TW201343190A - Combinations of skin care ingredients apply to moisturizing and anti-wrinkle - Google Patents
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本發明係有關應用於保溼及除皺之皮敷保養組合成份。The invention relates to a skin care maintenance composition for applying moisturizing and wrinkle removal.
隨著年齡增長,人類皮膚老化,逐漸變得乾燥,並產生皺紋。近年,隨著空調的普及而使室內空氣更顯乾燥,以及室外空氣污染物的增加,皮膚乾燥和老化的程度更為明顯。為了解決這個問題,各式各樣的化妝品在市面上推出。As we age, human skin ages, becomes dry and wrinkles. In recent years, with the popularization of air conditioners, the indoor air is more dry, and the outdoor air pollutants are increased, and the degree of dryness and aging of the skin is more obvious. In order to solve this problem, a wide variety of cosmetics are introduced on the market.
玻尿酸是一種存在於真皮中的黏多醣類(mucopolysaccharide),並且發現於體液、牛的眼球、雞冠、動物組織中。皮膚中玻尿酸存在於細胞間的胞外基質中,表皮和真皮中均含有玻尿酸。真皮層較厚,細胞間的胞外空間大,含玻尿酸的量較多。Hyaluronic acid is a mucopolysaccharide found in the dermis and found in body fluids, bovine eyeballs, cockscombs, and animal tissues. Hyaluronic acid in the skin is present in the extracellular matrix between cells, and hyaluronic acid is contained in both the epidermis and the dermis. The dermis layer is thick, the extracellular space between cells is large, and the amount of hyaluronic acid is large.
玻尿酸具有極優越的持水能力,它可以吸收其本身重量一千倍的水,所以可以保持皮膚的濕潤,避免乾燥而產生皺紋。玻尿酸並具有成膜性,可以讓皮膚鎖水光滑。由於玻尿酸是人體皮膚既有的成份,所以親膚性極佳,不易有皮膚不適或過敏產生,廣泛的用在皮膚保養品中。Hyaluronic acid has excellent water-holding capacity, it can absorb a thousand times its own weight of water, so it can keep the skin moist, avoid drying and wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid has a film-forming property, which can make the skin lock water smooth. Because hyaluronic acid is a component of human skin, it is excellent in skin-friendly properties, and it is not easy to have skin discomfort or allergies. It is widely used in skin care products.
玻尿酸的生產技術主要分為兩大類,第一類為以動物組織為原料的萃取法,第二類為微生物發酵法。這兩種方法取得的玻尿酸,化學本質和分子結構是一致的,差異主要在相對分子量的差別。例如由雄雞冠萃取的玻尿酸,分子量在數百萬道爾頓,最高可高達六百萬道爾頓;微生物萃取的玻尿酸,則在數萬到三百萬道爾頓之間。由於玻尿酸分子過大,所以很難穿透皮膚表層,一般只停留在皮膚角質層外,發揮保濕的功能。The production technology of hyaluronic acid is mainly divided into two categories, the first one is the extraction method using animal tissue as raw material, and the second type is microbial fermentation method. The hyaluronic acid obtained by these two methods is consistent in chemical nature and molecular structure, and the difference is mainly in the difference in relative molecular weight. For example, hyaluronic acid extracted from the rooster crown has a molecular weight of several million Daltons up to six million Daltons; and microbial extracted hyaluronic acid is between tens of thousands and three million Daltons. Because the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large, it is difficult to penetrate the surface of the skin, and generally only stays outside the stratum corneum of the skin to exert a moisturizing function.
中華民國專利公開第201,043,259揭示一種包含玻尿酸的皮膚保溼之複合物及其製造方法,其功效是保濕,並沒有除皺功效。The Republic of China Patent Publication No. 201,043,259 discloses a skin moisturizing complex comprising hyaluronic acid and a method of producing the same, which has a moisturizing effect and has no wrinkle removing effect.
