TW201736657A - Knitted lace - Google Patents

Knitted lace Download PDF

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Publication number
TW201736657A
TW201736657A TW105132330A TW105132330A TW201736657A TW 201736657 A TW201736657 A TW 201736657A TW 105132330 A TW105132330 A TW 105132330A TW 105132330 A TW105132330 A TW 105132330A TW 201736657 A TW201736657 A TW 201736657A
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Taiwan
Prior art keywords
yarn
chain knitting
chain
lace
knitted
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TW105132330A
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Chinese (zh)
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TWI669425B (en
Inventor
Shigeo Yoshita
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Yoshita Tex Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

[Problem] To provide knitted lace that is beautiful and has a good texture. [Solution] Bonding of first contacts 50 between chain stitch yarns 21 and first inserted yarns 23 and of second contacts between chain stitch yarns 21 and second inserted yarns 22 prevents distortion of the openwork. As a result, a beautiful knitted lace is obtained and the beauty thereof can be maintained over long periods. Moreover, since adhesion due to thermofusion of the chain stitch yarns 21, the first inserted yarns 23 and the second inserted yarns 22 that are knitted into the knitted lace 20 as a whole is used, visual and tactile uniformity is obtained and beauty and texture are not adversely affected. Furthermore, elasticity and flexibility are not adversely affected as when all of the first and second contacts 50, 55 are bonded. Thus, an elastic knitted lace 20 that is beautiful and has excellent texture is obtained.

Description

花邊編織物Lace braid

本發明係關於一種可較佳地用作具有伸縮性之女性用內衣之衣料或褶邊等之花邊編織物。The present invention relates to a lace woven fabric which can be preferably used as a garment material or a hem of a female underwear having elasticity.

典型之先前技術之花邊編織物例如於專利文獻1、2中有所記載。提出有一種技術,即,該花邊編織物包含將被覆紗纏繞於芯紗而成之包覆紗,使構成鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗與作為伸縮紗於緯圈方向針織織入至鏈式針織組織之插入紗於接觸部藉由熱熔合而接著,而防止於切斷部之散紗等。 [先前技術文獻] [專利文獻] [專利文獻1]日本專利特開2008-280627號公報 [專利文獻2]日本專利特開2011-219876號公報Typical prior art lace woven fabrics are described, for example, in Patent Documents 1 and 2. There is proposed a technique in which the lace knitted fabric comprises a covered yarn obtained by winding a coated yarn on a core yarn, and knitting the chain knitting yarn constituting the chain knitted fabric and knitting as a stretch yarn in the direction of the weft. The insertion yarn of the knitted structure is adhered to the contact portion by heat fusion, and is prevented from being loosened by the cut portion or the like. [Patent Document] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2008-280627 (Patent Document 2) Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2011-219876

[發明所欲解決之問題] 於上述先前技術中,以使鏈式針織紗與插入紗於接觸部接著而防止散紗等之方式構成,但存在如下問題,即,相對於與緯圈方向垂直之經圈方向之拉伸力而言,接著強度較低,而無法獲得充分之防散紗效果。 因此,本發明之目的在於提供一種美觀良好且質感良好之花邊編織物。 [解決問題之技術手段] 本發明係一種花邊編織物,其特徵在於包含: 鏈式針織紗,其構成複數個環狀部分於緯圈方向相連且於經圈方向形成複數行之鏈式針織組織; 第1插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,於緯圈方向插通鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分而針織織入至鏈式針織組織,對鏈式針織組織賦予緯圈方向之伸縮性;及 第2插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,其繞掛於構成1個鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分、及與該1個鏈式針織組織於經圈方向鄰接之鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分,對各鏈式針織組織賦予經圈方向之伸縮性; 第1插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著,且 第2插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著。 又,本發明之鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗之特徵在於,其等係包含芯紗與被覆紗之複合紗,上述芯紗包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗,上述被覆紗包含熔融溫度較芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂製之長纖維紗。 又,本發明之第1插入紗之特徵在於其係包含熔融溫度較鏈式針織紗之芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂纖維紗並且纖度為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下之彈性紗。 又,本發明之鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗之特徵在於,其等係纖度為10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下之彈性紗。 [發明之效果] 根據本發明,將第1插入紗與鏈式針織紗於複數個第1接觸部接著,並且將第2插入紗與鏈式針織紗於複數個第2接觸部接著,因此,對於緯圈方向及經圈方向之任一方向均可獲得較高之拉伸強度,並且不管花邊編織物之剪裁方向如何,均可防止散紗之產生。藉此,可防止鏈式針織紗與第1插入紗之位置偏移及鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗之位置偏移,從而可防止因該等位置偏移所引起之格子之變形。 因此,即便由花邊編織物之縫製或剪裁等製造過程所引起之外力、由穿著或洗滌等使用狀態所引起之外力發揮作用,亦可防止格子之變形,從而可長期地保持優異之美觀。而且,針織織入至花邊編織物整體之鏈式針織紗與第1插入紗接著,且鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗接著,因此,於視覺及觸覺上獲得統一性,不會損及美觀及質感而獲得維持伸縮性且質感良好之花邊編織物。此處,「質感」係指手感,良好之質感係指具有柔軟性之手感。如此可獲得美觀良好且質感良好之伸縮性較高之花邊編織物。 又,根據本發明,可防止因接著而變硬之熱熔融性合成樹脂之接著部分直接接觸肌膚,對肌膚之負擔變輕,從而可減輕皮膚損害等。 又,根據本發明,藉由選擇第1插入紗之粗度而可獲得與使用用途相應之穿著壓(服貼感或彈力感)。 又,根據本發明,藉由芯紗與被覆紗之組合、或鏈式針織紗與第2插入紗之粗度之組合而可提高各紗之接著率或改變花邊之衣料感。[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In the above prior art, the chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn are formed in the contact portion to prevent the yarn from being scattered, etc., but there is a problem that it is perpendicular to the direction of the weft. In terms of the tensile force in the direction of the circle, the strength is lower, and a sufficient anti-scattering effect cannot be obtained. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a lace woven fabric which is aesthetically pleasing and has a good texture. [Technical means for solving the problem] The present invention is a lace knitted fabric comprising: a chain knitting yarn, which constitutes a chain knitting structure in which a plurality of annular portions are connected in the weft direction and a plurality of rows are formed in the warp direction. The first insert yarn, which has elastic stretchability, is inserted into each of the loop portions of the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction, and is knitted into the chain knitting structure to impart a weft direction to the chain knitting structure. And a second insertion yarn which is elastically stretchable and stretchable, and which is wound around each annular portion of the chain knitting yarn constituting one chain knitting structure, and knitted with the one chain Each of the annular portions of the chain knitting yarn which is arranged in the chain knitted fabric adjacent to the direction of the ring imparts flexibility to the warp direction of each of the chain knitted fabrics; the first insert yarn is attached to each loop of the chain knitting yarn The position where the portion is in contact with the chain knitting yarn is followed by the second insertion yarn being in contact with each of the loop portions of the chain knitting yarn, followed by the chain knitting yarn. Further, the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn according to the present invention are characterized in that they comprise a composite yarn of a core yarn and a coated yarn, and the core yarn comprises a single fiber yarn of a thermofusible synthetic resin, and the coated yarn comprises A long-fiber yarn made of a heat-meltable synthetic resin having a melting temperature higher than that of a core yarn. Further, the first insertion yarn of the present invention is characterized in that it comprises an elastic yarn of a heat-fusible synthetic resin fiber yarn having a melting temperature higher than that of a core yarn of a chain knitting yarn and having a fineness of 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less. Further, the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn of the present invention are characterized in that they have an elastic yarn having a fineness of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less. Advantageous Effects of Invention According to the present invention, the first insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are followed by the plurality of first contact portions, and the second insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are joined to the plurality of second contact portions. A higher tensile strength can be obtained for either the weft direction and the warp direction, and the generation of the skein can be prevented regardless of the cutting direction of the lace woven fabric. Thereby, the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarn and the first insertion yarn and the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn can be prevented, and deformation of the lattice due to the positional displacement can be prevented. Therefore, even if an external force caused by a manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of the lace knitted fabric is exerted by an external force caused by wearing or washing, the deformation of the lattice can be prevented, and excellent aesthetics can be maintained for a long period of time. Further, the knitting yarn woven into the entire lace knit fabric and the first insertion yarn are followed by the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn, thereby achieving uniformity in visual and tactile sense without damaging the appearance. A lace fabric that maintains stretchability and has a good texture is obtained by texture. Here, "texture" means a touch, and a good texture means a soft touch. In this way, a lace woven fabric having a high aesthetic appearance and a high texture and high stretchability can be obtained. Moreover, according to the present invention, it is possible to prevent the subsequent portion of the heat-meltable synthetic resin which is hardened by the contact from directly contacting the skin, and the burden on the skin is lightened, thereby reducing skin damage and the like. Moreover, according to the present invention, by selecting the thickness of the first insertion yarn, it is possible to obtain a wearing pressure (a feeling of clothing or a feeling of elasticity) according to the intended use. Moreover, according to the present invention, the combination of the core yarn and the coated yarn or the combination of the thickness of the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn can improve the adhesion ratio of each yarn or change the clothing feeling of the lace.

