Regi Half DA (Matsui dye semi-discharging agent) 30 parts Guar gum type sizing agent (solid content 3%) 30 parts water 40 parts Next, using a steamer containing superheated steam, 175 ° C.
The color was developed with, and it was soaped and dried using hot water containing alkali and a reducing agent.

The gravure-colored blue part showed an iridescent effect, and the part printed with the discharge printing paste had a decolorized color pattern.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A colored article, characterized in that, in a convex portion in which a warp yarn and a weft yarn of a woven fabric overlap each other, only one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is colored in a color different from a ground color. Cloth. 2. The colored fabric according to claim 1, wherein a color pattern in which a portion having an iridescent appearance and a portion having no iridescent appearance are mixed is formed on the surface of the woven fabric. 3. A method for producing a colored cloth, which comprises applying a sizing agent solution containing a dye as a colorant or a resin solution containing a pigment as a colorant to a woven fabric using a 75 to 200 mesh gravure roll.