JP3726373B2 - Black color polyester fiber fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Black color polyester fiber fabric and method for producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
JP3726373B2
JP3726373B2 JP23504496A JP23504496A JP3726373B2 JP 3726373 B2 JP3726373 B2 JP 3726373B2 JP 23504496 A JP23504496 A JP 23504496A JP 23504496 A JP23504496 A JP 23504496A JP 3726373 B2 JP3726373 B2 JP 3726373B2
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Japan
Prior art keywords
black
fabric
sheath
fiber
polyester fiber
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Expired - Fee Related
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JP23504496A
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Japanese (ja)
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JPH1077523A (en
Inventor
勝 正木
幸志 高橋
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Toray Industries Inc
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Toray Industries Inc
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
堅牢性に優れ、しかも趣のある黒発色性に富み、さらにドレープ性に優れた黒発色ボリエステル系繊維布帛およびその製造方法に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、ポリエステルの屈折率はアセテート、アクリル、レーヨン、ナイロンなどより高いため発色が劣りパステル調の色相であった。
【0003】
ポリエステルの発色性を向上させるため、シリコン、シリカ、フッソ、ウレタンなどの低屈折率の物質を繊維表面に付着させたり、繊維表面にミクロボイドを作り光の反射を少なくすることなどが考えられ、それなりの効果が得られている。
【0004】
また、根本的に黒の発色性を向上させるには染料濃度を増加することが必須であり、高濃度染色が必要であった。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
カーボンブラック添加の黒原着を用いて、黒色分散染料で染色する方法もあるが減量加工を行わないとドレープ性のあるしなやかな織物は得られず、カーボンブラック添加の黒原着糸使い織物に減量加工を行った場合、溶出したカーボンブラックが加工機に付着し汚れる問題および得られた製品の摩擦堅牢度が著しく不良で、製品としての性能を得ることができないなどの欠点を有していた。
【0006】
本発明は、上記従来技術の欠点を解消し、しなやかで堅牢度低下や摩擦白化が少なく、発色性を維持しながら、各種の色相を有する趣に富んだ黒発色ポリエステル系繊維布帛およびその製造方法を提供せんとするものである。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、かかる課題を解決するために次のような手段を採用する。すなわち、本発明の黒発色ポリエステル系繊維布帛の製造方法は、芯成分が顔料を含むポリエステルで、鞘成分がナイロンで構成されてなる芯鞘型複合繊維からなる布帛を、該鞘成分を溶解または分解して除去した後、分散染料で染色することを特徴とするものである。
【0009】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明は、しなやかで、堅牢度低下や摩擦白化が少なく、優れた発色性、特に黒発色性を維持しながら、しかも各種の色相を含む趣に富んだ発色性に優れたポリエステル系繊維布帛を提供するために、鋭意検討したところ、顔料を分散したポリマを用いて繊維化した顔料原着繊維を使用し、これに各種色相の分散染料を吸尽させることにより、上述の課題を一挙に解決することを究明したものである。
【0010】
