TW202406530A - 油中水型乳化化妝料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化妝料 Download PDFInfo
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- TW202406530A TW202406530A TW112122747A TW112122747A TW202406530A TW 202406530 A TW202406530 A TW 202406530A TW 112122747 A TW112122747 A TW 112122747A TW 112122747 A TW112122747 A TW 112122747A TW 202406530 A TW202406530 A TW 202406530A
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Abstract
本發明提供一種新型的油中水型乳化化妝料，其在塗布於肌膚上時不會泛白(具有透明性)，且沾水潤濕時不會變白。本發明之油中水型乳化化妝料，其係含有下述(A)至(E)，相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量為7質量%以上，且(E)的調配量為33質量%以下，(A)疏水化處理金屬氧化物；(B)非揮發性烴油或非揮發性矽油；(C)二價的金屬鹽；(D)戊二醇；(E)水。
Description
本發明涉及一種油中水型乳化化妝料。
防曬化妝料為了獲得高SPF(防曬係數：Sun Protection Factor)效果，往往調配大量的紫外線散射劑或紫外線吸收劑。作為紫外線散射劑，較佳係使用氧化鈦、氧化鋅、氧化鈰等金屬氧化物。紫外線散射劑不僅遮蔽UVB，還遮蔽UVA，在不刺激皮膚方面而言為優異。另一方面，紫外線吸收劑有刺激皮膚之虞。
在防曬化妝料中，為了降低皮膚刺激，會有想要減少紫外線吸收劑的調配，盡可能地多調配金屬氧化物(紫外線散射劑)的設計要求。然而，就金屬氧化物而言，提高調配量時，塗布在皮膚上時，會有難以塗開，在肌膚上殘留白色(透明性低)等問題發生之虞。進一步，調配大量金屬氧化物的防曬化妝料，會有在沾水潤濕時變白之問題。
本申請人在專利文獻1中，提案一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其在塗布於肌膚上時不會泛白(具有透明性)，且沾水潤濕時也不會變白。
[專利文獻]
專利文獻1：日本特開2017-155000號公報
本發明的課題在於提供一種新型的油中水型乳化化妝料，其在塗布於肌膚上時不會泛白(具有透明性)，且沾水潤濕時不會變白。
用於解決本發明的課題的方法如下所示。
1．一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其係含有下述(A)至(E)，
相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量為7質量%以上，且(E)的調配量為33質量%以下，
(A)疏水化處理金屬氧化物；
(B)非揮發性烴油或非揮發性矽油；
(C)二價的金屬鹽；
(D)戊二醇；
(E)水。
2．根據1.所述的油中水型乳化化妝料，其中，(B)為選自氫化聚異丁烯、角鯊烷、二甲聚矽氧烷中的1種以上。
3．根據1.或2.所述的油中水型乳化化妝料，其中，相對於化妝料整體，(D)的調配量為0.1質量%以上15質量%以下。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料塗布於肌膚上時不會泛白，且沾水潤濕時不會變白。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料含有下述(A)至(E)，
