CN108729009B

CN108729009B - Method for manufacturing raschel lace knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: CN108729009B
Application number: CN201810339129.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 本谷康彦
Original assignee: Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
Current assignee: Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
Priority date: 2017-04-24
Filing date: 2018-04-16
Publication date: 2020-10-23
Anticipated expiration: 2038-04-16
Also published as: JP6295358B1; HK1256537A1; EP3396037A1; US20180305848A1; JP2018184672A; ES2902681T3; EP3396037B1; CN108729009A

Abstract

The invention provides a manufacturing method of a Raschel lace knitted fabric, which can effectively eliminate the problem of thread off. In the weaving step, in a chain stitch structure in which a 1 st chain stitch line (21a) including a fusible material and a 2 nd chain stitch line (21b) having a higher melting temperature than the 1 st chain stitch line (21a) are fed from different reed separated in the axial direction, an insert yarn (23) made of the same kind of material as the 1 st chain stitch line (21a) is inserted to weave a Raschel stitch fabric (20), and in a state where the Raschel stitch fabric (20) is stretched, the 2 nd chain stitch line (21b) and the weft penetration line (22) are heat-treated for a treatment time in which the yarn remains at a temperature not higher than the melting temperature of the 2 nd chain stitch line (21b) and not higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material.

Description

Method for manufacturing raschel lace knitted fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to a manufacturing method of a Raschel lace knitted fabric, which comprises the following steps of:

a weaving step of weaving a raschel-knitted fabric by hanging a plurality of chain knitting yarns each forming a chain knitting structure extending in a knitting direction, a weft-direction passing yarn which is woven in a weft direction through a knitted fabric between the plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarns, and a hot-melt yarn which is partially or entirely melted by heat treatment and exhibits weldability, on a raschel warp knitting machine; and

and a heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step.

Background

Patent document 1, patent document 2, patent document 3, and patent document 4 show methods of manufacturing raschel lace knitted fabrics that are difficult to remove threads (lossethread) by performing such a weaving step and a heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabrics obtained through the weaving step. What is called a core spun yarn is used in the technique shown in the former 3. In contrast, in the technique shown in patent document 4, the chain stitch itself is woven with two yarns.

In the technique disclosed in patent document 1, a covering yarn (covering yarn) is woven into a scallop part.

The core yarn is composed of a core yarn having a heat-fusible property and a covering yarn (also referred to as a sheath yarn) which is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn, and after weaving, the lace knitted fabric is heated, whereby a part of the core yarn is melted, and a melt is oozed out from between the covering yarns, and the melt is bonded and solidified to another adjacent yarn. As a result, in the woven lace product, the string of the scallop part can be prevented from being removed.

Patent document 2 discloses a technique disclosed in patent document 1 in which a core yarn is used as a chain stitch yarn itself to obtain a raschel elastic lace, in order to eliminate the difference in appearance and texture between a scallop side portion and the other portions.

In patent document 3, the lace knitted fabric 120 after weaving is heated to a temperature that is less than the melting temperature of the chain knitting yarn 21 and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the insert yarn 23, thereby partially melting the core yarn, that is, a part of the insert yarn 23 (in patent document 3, this melting is referred to as dissolving). A part of the melted portion adheres to the chain stitch wire 21 and the weft penetration wire 22. Thus, the connection state of the wires 21-23 is maintained, and the wires are prevented from being disconnected. Also, the fused portion 100 is formed by breaking the insert wire 23. Therefore, even if a part of the chain stitch yarn 21 constituting the chain stitch structure is cut, the running of the chain stitch structure can be prevented by the adhesion portion of the insert yarn 23, and the running of the chain stitch structure beyond the adhesion portion can be suppressed.

In the technique disclosed in patent document 4, as described above, each chain stitch structure is formed of two yarns, and 1 of the two yarns is a low-melting-point yarn, and the contact portions of the yarns are bonded in a state where the low-melting-point yarns form the chain stitch structure. Nylon (specifically, nylon 6, nylon 66, and nylon 12) is used as the low-melting-point yarn, and the yarn is a yarn having substantially no stretchability.

Patent document 1: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 11-081073

Patent document 2: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2008-280627

Patent document 3: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2009-013554

Patent document 4: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 63-152444

As described above, although development has been made for many years to obtain a product excellent in aesthetic appearance and texture while solving the problem of thread unraveling of raschel lace knitted fabrics, the technique disclosed in patent document 2 described above uses a covering yarn as a chain stitch, and therefore requires skill in weaving and cannot obtain a yield.

Further, since the core yarn of the core yarn is a fusible yarn, it is necessary to expose the core yarn from between the covering yarns (sheath yarns), and tension management during heat treatment is difficult.

Therefore, a technique of using the chain stitch yarn itself as the core yarn has not been practically put to practical use.

On the other hand, in the technique disclosed in patent document 3, a yarn having a high melting point such as nylon is used as a chain stitch yarn, a thin polyester-based thermoplastic polyurethane elastic yarn is inserted as an insert yarn into a chain stitch structure formed by the chain stitch yarn, and a subsequent heat treatment step is performed.

Although it is described that a knitted lace (raschel-knitted fabric of the present invention) capable of preventing thread unraveling can be obtained, according to the study of the present inventors, the adhesion between the chain knitted thread and the thermal bonding thread constituting the chain knitted structure is insufficient (adhesion is not sufficiently generated), and there is room for improvement.

In the technique disclosed in patent document 4, as described above, since the low-melting-point threads, which are one type of threads constituting the chain stitch, are fused at the contact portion where they contact each other, the knitted fabric itself becomes very hard and impractical. Further, since nylon is used as the low-melting-point yarn, the knitted fabric is also hard in this respect, and stretchability cannot be imparted to the knitted fabric.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above circumstances, a main object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric, which can effectively eliminate the problem of thread unraveling and can obtain a knitted fabric having stretchability.

A method for manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric, which comprises the following steps of:

a heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step,

the method for manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric, characterized in that in the 1 st feature,

in the weaving process, the weaving machine is provided with a weaving machine,

a fusible yarn portion made of a hot-melt polyurethane which is a fusible material partially or completely melted by heat treatment is set as a 1 st chain knitting portion,

a refractory yarn portion made of a refractory material having a higher melting temperature than the fusible material is set as a 2 nd chain knitting portion,

a plurality of chain stitch structures including the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure and being woven in a state where a surface of the 1 st chain stitch portion is exposed,

the weft penetration line is made of a refractory material having a higher melting temperature than the fusible material,

inserting an insert yarn made of a polyurethane material into the chain stitch structure to weave a raschel knit fabric,

in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment is carried out,

the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step is subjected to a heat treatment in which the refractory yarn portion, the weft through-thread, and the insert thread are heated to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the refractory material and the weft through-thread and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material for a treatment time in which the refractory yarn portion, the weft through-thread, and the insert thread remain as yarns in a state where the knitted fabric forming the contact portion between the 1 st chain knitted portion and the insert thread is tensioned, thereby obtaining a raschel lace knitted fabric in which the insert thread is welded to the chain knitted structure.