由於玻尿酸是皮膚固有的生物物質,外源性的玻尿酸是對皮膚內源性玻尿酸的補充。玻尿酸如果可滲入皮膚表皮層,將可補充及提高皮膚中玻尿酸含量,並能防止皮膚老化、淡化皺紋。Since hyaluronic acid is an intrinsic biological substance of the skin, exogenous hyaluronic acid is a supplement to the endogenous hyaluronic acid of the skin. If hyaluronic acid can penetrate into the epidermis of the skin, it will replenish and increase the hyaluronic acid content in the skin, and prevent skin aging and reduce wrinkles.
微脂體(Liposome)在藥物攜帶上的應用已有很長的歷史,但是應用在化妝品工業卻是最近十年才開始發展的。由於微脂體本身的分子膜與皮膚的分子結構極為類似,利用微脂體攜帶活性成分,可更有效的將所需的成分送至皮膚內層。Liposome has a long history of drug use, but its application in the cosmetics industry has only begun to develop in the last decade. Since the molecular structure of the liposome itself is very similar to the molecular structure of the skin, the use of the liposome to carry the active ingredient can more effectively deliver the desired ingredients to the inner layer of the skin.
本發明提供有關應用於保溼及除皺之皮敷保養組合成份。The present invention provides a skin care maintenance composition for application to moisturizing and wrinkle removal.
本發明提供一種皮膚保濕除皺用化妝品組合物,其中含有兩種型態的玻尿酸。第一種為非包覆型態的玻尿酸(Unenveloped Hyaluronic Acid),平均分子量由數千道爾頓(Daltons)到三百萬道爾頓間;第二種為微脂體包覆型態的玻尿酸(Liposome Enveloped Hyaluronic Acid)。非包覆型態玻尿酸鈉鹽分子量大,較難穿透皮膚,到達真皮層,所以在皮膚表層提供鎖水及保濕的功能。微脂體包覆型態的玻尿酸較易通過表皮,到達真皮層,可以達到淡化細紋的效果。The present invention provides a cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing and wrinkle which contains two types of hyaluronic acid. The first is unenveloped Hyaluronic Acid, with an average molecular weight ranging from several thousand Daltons to three million Daltons; the second is a liposome coated hyaluronic acid. (Liposome Enveloped Hyaluronic Acid). The non-coated type sodium hyaluronate has a large molecular weight and is difficult to penetrate the skin and reach the dermis layer, so it provides a function of locking water and moisturizing on the surface of the skin. The hyaluronic acid-coated hyaluronic acid can easily pass through the epidermis and reach the dermis layer, which can achieve the effect of reducing the fine lines.
結合玻尿酸鈉鹽於皮膚外層的保濕功能,和微脂體包覆型態的玻尿酸鈉鹽於真皮層提供的去除效果,可以達到皮膚保養品保濕和除皺的雙重功能。Combined with the moisturizing function of sodium hyaluronate in the outer layer of the skin, and the removal effect of the microcapsule-coated sodium hyaluronate salt on the dermis layer, it can achieve the dual functions of moisturizing and wrinkle-removing skin care products.
現在描述實驗例及實施例,實驗例及實施例只用於說明的目的,並非用來限制本發明範圍。The experimental examples and examples are now described, and the experimental examples and examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
實施例1,秤取純淨水加到1公升燒杯中,秤取適量的防腐劑加入水中,攪拌全溶,再秤取玻尿酸(平均分子量200萬道爾頓),攪拌全溶,外觀呈現透明澄清態。實施例2-4,改變玻尿酸比例,其餘程序同實驗例1。Example 1, weighing pure water into a 1 liter beaker, weighing an appropriate amount of preservative into the water, stirring and fully soluble, then weighing hyaluronic acid (average molecular weight 2 million Daltons), stirring fully dissolved, the appearance is transparent and clear state. Examples 2-4, the proportion of hyaluronic acid was changed, and the rest of the procedure was the same as in Experimental Example 1.
微脂體包覆型態的玻尿酸配製。Formulated with hyaluronic acid in a lipid-coated form.
