US20170340064A1 - Method for manufacturing footwear, footwear produced using said method, and machine for manufacturing footwear - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing footwear, footwear produced using said method, and machine for manufacturing footwear Download PDF

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Publication number
US20170340064A1
US20170340064A1 US15/540,926 US201515540926A US2017340064A1 US 20170340064 A1 US20170340064 A1 US 20170340064A1 US 201515540926 A US201515540926 A US 201515540926A US 2017340064 A1 US2017340064 A1 US 2017340064A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
manufacturing
last
hot
pressing
shell
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Abandoned
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US15/540,926
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English (en)
Inventor
Béatrice BOUCHER
Gérard Gautier
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Salomon SAS
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Salomon SAS
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Assigned to SALOMON S.A.S. reassignment SALOMON S.A.S. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: BOUCHER, Béatrice, GAUTIER, Gérard
Publication of US20170340064A1 publication Critical patent/US20170340064A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0255—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by gluing or thermo bonding
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0215—Plastics or artificial leather
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/024—Different layers of the same material
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/026—Laminated layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04—Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042—Uppers made of one piece
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B5/00—Footwear for sporting purposes
    • A43B5/06—Running shoes; Track shoes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D25/00—Devices for gluing shoe parts
    • A43D25/20—Arrangements for activating or for accelerating setting of adhesives, e.g. by using heat
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00—Lasts
    • A43D3/02—Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29D—PRODUCING PARTICULAR ARTICLES FROM PLASTICS OR FROM SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE
    • B29D35/00—Producing footwear
    • B29D35/0054—Producing footwear by compression moulding, vulcanising or the like; Apparatus therefor
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29D—PRODUCING PARTICULAR ARTICLES FROM PLASTICS OR FROM SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE
    • B29D35/00—Producing footwear
    • B29D35/12—Producing parts thereof, e.g. soles, heels, uppers, by a moulding technique
    • B29D35/126—Uppers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for manufacturing an article of footwear comprising synthetic materials.
  • the invention also relates to an article of footwear obtained by the method, and to a machine for manufacturing the article of footwear.
  • Articles of footwear are conventionally made by combining an upper and a sole assembly.
  • the upper generally includes a number of parts, such as a lateral quarter, a medial quarter, a vamp, a tongue, a heel, a rear counter, a protective toe-cap, a tightening device including keepers and a lace, an inner lining, and may even have additional parts. Moreover, some of these parts may include a plurality of portions.
  • the main problem with a conventional shoe is in assembling and turning parts that are cut and assembled flat into a three-dimensional shape.
  • the upper is associated with a lasting sole to demarcate a footwear element.
  • the upper is glued to the lasting sole using an adhesive layer.
  • the lasting sole also referred to as the lasting board, is relatively rigid to withstand the assembly process.
  • the gluing operation is carried out by pulling the upper and pressing it flat onto the lasting board, with a last being inserted in the upper. This is known as the traditional shoe lasting assembly. This technique makes it possible to exert sufficient pressure while heating the adhesive in order to obtain the footwear element.
  • a second method also known, involves obtaining the footwear element by stitching the upper to the lasting board. This is referred to as the Strobel assembly.
  • the lasting board in this case is a flexible stitchable sole, referred to as the Strobel sole.
  • the lasting board is integral with the sole assembly.
  • the sole assembly further comprises external parts, such as one or more damping layers and a wear layer adapted to contact the ground, which are generally attached using an adhesive to the lasted board and upper.
  • the sole assembly further comprises one or more inner layers arranged in the footwear element to fulfill protective functions in terms of hygiene, shock-absorption, foot arch support, or the like.
  • a conventional shoe has certain disadvantages.
  • the shoe uses a large number of parts, typically between forty and sixty.
  • Such a large number of shoe-forming parts increases the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to carry out such operations. It usually takes forty minutes to one hour and thirty minutes to make a shoe. It can be said that shoes manufactured using conventional techniques are complicated, both by the number of their constituent parts and the number of manufacturing operations.
  • a further disadvantage is due to the presence of free spaces between the foot and the shoe. This means that the foot is not in contact with the upper or the sole assembly in certain locations. This is especially true in the area of certain portions of the junction between the upper and the lasting board. As a result, undesired displacements occur sometimes between the foot and the shoe, which can cause discomfort or injuries.
  • a conventional shoe does not always ensure adequate support and/or tightening of the foot, or does not always provide satisfactory comfort for the foot. Moreover, such conventional shoe does not systematically conform to all foot deformations.