According to this structure, when the raschel-knitted fabric is woven, the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion are both provided, and one kind of chain stitch structure is woven. In this weaving, an insert yarn made of the same type of fusible material as that constituting the 1 st chain stitch portion is inserted into the chain stitch structure. Specifically, the material of the 1 st chain stitch portion is made of hot-melt polyurethane, and the material of the insert yarn is made of polyurethane. Then, the 1 st chain knitting portion with the exposed surface is used. In the mode in which the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion constitute the same chain stitch structure by performing the weaving in this manner, the 1 st chain stitch portion and the adjacent portion of the inserted yarn are formed at the loop portion.

As a result, a raschel knit fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the weaving step, and the raschel knit fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step. The heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the refractory material and the weft penetration line and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material, and the refractory yarn portion and the weft penetration line remain as yarns. In this heat treatment, the raschel knitted fabric is put in a tensioned state to which tension is applied. In this tensioned state, the 1 st chain knitting portion and the portion of the inserted yarn that is close to each other become the contact portion.

When the heat treatment is performed in this state, in a mode in which the position of the refractory yarn and the weft insertion thread constituting the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain as yarns for retaining the knitted fabric form, the 1 st chain knitted part constituting the chain knitted structure and the insertion thread inserted into the chain knitted structure are made of the same material, and are brought into contact with each other in a tensioned state at the contact part, and therefore, the melting and welding are reliably performed. Furthermore, a welded portion between the insert yarn and the 2 nd chain knitting portion or the weft cross yarn is also formed. Further, since polyurethane is used as a material constituting the 1 st chain knitting portion and the insert yarn, stretchability can be imparted to the knitted fabric.

As a result, the problem of thread separation can be effectively solved, and a raschel lace knitted fabric having sufficient stretchability can be obtained.

The invention according to the 2 nd aspect is constituted such that,

feeding a 1 st chain stitch yarn made of the fusible material as a filament yarn and a 2 nd chain stitch yarn made of the refractory material from different warp shafts to separate reed, thereby weaving the 1 st chain stitch portion from the 1 st chain stitch yarn, the 2 nd chain stitch portion from the 2 nd chain stitch yarn, and the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure, and,

inserting the insert yarn into a chain stitch structure formed by the 1 st chain stitch yarn and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn to weave a raschel knit fabric,

in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment is carried out,

the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step is subjected to a heat treatment in which the 2 nd chain knitting wire, the weft insertion wire, and the inserted wire are left as yarns and the temperature is not lower than the melting temperature of the 2 nd chain knitting wire and the weft insertion wire and not lower than the melting temperature of the 1 st chain knitting wire, thereby obtaining a raschel lace knitted fabric.

According to this structure, when the raschel fabric is woven, one chain stitch is woven by both the filament yarn, i.e., the 1 st chain stitch and the 2 nd chain stitch made of a refractory material. Here, the 1 st chain stitch yarn can be easily woven by using a filament yarn. In this structure, an insert yarn is inserted into the chain stitch. In this way, in the mode in which the 1 st chain stitch yarn and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn constitute the same chain stitch structure, the contact portion between the 1 st chain stitch yarn and the inserted yarn is formed at the loop portion.

The reason why the separate reed is used for the 1 st chain knitting yarn and the 2 nd chain knitting yarn in the weaving of the knitted fabric is that since these yarns have different physical properties, the yarns are independently fed in a state suitable for each yarn, and the knitted fabric is woven satisfactorily.

As a result, a raschel knitted fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the weaving step, and the raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step. The heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the 2 nd chain knitting wire and the weft insertion wire and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the 1 st chain knitting wire. However, the processing time is set to be the processing time for which the 2 nd chain knitting yarn and the weft penetration yarn remain as yarns. By performing such heat treatment, in a mode in which the 2 nd chain knitting yarn and the weft cross knitting yarn, which constitute the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric, remain as yarns for maintaining the knitted fabric form, the 1 st chain knitting yarn and the insert yarn can be brought into a state of being well welded at the contact portion thereof.

The insert yarn, the 2 nd chain knitting yarn, and the weft cross yarn are welded.

The 3 rd feature of the present invention is constituted such that the 1 st chain stitch yarn is a yarn thinner than the insert yarn,

in the heat treatment step, the surface of the insert wire is melted,

the 1 st chain stitch yarn is welded to a surface of the insert yarn.

According to this configuration, the 1 st chain stitch yarn can be melted first and can be welded to the insert yarn well.

The 4 th feature of the present invention is that the 1 st chain stitch yarn is thinner than the insert yarn.

According to this configuration, by using the polyurethane yarn made of the same material as the 1 st chain stitch yarn and the insert yarn, the two yarns can be reliably welded. According to the verification of the inventors, in the method in which two polyurethane threads are brought into contact with each other at a contact portion, if the two polyurethane threads are subjected to heat treatment in a tensioned state (a so-called stretched state in which no slack is applied) in which tension is applied to the threads, the two threads are welded at least on the surfaces thereof. By performing the heat treatment in the tensioned state in this manner, the problem of thread separation can be eliminated in the welded portion. Further, since the polyurethane thread has elasticity, a so-called elastic lace having elasticity in a raschel lace knitted fabric can be used.

The 5 th feature of the present invention is that the 1 st 1 reed fed with the 1 st chain knitting yarn is located further forward than the 2 nd 2 reed fed with the 2 nd chain knitting yarn in the front-rear direction of the raschel knitting machine.

In the present invention, the 2 nd chain knitted yarn is a yarn remaining in the raschel lace knitted fabric even after the heat treatment process, and is a thick yarn with high visibility. On the other hand, the 1 st chain stitch yarn is thin and has poor visibility because its function is to weld.

Even in such a situation, according to this configuration, since the 1 st 1 reed is set to be on the front side of the machine base with respect to the 2 nd 2 reed, even if a problem such as cutting of the 1 st chain knitting yarn, which is thin and has poor visibility, occurs during weaving, for example, the worker can easily perform the processing of the 1 st chain knitting yarn from the front of the raschel knitting machine.

The 6 th feature of the present invention is that the 2 nd chain stitch yarn is a nylon yarn.

According to this configuration, the thermally adhesive polyurethane yarn is used as the 1 st chain stitch yarn, and thus the yarn can be reliably welded. As a result, the problem of thread separation can be eliminated. Further, by using a nylon yarn as the 2 nd chain knitting yarn, the raschel lace knitted fabric can be made to have a beautiful appearance with an elastic lace pattern and to be a firm fabric.

