RU2755201C1 - Skincare tonic - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: skincare tonic comprises, by wt.%: sodium hyaluronate - 0.01 to 2.5; palmityl tripeptide-1 - 0.01 to 0.15; acetyl hexapeptide-8 - 0.01 to 0.18; palmityl tetrapeptide-4 - 0.05 to 0.2; palmityl tetrapeptide-7 - 0.01 to 0.16; copper tripeptide-1 - 1.0 to 2.5; fructan - 1.2 to 1.8; raspberry ketone - 0.1 to 0.5, lotus flower extract-1.6-2.4; sheep polypore mushroom extract - 0.05 to 0.1; allantoin - 0.1 to 2.0; niacinamide - 0.1 to 1.0; sodium citrate - 1.4 to 2.2; citric acid - 1.2 to 2.0; lactobionic acid - 1.0 to 2.0; salicylic acid - 2.0 to 3.0; a preservative - 0.7 to 2.0; a filler - 2.5 to 4.5; water the rest.

EFFECT: invention provides an anti-aging effect in various areas of the skin.

4 cl, 3 tbl, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology and is a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin of the face, as well as the neck, décolleté, intended for cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing the skin, including problem skin, for example, dehydrated skin that has lost its elasticity and elasticity, has become flabby, prone to the appearance of acne, as well as to eliminate wrinkles, peeling, unwanted pigmentation, that is, to rejuvenate the skin as a whole. The claimed composition for skin care has the trade name TONIC "PORE CLEAR SOLUTION TONER" and is produced under the trade mark (trade mark) "NANOASIA".

Known cosmetic product for skin care, including a protein hydrolyzate, parabens, fragrance and water, it additionally contains hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100,000-1000000, while as a protein hydrolyzate use egg protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight of less than 4000 with the following ratio of components, wt. %:

Egg White Hydrolyzate 5.0-20.0 Hyaluronic acid 0.25-1.15 Parabens 0.25-0.35 Perfume 0.08-0.20 Water Rest

In addition, the tool additionally includes at least one of the following components, with a quantitative content in the tool, wt. %:

Aloe extract 1.0-3.0 Ginseng extract 0.5-1.5 Calendula extract 1.0-3.0 Linden extract 1.3-3.0 Chamomile extract 1.3-3.0 Sage extract 1.3-3.0 Lemon extract 1.3-3.0 Enzymatic grape extract 1.0-3.0

Distilled or deionized water is used as water ( RU 2299725)

A known composition for the care of the skin of the face and eyelids, containing the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, Aloe Vera and water, it additionally contains polyvinylpyrrolidone in the following ratio of components, wt%:

Hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0.01-2.5

Aloe Vera gel or juice 0.1-10.0

Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.01-2.0

Water Up to 100.0

The composition additionally contains a thickener, alkali metal salts, collagen hydrolyzate or collagen, elastin, sulfur preparations, sunscreens, vitamins A, C and E in the form of their water-soluble or fat-soluble forms and preservatives ( RU 2218907).

Known tonic for tired skin, containing moisturizing additives, denatured alcohol, emulsifier, surfactants, preservatives, perfume and water, it contains a neuromodulator - serotonin adipate and / or mexamine, a percutaneous conductor-eftiderm, an antioxidant - dihydroquercitin, tocopherol acetates and the following the ratio of the components, wt. %:

Cosmetic stearin 0.10-0.50 Distilled monoglycerides 1.00-1.50 Lanolin 0.10-0.15 Pentaerythritol laurate 0.20-1.00 Synthetic alcohols 0.20-0.40 Tocopherol acetate 0.01-0.015 Retinol acetate 0.01-0.015 Serotonin adipate and / or mexamine 0.001-0.01 Eftiderm 0.10-0.15 Dihydroquercetin 0.01-0.015 Urea 0.10-0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10-0.25 Ethanol 3.00-5.00 Perfume composition 0.20-0.40 Distilled water rest

(RU 208128288)

Known cosmetic composition for skin care, consisting of colloidal nanogold, dimethylaminoethanol, colloidal nanosilver, ergothioneine, arginine and components from the group: ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, dimethicone, olive squalene, apricot Canosa oil, fruit oil from Rosa , cetyl palmitate, tretylhexanoin, phytosterols, macadamia nut oil, cholesteryl stearate, dimethicone / vinyl demiticone crosspolymer, avocado oil; and / or ultraviolet filters from the group: ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, cetylethylhexanoate, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyltriazone; and / or humectants from the group: glycerin, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, sodium hyaluronate, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, DNA sodium salt, Morus alba root extract, Paeonia Albiflora root extract, Aloe Ferox leaf extract, Angusopolisaxolia root extract, exophora Pseudoalteromonas, Pseudoalteromonas enzyme extract; and / or emulsifiers from the group: sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate; and / or co-emulsifiers selected from the group: stearoxy-hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydrogenated lecithin; and / or structuring agents from the group: behenyl alcohol, xanthan gum, hetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol; and / or preservatives from the group: methylparaben, propylparaben; and / or an enhancer that is sodium dextran sulfate; and / or antioxidants from the group: tocopherol acetate, tiataine; and / or an acidity regulator, which is citric acid; and / or anti-aging components from the group:

