JPH05295673A - Dyed fabric product using both normal-pressure dyeable type polyester yarn and polyurethane yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a fabric of mixed yarn having excellent function of fastness free from polyurethane yarn of different color phase being seen by elongation in wearing, in fabric of mixture of normal-pressure dyeable type polyester yarn with polyurethane yarn by dyeing the polyurethane yarn side mainly with a reaction type disperse dye. CONSTITUTION:Fabric of mixture of normal-pressure dyeable type polyester yarn with polyurethane yarn, for example, is dyed by using a nonreaction disperse dye and a reaction type disperse dye (or by using only the reaction type disperse dye) by the conventional method, reduced and cleaned to give the objective dyed fabric of mixed yarn having excellent dyeing fastness free from phenomena of polyurethane yarn of different color phase being seen by elongation in wearing wherein the normal-pressure dyeable type polyester yarn side is dyed with the nonreaction type dye and the reaction type dye and the polyurethane yarn side with the reaction type disperse dye (or both yarn sides are dyed only with the reaction type disperse dye).

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a dyed product of a mixed fabric of atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyurethane fibers have excellent elasticity and elasticity, so they can be mixed with polyamide fibers etc.
Widely used in fabric forms such as leotards, sports knits and socks. However, polyamide fibers have poor morphological stability and dimensional stability, deterioration of polyurethane due to the use of tannic acid for dyeing, difficulty in obtaining levelness with a metal-containing dye, weak tightening force, yellowing due to gas or light. Occurs, the light fastness and wet fastness are low, and the discoloration due to chlorine water is large.

On the other hand, when the polyester fiber is mixed instead of the polyamide fiber, the problem of polyamide is solved. However, when dyeing with a disperse dye for polyester, there is a problem that the disperse dye is excessively adsorbed on the polyurethane fiber, so that the wet fastness is remarkably reduced. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out reduction washing to remove the disperse dye adsorbed on the polyurethane. However, in such a case, the disperse dye adsorbed on the polyurethane is reductively decomposed to reduce the color developability, and the polyurethane fiber has a significantly lower color density than the polyester fiber and has a different hue. When the fabric is stretched when it is worn, there is a problem that the polyurethane fibers of different hues are visible and the so-called bleeding phenomenon appears, which significantly reduces the commercial value of the product, and it is a polyester with good color development, bleeding and fastness performance. The current situation is that a mixed fabric of fibers and polyurethane fibers has not been obtained.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been earnestly studied in view of such circumstances, and it has a good coloring property even when dyed with a disperse dye, has no bleeding, and has excellent fastness performance. An object of the present invention is to provide a dyed product of a good mixed fabric of normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber.

[0005]

According to the present invention, a mixed cloth composed of an atmospheric dyeable polyester fiber and a polyurethane fiber is dyed, and the polyurethane fiber is mainly dyed with a reactive disperse dye. It is a fabric dyeing product in which atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber are mixed.

The atmospheric dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention is a disperse dye C-I-Disperse Blue 56.
(C.I. Disperse Blue 56; for example, Resolin Blue FBL (product name of Bayer AG of the Federal Republic of Germany) is used, the amount of dye used is 3% owf, the bath ratio is 50 times, p
H6 (adjusted with acetic acid), dispersant (eg Disper T
After dyeing for 120 minutes at 100 ° C. in a dyebath containing 1 g / L of L (product name of Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), the exhaustion rate of the dye dyed to the fiber is 75% or more, preferably 80% or more. A certain fiber. Here, the dye exhaustion rate is represented by the following equation.

Dye exhaustion rate (%) = (amount of dye dyed on the fiber (weight))
/ (Amount (weight) of dye added to the dye bath) × 100 Such an atmospheric dyeable polyester fiber is, for example, substantially made of polyethylene terephthalate, and has a spinning speed of 4
Spinning at 000m / min or more, dry heat 220 ~ 300 ℃
Alternatively, a fiber made of a polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer that has been heat-treated at 180 to 240 ° C. under moist heat, or a spin draw-up method, a spin take-up method, and a spinning speed of 5700 m / min or more, preferably 6000 m / min or more. Examples of the fibers include: Atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fibers obtained by the spin draw take-up method are preferable to give the cloth a tight feeling. Further, it may be a linear polymer containing ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, which is obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, sodium salt of sulfonated isophthalic acid, polyethylene glycol, etc. as a third component. It may contain an eraser, a stabilizer, an antistatic agent, and the like. Further, the degree of polymerization is not limited as long as it is within the usual fiber forming range. The normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber used in the present invention has a single fiber fineness of 0.1 to 3d, and a total fineness of 10 to 200d is preferable in view of color developability and texture. The single fiber strength is 3.0 to 6.0 g / d in view of problems such as intertwisting and entanglement during yarn processing and durability of the fabric.
Is preferred.

The normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited to long fibers, short fibers and the like, but long fibers are preferable and bulky processed yarns may be used. The polyurethane fiber used in the present invention has a composition, type,
The use of threads is not particularly limited, and polyether-based polyurethane fibers and polyester-based polyurethane fibers used for general clothing can be preferably applied. Among them, polyether-based polyurethane fibers having improved chlorine resistance are preferred for swimwear applications. The type of polyurethane fiber can be appropriately selected depending on the application, such as bright type with high clarity or semi-dal type with suppressed gloss.
Such type can be controlled by the amount of titanium oxide added.

The proportion of polyurethane fibers to be mixed with the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fibers of the present invention may be appropriately determined depending on the application, but it is preferable to mix polyurethane fibers in an amount of 40% or less. In addition to the above, a small amount of wool, cotton, silk, rayon, polyamide fiber, polyacrylic fiber or the like may be mixed in the mixed fabric product of the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber of the present invention. In this case, dyes usually used for each fiber may be used for dyeing.

The mixed form of the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited,
It is preferable to use a bare polyurethane fiber (10 to 500 d) as it is, or a form of a coated yarn in which atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber is wound around the bare yarn. In the case of a bare yarn, it can be mixed with the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber while being stretched about 2 to 4 times during knitting or weaving. In the case of a coated yarn, it is stretched and processed in the same manner with a usual coating processing machine. Further, as another mixed form, intertwisted, plied yarn, entangled, interwoven, or interwoven may be used. The form of the fabric is not particularly limited, and includes knitted fabric, woven fabric, and non-woven fabric.

In the mixed fabric dyeing product comprising the atmospheric dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber of the present invention,
Polyurethane fibers are mainly characterized in that reactive disperse dyes are dyed. In general, when a non-reactive disperse dye is dyed on a polyurethane fiber, the dyeing fastness is deteriorated due to a weak binding force. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out reduction decomposition removal by reduction cleaning using a reducing agent. Further, when the reactive disperse dye is dyed on the polyurethane fiber, the binding force is strong, the dyeing fastness is good, and the dyeing does not cause reductive decomposition even in the reduction washing, so that the eyes are not blinded. On the other hand, there is no problem even if both dyes are dyed on the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber. Therefore, the non-reactive disperse dye and the reactive disperse dye are dyed on the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber, and the reactive disperse dye is mainly dyed on the polyurethane fiber. It is a good quality product with good toughness, no peeling and excellent fastness performance.

Further, since the dyed product of the present invention uses the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber, it has a soft feeling and
It has excellent elasticity and elasticity. When the mixed fabric consisting of the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber is dyed only with the reactive disperse dye, there is no shaving and the fastness performance is good, but the color development of the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber is Insufficient and only dyed products of poor quality can be obtained. Further, in order to enhance the color developability, a large amount of dye is used, which causes a problem of high cost.

The ratio of the reactive disperse dye to be mixed with the non-reactive disperse dye in the dyeing of the mixed fabric composed of the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber may be appropriately determined depending on the hue and the dyeing density. Generally, it is preferable to mix 5 to 50%. The non-reactive disperse dye used for dyeing is not particularly limited as it is a disperse dye that is usually used for dyeing polyester fibers, but since the dye dyed on the polyurethane needs to be removed, it is necessary to remove it during reduction washing. It is preferable to use a dye that can be easily decomposed and removed by reduction, from the viewpoint of dyeing fastness and homogeneity.

Further, the reactive disperse dye has a usual disperse dye as a base material and a reactive group added thereto through a linking group, and is generally poorly water-soluble or insoluble represented by the formula (I). It is a dye.

[0015]

[Chemical 1]

In the formula, D represents a dye mother residue, X represents a fluorine atom, an optionally substituted alkyl group or aryl group, --OR ¹ group, --SR ¹ group or

[0017]

[Chemical 2]

A group (R ¹ and R ² represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or an aryl group which may have a substituent), and n represents a number of 1 or more. Examples of the base structure of such a disperse dye include those of monoazo type, disazo type, anthraquinone type, nitro type, stilbene type, methine type, azamethine type, polymethine type, verinone type, quinophthalone type and naphthoimine type. In particular, monoazo type, disazo type and anthraquinone type are preferably used. And these dye bases may contain heavy metals as needed.

