JP2018184672A - Method for manufacturing raschel lace knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a method for manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric capable of effectively resolving the problem of fraying.SOLUTION: In a knitting step, a Raschel knitted fabric 20 is knitted by inserting an insertion yarn 23 composed of the same kind of material as a first chain stitch fiber 21a into a chain stitch structure knitted by feeding the first chain stitch fiber 21a composed of a meltable material and a second chain stitch fiber 21b having a higher melt temperature than that of the first chain stitch fiber 21a, from different beams to several reeds. The Raschel knitted fabric 20 in an elongated state is subjected to a thermal treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than a melt temperature of the second chain stitch fiber 21b and a temperature equal to or higher than the meltable material for the time of processing for remaining the second chain stitch fiber 21b and a cross-over knitting yarn 22 as yarns.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

The present invention comprises a plurality of chain knitting yarns each forming a chain knitting structure extending in the knitting direction,
A weft transition yarn knitted across a plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and a hot melt yarn which is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts to exhibit weldability A knitting step of knitting a raschel knitted fabric on a raschel knitting machine;
The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric that performs a heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric.

  Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, and Patent Document 3 show such a knitting process and a method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric that is hard to fray by heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through this process. In the techniques shown in these patent documents, a so-called covering yarn is used.

In the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1, the covering yarn is knitted into the scalloped portion.
Covering yarn consists of core yarn having heat melting property and coated yarn (also called sheath yarn) that is thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn. After knitting, the lace fabric is heated to melt part of the core yarn. Then, the melt is leached from between the coated yarns, and the melt is bonded and solidified to other adjacent yarns. As a result, fraying at the scallop portion can be prevented in the knitted lace product.

  Patent Document 2 uses a covering yarn for the chain knitting yarn itself in order to eliminate inconsistencies in aesthetics and textures in the scalloped portion and other portions in the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1, Try to get a stretch lace.

  In Patent Document 3, a part of the insertion yarn 23 that is a covering yarn is obtained by heating the knitted lace fabric 120 to a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the chain knitting yarn 21 and higher than the melting temperature of the insertion yarn 23. Is melted partially (in Patent Document 3, this melting is called melting). A part of the melted portion adheres to the chain knitting yarn 21 and the weft transition yarn 22. As a result, the connected state of the yarns 21 to 23 is maintained, and fraying of the yarn is prevented. Further, the insertion portion 23 is broken to form the fused portion 100. Therefore, even if a part of the chain stitch yarn 21 constituting the chain stitch structure is divided, the unraveling of the chain stitch structure is prevented by the attached portion of the insertion yarn 23, and the chain stitch structure is unraveled beyond the attached portion. It can be suppressed.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-081073 JP 2008-280627 A JP 2009-013554 A

As described above, as a Russell lace knitted fabric, the development of obtaining an excellent product in terms of aesthetics and texture while solving the problem of fraying has continued for many years, but the technology disclosed in Patent Document 2 introduced earlier Then, since the covering yarn is used for the chain stitch yarn, skill is required for knitting and the production amount cannot be earned.
Further, since the core yarn of the covering yarn is a molten yarn, it is necessary to expose the core yarn from between the coated yarns (sheath yarns), and it is difficult to manage the tension during heat treatment.
Therefore, the technique of using the chain stitch yarn itself as a covering yarn has not been practically used.

  On the other hand, in the technique disclosed in Patent Document 3, a yarn having a relatively high melting point, such as nylon, is adopted as the chain knitting yarn, and a relatively thin polyester-based thermoplastic polyurethane elastic yarn is formed in the chain knitting structure formed by the chain knitting yarn. Is inserted as an insertion thread, and the subsequent heat treatment step is executed.

  In this way, it is described that a knitted lace that can prevent fraying of yarn (Russell lace knitted fabric of the present invention) can be obtained. Adhesion between the chain knitting yarn and the heat-bonding yarn constituting the yarn did not occur sufficiently, and there was room for improvement.

  In view of the above situation, a main problem of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric capable of effectively solving the problem of fraying.

A plurality of chain stitch yarns each forming a chain stitch structure extending in the knitting direction;
A weft transition yarn knitted across a plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and a hot melt yarn which is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts to exhibit weldability A knitting step of knitting a raschel knitted fabric on a raschel knitting machine;
The first characteristic configuration of the manufacturing method of the raschel lace knitted fabric that performs the heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to obtain the raschel lace knitted fabric,
In the knitting process,
As a first chain knitting portion, a meltable yarn portion made of a meltable material that is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts,
As the second chain knitting portion, a hardly fusible yarn portion made of a hardly fusible material having a melting temperature higher than that of the fusible material,
While knitting a plurality of chain stitch structures provided with the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure,
Inserting an insertion thread made of the same material as the meltable material into the chain stitch structure to knit a raschel knitted fabric,
In the heat treatment step,
Heat treatment for heating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the fusible material and the weft crossing yarn in a knitted fabric tension state at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material. The processing time for the hardly fusible yarn portion and the weft transition yarn to remain on the yarn is executed to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric.

  According to this configuration, when knitting a raschel knitted fabric, both the first chain knitted portion and the second chain knitted portion are provided, and one chain knitted structure is knitted. In this knitting, an insertion yarn made of the same material as the fusible material forming the first chain stitch portion is inserted into the chain stitch structure. By proceeding knitting in this way, the first chain knitting site and the second chain knitting site form the same chain knitting structure, and the contact portion between the first chain knitting site and the insertion yarn is in the loop site. It is formed.

In this way, a raschel knitted fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the knitting step, and the raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step. The heat treatment is a treatment time in which the hardly fusible yarn portion and the weft crossing yarn remain as yarns at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the hardly fusible material and the weft transition yarn and above the melting temperature of the fusible material. Furthermore, in this heat treatment, the raschel knitted fabric is brought into a tensioned state with a tension applied thereto.
When heat treatment is performed in this state, the chain-knitting structure is formed in a form in which the hardly-fusible yarn portion and the weft transition yarn constituting the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain as yarns that retain the knitted fabric form. The first chain knitting site and the insertion yarn inserted into the chain knitted structure are made of the same material and are in contact in a tension state at the contact portion, so that they are reliably melted and welded.
As a result, a raschel lace knitted fabric capable of effectively solving the fraying problem can be obtained.

The second characteristic configuration of the present invention is:
The first chain knitting yarn made of the fusible material and the second chain knitting yarn made of the hardly fusible material are fed from different beams to individual wrinkles, and the first chain knitting yarn makes the first chain knitting yarn While knitting the second chain knitting site into the same chain knitting structure with the second chain knitting yarn,
Knitting a raschel knitted fabric by inserting the insertion yarn into a chain knitting structure formed by the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn;
In the heat treatment step,
A heat treatment for heating the Russell knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature not higher than the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn and not lower than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn; The processing time for the chain knitting yarn and the weft cross yarn to remain on the yarn is executed to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric.