  • the present invention provides a new footwear construction method, in which the article of footwear comprises a first shell extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a base to an upper end, the first shell comprising yarns linked to one another mechanically, at least a portion of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the first shell, and the shape of the first shell is set by the melting of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the first shell can be shaped to have a geometry that is very similar to that of a foot, and thereby closely conforms to the shape of the foot in a very uniform fashion. This means that the foot is in contact with, or at least very close to, the first shell. This results in an evenly distributed support of the foot, with very few or no undesired displacements between the foot and the first shell.
  • a resulting advantage is increased comfort of the article of footwear according to the new construction method, compared to a conventional shoe.
  • the first shell has structural continuity, in the sense that its inner surface and/or outer surface are substantially uniform. Physical properties of the first shell, such as bending, for example, can vary depending on zones of the shell. This results in less discomfort for the user.
  • the synthesis of the foregoing shows that the first shell supports the foot and provides adequate comfort therefor. Furthermore, the first shell is capable of conforming to the foot deformations. This enables the article of footwear to fit comfortably in any situation, be it a static or a dynamic situation.
  • a further consequence of the new construction method is the reduced number of parts required to manufacture the article of footwear, although the latter can be provided with a few additional parts.
  • the first shell in itself is a minimalist assembly compared to a conventional footwear element.
  • the first shell of the new construction method is a unitary element which, by itself, replaces at least the lateral and medial quarters, a vamp, a tongue, a rear counter, a lasting board, or even more parts.
  • the new construction method significantly reduces the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to carry them out.
  • the resulting advantage is that the article of footwear is much simpler, in any sense, than a conventional shoe.
  • the structural simplicity of the new construction method does not reduce the number of technical functions performed by the article of footwear, compared to a conventional shoe. Paradoxically, it can even be said that the structural simplicity is a source of technical improvements in terms of quality and quantity.
  • the new construction method is therefore advantageous and promising.
  • the invention generally further improves the manufacture of an article of footwear comprising at least one shell, in which the shape of the at least one shell is set by external heating.
  • the invention further improves quality, in the sense that manufacturing defects are substantially or completely avoided.
  • the invention makes the manufacturing process even simpler, faster and more economical.
  • the invention provides a method for manufacturing an article of footwear that comprises at least one shell, the shape of which is set by external heating, the manufacturing method comprising a reference step in which a first shell is positioned on a last, the first shell comprising at least one at least partially hot-melt or thermoformable material, the last extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a base to a top.
  • the manufacturing method according to the invention comprises at least one manufacturing step subsequent to the reference step, the manufacturing step comprising at least one operation of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the first shell arranged on the last.
  • the first shell comprises yarns linked to one another mechanically.
  • the first shell is hot-pressed as it is positioned on the last. This causes a change of state and/or adhesion of the hot-melt or thermoformable material(s) at the same time as the hot-pressing of at least a portion of the first shell.
  • This portion retains the geometry of the pressed portion of the last, or of the entire last in the case in which hot-pressing is applied everywhere.
  • the article of footwear acquires its final geometric appearance directly during hot-pressing.
  • the resulting advantages include simplicity and manufacturing speed, as well as low cost of the article.
  • the invention provides a machine for implementing the method mentioned above. More specifically, the invention provides a machine for manufacturing an article of footwear, the machine comprising at least one manufacturing station arranged to perform at least one manufacturing operation on a last, the last extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a base to a top.
  • the machine according to the invention includes a step of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the last.
  • the machine implements the aforementioned method in the sense that the first shell positioned on the last is hot-pressed during pressure on the last.
  • this causes a change of state and/or adhesion of at least a portion of the first shell at the same time as pressure is applied.
  • This portion retains the geometry of the pressed portion of the last, or even of the entire last, in the case in which hot-pressing is applied everywhere.
  • the machine provides the article of footwear with its final geometric appearance directly during hot-pressing.
  • the resulting advantages once again include simplicity and manufacturing speed, as well as low cost of the article.
  • the manufacturing method and the machine for implementing such method improve the manufacture of an article of footwear.