圖1係表示作為本發明之一實施形態之花邊編織物20之一部分之編織組織圖,圖2係將鏈式針織紗21及第1、第2插入紗22、23以外之紗省略而表示花邊編織物20之編織組織圖。該等圖1、圖2係為了易於理解而模式性地表示編織組織者,花邊編織物20之實物之編織組織成為如下狀態,即,第1環狀部分24及第2環狀部分25之曲率半徑較小,且各紗21、22、23極其接近或接觸。圖1中,為了易於理解,而對鏈式針織紗21標註向左下降之斜線之影線且對第1插入紗23標註向右下降之斜線之影線而表示。圖2中省略各紗21、23之厚度而表示。 再者,於本實施形態中,將利用各紗21~23編織而成之編織物稱為前體編織物。花邊編織物20係將前體編織物加熱而成者。進而,將使用花邊編織物20所製造之製品稱為編織有花邊之製品。 本實施形態之花邊編織物20係經編織物,其係經拉舍爾經編之拉舍爾經編織物,且係具有伸縮性之彈力編織物。花邊編織物20係利用包含鏈式針織紗21、第2插入紗22、及第1插入紗23之紗所編織,藉由該等紗21~23而形成複數個格子,並且形成由各格子分別包圍之複數個透孔。 此種花邊編織物20藉由格子之形狀及配置而形成花邊花紋。又,花邊編織物20包含每單位面積所配置之紗之量密集之圖案部、及每單位面積所配置之紗之量稀疏之基底部,藉由該等圖案部及基底部之形狀及配置而形成圖案花紋。此種帶有圖案花紋之花邊編織物20例如用於製造女性用貼身衣物等編織有花邊之製品。 如圖1所示,花邊編織物20包括:鏈式針織紗21,其形成具有複數個環狀部分24、25之拉舍爾經編之鏈式針織組織19;第1插入紗23,其具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性,用以於緯圈方向C針織織入至鏈式針織組織19而對鏈式針織組織19賦予緯圈方向C之伸縮性;及第2插入紗22,其彈性伸縮,且繞掛於形成1個鏈式針織組織19之鏈式針織紗21之各第2環狀部分25、及形成於經圈方向W鄰接之鏈式針織組織19之鏈式針織紗21,並對各鏈式針織組織19賦予經圈方向W之伸縮性。鏈式針織紗21有時亦稱為經紗或基礎編織紗。又,第1插入紗23亦稱為伸縮紗,第2插入紗22亦稱為緯紗。 進而,於花邊編織物20,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23於其等之複數個第1接觸部50利用彼此之熱熔合性而接著。鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23於大致所有之第1接觸部50接著。又,於花邊編織物20,於鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之複數個第2接觸部55利用彼此之熱熔合性而接著。鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之大致所有之第2接觸部55接著。 如圖2所示,鏈式針織紗21藉由進行鏈式針織而形成第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25。第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25交替地相連且沿緯圈方向C排列形成複數段。此處,有時將第1環狀部分24稱為織針紗圈,並將第2環狀部分25稱為沈片紗圈。藉由第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25交替地相連且沿緯圈方向C延伸而形成經圈。經圈於經圈方向W排列形成複數個,藉由使其等彼此連結而形成鏈式針織組織、換言之絞花組織。又,藉由鏈式針織紗21適當地橫向環縫並將於經圈方向W鄰接之鏈式針織連結,而形成具有防散紗功能之鏈式針織組織。將鏈式針織紗21橫向環縫之部分稱為防脫針部分42。 各第1環狀部分24大致形成為U字狀,且大致沿預先規定之緯圈方向C及與緯圈方向C正交之經圈方向W排列配置。又,各第1環狀部分24於成為緯圈方向C之一側之緯圈方向前段C1打開。第1環狀部分24沿經圈方向W排成一行而形成緯圈,第1環狀部分24沿緯圈方向C排成一行而形成經圈。 第2環狀部分25將沿緯圈方向C排列之第1環狀部分24連結。例如,注視於1個第2環狀部分25。所注視之第2環狀部分25之一端部與和第2環狀部分25為同一段之第1環狀部分24之端部相連。第2環狀部分25係隨著自一端部朝向另一端部,而將第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向前段C1之第1環狀部分24自一側朝向另一側插通並朝緯圈方向後段C2延伸,並將與第2環狀部分25為同一段之第1環狀部分24自另一側朝向一側插通並朝緯圈方向後段C2延伸,並且與第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24之端部相連。 以此方式將各環狀部分24、25呈鏈狀連結而形成沿緯圈方向C延伸之經圈。第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等各插入紗藉由夾於第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間而針織織入至經圈。 於本實施形態中,緯圈方向C係編織物之縱向,係指花邊編織方向。又,經圈方向W係編織物之橫向,係指相對於花邊編織方向交叉之方向。第1環狀部分24沿緯圈方向C及經圈方向W排列配置有複數個。又,沿緯圈方向C及經圈方向W排列之複數個第1環狀部分24與預先規定之假想平面大致相接地排列。該情形時,第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等針織織入至鏈式針織組織之各針織織入紗係相對於該假想平面而配置於一側。 將各插入紗22、23相對於沿第1環狀部分24延伸之假想平面配置之方向稱為正方向Z1,將上述假想平面相對於各插入紗22、23配置之方向稱為反方向Z2。於圖1及圖2中,將與紙面垂直之厚度方向Z中遠離紙面而朝向近前之方向設為正方向Z1,將與紙面垂直之方向中遠離紙面而朝向裏側之方向設為反方向Z2。 花邊編織物20之正方向Z1之面中,第1環狀部分24因第2插入紗22及第1插入紗23等針織織入紗而隱藏。因此,花邊編織物20之正方向Z1之面與反方向Z2之面相比,形成於花邊編織物20之圖案花紋及花邊花紋更明確。 例如,第2環狀部分25係沿正方向Z1插通該第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向前段C1之第1環狀部分24,並沿反方向Z2插通該第2環狀部分25之緯圈方向同段之第1環狀部分24,並且與緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24相連。 第2插入紗22係用以於鏈式針織組中形成花邊花紋之紗。第2插入紗22藉由分別針織織入至於經圈方向W鄰接之經圈而將於經圈方向W鄰接之2個經圈連結。如圖1所示,第2插入紗22包含自於經圈方向W鄰接之一經圈跨及另一經圈而延伸之橫向環縫部分、及針織織入至經圈之第2插入紗針織織入部分。 在由沿緯圈方向C排列之2個橫向環縫部分與橫向環縫部分連結之經圈所包圍之空間內,形成有沿編織物之厚度方向插通之透孔。藉由選擇性地配置第2插入紗22之橫向環縫部分而可調整透孔之形狀及配置。藉此,可於花邊編織物20中形成根據透孔之配置及形狀而表現之花邊花紋。此處,由橫向環縫部分與經圈所包圍之透孔亦有由下述之圖案紗填埋而形成圖案花紋之情況。 第2插入紗22於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸。第2插入紗22插通預先所設定之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間且沿經圈方向W延伸。又,於本實施形態中,鏈式針織組織中針織織入有複數個第2插入紗22,且各第2插入紗22係沿經圈方向W排列而針織織入。將各第2插入紗22針織織入之位置根據形成於花邊編織物20之花邊花紋而適當選擇。 第1插入紗23藉由與鏈式針織紗21及第2插入紗22相比具有同等之熔點溫度之紗而實現。於本實施形態中,使用於花邊編織物編織後進行之加熱步驟中之加熱狀態下局部熔融之紗。第1插入紗23除用以對花邊編織物20賦予延展性以外,亦用以防止所構成之鏈式針織紗21及第2插入紗22之散紗。於本實施形態中,第1插入紗23係藉由非被覆紗、即未由被覆紗被覆之裸紗、所謂裸紗線(bare yarn)而實現,藉由熔融溫度為約200℃以上且250℃以下之聚胺基甲酸酯彈性紗而實現。第1插入紗23以相對於自然狀態伸展之狀態針織織入至鏈式針織組織。鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22中使用之聚胺基甲酸酯芯紗由於熔點較第1插入紗23中使用之聚胺基甲酸酯紗低,故而其等熔融,並與第1插入紗23熔合,藉此可防止散紗。 第1插入紗23沿經圈延伸,並針織織入至構成經圈之所有環狀部分。因此,於鏈式針織組織中,第1插入紗23針織織入至每單位面積之紗之量稀疏之基底部分、及每單位面積之紗之量較基底部分密集之圖案部分之兩者。又,於本實施形態中,花邊編織物20包含複數個第1插入紗23,各第1插入紗23分別針織織入至每一經圈。如此,遍及鏈式針織組織之全部區域而將第1插入紗23針織織入。 第1插入紗23於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸,且於較第2環狀部分25更靠反方向Z2之區域延伸。第1插入紗23隨著沿著對應之經圈沿緯圈方向C行進而呈鋸齒狀行進。例如,第1插入紗23若自經圈方向一側W1向經圈方向另一側W2通過所注視之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間,則會自經圈方向另一側W2向經圈方向一側W1通過所注視之第1環狀部分24之緯圈方向後段C2之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間。此種第1插入紗23之每次編於緯圈時亦可藉由與上述組織不同之組織而實現。 於剛編織後,第1插入紗23於較第1環狀部分24更靠正方向Z1之區域延伸,且於較第2插入紗22更靠花邊編織物20之反方向Z2之區域延伸。因此,於第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22插通相同之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間之區域,第1插入紗23插通第1環狀部分24與第2插入紗22之間。又,第2插入紗22插通第1插入紗23與第2環狀部分25之間。該情形時,藉由將鏈式針織紗21於緯圈方向C拉伸而第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之曲率半徑變小,從而第1插入紗23配置於第2插入紗22與第1環狀部分24之間,且與第2插入紗22及第1環狀部分24接觸。 於本實施形態中,於第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22插通相同之第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25之間之區域,第1插入紗23與第2插入紗22彼此交叉且通過第1環狀部分24與第2環狀部分25。具體而言,第1插入紗23自所注視之第1環狀部分24與緯圈方向前段C1之第2環狀部分25相連之側通過所注視之第1環狀部分24及緯圈方向同段之第2環狀部分25。 圖3係表示編織前之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖,圖4係表示編織成花邊編織物20之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。鏈式針織紗21於編織成花邊編織物20之狀態下為如圖1、圖2所示之形狀,但於圖4中,為了易於理解而以呈直線狀延伸之狀態表示。鏈式針織紗21係將被覆紗31呈螺旋狀纏繞至具有伸縮性之芯紗30而成之紗。芯紗30係包含熱塑性合成樹脂之單纖維紗(長絲紗),例如包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯。被覆紗31係由包含合成樹脂之複數個長纖維所構成之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚醯胺(商標名:尼龍)。 鏈式針織紗21於編織前之狀態下,如圖3所示,以被覆紗31彼此相互接觸而芯紗30不露出之方式由被覆紗31覆蓋。鏈式針織紗21利用芯紗30之伸縮性而以如圖4所示般伸展之狀態編織。鏈式針織紗21於伸展之狀態下成為如下狀態,即,於被覆紗31之間形成有螺旋狀之間隙,且芯紗30自該間隙露出。 第2插入紗22係包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗之芯紗、由包含合成樹脂之複數個長纖維所構成之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚醯胺(商標名:尼龍)、嫘縈、聚酯等。第1插入紗23係亦稱為斯潘德克斯彈性纖維之紗,且係包含具有伸縮性之材料之長纖維紗(長絲紗線),例如包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯。 鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23均包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,但包含種類互不相同之聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,且芯紗30之熔融溫度較第1插入紗23之熔融溫度(約200~250℃)低。芯紗30之熔融溫度為約140~190℃,較被覆紗31、第2插入紗22、第1插入紗23之各熔融溫度低,且具有熱塑性。如此,鏈式針織紗21係包含含有熔融溫度較低之材料之芯紗30之紗。又,第2插入紗22之芯紗亦可為熔融溫度與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30為相同程度。 圖5係表示本實施形態之花邊編織物20之製造步驟之一例之流程圖。首先,於步驟a0中,完成用於編織花邊編織物20之各紗之選擇、應形成於花邊編織物20之圖案花紋之決定、及用以形成所需之編織組織之編織物之設計等而完成編織物編織之準備時,進入至步驟a1,開始製造花邊編織物20。 於作為編織物編織步驟之步驟a1中,使用作為拉舍爾經編機之編織機,編織成為花邊編織物20之前體之前體編織物。編織機按照步驟a0中設計之編織順序,將第1插入紗23、第2插入紗22等各紗21、22、23針織織入至鏈式針織紗21,編織與圖1所示之花邊編織物20相同之編織組織之前體編織物。 於前體編織物中,鏈式針織紗21及第1插入紗23具有伸縮性。編織機於使具有伸縮性之紗伸長之狀態下執行編織動作。前體編織物藉由以伸長狀態針織織入之紗之回復力而於編織後收縮,若該伸縮性維持至花邊編織物20,則花邊編織物20成為具有伸縮性之彈力花邊編織物。如此般完成前體編織物之編織時,進入至步驟a2。 於作為染色步驟之步驟a2中,對步驟a1中所編織之前體編織物進行染色,染色完成時,移至步驟a3。於步驟a3中,將經染色之前體編織物加熱至鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30之熔融溫度以上且未達芯紗30以外之紗22、23、31之熔融溫度之溫度。於步驟a3中對前體編織物進行加熱時,使前體編織物伸展,將鏈式針織紗21以如圖4所示般伸長之狀態加熱。藉此,以鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30局部露出之狀態加熱而熔融。又,第2插入紗22之芯紗亦可為熔融溫度與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30為相同程度。 因此,於鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50中的第1插入紗23與芯紗30露出之部分接觸之第1接觸部50,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23接著。又,於鏈式針織紗21彼此之第2接觸部55中的芯紗30露出之部分彼此接觸之第2接觸部55,鏈式針織紗21彼此接著。此種接觸部50、55成為熔融芯紗通過被覆紗之特性狀、彎曲部之最中心側之形態,且係接著概率最高之部位,但有如下情形,即,於該等接觸部50、55以外之位置熔融芯紗亦露出,若於與其他纖維接觸之狀態下定型,則形成接著部分。 鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23雖然種類不同,但均包含聚酯系聚胺基甲酸酯,因此,藉由芯紗30熔融而容易熱熔合併接著。又,鏈式針織紗21之被覆紗31包含聚醯胺,不易與芯紗30接著,藉由以如上所述之第1接觸部50之大部分接著之方式對定型溫度及定型時間進行調整,而於熔融芯紗與伸縮用聚胺基甲酸酯紗之情形時,可將鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30與第1插入紗23於第1接觸部50以約60~90%之接著率接著。進而,於鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部55,芯紗30露出之部分彼此接觸,且以約50~80%之接著率接著。 如此般將前體編織物加熱,使鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50之一部分接著,並且使鏈式針織紗21彼此之第2接觸部55之一部分接著,形成花邊編織物20,而進入至步驟a4。於步驟a4中,將所形成之花邊編織物20切割(寬幅之情形時維持原樣),於步驟a5中結束花邊編織物20之製造作業。因於步驟a2中對前體編織物進行加熱而鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30熔融,因此,損及伸縮性,但第1插入紗23僅加熱至未達熔融溫度之溫度,故而可維持伸縮性。因此,花邊編織物20具有伸縮性。 根據如上所述之本實施形態之花邊編織物20,具有伸縮性之第1插入紗23針織織入至鏈式針織組織19而對鏈式針織組織賦予伸縮性,從而可實現具有伸縮性之花邊編織物。又,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50之一部分接著,並且鏈式針織紗21彼此或鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部55之一部分相互接著。藉此,可防止鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之位置偏移、及鏈式針織紗21彼此或鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之位置偏移,從而可防止格子之變形。例如,即便由花邊編織物之縫製或剪裁等製造過程所引起之外力、由穿著或洗滌等使用狀態所引起之外力發揮作用,亦可防止格子之變形而維持格子之形狀,從而可獲得美觀良好之花邊編織物,而且,可長期地保持該優異之美觀。 利用針織織入至花邊編織物20整體之鏈式針織紗21、第1插入紗23及第2插入紗22之熱熔合性而將鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23接著,並將鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22接著,因此,並非局部使用不同之紗之構成,從而於視覺及觸覺上獲得統一性,且不會損及美觀及質感。進而,使利用被覆紗31覆蓋芯紗30而成之鏈式針織紗21伸長,而於芯紗30露出之部分接著,因此,不會產生被覆紗31之表面由芯紗30之熔融物覆蓋之情況,於使花邊編織物20及使用其而製造之編織有花邊之製品與肌膚接觸時,芯紗30之熔融物不與肌膚接觸,而被覆紗31與肌膚接觸。