WO2008139182A2

WO2008139182A2 - Skin care composition

Info

Publication number: WO2008139182A2
Application number: PCT/GB2008/001646
Authority: WO
Inventors: Frances Prenna Jones
Original assignee: Frances Prenna Jones
Priority date: 2007-05-09
Filing date: 2008-05-09
Publication date: 2008-11-20
Also published as: GB0708938D0; WO2008139182A3; GB2451224A

Abstract

A multi-tasking cosmetic composition comprising synergistic combinations of active agents from natural sources comprises a suitable carrier and a plurality of active ingredients including: at least one exfoliant; at least one astringent; at least one antioxidant; and at least one moisturiser. The at least one exfoliant may comprise salicylic acid and glycolic acid, alternatively, the at least one exfoliant may comprise salicylic acid lactic acid and lactobionic acid. The at least one astringent may comprise Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel). The at least one anti-oxidant may comprise Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew). The cosmetic composition may be formulated as a skin tonic.

Description

I

SKIN CARE COMPOSITION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions for skin care, and in particular, to a multitasking skin tonic comprising synergistic combinations of active agents from natural sources.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Skin may be considered to be composed of two layers, an outer layer known as the epidermis and an inner layer termed the dermis. The dermis contains, amongst other things, nerve endings and the blood vessels that are responsible for transporting nutrients to the cells of the epidermis. The epidermis is a relatively thin layer of non- vascularised stratified epithelium, comprising a lower layer of multiplying cells, the basal layer; and an outer layer of keratinised cells called the stratum corneum. The outermost cells, being further from the blood supply, receive fewer nutrients than the inner epidermis layers, gradually die and are shed. The lower epidermal cells multiply to constantly renew the stratum corneum cells that have been shed. In normal healthy skin there is a dynamic balance between the shedding of stratum corneum cells (also termed desquamation or dekeratinisation) and regeneration. However, an imbalance in dekeratinisation, for instance, as might be caused by widespread or localised physiological changes (e.g. hyperkeratosis and parakeratosis), can result in the accumulation of keratinous material, leading to thickened and inflexible skin, scale formation, and a dry and rough texture (such as chapping, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis). Typically, these skin conditions are treated with a combination of treatments, for example, exfoliating of the altered keratinised skin cells and/or moisturising.

Mammalian skin, and in particular human skin, is exposed to a wide variety of insults from both extrinsic and intrinsic factors that can affect dekeratinisation of the stratum corneum cells. By way of example, extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, chemicals, heat, abrasives and so on, can each cause changes in the biology of the living skin layers, which may then affect the level of keratinisation of the outermost skin cells. Commonly resulting skin damage, such as dryness, cracking, hyperpigmentation and inflammation, may be treated using combinations of moisturisers, anti-pigmentation and anti-inflammatory chemicals to reduce the redness of the skin and increase skin moisture levels and subtleness. Meanwhile, exposure to sunlight can also cause premature ageing, which people may attempt to reduce using sunscreen (UV barrier/sun-block) and/or treat using anti-ageing compositions.

Intrinsic factors that result in an altered skin appearance include ageing and non-age related biochemical changes within the skin, for example, as a result of stress. Chronological ageing is an inevitable process, which results in the loss of skin thickness and elasticity, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which deepen with age. Other visible changes in skin appearance seen in ageing include hyperpigmentation, sagging, enlarged pores and roughening (Oikarinen, 1990, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., vol. 7, pp 3-4). In modern society there is an increasing desire for younger, healthier looking skin; and in particular, to delay the visible onset of ageing. This has led to the widespread use of treatments and cosmetic formulations that are intended to disguise and/or combat the undesirable appearance of aged skin. For example, exfoliation of keratinised skin cells through chemical or mechanical means may be used to reduce the thickness of keratinised areas, and is thought to increase the turnover of the living basal and squamous cells layers. Skin resurfacing through the use of lasers, chemical peels and even surgery may also be used disguise the ageing process. However, such harsh treatments can be undesirable, time-consuming and expensive.

For this reason and others, there is a growing trend towards the use of more gentle and natural treatments, such as herbal or traditional remedies. For example, in FR-A- 2815852 a cosmetic composition comprising papaya, lemon and olive extracts is described. To address this trend, many cosmetic compositions available today contain fruit or plant extracts (or chemicals originally derived from such fruits and plants) and vitamins.

Alternative approaches that are adopted in an attempt to slow the progress of ageing include radical changes in lifestyle and diet. However, in the hectic modern-day society, such changes can be almost impossible to maintain for appreciable periods of time, and certainly not over a lifetime.