  • FIG. 1 is a perspective front view of an article of footwear, obtained by the manufacturing method according to the invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a perspective schematic view of a preform used for making a first shell and a second shell of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 3 is a perspective front view of a reinforcement intended to be integrated into the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic view related to the constitution of a shell of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 5 is another schematic view related to the constitution of a shell of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 6 is yet another schematic view related to the constitution of a shell of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 7 is a side view related to the manufacture of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 8 is a perspective view related to the manufacture of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 9 is another perspective view related to the manufacture of the article of footwear of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 10 is a schematic top view of a manufacturing station of a machine for implementing the method according to the invention, the station being arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the rear end of a last, and an operation of hot-pressing the front end of the last;
  • FIG. 11 is a schematic view of one side of the station according to FIG. 10 ;
  • FIG. 12 is a schematic view of another side of the station according to FIG. 10 ;
  • FIG. 13 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 11 , in a case in which no pressure is exerted on the last;
  • FIG. 14 is similar to FIG. 13 , in a case in which pressure is exerted on the last;
  • FIG. 15 is a schematic side view of another manufacturing station of the machine, the station being arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing a lateral side of the last, and an operation of hot-pressing a medial side of the last;
  • FIG. 16 is a schematic view of another side of the station according to FIG. 15 ;
  • FIG. 17 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 15 , in a case in which no pressure is exerted on the form;
  • FIG. 18 is similar to FIG. 17 , in a case in which pressure is exerted on the last;
  • FIG. 19 is a schematic top view of another manufacturing station of the machine, the station being arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the base of the last, and an operation of hot-pressing the top of the last;
  • FIG. 20 is a schematic view of one side of the station according to FIG. 19 ;
  • FIG. 21 is a schematic view of another side of the station according to FIG. 19 ;
  • FIG. 22 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 20 , in a case in which no pressure is exerted on the last;
  • FIG. 23 is similar to FIG. 22 , in a case in which pressure is exerted on the last;
  • FIG. 24 is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of a head provided to exert the hot-pressing, the head having an elastically deformable portion;
  • FIG. 25 is an external view of the head of FIG. 24 , from the side of an active surface
  • FIG. 26 is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of another head provided to exert the hot-pressing, the head here also having an elastically deformable portion;
  • FIG. 27 is an external view of the head of FIG. 26 , from the side of an active surface
  • FIG. 28 is a top view of a machine for an embodiment according to which the distribution of the manufacturing stations is horizontal;
  • FIG. 29 is a view of one side of the machine according to the embodiment of FIG. 28 ;
  • FIG. 30 is a side view of a machine according to one of claims 16 to 27 , for an embodiment according to which the distribution of the manufacturing stations is vertical.
  • the article of footwear is non-limitingly adapted for walking or running on flat or mountainous terrain.
  • other fields of application are possible, such as ball-playing sports, racquet sports, or the like.
  • an article of footwear 1 is provided to receive the foot of a user.
  • the article of footwear 1 will be considered as a shoe in the following description although, as will be shown in detail, its structure is completely unusual.
  • the shoe 1 extends lengthwise along a longitudinal direction L, between a rear end, or heel 4 , and a front end, or tip 5 , and widthwise along a transverse direction W, between a lateral side 6 and a medial side 7 .
  • the shoe 1 comprises a lower portion 10 , provided to surround the foot, and includes no upper portion.
  • a shoe may be envisioned to include both a lower portion and an upper portion, the latter being provided to surround the ankle and possibly the lower leg.
  • the shoe 1 extends heightwise from a base 12 to an upper end 13 , that is to say, up to the free end of the lower portion 10 .
  • the base is a subdivision of the shoe, on which the foot takes support.
  • the shoe 1 is structured to allow good foot rolling movement during walking, transmission of sensory information, as well as forces when taking supports or jump landing. Therefore, the shoe 1 , or article of footwear, is relatively flexible.
  • the shoe 1 comprises a first shell 21 extending lengthwise along the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 24 to a front end 25 , widthwise along the transverse direction W, between a lateral side 26 and a medial side 27 , and heightwise from a base 28 to an upper end 29 .
  • This enables the first shell to surround and hold the foot of the user.
  • the first shell for example includes yarns linked to one another mechanically. In a non-limiting fashion, at least a portion of the yarns comprises at least one hot-melt filament, as described more clearly below.
  • the first shell may also be made, not with yarns, but with any other material, the important thing being that it comprises a hot-melt material and/or a thermoformable material.
  • the first shell 21 provides the shape of the shoe 1 .
  • the rear end 24 , the front end 25 , the lateral side 26 , the medial side 27 , the base 28 and the upper end 29 of the first shell demarcate the rear end 4 , the front end 5 , the lateral side 6 , the medial side 7 , the base 12 and the upper end 13 , respectively, of the article of footwear or shoe 1 .
  • the minimalist structure used for the shell 21 ensures simplicity, lightness and other advantages, as described below.
  • the shoe 1 also comprises a second shell 31 extending lengthwise along the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 34 to a front end 35 , widthwise along the transverse direction W, between a lateral side 36 and a medial side 37 , and heightwise from a base 38 to an upper end 39 .
  • the second shell 31 also covers the foot, as does the first shell 21 .
  • the second shell 31 is arranged outside of the first shell 21 and, thereby, indirectly covers the foot.
  • the final shape of the shoe 1 is provided by both the first shell 21 and the second shell 31 . The advantage of using two shells will be more apparent below.