ascorbyltetraisopalmitate, acetylhexapeptide -37, tripeptide-10, citrulline, tripeptide-1; and / or gelling agents from the group: pectin, carbomer; and / or regenerating components from the group: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate; and / or a complexing agent, which is a tetrasodium salt of EDTA; and / or active substance, which is an extract of olive leaves; and / or a prebiotic that is inulin; and / or solvents selected from at least one of the group: water, 1,3-butylene glycol (RU 2622020, prototype).

The disadvantages of the known means are insufficient efficiency of use and narrowness of functionality, i.e. limited range of their healing and restorative action. In particular, an excess of dead cells of the stratum corneum accumulates on the surface of the skin, the penetration of peptides and other substances necessary for the skin into the pores is difficult, there is a significantly unequal efficiency in different areas of the skin. If normal skin exfoliation does not occur, the skin may become rough, thinner, dull, and more wrinkled. Known remedies are not able to fully regularly remove the "enlarged" stratum corneum of the skin, so that a healthier layer - a young one - can appear. The rate of skin cell renewal is very individual and depends on age. When a person is young, this process happens very quickly - in children, about once a week. As a person grows up, the rate of skin renewal changes - in adolescents from 14 to 20 years old, the process of skin renewal occurs every 3 weeks, and then gradually slows down. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as various hormonal conditions of the body, reduce the ability of skin cells to renew. Horny scales do not fall off in even layers and not at the same time, thereby creating a roughness of the skin surface, making it dull, the skin acquires an unhealthy shade. Since the known solutions provide for exfoliation (peels) - mechanical (scrubbing) and chemical (the skin is exposed to aggressive acids of high concentration), known peels can be used 1-2 times a week for no more than 10 procedures in a row. The frequency and number of treatments depends on the type and skin problems of a particular client. After such peels, a rather long recovery period is required. the skin is severely damaged from such an aggressive effect.

The technical problem solved by the present invention is to provide a composition that is comfortable to use, providing a versatile effect of the agent on the skin to increase the effectiveness of use and expand the arsenal of skin care products.

The technical result obtained when using the present invention is to expand the functionality, high biological effectiveness of the healing, in particular, anti-aging effect of the tonic in various areas of the skin of the face, in particular, the neck, décolleté. The biostimulating effect of the agent is that it restores the damaged protective barrier of the skin, stimulates capillary blood flow and regulates the work of the sebaceous glands, cleanses and narrows the pores; provides hydration, stimulates regeneration and rejuvenation, refreshes and evens out the complexion, acts against rosacea and rosacea, in particular, prevents the appearance of spider veins, blackheads, pigmentation, rashes, acne, redness of the skin; stimulates the production of collagen and increases skin elasticity (strengthens skin turgor), thereby smoothes wrinkles and prevents the formation of new wrinkles, removes edema; prevents photoaging and softens the skin after sunburn, relieves muscle spasm; fights inflammation , heals, removes redness, improves skin immunity; relieves age spots and freckles, cleanses, whitens the skin, inhibiting the synthesis of melanin; softens and tones, gives the skin a fresh look, leaving the skin supple, smooth and radiant. In general, the tonic restores the functions of damaged fibroblasts, triggers and maintains collagen synthesis, stimulates intradermal recovery, ensures the resorption and reorganization of skin scars, activates dormant stem cells, has a retinol-like effect, antioxidant effect, reduces the inflammatory potential and traumatism of external stress effects.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that a tonic (cosmetic composition) for skin care contains sodium hyaluronate, a group of peptides and extracts of plant raw materials, as well as a polysaccharide, a flavoring agent, citric acid, a cosmetically acceptable filler, a preservative and water, it contains palmityl as peptides tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmityl tetrapeptide-4, palmityl tetrapeptide-7 and copper tripeptide-1; as extracts of plant raw materials, extracts of lotus flowers and tinder fungus and allantoin; as a polysaccharide - fructan, and as a flavoring agent - raspberry ketone, and additionally contains niacinamide, sodium citrate, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, with the following content of components (in wt%):

sodium hyaluronate 0.01 - 2.5;

palmityl tripeptide-1 0.01-0.15;

acetyl hexapeptide - 8 0.01 - 0.18;

palmityl tetrapeptide-4 0.05 - 0.2;

palmityl tetrapeptide-7 0.01-0.16;

tripeptide copper-1 1.0 - 2.5;

fructan 1.2 - 1.8;

raspberry ketone 0.1-0.5,

lotus flower extract 1.6 - 2.4;

ovine tinder fungus extract 0.05 - 0.1;

allantoin 0.1 - 2.0;

niacinamide 0.1 - 1.0;

sodium citrate 1.4-2.2;

citric acid 1.2-2.0;

lactobionic acid 1.0 - 2.0;

salicylic acid 2.0-3.0;

preservative 0.7 - 2.0;

filler 2.5 - 4.5;

water - the rest (up to 100%).