  According to this configuration, when knitting a raschel knitted fabric, one chain knitting structure is knitted with both the first chain knitting yarn made of a meltable material and the second chain knitting yarn made of a hardly meltable material. In this configuration, an insertion thread is inserted into the chain stitch structure. By proceeding knitting in this manner, the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn form the same chain knitting structure, and the contact portion between the first chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn is at the loop portion. It is formed.

  In the knitting of the knitted fabric, the reason for using individual ridges for the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn is that these yarns have different physical properties, so the yarn supply state of each yarn is adapted to each yarn This is because the knitting is carried out satisfactorily in an independent manner.

  In this way, a raschel knitted fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the knitting step, and the raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step. The heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn. However, the processing time is a processing time in which the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn remain as yarns. By performing such heat treatment, the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn constituting the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain in the form of the yarn that retains the knitted fabric form, and the first chain knitting yarn And the insertion yarn can be well welded at the contact portion.

According to a third characteristic configuration of the present invention, the first chain knitting yarn is a yarn thinner than the insertion yarn,
In the heat treatment in the heat treatment step, the surface of the insertion yarn melts,
The first chain knitting yarn is welded to the surface of the insertion yarn.

  According to this configuration, the first chain knitting yarn can be preceded by melting and can be favorably welded to the insertion yarn.

  According to a fourth characteristic configuration of the present invention, the first chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn are polyurethane yarns, and the first chain knitting yarn is thinner than the insertion yarn.

  According to this configuration, the use of the polyurethane yarn made of the same material as the first chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn can ensure the welding of both yarns. According to the inventor's verification, when the two polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other at the contact portion and are subjected to heat treatment as a tension state in which the yarns are tensioned (a so-called tension state without sagging), both yarns are At least on its surface. By performing the heat treatment in a tension state in this way, the fraying problem can be solved at the welded portion. Moreover, since the polyurethane yarn has elasticity, it can be a so-called stretch lace in which the raschel lace fabric has elasticity.

  According to a fifth characteristic configuration of the present invention, in the front-rear direction of the Russell knitting machine, a first kite to which the first chain knitting yarn is fed is a second kite to which the second chain knitting yarn is fed. The point is located on the front side.

  In the present invention, the second chain knitting yarn is a yarn that remains in the raschel lace fabric after the heat treatment step, and is relatively thick and highly visible. On the other hand, the first chain knitting yarn is relatively thin and has poor visibility because its functional purpose is welding.

  Even in such a situation, according to the present configuration, the first kite is on the front side of the machine base with respect to the second kite. For example, the first kite is relatively thin and inferior in visibility during knitting. Even if a trouble occurs such that the chain knitting yarn is cut, the operator can easily process the first chain knitting yarn from the front surface of the Russell knitting machine.

In a sixth characteristic configuration of the present invention, the first chain knitting yarn is a heat-welding polyurethane yarn,
The second chain knitting yarn is a nylon yarn.

  According to this configuration, by using a heat-adhesive polyurethane yarn as the first chain knitting yarn, the welding of this yarn can be ensured. As a result, the fraying problem can be solved. Further, by using nylon yarn for the second chain knitting yarn, the raschel lace knitted fabric can have a beautiful aesthetic feeling of a lace pattern with a waist and can be made into a prison.

According to a seventh characteristic configuration of the present invention, a yarn feeding tension is adjusted by adjusting a yarn feeding amount in a first chain knitting yarn feeding portion from a beam for feeding the first chain knitting yarn to a first kite. A first chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism;
A second chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism that adjusts the yarn feed tension by adjusting the yarn feed amount at the second chain knitting yarn feed portion from the beam for feeding the second chain knitting yarn to the second kite. It is in the point with.

  According to this configuration, the yarn supplying portions of the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn are each provided with a yarn supply amount adjusting mechanism, and by adjusting the yarn supply amount and adjusting the yarn supply tension, Yarns having different physical properties can be supplied to different ridges, respectively, so that a chain stitch structure composed of both these yarns can be knitted well.

In an eighth characteristic configuration of the present invention, the first chain knitting yarn is a heat-welding polyurethane yarn having a thickness of 17 to 156 dtex and a melting temperature of 150 to 180 ° C.
The second chain knitting yarn is a nylon yarn having a thickness of 33 to 78 dtex and a melting temperature of 200 ° C.,
The insertion thread is a polyurethane thread;
In the heat treatment step, the Russell knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step is heat-treated at a temperature within a heating temperature range of 190 ° C. or higher and 200 ° C. or lower for 30 to 90 seconds.

  According to this configuration, the first chain knitting yarn, the second chain knitting yarn, and the insertion yarn are used to knit the raschel knitted fabric. A portion where the chain stitch yarn is welded to the insertion yarn can be reliably formed. Furthermore, a raschel lace knitted fabric having stretchability can be obtained by allowing the insertion yarn to remain in the heat treatment.

The ninth feature of the present invention is
In the knitting process,
A conjugate yarn comprising the fusible yarn portion and the hardly fusible yarn portion in one yarn is fed to one ridge, and has the first chain knitting portion and the second chain knitting portion. The knitted fabric is knitted into a chain knitted structure, and the raschel knitted fabric is knitted by inserting the insertion thread into the chain knitted structure.

  According to this configuration, in knitting the raschel knitted fabric, the chain stitch structure is knitted using the conjugate yarn as the chain stitch yarn. The conjugate yarn used here is a yarn in which one yarn includes both a fusible yarn portion and a hardly fusible yarn portion, and its meltability is determined by a heat treatment performed in a heat treatment step. The yarn part melts and exhibits weldability. As described above, since the insertion yarn is inserted into the chain stitch structure, the first chain stitch portion of the conjugate yarn comes into contact with the insertion yarn at the loop portion of the chain stitch structure.

As a result, in this way, a raschel knitted fabric (raw fabric) is obtained in the knitting process, and when this raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment process, the hardly fusible yarn portion and the weft crossing that constitute the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric The yarn remains as a yarn that retains its knitted fabric form, and the first chain knitting portion of the chain stitch structure and the insertion yarn are well welded at the contact portion.
As a result, a raschel lace knitted fabric capable of effectively solving the fraying problem can be obtained.

  When the conjugate yarn is used in this way, it is only necessary to use one wrinkle in the knitting of the knitted fabric, and the knitting can be easily performed.

  According to a tenth characteristic configuration of the present invention, in the knitting step, the entire surface of the Russell knitted fabric is knitted with a chain knitting structure having the first chain knitting site, the second chain knitting site, and an insertion yarn. It is in.

  In this configuration, it is possible to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric in which fraying problems hardly occur on the entire knitted fabric.

  According to an eleventh characteristic configuration of the present invention, in the knitting step, a thread different from the insertion thread is applied to a chain knitting structure formed by the first chain knitting site and the second chain knitting site. In the knitting form in which a part is floated on the back surface of the thread, it is inserted as a floating insertion thread.

