US20190298011A1 - Gemstone - Google Patents

Gemstone Download PDF

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Publication number
US20190298011A1
US20190298011A1 US16/348,019 US201716348019A US2019298011A1 US 20190298011 A1 US20190298011 A1 US 20190298011A1 US 201716348019 A US201716348019 A US 201716348019A US 2019298011 A1 US2019298011 A1 US 2019298011A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
facets
gemstone
crown
pavilion
angle
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Abandoned
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US16/348,019
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English (en)
Inventor
Michael Bonke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Realization Desal AG
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Realization Desal AG
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Publication date
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Assigned to REALIZATION DESAL AG reassignment REALIZATION DESAL AG ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: BONKE, MICHAEL
Publication of US20190298011A1 publication Critical patent/US20190298011A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a gemstone, in particular a diamond, but also other gemstones, e.g. precious stones or semi-precious stones, or also synthetic gemstones.
  • the prior art discloses gemstones with different cuts.
  • gemstones having a brilliant cut or octagonal cut have become popular.
  • these cuts can be disadvantageous.
  • a main problem found in gemstones, in particular diamonds, if they are incorporated for example in a dial of a wristwatch is the size and the interplay between the individual facets of the stones.
  • a dial fully set with small brilliants can accommodate up to eight hundred individual brilliants which, having an individual diameter of 1 mm or even less, are very small.
  • the reflected light divides up into so many small, individual flashes of light that they can no longer be discerned as sparkle by the viewer since they lie below the visual threshold.
  • an incident light beam at most angles of incidence, is split up into a few hundred small light beams. If this takes place in the case of a stone which has a diameter of just 1 mm, and in which the individual facets are only around 0.1 mm, then the human eye is no longer angle to discern the individual flashes of light as such and sees only diffuse lighting. It is only in the case of an extremely pronounced, punctiform light source that sparkle and dispersion are still discernible.
  • Human powers of perception usually function up to a size of 0.2 mm. This means that two points which are spaced apart from one another by a distance of 0.2 mm are still discerned by the viewer as two separate points. If the distance decreases to 0.1 mm, the viewer discerns the two points merely as a single point.
  • the octagonal cut which is distinguished in that it has only sixteen facets (eight facets in the crown and eight facets in the pavilion) and a table facet, the individual facets of the crown of the gemstone are usually still above the size at which items can be perceived individually. This means that the naked eye of a viewer can make out a structure of the facet arrangement in the gemstone.
  • the octagonal cut also has the disadvantage that breaking up the circular structure into just eight segments is accompanied by a certain loss of light. At each “corner” of the stone, at which the individual facets are located opposite one another at a certain angle, the stone loses light to some extent. In this respect, an octagonal-cut gemstone does not give an optimum light yield.
  • the object is achieved by a gemstone which comprises a crown having a multiplicity of crown facets and a table, a girdle, and a pavilion having a multiplicity of pavilion facets.
  • a crown angle is advantageously between 34.5° and 35.5°, and is preferably 35°, wherein a pavilion angle is between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, and is particularly preferably 40.5°.
  • the angle of the outer crown facets in relation to the gemstone-girdle plane, which runs perpendicularly to a vertical axis of the gemstone or a longitudinal axis of the gemstone is between 34.5° and 35.5°, and is preferably 35°.
  • the angle of the pavilion facets in relation to a horizontal axis of the gemstone is between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, and is particularly preferably 40.5°.
  • the crown angle is 35° and the pavilion angle is 40.5°.
  • the light is conducted within the stone such that the total reflection angle can be utilized correctly and does not work against the light yield of the gemstone.
  • Total reflection takes place when a light beam attempting to exit from an optically denser medium into an optically thinner medium does so at an angle below the total reflection angle. If the light beam is incident on the boundary of the two optical media within the total reflection angle, it is reflected “in total”. This means that zero percent of the light is lost during the operation.
  • the peripheral regions of the gemstones are the sensitive regions in which usually greater losses of light occur than in the case of light which is incident on the inner part of the table facet. The angle arrangement proposed avoids a loss in the light which is incident on the periphery of the gemstone from above. This results in an optimum overall yield of the incident light for the gemstone.
  • the gemstone described in particular on account of its crown angle, also has the advantage of a high level of dispersion.
  • Dispersion is to be understood to mean the separation of the white light into its spectral colors.
  • the term dispersion refers to the different amounts of refraction in accordance with the different refractive indices of the different wavelengths of the light.
  • the gemstone becomes vibrant and a natural coloring of the gemstone takes on secondary importance. This is highly advantageous in particular in the case of gemstones having a “low-level” coloring, because a viewer is therefore not capable of discerning the low-level coloring and thus deems the gemstone to be of great interest.
