RU2299725C1 - Cosmetic agent for skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics, cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to agents used for skin care. Proposed cosmetic agent comprises protein hydrolyzate, Parabaena plant, perfume, water and hyaluronic acid of molecular mass 100000-1000000 Da wherein egg protein of molecular mass less 4000 Da is used as protein hydrolyzate, and wherein components are taken in the definite quantitative ratio. Also, proposed cosmetic agent comprises additionally at least one of aqueous extracts of aloe, ginseng, pot-marigold, linden, matricary, sage, lemon and/or grape. Proposed cosmetic agent used in skin care possesses hypoallergic property and absence of irritation effect, expressed moistening properties and prolonged effect that enhances smoothness and elasticity of skin and allows to control wrinkles effectively. Invention can be used as component of cosmetic masks, creams, gels, lotions and shampoos.

EFFECT: improved and valuable cosmetic properties of agent.

3 cl, 1 tbl, 7 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, namely to means for skin care, and can be used in cosmetic masks, creams, gels, lotions and shampoos.

Known cosmetic cleaning mask for skin care [Description of the invention to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2110985, IPC6 A61K 7/00, 7/48, publ. 05/20/1998, Bull. No. 10], the recipe of which, in addition to the base, mineral salts and biologically active substances of animal and vegetable origin, introduced native egg white. The inclusion of native egg protein in the cosmetic composition is based on the high sorption capacity of ovalbumin, the main quantitative component of egg protein that cleanses the skin of the face from metabolic products and low molecular weight substances that pollute the pores of the skin.

It should be noted that this is a one-time effect on the skin, as a result of which the skin is cleaned once - and so on until the next use of the mask.

Known cosmetic product for the skin, including the fractional component of the enzymatic hydrolyzate of egg white; having a molecular weight of from 100 to 10000 [Description of the invention to US patent No. 5460832, Ncl. 424/581, publ. 10.24.1995]. The above fractional component of the egg protein enzymatic hydrolyzate has hyaluronate synthase stimulating activity, an enzyme that catalyzes the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

From literature data it is known that peptides and amino acids - the main components of protein hydrolysates - are able to penetrate the skin and, interacting with the cellular structures of the stratum corneum, retain moisture in it (O. Ferzhtek, V. Ferzhtekova, D. Shramek, P. Stranski, Z Shediva, Cosmetology: Theory and Practice, Prague, Maxdorf, 2002). In addition, peptides create a protective layer on the epidermis and hair.

The disadvantages of protein hydrolyzate as a cosmetic product include the fact that the effect of their use does not appear immediately, but after a certain time, calculated in tens of hours.

The prior art it is known the use of hyaluronic acid in the composition of a cosmetic mask to retain moisture in the upper layers of the skin [Description of the invention to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2191000, IPC ⁷ A61K 7/48, 7/00, publ. 10/20/2002, Bull. No. 29]. At the same time, the intake of hyaluronic acid into the deeper layers of the skin is accompanied by its splitting under the action of hyaluronidase, which explains the insufficiently long-term effect of the use of a cosmetic mask.

Known means for washing the head and body [Description of the invention to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2007163, IPC5 A61K 7/50, publ. 02/15/1994, Bull. No. 3], including sulfoethoxylates, diethanolamides of fatty acids, derivatives of imidazoline or betaines, citric or phosphoric acid, formalin, sodium chloride, dye, perfume and water. In addition, a protein hydrolyzate is introduced into the composition of the product.

It should be noted that the increase in the water-retaining properties of the skin, the acceleration of the regeneration of its epidermal structures, and the improvement in hair combability observed with this product are not directly associated with protein hydrolyzate due to the multicomponent composition of the proposed product.

The problem solved by the invention is to create another cosmetic product for skin care.

The technical result will be to obtain a new cosmetic product for skin care, characterized by hypoallergenic properties and the absence of irritating effects, with pronounced moisturizing properties and prolonged action, which will increase the smoothness and elasticity of the skin and will effectively fight wrinkles.

To obtain the claimed technical result, the well-known cosmetic skin care product, including protein hydrolyzate, parabens, perfume and water, additionally contains hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100,000-1000000, while an egg protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight of less than 4000 s is used as a protein hydrolyzate. the following ratio of components, wt.%:

Egg white hydrolyzate 5.00-20.0 Hyaluronic acid 0.25-1.15 Parabens 0.25-0.35 Perfume 0.08-0.20 Water rest

Besides:

- cosmetic product further includes at least one of the following aqueous components, in their following ratio, wt.%:

Aloe extract 1.0-3.0 Ginseng extract 0.5-1.5 Calendula extract 1.0-3.0 Linden extract 1.0-3.0 Chamomile extract 1.0-3.0 Sage extract 1.0-3.0 Lemon extract 1.0-3.0 Enzymatic Grape Extract 1.0-3.0