A further undesirable skin problem is acne, and there are a number of treatments available for combating the wide variety of spots and blemishes that can result. Many such treatments involve salicylic acid, which at certain concentrations may act as an exfoliator, an astringent, an anti-inflammatory and an anti-bacterial agent.

Accordingly, it is desirable to have cosmetic compositions and methods that disguise and/or delay the visible signs of skin damage and ageing. This goal has already led to the production of a huge array of chemical compositions and treatment regimes. However, to benefit from the available treatments, for example, to combat ageing, reduce hyperkeratinisation and avoid acne, it can be necessary to purchase and use a wide array of different compositions and treatments. This can be extremely expensive and time-consuming and, therefore, not best suited to the modern lifestyle.

In addition, many anti-ageing and skin treatment products contain chemicals that can have harsh effects on skin (and particularly sensitive skin), leading to redness, inflammation, sensitivity, dry skin and other non-desirable side-effects, which may require a person to purchase separate compositions designed to combat these effects.

Hence, there is a need for a multi-tasking, one-stop product that can be readily integrated into a persons current lifestyle and skin care regime, and which seeks to address a number of the factors that cause undesirable skin appearance. In addition, there is a need for a multi-tasking cosmetic formulation that combines natural ingredients, such as vitamins, anti-oxidants, astringents, exfoliators and moisturisers to purify, hydrate and tone the skin. Furthermore, there is a need for a multi-tasking cosmetic product that is not harsh on the skin, so that it can be used on a regular (e.g. daily) basis without causing skin irritation, to visibly improve the appearance of skin and/or delay the visible signs of skin ageing. There is also a need for a skin care product that combats the harsh effects of chemicals on the skin in order to prevent or reduce the occurrence of visible skin irritation.

This invention aims to overcome or at least alleviate some of the problems associated with the prior art.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition for topical application to skin, comprising a combination of active ingredients that provide protection from environmental (extrinsic) factors that may damage skin (in particular from sun exposure), and combat physiological (intrinsic) factors that can also affect the appearance of the skin. More specifically, the invention provides cosmetic compositions that promote skin exfoliation, renewal of stratum corneum cells, increase skin moisturisation, and improve the appearance of the skin - for example, by reducing (or alleviating) visible skin blemishes, such as acne and/or wrinkles. The cosmetic compositions of the invention provide the significant advantage of combining several important functions in a single, multi-tasking formulation, which can be readily integrated into the busy lifestyle of a user. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions of the invention are well tolerated, as a consequence of the reduction or lack of harsh chemicals; include natural and/or traditional and/or herbal active ingredients; and may include vitamins.

Thus, in accordance with a first aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising a suitable carrier and a plurality of active ingredients including: at least one exfoliant; at least one astringent; at least one anti-oxidant; and at least one moisturiser.

This combination of active ingredients has been found to provide a desirable set of synergistic actions that work in harmony with each other to successfully achieve an all round improvement in skin health and appearance. Typical cosmetic treatment regimes can involve applying several cosmetic compositions, one after the other. Often the active ingredients that can be harsh on the skin are applied first, and the potentially visible after effects, such as inflammation and dryness of the skin are treated afterwards, if at all. However, it has now been found that by combining the desirable active ingredients of the invention in a single formulation, the actives work in harmony to reduce or prevent any undesirable skin reactions before they can establish and, thereby, skin blemishes, redness, acne and so on are beneficially reduced or prevented. Apart from removing the need for a user to purchase a number of different compositions, the risk of certain compositions running out at different times (e.g. a moisturiser running out when needed) is also prevented.

A preferred exfoliant in salicylic acid; another preferred exfoliant is glycόlic acid; another preferred exfoliant is lactobionic acid, and in particular, a combination of lactic acid and lactobionic acid. In one advantageous embodiment the at least one exfoliant comprises a combination of salicylic acid and glycolic acid. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the at least one exfoliant comprises a combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid and lactobionic acid. Suitably, the at least one astringent comprises Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel). In another embodiment, the at least one astringent comprises Cucumis sativus juice or extract (cucumber). A combination of Hamamelis virginiana extract and Cucumis sativus extract may be preferred. In advantageous embodiments, the at least one anti-oxidant comprises Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew) and/or lactobionic acid. Advantageously the at least one moisturiser combines both emollient and humectant properties, such as glycerin. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the at least one moisturiser comprises lactobionic acid.

In suitable embodiments the cosmetic compositions of the invention further comprise the complementary activity of at least one anti-inflammatory agent, which may be Zingiber officinale (ginger).