相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量為7質量%以上，且(E)的調配量為33質量%以下，
(A)疏水化處理金屬氧化物；
(B)非揮發性烴油或非揮發性矽油；
(C)二價的金屬鹽；
(D)戊二醇；
(E)水。
(A)疏水化處理金屬氧化物
(A)係散射或遮蔽紫外線者。(A)經疏水化處理，分散存在於油中水型乳化化妝料的油中。
作為(A)，可使用微粒子氧化鈦、微粒子氧化鋅、微粒子氧化鈰等的1種或2種以上，較佳係使用2種以上，更佳係含有微粒子氧化鈦和微粒子氧化鋅。
(A)從紫外線散射(遮蔽)性、分散性、使用性等角度出發，1次粒子的平均粒徑較佳為0.001μm以上0.1μm以下。作為(A)使用2種以上的粉體時，各粉體的平均粒徑可相同也可不同。
作為疏水化處理劑的種類並無限制，例如可列舉高級脂肪酸、高級醇、烴、甘油三酯、酯、矽油、矽酮樹脂、氟化物、醯基胺基酸等。例如，微粒子氧化鈦及微粒子氧化鋅的疏水化處理劑可列舉烷基三乙氧基矽烷、烷基三甲氧基矽烷、全氟烷基磷酸、(丙烯酸烷基酯/二甲基矽酮)共聚物、棕櫚酸糊精、三乙氧基矽基乙基聚二甲基矽氧乙基己基二甲聚矽氧烷、二甲聚矽氧烷、氫化二
甲聚矽氧烷、(丙烯醯二甲基牛磺酸鈉/甲基丙烯醯胺月桂酸)共聚物、醯基麩胺酸等。使用2種以上的粉體作為(A)時，各粉體可使用同一種疏水化處理劑，也可使用不同的疏水化處理劑。
疏水化處理的方法並無特別限定，可通過公知的方法進行表面處理。例如，可通過在辛基三乙氧基矽烷或二甲聚矽氧烷、氫化二甲聚矽氧烷中將微粒子金屬氧化物混合攪拌一定時間，並對其進行過濾，來製造經疏水化處理的微粒子金屬氧化物。
就(A)而言，通過將其預先與本發明的化妝料中調配的油劑混合後進行調配，作為油中水型乳化化妝料進行調製時可容易地實施向油相中的分散。
(A)作為事先分散至油劑中的物質可使用市售品，例如，作為市售的含有疏水化處理微粒子氧化鈦的原料，可例示將以氫化二甲聚矽氧烷、二甲聚矽氧烷、氫氧化鋁、含水二氧化矽進行疏水化處理的微粒子氧化鈦分散至環戊矽氧烷、三甲基矽氧基矽酸酯中而得的“FLT-01”(TAYCA股份有限公司)，或者將以氫化二甲聚矽氧烷、氫氧化鋁、二氧化矽進行疏水化處理的氧化鈦分散至生育酚、環戊矽氧烷、月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基矽氧乙基二甲聚矽氧烷中而得的“TD-57A-L”(鈦工業股份有限公司)。作為市售的含有疏水化處理微粒子氧化鋅的原料，可例示以三乙氧基辛基矽烷進行疏水化處理的微粒子氧化鋅分散至生育酚、環戊矽氧烷、聚甘油3-聚二甲基矽氧乙基二甲聚矽氧烷中而得的“DIF-5CS”(堺化學工業股份有限公司)。
(A)的調配量並無特別限制，可根據作為目標的SPF的程度等進行調整，例如，相對於油中水型乳化化妝料整體，(A)的調配量可設為5質量%以上40質量%以下。本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料即使調配大量的(A)，在塗布至
肌膚上時和沾水潤濕時均不易變白。因此，相對於本發明的化妝料整體，(A)的合計，從紫外線防禦的角度出發，較佳為10質量%以上，更佳為15質量%以上，又更佳為17質量%以上，再更佳為20質量%以上。另一方面，當調配過多的(A)時，有時塗布性等會降低，因此相對於本發明的化妝料整體，(A)的調配量，較佳為30質量%以下，更佳為25質量%以下。
(B)非揮發性烴油或非揮發性矽油
(B)為非揮發性的液狀油，形成油相。本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料，作為(B)，可含有非揮發性烴油和非揮發性矽油兩者。另外，在本發明中液狀油是指在1氣壓下25℃中為液體的油劑。此外，在本發明中，所謂非揮發性，是指閃點為100℃以上，且25℃下的動黏度為5cSt以上。