本発明におけるポリエステルとはテレフタル酸ジメチルとエチレングルコールを主成分とするもので、適宜第3成分のスルホン化芳香族ジカルボン酸変性ポリエステルなどを入ても、鞘の溶解除去に耐えるものであればなんらかまわない。本発明は、かかるポリエステル系繊維の内部に、顔料と分散染料を含有させたところに特徴を有する。かかるポリエステル系繊維は、通常顔料原着繊維として知られているものである。たとえば、かかる顔料原着繊維が、黒色顔料、すなわちカーボンブラック原着繊維である場合、該カーボンブラックをポリエステル系ポリマで被覆したポリマ粒で構成されているものを、口金から押出して延伸したものである。こうして得られた顔料原着繊維を分散染料で染色(吸尽)すると、該分散染料は、該ポリエステル系繊維を構成する該ポリマ粒の被覆ポリマに吸尽されることとなる。染色方法として、たとえば捺染法を採用すると、該分散染料が、部分的または模様状に付与されているものが得られる。
【0011】
発色性を高めるために、該ポリエステル系繊維の表面に低屈折率物質被膜を付与するのは好ましいことである。
【0012】
本発明でいう布帛とは、織編物、不織布および網状物から選ばれた少なくとも1種を表現したものである。
【0013】
本発明でいう顔料は、有機顔料および無機顔料のいずれでも使用することができるが、耐久性の上から無機顔料がよい。これらの顔料は、複数混合されたものであってもよい。発色性の中でも黒発色は非常に困難を伴うものとして知られているが、本発明は、この黒発色にきわめて有効である。
【0014】
本発明における顔料として、カーボンブラックを使用して、黒発色性に優れた繊維を提供する場合、かかるカーボンブラックとしては、平均の一次粒子径が20〜70mμのものが好ましく使用される。20mμ未満のものはカーボンブラック特有の赤味になり、70mμを越えるものは黒の深みが減少し好ましくない。また、原着繊維に含有させる含有量は0.5〜4.0重量%であり1.0〜3.0重量%がより好ましい。
【0015】
本発明の黒発色性に優れたポリエステル系繊維布帛を製造する方法としては、たとえば、該顔料粒子をポリエステル系ポリマに混合、分散せしめてなる顔料原着ポリエステル系繊維からなる布帛を、分散染料で染色する方法、また、芯成分が顔料を含むポリエステルで、鞘成分が、該芯成分ポリマに比して溶解または分解して除去され易い顔料を含まないポリマで構成されてなる芯鞘型複合繊維からなる布帛を、該鞘成分を溶解または分解して除去した後、分散染料で染色する方法のいずれかの方法で提供することができるが、後者の方法によれば、さらに優れたドレープ性を有する布帛を提供することができる。
【0016】
また、芯鞘複合繊維とは2種類の異なるポリマーがほぼ同心円状に配列されているもので内側を芯、その芯を包んでいる外側を鞘と呼ぶものである。
【0017】
本発明の芯鞘複合繊維の芯/鞘の比率は95/5から50/50であり、より好ましくは90/10から70/30である。芯の比率が95以上になると鞘の溶解除去でのドレープ性向上が満足でなく、50以下では鞘の溶解除去後の強力低下が大きく、商品価値がなくなるものである。本発明は鞘を溶解除去し、良好なドレープを提供するものである。
【0018】
鞘の溶解除去は例えば、鞘がナイロンであれば蟻酸などの酸によって、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を含むスルホン化芳香族ジカルボン酸変性ポリエステルであれば、アルカリ処理や、酸による脆化処理後アルカリ処理で、また、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、イソフタル酸を含む熱水可溶型スルホン化芳香族ジカルボン酸変性ポリエステルであれば熱水で鞘を溶解除去するなど芯のポリマーを溶解することなく除去できる方法であればなんら限定するものではない。また、本発明の分散染料とはポリエステル繊維に染色できる分散染料であれば良い。
【0019】
本発明における低屈折率物質とは一般に染色されたポリエステル繊維の発色性を向上させる物質であって、シリコン、シリカ、フッ素、ウレタンなどのポリエステル繊維よりも低い屈折率の物質を言い、繊維表面に付着さる方法は浸積吸尽法、パッド法などがあり、その方法はいずれでもかまわない。また、繊維表面に低屈折率の被膜を固着させるのに、各種樹脂、柔軟剤、制電剤、撥水剤、SR剤などを用いてもなんらかまわないものである。
【0020】
本発明の堅牢性と黒発色性は、カーボンブラックを含む芯のポリエステル繊維をさらに分散染料で染色することにより達成することができる。顔料、特にカーボンブラックのみでも発色性(黒発色)は得られるもののそれだけでは商品価値が低い。これに分散染料でさらに染色することで少ない染料で、しかも堅牢性に問題ない濃度での染色を達成することができ、目標の黒発色を達成することができる。かかる黒発色ポリエステル系繊維布帛は、学生服、婦人・紳士用途、和装品および裏地等に好適に使用されるが、特にブラックフォーマル用途に適している。