  • the second shell 31 non-limitingly comprises yarns linked to one another mechanically.
  • at least a portion of the yarns comprises at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the second shell may also be made, not with yarns, but with any other material, the important thing being that it comprises a hot-melt material and/or a thermoformable material.
  • the second shell 31 also provides the shape to the shoe 1 .
  • the rear end 34 , the front end 35 , the lateral side 36 , the medial side 37 , the base 38 and the upper end 39 of the second shell 31 also demarcate the rear end 4 , the front end 5 , the lateral side 6 , the medial side 7 , the base 12 and the upper end 13 , respectively, of the article of footwear or shoe 1 .
  • the minimalist structure used for the shell 31 ensures simplicity, lightness, and a number of other advantages, as described below.
  • each shell 21 , 31 is obtained by manufacturing a sleeve 41 , that is to say, a flexible tube made, for example, of yarns linked to one another mechanically.
  • the sleeve 41 is a preform for making the article 1 .
  • the sleeve 41 makes it possible to obtain both the first shell 21 and the second shell 31 .
  • the sleeve 41 extends lengthwise from a first end 42 to a second end 43 .
  • the first end 42 is closed by any technique known to one with ordinary skill in the art, such as stitching after folding, the addition of an end piece made of yarns linked to one another mechanically, or any equivalent.
  • the second end 43 is merely an opening.
  • the sleeve 41 makes it possible to manufacture the shells 21 , 31 in one piece.
  • the first shell 21 and second shell 31 are coextensive. This simplifies manufacture by reducing the number of parts and the time required for implementation.
  • the article of footwear 1 can include a reinforcement 51 .
  • the reinforcement is fittingly associated with the shells 21 , 31 at the time of manufacture of the shoe 1 , in order to provide the latter with specific properties.
  • the reinforcement 51 is an element extending lengthwise from a rear end 54 to a front end 55 , widthwise between a lateral side 56 and a medial side 57 , and heightwise from a base 58 to an upper end 59 .
  • the reinforcement 51 has a length and a width similar to the lengths and widths of the shells 21 , 31 . More specifically, the reinforcement 51 extends, in relation to the first shell 21 , lengthwise from the rear end 24 to the front end 25 , widthwise between the lateral side 26 and the medial side 27 , and heightwise from the base 28 to the upper end 29 .
  • this makes it possible to reinforce the first shell 21 , and therefore the article of footwear 1 , particularly in the area of the base 12 and at the periphery of the base. However, for this type of shoe, the reinforcement may be omitted.
  • the reinforcement 51 non-essentially carries a tightening device 61 , visible in FIG. 1 .
  • the tightening device 61 includes keepers 62 located in the area of the upper end 59 , as well as a lace 63 and a blocking device 64 , known to one with ordinary skill in the art. It is therefore possible to tighten or loosen the reinforcement 51 and, thereby, to tighten or loosen the shoe 1 , as is more apparent below.
  • the yarns are provided to be associated with one another using any suitable textile technique, such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or the like.
  • any suitable textile technique such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or the like.
  • knitting it is possible to use a single- or double-knit circular knitting machine, a cylinder knitting machine, or a flat knitting machine.
  • Two knitting zones may be joined to one another using the Intarsia knitting technique or embroidery.
  • Various decorative patterns can be obtained directly when knitting with the Intarsia method, embroidery, the Jacquard knitting technique, or the like.
  • FIG. 4 shows conventional weaving with first yarns 65 oriented along a first direction, second yarns 66 oriented along a second direction, the first 65 and second 66 yarns intersecting to form a flexible mesh.
  • FIG. 5 shows knitting with three yarns 67 , 68 , 69 arranged in interpenetrating loops. However, a number of other arrangements are possible.
  • the sleeve 41 is manufactured, for example, with a flat knitting machine, which makes it possible to vary the cross section, that is to say, the diameter of the sleeve, to make shape variations for the heel, to create opening for passage of the laces, to vary the thickness of the wall of the sleeve, or in particular to vary the tightening of the loops.
  • the flat knitting machine provides a wide range of adjustment possibilities, and it is adapted to make sleeves of all sizes, whether in diameter or in length. As such, the flat knitting machine is more practical than the circular knitting machine. Indeed, the circular knitting machine works on a reduced range in the area of the sleeve diameter.
  • a yarn is next defined in the context of the invention.
  • the yarn may be a monofilament obtained, for example, by extruding a hot-melt synthetic material, such as polyamide, polyurethane, polyethylene, or any equivalent or similar material.
  • a hot-melt synthetic material such as polyamide, polyurethane, polyethylene, or any equivalent or similar material.
  • the production of a filament is continuous, in a way comparable to silk filament produced by a spider.