被覆紗31係複數個單纖維之集合體,因此,可獲得柔軟柔和之感觸,且可保持良好之質感。此處之質感係指手感,良好之質感係指具有柔軟性且具有柔和感之手感。 又,鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之第1接觸部50、及鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之第2接觸部5大致全部接著,因此,可獲得美觀良好且質感優異之伸縮性之花邊編織物,其針對緯圈方向C及經圈方向W之任一方向均儘可能地防止容易對格子之變形造成影響之鏈式針織紗21與第1插入紗23之位置偏移、及鏈式針織紗21與第2插入紗22之位置偏移,不會損及伸縮性及柔軟性,且於較高之拉伸強度下不易產生散紗。 作為上述熱定型步驟之步驟a3中之加熱條件設定為鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30熔融並且可防止包括芯紗30以外之紗之脆性化在內之特性變化的加熱條件。又,加熱步驟中之加熱條件較佳為設定為將芯紗30加熱至可保持作為紗之形態之程度之溫度的加熱條件。藉此,可使得芯紗30之熔融物不出現於編織物之表面而不易與肌膚接觸。 關於加熱條件,設定例如加熱溫度與加熱時間。將芯紗30熔融之最低熔融溫度設為B1,將以最低熔融溫度加熱時直至軟化為止之時間設為D1。又,將芯紗30以外之紗之特性變化之最低特性變化溫度設為B2,並將以最低特性變化溫度加熱時直至特性產生變化為止之時間設為D2。該情形時,於本實施形態中,若將加熱步驟中之加熱溫度設為B3,並將加熱時間設為D3,則設定為B1<B3<B2、D1<D3<D2。進而,將B3設為儘可能接近於B1之值,並將D3設為儘可能接近於D1之值,藉此可容易地保持芯紗30之作為紗之形態。 於本實施形態中,作為鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30,使用10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下、較佳為10丹尼以上且70丹尼以下之聚酯系熱塑性聚胺基甲酸酯彈性紗。又,以170℃以上且195℃以下之加熱溫度、30 sec以上且90 sec以下之加熱時間進行熱處理。藉此,可使芯紗30熔融,並且可防止剩餘之紗之特性變化。又,第1插入紗22之纖度例如選擇為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下。第2插入紗21之芯紗亦可使用與鏈式針織紗21之芯紗30相同者。 例如,於使加熱時間固定之情形時,若將加熱溫度設為未達170℃,則基於熔融後之芯紗30之接著力變小。又,若加熱溫度超過195℃,則難以保持芯紗30之作為紗之形態,而且,有芯紗30以外之紗之特性產生變化之虞。相對於此,於本實施形態中,可藉由如上述般將加熱溫度設為170℃以上且195℃以下而防止產生上述問題。 芯紗30越細,則接著部越接近於點接點而變小,從而質感變佳,芯紗30越粗,則接著部越大而損及質感。為將芯紗30加粗且保持良好之質感,考慮將被覆紗31加粗,但鏈式針織紗21會變粗,從而損及花邊編織物之通透感。又,芯紗30越細則接著強度越小,芯紗30越粗則接著強度越大。又,藉由芯紗30與被覆紗之組合而可形成與用途相應之衣料感。進而,藉由將各個紗本身設定為較粗或進行組合,亦可謀求破裂強度之提昇。 因此,於芯紗30為未達10丹尼之較細之紗之情形時,有強度變得過小之問題,於芯紗30為超過140丹尼之較粗之紗之情形時,有損及質感之問題。藉由將芯紗30設為10丹尼以上且140丹尼以下而可獲得無強度上之不足且良好之質感。就相同之觀點而言,較佳為將芯紗30設為10丹尼以上且50丹尼以下。 又,花邊編織物20係如上所述使第1及第2接觸部50、55接著,故而有防止紗之散紗發展之效果。因此,例如可對花邊編織物20以稱為花紋切割及自由切割等之方式進行任意形狀之剪裁。因此,於經圈方向W及緯圈方向C之任一方向上均具有較高之伸縮性與形態穩定性,可藉由模塑加工等而進行立體成形。 以此方式製造之花邊編織物20於剪裁步驟a4中,為了形成女性用內衣等之所需之立體形狀,例如以180℃進行模塑成型加工,剪裁成個別之加工品,於步驟a5中結束製造作業。 本發明之花邊編織物20係如上所述使第1及使第2接觸部50、55接著,可防止紗之散紗,故而可設為未形成防脫針部42或者防脫針部42較少之構成。若設為無防脫針部42或者防脫針部42較少之構成,則可不進行或者減少鏈式針織紗21之橫穿,從而可提昇美觀且提昇品質。 上述實施形態僅為本發明之例示,可對構成進行變更。例如,各紗21~23之材質等可適當變更。Fig. 1 is a view showing a knitting structure of a portion of a lace knitted fabric 20 according to an embodiment of the present invention, and Fig. 2 shows a yarn which is omitted from the yarns of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23. The braided tissue diagram of the braid 20. In the drawings, FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 schematically show the knit organizer for easy understanding, and the knit structure of the actual material of the lace knitted fabric 20 is such that the curvature of the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 is The radius is small and the yarns 21, 22, 23 are in close proximity or contact. In FIG. 1, for the sake of easy understanding, the chain knitting yarn 21 is indicated by a hatching which is inclined downward to the left, and the first inserted yarn 23 is indicated by a hatching which is inclined downward to the right. The thickness of each of the yarns 21 and 23 is omitted in Fig. 2 . Further, in the present embodiment, the knitted fabric woven by the respective yarns 21 to 23 is referred to as a precursor knitted fabric. The lace braid 20 is a structure in which a precursor braid is heated. Further, a product manufactured using the lace knitted fabric 20 is referred to as a knitted product. The lace knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment is a warp knitted fabric which is a Raschel warp knitted warp knitted fabric and has a stretchable elastic knitted fabric. The lace knitted fabric 20 is knitted by a yarn including the chain knitting yarn 21, the second insertion yarn 22, and the first insertion yarn 23, and the plurality of lattices are formed by the yarns 21 to 23, and each of the lattices is formed. A plurality of through holes surrounded by. Such a lace knitted fabric 20 is formed into a lace pattern by the shape and arrangement of the lattice. Further, the lace knitted fabric 20 includes a pattern portion in which the amount of the yarn disposed per unit area is dense, and a base portion in which the amount of the yarn disposed per unit area is sparse, and the shape and arrangement of the pattern portion and the base portion are used. Form a pattern. Such a patterned lace fabric 20 is used, for example, to manufacture a lace-knitted article such as a female close-fitting garment. As shown in Fig. 1, the lace knit 20 comprises: a chain knitting yarn 21 which forms a raschel warp knitting chain knit structure 19 having a plurality of annular portions 24, 25; a first insertion yarn 23 having The elastic expansion and contraction is used for knitting in the weft direction C to the chain knit structure 19 to impart flexibility to the chain knit structure 19 in the weft direction C; and the second insertion yarn 22 is elastically stretchable, and Each of the second annular portions 25 of the chain knitting yarn 21 forming the one chain knitting structure 19 and the chain knitting yarn 21 formed in the chain knitting structure 19 adjacent to the warp direction W are attached to each The chain knit structure 19 imparts stretchability in the warp direction W. The chain knitting yarn 21 is sometimes also referred to as a warp yarn or a base knitting yarn. Further, the first insertion yarn 23 is also referred to as a stretch yarn, and the second insertion yarn 22 is also referred to as a weft yarn. Further, in the lace knitted fabric 20, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the plurality of first contact portions 50 of the first insertion yarn 23 are followed by thermal fusion properties. The chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are followed by substantially all of the first contact portions 50. Further, in the lace knitted fabric 20, the plurality of second contact portions 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are followed by thermal fusion properties. The chain knitting yarn 21 is followed by substantially all of the second contact portions 55 of the second insertion yarn 22. As shown in FIG. 2, the chain knitting yarn 21 is formed by chain knitting to form the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25. The first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 are alternately connected and arranged in the weft direction C to form a plurality of segments. Here, the first annular portion 24 may be referred to as a knitting yarn loop, and the second annular portion 25 may be referred to as a sinker loop. The first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 are alternately connected and extend in the weft direction C to form a warp. A plurality of warp circles are arranged in the warp direction W to form a chain knitted structure, in other words, a twisted tissue, by joining them to each other. Further, the chain knitting yarn 21 is appropriately laterally looped and joined by chain knitting adjacent to the warp direction W to form a chain knit structure having a function of preventing the yarn from being scattered. The portion of the chain knitting yarn 21 which is laterally looped is referred to as an anti-drop portion 42. Each of the first annular portions 24 is formed substantially in a U shape, and is arranged substantially in a predetermined weft direction C and a warp direction W orthogonal to the weft direction C. Further, each of the first annular portions 24 is opened in the weft direction front portion C1 which is one side of the weft direction C. The first annular portion 24 is formed in a row in the warp direction W to form a weft ring, and the first annular portion 24 is lined up in the weft direction C to form a warp. The second annular portion 25 connects the first annular portions 24 arranged in the weft direction C. For example, it looks at one second annular portion 25. One end portion of the second annular portion 25 to be seen is connected to the end portion of the first annular portion 24 which is the same as the second annular portion 25. The second annular portion 25 is inserted from the one side toward the other side in the weft direction of the first annular portion 24 of the second annular portion 25 in the weft direction from the one end portion toward the other end portion. The rear end portion C2 extends in the ring direction, and the first annular portion 24 that is in the same section as the second annular portion 25 is inserted from the other side toward the one side and extends toward the rear portion C2 in the weft direction, and the second annular portion The end portions of the first annular portion 24 of the rear portion C2 of the weft direction of 25 are connected. In this way, the annular portions 24, 25 are connected in a chain shape to form a warp extending in the weft direction C. Each of the insertion