TWI669425B - Lace knit - Google Patents

Lace knit Download PDF

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Publication number
TWI669425B
TWI669425B TW105132330A TW105132330A TWI669425B TW I669425 B TWI669425 B TW I669425B TW 105132330 A TW105132330 A TW 105132330A TW 105132330 A TW105132330 A TW 105132330A TW I669425 B TWI669425 B TW I669425B
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TW
Taiwan
Prior art keywords
yarn
chain knitting
knitted fabric
chain
core
Prior art date
Application number
TW105132330A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
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TW201736657A (en
Inventor
吉田茂男
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日商吉田特雷克斯股份有限公司
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Publication of TW201736657A publication Critical patent/TW201736657A/en
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Publication of TWI669425B publication Critical patent/TWI669425B/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

本發明提供一種美觀良好且質感良好之花邊編織物。 使鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50、鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部55接著,而防止格子之變形。藉此,可獲得美觀良好之花邊編織物,而且,可長期地保持該優異之美觀。而且,利用基於針織織入至花邊編織物20整體之鏈式針織紗21、第1插入紗23及第2插入紗22之熱熔融之接著性,因此,視覺及觸覺上獲得統一性,不會損及美觀及質感。又,如使所有之第1、第2接觸部50、55接著之情形般,不會損及伸縮性及柔軟性。如此可獲得美觀良好且質感優異之伸縮性之花邊編織物20。The invention provides a lace knitted fabric with good appearance and good texture. The first contact portion 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 and the second contact portion 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are bonded to prevent deformation of the lattice. Thereby, a good-looking lace knitted fabric can be obtained, and the excellent appearance can be maintained for a long period of time. Furthermore, since the knitting of the chain knitting yarn 21, the first inserting yarn 23, and the second inserting yarn 22 based on knitting into the entire lace knitted fabric 20 is used, the uniformity of vision and touch is not obtained. Impairs beauty and texture. Moreover, as in the case where all the first and second contact portions 50 and 55 are connected, the stretchability and flexibility are not impaired. In this way, a stretchable knitted fabric 20 having good appearance and excellent texture can be obtained.

Description

花邊編織物Lace knit

本發明係關於一種可較佳地用作具有伸縮性之女性用內衣之衣料或褶邊等之花邊編織物。The present invention relates to a lace knitted fabric which can be preferably used as a fabric or frills of elastic underwear for women.

典型之先前技術之花邊編織物例如於專利文獻1、2中有所記載。提出有一種技術,即,該花邊編織物包含將被覆紗纏繞於芯紗而成之包覆紗,使構成鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗與作為伸縮紗於緯圈方向針織織入至鏈式針織組織之插入紗於接觸部藉由熱熔合而接著,而防止於切斷部之散紗等。 [先前技術文獻] [專利文獻] [專利文獻1]日本專利特開2008-280627號公報 [專利文獻2]日本專利特開2011-219876號公報Typical prior art lace knitted fabrics are described in Patent Documents 1 and 2, for example. A technique is proposed in which the lace knitted fabric includes a covering yarn obtained by winding a covering yarn around a core yarn, and knitting the chain knitting yarn constituting the chain knitting structure as a stretch yarn in the weft direction The inserted yarn of the knitting structure is bonded to the contact portion by thermal fusion, and the loose yarn in the cut portion is prevented. [Prior Art Literature] [Patent Literature] [Patent Literature 1] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2008-280627 [Patent Literature 2] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2011-219876

[發明所欲解決之問題] 於上述先前技術中,以使鏈式針織紗與插入紗於接觸部接著而防止散紗等之方式構成,但存在如下問題,即,相對於與緯圈方向垂直之經圈方向之拉伸力而言,接著強度較低,而無法獲得充分之防散紗效果。 因此,本發明之目的在於提供一種美觀良好且質感良好之花邊編織物。 [解決問題之技術手段] 本發明係一種花邊編織物,其特徵在於包含: 鏈式針織紗,其構成複數個環狀部分於緯圈方向相連且於經圈方向形成複數行之鏈式針織組織; 第1插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,於緯圈方向插通鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分而針織織入至鏈式針織組織,對鏈式針織組織賦予緯圈方向之伸縮性;及 第2插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,其繞掛於構成1個鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分、及與該1個鏈式針織組織於經圈方向鄰接之鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分,對各鏈式針織組織賦予經圈方向之伸縮性; 第1插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著,且 第2插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著。 又,本發明之鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗之特徵在於,其等係包含芯紗與被覆紗之複合紗,上述芯紗包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗,上述被覆紗包含熔融溫度較芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂製之長纖維紗。 又,本發明之第1插入紗之特徵在於其係包含熔融溫度較鏈式針織紗之芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂纖維紗並且纖度為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下之彈性紗。 又,本發明之鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗之特徵在於,其等係纖度為10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下之彈性紗。 [發明之效果] 根據本發明,將第1插入紗與鏈式針織紗於複數個第1接觸部接著,並且將第2插入紗與鏈式針織紗於複數個第2接觸部接著,因此,對於緯圈方向及經圈方向之任一方向均可獲得較高之拉伸強度,並且不管花邊編織物之剪裁方向如何,均可防止散紗之產生。藉此,可防止鏈式針織紗與第1插入紗之位置偏移及鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗之位置偏移,從而可防止因該等位置偏移所引起之格子之變形。 因此,即便由花邊編織物之縫製或剪裁等製造過程所引起之外力、由穿著或洗滌等使用狀態所引起之外力發揮作用,亦可防止格子之變形,從而可長期地保持優異之美觀。而且,針織織入至花邊編織物整體之鏈式針織紗與第1插入紗接著,且鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗接著,因此,於視覺及觸覺上獲得統一性,不會損及美觀及質感而獲得維持伸縮性且質感良好之花邊編織物。此處,「質感」係指手感,良好之質感係指具有柔軟性之手感。如此可獲得美觀良好且質感良好之伸縮性較高之花邊編織物。 又,根據本發明,可防止因接著而變硬之熱熔融性合成樹脂之接著部分直接接觸肌膚,對肌膚之負擔變輕,從而可減輕皮膚損害等。 又,根據本發明,藉由選擇第1插入紗之粗度而可獲得與使用用途相應之穿著壓(服貼感或彈力感)。 又,根據本發明,藉由芯紗與被覆紗之組合、或鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗之粗度之組合而可提高各紗之接著率或改變花邊之衣料感。[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In the above-mentioned prior art, the chain knitting yarn and the inserting yarn are connected at the contact portion to prevent loose yarns, etc., but there is a problem that it is perpendicular to the weft direction As for the tensile force in the warp direction, the bonding strength is low, and a sufficient anti-scattering effect cannot be obtained. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a lace knitted fabric with good appearance and good texture. [Technical means for solving the problem] The present invention is a lace knitted fabric, which is characterized by comprising: a chain knitting yarn, which constitutes a chain knitting structure in which a plurality of loop portions are connected in a weft direction and a plurality of rows are formed in a warp direction; ; The first insert yarn is an elastically stretchable person who inserts each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction and knits into the chain knitting structure, and gives the chain knitting direction to the weft direction Stretchability; and a second insert yarn, which has elastic stretchability, is wound around each loop portion of a chain-type knitting yarn constituting a chain-type knitting structure, and is connected with the one chain-type knitting Each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn organized in the chain knitting structure adjacent to the warp direction imparts stretchability in the warp direction to each chain knitting structure; the first insertion yarn is connected to each loop of the chain knitting yarn The position where the shape-shaped portion is in contact with the chain knitting yarn, and the second insertion yarn is located at the position in contact with each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn, and is connected with the chain knitting yarn. The chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn of the present invention are characterized in that they are a composite yarn including a core yarn and a covered yarn, the core yarn includes a single-fiber yarn made of a hot-melt synthetic resin, and the covered yarn includes Long-fiber yarn made of hot-melt synthetic resin with a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn. In addition, the first insertion yarn of the present invention is characterized in that it is an elastic yarn including a heat-fusible synthetic resin fiber yarn having a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn of the chain knitting yarn and having a fineness of 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less. Further, the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn of the present invention are characterized in that the system knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn are elastic yarns having a fineness of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less. [Effect of the Invention] According to the present invention, the first insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are attached to the plurality of first contact portions, and the second insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are attached to the plurality of second contact portions. Therefore, High tensile strength can be obtained in either of the weft loop direction and the warp loop direction, and regardless of the cutting direction of the lace knitted fabric, the occurrence of loose yarn can be prevented. Thereby, the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarn and the first insertion yarn and the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn can be prevented, and the lattice deformation caused by such positional deviation can be prevented. Therefore, even if the external force caused by the manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of the lace knitted fabric, or the external force caused by the use state such as wearing or washing, acts, the deformation of the lattice can be prevented, and the excellent appearance can be maintained for a long time. Furthermore, the chain knitting yarn knitted into the entire lace knitting fabric is joined with the first insertion yarn, and the chain knitting yarn is joined with the second insertion yarn. Therefore, the uniformity is obtained visually and tactually, without impairing the appearance. And texture to obtain a lace knitted fabric that maintains stretchability and good texture. Here, "texture" refers to a hand feeling, and good texture refers to a soft hand. In this way, a highly elastic lace knitted fabric with good appearance and good texture can be obtained. In addition, according to the present invention, it is possible to prevent the adhesive portion of the hot-melt synthetic resin that is hardened by the adhesive from directly contacting the skin, lighten the burden on the skin, and reduce skin damage and the like. In addition, according to the present invention, by selecting the thickness of the first insertion yarn, it is possible to obtain a wearing pressure (fitting feeling or elastic feeling) according to the use. In addition, according to the present invention, the combination of the core yarn and the covered yarn, or the thickness of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn can improve the adhesion rate of each yarn or change the feeling of lace.