作為非揮發性烴油，例如可列舉25℃下具有動黏度超過5cSt的烴油，具體而言，可列舉氫化聚異丁烯、角鯊烷、角鯊烯、礦物質油、烯烴低聚物、氫化聚癸烯等，可使用該等中的1種或2種以上。
作為非揮發性矽油，例如可列舉25℃下具有動黏度超過5cSt的矽油，具體而言，可列舉二甲聚矽氧烷、苯基三甲聚矽氧烷、二苯基矽氧基苯基三甲聚矽氧烷、胺基改性矽酮等，可使用該等中的1種或2種以上。
其中較佳為氫化聚異丁烯、角鯊烷、二甲聚矽氧烷。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料中，相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量為7質量%以上。相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量較佳為8質量%以上，更佳為9質量%以上，又更佳為10質量%以上。(B)的調配量的上限只要可發揮本發明的效果即可，並無特別限定，例如較佳為40質量%以下，更佳為35質量%以下。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料在不損及本發明的效果的範圍內，可含有其他非揮發性油，相對於總非揮發性油，(B)的比率較佳為30質量%以上，更佳為50質量%以上，又更佳為70質量%以上，再更佳為90質量%以上，最佳為100質量%(不含其他非揮發性油)。
(C)、(D)、(E)
在本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料中，(C)二價的金屬鹽、(D)戊二醇及(E)水形成水相。
作為(C)，可列舉硫酸鎂、氯化鎂、碳酸鎂、硫酸鈣、氯化鈣、碳酸鈣等，較佳為硫酸鎂、氯化鎂、氯化鈣，更佳為硫酸鎂。
相對於本發明的化妝料整體，(C)的調配量較佳為0.01質量%以上2.0質量%以下。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料含有(D)戊二醇和(E)水作為必要成分。
相對於化妝料整體，(D)的調配量較佳為0.1質量%以上15質量%以下，更佳為0.5質量%以上，又更佳為0.8質量%以上，此外更佳為13質量%以下，又更佳為11質量%以下。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料在不損及本發明的效果的範圍內，也可含有其他水溶性多元醇，相對於總水溶性多元醇，(D)的比率較佳為30質量%以上，更佳為50質量%以上，又更佳為70質量%以上，再更佳為90質量%以上，最佳為100質量%(不含其他水溶性多元醇)。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料中，相對於化妝料整體，(E)的調配量為33質量%以下。相對於化妝料整體，(E)的調配量較佳為32質量%以下，更
佳為31質量%以下，又更佳為30質量%以下。(E)的調配量的下限並無特別限制，較佳為(D)、(E)及水溶性多元醇等任意的其他水性溶劑的合計，相對於化妝料整體達到15質量%以上的方式進行調配。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料即使沾水潤濕也不會變白。雖然本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料即使沾水潤濕也不會變白的詳細機制並不明確，但本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料，通過滿足上述的特定的組成，塗布且乾燥後形成緻密的膜，由於該膜在耐水性方面優異，因此推測即使沾水潤濕，疏水化處理金屬氧化物的排列也不易打亂，不易變白。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料在不損及本發明的效果的範圍內，可含有界面活性劑、粉體、油劑、高級脂肪酸、高級醇、矽酮類增稠劑、多元醇類、糖類、糖醇類、水溶性高分子、其他增稠劑、防腐劑、金屬離子封鎖劑、紫外線吸收劑、如透明質酸之保濕劑、香料、pH調整劑等。此外，可含有維生素類、皮膚活化劑、血液循環促進劑、固有菌控制劑、活性氧消除劑、抗發炎劑、美白劑、殺菌劑等其他藥效成分、生理活性成分。