The 7 th feature of the present invention is constituted by including a 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism for adjusting a yarn feeding amount at a 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding portion from a warp beam for feeding the 1 st chain knitting yarn to the 1 st 1 reed to adjust a yarn feeding tension, and

the yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism is provided with a 2 nd chain knitting yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism for adjusting the yarn feeding amount at the 2 nd chain knitting yarn feeding position from the warp beam for feeding the 2 nd chain knitting yarn to the 2 nd 2 reed so as to adjust the yarn feeding tension.

According to this configuration, the yarn feeding portions of the 1 st chain knitting yarn and the 2 nd chain knitting yarn are respectively provided with the yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism, and by adjusting the yarn feeding amount and adjusting the yarn feeding tension, the yarns having different physical properties are respectively supplied to different reed, and the chain knitting structure composed of these two kinds of yarns can be woven well.

The 8 th feature of the present invention is that the 1 st chain stitch yarn is a hot melt polyurethane yarn having a thickness of 17 to 156dtex and a melting temperature of 150 to 180 ℃,

the 2 nd chain type braided wire is a nylon wire with the thickness of 33 to 78dtex and the melting temperature of 200 ℃,

the inserted line is a polyurethane line with the thickness of 156-310 dtex and the melting temperature of 190-220 ℃,

in the heat treatment step, the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature within a heating temperature range of 190 ℃ to 200 ℃ for 30 to 90 seconds.

According to this configuration, the raschel knitted fabric is knitted using the 1 st chain knitting yarn, the 2 nd chain knitting yarn, and the insert yarn, and the obtained raschel knitted fabric is subjected to an appropriate heat treatment, whereby a portion where the 1 st chain knitting yarn is welded to the insert yarn can be reliably formed. Furthermore, the inserted yarn is left in the heat treatment, whereby an elastic raschel lace knitted fabric can be obtained.

The 9 th feature of the present invention is constituted such that,

in the weaving process, the weaving machine is provided with a weaving machine,

a combined yarn including the fusible yarn portion and the refractory yarn portion on one yarn is supplied to reed, a chain stitch having the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion is woven, and the insert yarn is inserted into the chain stitch to weave the raschel-knitted fabric.

According to this structure, when the raschel knit fabric is woven, the combination yarn is used as the chain stitch yarn to weave the chain stitch structure. The combined yarn used here is a yarn including both a fusible yarn portion and a refractory yarn portion, and the fusible yarn portion is melted by the heat treatment performed in the heat treatment step, thereby exhibiting weldability. As described so far, since the inserted yarn is inserted into the chain stitch structure, the 1 st chain stitch portion of the combination yarn comes into contact with the inserted yarn at the loop portion of the chain stitch structure.

As a result, when a raschel knitted fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the weaving step and the raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step, the 1 st chain stitch portion and the insert thread of the chain stitch structure are in a good welded state at the contact portion thereof in such a manner that the refractory yarn portion and the weft penetration thread constituting the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain as yarns retaining the knitted fabric form.

As a result, a raschel lace knitted fabric capable of effectively solving the problem of thread separation can be obtained.

In the case of using the combination yarn as described above, only one reed can be used for weaving the knitted fabric, and the weaving can be easily performed.

In the 10 th aspect of the present invention, in the weaving step, the raschel fabric is woven so that the entire surface thereof has a chain stitch structure including the 1 st chain stitch portion, the 2 nd chain stitch portion, and an insert yarn.

In this configuration, a raschel lace-knitted fabric can be obtained in which the problem of thread separation is unlikely to occur over the entire knitted fabric.

The 11 th feature of the present invention is that, in the weaving step, in the chain stitch structure formed by the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion, a yarn different from the inserted yarn is inserted as a floating inserted yarn in a weaving form in which a part of the yarn floats on the back surface of the raschel knitted fabric.

According to this structure, the floating insert yarn is inserted so as to float the yarn on one side of the raschel-knitted fabric, and a raschel-lace-knitted fabric having a good touch can be obtained.

As such a floating insert yarn, cotton, rayon, polyester multifilament yarn, and the like are preferable.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a weave diagram showing a part of a chain stitch of a raschel knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a weave structure diagram showing a weave pattern of a chain stitch and an insert yarn inserted into the chain stitch.

Fig. 3 is a side view showing a configuration of a raschel warp knitting machine capable of independently supplying two chain knitting yarns according to the present invention.

Fig. 4 is a view showing a weaving section of the raschel knitting machine shown in fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view illustrating the action of the knitting needles of the chain knitting portion and the ground reed.

Fig. 6 is a schematic cross-sectional view illustrating the operation of the jacquard bar and the insert line reed (reed for thermal bonding).

Fig. 7 is an operation diagram showing a moving pattern of the chain stitch yarn and the insert yarn with respect to the knitting needles for forming the woven structure shown in fig. 2.

FIG. 8 is a process diagram for making a Raschel lace knitted fabric.

Fig. 9 is a weave diagram showing a part of a chain stitch of a raschel knitted fabric according to another embodiment.

Description of the reference numerals

19: chain type knitting organization; 20: raschel lace knitted fabric (raschel elastic lace knitted fabric); 21 a: 1 st chain stitch yarn (hot melt yarn/1 st chain stitch portion); 21 b: the 2 nd chain stitch wire (the 2 nd chain stitch portion); 22: passing the thread in the weft direction; 23: a patch cord; 210: chain type braided wire; 210 a: a fusible yarn portion (1 st chain stitch portion); 210 b: a refractory yarn portion (2 nd chain stitch portion); y: a contact portion; c: weaving direction; w: the woven fabric is weft-wise.

Detailed Description

The present invention relates to a method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric, which includes, as main steps, a weaving step s1 and a heat treatment step s2 of heat-treating a raschel knitted fabric 20 obtained through the weaving step s1, as shown in fig. 8. The heat treatment step s2 is also called a heat setting step, and after passing through these two steps s1 and s2, a dyeing step s3 of dyeing the raschel lace knitted fabric and a resin treatment drying step s4 of resin treatment are performed, and in the cutting and sewing step s5, the fabric can be cut and sewn so as to satisfy the intended use, and a product can be obtained. One example of a product is a feminine garment.

The embodiments shown below are characterized in that, in the weaving step s1, the inventors, at this time, weave the raschel knit fabric 20 using the unique raschel knitting machine 200 which has been modified, and perform at least heat treatment on the raschel knit fabric 20.

Fig. 1 shows one of the plurality of chain stitch stitches 19 constituting the raschel knitted fabric 20 in this embodiment, and shows a knitting state of the main threads (the 1 st chain stitch thread 21a, the 2 nd chain stitch thread 21b, the weft insertion thread 22, and the insert thread 23) constituting the stitch 19. As will be described later, in the actual raschel knitted fabric 20, a large number of threads are knitted as the weft-wise passing threads 22, but only two of them are shown in fig. 1.

Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a relationship between the chain stitch yarn 21 constituting such a knitted fabric structure and the insert yarn 23 paired with the chain stitch yarn 21 in the present invention. In the weaving of the raschel knitted fabric 20 of the present invention, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b form the chain stitch structure 19 in the same operation, and therefore one of them is omitted in the drawing (the same in fig. 7 (a)). In fig. 2, the other yarns than the chain stitch yarn 21 constituting the chain stitch structure 19 and the inserted yarn 23 inserted into the chain stitch yarn 21 are also omitted.

Fig. 7 shows the positional relationship between the respective threads (the chain knitting thread 21 and the inserted thread 23) and the knitting needles 72 during the knitting operation in the case of weaving the raschel knitted fabric 20 having this structure. The horizontal arrows in fig. 7 correspond to the actions of reed with respect to each needle 72 (ground reed 65 in the case of (a) and reed 61 for inserting a wire in the case of (b)).

In fig. 2, each of the chain stitch structures 19 is a stitch structure independent of each other, but actually, a plurality of weft-direction passing threads 22 (see fig. 1) are woven between these stitch structures 19 to constitute (form) a raschel-knitted fabric 20.

Referring to fig. 1, the raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted through the knitting process s1 is characterized in that the chain stitch yarn 21 as the chain stitch structure 19 is composed of two kinds of

yarns

21a and 21b, and the insert yarn 23 is inserted into the chain stitch structure 19 formed in this manner in the knitting direction C (the warp direction of the knitted fabric).

In this raschel knitted fabric 20, one yarn 21a of the chain stitch yarn 21 is a hot-melt yarn made of a fusible material. The thermal fuse 21a is also called a thermal fuse. The thread 21a has thermoplasticity, is melted by being heated to a predetermined temperature or higher, and is welded to an insert thread 23 which is made of the same material as the hot-melt thread 21a and is in contact with the hot-melt thread 21 a.

The other yarn 21b of the chain stitch yarn 21 is made of a refractory material having a higher melting temperature than the fusible material.

Accordingly, in this embodiment, the 1 st chain stitch wire 21a becomes the 1 st chain stitch yarn portion made of the fusible material, and the 2 nd chain stitch wire 21b becomes the 2 nd chain stitch yarn portion made of the refractory material.

In the present embodiment, since the two

yarns

21a and 21b are independent yarns, the surface of the heat-fusible yarn 21a (the 1 st chain knitted yarn portion) is exposed.

In fig. 1, only one type of chain stitch 19 is shown, but in the present embodiment, all the chain stitches 19 (total wales) forming the raschel knit fabric 20 are configured as described above. As a result, in the heat treatment step s2, the heat-fusible thread 21a constituting a part of the chain stitch 19 is welded to at least the insert thread 23, and even if the raschel lace knitted fabric is cut arbitrarily at an arbitrary portion, a raschel lace product in which thread separation does not occur can be obtained.

Here, the hot melt wire 21a is substantially entirely melted by the heat treatment. According to the confirmation of the inventors, in the raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention, the portion Y where the heat-fusible thread 21a is welded to the insert thread 23 is effective in preventing the thread from being detached. That is, even if the stretching operation is performed with respect to the knitted fabric, the effect of preventing the thread slipping-off is not lost.

The summary of the invention is as described above.

The following describes the sequence of 1. knit fabric structure, 2. use of yarn, 3. raschel warp knitting machine, and 4. production of raschel lace-knitted fabric.

1. Weave fabric weave

As shown in fig. 1, a raschel knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention includes: a plurality of

chain stitch yarns

21a, 21b each constituting a chain stitch structure 19 extending in the knitting direction C; a weft-direction penetration thread 22 which penetrates the weft direction W of the knitted fabric and is knitted between the chain stitch structures 19 formed by the

chain stitch threads

21a and 21 b; and an insert yarn 23 inserted into each course (actually, a loop portion r3 (sinker loop) of the chain stitch 19) in the knitting direction C in the chain stitch 19.

As is apparent from fig. 1 and 3, the chain stitch yarn 21 feeds the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a, which is a heat fusible yarn, and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21B, which has a higher melting temperature than the heat fusible yarn 21a, from different warp beams B1 and B2 to the individual reed 64a and 64B to weave the chain stitch structure 19.

Then, in the chain stitch structure 19 formed by the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21B, the inserted yarn 23 is inserted by supplying the yarn from the warp beam B4 to the inserted yarn reed 61.

As described above, in the raschel knitted fabric 20 of the present invention, the chain stitch structure 19 is formed by the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b, the weft penetration yarn 22 is woven by performing weft penetration between the chain stitch structures 19, and the insert yarn 23 is inserted into each of the chain stitch structures 19.

Here, the weft-wise passing thread 22 includes a mesh yarn and a grain yarn which become a base of the raschel-knitted fabric 20, and the mesh yarn and the chain knitting thread 21 together constitute a basic net of the raschel-knitted fabric 20. On the other hand, a wale is a plurality of threads woven to determine a lace pattern, and the lace pattern is determined by the type of the thread and the weft penetration.

That is, a plurality of grids are formed by the

respective wires

21a, 21b, 22, 23, through holes are formed so as to be surrounded by the respective grids, and the lace pattern is determined according to the shape (shape of the through holes) and arrangement of the respective grids. In addition, in the raschel knitted fabric 20, a portion where the amount of thread arranged per unit area is dense is referred to as a pattern portion, and a portion where the amount of thread arranged per unit area is loose is referred to as a base portion (including the above-described base web), and the pattern is also determined according to the shape and arrangement of the pattern portion and the base portion.

2. Use of thread

Chain type braided wire

As the chain stitch yarn 21, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b are used.

Accordingly, each chain stitch 19 is configured to include two yarns (the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b) independently.

As the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a, for example, polyester polyurethane (trade name: MOBILON, nisshinboco, ltd. manufactured) is used. However, in the present embodiment, the thickness of the thread 21a is 17 to 56dtex (decitex) and is small. The yarn is a hot-melt polyurethane yarn that is melted and welded to a yarn in contact with the yarn by heat treatment, and is a monofilament yarn (filament yarn) made of a stretchable material. With regard to this thread, in fact, the chain stitch 19 cannot be held by this thread alone, and the chain stitch weaving thereof is also difficult. Depicted more finely in fig. 1 for ease of understanding. The melting temperature of the wire 21a is 150 to 180 ℃.

As the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b, a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers including a synthetic resin is used. For example, polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, etc., and has a thickness of about 33 to 56 dtex. The thread 21b is a thread which forms the chain stitch 19 alone in the conventional elastic raschel lace. The melting temperature of the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b is about 200 ℃.

As the weft penetration thread 22, a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of a synthetic resin is used. For example, the yarn is composed of polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, or the like, and has a thickness of about 33 to 78 dtex. The thread 22 becomes a gauze or grain yarn in the raschel lace knitted fabric.

The melting temperature of the wire 22 is also about 200 ℃.