圖1係表示作為本發明之一實施形態之花邊編織物20之一部分之編織組織圖,圖2係將鏈式針織紗21及第1、第2插入紗22、23以外之紗省略而表示花邊編織物20之編織組織圖。該等圖1、圖2係為了易於理解而模式性地表示編織組織者,花邊編織物20之實物之編織組織成為如下狀態,即,第1環狀部分24及第2環狀部分25之曲率半徑較小,且各紗21、22、23極其接近或接觸。圖1中,為了易於理解,而對鏈式針織紗21標註向左下降之斜線之影線且對第1插入紗23標註向右下降之斜線之影線而表示。圖2中省略各紗21、23之厚度而表示。 再者,於本實施形態中,將利用各紗21~23編織而成之編織物稱為前體編織物。花邊編織物20係將前體編織物加熱而成者。進而,將使用花邊編織物20所製造之製品稱為編織有花邊之製品。 本實施形態之花邊編織物20係經編織物,其係經拉舍爾經編之拉舍爾經編織物,且係具有伸縮性之彈力編織物。花邊編織物20係利用包含鏈式針織紗21、第2插入紗22、及第1插入紗23之紗所編織,藉由該等紗21~23而形成複數個格子,並且形成由各格子分別包圍之複數個透孔。 此種花邊編織物20藉由格子之形狀及配置而形成花邊花紋。又,花邊編織物20包含每單位面積所配置之紗之量密集之圖案部、及每單位面積所配置之紗之量稀疏之基底部,藉由該等圖案部及基底部之形狀及配置而形成圖案花紋。此種帶有圖案花紋之花邊編織物20例如用於製造女性用貼身衣物等編織有花邊之製品。 如圖1所示,花邊編織物20包括:鏈式針織紗21,其形成具有複數個環狀部分24、25之拉舍爾經編之鏈式針織組織19;第1插入紗23,其具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性,用以於緯圈方向C針織織入至鏈式針織組織19而對鏈式針織組織19賦予緯圈方向C之伸縮性;及第2插入紗22,其彈性伸縮,且繞掛於形成1個鏈式針織組織19之鏈式針織紗21之各第2環狀部分25、及形成於經圈方向W鄰接之鏈式針織組織19之鏈式針織紗21,並對各鏈式針織組織19賦予經圈方向W之伸縮性。鏈式針織紗21有時亦稱為經紗或基礎編織紗。又,第1插入紗23亦稱為伸縮紗,第2插入紗22亦稱為緯紗。 進而,於花邊編織物20,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23於其等之複數個第1接觸部50利用彼此之熱熔合性而接著。鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23於大致所有之第1接觸部50接著。又,於花邊編織物20,於鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之複數個第2接觸部55利用彼此之熱熔合性而接著。鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之大致所有之第2接觸部55接著。 如圖2所示,鏈式針織紗21藉由進行鏈式針織而形成第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25。第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25交替地相連且沿緯圈方向C排列形成複數段。此處,有時將第1環狀部分24稱為織針紗圈,並將第2環狀部分25稱為沈片紗圈。藉由第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25交替地相連且沿緯圈方向C延伸而形成經圈。經圈於經圈方向W排列形成複數個,藉由使其等彼此連結而形成鏈式針織組織、換言之絞花組織。又,藉由鏈式針織紗21適當地橫向環縫並將於經圈方向W鄰接之鏈式針織連結,而形成具有防散紗功能之鏈式針織組織。將鏈式針織紗21橫向環縫之部分稱為防脫針部分42。 各第1環狀部分24大致形成為U字狀,且大致沿預先規定之緯圈方向C及與緯圈方向C正交之經圈方向W排列配置。又,各第1環狀部分24於成為緯圈方向C之一側之緯圈方向前段C1打開。第1環狀部分24沿經圈方向W排成一行而形成緯圈,第1環狀部分24沿緯圈方向C排成一行而形成經圈。 第2環狀部分25將沿緯圈方向C排列之第1環狀部分24連結。例如,注視於1個第2環狀部分25。所注視之第2環狀部分25之一端部與和第2環狀部分25為同一段之第1環狀部分24之端部相連。第2環狀部分25係隨著自一端部朝向另一端部,而將第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向前段C1之第1環狀部分24自一側朝向另一側插通並朝緯圈方向後段C2延伸,並將與第2環狀部分25為同一段之第1環狀部分24自另一側朝向一側插通並朝緯圈方向後段C2延伸,並且與第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24之端部相連。 以此方式將各環狀部分24、25呈鏈狀連結而形成沿緯圈方向C延伸之經圈。第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等各插入紗藉由夾於第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間而針織織入至經圈。 於本實施形態中,緯圈方向C係編織物之縱向,係指花邊編織方向。又,經圈方向W係編織物之橫向,係指相對於花邊編織方向交叉之方向。第1環狀部分24沿緯圈方向C及經圈方向W排列配置有複數個。又,沿緯圈方向C及經圈方向W排列之複數個第1環狀部分24與預先規定之假想平面大致相接地排列。該情形時,第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等針織織入至鏈式針織組織之各針織織入紗係相對於該假想平面而配置於一側。 將各插入紗22、23相對於沿第1環狀部分24延伸之假想平面配置之方向稱為正方向Z1,將上述假想平面相對於各插入紗22、23配置之方向稱為反方向Z2。於圖1及圖2中,將與紙面垂直之厚度方向Z中遠離紙面而朝向近前之方向設為正方向Z1,將與紙面垂直之方向中遠離紙面而朝向裏側之方向設為反方向Z2。 花邊編織物20之正方向Z1之面中,第1環狀部分24因第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等針織織入紗而隱藏。因此,花邊編織物20之正方向Z1之面與反方向Z2之面相比,形成於花邊編織物20之圖案花紋及花邊花紋更明確。 例如,第2環狀部分25係沿正方向Z1插通該第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向前段C1之第1環狀部分24,並沿反方向Z2插通該第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向同段之第1環狀部分24,並且與緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24相連。 第2插入紗22係用以於鏈式針織組中形成花邊花紋之紗。第2插入紗22藉由分別針織織入至於經圈方向W鄰接之經圈而將於經圈方向W鄰接之2個經圈連結。如圖1所示,第2插入紗22包含自於經圈方向W鄰接之一經圈跨及另一經圈而延伸之橫向環縫部分、及針織織入至經圈之第2插入紗針織織入部分。 在由沿緯圈方向C排列之2個橫向環縫部分與橫向環縫部分連結之經圈所包圍之空間內,形成有沿編織物之厚度方向插通之透孔。藉由選擇性地配置第2插入紗22之橫向環縫部分而可調整透孔之形狀及配置。藉此,可於花邊編織物20中形成根據透孔之配置及形狀而表現之花邊花紋。此處,由橫向環縫部分與經圈所包圍之透孔亦有由下述之圖案紗填埋而形成圖案花紋之情況。 FIG. 1 shows a knitting structure diagram of a portion of the lace knitted fabric 20 as one embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 shows lace other than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23 to show lace. Knitting organization chart of the knitted fabric 20. These figures 1 and 2 schematically show the knitting organizer for easy understanding. The actual knitting structure of the lace knitted fabric 20 is in a state where the curvature of the first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25 is as follows. The radius is small and the yarns 21, 22, 23 are extremely close or in contact. In FIG. 1, for the sake of easy understanding, the chain knitting yarn 21 is indicated by a hatched line with a downward sloping line and the first insert yarn 23 is indicated with a hatched line with a sloping line that descends to the right. In FIG. 2, the thicknesses of the yarns 21 and 23 are omitted. Furthermore, in this embodiment, a knitted fabric knitted with each of the yarns 21 to 23 is referred to as a precursor knitted fabric. The lace knitted fabric 20 is obtained by heating a precursor knitted fabric. Furthermore, a product manufactured using the knitted lace fabric 20 is referred to as a knitted fabric product. The lace knitted fabric 20 of this embodiment is a warp knitted fabric, which is a Raschel warp knitted with a Raschel warp, and is an elastic knit with elasticity. The lace knitted fabric 20 is knitted using a yarn including a chain knitting yarn 21, a second insertion yarn 22, and a first insertion yarn 23, and a plurality of lattices are formed by the yarns 21 to 23, and each lattice is formed by each lattice. Surrounded by a plurality of through holes. Such a lace knitted fabric 20 is formed into a lace pattern by the shape and arrangement of a lattice. Furthermore, the lace knitted fabric 20 includes a pattern portion in which the amount of yarns arranged per unit area is dense and a base portion in which the amount of yarns arranged per unit area is sparse, and the shape and arrangement of the pattern portions and the base portion Form a pattern. Such a lace knitted fabric 20 with a pattern is used, for example, for manufacturing knitted products such as women's undergarments. As shown in FIG. 1, the lace knitted fabric 20 includes: a chain knitting yarn 21 that forms a Raschel warp knitting structure 19 having a plurality of loop portions 24 and 25; a first insertion yarn 23 that has The elastic stretchability is used for knitting into the chain knitting structure 19 in the weft direction C to give the chain knitting structure 19 with the stretchability in the weft direction C; and the second insertion yarn 22, which is elastically stretchable, and Each of the second loop portions 25 of the chain knitting yarn 21 forming one chain knitting structure 19 and the chain knitting yarn 21 formed of the chain knitting structure 19 adjacent to the warp loop direction W are attached to each The chain knitted structure 19 provides stretchability in the warp direction W. The chain knitting yarn 21 is sometimes referred to as a warp yarn or a base knitting yarn. The first insertion yarn 23 is also referred to as a stretch yarn, and the second insertion yarn 22 is also referred to as a weft yarn. Furthermore, in the lace knitted fabric 20, the plurality of first contact portions 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are adhered by using the thermal fusion properties of each other. The chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are adhered to almost all of the first contact