Preferably, the tonic contains water-soluble peppermint oil as a filler.

Preferably, as a preservative, the tonic contains a component from the group: butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin.

Preferably, the tonic is made with an acidity pH = (5.3 ~ 6.3).

The tonic according to the present invention is made, for example, as follows.

For the manufacture of the product, the following components are weighed: sodium hyaluronate, a group of peptides and extracts of plant raw materials, as well as a polysaccharide, a flavoring agent, citric acid, a cosmetically acceptable filler and a preservative, while the composition is introduced as peptides palmityl tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitil tetrapeptide-4, palmityl tetrapeptide-7 and copper-1 tripeptide; as herbal extracts: extracts of lotus flowers and sheep tinder fungus and allantoin ; as a polysaccharide - fructan, and as a flavoring - raspberry ketone, and additionally contains niacinamide, sodium citrate, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid in the above amounts and water.

First, mix the water and the components of the aqueous phase. Then the fat phase is heated in them to 80 ° C with water-soluble additives up to 90 ° C. With stirring, add the hot fat phase to the hot aqueous phase, mix and include in a water jacketed mixer-homogenizer. Homogenize for 10 minutes and put the apparatus on cooling. At 40 ° C add the remaining active ingredients and preservative, mix. The resulting mass is checked for pH, given for control and packaged.

Thus, a tonic (cosmetic composition) for skin care is produced by mechanical mixing to obtain an emulsion of water with a preservative, a filler, as well as dry and liquid components: niacinamide; fructan; raspberry ketone, albatrellus mushroom extract - sheep tinder fungus; allantoin (extract of medicinal comfrey roots); sodium citrate; sodium hyaluronate; lotus flower extract; lemon acid; lactobionic acid; salicylic acid; preservative (from the group: butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin); filler (water-soluble peppermint oil), water. Peptides palmityl tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmityl tetrapeptide-4, palmityl tetrapeptide-7 and copper-1 tripeptide; are introduced last in the cooled emulsion.

The specific content of the components of the composition is selected within the specified limits from the condition of obtaining an agent with acidity pH = (5.3 ~ 6.3) and the formation of a liquid eutectic mixture, in which the liquid phase is in equilibrium with solid phases at the temperature of the human skin, and complete solubility in mixtures of biologically active substances used.

An extract of plant raw materials from the group: tea tree, manuka, rosemary, lavender, thyme, clove, sage or witch hazel can also be added to the composition as a preservative.

These components are finally mixed under aseptic conditions in a disperser to a uniform consistency.

The mixing process is carried out until a homogeneous liquid consistency is obtained, after which the resulting tonic is transferred for control in accordance with GOST 31460-2012 and is packaged in prepared environmentally friendly packaging or in glass containers and pasteurized.

The finished tonic is obtained with the following organoleptic characteristics:

- consistency: liquid, homogeneous, not viscous, well absorbed;

- color: colorless, transparent;

- aroma: weak, no aroma release from individual ingredients.

The selection and combination of tonic components provides an effective synergistic effect, carried out due to the content of complex complexes of the above biologically active substances, which do not suppress each other's action, but have a combined multi-level effect, since the substances contained in them are in the most appropriate combination and mutually reinforce each other , providing an increase in the effectiveness of action as a result of combination, integration, merging into a single complex, due to the so-called systemic effect.

Cosmetic composition (tonic) is used as follows.

Distribute the tonic on the face along the massage lines using a cotton pad moistened with the tonic, or apply the tonic directly to the face without a cotton pad, spraying it onto the skin with a dispenser (3-4 clicks are enough) and spread with your fingers.

Apply the tonic in the morning, covering the top with a cosmetic product with SPF protection level of at least 20+, and also in the evening before applying the night cream.

You can also use the tonic on its own at night as well.

For best results, use for at least 28 days.

When using the claimed composition of tonic components, a synergistic effect is realized based on the following properties of its components.

Niacinamide - niacinamide (vitamin B3), stimulates skin renewal, works against pigmentation, tightens pores, moisturizes and evens skin color, antioxidant, relieves swelling.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 - Palmityl tripeptide - 1 is a peptide of three amino acids (the building blocks of all proteins) with the amino acid sequence glycine-histidine-lysine. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is able to stimulate collagen production in the skin, and the more collagen, the less wrinkles, the skin looks younger. - rejuvenation, increased elasticity. Protection against photoaging, acceleration of regeneration, increased skin elasticity, synthesis of skin matrix proteins.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Acetyl Hexapeptide - 8 . is a unique peptide consisting of three amino acids: glutamic, methionic and arginic acids, has an anti-expression wrinkle effect (argireline) and a moisturizing / conditioning action. Relieves muscle spasm - gives the effect of Babyface ("Babyface") - a face with soft features, reminiscent of a child.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 - Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 stimulates the synthesis of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagen (in particular types I, III and IV), promotes wound healing. The structure of KTTKS is associated with the precursor of type I collagen (or type I procollagen) - the synthesis of the skin matrix, collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 - Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 anti-inflammatory peptide, enhances skin immunity. Regulator of the ratio of pro- and anti-inflammatory cytokines (immunomodulators). Reduces the production of the anti-inflammatory mediator interleukin-6 by basal keratinocytes. It is used for the care of skin with acne.