In one embodiment the cosmetic composition advantageously comprises: up to 20% of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA); and between 0.1% and 2% of at least one beta- hydroxy acid (BHA). Suitably, the at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) comprises lactic acid and lactobionic acid. The at least one beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) comprises salicylic acid. In a more suitable embodiment, the cosmetic composition advantageously comprises: between 1% and 15% of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA);between 0.1% and 2% of at least one beta-hydroxy acid (BHA);between 0.1% and 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); and between 0.1% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition. Most suitably, the at least one AHA comprises a combination of lactic acid and lactobionic acid. An advantageous BHA is salicylic acid. In these embodiments, the composition may beneficially further comprise between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger).

In one embodiment the cosmetic composition comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1 % and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1 % and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and between 0.1 % and 1% salicylic acid; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In another embodiment the cosmetic composition comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 15% glycolic acid; between 0.1% and 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.1% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and between 0.1% and 2% salicylic acid; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In one particularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: and effective amount of salicylic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate and Witch Hazel; in combination with at least one additional plant extract. This composition has been found particularly effective in improving the appearance and feel of skin, and provides a synergistic combination of active ingredients having multiple activities. One such cosmetic composition comprises from 0.6% to 1.8% salicylic acid, from 5% to 10% lactic acid, from 5% to 10% lactobionic acid, from 1% to 5% niacinamide, from 0.2% to 3% zinc gluconate, from 0.1% to 5% Witch Hazel, and at least one additional plant extract. The at least one additional plant extract suitably comprises from 0.1% to 5% Feverfew and/or from 0.1% to 5% cucumber extract. From 0.1% and 1% ginger extract may also be advantageously included.

In yet another embodiment the cosmetic composition comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 15% lactic acid and lactobionic acid; between 0.1% and 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1 % and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.1% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and between 0.1% and 2% salicylic acid; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In a further embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one anti-pigmentation agent. A suitable anti-pigmentation agent is aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa). In another embodiment, the anti-pigmentation agent is niacinamide.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one anti-acne and/or anti-sebum agent. Suitable anti-acne agents may be selected from salicylic acid, Zingiber officinale (ginger) and aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa). A most suitable sebum control agent is zinc gluconante.

The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one anti-bacterial agent. Preferred anti-bacterial agents are selected from salicylic acid, Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel) and aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa). At least one preservative, such as an anti-bacterial agent, anti-fungal agent, or antioxidant may also be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. A suitable preservative is imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100), which advantageously further acts as a humectant. A further advantageous preservative is disodium EDTA.

It is particularly advantageous for the cosmetic compositions of the invention to include ingredients from natural sources, such as fruit and/or plant extracts. Certain fruits and plants are known to contain active substances that are particularly beneficial in the treatment and maintenance of the skin. Thus, the cosmetic compositions advantageously comprise at least one fruit and/or plant extract selected from: Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); Citrus aurantium (bitter orange, such as amara and/or dulcis varieties); Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass). Each of these species not only provides a natural source of anti-oxidants, but may also exhibit useful activities such as emollient and anti-inflammatory properties. In a particularly beneficial composition of the invention each of the above fruit and plant extracts is included.

Thus, in a further specific embodiment the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); and at least one of a fruit and/or plant extract selected from Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber), Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange), Punica granatum extract (pomegranate), Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato), and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In another specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1 % and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 0.5% and 4.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); between 0.2% and 2.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); between 0.1% and 2% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); and between 0.025% and 0.5% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention typically further comprise a cosmetically suitable carrier. Such carriers may include one or more solvents, which are beneficially selected according to the active ingredients and specific formulation and use requirements of the cosmetic composition. Preferred carriers are selected from organic and inorganic solvents; for example, alcohol (preferably denatured alcohol) and water. Another carrier / solvent particularly suitable for use in a composition comprising salicylic acid is ethoxydiglycol

Typically the cosmetic composition is in the form of a skin tonic, a cream, a lotion, a serum, a face wash, an ointment, a foam, a shampoo, or a gel. However, the person skilled in the art will appreciate that any composition suitable for topical administration may be used. A particularly preferred form of composition is a skin tonic, which advantageously comprises water, denatured alcohol and ethoxydiglycol as the carriers / solvents. Glycerin may also be considered to be a carrier / solvent.