實施例5,秤取大豆卵磷脂1.00克、0.03克維生素E醋酸酯、1.00克0.2wt%玻尿酸水溶液(平均分子量200萬道爾頓)置入20ml閃爍瓶中,加上磁石攪拌,封蓋,水浴維持70℃、2小時進行水合。使用探針式超音波(MISONIX,Sonicator 3000)震盪3分鐘。並以粒徑分析儀(Sanern)測粒徑,平均微脂體顆粒大小為105奈米。Example 5, weighing 1.00 g of soybean lecithin, 0.03 g of vitamin E acetate, 1.00 g of 0.2 wt% aqueous hyaluronic acid solution (average molecular weight of 2 million Daltons), placed in a 20 ml scintillation bottle, magnetized stirring, capping, The water bath was maintained at 70 ° C for 2 hours for hydration. Use a probe-type ultrasonic wave (MISONIX, Sonicator 3000) to oscillate for 3 minutes. The particle size was measured by a particle size analyzer (Sanern), and the average liposome particle size was 105 nm.
實施例6-8為改變玻尿酸水溶液比例進行微脂體包覆型態的玻尿酸配製,其餘參數和實施例5相同。Examples 6-8 were prepared by changing the ratio of aqueous hyaluronic acid solution to a hyaluronic acid-coated hyaluronic acid, and the remaining parameters were the same as in Example 5.
實施例9-16為冷作乳液的發明操作。Examples 9-16 are inventive operations of cold emulsions.
表3所示之組成,依下述方法調成乳液。並進行乳液對手部皮膚刺激性測試及臉部皮膚的效能測試。The composition shown in Table 3 was adjusted to an emulsion by the following method. The skin irritation test of the lotion on the hand and the performance test of the face skin were carried out.
室溫下,將成份(3)乳化劑,及成份(1)(2)(9)油類倒入乳化槽,攪拌均勻。加入成份(10)純淨水,乳化均勻。依續加入成份(4)(5)(6)(7)(8),開啟攪拌及乳化裝置,呈微黃白色乳液態,黏度8,100cps。Pour the component (3) emulsifier and the ingredients (1) (2) (9) oil into the emulsification tank at room temperature and mix well. Add the ingredients (10) pure water and emulsify evenly. Continue to add ingredients (4) (5) (6) (7) (8), open the stirring and emulsifying device, in a yellowish white emulsion state, viscosity 8,100 cps.
將表3之組成所調製之乳液,進行手部皮膚的刺激性試驗。選擇20名女性,年齡20至60歲,其中10位20-40歲,另10名為41-60歲,無皮膚過敏和皮膚疾病患者為受測者。取適量乳液填滿於Finn Chamber貼片上的小圓皿(直徑8mm;深度0.8mm)中,再將Finn Chamber貼片黏貼於上臂屈側皮膚,與皮膚直接接觸48小時後,觀察皮膚狀況結果:Finn Chamber貼片黏貼於上臂屈側皮膚,與皮膚直接接觸48小時後取下貼片並清洗皮膚,休息1、2、3小時。20位受測者皮膚均無任何紅、腫、癢等不適現象,且於整個過程中,受測者亦無任何不適感覺,顯示本配方皮膚保養品,無刺激性反應。The emulsion prepared by the composition of Table 3 was subjected to a irritating test of the skin of the hand. Twenty women were selected, aged 20 to 60 years, 10 of whom were 20-40 years old, and 10 were 41-60 years old. Patients without skin allergies and skin diseases were tested. Apply a proper amount of emulsion to a small round dish (8 mm in diameter; 0.8 mm in depth) on the Finn Chamber patch, and then attach the Finn Chamber patch to the flexor skin of the upper arm. After direct contact with the skin for 48 hours, observe the skin condition. The Finn Chamber patch is applied to the flexor side of the upper arm. After 48 hours of direct contact with the skin, the patch is removed and the skin is washed and rested for 1, 2, and 3 hours. None of the 20 subjects had any redness, swelling, itching and other discomforts, and the subject did not feel any discomfort during the whole process, showing that the skin care products of this formula had no irritating reaction.