portions 50. In addition, on the lace knitted fabric 20, the plurality of second contact portions 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are adhered to each other by thermal fusion. The chain knitting yarn 21 and substantially all of the second contact portions 55 of the second insertion yarn 22 are continued. As shown in FIG. 2, the chain knitting yarn 21 is subjected to chain knitting to form a first loop portion 24 and a second loop portion 25. The first ring-shaped portions 24 and the second ring-shaped portions 25 are alternately connected and arranged in a weft loop direction C to form a plurality of segments. Here, the first loop portion 24 may be referred to as a knitting loop, and the second loop portion 25 may be referred to as a sinker loop. The first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25 are alternately connected and extend in the weft loop direction C to form a warp loop. The warp loops are aligned in the warp loop direction W to form a plurality of them, and the chain knitting structure, in other words, the twist structure is formed by connecting the warp loops and the like. Furthermore, the chain knitting yarn 21 is appropriately horizontally loop-stitched and the chain knitting adjacent to the warp direction W is connected to form a chain knitting structure having a function of preventing loose yarn. A portion of the chain-shaped knitting yarn 21 that is laterally stitched is referred to as a needle-off preventing portion 42. Each of the first annular portions 24 is formed in a substantially U-shape, and is arranged in a line along a predetermined weft direction C and a warp direction W orthogonal to the weft direction C. In addition, each of the first annular portions 24 is opened at a weft direction front stage C1 which is one side of the weft direction C. The first annular portions 24 are aligned in a row in the warp direction W to form a weft loop, and the first annular portions 24 are aligned in a row in the weft loop direction C to form a warp loop. The second annular portion 25 connects the first annular portions 24 arranged in the weft loop direction C. For example, look at one second ring portion 25. One end portion of the second ring-shaped portion 25 to be observed is connected to the end portion of the first ring-shaped portion 24 which is the same segment as the second ring-shaped portion 25. The second annular portion 25 is inserted from one side to the other side of the first annular portion 24 of the first section C1 in the weft direction of the second annular portion 25 as it goes from one end to the other. The rear section C2 of the loop direction extends, and the first ring section 24, which is the same section as the second ring section 25, is inserted from the other side to the side and extends toward the rear section C2 of the weft direction, and is connected to the second ring section. The ends of the first ring-shaped portion 24 of the rear section C2 in the weft direction of 25 are connected to each other. In this manner, the ring portions 24 and 25 are connected in a chain shape to form a warp loop extending in the weft loop direction C. Each of the insertion yarns such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the warp loop by being sandwiched between the first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25. In this embodiment, the longitudinal direction of the C-type knitted fabric in the weft direction refers to the lace knitting direction. The warp direction W refers to the transverse direction of the knitted fabric, and refers to a direction intersecting with the lace knitting direction. The first ring-shaped portion 24 is arranged in plural along the weft direction C and the warp direction W. Further, the plurality of first annular portions 24 arranged along the weft direction C and the warp direction W are arranged substantially in contact with a predetermined virtual plane. In this case, the knitting yarns knitting into the chain knitting structure such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23 are arranged on one side with respect to the virtual plane. The direction in which the respective insertion yarns 22 and 23 are arranged with respect to an imaginary plane extending along the first annular portion 24 is referred to as a positive direction Z1, and the direction in which the above-mentioned virtual plane is arranged with respect to the insertion yarns 22 and 23 is referred to as a reverse direction Z2. In FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, a direction away from the paper surface in a thickness direction Z perpendicular to the paper surface toward the front is referred to as a positive direction Z1, and a direction away from the paper surface in a direction perpendicular to the paper surface is directed to the reverse direction Z2. On the surface of the lace knitted fabric 20 in the positive direction Z1, the first loop portion 24 is hidden by the knitting yarns such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23. Therefore, the pattern of the lace knitted fabric 20 in the positive direction Z1 and the surface of the lace knitted fabric 20 in the opposite direction Z2 are clearer than the surface in the opposite direction Z2. For example, the second annular portion 25 is inserted through the first annular portion 24 of the front section C1 in the weft direction of the second annular portion 25 in the positive direction Z1, and is inserted through the second annular portion 25 in the reverse direction Z2. The weft loop direction is the same as the first loop portion 24 in the same section, and is connected to the first loop portion 24 in the weft loop rear section C2. The second insertion yarn 22 is a yarn for forming a lace pattern in the chain knitting group. The second insertion yarn 22 is knitted into the warp loops adjacent to the warp direction W by knitting, and the two warp loops adjacent to the warp direction W are connected. As shown in FIG. 1, the second insertion yarn 22 includes a transverse loop stitch portion extending from one warp loop and another warp loop adjacent to the warp direction W, and a second insertion yarn knitted to the warp loop. section. In the space surrounded by the warp loops connecting the two horizontal loop seam portions arranged in the weft loop direction C and the horizontal loop seam portion, a through hole is formed that penetrates in the thickness direction of the knitted fabric. The shape and arrangement of the through-holes can be adjusted by selectively arranging the lateral loop stitch portions of the second insertion yarn 22. Thereby, a lace pattern expressed according to the arrangement and shape of the through holes can be formed in the lace knitted fabric 20. Here, the through-holes surrounded by the transverse loop seam portion and the warp loop may be filled with the pattern yarn described below to form a pattern.