Accordingly, a further preferred cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy- allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 0.5% and 4.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); between 0.2% and 2.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); between 0.1% and 2% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); between 0.025% and 0.5% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); between 2.5% and 15% denatured alcohol; between 3% and 15% ethxydiglycol; and water to 100%; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

Another preferred cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise: between 5% and 20% glycerin; between 2% and 8% glycolic acid; between 3% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.5% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.5% and 2% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.3% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.25% and 0.75% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 1.0% and 3.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); between 0.5% and 1.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate);- between 0.25% and 1.0% Solarium lycopersicum juice (tomato); between 0.05% and 0.25% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); between 5.0% and 12% denatured alcohol; between 5% and 15% ethxydiglycol; and water to 100%; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment the cosmetic composition comprises: approximately 15% glycerin; approximately 5.2% glycolic acid; approximately 5.1% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); approximately 3.5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); approximately 1.0% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); approximately 0.6% salicylic acid; approximately 0.5% aluminium chlorohydroxy- allantoinate (alcloxa); approximately 0.2% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); approximately 2.5% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); approximately 2.5% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); approximately 1.0% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); approximately 0.5% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); approximately 0.075% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); approximately 9.0% denatured alcohol; approximately 10.0% ethxydiglycol; and water to 100%; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

In a specific embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition further comprises a sun-protecting agent (e.g. a UV-block).

The invention also provides a cosmetic composition as described herein in a dispensing container.

In a second aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin and/or maintaining a healthy and blemish-free skin appearance and/or combating the signs of skin ageing in an individual. The method of the invention comprises topically applying a cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin of the individual. All references cited herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by the person skilled in the art to which this invention belongs.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Prior to setting forth the invention a number of definitions are provided that will assist in the understanding of the invention.

The terms "active agent" or "active ingredient" refer to molecules, compounds, chemicals and extracts that perform a particular function (or purpose) when in use in a cosmetic composition according to the invention. It will be appreciated that while a specific molecule, compound, chemical or extract may have a particular stated or recognised function, it may perform more than one function to lesser or greater extents, which may depend, for example, on the combination of different active ingredients and/or its concentration and/or upon the relevant circumstances. Purely by way of example, a humectant or a solvent may also perform the function of an emollient; a preservative may also perform the function of a humectant; and an astringent may also act as an antioxidant or an anti-bacterial agent in certain conditions or at particular concentrations.

The terms "dekeratinisation", "desquamation" and "exfoliation" as used herein mean the removal (e.g. by detachment or shedding) of the upper layers of the stratum corneum (for instance, the horny surface layers) of the epidermis. Hence, the term "exfoliant" (or similar) means an agent that promotes or carries out the process of exfoliation, desquamation and dekeratinisation.

An "antioxidant" is an agent that impedes or slows free-radical damage by slowing or preventing the oxidation of other chemicals, typically by being oxidised itself. Thus, antioxidants are often reducing agents such as thiols or phenols.

As used herein, the term "astringent" refers to a substance that tends to shrink or constrict body tissues, usually locally after topical application. On the skin an astringent may have a tightening effect and can reduce the size of pores.

The term "moisturising" refers to the process of adding moisture to the skin (i.e. providing hydration to the skin), and/or preventing the loss of moisture from the skin. Thus, a "moisturising agent" (compound or active ingredient) or "moisturiser" is an agent that performs the process of moisturising when applied onto the skin. More specifically, as used herein, the term moisturising agent encompasses both "emollients" and "humectants".

An "emollient" is an agent, which softens and/or soothes the skin. Typically an emollient forms a water barrier over the skin to retain or increase the tissue moisture content and thus, render the skin softer and more pliable.

In use, a "humectant" is an agent that incorporates moisture into the layers of the skin, thereby increasing tissue moisture content. Generally, humectants are hydroscopic, actively absorbing moisture from the air and retaining it in contact with the skin.

An "anti-inflammatory" agent as used herein refers to a substance that reduces inflammation. The term "inflammation" has its usual meaning in the art; it may, for example, be triggered by injury/damage to skin cells (e.g. due to exposure to sun or chemicals), or as a result of acne. Inflammation is typically visually characterised by redness of the skin.

A "smoothing agent" refers to an agent that improves the feel of skin, such as providing a smooth, soft or silky texture. Similarly a "lubricant" is a substance that makes the skin feel smoother to the touch and reduce friction.

The term "hyperpigmentation" as used herein refers to an area of skin wherein the pigmentation is greater than that of an adjacent area of skin (e.g., a pigment spot, an age spot, and the like). The area of hyperpigmentation may also be caused by an inflammatory event (e.g., acne, scratch, insect sting or bite, sunburn, etc). As used herein, a anti-pigmentation agent (or active ingredient) is one that is capable of visible reducing or eliminating hyperpigmentation.