As the insert wire 23, for example, polyester urethane is used. However, the thickness of the yarn 23 is 156 to 310dtex (decitex), which is thicker than the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a described above. The yarn is made of the same material as the hot-melt yarn 21a, but the yarn remains even after the heat treatment process because the yarn has a high melting temperature and is thick. Further, since the yarn has strong stretchability, elasticity is imparted to the raschel knitted fabric 20 after weaving. The melting temperature of the wire 23 is about 210 ℃.

As is clear from the studies by the inventors, the thermal fuse 21a is substantially melted by the heat treatment described later, and at least a part of the surface of the insert wire 23 is melted, thereby achieving a good welded state.

3. Raschel warp knitting machine

The raschel knit fabric 20 used in the present invention can be woven by a back jacquard raschel warp knitting machine, for example. The rear jacquard raschel knitting machine 200 (hereinafter simply referred to as a warp knitting machine) includes a yarn guide member (specifically,

reed

61, 62, 63, 64a, 64b) for guiding the chain knitting yarn 21(21a, 21b), the weft insertion yarn 22, and the insert yarn 23 toward the weaving portion 201 provided near the knitting needle 72.

In the present embodiment,

reed

64a and 64b for guiding the chain stitch yarn 21 to the weaving section 201 are positioned in front of the

other reed

61, 62, and 63 in the warp knitting machine (the right side in fig. 3, and referred to as "front side of the warp knitting machine" in fig. 3), and reed 64a is positioned in front of the warp knitting machine in comparison with reed 64 b.

The reed 61 for threading the inserted thread 23 toward the weaving section 201 is arranged behind the warp knitting machine (on the left side in fig. 3, referred to as "rear side of the warp knitting machine" in fig. 3) from the

reed

62 and 63 for threading the weft insertion thread 22 toward the weaving section 201. Here, the rear side of the warp knitting machine is a direction from the back surface of the knitting needle 72 toward the hook portion. However, reed 62 for threading the weft insertion thread 22 toward the weaving portion 201 may be provided between

reed

64b and 63.

Specifically, as shown in fig. 3 and 4, the warp knitting machine 200 is realized by a yarn insertion reed 61, a jacquard bar 62 as a jacquard reed, a plurality of patterns reed 63, and a pair of

grounds reed

64a and 64 b. The

chain knitting yarns

21a and 21b are threaded to the

grounds reed

64a and 64b, respectively, the weft insertion yarn 22 is threaded to the jacquard bar 62 with respect to the net yarn, and the weft insertion yarn 22 is threaded to the pattern reed 63 with respect to the wale. The insert cord 23 is threaded to the insert cord reed 61.

The reed 61-64 a, 64b are arranged radially toward the weaving section 201 where the knitting needles 72 catch the chain knitting yarns 21, and are arranged in the order of the

ground reed

64a, 64b, the plurality of patterns reed 63, the jacquard bar 62, and the insert yarn reed 61 as they face toward the rear of the warp knitting machine in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 catch the chain knitting yarns 21. Accordingly, the respective yarns are arranged in the order of the chain knitting yarn 21(21a, 21b), the plurality of wales 22, the mesh yarn 22, and the insert yarn 23 from a predetermined weaving position in the front-rear direction of the warp knitting machine. In the present embodiment, the ground reed a for the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is located on the front side with respect to the ground 3564 b of the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b, the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is arranged at the forefront of the warp knitting machine 200, and the practitioner can easily handle the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21 a.

A plurality of knitting needles 72 are arranged in a direction (front-back direction of the paper surface of fig. 3 and 4) orthogonal to the front-back direction (left-right direction of fig. 3 and 4) of the warp knitting machine, and are fixed to a needle bed 69 serving as a holding member for holding each knitting needle 72. The needle bed 69 performs the raising and lowering motion of each knitting needle 72. Then, the needle holder 69 is operated, and thus the respective threads led by the needles reed 61 to 64a and 64b are guided to a predetermined weaving position.

Each of the reed 61 to 64a, 64b synchronizes the lifting motion of the corresponding

yarn

23, 22, 21a, 21b with the knitting needle 72, and performs a yarn backing (stitch weaving motion) for moving the corresponding

yarn

23, 22, 21a, 21b in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged with respect to the knitting needles 72 in a space behind the warp knitting machine, and a yarn backing (insertion motion) for moving the corresponding

yarn

23, 22, 21a, 21b in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged with respect to the knitting needles 72 in a space in front of the warp knitting machine. In addition to these yarn laying motions, a so-called swing motion (rocking motion) is performed that moves in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged. Specifically, there are two oscillating motions.

In the swing-in (backswing) operation, which is the 1 st swing operation, the corresponding

yarns

23, 22, 21a, 21b are passed through the lateral side of the knitting needle 72, and are moved relative to the knitting needle 72 from the space behind the warp knitting machine to the space in front of the warp knitting machine. In the swing-out (forward swing) operation which is the 2 nd swing operation, each corresponding yarn is passed through the side of the knitting needle 72, and is moved relative to the knitting needle 72 from the space in front of the warp knitting machine to the space behind the warp knitting machine. The yarns reed 61-64 a, 64b are moved by the yarn guide needles mounted thereon, so that the corresponding yarns pass around the knitting needles 72 in a predetermined path, thereby forming the raschel-knitted fabric 20 including the corresponding

yarns

23, 22, 21a, 21 b. The operation position relationship with respect to each knitting needle 72 is shown in fig. 7 (a) with respect to the chain knitting wire 21 and in fig. 7 (b) with respect to the insert wire 23.

Furthermore, the reed 61 to 64a, and 64B described above are provided with the 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism TC1 that adjusts the yarn feeding amount at the 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding portion B1 from the warp beam B1 that feeds the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a to the ground reed 64a (1 st 1 reed) to adjust the yarn feeding tension in the raschel warp knitting machine 200 that weaves the raschel knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention.

Further, a 2 nd chain knitting yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism TC2 is also provided, which adjusts the yarn feeding amount at a 2 nd chain knitting yarn feeding position B2 from a warp beam B2 for feeding the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21B to a ground reed 64B (2 nd 2 reed) to adjust the yarn feeding tension.

The weaving section 201 includes a sinker bed 71, a knocking-over plate bed 68, and a latch needle bed 70. The latch needle bed 70 has a plurality of latch needles corresponding to the knitting needles 72 formed at the distal end portion. The raschel knitting machine 200 weaves the raschel knit fabric 20 by the operations of reed 61 to 64a, 64b and the needle bed 69. Then, the raschel knit fabric 20 woven by the weaving assisting action of the sinker bed 71 is assist-woven, passed through the knockover bed 68, and the raschel knit fabric 20 is wound by a winding portion provided near the weaving portion 201.