【0021】
【実施例】
実施例1
平均の一次粒子径が43mμのカーボンブラック1.5重量%を含むポリエステルを芯に、12mol%の5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸および18mol%のイソフタル酸を含み、主たる酸成分がテレフタル酸である共重合ポリエステルを鞘にした芯/鞘比率が80/20の75デニール36フィラメントの芯鞘複合繊維を経糸、緯糸に用い、経糸密度90本/インチ、緯糸密度80本/インチの平組織の織物を製織した。
【0022】
得られた織物をシワを入れることなくネットコンベア型リラックス熱処理機で130℃処理し、タテヨコとも引っ張ることなく180℃でピンテンターにより中間セットを行った。次いで液流染色機にて0.5%のカセイソーダ溶液を用い、100℃、15分の条件で20%の鞘を溶解除去した後、Disperse Black T-1を繊維重量に対し10%を用い、130℃、60分の染色後、ハイドロサルファイト、カセイソーダ、洗浄剤で還元洗浄を行い乾燥した。得られた黒染め織物を東レシリコン社製深色加工剤SH8710を用い45g/lの水溶液を作り、その液でパディング後110℃、2分の乾燥および160℃、1分のキュアリングの深色加工を行った。
【0023】
比較例1
75デニール36フィラメントのポリエステルを経糸、緯糸に用い、経糸密度90本/インチ、緯糸密度80本/インチの平組織の織物を製織した。
【0024】
実施例1と同様に得られた織物をシワを入れることなくネットコンベア型リラックス熱処理機で130℃処理し、タテヨコとも引っ張ることなく180℃でピンテンターにより中間セットを行った。次いで液流染色機にて3%のカセイソーダ溶液を用い、100℃、130分の条件で20%の減量加工した後、実施例1と同様の加工を行った。
【0025】
比較例2
75デニール36フィラメントの平均の一次粒子径が43mμのカーボンブラック1.5重量%を含むポリエステルを経糸、緯糸に用い、経糸密度90本/インチ、緯糸密度80本/インチの平組織の織物を製織した。
【0026】
実施例1と同様に得られた織物を、シワを入れることなくネットコンベア型リラックス熱処理機で130℃処理し、タテヨコとも引っ張ることなく180℃でピンテンターにより中間セットを行った。次いで液流染色機にて3%のカセイソーダ溶液を用い、100℃、115分の条件で20%の減量加工した後、実施例1と同様の加工を行った。
【0027】
比較例3
比較例2の中間セット上がりの生地を減量することなく、比較例2と同様に加工を行った。
【0028】
発色性は、ここで得られた4点の黒色織物についてMINOLTA製CR−310にてその反射率を測定し、Labの色差式から濃度指標であるL値を求めて、その結果を表1に示した。なお、L値はその値が小さいほど深みのある黒となる。
【0029】
摩擦堅牢度はJIS L 0849に規定されている摩擦堅牢度(染色された繊維製品が実用中の摩擦によって他の繊維製品への色移りする程度を見る)の評価結果であり、1〜5級で表し等級の大きいものほど堅牢度は良好である。
【0030】
しなやかさは、布が自重により垂れ下がる状態とハンドリングによる官能評価により下記基準に基づいて判定した。
【0031】
判定の基準
○:しなやかさに優れる
△:しなやかさにやや欠ける
×:しなやかさに欠ける
【表1】

Figure 0003726373
表1から明らかな用に、実施例1は、発色性、摩擦堅牢度が良くしなやかであるのに対し、比較例1は、摩擦堅牢度が良くドレープ性も良いが、満足な黒発色は得られなかった。比較例2は、黒発色が良くドレープ性も良いが、摩擦堅牢度が不合格であった。減量処理を行わない比較例3は、満足なドレープ性が得られなかった。すなわち、本発明の黒色織物は鮮明で深みのある黒色を呈していることが数値的にも認められた。
【0032】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、堅牢性に優れ、しなやかさを合わせもつ優れた黒発色ポリエステル系繊維布帛を提供することができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a black-colored polyester fiber fabric excellent in fastness, rich in tasteful black color development, and excellent in drape, and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, the refractive index of polyester is higher than that of acetate, acrylic, rayon, nylon, etc., so the color development is inferior and the hue is pastel.