The term "plant extract" as used herein also encompasses herbal extracts and extracts from fruit. The word "extract" should not be read to exclude "juices", which may be alternative useful forms of the plant (or herb) concerned. Plant parts used to create extracts may include the blossom, leaf, petal, wood, fruit, flower, nut, seed, peel, rind, bark, root, branch, shell and peduncle. An extract is conveniently in the form of a distillate or tincture. A variety of extract media are available, such as hydroglycolic, glycolic, aqueous, hydroglyceric, glyceric, oily and alcoholic. Typically, a tincture is an alcoholic extract. Plant extracts may be water-based (and therefore water soluble) or oil- based (and therefore oil soluble). For example, oil-based extracts include: Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); Zingiber officinale (ginger); and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass). Oil-based extracts may be manufactured at a concentration of between 10% and 50% of pure plant extract in oil, and are typically in the range of 10% to 20% plant extract in oil. Water-based extracts include: Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); Citrus aurantium amara and Citrus aurantium dulcis (bitter orange); Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato). Water-based extracts may be manufactured at a concentration of between 10% and 50% of the pure plant extract in water or solvent, and are typically purchased at a concentration of between 10% and 20% of the plant extract in water or solvent. Where proportions of plant extracts are given for the compositions described herein, it will be appreciated that the percentage by weight specified refers to the percentage by weight of the actual oil-based or water- based extract (i.e. including the carrier) and not to the amount of pure plant product. The person skilled in the art will appreciate that the amount of plant extract used may, therefore, be adjusted slightly depending on the concentration of the extract itself. Where an essential oil is available for a particular plant extract it may be considered to be a 100% pure extract and is not diluted into an oil or water carrier. Ginger may conveniently be used as an essential oil.

An "emulsion" is a dispersed system containing at least two immiscible liquid phases (typically oil and water), which may be stabilised using an emulsifying agent to form a single phase. Thus, an "emulsifying agent" is an agent that, when added to an emulsion or to ingredients likely to result in an emulsion, causes formation of an emulsion and/or improves the stability of the emulsion. A "stabiliser" or "stabilising agent" is a molecule that functions to stabilise an emulsion.

The term "surfactant" is used herein to refer to a substance that enables a topical composition to more easily spread / glide across the surface of skin.

A "stiffening agent" refers to an agent that improves the consistency of an emulsion.

A "solvent" or "carrier" is a chemical substance that can dissolve, suspend or extract other materials, usually without chemically changing either the solvents or the other materials. A solvent or carrier may be organic, (i.e. containing carbon, e.g. an alcohol), or inorganic (i.e. not containing carbon, e.g. water). A solvent, but particularly a "carrier" (or "vehicle") may also be used to increase the volume of a composition to achieve a desired volume or consistency.

A "preservative" is an agent that inhibits or prevents the growth of microorganisms (e.g. bacterial and/or fungi). This term thus incorporates both anti-bacterial agents and antifungal agents. The term "anti-bacterial" refers to any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria; and the term "anti-fungal" similarly refers to any agent that destroys or inhibits the growth of a fungus. Anti-oxidants and chelating agents may act as preservatives.

A "chelating agent" is a molecule that binds (i.e. chelates) metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium ions.

A "sub-blocking agent" or "sunscreen" is used to provide protection from the harmful (skin damaging) effects of ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays. A sunscreen may be given a "Sun Protection Factor" (SPF) number that indicates the level of protection provided.

The term "topical administration" refers to local administration directly onto the (outer) surface of the skin of an individual, e.g. onto the stratum corneum of a mammal. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be suitable for mammals in general, but are particularly suitable for topical administration to humans.

As used herein the term "treating" may encompass relieving, alleviating, reducing, improving or eliminating at least one symptom or condition associated with the skin.

Unless otherwise specified, % refers to % wt; which is the percentage by weight of the particular ingredient with respect to the total weight of the composition.

To achieve the benefits associated with the invention a complementary combination of active agents is provided within a single cosmetic composition for improving the look, feel and/or health of the skin of an individual. The complementary actions of each of the ingredients create a synergistic effect in the: removal of unwanted skin cells; promotion of self-renewal of the skin; improvement in the appearance of visible blemishes (such as acne), fine lines and wrinkles; soothing and moisturising of the skin to relieve any possible reaction to other ingredients in the composition; and leaving the skin looking and feeling younger, healthy, and refreshed. The mild composition has good tolerance, which minimises and actively combats any skin irritation. Furthermore, by combining the beneficial skin soothing properties of moisturising and anti-inflammatory agents, for example, in the same composition as exfoliants and astringents, any potentially harsh effects on the skin are immediately mitigated, in a manner that is superior to and/or more convenient than using a plurality of separate formulations one after the other.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention_comprise at least one exfoliant to remove the surface layers of the stratum corneum, particularly the horny layers of the skin; and to promote self-renewal of the skin. While exfoliation can be achieved mechanically (e.g. by rubbing the surface of the skin using an abrasive), a chemical exfoliant, as used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention, tends to exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substances in skin that hold skin cells together. The result of this exfoliation is to increase the turnover of surface skin cells and leaving a plumper, smoother skin with a more even skin tone with a better colour. Chemical exfoliants that may be used in cosmetic compositions of the invention include beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and alpha- hydroxy acids (AHAs), and indeed, these chemicals have largely replaced mechanical exfoliants in beauty regimes. Both AHAs and BHAs are most effective in acidic mediums (i.e. below pH 7). Notably, AHAs are water-soluble while BHAs are oil-soluble.