  • the filament may be mono-component or mono-material, in the sense that its transverse cross section is uniform.
  • the filament may also be multi-component, e.g., bi-component.
  • a transverse cross section of a filament shows a core comprised of a first material and a peripheral shell surrounding the core, such shell being comprised of a second material.
  • Each material can be hot-melt, or only one material can be hot-melt. If both materials are hot-melt, their melting temperatures are different.
  • the yarn may be multi-filament.
  • it is obtained by associating a plurality of filaments.
  • Such an association is shown using the diagram of FIG. 6 .
  • all of the filaments 70 are of the same type, in the sense that each has the same melting point.
  • combinations of filaments of various types can be provided, some of which may be meltable and others may not, or may have various melting points.
  • the filaments are associated with one another by any known technique.
  • the yarn can be obtained in the form of a fiber mesh.
  • a fiber is a filament of limited length.
  • the fibers are associated in tight contact to form the mesh, by any known technique, and especially by twisting. Retaining the fibers to one another is traditionally done by friction, especially with natural fibers such as cotton. However, for the invention, retaining the fibers to one another occurs either by friction or by a combination of friction and melt-adhesion, or yet entirely by adhesion, because the invention uses hot-melt materials.
  • the sleeve 41 is slipped onto an element 73 , referred to as a last, shaped to emulate the shape of the foot of a user. Specifically, the last extends lengthwise from a rear end 74 to a front end 75 , widthwise between a lateral side 76 and a medial side 77 , and heightwise from a base 78 to a top 79 .
  • the sleeve is applied to the last 73 in the manner of a sock on a foot.
  • the sleeve 41 conforms to the shape of the last 73 due to its elasticity, which is due to its constitution.
  • the reinforcement 51 is fitted on the subdivision of the sleeve 41 that becomes the first shell 21 .
  • a reinforcing structure 51 is positioned on the last.
  • the subdivision of the sleeve 41 that becomes the second shell 31 is folded over the reinforcement 51 , thereby covering the latter and the subdivision assigned to the first shell. This is sufficient to form the subassembly of the shoe 1 that envelopes the foot, a subassembly that ultimately includes the first shell 21 , the reinforcement 51 , and the second shell 31 .
  • the article of footwear 1 or shoe, includes an outer sole assembly 81 .
  • This outer sole assembly is adapted to take support on the ground and, therefore, is structured to resist wear by friction and also to damp impacts. It thus includes a wear layer 82 and a damping layer 83 , for example.
  • the shoe according to the invention is well suited, for example, for a long-distance runner.
  • the boundary between the first shell 21 and second shell 31 has a fold 84 demarcating a foot insertion opening 85 .
  • the periphery of the foot insertion opening 85 is therefore demarcated simply by folding the two shells 21 , 31 on one another. This means that this periphery has no stitch or attached element and, therefore, that the shoe 1 does not cause discomfort to the user, including in the area of the opening 85 .
  • the article of footwear 1 presented above is only one exemplary embodiment among a number of possibilities. However, this example is useful to better understand the manufacturing method and the machine for implementing the same, as explained below.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a reference step in which a first shell 21 is positioned on a last 73 , the first shell 21 comprising at least one at least partially hot-melt and thermoformable material, the last 73 extending lengthwise from a rear end 74 to a front end 75 , widthwise between a lateral side 76 and a medial side 77 , and heightwise from a base 78 to a top 79 .
  • the manufacturing method comprises at least one manufacturing step subsequent to the reference step, the manufacturing step comprising at least one operation of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the first shell 21 arranged on the last 73 .
  • the reference step is that which has been explained above in the description of the article footwear. Each manufacturing step is presented below.
  • the first shell 21 non-limitingly comprises yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 linked to one another mechanically.
  • a second shell 31 is positioned on the last 73 , the second shell 31 comprising at least one at least partially hot-melt or thermoformable material, and that, in the manufacturing step, the hot-pressing operation is performed on at least a portion of the surface of the second shell 31 arranged on the last.
  • the second shell 31 non-limitingly comprises yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 linked to one another mechanically.
  • the first shell 21 and second shell 31 are simultaneously subject to hot-pressing, as both are positioned on the last 73 .
  • the manufacture of the article of footwear is simpler and faster than if the shells were pressed separately.
  • FIGS. 10-27 are schematic views for a detailed understanding of the manufacturing steps.
  • a machine 91 , 92 used for the manufacture of an article of footwear 1 according to the invention, comprises at least one manufacturing station adapted to carry out at least one manufacturing operation on a last 73 , the last extending lengthwise from a rear end 74 to a front end 75 , widthwise between a lateral side 76 and a medial side 77 , and heightwise from a base 78 to a top 79 .