According to this configuration, a raschel lace knitted fabric having a good touch can be obtained by inserting the floating insertion yarn into a structure in which the yarn floats on one surface of the raschel knitted fabric.
As this type of floating insertion yarn, cotton yarn, rayon yarn, polyester multifilament yarn and the like are preferable.

Organizational chart showing a part of a chain stitch structure of a raschel knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention It is a knitting structure | tissue figure which shows the knitting | organization form of a chain stitch structure and the insertion yarn inserted in the said chain stitch structure. Side view showing the configuration of a Russell knitting machine capable of independently feeding two chain knitting yarns according to the present invention The figure which shows the knitting part of the Russell knitting machine shown in FIG. Schematic cross-sectional view explaining the movement of the knitting needle and the groundwork of the chain stitch part Schematic cross-sectional view for explaining the movement of the jacquard bar and insertion thread ridge (thermal bonding heel) FIG. 2 is an operation diagram showing the movement form of the chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn with respect to the knitting needle for forming the knitted structure shown in FIG. Manufacturing process diagram for manufacturing Russell lace fabric Organizational chart showing a part of the chain stitch structure of the Russell knitted fabric of another embodiment

  The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric, and the process mainly includes a knitting step s1 and a heat treatment step s2 for heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric 20 obtained through the knitting step s1, as shown in FIG. It is a process. The heat treatment step s2 is also called a heat setting step, and after passing through both the steps s1 and s2, a dyeing step s3 for dyeing the raschel lace fabric and a resin treatment drying step s4 for resin treatment are performed, and in the cutting and sewing step s5 The product can be obtained by cutting and sewing so as to satisfy the required application. An example of a product is women's clothing.

  In the knitting step s1, the characteristic features of the embodiment shown below are that the raschel knitted fabric 20 is knitted using the unique raschel knitting machine 200 improved by the inventors, and the raschel knitted fabric 20 is at least heat-treated. There is in point to do.

  FIG. 1 shows one of a large number of chain knitted fabrics 19 constituting the Russell knitted fabric 20 in this embodiment, and main yarns (first chain knitted yarn 21a, second chain knitted yarn constituting the fabric 19). The knitting state of the yarn 21b, the weft transition yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23) is shown. As will be described later, a very large number of weft cross yarns 22 are knitted in the actual raschel knitted fabric 20, but only two of them are shown in FIG.

  FIG. 2 is a view showing the relationship between the chain knitting yarn 21 constituting such a knitted fabric structure and the insertion yarn 23 forming a pair with the chain knitting yarn 21 in the present invention. In the knitting of the raschel knitted fabric 20 of the present invention, the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the second chain knitting yarn 21b form the chain knitted fabric 19 by the same operation, and therefore one of them is omitted in this figure. (Same in FIG. 7A). In FIG. 2, other yarns other than the chain stitch yarn 21 constituting the chain stitch structure 19 and the insertion yarn 23 inserted therein are also omitted.

  FIG. 7 shows the positional relationship between each yarn (chain knitting yarn 21 and insertion yarn 23) and the knitting needle 72 in the knitting operation when the raschel knitted fabric 20 having this structure is knitted. In the figure, the horizontal arrows correspond to the movement of the hooks (the ground hook 65 in the case of (a) and the insertion thread hook 61 in the case of (b)) with respect to each needle 72.

  In FIG. 2, each chain knitting structure 19 is a knitting structure independent of each other. However, in reality, a large number of weft transition yarns 22 (see FIG. 1) are knitted between these structures 19 to form a raschel knitted fabric 20. To do.

  Referring to FIG. 1, the characteristic of the raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted through the knitting step s1 is that the chain knitting yarn 21 to be the chain knitting structure 19 includes two types of yarns 21a. Further, the insertion yarn 23 is inserted along the knitting direction C (knitting fabric warp direction) into the chain stitch structure 19 formed in this manner.

In the raschel knitted fabric 20, one yarn 21a of the chain knitting yarn 21 is a hot melt yarn made of a meltable material. This hot melt yarn 21a is also called a heat welding yarn. The yarn 21a has thermoplasticity, is melted by being heated to a predetermined temperature or higher, and is welded to the insertion yarn 23 which is made of the same kind of material as the hot-melt yarn 21a and is in contact therewith.
The other yarn 21b of the chain stitch yarn 21 is a yarn made of a hardly meltable material having a melting temperature higher than that of the meltable material.
Therefore, in this embodiment, the first chain knitting yarn 21a becomes the first chain knitting yarn portion made of a meltable material, and the second chain knitting yarn 21b becomes the second chain knitting yarn portion made of a hardly fusible material. .

  Although only one chain stitch structure 19 is shown in FIG. 1, in this embodiment, all chain stitch structures 19 (all wales) forming the Russell knitted fabric 20 have the above-described configuration. As a result, in the heat treatment step s2, the hot melt yarn 21a constituting a part of the chain stitch structure 19 is welded to at least the insertion yarn 23, and fraying occurs regardless of how and where the Russell lace fabric is cut. You can get a Russell lace product that you never have.

Here, almost all of the hot melt yarn 21a is melted by the heat treatment. According to the confirmation of the inventors, in the raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention, the portion Y where the hot melt yarn 21a is welded to the insertion yarn 23 is effective in preventing fraying. That is, even if the expansion / contraction operation is performed on the knitted fabric, the fraying prevention effect is not lost.
The summary of the invention is as described above.

  Hereinafter, 1. Knitted fabric organization, 2. 2. Yarn use; 3. Russell knitting machine A description will be given in the order of manufacturing the raschel lace fabric.

1. As shown in FIG. 1, a raschel knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention includes a plurality of chain knitting yarns 21a and 21b that respectively constitute chain knitting fabrics 19 extending in the knitting direction C, and these chain knitting yarns 21a, The weft yarn 22 knitted across the knitted fabric weft direction W between the chain knitted fabric 19 formed by 21b, and each course (actually, the chain knitted fabric 19 of the chain knitted fabric 19 along the knitting direction C). The insertion thread 23 is inserted into the loop portion r3 (in the sinker loop).

As can be seen from FIG. 3 and FIG. 3, the chain knitting yarn 21 includes a first chain knitting yarn 21a which is a hot melt yarn and a second chain knitting yarn 21b having a melting temperature higher than that of the hot melt yarn 21a. The chain stitch structure 19 is knitted by feeding yarns from different beams B1 and B2 to the individual ridges 64a and 64b.
Further, the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the chain knitting structure 19 formed by the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the second chain knitting yarn 21b by feeding the beam B4 to the insertion yarn hook 61.

  As described above, in the raschel knitted fabric 20 of the present invention, the chain knitting structure 19 is formed by the first and second chain knitting yarns 21 a and 21 b, and the weft crossing between the chain knitting structures 19 is performed. While the yarn 22 is knitted, the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into each chain stitch structure 19.