[0003]
In order to improve the color developability of polyester, it is conceivable to attach low refractive index substances such as silicon, silica, fluorine, urethane, etc. to the fiber surface, or to create microvoids on the fiber surface to reduce light reflection. The effect is obtained.
[0004]
Further, in order to fundamentally improve the black color developability, it is essential to increase the dye concentration, and high density dyeing is necessary.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
There is also a method of dyeing with black disperse dye using carbon black-added black dyeing, but if we do not perform weight reduction processing, a draped and supple fabric will not be obtained, and carbon black-added black original yarn using woven fabric will be weight-reduced In this case, there was a problem that the eluted carbon black adhered to the processing machine and became dirty and the friction fastness of the obtained product was extremely poor, so that the product performance could not be obtained.
[0006]
The present invention eliminates the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and is a pleasing black coloring polyester fiber fabric having various hues while maintaining color developability while maintaining low color fastness and friction whitening, and a method for producing the same Is intended to provide.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention employs the following means in order to solve such problems. That is, the method for producing a black-colored polyester fiber fabric of the present invention comprises dissolving a sheath component of a fabric comprising a core-sheath type composite fiber in which the core component is polyester containing a pigment and the sheath component is made of nylon. It is characterized by being dyed with a disperse dye after being decomposed and removed.
[0009]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a polyester fiber fabric that is supple, has low color fastness and friction whitening, maintains excellent color developability, particularly black color developability, and is excellent in tasteful color developability including various hues. In order to provide it, we have intensively studied and solved the above problems all at once by using pigment-dyed fibers made from a pigment-dispersed polymer and exhausting dispersed dyes of various hues. It has been clarified to do.
[0010]
The polyester in the present invention is mainly composed of dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol, as long as it can withstand dissolution and removal of the sheath even if a third component sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid-modified polyester is appropriately added. I don't care. The present invention is characterized in that a pigment and a disperse dye are contained inside such a polyester fiber. Such a polyester fiber is generally known as a pigment original fiber. For example, in the case where such a pigment original fiber is a black pigment, that is, a carbon black original fiber, a material composed of polymer particles obtained by coating the carbon black with a polyester polymer is extruded from a base and stretched. is there. When the pigment primary fiber thus obtained is dyed (exhausted) with a disperse dye, the disperse dye is exhausted by the polymer coating of the polymer particles constituting the polyester fiber. When, for example, a printing method is employed as the dyeing method, a product in which the disperse dye is applied partially or in a pattern is obtained.
[0011]
In order to enhance the color developability, it is preferable to provide a low refractive index material coating on the surface of the polyester fiber.
[0012]
The fabric referred to in the present invention represents at least one selected from a woven / knitted fabric, a nonwoven fabric and a net-like material.
[0013]
As the pigment as used in the present invention, either an organic pigment or an inorganic pigment can be used, but an inorganic pigment is preferable in terms of durability. A plurality of these pigments may be mixed. Among the color developability, black color development is known to be extremely difficult, but the present invention is extremely effective for this black color development.
[0014]
When carbon black is used as a pigment in the present invention to provide a fiber having excellent black color developability, a carbon black having an average primary particle diameter of 20 to 70 mμ is preferably used. Those having a thickness of less than 20 mμ are reddish, which is characteristic of carbon black, and those having a thickness exceeding 70 mμ are not preferable because the depth of black is reduced. Further, the content of the original fiber is 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, and more preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight.