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing the operation of the knitting needles 72 and the

grounds reed

64a and 64b in the chain knitting portion, and the knitting operation of the chain knitting portions of the

chain knitting wires

21a and 21b is performed in the order of fig. 5 (a) to 5 (e). The knitting needle 72 has a hook 50 for locking the

chain knitting yarns

21a and 21b formed at its distal end and a knitting needle bar 51 formed at its proximal end. In addition, a latch needle 52 for opening and closing an opening formed by the hook 50 is formed at the tip of the latch needle bed 70 shown in fig. 4. The knitting needle 72 and the latch needle 52 are formed so as to be individually movable up and down with respect to the

grounds reed

64a, 64 b. First, only the weaving of the chain stitch structure 19 will be described with reference to fig. 5, and the weft insertion thread 22 and the insert thread 23 which are woven into the chain stitch structure 19 will be described later.

As shown in fig. 5 (a), in a state where the

grounds reed

64a, 64b are arranged in front of the knitting needle 72, the hook 50 catches a new previous loop-shaped portion r1 (loop) formed by the chain knitting wire 21, and the latch needle 52 closes the opening of the hook 50. Next, as shown in fig. 5 (b), the knitting needle 72 is raised to the

grounds reed

64a and 64b with respect to the latch needle 52. Thereby, the opening of the hook 50 is opened, and the previous loop portion r1 of the chain stitch wire 21 hooked by the hook 50 is pulled out from the hook 50 and moved to the knitting needle bar 51.

Next, as shown in fig. 5 (c), the

ground reed

64a, 64b backswing with respect to the knitting needle 72. Next, the

ground reed

64a, 64b performs needle lapping, and further performs forward swing as shown in fig. 5 (d). The

chain knitting wires

21a, 21b thus fed from the

ground reed

64a, 64b move so as to be entangled with the knitting needle 72, thereby forming a new loop-like portion r2 (needle loop). The new loop portion r2 is caught by the hook 50. Next, as shown in fig. 5 (d), the latch needle 52 is raised toward the hook portion 50, and closes the opening of the hook portion 50. At this time, the knitting needle 72 is formed with a new loop portion r2 in which the previous loop portion r1 formed on the knitting needle bar 51 and the hook 50 are caught.

Next, as shown in fig. 5 (e), the knitting needle 72 and the latch needle 52 are lowered together, and the previous loop portion r1 is pulled out from the knitting needle 72 and moved toward the knock-out plate 53.

In a state where the

grounds reed

64a and 64b are arranged in front of the knitting needle 72, the hook 50 catches the new loop portion r2 formed by the

chain knitting wires

21a and 21b, and the state is substantially the same as that of fig. 5 (a). Then, the operation cycle shown in fig. 5 (a) to 5 (e) is repeated to form the chain stitch structure 19 in order, and the stitch structure 19 forms the loop portions r1 and r2 in order and the loop portion r3 (sinker loop) connecting the loop portions r1 and r2 in order.

In the present embodiment, the raschel fabric 20 of the present embodiment can be woven by knitting the weft insertion thread 22 and the weft insertion thread 23 into the chain stitch structure 19 while performing the weaving operation of the chain stitch structure 19.

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing the operation of the jacquard bar 62 and the insert wire reed 61, and the operation is performed in the order of fig. 6 (a) to 6 (c).

Fig. 6 (a) corresponds to fig. 5 (c), fig. 6 (b) corresponds to fig. 5 (d), and fig. 6 (c) corresponds to fig. 5 (e), and each is a diagram in which a jacquard bar 62 and an insert line reed 61 are added. As described above, in the raschel knitting machine 200, the jacquard bar 62 is arranged behind the

ground reed

64a, 64b where the chain stitch yarn 21 is fed. The insert yarn reed 61 is arranged behind the warp knitting machine with respect to the jacquard bar 62.

As shown in fig. 6 (a) and 6 (b), the

ground reed

64a, 64b are arranged behind the knitting machine with respect to the knitting needle 72, and the jacquard bar 62 and the insert-yarn reed 61 are also arranged behind the knitting machine with respect to the knitting needle 72. As shown in fig. 6 (b), the

ground reed

64a, 64b are arranged in front of the knitting needle 72, and the jacquard bar 62 and the insert-yarn reed 61 are also arranged in front of the knitting needle 72.

As shown in fig. 6 (b), in a state where the

grounds reed

64a, 64b are swung back, the jacquard bar 62 and the insert yarn reed 61 perform needle back lapping, whereby the insert yarn 23 and the weft insertion yarn 22 of the lead wire straddle the chain knitting yarn 21. In this state, when a new course is formed by the chain knitting yarn 21, the insert yarn 23 and the weft insertion yarn 22 are knitted into the course. In this way, the inserting thread reed 61 and the jacquard bar 62 operate in synchronization with the swinging operation of the

grounds reed

64a and 64 b.

In this raschel knitting machine 200, the jacquard bar 62 is arranged in front of the knitting machine with respect to the insert yarn reed 61. Thus, when the insert yarn 23 and the weft through-yarn 22 are knitted in the chain knitting portion formed by the

grounds reed

64a and 64b, the insert yarn 23 led to the knitting position is positioned behind the warp knitting machine than the weft through-yarn 22 led to the knitting position, and the weft through-yarn 22 is positioned on the side of the knitted fabric front and back of the raschel knitted fabric 20 than the insert yarn 23.

The above is the equipment structure for weaving the raschel knit fabric 20 unique to the present invention and the state of progress of weaving.

Hereinafter, a manufacturing process for obtaining a raschel lace knitted fabric will be described with reference to fig. 8.

4. Production of raschel lace knitted fabric

Weaving process

First, a weaving step s1 is prepared. That is, preparation for weaving the knitted fabric is completed by selection of the

respective threads

21a, 21b, 22, 23 used for weaving the raschel knitted fabric 20, determination of the pattern to be formed on the raschel knitted fabric 20, completion of design of the knitted fabric for forming a desired weave structure, and the like.

Then, the yarn is hung on the raschel warp knitting machine 200 in accordance with the design.

In this weaving step s1, the raschel fabric 20 is woven with the

respective yarns

21a, 21b, 22, 23 such as the

chain stitch yarns

21a, 21b, the insert yarn 23, and the like in a previously designed weaving order, so that the raschel fabric 20 having the plurality of chain stitch structures 19 shown in fig. 1 in the fabric weft direction W is woven.

The raschel knit fabric 20 is formed as follows: the chain stitch 19 is formed of both the 1 st chain stitch wire 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch wire 21b, and the inserted wire 23 is inserted into the chain stitch 19. As described above, since the thick polyurethane yarn is inserted as the insert yarn 23, the knitted fabric 20 has stretchability. The raschel machine 200 performs weaving in a state where the insert yarn 23 is extended (in a state where a certain degree of tension is applied).

As described above, since the first chain knitting yarn supply amount adjusting mechanism TC1 for adjusting the yarn supply amount at the 1 st chain knitting yarn supply position B1 from the warp beam B1 for supplying the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a to the ground reed 64a (1 st 1 reed) and adjusting the yarn supply tension is provided, and the 2 nd chain knitting yarn supply amount adjusting mechanism TC2 for adjusting the yarn supply amount at the 2 nd chain knitting yarn supply position B2 from the warp beam B2 for supplying the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21B to the ground reed 64B (2 nd 2 reed) and adjusting the yarn supply tension is also provided, a good yarn supply balance between the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a and the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21B is obtained during weaving.