- distilled or deionized water is used as water.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the composition of the cosmetic product simultaneously used hydrolyzed egg protein with a molecular weight of less than 4000, capable of stimulating hyaluronate synthase activity, and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100000-1000000, which has excellent moisturizing properties, which is described in detail in the article by Margolin A. A., Hernandez E.I., Senore J.-M. Cell therapy in cosmetology. M .: Publishing house "Cosmetics and Medicine", 1999. - p.168. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polyanionic linear polysaccharide that is part of the extracellular basic substance of the connective tissue of vertebrates in the form of a salt, and consists of alternating residues of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. The amino sugar in the molecule is connected to the D-glucuronic acid via a β- (1 → 4) bond, and the acid to the amino sugar is a β- (1 → 3) bond. In humans and animals, hyaluronic acid exists in the form of its sodium salt - sodium hyaluronate. The empirical formula is [(C ₁₄ H ₂₀ NO ₁₁ ) Na] _n , where n = 250-25000.

Hyaluronic acid has the highest hygroscopicity (the ability to bind water) compared to other moisturizing agents such as glycerol or sorbitol. One molecule of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid can bind up to 400 water molecules (Dois E. Quantitative problems of biochemistry: Transl. From English - M .: Mir, 1983. - p.376), maintaining the skin's water balance and ensuring its elasticity and elasticity. At the same time, hyaluronic acid as a natural biopolymer is characterized by a rapid metabolism: the half-life of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis is less than one day. Therefore, the moisturizing effect of the use of cosmetics containing it is not long-lasting.

As part of the claimed cosmetic product, a prolonged moisturizing effect is provided by an egg protein hydrolyzate, which has the ability to stimulate the synthesis of endogenous hyaluronic acid in the skin. Moreover, to reduce the allergic and irritating potential, the enzymatic hydrolyzate of egg protein is additionally subjected to membrane ultrafiltration, which allows to exclude a fraction with a molecular weight of more than 4000.

Thus, the presence of hyaluronic acid in the composition provides a relatively rapid manifestation of the moisturizing effect, and an egg protein hydrolyzate, which triggers the synthesis of endogenous hyaluronic acid by connective tissue cells - fibroblasts located mainly in the deep layers of the skin - the duration of the moisturizing effect. The use of the lower quantitative limits of the egg protein hydrolyzate and hyaluronic acid (less than 5 and 0.25%, respectively) leads to insufficient effectiveness of the drug, and the upper (more than 20 and 1.15%, respectively) - to their unreasonable cost overrun without enhancing the effect.

The use as a cosmetic product for skin care of a substance containing an egg protein hydrolyzate, hyaluronic acid, parabens, perfume and water is self-sufficient. Nevertheless, the additional introduction of plant extracts into the composition of the cosmetic product promotes the additional penetration of biologically active substances (extracts of aloe, ginseng, calendula, linden, chamomile and sage) and / or stabilizers of its tonality (enzymatic grape extract and lemon extract) into the skin.

Aloe extract is used as a strong bactericidal anti-inflammatory agent that promotes active stress relieving and has a nourishing effect on the skin.

Ginseng extract - a natural glycoside with an optimizing and nourishing effect - is used to enhance metabolism and stimulate tissue respiration, as well as for the treatment and prevention of certain skin diseases.

Calendula extract is used due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and wound healing effects.

Chamomile extract is used as an anti-inflammatory, analgesic and anti-allergic agent.

Sage extract has a calming effect, its use is known for sweating and dermatitis.

Lemon extract helps to reduce cholesterol in the skin, stabilizes its tonality, improves intracellular respiration and accelerates tissue regeneration, and grape extract, in addition, helps exfoliate dead skin cells.

The quantitative limits of plant components used in the composition of cosmetic products for skin care provide guaranteed obtaining the desired result. A smaller amount will not have the desired effect on aging skin, and the presence of a large amount, for example, ginseng, known for its adaptogenic properties, can provoke excessive excitation of the nervous system, etc. For this reason, for a cosmetic product that enters a wide distribution network, a certain effective amount of ingredients is used - their average values - and the extreme limits are applied as prescribed by specialists for cases where it is necessary to obtain a more pronounced or gentle effect.

An egg white hydrolyzate is obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis. At the same time, both native and denatured egg white can be used as the initial substrate.

As a proteolytic enzyme for hydrolysis of egg protein, any protease can be used, but preferably thiol proteases, such as papain, or serine proteases, such as trypsin.

The reaction may be performed at both room temperature and at higher temperatures - from 50 to 70 ^° C incubation duration varies depending on the kind and amount of the protease used. Hydrolysis continues until the pH of the incubation mixture is stabilized - will no longer shift to the acid side.