[0015]
As a method for producing a polyester fiber fabric excellent in black color developability according to the present invention, for example, a fabric made of a pigment-primed polyester fiber in which the pigment particles are mixed and dispersed in a polyester polymer is dispersed with a disperse dye. A core-sheath type composite fiber comprising a dyeing method and a core-component polyester containing a pigment, and a sheath component comprising a polymer that does not contain a pigment that is easily dissolved or decomposed and removed as compared with the core-component polymer. After the sheath component is dissolved or decomposed and removed, the fabric can be provided by any one of the methods of dyeing with a disperse dye. According to the latter method, further excellent drape properties can be obtained. The fabric which has can be provided.
[0016]
The core-sheath composite fiber is a fiber in which two different types of polymers are arranged substantially concentrically. The inner side is called a core, and the outer side surrounding the core is called a sheath.
[0017]
The core / sheath ratio of the core-sheath composite fiber of the present invention is 95/5 to 50/50, more preferably 90/10 to 70/30. When the ratio of the core is 95 or more, the improvement in the drape property by dissolving and removing the sheath is not satisfactory, and when it is 50 or less, the strength is greatly reduced after the sheath is dissolved and removed, and the commercial value is lost. The present invention dissolves and removes the sheath and provides a good drape.
[0018]
For example, if the sheath is nylon, the sheath is made of an acid such as formic acid, and if it is a sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid-modified polyester containing sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, an alkali treatment or an alkali treatment after embrittlement treatment with an acid is performed. Also, hot water-soluble sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid modified polyester containing sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or isophthalic acid can be removed without dissolving the core polymer by dissolving and removing the sheath with hot water. There is no limitation. Moreover, the disperse dye of this invention should just be a disperse dye which can be dye | stained to a polyester fiber.
[0019]
The low refractive index substance in the present invention is a substance that generally improves the color developability of dyed polyester fiber, and means a substance having a lower refractive index than that of polyester fiber such as silicon, silica, fluorine, urethane, etc. The adhering method includes an immersion exhaust method, a pad method, and the like, and any method may be used. In addition, various resins, softeners, antistatic agents, water repellents, SR agents and the like may be used to fix the low refractive index coating on the fiber surface.
[0020]
The fastness and black color development of the present invention can be achieved by further dyeing a core polyester fiber containing carbon black with a disperse dye. Although pigment (especially carbon black) alone can provide color developability (black color development), it alone has low commercial value. By further dyeing with a disperse dye, it is possible to achieve dyeing with a small amount of dye and at a density that does not cause a problem with fastness, and to achieve a target black color development. Such black-colored polyester fiber fabric is suitably used for school clothes, women's / gents use, Japanese clothing and lining, and is particularly suitable for black formal use.
[0021]
【Example】
Example 1
Copolymer containing 12 mol% 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid and 18 mol% isophthalic acid, the main acid component of which is terephthalic acid, based on a polyester containing 1.5% by weight of carbon black having an average primary particle size of 43 mμ Weaving a plain fabric with a warp density of 90 / inch and a weft density of 80 / inch using a 75-denier 36-filament core / sheath composite fiber with a polyester / sheath core / sheath ratio of 80/20 did.
[0022]
The obtained woven fabric was treated at 130 ° C. with a net conveyor type relaxation heat treatment machine without wrinkles, and intermediate setting was performed with a pin tenter at 180 ° C. without pulling with a vertical width. Next, using a 0.5% caustic soda solution with a liquid dyeing machine, 20% sheath was dissolved and removed at 100 ° C. for 15 minutes, and then Disperse Black T-1 was used at 10% based on the fiber weight. After dyeing at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, it was subjected to reduction cleaning with hydrosulfite, caustic soda and a cleaning agent and dried. A 45 g / l aqueous solution is made from the obtained black dyed fabric using a deep color processing agent SH8710 manufactured by Toray Silicon Co., Ltd. After padding with the solution, it is dried at 110 ° C. for 2 minutes and 160 ° C. for 1 minute for deep color Processing was performed.
[0023]
Comparative Example 1
A 75-denier 36-filament polyester was used for warp and weft to weave a plain fabric with a warp density of 90 / inch and a weft density of 80 / inch.