  • the manufacturing operation includes a step of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the last, or at least a portion of a shell positioned on the last. It should be understood here that it is possible to operate the machine in idle mode, that is to say, in the absence of a shell positioned on the last.
  • one or more shells are arranged on the last and thus subject to hot-pressing.
  • the hot-pressing causes a more or less substantial melting of the yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 involved in forming the shells 21 , 31 .
  • the article of footwear retains the appearance imparted by the last. In other words, the article of footwear 1 has its final dimensions, which enable it to receive a foot.
  • the manufacturing method according to the invention is such that, in the manufacturing step, the hot-pressing causes a change of state and/or adhesion of some or all of the yarns of a shell.
  • the manufacturing method can be implemented also in cases in which one or more shells are devoid of hot-melt yarns, or in cases in which they comprise hot-melt yarns only in certain zones.
  • At least one manufacturing step comprises two operations of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the last 73 .
  • two operations of hot-pressing at least a portion of the surface of the last 73 are performed simultaneously.
  • operations are provided to be performed to oppose the pressures to one another. This preserves the last 73 from constraints that might space it away from a desired reference position, because the resultant of the pressures is low, or zero. This actually balances the forces applied to the last. This contributes to improved reliability of the machine.
  • At least one manufacturing step comprises at least one operation of holding the last.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station 95 arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the rear end 74 of the last 73 , and an operation of hot-pressing the front end 75 and top 79 of the last.
  • this characteristic also applies to any machine embodiment, as that designated by the reference numeral 92 , which is described below.
  • the manufacturing method includes a manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the rear end 74 of the last, as well as an operation of hot-pressing the front end 75 and top 79 of the last 73 .
  • the first shell 21 , the reinforcing structure 51 and the second shell 31 were positioned beforehand on the last 73 , they are ultimately affixed to one another, in the areas of the rear end 4 , front end 5 , and upper end 13 of the article of footwear, by the melting of the yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 , as has been shown above.
  • the affixing of the shells to one another, or of the reinforcement to one or all of the shells, can also be carried out using an adhesive.
  • the manufacturing station 95 is arranged to perform an operation of holding the base 78 of the last 73 .
  • the manufacturing method comprises an operation of holding the base 78 of the last 73 .
  • the holding is carried out at least partially during hot-pressing of the ends 74 , 75 and top 79 . This stabilizes the position of the last during application of the pressures.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station 96 arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the lateral side 76 of the last 73 , and an operation of hot-pressing the medial side 77 of the last.
  • the manufacturing method includes a manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the lateral side 76 of the last 73 , and an operation of hot-pressing the medial side 77 of the last 73 . It is further considered that the first shell 21 , the reinforcing structure 51 and the second shell 31 were positioned beforehand on the last 73 .
  • first shell 21 , reinforcing structure 51 and second shell 31 are ultimately affixed to one another, in the areas of the lateral side 6 and the medial side 7 of the article of footwear, also by the melting of the yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 .
  • the affixing of the shells to one another, or of the reinforcement to one or all of the shells can also be carried out using an adhesive.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the base 78 of the last 73 , and an operation of holding the top 79 the last.
  • the manufacturing method includes a manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the base 78 of the last 73 , and an operation of holding the top 79 of the last 73 . It is again considered that the first shell 21 , the reinforcing structure 51 and the second shell 31 were positioned beforehand on the last 73 .
  • first shell 21 , reinforcing structure 51 and second shell 31 are ultimately affixed to one another, in the area of the base 12 of the article of footwear, by the melting of the yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 .
  • the affixing of the shells to one another, or of the reinforcement to one or all of the shells can also be carried out using an adhesive.
  • the machine 91 comprises a first manufacturing station 95 , arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the rear end 74 of the last 73 , and an operation of hot-pressing the front end 75 and top 79 of the last, the machine comprises a second manufacturing station 96 , arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the lateral side 76 of the last and an operation of hot-pressing the medial side 77 of the last, and the machine comprises a third manufacturing station 97 , arranged to perform an operation of hot-pressing the base 78 of the last, and an operation of holding the top 79 of the last.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a first manufacturing step, the first manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the rear end 74 of the last 73 , and an operation of hot-pressing the front end 75 and top 79 of the last, the manufacturing method comprises a second manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the lateral side 76 of the last, and an operation of hot-pressing the medial side 77 of the last, and the manufacturing method comprises a third manufacturing step comprising an operation of hot-pressing the base 78 of the last, and an operation of holding the top 79 of the last.
  • the three manufacturing stations 95 , 96 , 97 are provided to be arranged in this successive order. As a result, the manufacturing steps are carried out in this order. This has the advantage of low rejection rate.