Examples of the alkyl group corresponding to X in the general formula (I) include a lower alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 3 carbon atoms such as a methyl group, an ethyl group and a propyl group, and an aryl group. Is a phenyl group. Hydrogen atoms of these groups -SO ₃ H groups and -COO
Other than H group, for example, halogen atom, nitro group, cyano group,
It may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, particularly an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy group. Specific examples of the alkyl group or aryl group having such a substituent include, for example, a trichloromethyl group, p -Nitrophenyl group and the like.

R ¹ and R ² in the —OR ¹ group, —SR ¹ group, and (Chemical Formula 2) group are a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or an aryl group which may have a substituent.
Examples of the alkyl group and aryl group which may have a substituent corresponding to ¹ and R ² include those exemplified above for X. Therefore, specific examples of the —OR ¹ group include a hydroxyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, 2,2,2.
-Trifluoropropoxy group, pentoxy group, ethoxymethoxy group, β-hydroxyoxyoxy group,
Examples thereof include a phenoxy group, a p-methylphenoxy group and an o-nitrophenoxy group.

Specific examples of the —SR ¹ group include a thiol group, a methylthio group, an ethylthio group and a phenylthio group. Specific examples of the group (Chemical Formula 2) include a monoalkylamino group such as an amino group, a methylamino group and an ethylamino group, a dialkylamino group such as a dimethylamino group, a β-chloroethylamino group and a β-methoxyethyl group. Examples thereof include an amino group and a γ-hydroxypropylamino group.

A mixed cloth made of polyester fibers and polyurethane fibers dyeable at atmospheric pressure is knitted for mixing, woven, and then relaxed, scoured and dyed. It is preferable that the scouring is performed at a temperature of 60 to 98 [deg.] C. and relaxed as much as possible in order to enhance the stretch recovery of the cloth. In the case of fixing the form before dyeing, the presetting may be performed at a temperature of 170 to 200 ° C. by dry heat. In particular, in the case of a fabric such as two-way tricot where curling is a problem, 190 to 90
It is preferable to perform the dry heat preset at a high temperature of 200 ° C.

The dyeing temperature for dyeing the mixed fabric of the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber with the non-reactive disperse dye and the reactive disperse dye is generally preferably 95 ° C. or higher, and the upper limit dyeing temperature is 130. The temperature is up to 0 ° C., and 105 ° C. to 120 ° C. is particularly preferable in order to increase the dye distribution rate to the atmospheric dyeable polyester fiber. Also, the dyeing time is 2
0 to 40 minutes is preferable. Regarding the dyeing conditions other than the dyeing temperature and time, any condition may be used as long as the polyester fiber is usually dyed, and the type of dyeing aid and its use concentration, dyeing pH, dyeing bath ratio, etc. It is appropriately set in consideration of the processing apparatus used and the dyeing method.

The above-mentioned dyeing operation is carried out by a batch method, using a device such as Wins, Jigger, beam dyeing machine, jet dyeing machine,
It can be carried out by any of continuous methods. In addition to the dip dyeing, a printing method can be used. As post-treatment after dyeing, reduction washing with a reducing agent is carried out in order to improve dyeing fastness. Since the fastness performance is almost proportional to the concentration of the non-reactive disperse dye adsorbed on the polyurethane fiber, it is important to reductively decompose and remove the non-reactive disperse dye in the polyurethane fiber. The method described in JP-A-60-162889 is preferable because it can be reduced and decomposed and removed in a short time without embrittlement of the polyurethane fiber. Next, after the reduction cleaning, it may be finished by an ordinary method, but it is preferable to set the final set temperature at 10 ° C. lower than the preset temperature. If necessary, alkali reduction treatment may be carried out before dyeing. When the alkali weight reduction treatment is carried out, it is preferable to carry out the treatment at 100 ° C. or lower in any processing method regardless of the batch method (immersion method) and the continuous method (pad method). When the treatment temperature is 100 ° C. or higher, the physical properties of the polyurethane fiber deteriorate.

The dyed product of the present invention is a dyed product having high color reproducibility, and is also characterized in that there is little variation in color among dyeing batches.

[0026]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The evaluation items in the examples were measured as follows. (1) Color development The surface of the cloth after dyeing and reducing and washing is measured with a spectrophotometer (Mac
The L value was measured by "beth2020". The smaller the L value, the better the color developability. (2) Washing fastness It was evaluated according to JIS L-0884. Comparable,
Good grades were graded 5 and grades were graded one after another (poor grades). (3) Peeling The cloth was stretched about 2 times, and the comparison between the hue density of the polyester fiber and the hue density of the polyurethane fiber was visually judged, and the following grades were given.