第2插入紗22於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸。第2插入紗22插通預先所設定之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間且沿經圈方向W延伸。又,於本實施形態中,鏈式針織組織中針織織入有複數個第2插入紗22,且各第2插入紗22係沿經圈方向W排列而針織織入。將各第2插入紗22針織織入之位置根據形成於花邊編織物20之花邊花紋而適當選擇。 The second insertion yarn 22 extends in a region in the positive direction Z1 than the first annular portion 24. The second insertion yarn 22 is inserted between the first ring-shaped portion 24 and the second ring-shaped portion 25 set in advance and extends in the warp direction W. In the present embodiment, a plurality of second insertion yarns 22 are knitted in the chain knitting structure, and each of the second insertion yarns 22 is aligned in the warp direction W and knitted. The position of knitting the second insertion yarns 22 is appropriately selected according to the lace pattern formed on the lace knitted fabric 20.

第1插入紗23藉由與鏈式針織紗21及第2插入紗22相比具有較高之熔點溫度之紗而實現。於本實施形態中,使用於花邊編織物編織後進行之加熱步驟中之加熱狀態下局部熔融之紗。第1插入紗23除用以對花邊編織物20賦予延展性以外,亦用以防止所構成之鏈式針織紗21及第2插入紗22之散紗。於本實施形態中,第1插入紗23係藉由非被覆紗、即未由被覆紗被覆之裸紗、所謂裸紗線(bare yarn)而實現,藉由熔融溫度為約200℃以上且250℃以下之聚胺基甲酸酯彈性紗而實現。第1插入紗23以相對於自然狀態伸展之狀態針織織入至鏈式針織組織。鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22中使用之聚胺基甲酸酯芯紗由於熔點較第1插入紗23中使用之聚胺基甲酸酯紗低,故而其等熔融,並與第1插入紗23熔合,藉此可防止散紗。 The first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a yarn having a higher melting temperature than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22. In this embodiment, a yarn partially melted in a heating state in a heating step performed after the lace knitted fabric is knitted is used. The first insertion yarn 23 is used to provide stretchability to the lace knitted fabric 20, and is also used to prevent loose yarns formed by the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22. In this embodiment, the first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a non-covered yarn, that is, a bare yarn not covered by the covered yarn, a so-called bare yarn, and a melting temperature of about 200 ° C or higher and 250 Polyurethane elastic yarn below ℃. The first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into a chain knitted structure in a state of being stretched relative to the natural state. The polyurethane core yarn used in the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 has a lower melting point than the polyurethane yarn used in the first insertion yarn 23, so they are melted, 1 The insertion yarn 23 is fused, thereby preventing loose yarn.