Insoluble substances formed during the reaction are removed by centrifugation or filtration. The resulting clear solution of the egg protein enzymatic hydrolyzate is fractionated. By ultrafiltration, a fraction having a molecular weight of more than 4000 is eliminated. Thus, a fraction with a molecular weight of less than 4000 is used for use in a cosmetic composition.

To obtain a low molecular weight fraction of egg protein hydrolyzate, a 100 ml volumetric flask is taken, 7 g of boiled denatured and then crushed egg protein are added to it and dissolved in 90 ml of water, after which the volume is adjusted to 100 ml by adding water. Using a 1.0 n (one-normal) sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution, the pH of the solution was adjusted to 7.0, after which papain was added to a final concentration of 0.06%. The mixture is incubated in a titrator at room temperature, slowly stirred on a magnetic stirrer for 20-24 hours. The reaction is stopped by boiling and the reaction mixture is filtered to remove suspended particles (insoluble compounds).

Next, the enzymatic hydrolyzate of egg protein is subjected to step ultrafiltration to remove high molecular weight substances with a molecular weight of more than 4000 and to isolate the optimal low molecular weight fraction with a mass of less than 4000, after which the isolated preparation is subjected to freeze drying.

Hyaluronic acid is obtained from the crests of chickens according to the traditional technology described in detail in the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2157381 of 03/01/1999 for the invention "Method for the production of hyaluronic acid", IPC ⁷ C08D 37/08, F61R 31/728, publ. 10/10/2000, Bull. No. 28.

A cosmetic skin care product is prepared as follows.

25 ml of a 7% solution of protein hydrolyzate in distilled water are poured into a 50 ml volumetric flask, 0.15 g of parabens (methyl paraben or ethyl paraben) and 0.05 g of perfume are dissolved in it, after which 0.5 g of dry hyaluronic acid is added, mixed and left to swell for 4 hours at room temperature. After that, the volume of the mixture was adjusted to the mark with the same 7% solution of egg white hydrolyzate with thorough stirring and left for another 6 hours at room temperature.

When plant ingredients are added to the product, the concentration of the protein component will decrease, for example, in the case of adding 1.5% aqueous extract of aloe, the concentration of the protein hydrolyzate will be (taking into account fragrance) 6.888%, and, for example, in the case of adding 1.5% water extracts of all eight of the claimed plant ingredients, the concentration of the protein hydrolyzate will be 6.153%. However, in practice, they operate with one or two plant components to enhance or achieve a specific effect, since a larger number of them can lead to the opposite result - to suppress or level the manifestation of the necessary properties.

To eliminate possible reactions from sensitive skin or its delicate areas, the preparation of cosmetics is carried out using distilled or even deionized water.

The use of the invention is illustrated in the following examples.

Example 1. Testing on volunteers.

A test was conducted in which 60 female volunteers aged 30 to 48 years old (average age 38.4 years) took part, complaining of dry, tired, wrinkled and / or aging skin. The test drug was applied twice a day (morning and evening) for one month.

The control group received deionized water.

Experimental group No. 1 received a preparation of the following composition (wt.%):

Egg protein hydrolyzate with predominant molecular weight 3500 7.0 Glycerol 1,0 Ethanol 0.5 Parabens 0.3 Perfume 0.1 Deionized water rest

Experimental group No. 2 received a preparation of the following composition (wt.%):

Egg protein hydrolyzate with predominant molecular weight 3500 7.0 Hyaluronic acid with predominant molecular weight 500,000 1,0 Parabens 0.3 Perfume 0.1 Deionized water rest

The result was evaluated by each member of the group by anonymous questioning according to the following parameters: anti-wrinkle effect, effect on skin elasticity and smoothness, and moisturizing effect. The results obtained are summarized in the Table.

As follows from the Table, the tested drugs had a significant (against control) effect on the tested parameters. Moreover, the best results were noted in the second experimental group, in which volunteers received a combination of an egg protein hydrolyzate with hyaluronic acid. Some effectiveness from the use of deionized water in the control group is explained by the placebo effect.

Example 2. Testing the duration of the drug.

At the first stage, candidates were selected for testing. It was attended by 40 female volunteers who complained of dry, tired, wrinkled and / or aging skin. The test drug was applied twice a day (morning and evening) for one month.

Experimental group No. 1 received a preparation of the following composition (wt.%)

Hyaluronic acid with predominant molecular weight 500,000 1,0 Parabens 0.3 Perfume 0.1 Deionized water rest

Experimental group No. 2 received a preparation of the following composition (wt.%)

Egg protein hydrolyzate with predominant molecular weight 3500 7.0 Hyaluronic acid with predominant molecular weight 500,000 1,0 Parabens 0.3 Perfume 0.1 Deionized water rest

In the second stage of the test - actually assessing the duration of the action of drugs - only those women participated (10 people in each group) who had a high efficiency of the drugs used. As shown by a visual inspection and the results of an anonymous questioning of test participants, the duration of the drug in the experimental group No. 1 averaged 3 weeks, while in group No. 2 it was 4-5 weeks. Thus, a combined preparation containing an egg protein hydrolyzate with hyaluronic acid showed a significantly longer duration of action compared with a preparation containing one hyaluronic acid.