Cooper Tripeptide-1 - Copper tripeptide consists of three amino acids: lysine, glycine, histidine, combined into one molecule in a complex with copper. This substance is released in the event of any tissue damage and accelerates healing, fights inflammation, and evens out skin tone. Copper tripeptide has beneficial effects on various types of wounds, including surgical, post-laser, ischemic wounds, burns, skin and hair transplants, and diabetic ulcers. Diabetic lesions heal three times faster in the presence of copper tripeptide. The time for re-epithelialization of the skin is also reduced. Copper tripeptide is active not only in primary healing, but also in tissue restructuring - restoring its normal original structure and functioning. It accelerates the growth of keratinocytes and enhances the synthesis of normal collagen, plumps the skin, improves its elasticity and firmness, reduces wrinkles, photodamage and uneven pigmentation, cleanses the skin and tightens the skin's protective barrier. With the help of decorin, new collagen formed in damaged tissues acquires the correct anatomical shape and structure, thus preventing the appearance of scars. As the normal tissue structure is restored after damage, the extracellular matrix of the dermis, including collagen I and III and glucosaminoglycans, grows in the presence of copper tripeptide. Scarring processes are minimized and collagen synthesis is increased through direct action on fibroblasts. It protects DNA from radiation damage, including cancer radiation therapy and sun exposure. Although radiation severely damages DNA and promotes aging, in the presence of copper tripeptide, fibroblasts can fully restore their functions. Copper tripeptide has a powerful antitumor effect. Tumor cells die, and healthy cells are synthesized in the presence of copper tripeptide. Copper tripeptide prevents aging of stem cells, ensures the viability of stem cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. Reduces the risk of infection in a wound or tissue. This is partly facilitated by the inhibition of ferritin ions, which is a prooxidant. Plays an important therapeutic role in age-related neurodegeneration and cognitive decline. It promotes neurite survival and protects nerve cells, reduces wrinkles, skin roughness, sagging skin, pigmentation and other skin problems associated with aging, greatly improves skin appearance, increases skin elasticity and thickness, and maintains a healthy appearance. Copper tripeptide causes the destruction of "extra-large" collagen compounds found, for example, in scars, and promotes the synthesis of more regular fibers characteristic of normal skin. It also provides the synthesis of elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglucans and other components of the skin matrix.

Fructan is a fructan. Fructan is a polymer of fructose. Each fructan molecule consists of many β-D-fructose molecules and one α-D-glucose molecule bound to fructose through its hemiacetal hydroxyl. Provides hydration and anti-inflammatory effect.

Raspberry Ketone - Raspberry Ketone is a natural phenolic compound that is the main component of raspberry berry aroma, found in its essential oil. The chemical structure of the ketone is similar to the zingerone extracted from ginger (which helps to reduce obesity), as well as capsaicin - a substance found in chili peppers, which also has fat burning properties, and synephrine - a substance found in orange peel - improving skin properties, evening out complexion, protective barrier, removes swelling.

Albatrellus Ovinus Extract - Sheep tinder fungus extract ( Albatrellus ) heals, removes redness, anti-inflammatory agent.

Citric Acid - citric acid - regulates acidity, tightens pores, refreshes complexion, leaving skin smooth and radiant, breaks down protein molecules between dead and living cells. Exfoliates the skin by removing dead cells, thereby promoting cell renewal.

Allantoin - Allantoin. extracted from the roots of medicinal comfrey. When applied to the skin, cells are regenerated and tissues are healed. A light moisturizing and softening effect is also noticeable. This component also serves for the rapid healing of various wounds and burns; it has an anti-inflammatory effect, accelerates regeneration, and works against clogged pores. Allantoin reduces the effect of free radicals on the cell membrane, thus prolonging the life of the cell.

Sodium Citrate - Sodium citrate - acidity stabilizer.

Sodium Hyaluronate - Sodium hyaluronate - sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycan - humectant.

Nelumbo Nucitera Flower Extract - lotus flower extract , promotes rejuvenation, hydration, cleansing, anti-inflammatory properties, accelerates healing, whitening and firming of the skin, gives a distinctive, warm, sweet-herbal aroma. The action is aimed, in particular, at obtaining the following properties.