  Here, the weft transition yarn 22 includes a net yarn and a pattern yarn which are the base of the raschel knitted fabric 20, and the net yarn constitutes a basic net of the raschel knitted fabric 20 together with the chain knitting yarn 21. On the other hand, the pattern yarn is a large number of yarns knitted to determine the lace pattern, and the lace pattern is determined according to the type of yarn and the manner of weft travel.

  That is, a large number of lattices are formed by the yarns 21a, 21b, 22, and 23, and through holes are formed surrounded by the respective lattices, and a lace pattern is determined by the shape (shape of the through holes) and arrangement of the respective lattices. To do. Further, in the raschel knitted fabric 20, a pattern portion in which the amount of yarn arranged per unit area is dense, and a base portion (including the basic net described above) in which the amount of yarn arranged per unit area is sparse. It is called, and the pattern is also determined by the shape and arrangement of these handle portions and base portions.

2. Yarn Use Chain Knitting Yarn As chain knitting yarn 21, first chain knitting yarn 21a and second chain knitting yarn 21b are used.
In the present embodiment, it is novel to form the same chain stitch structure 19 with a plurality of chain stitch yarns 21 as described above. However, the second chain chain has been conventionally used to form the chain stitch structure 19. It is also novel that the first chain knitting yarn 21a is added in addition to the chain knitting yarn 21b, and that the yarn 21a is a hot melt yarn.

  As the first chain knitting yarn 21a, for example, polyester-based polyurethane (trade name: Mobilon, manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd.) is used. However, in this embodiment, the thread 21a has a relatively thin thickness of 17 to 56 dtex (ditex). This yarn is a heat-weldable polyurethane yarn that is melted by heat treatment and welded to a contacting yarn, and at the same time, a single fiber yarn (filament yarn) made of a stretchable material. With this yarn, it is virtually impossible to hold the chain stitch structure 19 with this yarn alone, and the chain knitting is also difficult. In FIG. 1, it is drawn relatively thin for easy understanding. The melting temperature of the yarn 21a is 150 to 180 ° C.

  As the second chain knitting yarn 21b, a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of synthetic resin is used. For example, it is made of polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, etc., and its thickness is about 33 to 56 dtex (ditex). This yarn 21b is a yarn that independently formed the chain stitch structure 19 in the conventional stretch raschel lace. The melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn 21b is about 200 ° C.

As the weft transition yarn 22, a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of synthetic resin is used. For example, it consists of polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, etc., and its thickness is about 33 to 78 dtex (ditex). This yarn 22 becomes a net yarn and a pattern yarn in the raschel lace fabric.
The melting temperature of the yarn 22 is also about 200 ° C.

As the insertion yarn 23, for example, polyester-based polyurethane is used. However, the thickness of the yarn 23 is 156 to 310 dtex (ditex), which is thicker than the first chain knitting yarn 21a described above. In terms of material, this yarn is the same type of material as the hot melt yarn 21a, but has a high melting temperature and is thick, so that the yarn remains even after the heat treatment step. And since this thread | yarn has a strong elastic property, after a knitting, stretch property is provided to the raschel knitted fabric 20. FIG. The melting temperature of the yarn 22 is about 210 ° C.
According to the inventors' investigation, it has been clarified that the heat-melting yarn 21a is substantially melted and at least a part of the surface of the insertion yarn 23 is melted by a heat treatment to be described later and a good welded state is obtained.

3. Russell Knitting Machine The Russell knitted fabric 20 used in the present invention can be knitted by, for example, a back jacquard raschel knitting machine. The back jacquard raschel knitting machine 200 (hereinafter simply referred to as a knitting machine) guides the chain knitting yarn 21 (21a, 21b), the weft transition yarn 22, and the insertion yarn 23 toward the knitting portion 201 provided in the vicinity of the knitting needle 72. It has yarn introduction means (specifically, ridges 61, 62, 63, 64a, 64b).
In this embodiment, the hooks 64a and 64b for introducing the chain knitting yarn 21 toward the knitting portion 201 are forward of the machine base from the other hooks 61, 62 and 63 (on the right side of FIG.筬 64a is positioned in front of the machine base from 筬 64b.
The reed 61 that guides the insertion yarn 23 toward the knitting portion 201 is behind the knitting machine (on the left side of FIG. 3) than the reeds 62 and 63 that guide the weft crossing yarn 22 toward the knitting portion 201. ("Back side of machine base"). Here, the back of the knitting machine is a direction from the back surface of the knitting needle 72 toward the hook portion. However, the reed 62 that guides the weft crossing yarn 22 toward the knitting portion 201 may be provided between the reeds 64b and 63.

  Specifically, as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, the knitting machine 200 is realized by an insertion yarn hook 61, a jacquard hook jacquard bar 62, a number of handle hooks 63, and a pair of ground hooks 64a and 64b. Is done. The chain knitting yarns 21a and 21b are threaded through the ground yarns 64a and 64b, respectively, and the weft-transfer yarn 22 is threaded through the jacquard bar 62 with respect to the net yarn, and is threaded into the handle rod 63 with respect to the pattern yarn. The insertion thread 23 passes through the insertion thread cage 61.

  Each of these ridges 61 to 64a and 64b are arranged radially toward the knitting portion 201 where the knitting needle 72 captures the chain knitting yarn 21, and the knitting needle 72 is behind the knitting machine in the direction of capturing the chain knitting yarn 21. As it goes, ground hooks 64a and 64b, a plurality of handle hooks 63, a jacquard bar 62, and an insertion thread hook 61 are arranged in this order. Accordingly, the yarns are arranged in the order of the knitting machine from the predetermined knitting position in the order of the chain knitting yarn 21 (21a, 21b), the plurality of pattern yarns 22, the net yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23. In the present embodiment, the ground strand 64a for the first chain knitting yarn 21a is positioned on the front side with respect to the ground strand 64b of the second chain knitting yarn 21b, and the first chain knitting yarn 21a is in the foremost row of the knitting machine 200. This makes it easier for the operator to handle the first chain knitting yarn 21a.

  A large number of knitting needles 72 are arranged in a direction (front and back direction in FIG. 3 and FIG. 4) perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the knitting machine (left and right direction in FIGS. 3 and 4), and needles that serve as holding means for holding each knitting needle 72 It is fixed to the bar 69. The needle bar 69 moves the knitting needles 72 up and down. Further, the needle bar 69 is operated, and the yarns guided to the respective ridges 61 to 64a and 64b are guided to predetermined knitting positions.