第1插入紗23沿經圈延伸,並針織織入至構成經圈之所有環狀部分。因此,於鏈式針織組織中,第1插入紗23針織織入至每單位面積之紗之量稀疏之基底部分、及每單位面積之紗之量較基底部分密集之圖案部分之兩者。又,於本實施形態中,花邊編織物20包含複數個第1插入紗23,各第1插入紗23分別針織織入至每一經圈。如此,遍及鏈式針織組織之全部區域而將第1插入紗23針織織入。 第1插入紗23於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸,且於較第2環狀部分25更靠反方向Z2之區域延伸。第1插入紗23隨著沿著對應之經圈沿緯圈方向C行進而呈鋸齒狀行進。例如,第1插入紗23若自經圈方向一側W1向經圈方向另一側W2通過所注視之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間,則會自經圈方向另一側W2向經圈方向一側W1通過所注視之第1環狀部分24之緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間。此種第1插入紗23之每次編於緯圈時亦可藉由與上述組織不同之組織而實現。 於剛編織後,第1插入紗23於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸,且於較第2插入紗22更靠花邊編織物20之反方向Z2之區域延伸。因此,於第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22插通相同之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間之區域,第1插入紗23插通第1環狀部分24與第2插入紗22之間。又,第2插入紗22插通第1插入紗23與第2環狀部分25之間。該情形時,藉由將鏈式針織紗21於緯圈方向C拉伸而第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之曲率半徑變小,從而第1插入紗23配置於第2插入紗22與第1環狀部分24之間,且與第2插入紗22及第1環狀部分24接觸。 於本實施形態中,於第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22插通相同之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間之區域,第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22彼此交叉且通過第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25。具體而言,第1插入紗23自所注視之第1環狀部分24與緯圈方向前段C1之第2環狀部分25相連之側通過所注視之第1環狀部分24及緯圈方向同段之第2環狀部分25。 圖3係表示編織前之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖,圖4係表示編織成花邊編織物20之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。鏈式針織紗21於編織成花邊編織物20之狀態下為如圖1、圖2所示之形狀,但於圖4中,為了易於理解而以呈直線狀延伸之狀態表示。鏈式針織紗21係將被覆紗31呈螺旋狀纏繞至具有伸縮性之芯紗30而成之紗。芯紗30係包含熱塑性合成樹脂之單纖維紗(長絲紗),例如包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯。被覆紗31係由包含合成樹脂之複數個長纖維所構成之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚醯胺(商標名:尼龍)。 鏈式針織紗21於編織前之狀態下,如圖3所示,以被覆紗31彼此相互接觸而芯紗30不露出之方式由被覆紗31覆蓋。鏈式針織紗21利用芯紗30之伸縮性而以如圖4所示般伸展之狀態編織。鏈式針織紗21於伸展之狀態下成為如下狀態,即,於被覆紗31之間形成有螺旋狀之間隙,且芯紗30自該間隙露出。 第2插入紗22係包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗之芯紗、由包含合成樹脂之複數個長纖維所構成之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚醯胺(商標名:尼龍)、嫘縈、聚酯等。第1插入紗23係亦稱為斯潘德克斯彈性纖維之紗,且係包含具有伸縮性之材料之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯。 鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23均包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,但包含種類互不相同之聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,且芯紗30之熔融溫度較第1插入紗23之熔融溫度(約200~250℃)低。芯紗30之熔融溫度為約140~190℃,較被覆紗31、第2插入紗22、第1插入紗23之各熔融溫度低,且具有熱塑性。如此,鏈式針織紗21係包含含有熔融溫度較低之材料之芯紗30之紗。又,第2插入紗22之芯紗亦可為熔融溫度與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30為相同程度。 圖5係表示本實施形態之花邊編織物20之製造步驟之一例之流程圖。首先,於步驟a0中,完成用於編織花邊編織物20之各紗之選擇、應形成於花邊編織物20之圖案花紋之決定、及用以形成所需之編織組織之編織物之設計等而完成編織物編織之準備時,進入至步驟a1,開始製造花邊編織物20。 於作為編織物編織步驟之步驟a1中,使用作為拉舍爾經編機之編織機,編織成為花邊編織物20之前體之前體編織物。編織機按照步驟a0中設計之編織順序,將第1插入紗23、第2插入紗22等各紗21、22、23針織織入至鏈式針織紗21,編織與圖1所示之花邊編織物20相同之編織組織之前體編織物。 於前體編織物中,鏈式針織紗21及第1插入紗23具有伸縮性。編織機於使具有伸縮性之紗伸長之狀態下執行編織動作。前體編織物藉由以伸長狀態針織織入之紗之回復力而於編織後收縮,若該伸縮性維持至花邊編織物20,則花邊編織物20成為具有伸縮性之彈力花邊編織物。如此般完成前體編織物之編織時,進入至步驟a2。 於作為染色步驟之步驟a2中,對步驟a1中所編織之前體編織物進行染色,染色完成時,移至步驟a3。於步驟a3中,將經染色之前體編織物加熱至鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30之熔融溫度以上且未達芯紗30以外之紗22、23、31之熔融溫度之溫度。於步驟a3中對前體編織物進行加熱時,使前體編織物伸展,將鏈式針織紗21以如圖4所示般伸長之狀態加熱。藉此,以鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30局部露出之狀態加熱而熔融。又,第2插入紗22之芯紗亦可為熔融溫度與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30為相同程度。 因此,於鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50中的第1插入紗23與芯紗30露出之部分接觸之第1接觸部50,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23接著。又,於鏈式針織紗21彼此之第2接觸部55中的芯紗30露出之部分彼此接觸之第2接觸部55,鏈式針織紗21彼此接著。此種接觸部50、55成為熔融芯紗通過被覆紗之特性狀、彎曲部之最中心側之形態,且係接著概率最高之部位,但有如下情形,即,於該等接觸部50、55以外之位置熔融芯紗亦露出,若於與其他纖維接觸之狀態下定型,則形成接著部分。 鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23雖然種類不同,但均包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,因此,藉由芯紗30熔融而容易熱熔合併接著。又,鏈式針織紗21之被覆紗31包含聚醯胺,不易與芯紗30接著,藉由以如上所述之第1接觸部50之大部分接著之方式對定型溫度及定型時間進行調整,而於熔融芯紗與伸縮用聚胺基甲酸酯紗之情形時,可將鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23於第1接觸部50以約60~90%之接著率接著。進而,於鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部55,芯紗30露出之部分彼此接觸,且以約50~80%之接著率接著。 如此般將前體編織物加熱,使鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50之一部分接著,並且使鏈式針織紗21彼此之第2接觸部55之一部分接著,形成花邊編織物20,而進入至步驟a4。於步驟a4中,將所形成之花邊編織物20切割(寬幅之情形時維持原樣),於步驟a5中結束花邊編織物20之製造作業。因於步驟a2中對前體編織物進行加熱而鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30熔融,因此,損及伸縮性,但第1插入紗23僅加熱至未達熔融溫度之溫度,故而可維持伸縮性。因此,花邊編織物20具有伸縮性。 根據如上所述之本實施形態之花邊編織物20,具有伸縮性之第1插入紗23針織織入至鏈式針織組織19而對鏈式針織組織賦予伸縮性,從而可實現具有伸縮性之花邊編織物。又,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50之一部分接著,並且鏈式針織紗21彼此或鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部55之一部分相互接著。藉此,可防止鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之位置偏移、及鏈式針織紗21彼此或鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之位置偏移,從而可防止格子之變形。例如,即便由花邊編織物之縫製或剪裁等製造過程所引起之外力、由穿著或洗滌等使用狀態所引起之外力發揮作用,亦可防止格子之變形而維持格子之形狀,從而可獲得美觀良好之花邊編織物,而且,可長期地保持該優異之美觀。 利用針織織入至花邊編織物20整體之鏈式針織紗21、第1插入紗23及第2插入紗22之熱熔合性而將鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23接著,並將鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22接著,因此,並非局部使用不同之紗之構成,從而於視覺及觸覺上獲得統一性,且不會損及美觀及質感。進而,使利用被覆紗31覆蓋芯紗30而成之鏈式針織紗21伸長,而於芯紗30露出之部分接著,因此,不會產生被覆紗31之表面由芯紗30之熔融物覆蓋之情況,於使花邊編織物20及使用其而製造之編織有花邊之製品與肌膚接觸時,芯紗30之熔融物不與肌膚接觸,而被覆紗31與肌膚接觸。被覆紗31係複數個單纖維之集合體,因此,可獲得柔軟柔和之感觸,且可保持良好之質感。此處之質感係指手感,良好之質感係指具有柔軟性且具有柔和感之手感。 又,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50、及鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部5大致全部接著,因此,可獲得美觀良好且質感優異之伸縮性之花邊編織物,其針對緯圈方向C及經圈方向W之任一方向均儘可能地防止容易對格子之變形造成影響之鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之位置偏移、及鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之位置偏移,不會損及伸縮性及柔軟性,且於較高之拉伸強度下不易產生散紗。 作為上述熱定型步驟之步驟a3中之加熱條件設定為鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30熔融並且可防止包括芯紗30以外之紗之脆性化在內之特性變化的加熱條件。又,加熱步驟中之加熱條件較佳為設定為將芯紗30加熱至可保持作為紗之形態之程度之溫度的加熱條件。藉此,可使得芯紗30之熔融物不出現於編織物之表面而不易與肌膚接觸。 關於加熱條件,設定例如加熱溫度與加熱時間。將芯紗30熔融之最低熔融溫度設為B1,將以最低熔融溫度加熱時直至軟化為止之時間設為D1。又,將芯紗30以外之紗之特性變化之最低特性變化溫度設為B2,並將以最低特性變化溫度加熱時直至特性產生變化為止之時間設為D2。該情形時,於本實施形態中,若將加熱步驟中之加熱溫度設為B3,並將加熱時間設為D3,則設定為B1<B3<B2、D1<D3<D2。進而,將B3設為儘可能接近於B1之值,並將D3設為儘可能接近於D1之值,藉此可容易地保持芯紗30之作為紗之形態。 於本實施形態中,作為鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30,使用10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下、較佳為10丹尼以上且70丹尼以下之聚酯系熱塑性聚胺基甲酸酯彈性紗。又,以170℃以上且195℃以下之加熱溫度、30 sec以上且90 sec以下之加熱時間進行熱處理。藉此,可使芯紗30熔融,並且可防止剩餘之紗之特性變化。又,第1插入紗22之纖度例如選擇為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下。第2插入紗21之芯紗亦可使用與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30相同者。 例如,於使加熱時間固定之情形時,若將加熱溫度設為未達170℃,則基於熔融後之芯紗30之接著力變小。又,若加熱溫度超過195℃,則難以保持芯紗30之作為紗之形態,而且,有芯紗30以外之紗之特性產生變化之虞。相對於此,於本實施形態中,可藉由如上述般將加熱溫度設為170℃以上且195℃以下而防止產生上述問題。 芯紗30越細,則接著部越接近於點接點而變小,從而質感變佳,芯紗30越粗,則接著部越大而損及質感。為將芯紗30加粗且保持良好之質感,考慮將被覆紗31加粗,但鏈式針織紗21會變粗,從而損及花邊編織物之通透感。又,芯紗30越細則接著強度越小,芯紗30越粗則接著強度越大。又,藉由芯紗30與被覆紗之組合而可形成與用途相應之衣料感。進而,藉由將各個紗本身設定為較粗或進行組合,亦可謀求破裂強度之提昇。 因此,於芯紗30為未達10丹尼之較細之紗之情形時,有強度變得過小之問題,於芯紗30為超過140丹尼之較粗之紗之情形時,有損及質感之問題。藉由將芯紗30設為10丹尼以上且140丹尼以下而可獲得無強度上之不足且良好之質感。就相同之觀點而言,較佳為將芯紗30設為10丹尼以上且50丹尼以下。 又,花邊編織物20係如上所述使第1及第2接觸部50、55接著,故而有防止紗之散紗發展之效果。因此,例如可對花邊編織物20以稱為花紋切割及自由切割等之方式進行任意形狀之剪裁。因此,於經圈方向W及緯圈方向C之任一方向上均具有較高之伸縮性與形態穩定性,可藉由模塑加工等而進行立體成形。 以此方式製造之花邊編織物20於剪裁步驟a4中,為了形成女性用內衣等之所需之立體形狀,例如以180℃進行模塑成型加工,剪裁成個別之加工品,於步驟a5中結束製造作業。 本發明之花邊編織物20係如上所述使第1及使第2接觸部50、55接著,可防止紗之散紗,故而可設為未形成防脫針部42或者防脫針部42較少之構成。若設為無防脫針部42或者防脫針部42較少之構成,則可不進行或者減少鏈式針織紗21之橫穿,從而可提昇美觀且提昇品質。 上述實施形態僅為本發明之例示,可對構成進行變更。例如,各紗21~23之材質等可適當變更。The first insertion yarn 23 extends along the warp loop, and is knitted into all loop portions constituting the warp loop. Therefore, in the chain knitting structure, the first insert yarn 23 is knitted into both the sparse base portion and the pattern portion where the amount of yarn per unit area is denser than the base portion. Furthermore, in this embodiment, the lace knitted fabric 20 includes a plurality of first insertion yarns 23, and each of the first insertion yarns 23 is knitted into each warp loop. In this way, the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted and knitted over the entire area of the chain knitting structure. The first insertion yarn 23 extends in a region in the positive direction Z1 than the first annular portion 24 and extends in a region in the opposite direction Z2 than the second annular portion 25. The first insertion yarn 23 travels along the corresponding warp loop in the weft loop direction C, and then travels in a zigzag manner. For example, if the first insertion yarn 23 passes between the first ring-shaped portion 24 and the second ring-shaped portion 25 viewed from one side W1 of the warp direction to the other side W2 of the warp direction, it will One side W2 passes between the first ring-shaped portion 24 and the second ring-shaped portion 25 of the weft ring-direction rear section C2 of the first ring-shaped portion 24 to be watched toward the warp-ring side W1. Each time such a first insertion yarn 23 is knitted on a weft loop, it can also be realized by a structure different from the above-mentioned structure. Immediately after weaving, the first insertion yarn 23 extends in a region in the positive direction Z1 than the first loop portion 24, and extends in a region of the opposite direction Z2 of the lace knit 20 more than the second insertion yarn 22. Therefore, in the area between the first looped portion 24 and the second looped