yarns, such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23, is knitted and woven into the warp by being interposed between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25. In the present embodiment, the weft direction C is the longitudinal direction of the knitted fabric, which means the direction in which the lace is knitted. Further, the lateral direction of the W-woven fabric in the warp direction means a direction intersecting with respect to the lace weaving direction. The first annular portion 24 is arranged in a plurality of rows in the weft direction C and the warp direction W. Further, a plurality of first annular portions 24 arranged in the weft direction C and the warp direction W are arranged substantially in line with a predetermined virtual plane. In this case, each of the knit woven yarns knitted into the chain knit structure, such as the second insertion yarns 22 and the first insertion yarns 23, are disposed on one side with respect to the virtual plane. The direction in which the respective insertion yarns 22 and 23 are arranged with respect to the virtual plane extending along the first annular portion 24 is referred to as a positive direction Z1, and the direction in which the above-described virtual planes are disposed with respect to the respective insertion yarns 22 and 23 is referred to as a reverse direction Z2. In FIGS. 1 and 2, a direction away from the paper surface in the thickness direction Z perpendicular to the paper surface is referred to as a forward direction Z1, and a direction away from the paper surface in the direction perpendicular to the paper surface toward the back side is referred to as a reverse direction Z2. In the surface of the lace braid 20 in the positive direction Z1, the first annular portion 24 is hidden by the knitting of the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23. Therefore, the pattern of the lace fabric 20 and the lace pattern are more clear than the surface of the lace braid 20 in the positive direction Z1 and the surface of the reverse direction Z2. For example, the second annular portion 25 is inserted into the first annular portion 24 of the front end portion C1 of the second annular portion 25 in the weft direction in the positive direction Z1, and is inserted into the second annular portion 25 in the reverse direction Z2. The first annular portion 24 of the same section of the weft direction is connected to the first annular portion 24 of the rear section C2 in the weft direction. The second insertion yarn 22 is used to form a lace pattern yarn in a chain knitting group. The second insertion yarns 22 are knitted by knitting into the warp rings adjacent to each other in the warp direction W, and are joined by two warps that are adjacent in the warp direction W. As shown in FIG. 1, the second insertion yarn 22 includes a transverse loop portion extending from one of the warp direction W and a loop span, and a second insert yarn knitted and woven into the warp. section. A through hole that is inserted in the thickness direction of the braid is formed in a space surrounded by the warp ring in which the two lateral loop portions arranged in the weft direction C and the transverse loop portion are joined. The shape and arrangement of the through holes can be adjusted by selectively arranging the lateral loop portions of the second insertion yarns 22. Thereby, a lace pattern which is expressed in accordance with the arrangement and shape of the through holes can be formed in the lace knitted fabric 20. Here, the through hole surrounded by the lateral loop portion and the warp may be filled with the pattern yarn described below to form a pattern. The second insertion yarn 22 extends in a region closer to the positive direction Z1 than the first annular portion 24. The second insertion yarn 22 is inserted between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 which are set in advance, and extends in the warp direction W. Further, in the present embodiment, a plurality of second insertion yarns 22 are knitted and knitted in the chain knit structure, and each of the second insertion yarns 22 is knitted in the warp direction W and knitted. The position at which each of the second insertion yarns 22 is knitted and woven is appropriately selected in accordance with the lace pattern formed on the lace knitted fabric 20. The first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a yarn having a melting temperature equivalent to that of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22. In the present embodiment, the yarn partially melted in a heated state in the heating step performed after the lace knitted fabric is knitted is used. In addition to imparting ductility to the lace-knitted fabric 20, the first insertion yarn 23 is also used to prevent the skein of the knit knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 which are formed. In the present embodiment, the first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a non-coated yarn, that is, a bare yarn that is not covered with a coated yarn, a so-called bare yarn, and has a melting temperature of about 200 ° C or higher and 250. It is achieved by a polyurethane elastic yarn below °C. The first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the chain knit structure in a state of being stretched with respect to the natural state. The polyurethane yarn used in the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 has a lower melting point than the polyurethane yarn used in the first insertion yarn 23, so that it is melted and the like. 1 The inserted yarn 23 is fused, whereby the loose yarn can be prevented. The first insertion yarn 23 extends along the warp and is knitted into all the annular portions constituting the warp. Therefore, in the chain knit structure, the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the base portion where the amount of the yarn per unit area is sparse, and the amount of the yarn per unit area is larger than the pattern portion where the base portion is dense. Further, in the present embodiment, the lace knitted fabric 20 includes a plurality of first insertion yarns 23, and each of the first insertion yarns 23 is knitted and woven into each warp. In this manner, the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted and woven throughout the entire area of the chain knit structure. The first insertion yarn 23 extends in a region in the positive direction Z1 from the first annular portion 24 and extends in a region in the opposite direction Z2 from the second annular portion 25. The first insertion yarn 23 travels in a zigzag shape as it travels along the corresponding warp direction in the weft direction C. For example, when the first insertion yarn 23 passes between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 which are viewed from the side in the warp direction W1 toward the other side W2 in the warp direction, the first insertion yarn 23 is different from the warp direction. The one side W2 passes between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 of the rear portion C2 in the weft direction of the first annular portion 24 that is viewed in the direction of the circumferential direction W1. Each of the first insertion yarns 23 can be realized by a structure different from the above-described structure when it is knitted in the weft. Immediately after the knitting, the first insertion yarn 23 extends in a region in the positive direction Z1 from the first annular portion 24, and extends in a region opposite to the opposite direction Z2 of the lace knitted fabric 20 from the second insertion yarn 22. Therefore, when the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 are inserted into the same region between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25, the first insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the first annular portion 24 and The second insertion yarn 22 is interposed. Further, the second insertion yarn 22 is inserted between the first insertion yarn 23 and the second annular portion 25. In this case, by stretching the chain knitting yarn 21 in the weft direction C, the radius of curvature of the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25 is reduced, and the first insertion yarn 23 is placed in the second insertion. The yarn 22 and the first annular portion 24 are in contact with the second insertion yarn 22 and the first annular portion 24. In the present embodiment, the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 are inserted into the region between the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25, and the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn are inserted. 