  Each of the reeds 61 to 64a and 64b is configured so that each of the corresponding yarns 23, 22, 21a, and 21b is synchronized with the up-and-down movement of the knitting needle 72 in the space behind the knitting machine 72 in the space behind the knitting machine. 22, 21 a, 21 b are moved in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged (knitting stitch movement), and the yarns 23, 22, 21 a, 21 b corresponding to the knitting needles 72 in the space in front of the knitting machine are connected to the knitting needles 72. Underlap (insertion movement) to move in the direction in which the In addition to these wrapping motions, a so-called swing (swinging motion) that moves in a direction perpendicular to the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged is performed. Specifically, there are two swing operations.

  In the swing-in (back swing) operation that is the first swing operation, the yarns 23 and 22 that pass through the side of the knitting needle 72 and correspond to the space in front of the knitting machine from the space behind the knitting machine with respect to the knitting needle 72. , 21a, 21b are moved. In the swing-out (front swing) operation that is the second swing operation, each yarn corresponding to the space behind the knitting machine moves from the space in front of the knitting machine to the knitting needle 72 through the side of the knitting needle 72. . When the guides attached to the respective ridges 61 to 64a and 64b are operated, the corresponding yarns pass around the knitting needle 72 in accordance with a predetermined route, and the raschel including the corresponding yarns 23, 22, 21a and 21b. A knitted fabric 20 is formed. FIG. 7A shows the chain knitting yarn 21 and FIG. 7B shows the operation positional relationship with respect to each knitting needle 72 for the insertion yarn 23.

Now, with respect to the above-described scissors 61 to 64a and 64b, the Russell knitting machine 200 for knitting the Russell knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention has the ground scissors 64a (first streak) from the beam B1 that feeds the first chain knitting yarn 21a. A first chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism TC1 for adjusting the yarn feed tension by adjusting the yarn feed amount at the first chain knitting yarn feeding portion b1 up to 筬) is provided.
Furthermore, the yarn supply tension is adjusted by adjusting the yarn supply amount in the second chain knitting yarn supply portion b2 from the beam B2 supplying the second chain knitting yarn 21b to the ground rope 64a (second heel). A two-chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism TC2 is also provided.

  The knitting unit 201 includes a stitch comb bar 71, a trick plate bar 68, and a tong bar 70. The tongue bar 70 has a plurality of tongs corresponding to the knitting needles 72 at the tip. The Russell knitting machine 200 knits the Russell knitted fabric 20 described above by the operations of the ridges 61 to 64a and 64b and the needle bar 69. Then, the raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted by the knitting assisting action of the stitch comb bar 71 is auxiliary knitted, passed through the trick plate bar 68, and the raschel knitted fabric 20 is wound by the winding portion provided in the vicinity of the knitted portion 201. take.

  FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view schematically illustrating the movement of the knitting needle 72 and the cloth 64a, 64b in the chain knitting portion, and the chain knitting yarn 21a in the order of FIG. 5 (a) to FIG. 5 (e). , 21b, the knitting work of the chain stitch part proceeds. The knitting needle 72 has a hook portion 50 that locks the chain knitting yarns 21a and 21b at a distal end portion, and a knitting needle stem 51 at a proximal end portion. A tong 52 for opening and closing an opening formed by the hook portion 50 is formed at the tip of the tongue bar 70 shown in FIG. The knitting needle 72 and the tongue 52 are formed so as to be able to be raised and lowered individually with respect to the ground 64a and 64b. First, only the knitting of the chain stitch structure 19 will be described with reference to FIG. 5, and the weft transition yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23 knitted into the chain stitch structure 19 will be described later.

  As shown in FIG. 5A, the hook portion 50 is a new preceding loop-shaped portion r <b> 1 (needle loop) formed by the chain knitting yarn 21 in a state where the ground hooks 64 a and 64 b are arranged in front of the knitting needle 72. ) And the tongue 52 closes the opening of the hook portion 50. Next, as shown in FIG. 5B, the knitting needle 72 rises toward the ground 64 a and 64 b with respect to the tongue 52. As a result, the opening of the hook portion 50 is opened, and the preceding loop-shaped portion r1 of the chain knitting yarn 21 hooked by the hook portion 50 comes out of the hook portion 50 and moves to the knitting needle stem 51.

  Next, as shown in FIG. 5C, the ground bars 64 a and 64 b backswing with respect to the knitting needle 72. Next, the grounds 64a and 64b overlap, and further perform a front swing as shown in FIG. 5 (d). As a result, the chain knitting yarns 21a and 21b guided to the ground beams 64a and 64b move so as to wind the knitting needle 72, thereby forming a new loop-shaped portion r2 (needle loop). The new loop portion r2 is hooked by the hook portion 50. Next, as shown in FIG. 5D, the tongue 52 rises toward the hook portion 50 and closes the opening of the hook portion 50. At this time, the knitting needle 72 is formed with a preceding loop-shaped portion r1 formed on the knitting needle stem 51 and a new loop-shaped portion r2 to which the hook portion 50 is locked.

Next, as shown in FIG. 5E, when the knitting needle 72 and the tongue 52 are lowered, the preceding loop-shaped portion r1 pulls out the knitting needle 72 and moves to the trick plate 53 side. Then, in a state where the ground hooks 64a and 64b are arranged in front of the knitting needle 72, the hook portion 50 hooks a new loop-shaped portion r2 formed by the chain knitting yarns 21a and 21b, and is almost the same state as in FIG. It becomes. Then, by repeating the operation cycle shown in FIGS. 5A to 5E, the loop-shaped portions r1 and r2 are sequentially formed, and the loop-shaped portions that connect the loop-shaped portions r1 and r2. A chain stitch structure 19 in which r3 (sinker loop) is sequentially formed is sequentially formed.
In the present embodiment, the knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment is knitted by knitting the weft transition yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23 into the chain knitting fabric 19 while performing such a knitting operation of the chain knitting fabric 19. Can do.

FIG. 6 is a cross-sectional view schematically illustrating the movement of the jacquard bar 62 and the insertion thread ridge 61, and the operation proceeds in the order of FIG. 6 (a) to FIG. 6 (c).
6 (a) corresponds to FIG. 5 (c), FIG. 6 (b) corresponds to FIG. 5 (d), and FIG. 6 (c) corresponds to FIG. 5 (e). FIG. As described above, in the Russell knitting machine 200, the jacquard bar 62 is arranged at the rear of the knitting machine rather than the ground ropes 64a and 64b that guide the chain knitting yarn 21. Further, the insertion yarn ridge 61 is arranged behind the knitting machine rather than the jacquard bar 62.

  As shown in FIGS. 6A and 6B, in the state where the ground rods 64 a and 64 b are arranged at the rear of the knitting machine with respect to the knitting needle 72, the jacquard bar 62 and the insertion yarn rod 61 are also knitted needles 72. Is arranged behind the knitting machine. Further, as shown in FIG. 6B, in the state where the ground hooks 64 a and 64 b are arranged in front of the knitting machine with respect to the knitting needle 72, the jacquard bar 62 and the insertion yarn hook 61 are also arranged in front of the knitting needle 72. The

  As shown in FIG. 6B, the jacquard bar 62 and the insertion yarn hook 61 are inserted into the insertion yarn 23 and the weft crossing yarn that are introduced by underlapping in the state where the ground hooks 64a and 64b are backswing. 22 straddles the chain stitch yarn 21. In this state, when a new course is formed by the chain knitting yarn 21, the insertion yarn 23 and the weft transition yarn 22 are knitted into the course. In this way, the insertion yarn hook 61 and the jacquard bar 62 operate in synchronization with the swinging motion of the ground hooks 64a and 64b.