  • FIGS. 10-23 and 24-27 next show more precisely how hot-pressing is exerted on the last 73 , and thereby also on the constituent portions of the article footwear 1 .
  • each of the heads of the machine 91 is designated by the reference numeral 101 , although the heads have various structures.
  • each of the elastically deformable portions is designated by the reference numeral 102 , although the portions have various structures.
  • the head non-limitingly comprises a container 103 closed by a membrane 102 , the membrane forming the elastically deformable portion, the container 103 housing a fluid 104 .
  • the container here is an enclosure having the appearance of an open box, that is to say, without a cover. In fact, it is the membrane 102 that closes the container 103 , in order to retain the fluid 104 therein.
  • the container is made, for example, with a rigid material such as metal, metal alloy, a reinforced or non-reinforced synthetic material, or any other material having sufficient stiffness qualities.
  • the membrane 102 is made of a material providing it with good ability to bending deformation, and/or good ability to reversible elastic deformation.
  • the membrane is comprised of silicone, polyurethane, rubber, any equivalent material, or any combination of these materials.
  • the membrane has a thickness between 2.0 and 6.0 mm, while good results can be obtained with a thickness between 3.5 and 4.5 mm.
  • the fluid 104 may be a liquid or a gas. Good results can be obtained in cases in which the fluid 104 is oil.
  • This fluid, i.e., oil in this case, has the advantage of being capable of being heated to various temperatures, in particular high enough to melt the hot-melt yarns involved in forming the shells 21 , 31 , as has been seen above.
  • the oil is heated to temperatures between 120 and 210 degrees Celsius, while good results can be obtained for temperatures between 140 and 180 degrees.
  • the active surface 105 of the head operates at a temperature between 120 and 140 degrees Celsius, thereby making it possible to melt the yarns 65 , 66 , 67 , 68 , 69 only as appropriate for affixing them to one another.
  • the time of application of a head on the last 73 is between 90 and 240 seconds, while good results can be obtained for hot-pressing application times between 150 and 220 seconds.
  • the hot oil is placed in the container 103 closed by the membrane 102 .
  • inlets and outlets are provided for adjusting the amount of oil, and heating devices for adjusting the temperature of the oil in the container.
  • the heads are applied to the last 73 , or are otherwise spaced therefrom by any appropriate technology.
  • pneumatic jacks 106 is suitable. The pneumatic jacks are all designated here by the reference numeral 106 for reasons of convenience.
  • FIGS. 10-27 show that the membrane 102 , in most cases, has a convex active surface 105 .
  • the membrane 102 conforms to the shape of the last.
  • the convex curvature assumed by the membrane 102 when spaced from the last 73 becomes concave when applied to the last.
  • This shape-conforming effect makes it possible to obtain an even surface for the shell(s).
  • the outer surface of the article footwear 1 does not have any folds, which is synonymous with quality. Because it has a deformable active surface, as has just been seen, the head 101 can be considered to be a deformable pad.
  • the machine 91 , 92 comprises a plurality of stations 95 , 96 , 97 in a closed path arrangement. This makes it easier to use the machine with limited manpower.
  • the machine 91 For the machine 91 shown in its entirety in FIGS. 28 and 29 , the distribution of the manufacturing stations 95 , 96 , 97 is horizontal, thereby facilitating maintenance.
  • the machine 91 includes a loading station 111 , provided to receive a last 73 , covered by the constituent elements of the article of footwear when the machine is in the production phase.
  • the machine 91 comprises an unloading station 112 , provided for the removal of the last 73 , which was positioned beforehand in the machine. This facilitates the use of the machine 91 .
  • each manufacturing station 95 , 96 , 97 comprises at least one head 101 provided to exert the hot-pressing, the head having an elastically deformable portion 102 . This enables each station to benefit from the advantages of the technology provided by the invention.
  • the invention is made from materials or devices known to one with ordinary skill in the art.
  • the structure of the machine 91 , 92 may be essentially comprised of metal elements that are welded and/or affixed to one another by screwing, nesting, or other suitable techniques.
  • it may be provided to vary the number of steps of the method, that is to say, to shape the shells 21 , 31 with a number of steps other than three. Similarly, it may be provided to vary the number of stations on a machine, or to not use all of the stations.