  • the gemstone proposed has the further advantage that the gemstone presents an esthetically interesting and clearly recognizable light pattern under a kaleidoscope.
  • the crown angle defined according to the invention and of the overall light yields which is optimized as a result, the situation where the light pattern loses its optical effect and does not appear striking is avoided.
  • the result is therefore a clear light pattern which, in the case of most facet arrangements of the gemstones, creates a star shape made up of arrows when the gemstone is viewed from above.
  • the light pattern creates possibly a flower or an arrangement of heart shapes.
  • a kaleidoscope in some cases also referred to as a “Hearts & Arrows” scope, is that in this case the light which is incident on the gemstone from above, in a direction perpendicular to the horizontal axis of the gemstone, is a white, unfiltered light.
  • the “scattered light”, which is incident on the gemstone at an angle of greater than 20° in relation to the vertical axis of the gemstone is color-filtered by the colored inner wall of the scope and creates a striking color (red or blue) in the stone, its luminosity also being reduced as a result of the color filtering. Consequently, the white light, which is incident directly from above, is dominant and is optically clearly distinguished from the more laterally incident light.
  • This separation of strong white light, which is incident vertically on the stone, and a reduced level of colored, laterally incident light results in the visual impression given by the white light being up to ten times stronger than that given by the somewhat more obliquely conducted colored light.
  • the girdle here corresponds to an encircling edge or a separating periphery between the crown and the pavilion in cut gemstones.
  • the crown is the upper part of the gemstone, which is located above the girdle. Accordingly, the pavilion is the lower part of the diamond, which is located beneath the girdle.
  • the table (table facet) is the largest facet of the crown of the gemstone.
  • the crown angle is that angle which, when the gemstone is viewed from this side, is formed between the lateral boundary line of the crown and the girdle plane, said boundary line being formed by an orthogonal projection of a crown facet onto a plane which contains the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the girdle plane is that plane which is arranged parallel to the table and in which the gemstone has the largest cross-sectional extent.
  • the girdle plane is oriented perpendicularly to the longitudinal direction of the gemstone.
  • the pavilion angle is that angle which, when the gemstone is viewed from the side, is formed between the lateral boundary line of the pavilion and the girdle plane, said boundary line being formed by an orthogonal projection of a pavilion facet onto a plane which contains the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the crown of the gemstone advantageously has one or two angle planes.
  • “Angle plane” is to be understood to mean a row of facets which, as seen in the direction from the girdle of the gemstone, that is to say of the outer boundary circle, to the center of the stone, that is to say to the center of the table, have a quite specific angle in relation to the horizontal plane.
  • the sparkle of the gemstone increases as a result of one or two angle planes being provided instead of three angle planes, as is the case for a brilliant-cut gemstone. This advantage is particularly important in the case of small gemstones, since it is predominantly here where the problem arises of the sparkle of the individual facets decreasing on account of their small size.
  • the provision of one or two angle planes gives rise to an esthetically interesting and high-quality light pattern under a kaleidoscope.
  • the vibrancy of the gemstone is optimized in the critical regions of a shallow viewing angle.
  • the gemstone is vibrant and sparkles to a pronounced extent in plan view; in addition, the flashes of red and blue light produced by dispersion of the light in the gemstone are also clearly visible from a shallow viewing angle.
  • This advantage is obvious, in particular, not just in the individual gemstone, but is of quite particular interest when an entire surface is to be set with a large number of smaller gemstones. This is the case, for example, for a pave-set surface of a piece of jewelry or a dial of a timepiece.
  • the table is preferably a regular dodecagon. This means that the gemstone is cut with facets at 12 regular intervals.
  • the 12-increment graduation increases the overall light yield of the gemstone.
  • a combination of a 12-increment graduation and of one or two angle planes in the crown of the gemstone achieves a higher level of sparkle while, at the same time, maintaining the overall light yield.
  • the sum of the crown facets and of the pavilion facets is preferably forty-eight, thirty-six or twenty-four facets. Therefore, the crown facets are reduced in number in comparison with a brilliant-cut gemstone. This helps to increase the sparkle of the gemstone.
  • the reduced number of crown facets, and consequently the reduced number of facets for the gemstone overall results in an optically impressive or striking light pattern under a kaleidoscope.
  • the specific number of facets of the crown provides for the vibrancy of the gemstone to be optimized in the critical regions of a shallow viewing angle.
  • the pavilion facets prefferably comprise lower girdle facets and for the crown facets to comprise upper girdle facets, wherein each of the lower girdle facets is aligned with precisely one of the upper girdle facets.
  • Positioning the lower girdle facets and the upper girdle facets opposite one another avoids the situation where a flash of light is divided into two parts as a result of being incident on a double facet in the stone. The sparkle of the gemstone is therefore increased.