  In the Russell knitting machine 200, the jacquard bar 62 is disposed in front of the knitting machine with respect to the insertion yarn hook 61. As a result, when the insertion yarn 23 and the weft crossing yarn 22 are knitted into the chain knitting portion formed by the ground 64a, 64b, the insertion yarn 23 guided to the knitting position is guided to the knitting position. The weft transfer yarn 22 is positioned behind the knitting machine, and the weft transfer yarn 22 is positioned closer to the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric 20 than the insertion yarn 23.

The above is the equipment configuration for knitting the raschel knitted fabric 20 unique to the present invention and the progress of the knitting.
Hereinafter, the manufacturing process for obtaining the raschel lace fabric will be described with reference to FIG.

4). Manufacturing Russell Lace Knitted Fabric Knitting Process First, the knitting process s1 is prepared. That is, selection of each yarn 21a, 21b, 22, 23 used for knitting of the raschel knitted fabric 20, determination of a pattern to be formed on the raschel knitted fabric 20, and design of the knitted fabric for forming a desired knitted structure are completed. To complete preparation for knitting fabric.
Then, the yarn is threaded on the Russell knitting machine 200 according to this design.

  In this knitting step s1, the raschel knitted fabric 20 knits the yarns 21a, 21b, 22, 23 such as the chain knitting yarns 21a, 21b and the insertion yarn 23 in accordance with a pre-designed knitting order, as shown in FIG. A raschel knitted fabric 20 having a large number of chain stitch structures 19 shown in the knitted fabric weft direction W is knitted.

  The raschel knitted fabric 20 has a structure in which the chain stitch structure 19 is formed by both the first chain knitting yarn 21 a and the second chain knitting yarn 21 b, and the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the chain knitting fabric 19. As described above, since a relatively thick polyurethane yarn is inserted as the insertion yarn 23, the knitted fabric 20 has elasticity. The Russell knitting machine 200 performs knitting in a state where the insertion yarn 23 is stretched (a state in which tension is applied to some extent).

  Further, as shown above, the amount of yarn fed at the first chain knitting yarn feeding portion b1 from the beam B1 for feeding the first chain knitting yarn 21a to the ground rope 64a (first heel) is adjusted. The second chain knitting yarn from the beam B2 for feeding the second chain knitting yarn 21b to the ground 64a (second heel) is provided with a first chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism TC1 for adjusting the yarn feeding tension. The second chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism TC2 for adjusting the yarn feed tension by adjusting the yarn feed amount at the yarn feeding portion b2 is also provided, so that the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the second chain knitting are provided in the knitting. A good yarn supply balance between the yarns 21b is obtained.

The Russell knitting machine 200 was 1 rack = 4800 rotations, and the yarn supply amount of each yarn was as follows.
1st chain knitting yarn 21a 100-140 cm
Second chain knitting yarn 21b 100-140 cm
Weft crossing thread 22 20-80cm
Insertion thread 23-55cm

  The raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted in this way is provided with two polyurethane yarns 21a and 23 and each chain knitted structure 19 is knitted.

Heat treatment step In the heat treatment step s2, the raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted in the knitting step s1 is a temperature not lower than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn 21a and not higher than the melting temperature of the other yarns 21b, 22, 23 (for example, 200 C.). That is, heat setting is performed, for example, for 1 minute at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn 21a (maximum 180 ° C.) and equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft transition yarn 22 (minimum 200 ° C.). This heat treatment time is a time during which the first chain knitting yarn 21b melts and exhibits weldability, and the second chain knitting yarn 21b, the weft transition yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23 maintain the yarn (remain as a yarn). is there. In this manner, the first chain knitting yarn 21a can be melted and welded to the contacting yarn while maintaining the pattern as the Russell lace. In particular, welding of the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 occurs favorably.

  As a result, the first chain knitting yarn 21a is welded to the insertion yarn 23 at least in the contact portion Y between the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 shown in FIG. The first chain knitting yarn 21a is partially welded to the other yarns 21b and 22, but this portion Y is the strongest.

  That is, the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 are different from each other in melting temperature (here, the temperature at which the first strand knitting yarn 21a completely melts). On the other hand, the second chain knitting yarn 21b is made of polyamide, and the weft transition yarn 22 is made of polyamide, rayon, or the like. Therefore, the degree of welding with the first chain knitting yarn 21a is low.

  In heating the raschel knitted fabric 20, the knitted fabric 20 is stretched, and the insertion yarn 23 is maintained in a stretched state (tensed state) to some extent. As a result, as described above, welding between the polyurethane yarns is satisfactorily generated, and the raschel lace knitted fabric that has undergone this step retains stretchability due to the shrinkage of the insertion yarn 23.

  In this way, the raschel knitted fabric 20 is heated to bond the contact portion Y between the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23, and loosely bond the chain knitting yarns 21 to each other to form a raschel lace knitted fabric. The process proceeds to the dyeing step s3.

Dyeing process In the dyeing process s3, the formed Russell lace fabric is refined or dyed.

Resin Treatment Drying Step This resin treatment drying step s4 is a step of applying a flexible material, and can impart flexibility to the raschel lace fabric.
After the resin treatment, the raschel lace knitted fabric is dried with warm air of about 160 ° C. for 30 seconds.

Cutting and Sewing Process In the cutting and sewing process s5, the knitted fabric is cut into a predetermined shape and sewn according to the use of the raschel lace knitted fabric.
The raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention can almost completely eliminate the problem of fraying, so that troubles associated with fraying do not occur during cutting and sewing.

  According to the raschel knitted fabric 20 of this embodiment as described above, the insertion yarn 23 having stretchability is knitted into the chain stitch structure 19 so that the chain stitch structure 19 is stretchable, and has stretch properties. Russell lace fabric is realized. A part of the contact portion Y between the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 is bonded. This prevents misalignment between the chain stitch structure 19 and the insertion yarn 23 and misalignment between the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b, thereby preventing distortion of the lattice. For example, even if an external force due to a manufacturing process such as sewing or cutting of a raschel lace fabric, or an external force due to a use state such as wearing or washing is applied, distortion of the lattice is prevented, and the shape of the lattice is maintained. A knitted fabric with a good aesthetic appearance can be obtained, and the excellent aesthetic appearance can be maintained for a long time.