Grade 5: There is almost no difference in hue and density between polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber. Grade 3: Hue of polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber,
There is little difference in density. First grade: hue of polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber,
The concentration difference is extremely high.

[0028]

Example 1 ηsp / c = 0.65, TiO 0.4%
Polyethylene terephthalate containing spinning temperature 290 ℃
The spinning speed is 700 with the spin take-up method.
Winding was performed at 0 m / min to obtain a 40d / 36f yarn. This yarn (Resolin Blue 3% owf 12 at 100 ℃
By using "Leuka (registered trademark) B (chlorine resistant type, bright yarn, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)" which is a polyether polyurethane fiber of 40d with a dye exhaustion rate of 86% after dyeing for 0 minutes) A 36-gauge two-way tricot knitted fabric (polyurethane fiber mixing ratio 24%) was produced.

The obtained knitted fabric was relaxed and scoured in a spread form at 90 ° C. for 2 minutes, set at 190 ° C. for 30 seconds in dry heat, and then
Dyeing was performed using a circular dyeing machine under the following dyeing bath and conditions. Dye bath composition Non-reactive disperse dye (dye that can be easily decomposed and removed from polyurethane fiber during reduction washing) Dynicx Carmine UN-SE (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei) 1.7% owf Dianix Blue UN-SE (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei) 1.7% owf Reactive disperse dye Red dye with the following structure 0.5% owf

[0030]

[Chemical 3]

Blue dye of the following structure 0.5% owf

[0032]

[Chemical 4]

Nikkasan Salt RM-340 (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.6 g / L sodium acetate 0.5 g / L acetic acid 0.5 cc / L Dyeing temperature × time: 110 ° C. × 30 minutes Bath ratio 1:30 After the completion of dyeing, the dyeing residual liquid was discharged from the dyeing machine, water was put into the dyeing machine, the temperature was raised to 80 ° C., and the following chemicals were added thereto to adjust the concentration to the following.

Sodium hydrosulfite 2 g / L Caustic soda 2 g / L Sanmor RC-700 (Nika Kagaku Kogyo KK, non-ionic detergent) 1 g / L Dimethyl polysiloxane (molecular weight 10,000, kinematic viscosity 300 cst) 0.3 g / L bath ratio 1:30 The dyed product was reduced and washed with this reducing wash solution at 80 ° C. for 10 minutes, the residual liquid was discharged, and the dyed product was sufficiently rinsed with warm water and water, and then 180 ° C. × 30. Finished with a dry heat set for 2 seconds.

In the obtained dyed product, the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber was dyed with the non-reactive disperse dye and the reactive disperse dye, and the polyurethane fiber was dyed with the reactive disperse dye. The resulting dyed product was evaluated for color developability, fastness to washing, and peeling. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0036]

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 The same knitted fabric as in Example 1 was used, and dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that only the non-reactive disperse dye was dyed. However, the concentration of each non-reactive disperse dye was set to 2.2% owf. In the obtained dyed product, the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fiber was dyed with the non-reactive disperse dye, and the polyurethane fiber was not dyed. (Reduction decomposition residue of non-reactive disperse dye remains).

Table 1 shows the results of similar evaluations of the obtained dyed product.

[0038]

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 The same knitted fabric as in Example 1 was used, and dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the reactive disperse dye alone was dyed. However, the concentration of each reactive disperse dye was set to 2.2% owf. In the obtained dyed product,
The normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber were dyed with a reactive disperse dye.

Table 1 shows the results of similar evaluations of the obtained dyed product. From the results shown in Table 1, the cloth dyed product obtained by the method of the present invention, which is a mixture of the normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and the polyurethane fiber, has good coloring properties and dyeing fastness, and has a high commercial value without eyebrow. It turns out to be a thing.

[0040]

[Table 1]

[0041]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The fabric dyeing product of the present invention, which is a mixture of normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber, is not only excellent in soft hand, stretch elasticity and stretch recovery rate, but also has good colorability and fastness. It is a dyed product with excellent performance and a very high commercial value that is not blinded.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A mixed cloth comprising normal pressure dyeable polyester fibers and polyurethane fibers, which is dyed.
Polyurethane fibers are mainly dyed with a reactive disperse dye, which is a fabric dyeing product in which atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester fibers and polyurethane fibers are mixed.