The raschel knitting machine 200 was set to 1 rack 4800 revolutions, and the yarn feeding amount of each yarn was as follows.

The 1 st chain type braided wire 21a is 100-140 cm

The 2 nd chain type braided wire 21b is 100-140 cm

Weft-wise through line 2220-80 cm

Plug-in wire 235-55 cm

The raschel knit fabric 20 thus woven includes two

polyurethane yarns

21a and 23, and each chain stitch 19 is woven.

Heat treatment Process

In the heat treatment step s2, the raschel knit fabric 20 woven in the weaving step s1 is heated to a temperature (e.g., 200 ℃) that is equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a and equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the

other yarns

21b, 22, 23. That is, the heat setting is performed for, for example, 1 minute at a temperature not lower than the melting temperature (at most 180 ℃) of the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a and not higher than the melting temperature (at most 200 ℃) of the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft insertion yarn 22. The heat treatment time is a time during which the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is melted to show weldability, and the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b, the weft insertion yarn 22, and the insert yarn 23 hold the yarn (remain as yarns).

Thus, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a is melted and can be welded to the yarn in contact therewith while maintaining the raschel lace pattern. In particular, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the insert yarn 23 are well welded.

As a result, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a is welded to the insert yarn 23 at least at the contact portion Y between the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the insert yarn 23 shown in fig. 1. The 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a is also partially welded to the

other yarns

21b, 22, but the portion Y is strongest.

That is, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the insert yarn 23 are strongly welded because they are made of polyester urethane, although they have different melting temperatures (in this case, completely melted temperatures). In contrast, the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b is made of polyamide, and the weft penetration yarn 22 is made of polyamide, rayon, or the like, and therefore the degree of welding with the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is low.

When the raschel knit fabric 20 is heated, the knit fabric 20 is stretched, and the inserted yarn 23 is maintained in a state of being stretched to some extent (tensioned state). As described above, the polyurethane threads are favorably welded to each other, and the raschel lace knitted fabric subjected to this step retains elasticity due to contraction of the insert thread 23.

The raschel knitted fabric 20 is heated in this manner, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a is bonded to the contact portion Y of the insert yarn 23, and the chain stitch yarns 21 are gradually bonded to each other, so that a raschel lace knitted fabric is formed, and the process proceeds to the dyeing step s 3.

Dyeing process

In the dyeing step s3, the resulting raschel-lace knitted fabric is refined or dyed.

Drying step for resin treatment

The resin treatment drying step s4 is a step of applying a soft material, and can impart flexibility to the raschel lace knitted fabric.

After the resin treatment, the raschel lace knitted fabric was dried in hot air at about 160 ℃ for 30 seconds.

Tailoring and sewing process

In the cutting and sewing step s5, the knitted fabric is cut and sewn into a predetermined shape according to the use of the raschel lace knitted fabric.

The raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention substantially completely eliminates the problem of thread release, and therefore, the problem accompanying thread release does not occur at the time of cutting/sewing.

According to the raschel knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment, the elastic insert yarn 23 is knitted into the chain stitch 19, and the chain stitch 19 is provided with elasticity, thereby realizing a raschel lace knitted fabric having elasticity. Then, a part of the contact portion Y of the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a and the insert yarn 23 is bonded. This prevents displacement of the chain stitch 19 and the insert yarn 23 and displacement of the

chain stitches

21a and 21b from each other, and prevents distortion of the lattice. For example, even if an external force is applied during the manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of the raschel lace knitted fabric or an external force is applied during the use state such as wearing or washing, the warp of the grid is prevented and the shape of the grid is maintained, and the lace knitted fabric having a good aesthetic appearance can be obtained and the excellent aesthetic appearance can be maintained for a long period of time.

Furthermore, since the insert yarn 23 is bonded by the adhesiveness of the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a knitted into the entire raschel lace knitted fabric and the chain stitch yarns 21 are also partially bonded to each other, the yarn is not configured to use a partially different yarn, and the uniformity in visual and tactile senses is obtained without impairing the appearance and texture.

[ Another embodiment ]

(1) The above embodiment shows the following case: the 1 st chain stitch wire 21a and the 2 nd chain stitch wire 21b are supplied from different beams to the

individual reed

64a, 64b, one chain stitch 19 is woven from these

wires

21a, 21b, and the insert wire 23 is inserted in this chain stitch 19.

In this manner, instead of using the two

yarns

21a and 21b, the hot-melt combined yarn 210 may be used as the chain stitch yarn, and the raschel knitted fabric may be knitted by the chain stitch structure 19 configured by the 1 st chain stitch portion as the fusible yarn portion 210a including the fusible material and the 2 nd chain stitch portion as the refractory yarn portion 210b including the refractory material with respect to one chain stitch structure 19.

Fig. 9 shows an example of the other embodiment.

The hot melt combination yarn is obtained by spinning a plurality of (two in the case shown in fig. 9) different components simultaneously, and these components have a structure in which they are continuously bonded to each other in the longitudinal direction. As such a combination line, a sheath-core type structure, a fit type (shoulder-shoulder type), and the like are known as the structure thereof, and a shoulder-shoulder type structure is shown in fig. 9.

In the present invention, since the contact portion needs to be formed between the fusible yarn portion 210a and the insert yarn 23, the fusible yarn portion 210a is exposed to the surface. For example, when the combined yarn is a core-sheath type, the sheath side is the fusible yarn portion 210a, and the core side is the refractory yarn portion 210 b. In the case of the bonded type, at least a part of the fusible yarn part 210a is exposed to the yarn surface.

In the case of the present invention, a hot-melt assembly line using polyester urethane (having a melting temperature of 150 to 180 ℃) which is a fusible material and nylon which can be regarded as a refractory material can be used.

In this example, the refractory yarn portion 210b and the insert yarn 23 are bonded together with the melting of the fusible yarn portion 210 a.

In this other embodiment, in the heat treatment step,

the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving process is subjected to a heat treatment to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the refractory material and the weft-wise through-thread and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material, in a state where the knitted fabric is tensioned, for a treatment time in which the refractory yarn portion 210b and the weft-wise through-thread 22 remain as yarns, thereby obtaining a raschel lace knitted fabric.

On the other hand, in the embodiment shown in fig. 1, in the one chain stitch structure 19 shown in fig. 1, the 1 st chain stitch portion is formed by the 1 st chain stitch line 21a, and the 2 nd chain stitch portion is formed by the 2 nd chain stitch line 21 b.

(2) In the above embodiment, the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is a yarn having a thickness of 17 to 56dtex, and in the study by the inventors, a yarn having a thickness smaller than the thickness of the inserted yarn 23, specifically, a yarn having a thickness of 156dtex can be used.