  In addition, since the insertion yarn 23 is bonded and the chain stitch yarns 21 are partially bonded to each other by utilizing the adhesiveness of the first chain knitting yarn 21a knitted to the entire raschel lace knitted fabric, partially different yarns However, it is possible to obtain visual and tactile unity without losing aesthetics and texture.

[Another embodiment]
(1) In the above embodiment, the first chain knitting yarn 21a and the second chain knitting yarn 21b are fed to the individual ridges 64a and 64b from different beams, and the yarns 21a and 21b The case where the chain stitch structure 19 is knitted and the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the chain stitch structure 19 is shown.
In this way, instead of using the two yarns 21a and 21b, the heat-fusible conjugate yarn 210 is adopted as the chain knitting yarn, and one chain knitting structure 19 is made into a meltable yarn made of a meltable material. The raschel knitted fabric may be knitted with a chain knitted fabric 19 including a first chain knitted portion as the portion 210 a and a second chain knitted portion 210 b as the hardly fusible yarn portion 210 b made of a hardly fusible material.
This alternative embodiment is shown in FIG.
The heat-fusible conjugate yarn is obtained by simultaneously spinning a plurality of different components (2 in the case shown in FIG. 9), and has a structure in which these components are bonded together in the length direction. It is. As this type of conjugate yarn, a core-sheath type, a bonded type (side-by-side type), and the like are known as the configuration, and FIG. 9 shows a side-by-side type.
In the case of the present invention, a polyester-based polyurethane (having a melting temperature of 150 ° C. to 180 ° C.) that is a meltable material and a heat-fusible conjugate yarn using nylon that can be regarded as a hardly meltable material are used. Can do.

In this alternative embodiment, in the heat treatment step,
Heat treatment that heats the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting process to a temperature not higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material and the weft yarn in the knitted fabric tension state is lower than the melting temperature of the fusible material. It is possible to obtain a raschel lace fabric by executing the processing time in which the yarn portion 210b and the weft crossover yarn 22 remain as yarns.

  On the other hand, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, in the one chain knitting structure 19 shown in FIG. 1, the first chain knitting yarn 21a has the first chain knitting portion, and the second chain knitting yarn 21b has the second chain knitting portion. It is formed.

(2) In the above embodiment, as the first chain knitting yarn 21a, one having a thickness of 17 to 56 dtex is used. Specifically, it was possible to adopt up to 156 dtex.
Further, as the second chain knitting yarn 21b, when nylon or polyester is used, yarns of 33, 40, 44, 56, and 78 dtex can be adopted.
On the other hand, when the weft crossing yarn 22 is made of nylon or polyester, yarns of 33, 40, 44, 56, and 78 dtex can be adopted.
The heat treatment temperature of the heat treatment step s2 is set to be equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn 21a to be specifically used and equal to or lower than the low temperature side of the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft transition yarn 22. The second chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft transition yarn 22 can be processed only for the time remaining as a yarn.
Specifically, when the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn 21a is 150 to 180 ° C and the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn 21b and the weft transition yarn 22 is 200 ° C, 180 ° C or more and 200 ° C or less. (Preferably 190 ° C. or more and 200 ° C. or less). The heat treatment time is about 30 to 90 seconds. Since this processing time is very short, the second chain knitting yarn 21b, the weft transition yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23 remain as yarns.

(3) In the above embodiment, the first chain knitting yarn 21a, the second chain knitting yarn 21b, and the insertion yarn 23 are knitted on the entire surface of the Russell knitted fabric 20. However, the key of the present invention is the heat Since the first chain knitting portion (for example, the first chain knitting yarn 21a) made of a meltable material is welded to the insertion yarn 23, depending on the intended use of the raschel lace knitted fabric with the cutting (cutting portion) Accordingly, the first chain knitting site, the second chain knitting site, and the insertion yarn 23 may be knitted into only a part of the chain knitting structure 19.

(4) In the above embodiment, as the insertion yarn 23, a polyurethane yarn is inserted as a yarn for the purpose of imparting stretchability to the raschel lace fabric. In addition to the yarn 23, a yarn different from the insertion yarn 23 may be inserted into the chain knitting structure 19 obtained by knitting as a floating insertion yarn in a knitting form in which a part is floated on the back surface of the raschel knitted fabric. .
When a cotton yarn, a rayon yarn, a multifilament yarn or the like is selected as such a floating insertion yarn, the touch can be particularly improved.

(5) In the above-described embodiment, the chain knitting yarn 21 that forms the chain knitting structure 19 at a predetermined knitted fabric weft direction W position, which is conventionally referred to as “warp traverse”, is used to prevent fraying. There is no particular description regarding the knitting in which the chain knitting structure 19 is formed in several courses at the position where the chain knitting structure 19 is formed on the wale and then returned to the original wale to form the chain knitting structure 19 further.
The raschel lace knitted fabric of the present invention effectively prevents “warp traverse” because fraying is effectively prevented. Or even if it provides, the number of the knitting directions C can be reduced markedly. As a result, the “warp traverse” portions that have been provided relatively frequently from the Russell lace knitted fabric are remarkably reduced, so that the raschel knitted fabric (particularly the net composed of the chain knitted fabric 19 and the net yarn 22) is frequently used. A beautiful aesthetic can be presented without steps appearing.

(6) In the above-described embodiment, the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the sinker in the knitting direction C from the inner side to the outer side in the knitting direction C as shown in FIGS. Although an example of so-called direct hooking inserted into the loop has been shown, so-called reverse hooking in which the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the sinker loop from the outside of the chain braid toward the inside may be used.

19 Chain knitted fabric 20 Russell lace fabric (Russell stretch lace fabric)
21a First chain knitting yarn (hot melt yarn, first chain knitting part)
21b Second chain knitting yarn (second chain knitting part)
22 Weft Crossing Thread 23 Insertion Thread 210 Chain Knitting Yarn 210a Meltable Yarn Part (First Chain Knitting Part)
210b Refractory yarn part (second chain knitting part)
Y Contact part C Knitting direction W Knitting width direction

A plurality of chain stitch yarns each forming a chain stitch structure extending in the knitting direction;
A weft transition yarn knitted across a plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and a hot melt yarn which is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts to exhibit weldability A knitting step of knitting a raschel knitted fabric on a raschel knitting machine;
The first characteristic configuration of the manufacturing method of the raschel lace knitted fabric that performs the heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to obtain the raschel lace knitted fabric,
In the knitting process,
As a first chain knitting portion, a meltable yarn portion made of heat-weldable polyurethane, which is a meltable material that is partly or wholly melted by heat treatment,
As the second chain knitting portion, a hardly fusible yarn portion made of a hardly fusible material having a melting temperature higher than that of the fusible material,
While knitting a plurality of chain stitch structures provided with the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure,
The weft transition yarn is a hardly fusible yarn made of a hardly fusible material having a melting temperature higher than that of the fusible material ,
Inserting an insert yarn made of a polyurethane material into the chain stitch structure to knit a raschel knitted fabric,
In the heat treatment step,
The raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step is in a knitted fabric tension state in which a contact portion where the first chain knitting portion and the insertion yarn are in contact is formed of the hardly fusible material and the weft cross yarn A heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material for a processing time in which the hardly fusible yarn portion and the weft transition yarn remain as yarns, and the contact portion is welded. Let's get a knitted lace fabric.