The compositions of the invention may include one or more BHA, one or more AHA and/or one or more BHA and AHA in combination. Preferred compositions of the invention include one or more BHA and one or more AHA. Exfoliants may be used at total concentrations of up to 20%, such as between 1% and 15%. It will be appreciated that the quantity of BHA used in the composition may be determined by, for example, the strength of the exfoliation activity required and/or the proportion of AHA used in the composition, and vice versa.

Salicylic acid is a particularly preferred BHA for use as an exfoliant. It is thought to accelerate the removal of stratum corneum cells by decreasing their "stickiness" or cohesion (Roberts, 1980, Brit. J. Derm., Vol. 103, pp 191). Salicylic acid was originally obtained from willow trees, and is also found naturally in wintergreen, sweet birch and other plants. Typically, however, it is produced synthetically. It has further been shown to be a safe and effective multifunctional ingredient that in appropriate concentrations may also be used inter alia as a chemical peel, to reduce oil levels on and in the skin, and as an anti-acne agent. Salicylic acid is a chemical derivative of aspirin, and so it may also function as an anti-inflammatory agent {Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390-1395). Furthermore, salicylic acid may be used as an anti-bacterial agent (Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing), which can also help to treat acne. Beneficially, salicylic acid is capable of opening and penetrating into the pores in skin and, therefore, its exfoliating activity can function within pores (which can help effectively reduce acne - blackheads and whiteheads), as well on the surface of the skin.

Salicylic acid is used in the cosmetic compositions at any appropriate concentration for use as an exfoliant, but not at such a high concentration that it acts as a chemical peel. Thus, it may be used at a concentration of between 0.1% and 4% or at a concentration between 0.1% and 2%. Suitably, it is used at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.8%. In one embodiment, it is suitably used at a concentration of between 0.3% and 1.0%, and more suitably at a concentration of between 0.5% and 1.0%, and still more suitably at a concentration of approximately 0.6% salicylic acid is used. In another embodiment in which a higher exfoliation activity is desirable, salicylic acid may be used at a concentration of up to 2%, such as between 0.6% and 1.8%. Thus, the concentration of salicylic acid may be 1.8%.

AHAs may be derived from various plant and/or fruit sources and milk; but many are now produced synthetically. As in the case of a BHA₁ their exfoliating activity is typically achieved by breaking down the molecules in skin that hold adjacent skin cells together. AHAs have been reported to treat hyperkeratinisation (over-thickened skin), to promote self-renewal of skin cells and help to increase skin thickness. Useful AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid (see for example, J. Euro. Acad. Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pp 280-284; and Am. J. CHn. Dermatology, March-April 2000, pp 81-88). Another favourable AHA is lactobionic acid, which is advantageous because it possesses a number of properties that can be used to benefit the compositions of the invention. Other acids such as malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid may also be used at appropriate concentrations so as to avoid irritation of the skin. Apart from exfoliating the top layers of the epidermis, AHAs may also promote moisture restoration and penetration into the skin of other active ingredients. Hence, AHAs are advantageously combined with additional active ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Unlike BHAs (which are oil-soluble), AHAs do not tend to penetrate within pores. It will be appreciated that the activity of BHAs and AHAs may be affected by the pH of the environment, and so the concentration of these acids in a cosmetic composition may be selected according to the other ingredients in the composition and the type of formulation (e.g. emulsion or tonic).

A most suitable AHA for use in the cosmetic compositions described herein is glycolic acid (the simplest AHA), which at suitable concentrations may help reduce fine lines, irregular pigmentation age spots, decrease enlarged pores, and soften scarring. Glycolic acid may also be used as a regulator of pH (i.e. a buffer) within the cosmetic composition. When used, glycolic acid may be incorporated at a concentration of between 1% and 15%, such as between 1% and 10%. More suitably glycolic acid may be used at a concentration of between 2% and 8%, still more suitably at between 4% and 6%, such as approximately 5%. In some cosmetic compositions, glycolic acid is advantageously used at a concentration of 5.2%.

In one beneficial cosmetic compositions of the invention both salicylic acid and glycolic acid are used, which combination has been found to provide complementary activities in the care of skin. A preferred combination combines salicylic acid at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.0% and glycolic acid at a concentration of between 1% and 10%. A more preferred composition comprises salicylic acid at a concentration of approximately 0.6% and glycolic acid at a concentration of approximately 5.2%. In another suitable emboiment, the amount of salicylic acid is approximately 1.8%.