  • the alignment of the upper girdle facets in relation to the lower girdle facets achieves a clear light pattern of the gemstone under a kaleidoscope.
  • a further aspect of the invention relates to a timepiece having at least one gemstone which is arranged, in particular, in a dial/hands compartment.
  • the dial/hands compartment is the compartment, or the accommodating chamber, of the timepiece in which a dial and/or at least one hand of the timepiece are arranged.
  • the gemstone is particularly preferably arranged in the dial.
  • the dial contains preferably more than two hundred gemstones, particularly preferably more than four hundred to eight hundred gemstones. In particular, are the gemstones each have a diameter of smaller than 2 mm, particularly preferably equal to, or smaller than, 1 mm.
  • the abovedescribed gemstone optimizes the optical properties which are important for a gemstone in the dial/hands compartment of the timepiece, that is to say beneath a watchglass of the timepiece.
  • a 12-increment graduation of the facets in the case of a preferred configuration of the gemstone does away with the impression of disharmony in the dial.
  • clear flashes both of the white light and of the split-up spectral colors of the light can be made out in any position, even at relatively shallow viewing angles.
  • the abovedescribed gemstone constitutes a considerable improvement in the effect of the gemstone, in particular of a diamond, within the dial/hands compartment. This applies all the more so since the watchglass, which is positioned over the dial or an inner bezel, does reduce the effect of the light to a certain extent. It is the case that both the light which is incident on the diamonds is reduced by the watchglass and the light which exits from the diamonds again is largely absorbed by the watchglass at shallow exit angles and is reduced by approximately 10% to 30% at steep exit angles.
  • FIG. 1( a )-( d ) show different views of a gemstone according to a first exemplary embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 2( a )-( d ) show different views of a gemstone according to a second exemplary embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 3( a )-( e ) show different views of the gemstone according to a third exemplary embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 4( a )-( d ) show different views of a gemstone according to a fourth exemplary embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 5( a )-( d ) show different views of a gemstone according to a fifth exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 6( a )-( d ) show different views of a gemstone according to a sixth exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • a gemstone 1 according to a first exemplary embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail hereinbelow with reference to FIG. 1 .
  • FIG. 1( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 1( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 1( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1
  • FIG. 1( d ) shows a light pattern of the gemstone 1 seen from above under a kaleidoscope.
  • the gemstone 1 has a crown 2 , a girdle 3 and a pavilion 4 .
  • a crown angle ⁇ of the gemstone 1 is between 34.5° and 35.5°, and is preferably 35°. Furthermore, a pavilion angle ⁇ of the gemstone 1 is between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, and is particularly preferably 40.5°. In particular, the crown angle ⁇ is 35° and the pavilion angle ⁇ is 40.5°.
  • the crown 2 comprises a table 10 and a multiplicity of crown facets 11 , 12 , wherein the pavilion 4 has a multiplicity of pavilion facets 13 , 14 .
  • the crown facets 11 , 12 comprise first crown facets 11 and second crown facets (upper girdle facets) 12 .
  • the pavilion facets 13 , 14 comprise first pavilion facets (lower girdle facets) 13 and second pavilion facets 14 .
  • the table 10 is preferably designed in the form of a regular dodecagon.
  • the first crown facets 11 each have a broad side adjoining the table 10 , wherein the second crown facets 12 extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 and have a broad side adjoining the girdle 3 .
  • the first crown facets 11 are in the shape of a pentagon and the second crown facets 12 are in the shape of a triangle.
  • the first pavilion facets 13 are in the shape of a triangle and the second pavilion facets 12 are in the shape of a pentagon.
  • this embodiment of the gemstone 1 has twelve such first crown facets 11 and twelve such second crown facets 12 . Therefore, the gemstone 1 has a total of twenty-four crown facets.
  • the first pavilion facets 13 each have a broad side adjoining the table 10 , wherein the second pavilion facets 14 extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • this embodiment of the gemstone 1 has twelve such first pavilion facets 13 and twelve such second pavilion facets 14 . Therefore, the gemstone 1 has a total of twenty-four pavilion facets.
  • the overall number of facets of the gemstone 1 is 49 facets (48 crown and pavilion facets plus the table 10 ).
  • the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 has two angle planes, wherein the one angle plane comprises the first crown facets 12 and the other angle plane comprises the second crown facets 13 .
  • the pavilion 3 has two angle planes, wherein the one angle plane comprises the first pavilion facets 13 and the other angle plane comprises the second pavilion facets 14 .
  • the pavilion 2 tapers to a culet 5 .
  • the culet 5 is formed by the second pavilion facets 14 .
  • Each of the second crown facets 12 is advantageously aligned with precisely one first pavilion facet 13 .
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a gemstone 1 according to a second exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 2( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 2( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1 .