portion 25 where the first and second insertion yarns 23 and 22 pass through, the first looped portion 23 passes through the first looped portion 24 and The second is inserted between the yarns 22. The second insertion yarn 22 is inserted between the first insertion yarn 23 and the second loop portion 25. In this case, by stretching the chain knitting yarn 21 in the weft direction C, the radius of curvature of the first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25 becomes smaller, so that the first insertion yarn 23 is disposed at the second insertion. The yarn 22 is in contact with the first annular portion 24 and in contact with the second insertion yarn 22 and the first annular portion 24. In this embodiment, the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 are inserted through the same area between the first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25, and the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 crosses each other and passes through the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25. Specifically, the first insertion yarn 23 is connected from the side where the first ring-shaped portion 24 being watched to the second ring-shaped portion 25 of the front section C1 in the weft direction through the first ring-shaped portion 24 and the weft direction. Paragraph 2 of the second ring portion 25. FIG. 3 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 before weaving, and FIG. 4 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 that is woven into a lace knitted fabric 20. The chain knitting yarn 21 has a shape shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 in a state of being knitted into a lace knitted fabric 20. However, in FIG. 4, it is shown in a linearly extended state for easy understanding. The chain knitting yarn 21 is a yarn obtained by spirally winding a covering yarn 31 around an elastic core yarn 30. The core yarn 30 is a single-fiber yarn (filament yarn) containing a thermoplastic synthetic resin, and includes, for example, a polyester-based polyurethane. The covering yarn 31 is a long-fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers including a synthetic resin, and includes, for example, polyamide (trade name: nylon). In the state before the knitting yarn 21, as shown in FIG. 3, the chain knitting yarn 21 is covered with the covering yarn 31 so that the covering yarns 31 are in contact with each other and the core yarn 30 is not exposed. The chain knitting yarn 21 is knitted in a stretched state as shown in FIG. 4 by utilizing the stretchability of the core yarn 30. In the stretched state, the chain knitting yarn 21 is in a state where a spiral gap is formed between the covering yarns 31 and the core yarn 30 is exposed from the gap. The second insertion yarn 22 is a core yarn including a single-fiber yarn made of a hot-melt synthetic resin, and a long-fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers including a synthetic resin, such as polyamide (trademark) Name: Nylon), rayon, polyester, etc. The first insertion yarn 23 is a yarn also called a spandex elastic fiber, and is a long-fiber yarn (filament yarn) containing a stretchable material, for example, a polyester-based polyurethane. The core yarn 30 and the first insertion yarn 23 of the chain knitting yarn 21 both contain polyester polyurethane, but different types of polyester polyurethane, and the melting of the core yarn 30 The temperature is lower than the melting temperature (about 200 to 250 ° C.) of the first insertion yarn 23. The melting temperature of the core yarn 30 is about 140 to 190 ° C., which is lower than the melting temperatures of the covering yarn 31, the second insertion yarn 22, and the first insertion yarn 23 and has thermoplasticity. As such, the chain knitting yarn 21 is a yarn including a core yarn 30 containing a material having a lower melting temperature. The core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have the same melting temperature as that of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. FIG. 5 is a flowchart showing an example of the manufacturing steps of the lace knitted fabric 20 according to this embodiment. First, in step a0, the selection of the yarns used for knitting the lace knitted fabric 20, the decision of the pattern to be formed on the lace knitted fabric 20, and the design of the knitted fabric used to form the desired knitted structure are completed. When the preparation for knitting is completed, the process proceeds to step a1 to start manufacturing the lace knitted fabric 20. In step a1, which is a knitting step, a knitting machine as a Raschel warp knitting machine is used to knit into a precursor knitted fabric of a lace knitted fabric 20 precursor. The knitting machine knits each of the yarns 21, 22, 23 such as the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 into the chain knitting yarn 21 in accordance with the knitting sequence designed in step a0, and knits the lace knitting shown in FIG. The fabric 20 has the same woven structure precursor knitted fabric. In the precursor knitted fabric, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 have stretchability. The knitting machine performs a knitting operation in a state where the stretchable yarn is stretched. The precursor knitted fabric shrinks after weaving due to the restoring force of the yarn knitted in the stretched state, and if the stretchability is maintained to the lace knitted fabric 20, the lace knitted fabric 20 becomes a stretchable elastic lace knitted fabric. When the knitting of the precursor knitted fabric is completed in this manner, the process proceeds to step a2. In step a2 as the dyeing step, the precursor knitted fabric knitted in step a1 is dyed. When the dyeing is completed, the process moves to step a3. In step a3, the dyed precursor knitted fabric is heated to a temperature above the melting temperature of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and not reaching the melting temperature of the yarns 22, 23, 31 other than the core yarn 30. When the precursor knitted fabric is heated in step a3, the precursor knitted fabric is stretched, and the chain knitting yarn 21 is heated as shown in FIG. 4. Thereby, the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is heated and melted in a partially exposed state. The core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have the same melting temperature as that of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. Therefore, in the first contact portion 50 where the first insertion yarn 23 of the first contact portion 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 contacts the exposed portion of the core yarn 30, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first contact portion 50 The yarn 23 is inserted. In addition, in the second contact portions 55 where the exposed portions of the core yarns 30 in the second contact portions 55 of the chain knitted yarns 21 contact each other, the chain knitted yarns 21 are adhered to each other. Such contact portions 50 and 55 have the characteristics of the molten core yarn passing through the covered yarn and the most central side of the bent portion, and are the locations with the highest probability of attachment. However, there are cases where the contact portions 50 and 55 are The molten core yarn is also exposed at other locations, and if it is set in contact with other fibers, a bonding portion is formed. Although the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are different in type, each of them contains a polyester-based polyurethane, and therefore, the core yarn 30 is melted and easily heat-fused and bonded. In addition, the covering yarn 31 of the chain knitting yarn 21 includes polyamide, which is difficult to adhere to the core yarn 30, and the setting temperature and the setting time are adjusted by most of the first contact portion 50 as described above. In the case of melting the core yarn and the polyurethane yarn for expansion and contraction, the core yarn 30 and the first insertion yarn 23 of the chain knitting yarn 21 can be adhered to the first contact portion 50 at about 60 to 90%. Rate goes on. Furthermore, at the second contact portion 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22, the exposed portions of the core yarn 30 are in contact with each other, and are adhered at a bonding rate of about 50 to 80%. The precursor knitted fabric is heated in such a manner that a portion of the first contact portion 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 is adhered, and a portion of the second contact portion 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is adhered to each other to form The lace knitted fabric 20 proceeds to step a4. In step a4, the formed lace knitted fabric 20 is cut (it remains as it is in the case of a wide width), and in step a5, the manufacturing operation of the lace knitted fabric 20 is finished. The core knitting yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted by heating the precursor knitted fabric in step a2, so