將表3之組成所調製之乳液,進行皮膚的效能試驗。選擇20名女性,年齡20至60歲,其中10位20-40歲,另10名為41-60歲,無皮膚過敏和皮膚疾病患者為受測者。每日早晚,連續使用6週,於第0、1、2、3、4、5、6週時受測,受測者於受測前將臉部洗淨並於20±1℃、50±5%RH環境下休息30分鐘,再經由各項非侵入性的膚質檢測儀器進行皮膚的檢測分析,所得各項數據經統計分析,以評估檢品對於臉部皮膚的角質層含水量、經皮水分散失量、皺紋率、皮膚彈性、粗大毛孔數、皮膚粗糙度…等改善膚質的效能及其程度。The emulsion prepared by the composition of Table 3 was subjected to a skin efficacy test. Twenty women were selected, aged 20 to 60 years, 10 of whom were 20-40 years old, and 10 were 41-60 years old. Patients without skin allergies and skin diseases were tested. Daily morning and evening, continuous use for 6 weeks, measured at 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 weeks, the subject was washed before the test and at 20 ± 1 ° C, 50 ± Rest for 30 minutes in a 5% RH environment, and then perform skin analysis and analysis through various non-invasive skin test instruments. The obtained data were statistically analyzed to evaluate the water content of the stratum corneum of the test skin for the face. Skin water dispersion loss, wrinkle rate, skin elasticity, gross pores, skin roughness, etc. Improve the efficacy and extent of skin texture.
結果:表4及圖1為使用第2週、第4週、及第6週的結果。在使用2週以後,皮膚保濕性和除皺都有效果,使用6週後,角質層含水率提高10.1%;經皮水份散失率降低4.1%;皺紋率降低4.9%;皮膚彈性提高8.3%;粗大毛孔數減少4.5%;皮膚粗糙度降低6.7%。此結果顯示,使用非包覆型態的玻尿酸,加上微酯體包覆型態的玻尿酸為原料的皮膚保養品,可以達到皮膚保濕和除皺的效果。Results: Table 4 and Figure 1 show the results of the second week, the fourth week, and the sixth week. After 2 weeks of use, the skin moisturizing and wrinkle-reducing effect, after 6 weeks of use, the cuticle moisture content increased by 10.1%; transepidermal water loss rate decreased by 4.1%; wrinkle rate decreased by 4.9%; skin elasticity increased by 8.3% The number of enlarged pores was reduced by 4.5%; the skin roughness was reduced by 6.7%. This result shows that the skin moisturizing and wrinkle-removing effect can be achieved by using a non-coated hyaluronic acid and a micro-ester coated hyaluronic acid as a raw material for skin care products.
實施例10-18,配方如表5,操作方式如實施例9。室溫下,將成份(6)乳化劑,及成份(1)(2)(3)(4)(5)油類倒入乳化槽,攪拌均勻。加入成份(21)純淨水,乳化均勻。依續加入成份(7)~(20),攪拌及乳化均勻。Examples 10-18, the formulation is shown in Table 5, and the operation is as in Example 9. Pour the component (6) emulsifier and the ingredients (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) oil into the emulsification tank at room temperature, and mix well. Add the ingredients (21) pure water and emulsify evenly. The ingredients (7) to (20) are continuously added, and the mixture is stirred and emulsified uniformly.
實施例17-19為熱作乳液的發明操作,配方如表6。成份(1)~(5)油類及(6)(7)乳化劑,放入乳化槽,攪拌加溫,維持72-75℃;成份(21)純淨水加溫到72-75℃,打入乳化槽。乳化及攪拌均勻。降溫到40℃以下,依序加入成份(8)~(20),攪拌乳化均勻。Examples 17-19 are inventive operations of hot emulsions, and the formulations are shown in Table 6. Ingredients (1) to (5) oils and (6) (7) emulsifiers are placed in an emulsification tank, stirred and heated to maintain 72-75 ° C; ingredients (21) purified water is heated to 72-75 ° C, Into the emulsifying tank. Emulsify and stir evenly. Cool down to below 40 ° C, add ingredients (8) ~ (20) in sequence, stir and emulsifie evenly.