Lotus extract has a biostimulating effect, strengthens skin turgor, makes it elastic, smoothes wrinkles, tightens skin pores, has a strong astringent effect, fights acne, eliminates itching, relieves skin inflammation due to the high content of vitamin C, stimulates skin cell regeneration, heals acne damaged skin, soothes sensitive skin, softens it after sunburn, eliminates age spots and freckles, cleanses, whitens the skin, inhibiting melanin synthesis.

Lactobionic Acid - lactobionic acid provides hydration, at the same time easily exfoliates the skin, accelerating cell regeneration. It has a positive effect on the dermal matrix, gives deep nourishment, fights against photoaging, helps to remove pigment.

Salicylic Acid - antiseptic, reduces inflammation and exfoliates. Cleans pores, regulates the sebaceous glands.

As you can see from the list of the main components, one of the features of the Nanoasia tonic is that it contains three acids that exfoliate the skin at the same time:

alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) - citric acid (Citric Acid);

polyhydroxy acid (PHA) - lactobionic acid (Lactobionic Acid);

beta hydroxy acid (BHA) - salicylic acid (Salicylic Acid).

These acids have excellent exfoliating properties, their main task is exfoliation - the removal of dead skin cells and stimulation of cell renewal.

If normal skin exfoliation does not occur, the skin may become rough, thinner, dull, and more wrinkled. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly remove the "enlarged" stratum corneum of the skin so that a healthier layer - a young one - can appear.

The rate of skin cell renewal is very individual and depends on age. When a person is young, this process happens very quickly - in children, about once a week. As a person grows up, the rate of skin renewal changes - in adolescents from 14 to 20 years old, the process of skin renewal occurs every 3 weeks, and then slows down. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as various hormonal conditions of the body, reduce the ability of skin cells to renew. Horny scales do not fall off in even layers and not at the same time, thereby creating a roughness of the skin surface, making it dull, the skin acquires an unhealthy shade.

Therefore, helping the scales of the stratum corneum of the skin to separate completely and to do it so that the remaining layer is even, without causing injury or damage to the skin, is the main task of proper exfoliation. AHA-, PHA- and BHA-acids provide just such correct exfoliation without damage and inconvenience.

AHA and PHA acids are water soluble. BHA acids are fat-soluble. Due to this, AHA and PHA acids act on the skin surface, removing hyperpigmentation and freckles. On the contrary, BHA acids easily penetrate deep into the skin, exerting an effect on it at the cellular level. These components complement each other perfectly.

AHA and PHA acids are essential for those with sensitive and dry skin. The acids of the АНА-and РНА-groups do not penetrate deeply into the pores, therefore they do not cause dehydration and irritation. AHA and PHA work by reacting on the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the binding properties of fats (lipids) that hold dead skin cells together. This allows the outer skin to "dissolve", revealing the underlying skin. Exfoliants begin the production of new skin cells. AHA and PHA also reduce the appearance of wrinkles, roughness and age-related pigmentation, and can also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, thereby inhibiting the process of photoaging.

BHA acids are ideal for skin prone to acne and acne, because BHA acids, unlike AHA and PHA acids, penetrate deeply into pores and cleanse them from the inside. BHA acids also help to tighten pores and have an antiseptic and soothing effect on the skin, and are one of the most effective anti-rosacea agents.

The most important of the features of the tonic Nanoasia is that with the simultaneous presence of AHA-, PHA- and BHA-acids in it, the action of which is aimed at solving several opposite problems, the concentration of these acids in the tonic is selected in such a way that all these acids supplement and enhance the effectiveness of each other's action, and in combination with other ingredients at the correct pH concentration in the toner (5.3 ~ 6.3) worked simultaneously with different skin problems, showing the effectiveness, which is required for a particular skin, without damaging it.

Thus, the toner can be used on a permanent basis for all skin types - for oily and dry, and for those prone to acne, pigmentation, rosacea, etc. At the same time, the mild exfoliating effect of Nanoasia tonic, in contrast to aggressive chemical peels does not require any recovery period after application. And since the tonic can be applied daily, the regular exfoliation process due to its properties prevents the accumulation of excess dead cells on the surface of the skin. Due to the active removal of dead cells, the penetration of biologically active substances into the deep layers of the skin, which comes from the use of cosmetics, improves. The skin becomes smooth, even and uniform.

Another feature of Nanoasia tonic is that it contains 5 indicated peptides: palmityl tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmityl tetrapeptide-4, palmityl tetrapeptide-7 and copper tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, AcetylHexapeptide-8 , PalmitoylPentapeptide-4, PalmitoylTetrapeptide-7, Cooper Tripeptide-1).

Peptides are protein molecules made up of amino acids. They build and organize internal processes: they "recognize" everything that happens to the epidermis, and give appropriate commands to improve its condition, determine and maintain the required rate of stem cell division, help new cells start functioning correctly and increase the activity of already mature cells. The main tasks of peptides are to activate the ability of skin cells to repair and regenerate, enhance the synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosamine glycans, neutralize free radicals, regulate the immune response of the skin and affect inflammatory processes.