that the stretchability is impaired, but the first insertion yarn 23 is heated only to a temperature not reaching the melting temperature, so it can be maintained. Scalability. Therefore, the lace knitted fabric 20 has stretchability. According to the lace knitted fabric 20 of this embodiment as described above, the first insert yarn 23 having elasticity is knitted into the chain knitted structure 19 and stretchability is added to the chain knitted structure, so that elastic lace can be realized. Braid. Further, a part of the first contact portion 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 is continued, and the part of the chain knitting yarn 21 or a portion of the second contact portion 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 is continued. Followed each other. Thereby, the positional shift of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 and the positional shift of the chain knitting yarns 21 or between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 can be prevented, thereby preventing the Deformation. For example, even if external forces caused by the manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of lace knitted fabrics, or external forces caused by use conditions such as wearing or washing, can prevent the deformation of the lattice and maintain the shape of the lattice, thereby obtaining good appearance It is a lace knitted fabric, and can maintain the excellent appearance for a long time. The chain knitting yarn 21, the first inserting yarn 23, and the second inserting yarn 22 are woven into the whole of the lace knitted fabric 20 by thermal fusion, so that the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first inserting yarn 23 are bonded, and the chain is knitted. The knitting yarn 21 and the second inserting yarn 22 are followed, and therefore, different yarn structures are not used locally, so that uniformity is obtained visually and tactually without impairing the appearance and texture. Further, the chain knitting yarn 21 formed by covering the core yarn 30 with the covering yarn 31 is extended, and the exposed portion of the core yarn 30 is continued. Therefore, the surface of the covering yarn 31 is not covered by the melt of the core yarn 30. In some cases, when the lace knitted fabric 20 and the laced product manufactured using the same are brought into contact with the skin, the melt of the core yarn 30 is not in contact with the skin, and the covering yarn 31 is in contact with the skin. Since the covering yarn 31 is an assembly of a plurality of single fibers, a soft and soft feel can be obtained, and a good texture can be maintained. The texture here refers to the feel, and the good texture refers to the feel that is soft and soft. In addition, since the first contact portion 50 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 and the second contact portion 5 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are almost all adhered, it is possible to obtain good appearance and texture. The excellent stretchable lace knit prevents the positions of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first inserting yarn 23 which are easy to affect the deformation of the lattice in either of the weft direction C and the warp direction W. Offset and positional shift of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 will not impair the stretchability and softness, and it is not easy to produce loose yarns under high tensile strength. The heating condition in the step a3 as the heat setting step is set to a heating condition in which the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted and changes in characteristics including the brittleness of yarns other than the core yarn 30 are prevented. The heating condition in the heating step is preferably set to a heating condition in which the core yarn 30 is heated to a temperature that can maintain the shape of the yarn. Thereby, the molten material of the core yarn 30 can be prevented from appearing on the surface of the knitted fabric and is not easy to contact the skin. Regarding heating conditions, for example, heating temperature and heating time are set. The minimum melting temperature at which the core yarn 30 is melted is set to B1, and the time until softening when heated at the minimum melting temperature is set to D1. In addition, the minimum characteristic change temperature of the characteristic change of yarns other than the core yarn 30 is set to B2, and the time until the characteristic changes when heated at the minimum characteristic change temperature is set to D2. In this case, in the present embodiment, if the heating temperature in the heating step is set to B3 and the heating time is set to D3, then B1 <B3 <B2, D1 <D3 <D2. Furthermore, by setting B3 as close to B1 as possible and D3 as close to D1 as possible, it is possible to easily maintain the form of the core yarn 30 as the yarn. In the present embodiment, as the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21, a polyester-based thermoplastic polyurethane of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less, preferably 10 denier or more and 70 denier or less is used. Ester elastic yarn. The heat treatment is performed at a heating temperature of 170 ° C. to 195 ° C. and a heating time of 30 sec to 90 sec. Thereby, the core yarn 30 can be melted, and the characteristics of the remaining yarn can be prevented from changing. The fineness of the first insertion yarn 22 is selected, for example, from 40 denier to 420 denier. The core yarn of the second insertion yarn 21 may be the same as the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. For example, when the heating time is fixed, if the heating temperature is set to less than 170 ° C., the adhesion force based on the melted core yarn 30 becomes small. When the heating temperature exceeds 195 ° C, it is difficult to maintain the form of the core yarn 30 as a yarn, and the characteristics of yarns other than the core yarn 30 may change. On the other hand, in this embodiment, the above-mentioned problem can be prevented by setting the heating temperature to 170 ° C or higher and 195 ° C or lower as described above. The thinner the core yarn 30 is, the closer the bonding portion is to the point of contact and becomes smaller, so that the texture is better, and the thicker the core yarn 30 is, the larger the bonding portion is to damage the texture. In order to thicken the core yarn 30 and maintain a good texture, it is considered to thicken the covering yarn 31, but the chain knitting yarn 21 will become thick, thereby impairing the permeability of the lace knitted fabric. The stronger the core yarn 30, the smaller the bonding strength, and the thicker the core yarn 30, the larger the bonding strength. In addition, the combination of the core yarn 30 and the covering yarn can provide a feeling of clothing according to the application. Furthermore, by setting each yarn itself to be thick or combining them, it is also possible to improve the breaking strength. Therefore, when the core yarn 30 is a thinner yarn of less than 10 deniers, there is a problem that the strength becomes too small, and when the core yarn 30 is a thicker yarn of more than 140 deniers, it is harmful. The problem of texture. By setting the core yarn 30 to 10 denier or more and 140 denier or less, a good texture with no shortage of strength can be obtained. From the same viewpoint, it is preferable to set the core yarn 30 to 10 denier or more and 50 denier or less. Furthermore, the lace knitted fabric 20 has the effect of preventing the development of loose yarns by adhering the first and second contact portions 50 and 55 as described above. Therefore, for example, the lace knitted fabric 20 can be cut in an arbitrary shape by a method called pattern cutting, free cutting, or the like. Therefore, it has high stretchability and morphological stability in either of the warp direction W and the weft direction C, and can be three-dimensionally formed by molding or the like. In the cutting step a4, the lace knitted fabric 20 manufactured in this way is formed into a desired three-dimensional shape for women's underwear, for example, is molded at 180 ° C, and cut into individual processed products. The process ends in step a5. Manufacturing operations. The lace knitted fabric 20 of the present invention has the first and second contact portions 50, 55 connected as described above, and can prevent the loosening of the yarn. Therefore, the anti-off needle portion 42 or the anti-off needle portion 42 may be formed rather than Less of the composition. If it is set as the structure which does not have the needle-off prevention part 42 or has few needle-off prevention parts 42, the crossing of the chain knitting yarn 21 may not be performed or reduced, and the aesthetics and quality may be improved. The above-mentioned embodiments are merely examples of the present invention, and the configuration can be changed. For example, the material and the like of each of the yarns 21 to 23 can be appropriately changed.