Example 3. Testing the irritating effect of an egg protein hydrolyzate.

To assess the irritating effect of the drug, experiments were performed on 4 rabbits. For this, an egg protein hydrolyzate filtrate with a molecular weight of less than 4000, containing 7% of the active principle, was neutralized with a 1 N NaOH solution to pH 7.0 and was instilled into the right eye of each rabbit (the left served as a control) every day for 7 days. The absence of changes in the right eye (redness, swelling) after 2 weeks indicated the absence of an irritating effect.

Example 4. Testing the allergic and irritating potential of a preparation containing a combination of an egg white hydrolyzate with hyaluronic acid.

The test was conducted on 40 volunteers (23 women and 17 men) aged 26 to 56 years. Cosmetic product for skin care contained, wt.%:

Egg protein hydrolyzate with predominant molecular weight 3500 7.0 Hyaluronic acid with predominant Molecular weight 500,000 1,0 Parabens 0.3 Perfume 0.1 Deionized water rest

The agent was applied to a piece of tissue and applied to the skin of the inner surface of the forearm, after which it was fixed in this position. They did this every day for 2 weeks. The presence of an allergic reaction or irritating effect was judged by the appearance of redness, rashes, skin itching, and swelling.

The test results were evaluated as negative (no reaction), which indicates a low allergic and irritating potential of the test drug.

Consider the use of cosmetics for its intended purpose.

Example 5

Prepared a cosmetic skin care product containing the following ingredients, wt.%:

Egg protein hydrolyzate with predominant molecular weight 3500 7.0 Hyaluronic acid with predominant molecular weight 500,000 1,0 Parabens 0.3 Aloe extract 1,5 Perfume 0.1 Distilled water rest

Externally, the product is a gel-like mass of a pleasant appearance, color and smell, transmitting the smells of the plant extract and perfume included in its composition.

The gel was applied to the skin of the hands 2 times a day (morning and evening).

After applying the product for 5-7 days, there is a decrease in wrinkles, an increase in the smoothness and elasticity of the skin. The duration of the effect preservation was directly dependent on the user's age and ranged from two weeks to one month.

Example 6

The inventive cosmetic product can be used for application on the skin of the neck and chin. To do this, use the composition described in example 5, adjusted for the replacement of aloe extract with lemon extract, providing an additional whitening effect of aging skin.

Example 7

For facial skin care, it is advisable to use a cosmetic product, which includes ginseng extract, which enhances metabolic processes in the skin and enzymatic grape extract, which helps exfoliate dead skin cells. The use of such a cosmetic product makes the skin silky and supple. This is especially noticeable in early spring amid a lack of vitamins in the body.

It is possible to add the claimed cosmetic product to the composition of a variety of shampoos, where a small amount of it will help to improve the appearance of the hair.

Thus, as a result of solving the problem, a new cosmetic product for skin care was obtained, characterized by hypoallergenic properties and the absence of irritating effects, with pronounced moisturizing properties and prolonged action, which will increase the smoothness and elasticity of the skin and will allow you to effectively fight wrinkles.

Table Group of subjects Impact assessment Tested Parameters anti wrinkle effect resilience smoothness increase moisturizing effect Control group high efficiency 0 0 0 0 some efficiency 3 four 6 9 inefficiency 17 16 fourteen eleven Experimental group No. 1 high efficiency four 7 8 four some efficiency eleven 10 10 eleven inefficiency 5 3 2 5 Experimental group No. 2 high efficiency 6 9 10 10 some efficiency 12 10 9 10 inefficiency 2 one one 0

Claims (3)

1. A cosmetic skin care product comprising a protein hydrolyzate, parabens, perfume and water, characterized in that it further comprises hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100,000-1000000, while an egg white hydrolyzate with a molecular weight of less than 4000 is used as a protein hydrolyzate in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Egg White Hydrolyzate 5.0-20.0 Hyaluronic acid 0.25-1.15 Parabens 0.25-0.35 Perfume 0.08-0.20 Water Rest 2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that it further includes at least one of the following components, with a quantitative content in the tool, wt.%: Aloe extract 1.0-3.0 Ginseng extract 0.5-1.5 Calendula extract 1.0-3.0 Linden extract 1.3-3.0 Chamomile extract 1.3-3.0 Sage extract 1.3-3.0 Lemon extract 1.3-3.0 Enzymatic Grape Extract 1.0-3.0 3. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that distilled or deionized water is used as water.