In another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the AHA is lactobionic acid. Lactobionic acid may provide a number of desirable activities, which can reduce the requirement for additional active ingredients and thereby reduce the number and quantity of potentially harsh chemicals. For example, lactobionic acid may act as an exfoliant, and antioxidant and also a moisturiser. In an advantageous embodiment, the AHAs comprise lactic acid and lactobionic acid in a combined amount of up to 15%. The combination of lactic and lactobionic acids has been found to provide particularly beneficial effects and provides complementary activities when combined with astringents and plant extracts in a cosmetic compositions of the invention. When used in combination, the proportion of lactic acid may be the same as or different to the proportion of lactobionic acid. For example, there may be between 5% and 10% each of lactic acid and lactobionic acid, and suitably between 6.5% and 8.5% of lactic acid, and between 6.5% and 8.5% of lactobionic acid. In one embodiment, the proportion of lactic acid used is greater than the proportion of lactobionic acid used. In another embodiment, the proportion of lactic acid is less than the proportion of lactobionic acid used.

A combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid and lactobionic acid has been found to provide a particularly beneficial synergistic combination of activities.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention further comprise at least one agent that can act as an astringent, to tighten/tone skin and reduce pore size. After topical application, astringents may quickly penetrate the skin, shrink or constrict body tissues, and thereby accelerate the healing of skin blemishes and reduce redness. As well as tone, astringents may also be advantageously used to reduce oily skin and lower skin pH. Astringents that may usefully be employed in the cosmetic compositions of the invention include: Witch Hazel extract, cucumber extract, Jojoba oil, rosemary, calamine (lotion), and aluminium. Accordingly, a suitable astringent is aluminium chlorohydroxy- allantoinate (alcloxa), described further below. A beneficial astringent for use in the cosmetic compositions described herein is Witch Hazel. Another suitable astringent is derived from cucumber extract (Cucumis sativus). Advantageous compositions of the invention comprise Witch Hazel extract and cucumber extract used in the amounts indicated below. The astringent may be used at any suitable concentration, such in a combined amount of between 0.1% and 10%, or between 1% and 10%.

Witch Hazel (or Hamamelis virginiana) is a botanical extract that may be derived from the bark, leaves or twigs of the Which Hazel shrub. The useful extract contains a variety of constituents including tannin, gallic acid, catechins, proanthocyanins, flavonoids, essential oils, choline, saponins, and bitters. While the tannins are primarily responsible for the astringent properties of Witch Hazel, the saponins (a sugar-steroid alcohol complex) exhibit high surface activity, which helps cleanse the skin by facilitating the removal of dirt and oil for the surface of skin and its pores. Witch Hazel is also considered to act as a strong antioxidant due to the presence of high levels of tannins (Phytotherapy Research, June 2002, pp 364-367), and may even provide slight anti- irritant properties {Skin Pharmacol. Applied Skin Physiol., March-April 2002, pp 125- 132).

In accordance with preferred embodiments of the invention, the use of an astringent, particularly Witch Hazel and cucumber extract, help to soothe the skin following the action of the at least one exfoliant, reduce skin irritation and blemishes, combat acne and, importantly, tones the skin. Witch Hazel may be used at any suitable concentration, such as between 0.1% and 10%, 1% and 10% or between 1% and 6%, depending on the concentration of the extract. For example, it may be used at a concentration of between 3% and 6%, or between 5% and 6%, such as at a concentration of approximately 5.1%. In another embodiment, the concentration of Witch Hazel extract is up to 1%, such as between 0.3% and 0.7%.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention also further comprise at least one antioxidant to help reduce free radical damage to the skin, speed up cell regeneration and keep skin healthy and young looking. Free-radical damage to the skin can be caused by the presence of oxygen or any compound that contains an oxygen molecule (such as carbon monoxide, hydrogen peroxide, and superoxide), sunlight, and pollution. It is thought that free radicals in the skin cause damage to collagen and other skin components, resulting in premature ageing and the early appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (Bioelectrochem. Bioenergetics, May 1999, pp 453-461). Therefore, antioxidants are becoming increasingly important to protect the skin from the action of the sun's harmful rays and the large quantities of chemicals that pollute the atmosphere, particularly to prevent the symptom of premature ageing (J. CHn. Pathol., March 2001, pp 176-186).