19‧‧‧鏈式針織組織19‧‧‧ Chain Knitting Organization

20‧‧‧花邊編織物20‧‧‧ lace knitted fabric

21‧‧‧鏈式針織紗21‧‧‧ Chain Knitting Yarn

22‧‧‧第2插入紗22‧‧‧ 2nd insert yarn

23‧‧‧第1插入紗23‧‧‧The first insert yarn

24‧‧‧第1環狀部分24‧‧‧The first ring

25‧‧‧第2環狀部分25‧‧‧The second ring

30‧‧‧芯紗30‧‧‧ core yarn

31‧‧‧被覆紗31‧‧‧ Covered Yarn

42‧‧‧防脫針部42‧‧‧Anti-off needle part

50‧‧‧第1接觸部50‧‧‧ the first contact

55‧‧‧第2接觸部55‧‧‧The second contact

C‧‧‧緯圈方向C‧‧‧ Orientation

C1‧‧‧緯圈方向前段C1‧‧‧ Forward

C2‧‧‧緯圈方向後段C2‧‧‧ rear section

W‧‧‧經圈方向W‧‧‧ meridian direction

W1‧‧‧經圈方向一側W1‧‧‧ side of warp direction

W2‧‧‧經圈方向另一側W2‧‧‧ the other side of the meridian

Z‧‧‧厚度方向Z‧‧‧ thickness direction

Z1‧‧‧正方向Z1‧‧‧ positive direction

Z2‧‧‧反方向Z2‧‧‧ reverse direction

圖1係表示作為本發明之一實施形態之花邊編織物20之一部分之編織組織圖。 圖2係將鏈式針織紗21及第1、第2插入紗22、23以外之紗省略而表示花邊編織物20之編織組織圖。 圖3係表示編織前之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。 圖4係表示編織成花邊編織物20之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。 圖5係表示本實施形態之花邊編織物20之製造步驟之流程圖。FIG. 1 is a knitting structure diagram showing a portion of the lace knitted fabric 20 as an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the knitting structure of the lace knitted fabric 20 by omitting yarns other than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23. Fig. 3 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 before weaving. FIG. 4 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 woven into the lace knitted fabric 20. FIG. 5 is a flowchart showing the manufacturing steps of the lace knitted fabric 20 according to this embodiment.

Claims (4)

一種花邊編織物,其特徵在於包含:鏈式針織紗,其構成複數個環狀部分於緯圈方向相連且於經圈方向形成複數行之鏈式針織組織;第1插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,於緯圈方向插通鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分而針織織入至鏈式針織組織,對鏈式針織組織賦予緯圈方向之伸縮性;及第2插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,其繞掛於構成1個鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分、及與該1個鏈式針織組織於經圈方向鄰接之鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分,對各鏈式針織組織賦予經圈方向之伸縮性;第1插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著,第2插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著,鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗係包含具有芯紗及呈螺旋狀纏繞至芯紗之被覆紗之複合紗,鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗之各芯紗係包含熔融溫度較第1插入紗低之熱熔融性合成樹脂纖維,且第1插入紗係未由被覆紗被覆之裸紗。A lace knitted fabric characterized by comprising: a chain knitting yarn, which constitutes a chain knitting structure in which a plurality of loop portions are connected in a weft direction and a plurality of rows are formed in a warp direction; a first insertion yarn, which is elastic For the stretchable stretcher, insert each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction and knit into the chain knitting structure to give the chain knitting structure stretchability in the weft direction; and the second insertion yarn, It is an elastically stretchable person, and it is wound around each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn constituting a chain knitting structure, and the chain knitting adjacent to the one chain knitting structure in the warp direction Each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn of the organization gives each chain knitting structure stretchability in the warp direction; the first insertion yarn is at a position in contact with each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn, and the chain type Knitting yarn Next, the second insertion yarn is in contact with each loop portion of the chain knitting yarn. Next to the chain knitting yarn, the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn include a core yarn and a spiral shape. Composite yarn wrapped to core yarn Each core yarn of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn includes a heat-fusible synthetic resin fiber having a melting temperature lower than that of the first insertion yarn, and the first insertion yarn is a bare yarn not covered by the covering yarn. 如請求項1之花邊編織物,其中鏈式針織紗之芯紗及第2插入紗之芯紗係包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗,鏈式針織紗之被覆紗及第2插入紗之被覆紗係包含熔融溫度較各芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂製之長纖維紗。For example, the lace knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the core yarn of the chain knitting yarn and the core yarn of the second insertion yarn include single-fiber yarn made of hot-melt synthetic resin, the covering yarn of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn The covered yarn is a long-fiber yarn made of a heat-fusible synthetic resin having a melting temperature higher than that of each core yarn. 如請求項2之花邊編織物,其中第1插入紗係包含熔融溫度較鏈式針織紗之芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂纖維紗並且纖度為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下之彈性紗。For example, the lace knitted fabric of claim 2, wherein the first inserted yarn is an elastic yarn having a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn of the chain knitting yarn and having a fineness of 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less . 如請求項1至3中任一項之花邊編織物,其中鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗係纖度為10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下之彈性紗。The lace knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn are elastic yarns having a fineness of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less.
TW105132330A 2016-04-08 2016-10-06 Lace knit TWI669425B (en)

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CN110644131A (en) * 2019-10-15 2020-01-03 桐乡市纳兰经编纺织有限公司 Special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and preparation method thereof
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