Peptides have the ability to quickly and deeply penetrate into the pores of the skin and are completely safe. To deliver peptides to the body, no injections are needed; they are able to penetrate the horny barrier of the dermis in the composition of cosmetics and perform their functions.

However, the penetration of one or another peptide into the skin is controlled by a large number of factors: the size of their molecules, the state of the stratum corneum, the polarity of the molecules, etc. Peptides only work if they have been able to penetrate deeper into the epidermis and not remain on the surface of the skin. At the same time, the molecules of most peptides are too large for free penetration deep into the dermis, and in addition, peptides are attracted to water, while the skin is covered with fat. If an excess of dead cells of the stratum corneum accumulates on the surface of the skin, the penetration of peptides and other substances necessary for the skin into the pores is very difficult. Therefore, products with peptides must have a special formula that will ensure their delivery to the skin. This task is solved with the help of the composition of the components of the Nanoasia tonic.

Also, the most important feature of the Nanoasia tonic is that in addition to the presence in it simultaneously of AHA-, PHA- and BHA-acids, as well as peptides, the size of the peptides is quite small (smaller than the pores of the skin), and their concentration, as well as the concentration of acids in tonic is such that strong bonds are created between peptides and acids, which allow peptides to penetrate deep into the dermis together with acids, while the acids themselves provide unhindered penetration of peptides inside, quickly and effectively "clearing" the stratum corneum of the skin from fat and impurities, removing excess dead cells. Simultaneously with peptides, other components of the tonic can easily penetrate into the pores cleaned with acids.

Thanks to the above-described features, Nanoasia tonic in 28 - 36 days of use brings the skin to an ideal state, since its use provides not only exfoliation (exfoliation), deep cleansing of pores and nutrition of the skin with biologically active substances, but also the penetration deep into the skin of peptides, which are building material for cells, and their correct synthesis allows you to maintain the density and elasticity of tissues, which is the basis of beauty and youthfulness of the skin.

In general, the solution of this problem and the achievement of the technical result is based on the optimal qualitative selection, harmonious combination and quantitative ratio of components that have the ability to complement and enhance each other's action, i.e. in the specified empirically determined (taking into account the accumulated pharmaceutical information) combination and content of the components show a high tendency towards the formation of a stable mixed complex of ingredients inherent in the components of the cosmetic tonic composition.

The composition of the tonic components generally has a combined multilevel effect. The main active ingredients of the components are not synthesized independently in the human body or are synthesized in insufficient or unbalanced quantities. The composition of the components of the tonic in qualitative and quantitative terms does not allow either an excess or a lack of individual substances that have an extensive effect on the skin and on the chemical reactions taking place in it, excludes the appearance of signs of phytotoxicity.

As a result of the use of the present invention, high efficiency and expansion of the functionality of the agent (tonic) is provided, which allows for a powerful biostimulating effect and high efficiency of application of the agent in various areas of the skin of the face, in particular, the neck, décolleté, since the synthesis of proteins of the skin matrix elastin is stimulated, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagen, while peptides can penetrate deeper into the epidermis without remaining on the skin surface. In this case, there is a stimulation of capillary blood flow, which leads to at least partial reversibility of degenerative processes in tissues.

At the same time, the synthesis of the enzyme superoxide dismutase is stimulated, the breakdown of pathological too large collagen in the scar tissue is accelerated and at the same time the production of new "good" collagen is activated, protein molecules are destroyed between dead and living cells, creating conditions for the renewal and removal of dead cells.

At the same time, AHA and PHA acids (citric and lactobionic acids) simultaneously act on the skin surface, removing hyperpigmentation and freckles. BHA acids (salicylic acid), on the contrary, easily penetrate deep into the skin, exerting an effect on it at the cellular level. The biostimulating effect of the agent is that it restores the damaged protective barrier of the skin, has a strong astringent effect and regulates the work of the sebaceous glands, cleanses and narrows the pores; provides hydration, stimulates regeneration and rejuvenation, refreshes and evens out the complexion, acts against rosacea and rosacea, in particular, prevents the appearance of spider veins, blackheads, pigmentation, rashes, acne, redness of the skin; stimulates the production of collagen and increases skin elasticity (strengthens skin turgor), thereby smoothes wrinkles and prevents the formation of new wrinkles, removes edema; prevents photoaging and softens the skin after sunburn, relieves muscle spasm; fights inflammation , heals, removes redness, improves skin immunity; relieves age spots and freckles, cleanses, whitens the skin, inhibiting the synthesis of melanin; softens and tones, gives the skin a fresh look, leaving the skin supple, smooth and radiant. In general, the tonic restores the functions of damaged fibroblasts, triggers and maintains collagen synthesis, stimulates intradermal recovery, ensures the resorption and reorganization of skin scars, activates dormant stem cells, has a retinol-like effect, antioxidant effect, reduces the inflammatory potential and traumatism of external stress effects.

Experiments were carried out to confirm the achievement of the technical result using the present invention.