作為界面活性劑，只要乳化型為油中水型即可，可使用任意物質，可調配非離子性界面活性劑、陰離子性界面活性劑、陽離子性界面活性劑、兩性界面活性劑等。
作為非離子性界面活性劑，可例示山梨糖醇酐油酸酯、山梨糖醇酐倍半異硬脂酸酯等山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯類、硬化蓖麻油衍生物、PEG-9二甲聚矽氧烷、PEG-9聚二甲基矽氧乙基二甲聚矽氧烷、月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基矽氧乙基二甲聚矽氧烷、聚甘油-3聚二甲基矽氧乙基二甲聚矽氧烷等矽酮系界面活性劑。
作為陰離子性界面活性劑，可例示月桂酸鈉等脂肪酸鹽、月桂基硫酸鈉等高
級烷基硫酸酯鹽、POE月桂基硫酸三乙醇胺等烷基醚硫酸酯鹽、N-醯基肌胺酸鹽、磺基琥珀酸鹽、N-醯基胺基酸鹽等。
作為陽離子性界面活性劑，可例示氯化硬脂基三甲基銨等烷基三甲基銨鹽、氯化苯銨、氯化苯索寧等。
作為兩性界面活性劑，可例示烷基甜菜鹼、醯胺甜菜鹼等甜菜鹼類界面活性劑等。
作為粉體，可例示顏料級氧化鈦、珠光顏料、氧化鐵、群青、氧化鉻、羥基磷灰石、二氧化矽、滑石、高嶺土、氮化硼、雲母、結晶纖維素粉體、蠶絲粉體、聚丙烯酸烷酯粉體、尼龍粉體、聚乙烯粉體、聚苯乙烯粉體等。此外，也可使用實施有矽酮處理或氟處理等的表面處理粉體。此外，也可使用多種不溶性粉體構成的複合粉體。不溶性粉體也可使用預先進行在矽油等中進行分散處理的市售分散體。
作為其他油劑，可列舉(B)以外的非揮發性油、揮發油。例如可列舉揮發性的矽油、揮發性的烴油、揮發性及非揮發性的酯油、非揮發性的油脂。
作為揮發性的矽油，可例示25℃下的動黏度低於5cSt的二甲聚矽氧烷、甲基三甲聚矽氧烷、辛基聚甲基矽氧烷、環己矽氧烷、環五矽氧烷、環四矽氧烷等。作為揮發性的烴油，可例示氫化(十四碳烯基/甲基十五烯)、異十六烷、十二烷、異十二烷等。
作為酯油，例如可例示2-乙基己酸鯨蠟酯、棕櫚酸乙基己酯、1，3-丁二醇二異壬酸酯、丙二醇二辛酸酯/二癸酸酯、二丙二醇二2-乙基己酸酯、異壬酸異壬酯、異壬酸異十三酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、新戊酸異硬脂酯、四乙基己酸新戊四醇酯等。
作為油脂，例如可例示三異硬脂酸甘油酯、2-乙基己酸三甘油酯、辛酸甘油三酯、山茶油、月見草油、澳洲堅果油、橄欖油、菜籽油、玉米油、芝麻油、胚芽油、小麥胚芽油等液體油脂。
作為高級脂肪酸，可例示月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、油酸、亞麻油酸、亞麻仁油酸、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)等。
作為高級醇，可例示月桂醇、硬脂醇、鯨蠟醇、鯨蠟硬脂醇等直鏈醇、單硬脂基甘油醚、羊毛脂醇、膽固醇、植物固醇、辛基十二烷醇等支鏈醇等。
作為矽酮系增稠劑，可例示部分交聯型有機聚矽氧烷、烷基改性部分交聯型有機聚矽氧烷、矽酮支鏈型烷基改性部分交聯型有機聚矽氧烷等。也可使用預先將部分交聯型有機聚矽氧烷、環五矽氧烷或二甲聚矽氧烷等油劑混合而成的凝膠混合物。
作為水溶性高分子，例如可例示阿拉伯膠、黃原膠、黃耆膠、半乳聚糖、瓜爾膠、卡拉膠、果膠、瓊脂、榅桲(PYRUS CYDONIA)籽提取物、葡聚醣、聚三葡萄糖、羧甲基澱粉、膠原蛋白、酪蛋白、明膠、甲基纖維素、羥丙基甲基纖維素、羥乙基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素鈉、海藻酸鈉、羧基乙烯聚合物等。