實施20為以玻尿酸為基質的凝膠,將成份(3)(4)(5)(11)(13)攪拌均勻,呈凝膠狀,即為發明之保濕及除皺之皮膚保養品組合成份。The method 20 is a hyaluronic acid-based gel, and the components (3)(4)(5)(11)(13) are uniformly stirred and gelatinized, which is the moisturizing and wrinkle-removing skin care product composition of the invention. .
實施例21及22為以三仙膠及羥乙基纖維素增稠的凝膠。成份(12)香精先以配方(1)混合呈均勻態。再加入配方(2),溶解均勻。接著加入(13)純淨水呈澄清液,並陸續加入配方(3)~(11),最後以高速攪拌機打成均勻凝膠態。Examples 21 and 22 are gels thickened with Sanxian gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose. The ingredients (12) are first mixed in a uniform state with the formula (1). Add the formula (2) and dissolve evenly. Then, (13) pure water is added as a clear liquid, and the formulas (3) to (11) are successively added, and finally, a uniform gel state is obtained by a high speed mixer.
實施例23-24為化妝水類的發明組合物。成份(10)香精先以成份(1)混合呈均勻態。再加入配方(2),溶解均勻。接著加入(11)純淨水,並陸續加入配方(3)~(9),攪拌均勻。Examples 23-24 are inventive compositions of lotions. Ingredient (10) essence is first mixed with component (1) in a uniform state. Add the formula (2) and dissolve evenly. Then add (11) purified water, and add formula (3) ~ (9) one after another, and mix well.
圖2,為本發明保溼及除皺之皮膚保養組合成份操作說明。根據本發明提供之組合物,可以達到皮膚保濕及除皺的效果。Fig. 2 is a view showing the operation of the moisturizing and wrinkle-removing skin care composition of the present invention. According to the composition provided by the present invention, the skin moisturizing and wrinkle removing effect can be achieved.
『圖1』,為本發明保溼及除皺之皮膚保養組合成份使用第2週、第4週、及第6週的皮膚膚質檢測結果"Fig. 1", the skin skin test results of the second, fourth, and sixth weeks of use of the moisturizing and wrinkle-removing skin care composition of the present invention
『圖2』,為本發明保溼及除皺之皮膚保養組合成份操作說明。"Fig. 2" is a description of the operation components of the skin care combination for moisturizing and wrinkle removal of the present invention.
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Cited By (3)
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WO2016135430A1 (en) * | 2015-02-27 | 2016-09-01 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique | Hyaluronic acid particles for cosmetic or dermatological uses |
US10111961B2 (en) | 2013-05-31 | 2018-10-30 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique | Self-associating microparticles and nanoparticles consisting of proteins |
US10172947B2 (en) | 2013-10-09 | 2019-01-08 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientififque (Cnrs) | Antiparasitic and/or antifungal composition comprising hydrophobised chitosan |
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Cited By (4)
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US10111961B2 (en) | 2013-05-31 | 2018-10-30 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique | Self-associating microparticles and nanoparticles consisting of proteins |
US10172947B2 (en) | 2013-10-09 | 2019-01-08 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientififque (Cnrs) | Antiparasitic and/or antifungal composition comprising hydrophobised chitosan |
WO2016135430A1 (en) * | 2015-02-27 | 2016-09-01 | Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique | Hyaluronic acid particles for cosmetic or dermatological uses |
FR3033134A1 (en) * | 2015-02-27 | 2016-09-02 | Centre Nat De La Rech Scient (Cnrs) | HYALURONIC ACID PARTICLES FOR COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL APPLICATIONS |
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