[0024]
The woven fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 was treated at 130 ° C. with a net conveyor type relaxation heat treatment machine without wrinkling, and intermediate setting was carried out with a pin tenter at 180 ° C. without pulling with a vertical side. Next, after reducing the weight by 20% under the conditions of 100 ° C. and 130 minutes using a 3% caustic soda solution in a liquid dyeing machine, the same processing as in Example 1 was performed.
[0025]
Comparative Example 2
Weaving a plain fabric with a warp density of 90 / inch and a weft density of 80 / inch using polyester containing 1.5% by weight of carbon black with an average primary particle diameter of 75 denier 36 filaments of 43 mμ for warp and weft did.
[0026]
The woven fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 was treated at 130 ° C. with a net conveyor type relaxation heat treatment machine without wrinkles, and intermediate setting was carried out with a pin tenter at 180 ° C. without pulling with a vertical side. Subsequently, after reducing the weight by 20% under the conditions of 100 ° C. and 115 minutes using a 3% caustic soda solution in a liquid dyeing machine, the same processing as in Example 1 was performed.
[0027]
Comparative Example 3
Processing was carried out in the same manner as in Comparative Example 2 without reducing the amount of the cloth in the intermediate set up in Comparative Example 2.
[0028]
The color developability was measured with the MINOLTA CR-310 for the four black fabrics obtained here, and the L value as a density index was determined from the Lab color difference formula. The results are shown in Table 1. Indicated. The L value becomes darker as the value is smaller.
[0029]
The fastness to friction is an evaluation result of the fastness to friction specified in JIS L 0849 (see the degree to which a dyed fiber product transfers color to other fiber products due to friction in practical use). The higher the grade, the better the fastness.
[0030]
The suppleness was determined based on the following criteria based on the state in which the cloth hangs down due to its own weight and the sensory evaluation by handling.
[0031]
Judgment criteria ○: excellent in flexibility Δ: slightly lacking in flexibility ×: lacking in flexibility [Table 1]
Figure 0003726373
As apparent from Table 1, Example 1 has good color development and friction fastness, while Comparative Example 1 has good friction fastness and good drape, but satisfactory black color development is obtained. I couldn't. In Comparative Example 2, the black color was good and the drape was good, but the fastness to friction was unacceptable. In Comparative Example 3 in which no weight reduction treatment was performed, satisfactory drapeability was not obtained. That is, it was numerically recognized that the black fabric of the present invention had a clear and deep black color.
[0032]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, it is excellent in toughness and can provide the outstanding black color development polyester-type fiber fabric which has suppleness.

Claims (1)

芯成分が顔料を含むポリエステルで、鞘成分がナイロンで構成されてなる芯鞘型複合繊維からなる布帛を、該鞘成分を溶解または分解して除去した後、分散染料で染色することを特徴とする黒発色ポリエステル系繊維布帛の製造方法。A fabric comprising a core-sheath type composite fiber in which the core component is polyester containing a pigment and the sheath component is made of nylon , and is removed by dissolving or decomposing the sheath component and then dyed with a disperse dye. A method for producing a black-colored polyester fiber fabric.
JP23504496A 1996-09-05 1996-09-05 Black color polyester fiber fabric and method for producing the same Expired - Fee Related JP3726373B2 (en)

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JP2002138372A (en) * 2000-10-30 2002-05-14 Toray Ind Inc Woven or knitted fabric and method for producing the same
JP3947975B2 (en) * 2003-06-20 2007-07-25 東洋紡績株式会社 Fabrics and uses made of composite spun yarn
TW200831738A (en) 2006-11-22 2008-08-01 Hyosung Corp Dope dyed flame retardant polyester fiber and blackout fabric produced therefrom
JP4582425B2 (en) * 2007-08-10 2010-11-17 東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社 Polyurethane yarn and method for producing the same
JP6504752B2 (en) * 2014-05-12 2019-04-24 セーレン株式会社 Woven and knitted
JP7323298B2 (en) * 2019-02-18 2023-08-08 大王製紙株式会社 multi-layer black paper
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