According to this configuration, when knitting a raschel knitted fabric, both the first chain knitted portion and the second chain knitted portion are provided, and one chain knitted structure is knitted. In this knitting, an insertion yarn made of a polyurethane material which is the same material as the meltable material forming the first chain knitting portion made of heat-welding polyurethane is inserted into the chain stitch structure. By proceeding knitting in this way, the first chain knitting site and the second chain knitting site form the same chain knitting structure, and the contact portion between the first chain knitting site and the insertion yarn is in the loop site. It is formed.

The second characteristic configuration of the present invention is:
The first chain knitting yarn made of the fusible material and the first chain knitting yarn which is a filament yarn and the second chain knitting yarn made of the hardly fusible material are fed from different beams to individual wrinkles, and the first chain knitting yarn Knitting the first chain knitting site and the second chain knitting site with the second chain knitting yarn into the same chain knitting structure,
Knitting a raschel knitted fabric by inserting the insertion yarn into a chain knitting structure formed by the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn;
In the heat treatment step,
A heat treatment for heating the Russell knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature not higher than the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn and not lower than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn; The processing time for the chain knitting yarn and the weft cross yarn to remain on the yarn is executed to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric.

According to this configuration, when knitting a raschel warp knitting fabric, Ri Do from the molten material, strand in both the second chain stitch yarn consisting of the first chain stitch yarn and a flame fusible material Ru yarns der Organize the knitting organization. In this configuration, an insertion thread is inserted into the chain stitch structure. By proceeding knitting in this manner, the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn form the same chain knitting structure, and the contact portion between the first chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn is at the loop portion. It is formed.

A fourth characteristic configuration of the present invention is that the first chain knitting yarn is thinner than the insertion yarn.

A sixth characteristic configuration of the present invention is that the second chain knitting yarn is a nylon yarn.

According to the present configuration, the use of nylon yarn in the second chain stitch yarns, exhibits a beautiful aesthetic of lace pattern with a hip Russell knitted lace fabric, it can be the ones robust.

Claims (11)

A plurality of chain stitch yarns each forming a chain stitch structure extending in the knitting direction;
A weft transition yarn knitted across a plurality of chain knitting structures formed by the chain knitting yarn in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and a hot melt yarn which is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts to exhibit weldability A knitting step of knitting a raschel knitted fabric on a raschel knitting machine;
A heat treatment step of heat-treating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step, and a method for manufacturing a raschel lace knitted fabric to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric,
In the knitting process,
As a first chain knitting portion, a meltable yarn portion made of a meltable material that is heat-treated and partially or wholly melts,
As the second chain knitting portion, a hardly fusible yarn portion made of a hardly fusible material having a melting temperature higher than that of the fusible material,
While knitting a plurality of chain stitch structures provided with the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion in the same chain stitch structure,
Inserting an insertion thread made of the same material as the meltable material into the chain stitch structure to knit a raschel knitted fabric,
In the heat treatment step,
Heat treatment for heating the raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperature of the fusible material and the weft crossing yarn in a knitted fabric tension state at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the fusible material. A process for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric, which is executed for a processing time in which the hardly fusible yarn portion and the weft transition yarn remain as a yarn. The first chain knitting yarn made of the fusible material and the second chain knitting yarn made of the hardly fusible material are fed from different beams to individual wrinkles, and the first chain knitting yarn makes the first chain knitting yarn While knitting the second chain knitting site into the same chain knitting structure with the second chain knitting yarn,
Knitting a raschel knitted fabric by inserting the insertion yarn into a chain knitting structure formed by the first chain knitting yarn and the second chain knitting yarn;
In the heat treatment step,
A heat treatment for heating the Russell knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature not higher than the melting temperature of the second chain knitting yarn and the weft transition yarn and not lower than the melting temperature of the first chain knitting yarn; The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitted knitted fabric and the weft-crossing yarn are executed for a processing time during which the knitted yarn and the weft cross yarn remain as yarns to obtain a raschel lace knitted fabric. The first chain knitting yarn is thinner than the insertion yarn,
In the heat treatment in the heat treatment step, the surface of the insertion yarn melts,
The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the first chain knitting yarn is welded to the surface of the insertion yarn.   The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the first chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn are polyurethane yarns, and the first chain knitting yarn is thinner than the insertion yarn.   5. The first kite to which the first chain knitting yarn is fed is positioned in front of the second kite to which the second chain knitting yarn is fed in the front-rear direction of the Russell knitting machine. The manufacturing method of the raschel lace fabric as described in any one of these. The first chain knitting yarn is a heat-welding polyurethane yarn;
The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the second chain knitting yarn is a nylon yarn. A first chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism for adjusting a yarn feed tension by adjusting a yarn feed amount at a first chain knitting yarn feed portion from a beam for feeding the first chain knitting yarn to a first ridge. With
A second chain knitting yarn feed amount adjusting mechanism that adjusts the yarn feed tension by adjusting the yarn feed amount at the second chain knitting yarn feed portion from the beam for feeding the second chain knitting yarn to the second kite. The manufacturing method of the raschel lace fabric as described in any one of Claims 2-6 provided with these. The first chain knitting yarn is a heat-weldable polyurethane yarn having a thickness of 17 to 156 dtex and a melting temperature of 150 to 180 ° C.
The second chain knitting yarn is a nylon yarn having a thickness of 33 to 78 dtex and a melting temperature of 200 ° C.,
The insertion thread is a polyurethane thread;
In the said heat processing process, the Russell knitted fabric obtained through the said knitting process is heat-processed for 30 to 90 second at the temperature within the heating temperature range of 190 degreeC or more and 200 degrees C or less. Manufacturing method of raschel lace fabric. In the knitting process,
A conjugate yarn comprising the fusible yarn portion and the hardly fusible yarn portion in one yarn is fed to one ridge, and has the first chain knitting portion and the second chain knitting portion. The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitted knitted fabric is knitted into the chain knitted fabric and the knitted knitted fabric is knitted by inserting the insertion thread into the chain knitted fabric. In the knitting process,
The manufacture of the raschel lace knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein a knitted chain structure having the first chain knitted portion, the second chain knitted portion and an insertion yarn is knitted on the entire surface of the raschel knitted fabric. Method. In the knitting process,
In the knitting structure formed by the first chain knitting site and the second chain knitting site, a yarn different from the insertion yarn is used in the knitting structure in which a part is floated on the back surface of the raschel knitted fabric. The method for producing a raschel lace knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is inserted as

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