The manufacture of the tonic according to the present invention is carried out under the conditions established by the interstate standard GOST 31460-2012 “Cosmetic creams. General technical conditions ". In an accredited laboratory, tests for the content of toxic elements have been carried out. Sampling was carried out in accordance with the requirements established by GOST 29188.0-2014 “Perfumery and cosmetic products. Acceptance rules, sampling, methods of organoleptic testing ”. According to the results of the tests carried out, the cosmetic tonic complies with the requirements of the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union TP CU 009/2011.

To participate in the experiments, specialists selected 52 women aged 25 to 65 years, who took part in the corresponding voluntary action and agreed to apply a tonic daily for 36 days to care for the skin of the face, as well as the neck, décolleté, in the morning, closing the top a cosmetic product with an SPF protection level of at least 20+, as well as in the evening before applying a night cream, or constantly use a toner as an independent remedy at night.

The duration of the experiment corresponded to the skin renewal cycle, which lasts from 28 to 36 days. To participate in the experiments, probands were selected who have approximately the same health status, do not have skin diseases, and are in approximately equal economic and social conditions. Any neoplasms (especially malignant ones) were absolute contraindications to involvement in the experiment; violation of blood clotting; severe diseases of internal organs; some diseases of the nervous system; severe hypertension; epilepsy, acne, damaged and / or irritated skin, sunburn, surgical scars. All participants were divided by age into 4 groups of 13 people. Participants were provided with the appropriate amount of tonic complexes for the indicated daily use.

Volunteers subjectively assessed the indicators of the proposed tonic according to a point system from 1 to 5 points. Each volunteer rated the tonic used on a 5-point scale: 5 - excellent; 4 - good; 3 - medium; 2 - bad; 1 - very bad. Also, some questions were given unambiguous answers "yes" or "no".

At the same time, an expert assessment was carried out with the involvement of a specialist cosmetologist-dermatologist and instrumental measurements.

The average results of assessing the use of the tonic by the test participants are presented in Table 1.

Table 1

Estimated properties group 25 - 35 years old group 36 - 45 years old group 46 - 55 years old group 56 - 65 years old organoleptic characteristics (color, smell, consistency) tonic (points) 4.05 4.95 4.56 4, 49 ease of application / removal
(points) 3.95 4.71 4.25 4.72 presence / absence of runoff (points) 3.69 4.58 3.44 4.77 equalization of skin color 3.88 4.09 3.82 3.68 shrinking and reducing the number of pores (points) 3.87 4.77 4.43 4.35 reduction of dry skin of the face (points) 3.54 3.66 3.85 4.22 reduction of dryness of the skin of the neck (points) 2.99 3.05 3.76 3.9 reduction of skin dryness in the décolleté area (points) 3.08 3, 15 3.8 3.85 stretching of fine wrinkles of the facial skin (points) 3.54 4.48 4.55 4.38 stretching of fine wrinkles of the neck skin (points) 3, 75 4.5 4, 4 4.86 stretching of small wrinkles of the skin of the décolleté area (points) 3.25 4.28 4.55 4.75 reduction of the depth of developed wrinkles of the skin and muscles of the face, neck and décolleté (points) 3.66 4.15 4.41 3.94 tightening the oval of the face with a decrease in the sagging of the skin of the cheeks and neck (points) 4.55 4.36 4.08 3.96 sensation of muscle pulsation under the skin 10-15 minutes after application on the face (points) 3.65 4.76 4.03 4.73 restoration of elasticity and healthy tone of the skin of the face, neck and décolleté (points) 4.46 4.74 4.07 3.86 the presence of allergic reactions (yes / no) No No No No the emergence of new and / or an increase in existing defects (yes / no) No No No No assessment of the effectiveness of anti-aging (points) 4.55 4.65 4.7 4.45

The results of an expert assessment of the use of the tonic by a specialist cosmetologist-dermatologist are presented in Table 2. Visual assessment was performed immediately before and after the end of the experiment. The expert assessment was also carried out according to a 5-point system, on average for the skin of the face, neck and décolleté.

table 2

Estimated properties group 25 - 35 years old group 36 - 45 years old group 46 - 55 years old group 56 - 65 years old organoleptic characteristics (color, smell, consistency) tonic (points) 4.44 4.05 4.65 4, 7 ease of application / removal (points) 4.35 3.85 4.76 4.64 presence / absence of runoff (points) 4.16 4.22 4.85 4.9 alignment of skin color (points) 3.55 4.43 4.76 4.64 shrinking and reducing the number of pores (points) 3.18 4.12 3.78 4.47 reduction of dry skin (points) 4.59 4.66 4.27 4.89 stretching fine wrinkles (points) 4.56 4.85 3.68 4.43 reduction of the depth of developed wrinkles (points) 4.24 4.0 4.57 3.48 overall visible skin improvement effect (points) 4.1 4.35 3.88 3.7 feeling of convenience and comfort (points) 4.74 4.67 3.76 3.59 identified allergic reactions (yes / no) No No No No increase in previously existing defects No No No No occurrence of new defects (yes / no) No No No No assessment of the effectiveness of anti-aging (points) 4.5 4.6 4.0 4.2

The results of the instrumental assessment of the proposed tonic (averaged for the skin of the face, neck and décolleté) are presented in Table 3. The initial level of the skin condition of the subjects was taken as 100%, the results were evaluated in% as an increase / decrease (+ /)%.