22 intersects each other and passes through the first annular portion 24 and the second annular portion 25. Specifically, the first insertion yarn 23 passes through the first annular portion 24 and the latitudinal direction in which the first annular portion 24 that is in contact with the second annular portion 25 in the latitudinal direction of the front portion C1 is connected. The second annular portion 25 of the segment. 3 is a front view showing a portion of the chain knitting yarn 21 before weaving, and FIG. 4 is a front view showing a portion of the chain knitting yarn 21 knitted into the lace knitted fabric 20. The chain knitting yarn 21 has a shape as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 in a state of being knitted into the lace knitted fabric 20. However, in Fig. 4, it is shown in a state of being linearly extended for easy understanding. The chain knitting yarn 21 is a yarn obtained by spirally winding the covered yarn 31 to the stretchable core yarn 30. The core yarn 30 is a single fiber yarn (filament yarn) containing a thermoplastic synthetic resin, and contains, for example, a polyester-based polyurethane. The covered yarn 31 is a long-fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers including a synthetic resin, and contains, for example, polyamine (trade name: nylon). As shown in FIG. 3, the chain knitting yarn 21 is covered with the covering yarn 31 so that the covering yarns 31 are in contact with each other and the core yarn 30 is not exposed, as shown in FIG. The chain knitting yarn 21 is knitted in a state of being stretched as shown in Fig. 4 by the stretchability of the core yarn 30. The chain knitting yarn 21 is in a state of being stretched, that is, a spiral gap is formed between the covered yarns 31, and the core yarn 30 is exposed from the gap. The second insertion yarn 22 includes a core yarn of a single fiber yarn made of a thermofusible synthetic resin, a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers including a synthetic resin, and for example, a polyamide (trademark) Name: Nylon), enamel, polyester, etc. The first insertion yarn 23 is also called a spandex elastic fiber yarn, and is a long-fiber yarn (filament yarn) containing a stretchable material, and contains, for example, a polyester-based polyurethane. The core yarn 30 and the first insertion yarn 23 of the chain knitting yarn 21 each contain a polyester-based polyurethane, but contain a polyester-based polyurethane having a different type and a melting of the core yarn 30. The temperature is lower than the melting temperature (about 200 to 250 ° C) of the first insertion yarn 23 . The core yarn 30 has a melting temperature of about 140 to 190 ° C, and has a lower melting temperature than the covering yarn 31, the second insertion yarn 22, and the first insertion yarn 23, and has thermoplasticity. Thus, the chain knitting yarn 21 is a yarn comprising a core yarn 30 containing a material having a lower melting temperature. Further, the core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have a melting temperature equal to that of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. Fig. 5 is a flow chart showing an example of a manufacturing procedure of the lace knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment. First, in step a0, the selection of each yarn for knitting the lace knitted fabric 20, the determination of the pattern to be formed on the lace knitted fabric 20, the design of the knitted fabric for forming the desired knitted structure, and the like are completed. When the preparation of the knit knitting is completed, the process proceeds to step a1 to start the manufacture of the lace knitted fabric 20. In the step a1 as the braid weaving step, the body knitted fabric is knitted as a front body of the lace fabric 20 by using a knitting machine as a raschel warp knitting machine. The knitting machine knits the yarns 21, 22, and 23 of the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 into the chain knitting yarn 21 in accordance with the knitting sequence designed in the step a0, and weaves the knitting yarn shown in Fig. 1. The fabric 20 is identical to the woven tissue precursor knit. In the precursor knitted fabric, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 have stretchability. The knitting machine performs the weaving operation in a state in which the stretchable yarn is stretched. The precursor knitted fabric is shrunk after knitting by the restoring force of the woven yarn which is knitted in an extended state, and if the stretchability is maintained to the lace knitted fabric 20, the lace knitted fabric 20 becomes a stretchable elastic lace knitted fabric. When the knitting of the precursor knitted fabric is completed in this manner, the process proceeds to step a2. In the step a2 as the dyeing step, the precursor knitted fabric knitted in the step a1 is dyed, and when the dyeing is completed, the process proceeds to the step a3. In the step a3, the body knitted fabric before dyeing is heated to a temperature higher than the melting temperature of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and less than the melting temperature of the yarns 22, 23, 31 other than the core yarn 30. When the precursor knitted fabric is heated in the step a3, the precursor knitted fabric is stretched, and the chain knitting yarn 21 is heated in a state of being elongated as shown in Fig. 4. Thereby, the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is partially heated and melted. Further, the core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have a melting temperature equal to that of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. Therefore, the first contact portion 50 in which the first insertion yarn 23 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion portion 50 of the first insertion yarn 23 is in contact with the exposed portion of the core yarn 30, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first Insert the yarn 23 followed. Further, the chain knitting yarns 21 are next to each other in the second contact portions 55 in which the portions of the second contact portions 55 of the chain knitting yarns 21 that are exposed by the core yarns 30 are in contact with each other. The contact portions 50 and 55 are in a form in which the molten core yarn passes through the characteristic shape of the covered yarn and the most central side of the curved portion, and the portion having the highest probability of follow-up, but there are cases in which the contact portions 50 and 55 are present. The molten core yarn is exposed at a position other than that, and if it is shaped in contact with other fibers, the succeeding portion is formed. Although the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are different in type, they all contain a polyester-based polyurethane, and therefore, the core yarn 30 is melted, and it is easy to heat-melt and merge. Further, the coated yarn 31 of the chain knitting yarn 21 contains polyamine, and it is difficult to follow the core yarn 30, and the setting temperature and the setting time are adjusted by the majority of the first contact portion 50 as described above. In the case of the molten core yarn and the stretched polyurethane yarn, the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insert yarn 23 can be wound by about 60 to 90% in the first contact portion 50. The rate goes on. Further, in the second contact portion 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22, the portions where the core yarn 30 is exposed are in contact with each other, and are followed by a bonding ratio of about 50 to 80%. The precursor knitted fabric is heated in such a manner that the chain knitting yarn 21 is partially connected to one of the first contact portions 50 of the first insertion yarn 23, and one of the second contact portions 55 of the chain knitting yarns 21 is partially joined to form a portion. Lace the braid 20 and proceed to step a4. In the step a4, the formed lace knitted fabric 20 is cut (when the width is maintained as it is), and the manufacturing operation of the lace knitted fabric 20 is completed in the step a5. Since the core knitted fabric 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted by heating the precursor knitted fabric in the step a2, the stretchability is impaired, but the first inserted yarn 23 is heated only to a temperature that does not reach the melting temperature, so that it can be maintained. Scalability. Therefore, the lace braid 20 has stretchability. According to the lace knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment as described above, the stretchable first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the chain knit structure 19 to impart stretchability to the chain knit structure, thereby realizing stretchable lace. Braid. Further, the chain