US15/540,926 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Method for manufacturing footwear, footwear produced using said method, and machine for manufacturing footwear Abandoned US20170340064A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1403051A FR3031015B1 (fr) 2014-12-31 2014-12-31 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant
FR14/03051 2014-12-31
PCT/FR2015/000220 WO2016107990A1 (fr) 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant

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US20170340064A1 true US20170340064A1 (en) 2017-11-30

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US (1) US20170340064A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3240449A1 (fr)
CN (1) CN107105822A (fr)
AR (1) AR103326A1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2971000A1 (fr)
FR (1) FR3031015B1 (fr)
TW (1) TW201630545A (fr)
WO (1) WO2016107990A1 (fr)

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US20190037967A1 (en) * 2017-08-04 2019-02-07 Nike, Inc. Article with at least one layered pod
US20190166952A1 (en) * 2017-12-05 2019-06-06 Reebok International Limited Article of footwear with dispensed saddle
WO2020009813A1 (fr) * 2018-07-03 2020-01-09 Under Armour, Inc. Article doté d'une structure de rubans liés thermiquement et son procédé de fabrication
US10619280B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-04-14 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US10716362B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-07-21 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure having nodes and links
US10736381B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with directional tensioning
US10736380B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US10758007B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-09-01 Under Armour, Inc. Article with thermally bonded ribbon structure and method of making
US10993497B2 (en) 2018-11-15 2021-05-04 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon loops for string lasting
JP2021083490A (ja) * 2019-11-25 2021-06-03 株式会社キタイ カスタムオーダーシューズの製造方法
US11286599B2 (en) 2017-07-13 2022-03-29 Under Armour, Inc. Method of tape embroidery
USD957110S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-12 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
USD958511S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-26 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
US11553759B2 (en) 2018-06-08 2023-01-17 Decathlon Method for producing a shoe and shoe that can be obtained by said method
USD1007110S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-12 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007825S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007826S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
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EP3405059B1 (fr) 2016-01-19 2020-10-28 NIKE Innovate C.V. Chaussure avec transition de feutrage entre matériaux
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US10883207B2 (en) * 2017-03-10 2021-01-05 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe embryo
US11788218B2 (en) * 2017-03-10 2023-10-17 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe blank
US20230076496A1 (en) * 2017-03-10 2023-03-09 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe blank
US11555261B2 (en) * 2017-03-10 2023-01-17 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe blank
US20180255864A1 (en) * 2017-03-10 2018-09-13 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe embryo
US11286599B2 (en) 2017-07-13 2022-03-29 Under Armour, Inc. Method of tape embroidery
US11913154B2 (en) 2017-07-13 2024-02-27 Under Armour, Inc. Method of tape embroidery
US20220259779A1 (en) * 2017-08-04 2022-08-18 Nike, Inc. Article with at least one layered pod
US11346025B2 (en) * 2017-08-04 2022-05-31 Nike, Inc. Article with at least one layered pod
US20190037967A1 (en) * 2017-08-04 2019-02-07 Nike, Inc. Article with at least one layered pod
US20190166952A1 (en) * 2017-12-05 2019-06-06 Reebok International Limited Article of footwear with dispensed saddle
US11553759B2 (en) 2018-06-08 2023-01-17 Decathlon Method for producing a shoe and shoe that can be obtained by said method
US10619280B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-04-14 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
WO2020009813A1 (fr) * 2018-07-03 2020-01-09 Under Armour, Inc. Article doté d'une structure de rubans liés thermiquement et son procédé de fabrication
US11203827B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2021-12-21 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US11241064B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2022-02-08 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure having nodes and links
US11753757B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2023-09-12 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US11330866B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2022-05-17 Under Armour, Inc. Article with directional tensioning
US10716362B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-07-21 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure having nodes and links
US11910872B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2024-02-27 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure having nodes and links
US11871813B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2024-01-16 Under Armour, Inc. Article with directional tensioning
US10786043B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-09-29 Under Armour, Inc. Article with thermally bonded ribbon structure and method of making
US10736381B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with directional tensioning
US10758007B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-09-01 Under Armour, Inc. Article with thermally bonded ribbon structure and method of making
US10736380B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US11732391B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2023-08-22 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US10993497B2 (en) 2018-11-15 2021-05-04 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon loops for string lasting
WO2021106275A1 (fr) * 2019-11-25 2021-06-03 株式会社キタイ Procédé de fabrication de chaussures sur mesure
JP2021083490A (ja) * 2019-11-25 2021-06-03 株式会社キタイ カスタムオーダーシューズの製造方法
USD958511S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-26 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
USD957110S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-12 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
USD1007110S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-12 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007825S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007826S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1008611S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-26 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear

Also Published As

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FR3031015A1 (fr) 2016-07-01
CA2971000A1 (fr) 2016-07-07
FR3031015B1 (fr) 2017-04-28
AR103326A1 (es) 2017-05-03
CN107105822A (zh) 2017-08-29
TW201630545A (zh) 2016-09-01
EP3240449A1 (fr) 2017-11-08
WO2016107990A1 (fr) 2016-07-07

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