The method for assessing the skin relief (length, width and depth of wrinkles) is based on determining the intensity of light signal scattering from the skin surface. Methods for assessing the degree of skin pigmentation are also based on the intensity of light absorption. The dermatoscope evaluates the level of skin pigmentation, its structural pattern.

To assess the function of the sebaceous glands, devices are used that assess the change in the optical density of lipophilic plastic films that have absorbed fat from the skin surface over a certain period of time. This method (sebumetry) allows you to estimate the mass content of fat per unit of skin surface. A sebometer is a photometric device that has a special strip that is placed on the patient's skin and then into the analyzer on the device. The strip absorbs fats on the skin surface and becomes more transparent. The device has the commercial name The Sebumeter (SM 815, Courage-Khazaka, Koln, Germany). Sebum can also be analyzed in a simpler and more accessible way - the so-called. greasy strip method (sebutape). It is based on the technique of a polymer film, on which a fragment of sebum is placed, which is then analyzed on a visual scale from 1 to 5 points.

Microcirculation (dermal blood flow) was assessed using skin thermometry. For this, infrared thermal imaging and thermal sensors are used to register the local temperature. The method is based on measuring the loss of heat by the skin when exposed to various irritants. Hot spots on the thermograph screen indicate possible areas with increased blood circulation. The thermograph makes a kind of temperature map of the skin surface

Instrumental measurements were performed immediately before and after the experiment.

Table 3

Estimated indicators group 25 - 35 years old group 36 - 45 years old group 46 - 55 years old group 56 - 65 years old skin elasticity (increase / decrease in +/-%) + 1.0 +0.85 +0.78 + 0.75 skin moisture (+/-%) +1.87 +2.95 +4.50 +2.88 length of fine wrinkles and other lines (+/-%) - 1.94 - 1.75 - 1.8 - 1.6 width of fine wrinkles and other lines (+/-%) -2.04 -3.55 -1.4.5 -0.85 depth of developed wrinkles (+/-%) -0.2 -3.65 -2.0 -3.68 the level of secretion of the sebaceous glands (+/-%) -0.1 -3.19 -3.9 -3.0 violation of blood microcirculation (rosacea) (+/-%) -2.0 -1.67 -2.75 -2.9

In accordance with the results given in tables 1 - 3, the state of the face before and after the application of the proposed tonic (cosmetic composition), a positive dynamics of the main functional parameters of the skin was revealed. Almost all participants in the experiment normalized the secretion of the sebaceous glands, improved their complexion, and tightened the oval of the face. In subjects with signs of rosacea, a decrease in its severity was found.

All the results confirm the possibility and feasibility of using the proposed tonic, which has both healing and therapeutic and prophylactic effects.

Claims (5)

1. A skin care tonic containing sodium hyaluronate, a group of peptides and extracts of plant raw materials, as well as a polysaccharide, a flavoring agent, citric acid, a cosmetically acceptable filler, a preservative and water, characterized in that it contains palmityl tripeptide-1 as peptides, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmityl tetrapeptide-4, palmityl tetrapeptide-7 and copper tripeptide-1; as extracts of herbal raw materials - extracts of lotus flowers and sheep tinder fungus and allantoin; as a polysaccharide - fructan, and as a flavoring agent - raspberry ketone and additionally contains niacinamide, sodium citrate, lactobionic acid and salicylic acid, with the following content of components (in wt%): Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 - 2.5 Palmitil tripeptide-1 0.01 - 0.15 Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 0.01 - 0.18 Palmitil tetrapeptide-4 0.05 - 0.2 Palmitil tetrapeptide-7 0.01 - 0.16 Copper tripeptide-1 1.0 - 2.5 Fruit 1.2 - 1.8; Raspberry Ketone 0.1 - 0.5 Lotus flower extract 1.6 - 2.4 Sheep tinder fungus extract 0.05 - 0.1 Allantoin 0.1 - 2.0 Niacinamide 0.1 - 1.0 Sodium citrate 1.4 - 2.2 Lemon acid 1.2 - 2.0 Lactobionic acid 1.0 - 2.0 Salicylic acid 2.0 - 3.0 Preservative 0.7 - 2.0 Filler 2.5 - 4.5 Water Rest (up to 100%) 2. A tonic according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains water-soluble peppermint oil as a filler. 3. A tonic according to any one of claims 1, 2, characterized in that as a preservative it contains a component from the group: butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin. 4. Tonic according to any one of claims 1, 2, characterized in that it is made with acidity pH = (5.3 ~ 6.3).