  • the second exemplary embodiment differs from the first exemplary embodiment basically in that the first crown facets 11 each have a broad side adjoining the table 10 and extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • the second crown facets 12 each have a broad side adjoining the girdle 3 .
  • first crown facets 11 are each in the shape of a triangle and the second crown facets 12 are in the shape of a pentagon.
  • FIG. 2( d ) shows a light pattern of the gemstone 1 as seen from above, when the gemstone 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates a gemstone 1 according to a third exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 3( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 3( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1 .
  • the first crown facets 11 each have a broad side adjoining the table 10 and extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 , as in the second exemplary embodiment.
  • the second crown facets 12 each have a broad side adjoining the girdle 3 and extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • both the first crown facets 11 and the second crown facets 12 extend from the table 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • the first crown facets 11 and the second crown facets 12 are of triangular design.
  • the crown facets 11 , 12 form just a single angle plane in the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 , since all the crown facets 11 , 12 extend from the girdle 3 to the table 10 . This means that all the crown facets 11 , 12 are positioned at the same angle, which is equal to the crown angle.
  • FIGS. 3( d ) and ( e ) show light patterns of the gemstone 1 as seen from above and beneath under a kaleidoscope.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates a gemstone 1 according to a fourth exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 4( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 4( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1 .
  • the crown 2 just has a multiplicity of first crown facets 11 .
  • the first crown facets 11 are each designed in the form of a quadrilateral and adjoin the table 10 and the girdle 2 .
  • the gemstone 1 therefore has just a single angle plane in the crown 2 .
  • the gemstone 1 has twelve crown facets, or twelve first crown facets 11 , and twenty-four pavilion facets 13 , 14 .
  • the overall number of facets of the gemstone 1 is 37 facets (36 crown and pavilion facets plus the table 10 ).
  • Each of the first crown facets 11 is advantageously positioned opposite a first pavilion facet 13 .
  • FIG. 4( d ) shows a light pattern of the gemstone 1 as seen from above when the gemstone 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope.
  • FIG. 5 shows a gemstone 1 according to a fifth exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 5( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 5( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1 .
  • the difference between the gemstone 1 according to the fifth exemplary embodiment and the gemstone 1 according to the fourth exemplary embodiment is that the first crown facets 11 in the fifth exemplary embodiment are offset in the circumferential direction, or in the direction of the girdle 3 , in relation to the first pavilion facets 13 .
  • the gemstone 1 of FIG. 5 has a single angle plane in the crown 2 .
  • FIG. 5( d ) shows the resulting light pattern of the gemstone 1 as seen from above when the gemstone 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope.
  • FIG. 6 illustrates a gemstone 1 according to a sixth exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
  • the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 corresponds in terms of construction to the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 according to the fourth exemplary embodiment.
  • FIG. 6( a ) shows a plan view
  • FIG. 6( b ) shows a side view
  • FIG. 6( c ) shows a bottom view, of the gemstone 1 .
  • the pavilion 4 has just a single angle plane, which comprises a multiplicity of first pavilion facets 13 .
  • the pavilion 4 has twelve pavilion facets, or twelve first pavilion facets.
  • the first pavilion facets 13 are each configured in the form of a triangle and extend from the culet 5 to the girdle 3 .
  • the first pavilion facets 13 here have a broad side adjoining the girdle 3 .
  • the culet 5 is formed by the first pavilion facets 13 .
  • the overall number of the facets of the gemstone 1 is 25 facets (24 crown and pavilion facets plus the table 10 ).
  • FIG. 6( d ) shows the resulting light pattern of the gemstone 1 as seen from above when the gemstone 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope.
  • the abovedescribed gemstones 1 reflect back into the viewer's eye a very high percentage of the light which is incident on them. It is also the case that the highest possible fraction of incident white light dispersed into the spectral colors can be reflected into the viewer's eye by the gemstones 1 . Furthermore, a large fraction of the incident light is reflected as individual flashes of light in the case of the gemstones 1 . This means that the gemstones 1 do not convert focused light into scattered, diffuse light. Furthermore, the gemstones 1 are designed such that they reflect the incident light to the viewer such that, when viewed from pretty much all positions (even at shallow angles), the gemstones are highly luminescent, exhibit dispersion and sparkle. Moreover, the gemstone 1 are optimized for use in a timepiece.
  • the gemstones 1 as far as their sparkle and dispersion behavior are concerned, have fewer, but for all that more pronounced, flashes of light, wherein the gemstones 1 sparkle, and emit dispersion clusters, even at flat viewing angles. Furthermore, the gemstones 1 according to the exemplary embodiments explained above give a harmonious impression which does not dominate the design. Finally, the gemstones 1 are kaleidoscope-compatible. This means that the gemstones 1 produce an esthetically pleasing and clearly evident light symbol when the gemstones 1 are viewed under a kaleidoscope.