作為其他增稠劑，可例示山萮酸二十烷二酸甘油酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精異硬脂酸酯等。
作為防腐劑，可例示對羥基苯甲酸甲酯、對羥基苯甲酸乙酯等。
作為螯合劑，可例示乙二胺四乙酸二鈉、乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺四乙酸鈉鹽等乙二胺四乙酸鹽。
作為紫外線吸收劑，可例示對胺基苯甲酸、水楊酸苯酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸異
丙酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、2,4-二羥基二苯基酮等。
作為維生素類，可例示維生素A油、視黃醇等維生素A類、核黃素等維生素B2類、鹽酸吡哆醇等B6類、L-抗壞血酸、L-抗壞血酸磷酸酯、L-抗壞血酸單棕櫚酸酯、L-抗壞血酸二棕櫚酸酯、L-抗壞血酸-2-葡萄糖苷等維生素C類、泛酸鈣等泛酸類、維生素D3等維生素D類、α-生育酚、乙酸生育酚、煙酸DL-α-生育酚等維生素E類。
本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料可適用作為防曬霜、防曬乳液、防曬噴霧等防曬化妝料。此外，由於本發明的油中水型乳化化妝料的防紫外線效果高，因此也可製成附防紫外線功能的化妝基底或BB霜及乳液。
[實施例]
1.試驗品的調製
通過以下的調製方法調製表1、2的組成的油中水型乳化化妝料。
2.調製方法
在室溫下將油性成分混合，用高速攪拌機(3000rpm)混合10分鐘。
一邊向混合物中投入水溶性成分，一邊用高速攪拌機(3000rpm)進行混合，乳化1至2分鐘。用高速攪拌機(4500rpm)持續混合10分鐘後結束調製。
對調製的油中水型乳化化妝料實施下述評定。結果呈示於表1、2。
3.評定(泛白1、泛白2)
經由3名專業感官評定員之間的協商，藉由下述試驗法對表1、2的油中水型乳化化妝料進行評定。此外，要求報告關於使用感是否有特別的注意事項。
結果呈示於表1、2的下段。
<泛白1(塗布時的透明性)>
取20mg所得油中水型乳化化妝料於上腕內側部，以每1cm2達到2mg左右的方式塗開。然後通過下述標準對有無泛白進行目視評定。
(評定標準)
○：不泛白，有透明性
×：泛白，無透明性
<泛白2(沾水潤濕時的透明性)>
在人工皮革(SUPPLALE：出光Techno Fine製)上，將所得的油中水型乳化化妝料20mg在3cm×3cm的範圍內塗開並使其乾燥。然後，將潤濕的紙巾靜置於3cm×3cm的範圍的一半，使塗布部的一半浸水。3分鐘後取走紙巾，對浸水部和非浸水部進行比較，通過下述標準對有無泛白進行目視評定。
(評定標準)
○：不泛白，有透明性
×：泛白，無透明性
[表1]
[表2]
本發明的實施例中所得的油中水型乳化化妝料，在塗布於肌膚時不會泛白，在透明性方面優異，進一步，沾水潤濕時也不會變白可維持透明性。
相對於此，比較例中所得的油中水型乳化化妝料，在塗布於肌膚時不會泛白而為透明，但沾水潤濕時會泛白。
以下呈示配方例。
配方例1(防曬霜)
配方例2(防曬乳液)
配方例3(化妝基底)
Claims (3)
- 一種油中水型乳化化妝料，其係含有下述(A)至(E)，相對於化妝料整體，(B)的調配量為7質量%以上，且(E)的調配量為33質量%以下，(A)疏水化處理金屬氧化物；(B)非揮發性烴油或非揮發性矽油；(C)二價的金屬鹽；(D)戊二醇；(E)水。
- 如請求項1所述的油中水型乳化化妝料，其中，(B)為選自氫化聚異丁烯、角鯊烷、二甲聚矽氧烷中的1種以上。
- 如請求項1或2所述的油中水型乳化化妝料，其中，相對於化妝料整體，(D)的調配量為0.1質量%以上15質量%以下。
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