knitting yarn 21 and a portion of the first contact portion 50 of the first insertion yarn 23 are partially followed, and the chain knitting yarns 21 or a portion of the second knitting portion 21 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are adjacent to each other. Follow each other. Thereby, the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23, and the positional deviation of the chain knitting yarns 21 or the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 can be prevented, thereby preventing the lattice. Deformation. For example, even if an external force is caused by a manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of the lace knitted fabric, and an external force is caused by a wearing state such as wearing or washing, the lattice shape can be prevented from being deformed and the shape of the lattice can be maintained, thereby obtaining a good appearance. The lace braid is also capable of maintaining the excellent appearance for a long period of time. The chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are knitted by the knit knitting yarn 21 knitted by the entire knitted fabric 20, the first insertion yarn 23, and the second insertion yarn 22, and the chain is followed by the chain. Since the knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are attached to each other, the composition of the different yarns is not partially used, so that uniformity is obtained visually and tactilely, and the appearance and texture are not impaired. Further, the chain knitting yarn 21 which is covered with the core yarn 30 by the covering yarn 31 is stretched, and the portion where the core yarn 30 is exposed is followed. Therefore, the surface of the covering yarn 31 is not covered by the melt of the core yarn 30. In the case where the lace knitted fabric 20 and the lace-knitted product produced using the same, the molten product of the core yarn 30 does not come into contact with the skin, and the covered yarn 31 comes into contact with the skin. Since the covered yarn 31 is a collection of a plurality of individual fibers, a soft and soft feeling can be obtained, and a good texture can be maintained. The texture here refers to the hand feeling, and the good texture refers to the softness and softness of the hand. Further, the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first contact portion 50 of the first insertion yarn 23, and the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second contact portion 5 of the second insertion yarn 22 are substantially all connected, so that the appearance is good and the texture is obtained. The excellent stretchable lace woven fabric is configured to prevent the position of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 which are easy to affect the deformation of the lattice as much as possible in either of the weft direction C and the warp direction W. The offset and the position of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are shifted, and the stretchability and flexibility are not impaired, and the yarn is less likely to be generated at a high tensile strength. The heating condition in the step a3 of the heat setting step is set to a heating condition in which the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted and the characteristic including the brittleness of the yarn other than the core yarn 30 is prevented. Further, the heating condition in the heating step is preferably set to a heating condition in which the core yarn 30 is heated to a temperature attainable as a form of the yarn. Thereby, the melt of the core yarn 30 can be prevented from appearing on the surface of the knitted fabric and is not easily contacted with the skin. Regarding the heating conditions, for example, the heating temperature and the heating time are set. The minimum melting temperature at which the core yarn 30 is melted is B1, and the time from heating at the lowest melting temperature to softening is taken as D1. Further, the minimum characteristic change temperature at which the characteristics of the yarn other than the core yarn 30 are changed is B2, and the time until the characteristic changes due to heating at the lowest characteristic change temperature is D2. In this case, in the present embodiment, when the heating temperature in the heating step is B3 and the heating time is D3, B1 < B3 < B2 and D1 < D3 < D2 are set. Further, B3 is set as close as possible to the value of B1, and D3 is set as close as possible to the value of D1, whereby the form of the core yarn 30 as the yarn can be easily maintained. In the present embodiment, as the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21, a polyester-based thermoplastic polyurethane of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less, preferably 10 denier or more and 70 denier or less is used. Ester elastic yarn. Further, the heat treatment is performed at a heating temperature of 170 ° C or more and 195 ° C or less, and a heating time of 30 sec or more and 90 sec or less. Thereby, the core yarn 30 can be melted, and the characteristic change of the remaining yarn can be prevented. Further, the fineness of the first insertion yarn 22 is selected to be, for example, 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less. The core yarn of the second insertion yarn 21 may be the same as the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21. For example, when the heating time is fixed, if the heating temperature is set to less than 170 ° C, the adhesion force of the core yarn 30 after melting becomes small. Further, when the heating temperature exceeds 195 ° C, it is difficult to maintain the form of the core yarn 30 as a yarn, and the characteristics of the yarn other than the core yarn 30 change. On the other hand, in the present embodiment, the above problem can be prevented by setting the heating temperature to 170° C. or higher and 195° C. or lower as described above. The finer the core yarn 30 is, the closer the contact portion is to the point contact, the smaller the texture, the better the texture, and the thicker the core yarn 30, the larger the adhesion portion and the texture is damaged. In order to thicken the core yarn 30 and maintain a good texture, it is considered that the covered yarn 31 is thickened, but the chain knitting yarn 21 becomes thick, thereby impairing the transparency of the lace knitted fabric. Further, the finer the core yarn 30 is, the smaller the strength is, and the thicker the core yarn 30 is, the stronger the strength is. Further, by the combination of the core yarn 30 and the covered yarn, it is possible to form a clothing feeling corresponding to the use. Further, by setting the respective yarns themselves to be thick or combined, it is also possible to improve the burst strength. Therefore, when the core yarn 30 is a fine yarn of less than 10 denier, there is a problem that the strength becomes too small, and when the core yarn 30 is a thick yarn of more than 140 Danny, it is damaged. The problem of texture. By setting the core yarn 30 to 10 denier or more and 140 denier or less, it is possible to obtain a lack of strength and a good texture. From the same viewpoint, it is preferable to set the core yarn 30 to 10 denier or more and 50 denier or less. Further, since the lace knitted fabric 20 is followed by the first and second contact portions 50 and 55 as described above, there is an effect of preventing the development of the yarn of the yarn. Therefore, for example, the lace knitted fabric 20 can be cut in an arbitrary shape in a manner called a pattern cut, a free cut, or the like. Therefore, it has high stretchability and form stability in either of the warp direction W and the weft direction C, and can be formed by molding or the like. The lace woven fabric 20 manufactured in this manner is formed in the cutting step a4 in order to form a desired three-dimensional shape for a woman's underwear or the like, for example, at 180 ° C, and cut into individual processed products, and ends in step a5. Manufacturing operations. The lace woven fabric 20 of the present invention can prevent the yarn from being sewed by the first and second contact portions 50 and 55 as described above. Therefore, the detachment preventing portion 42 or the detachment preventing portion 42 can be formed. Less composition. If the configuration is such that the anti-dropper portion 42 or the anti-dropper portion 42 is small, the traverse of the chain knitting yarn 21 can be eliminated or reduced, and the appearance can be improved and the quality can be improved. The above embodiment is merely an exemplification of the present invention, and the configuration can be changed. For example, the material of each of the yarns 21 to 23 can be appropriately changed.