When nylon or polyester is used as the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b, 33, 40, 44, 56, 78dtex yarns can be used.

On the other hand, when nylon or polyester is used as the weft insertion thread 22, threads of 33, 40, 44, 56, and 78dtex may be used.

The heat treatment temperature in the heat treatment step s2 is specifically set to be equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a used and equal to or lower than the lower temperature side of the melting temperatures of the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft through yarn 22, and in this heat treatment, only the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft through yarn 22 can be treated as long as the yarn remains.

Specifically, the melting temperature of the 1 st chain knitting yarn 21a is 150 to 180 ℃, and the melting temperature of the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft insertion yarn 22 is 200 ℃, it can be set to 180 ℃ or higher and 200 ℃ or lower (preferably 190 ℃ or higher and 200 ℃ or lower). The heat treatment time is about 30 to 90 seconds. Since the processing time is very short, the 2 nd chain knitting yarn 21b, the weft insertion yarn 22, and the weft insertion yarn 23 remain in a state of yarn.

(3) In the above embodiment, the raschel knitted fabric 20 is shown as being woven by providing the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a, the 2 nd chain stitch yarn 21b and the insert yarn 23 on the entire surface thereof, but the key point of the present invention is that the 1 st chain stitch portion (for example, the 1 st chain stitch yarn 21a) made of a thermally fusible material is welded to the insert yarn 23, and therefore, the 1 st chain stitch portion, the 2 nd chain stitch portion and the insert yarn 23 may be knitted into only a part of the chain stitch structure 19 depending on the purpose of use (depending on the cut portion) of the raschel knitted fabric produced by cutting the raschel knitted fabric.

(4) In the above embodiment, a polyurethane thread is inserted as the insert thread 23 as a thread for the purpose of imparting stretchability to a raschel lace knitted fabric. In addition to the thread 23, in the chain stitch structure 19 obtained by weaving, a thread different from the insert thread 23 may be inserted as a floating insert thread in a weaving form in which a part of the thread floats on the back surface of the raschel knitted fabric.

As such a floating insert yarn, cotton, rayon, multifilament yarn, or the like can be selected, and the touch can be particularly improved.

(5) In the above embodiment, in order to prevent the thread slipping in the conventional technique, the chain stitch 19 is formed by passing a chain stitch 21, which is called a "warp traverse", in which the chain stitch 19 is formed at a predetermined position in the weft direction W of the woven fabric in the weft direction along adjacent wales and then returning the chain stitch 19 to the original wale after forming a plurality of courses at the position.

The raschel lace-woven fabric of the present invention does not actually require "warp shifting" because it effectively prevents thread off. Alternatively, the number of knitting directions C can be significantly reduced even if provided. As a result, since the "warp traverse" portion which has been frequently provided in the related art (in the related art, the "warp traverse" provided in units of several courses to several tens of courses is provided in units of several hundreds of courses, for example, or is not provided at all) is significantly reduced from the raschel-lace-knitted fabric, the raschel-knitted fabric (particularly, the net composed of the chain stitch 19 and the net yarn 22) can exhibit a fine appearance without frequent occurrence of delamination.

(6) In the above embodiment, the insertion of the insert yarn 23 is performed by a so-called front-hanging method in which the insert yarn 23 is inserted into the sinker loop from the inside toward the outside of the chain knitting in the knitting direction C as shown in fig. 1 and 9, but the insert yarn 23 may be inserted into the sinker loop from the outside toward the inside of the chain knitting.

Claims

1. A method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric, which performs the following steps to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric:

a weaving step of weaving a raschel-knitted fabric by hanging, on a raschel warp knitting machine, a plurality of chain knitting yarns each forming a chain knitting structure extending in a knitting direction, a weft-direction passing yarn which is woven in a weft-direction through the knitted fabric between the plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarns, and a hot-melt yarn which is partially or entirely melted by heat treatment and exhibits weldability; and

wherein the content of the first and second substances,

in the weaving process, the weaving machine is provided with a weaving machine,

a fusible yarn part made of a hot-melt polyurethane which is a fusible material partially or completely melted by heat treatment is set as a 1 st chain stitch part made of a 1 st chain stitch yarn,

a refractory yarn portion made of a refractory material having a higher melting temperature than the fusible material is set as a 2 nd chain stitch portion formed of a 2 nd chain stitch yarn,

in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment is carried out,

in the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the weaving step, in a state where the knitted fabric in which a contact portion between the 1 st chain knitted yarn and the insert yarn is formed as the 1 st chain knitted portion that is thinner than the insert yarn is tensioned, a heat treatment is performed in which the heat treatment is performed at a temperature that is equal to or lower than a melting temperature of the refractory material and the weft through yarn and equal to or higher than a melting temperature of the fusible material for a treatment time in which the refractory yarn portion, the weft through yarn, and the insert yarn remain as yarns, and the contact portion of the 1 st chain knitted yarn and a surface of the insert yarn are melted to weld the 1 st chain knitted yarn to the surface of the insert yarn, thereby obtaining a raschel knitted fabric in which the insert yarn is welded to the chain knitted structure.

2. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein,

feeding the 1 st chain stitch wire made of the fusible material as a filament yarn and the 2 nd chain stitch wire made of the refractory material from different warp shafts to separate reed, thereby weaving the 1 st chain stitch portion from the 1 st chain stitch wire, the 2 nd chain stitch portion from the 2 nd chain stitch wire, and the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure, and,

inserting the insert yarn into a chain stitch formed by the 1 st chain stitch yarn and the 2 nd chain stitch yarn to weave a raschel knit fabric,

in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment is carried out,

3. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

the 1 st 1 reed fed with the 1 st chain knitting yarn is located more forward than the 2 nd 2 reed fed with the 2 nd chain knitting yarn in the front-rear direction of the raschel knitting machine.

4. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

the 2 nd chain type braided wire is a nylon wire.

5. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

a 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding amount adjusting mechanism for adjusting the yarn feeding amount at a 1 st chain knitting yarn feeding position from a warp beam for feeding the 1 st chain knitting yarn to the 1 st 1 reed to adjust the yarn feeding tension,

6. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

the 1 st chain type braided wire is a hot-melt polyurethane wire with the thickness of 17-156 dtex and the melting temperature of 150-180 ℃,

7. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

in the weaving process, the weaving machine is provided with a weaving machine,

the entire surface of the raschel knit fabric is knitted with a chain stitch having the 1 st chain stitch portion, the 2 nd chain stitch portion, and an insert yarn.

8. The method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein,

in the weaving process, the weaving machine is provided with a weaving machine,

in the chain stitch structure formed by the 1 st chain stitch portion and the 2 nd chain stitch portion, a yarn different from the insert yarn is inserted as a floating insert yarn in a weave pattern in which a part of the yarn floats on the back surface of the raschel-knitted fabric.