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US16/348,019 2016-11-11 2017-07-11 Gemstone Abandoned US20190298011A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102016222189.2A DE102016222189A1 (de) 2016-11-11 2016-11-11 Schmuckstein
DE102016222189.2 2016-11-11
PCT/EP2017/078417 WO2018087065A1 (de) 2016-11-11 2017-11-07 Schmuckstein

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US20190298011A1 true US20190298011A1 (en) 2019-10-03

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US16/348,019 Abandoned US20190298011A1 (en) 2016-11-11 2017-07-11 Gemstone

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US (1) US20190298011A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3537919B1 (de)
DE (1) DE102016222189A1 (de)
WO (1) WO2018087065A1 (de)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20190261747A1 (en) * 2018-02-23 2019-08-29 Jack Reiss Llc Cutting method for a diamond with low depth percentage and resultant cut diamond
USD883134S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-05 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
USD883847S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-12 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
USD901324S1 (en) * 2015-04-22 2020-11-10 Shenzhen Perfect Love Diamond Co., Ltd. Diamond with eighty-one facets
USD934095S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-10-26 Harry Winston Sa Dial

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AT393597B (de) * 1990-04-10 1991-11-11 Swarovski & Co Zur herstellung von kesselketten geeigneter schmuckstein
US6422039B2 (en) * 2000-07-20 2002-07-23 D. Swarovski & Co. Gem
US9486043B2 (en) * 2007-05-04 2016-11-08 Worldwide Diamond Trademarks Ltd. Hexagon shaped diamond which displays hearts and arrows pattern
AT12644U1 (de) * 2011-03-07 2012-09-15 Swarovski D Kg Brilliantschliff
CN103564998B (zh) * 2013-11-11 2015-11-11 张坤芝 内部呈现十二箭结构的85刻面的钻石
US9226554B2 (en) * 2014-05-12 2016-01-05 Yoshihiko Kodama Circular cut diamond
DE102015207049A1 (de) * 2015-04-17 2016-10-20 Levitation AG Uhrglas mit mindestens einem Schmuckstein

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD901324S1 (en) * 2015-04-22 2020-11-10 Shenzhen Perfect Love Diamond Co., Ltd. Diamond with eighty-one facets
USD883134S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-05 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
USD883847S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-12 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
US20190261747A1 (en) * 2018-02-23 2019-08-29 Jack Reiss Llc Cutting method for a diamond with low depth percentage and resultant cut diamond
USD934095S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-10-26 Harry Winston Sa Dial
USD934094S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-10-26 Harry Winston Sa Dial
USD935338S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-11-09 Harry Winston Sa Dial
USD935928S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2021-11-16 Harry Winston Sa Dial
USD942297S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2022-02-01 Harry Winston Sa Dial
USD946445S1 (en) * 2020-02-07 2022-03-22 Harry Winston Sa Dial

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EP3537919B1 (de) 2022-04-27
DE102016222189A1 (de) 2018-05-17
EP3537919A1 (de) 2019-09-18
WO2018087065A1 (de) 2018-05-17

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