19‧‧‧鏈式針織組織
20‧‧‧花邊編織物
21‧‧‧鏈式針織紗
22‧‧‧第2插入紗
23‧‧‧第1插入紗
24‧‧‧第1環狀部分
25‧‧‧第2環狀部分
30‧‧‧芯紗
31‧‧‧被覆紗
42‧‧‧防脫針部
50‧‧‧第1接觸部
55‧‧‧第2接觸部
C‧‧‧緯圈方向
C1‧‧‧緯圈方向前段
C2‧‧‧緯圈方向後段
W‧‧‧經圈方向
W1‧‧‧經圈方向一側
W2‧‧‧經圈方向另一側
Z‧‧‧厚度方向
Z1‧‧‧正方向
Z2‧‧‧反方向
19‧‧‧Chain Knitting Organization
20‧‧‧ lace braid
21‧‧‧Chain knitting yarn
22‧‧‧2nd inserted yarn
23‧‧‧1st inserted yarn
24‧‧‧1st ring section
25‧‧‧2nd ring section
30‧‧‧core yarn
31‧‧‧ covered yarn
42‧‧‧Anti-needle
50‧‧‧1st contact
55‧‧‧2nd contact
C‧‧‧ latitude direction
C1‧‧‧ front section of the latitude
C2‧‧‧After the latitude direction
W‧‧‧The direction of the circle
W1‧‧‧ direction side of the circle
W2‧‧‧The other side of the circle
Z‧‧‧ Thickness direction
Z1‧‧‧ positive direction
Z2‧‧‧ reverse direction

圖1係表示作為本發明之一實施形態之花邊編織物20之一部分之編織組織圖。 圖2係將鏈式針織紗21及第1、第2插入紗22、23以外之紗省略而表示花邊編織物20之編織組織圖。 圖3係表示編織前之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。 圖4係表示編織成花邊編織物20之鏈式針織紗21之一部分之前視圖。 圖5係表示本實施形態之花邊編織物20之製造步驟之流程圖。Fig. 1 is a view showing a knitting structure of a part of a lace knitted fabric 20 which is an embodiment of the present invention. 2 is a knitting structure diagram showing the lace knitted fabric 20 by omitting the yarns other than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23. Figure 3 is a front elevational view showing a portion of the chain knitting yarn 21 before weaving. Fig. 4 is a front elevational view showing a portion of the chain knitting yarn 21 knitted into the lace braid 20. Fig. 5 is a flow chart showing the manufacturing steps of the lace knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment.

19‧‧‧鏈式針織組織 19‧‧‧Chain Knitting Organization

20‧‧‧花邊編織物 20‧‧‧ lace braid

21‧‧‧鏈式針織紗 21‧‧‧Chain knitting yarn

22‧‧‧第2插入紗 22‧‧‧2nd inserted yarn

23‧‧‧第1插入紗 23‧‧‧1st inserted yarn

24‧‧‧第1環狀部分 24‧‧‧1st ring section

25‧‧‧第2環狀部分 25‧‧‧2nd ring section

50‧‧‧第1接觸部 50‧‧‧1st contact

55‧‧‧第2接觸部 55‧‧‧2nd contact

C‧‧‧緯圈方向 C‧‧‧ latitude direction

C1‧‧‧緯圈方向前段 C1‧‧‧ front section of the latitude

C2‧‧‧緯圈方向後段 C2‧‧‧After the latitude direction

W‧‧‧經圈方向 W‧‧‧The direction of the circle

W1‧‧‧經圈方向一側 W1‧‧‧ direction side of the circle

W2‧‧‧經圈方向另一側 W2‧‧‧The other side of the circle

Z‧‧‧厚度方向 Z‧‧‧ Thickness direction

Z1‧‧‧正方向 Z1‧‧‧ positive direction

Z2‧‧‧反方向 Z2‧‧‧ reverse direction

Claims (4)

一種花邊編織物,其特徵在於包含: 鏈式針織紗,其構成複數個環狀部分於緯圈方向相連且於經圈方向形成複數行之鏈式針織組織; 第1插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,於緯圈方向插通鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分而針織織入至鏈式針織組織,對鏈式針織組織賦予緯圈方向之伸縮性;及 第2插入紗,其係具有彈性伸縮之伸縮性者,其繞掛於構成1個鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分、及與該1個鏈式針織組織於經圈方向鄰接之鏈式針織組織之鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分,對各鏈式針織組織賦予經圈方向之伸縮性; 第1插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著,且 第2插入紗係於與鏈式針織紗之各環狀部分接觸之位置,與該鏈式針織紗接著。A lace woven fabric comprising: a chain knitting yarn comprising a chain knitting structure in which a plurality of annular portions are connected in the weft direction and forming a plurality of rows in a warp direction; the first inserted yarn has elasticity The stretchable stretcher is inserted into each of the loop portions of the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction, knitted and woven into the chain knit structure, and imparts stretchability in the direction of the weft ring to the chain knit structure; and the second insertion yarn, The elastic stretchable stretcher is wound around each annular portion of the chain knitting yarn constituting one chain knitting structure, and the chain knitting adjacent to the one chain knitting structure in the warp direction. Each of the annular portions of the chain knitting yarn of the tissue imparts stretchability in the warp direction to each of the chain knitted fabrics; the first insert yarn is in contact with each annular portion of the chain knitting yarn, and the chain The knitting yarn is then placed, and the second insertion yarn is placed in contact with each of the loop portions of the chain knitting yarn, and is followed by the chain knitting yarn. 如請求項1之花邊編織物,其中鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗係包含芯紗與被覆紗之複合紗,上述芯紗包含熱熔融性合成樹脂製之單纖維紗,上述被覆紗包含熔融溫度較芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂製之長纖維紗。The lace knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn comprise a composite yarn of a core yarn and a coated yarn, and the core yarn comprises a single fiber yarn of a thermofusible synthetic resin, and the coated yarn comprises a melt. A long-fiber yarn made of a heat-meltable synthetic resin having a temperature higher than that of a core yarn. 如請求項2之花邊編織物,其中第1插入紗係包含熔融溫度較鏈式針織紗之芯紗高之熱熔融性合成樹脂纖維紗並且纖度為40丹尼以上且420丹尼以下之彈性紗。The lace knitted fabric of claim 2, wherein the first insert yarn comprises a heat-fusible synthetic resin fiber yarn having a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn of the chain knitting yarn, and an elastic yarn having a fineness of 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less. . 如請求項1至3中任一項之花邊編織物,其中鏈式針織紗及第2插入紗係纖度為10丹尼以上且280丹尼以下之彈性紗。The lace woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn have an elastic yarn having a fineness of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less.
TW105132330A 2016-04-08 2016-10-06 Lace knit TWI669425B (en)

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