Antioxidants are often reducing agents, for example, thiols and phenols. Many natural molecules can provide anti-oxidant properties: such as vitamins (including vitamins A, C, and E), amino acids (for example, methionine, L-cysteine, and L-camitine); enzymes (such as superoxide dismutase, ecatalase, and peroxidases); and coenzymes (for example, coenzyme Q10 and alpha lipoic acid). Glutathione is also a known antioxidant. Thus, anti-oxidants can be provided from the body's own production and from dietary sources. However, this is generally thought to be insufficient and so topically applied anti-oxidants useful and at least one such anti-oxidant is employed in the cosmetic composition of the invention. Any of the above-mentioned anti-oxidants may be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of the invention.

Advantageously, the anti-oxidants used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are derived from plants. A preferred potent anti-oxidant for use in accordance with the invention is from Feverfew extract (obtained from Chrysanthemum parthenium; a type of daisy). Taken orally, Feverfew has additionally been shown to possess anti- inflammatory properties. Feverfew is particularly advantageous because, being a strong anti-oxidant it can provide effective protection from skin damage caused by the sun's harmful rays. Furthermore, the potential anti-inflammatory action may help calm inflamed skin. In the compositions of the invention it is beneficially used at a concentration of up to 5%, such as between 0.2% and 3%, or between 0.5% and 2%. Advantageously, it is used at a concentration of between 0.75% and 1.5%, and more preferably at a concentration of approximately 1.0%. In one suitable embodiment, Feverfew extract is used at a concentration of up to 1% or up to 0.5%.

In the cosmetic compositions of the invention a high concentration of anti-oxidant is particularly preferred in order to retard skin ageing and, thereby, delay the visible signs of ageing, such as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Advantageously, in the compositions of the invention, the high concentration of anti-oxidants desired is provided from more than one source, and preferably from more than one natural source, such as from fruit and/or plant extracts.

By combining more than one source of anti-oxidant it has been found that different properties and additional benefits are combined in a single formulation. In this regard, botanical anti-oxidants can be broadly categorised into three classes (polyphenols, carotenoids and flavonoids - a subset of polyphenols) depending on the structure of the respective anti-oxidant molecules.

Flavonoids are present in many berries as well as in tea and coffee. Potent flavonoid anti-oxidants are quercetin (a flavonol in vegetables, fruit skins, onions), xanthohumol (a prenylated chalcone in hops and beer), isoxanthohumol (a prenylated flavanone in hops and beer), and genistein (an isoflavone in soy). Orange also is a source of flavonoid anti-oxidants and is particularly beneficial in providing a desirable colour and fragrance. Thus, in certain embodiments of the invention the cosmetic compositions further comprise orange extract, for example, from Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orangeflower extract), and/or the extract of Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange), which has been shown to be a good source of anti-oxidant when ingested (J. Agricultural Food Chem., December 1999, pp 5239-5244). When used, it may also be used at a concentration suitable for imparting a desirable colour and/or fragrance to the composition. Useful concentrations of Citrus aurantium dulcis and Citrus aurantium amara extract are up to 5%, and may be between 0.5% and 5.0% or between 0.5% and 4.0%. In some embodiments, the concentration is between 1.0% and 3.0%. In a particularly composition the Citrus aurantium amara extract is used at a concentration of approximately 2.5%. In another embodiment, Citrus aurantium dulcis extract is used at a concentration of up to 1% or up to 0.5%.

Lemongrass oil (obtained from Cymbopogon schoenanthus) is also a suitable natural source of flavonoids, as well as it being a desirable natural colouring and scent. Lemongrass is particularly useful due to its reported anti-bacterial properties (J. Applied Microbiol., 2000, vol. 88, pp 308-316). In certain concentrations it may also possess astringent and anti-irritant qualities. When used, it may be provided in a concentration of up to 1%, such as between 0.025% and 1% or between 0.025% and 0.5%. Preferably it is at a concentration between 0.05% and 0.25%. In a particularly preferred composition lemongrass oil is used at a concentration of approximately 0.075%.

Carotenoids are the precursors to vitamin A and, therefore, in addition to their antioxidant properties, they can provide some of the benefits of retinol and vitamin A. Carotenoids are present in many fruits and plants and develop in the bodies of plant- eating animals. Extract of tomato (Solarium lycopersicum juice) is a particularly advantageous source of carotenoid, because at appropriate concentrations it may also provide anti-inflammatory, anti-redness and moisturising properties. In a cosmetic composition of the invention it may be used at a concentration of up to 5%, such as between 0.1% and 2.0%, or 0.25% and 1.0%. In a preferred composition it is used at a concentration of approximately up to 1% and more suitably up to 0.5%.

Natural sources of polyphenol anti-oxidants may also be employed within the compositions of the invention. Such natural sources include berries, fruits and nuts, and will be known to the person skilled in the art. A preferred fruit extract is pomegranate (Punica granatum), which provides ellagic acid that is also suggested to be an effective anti-carcinogen when taken orally. When used, a suitable concentration is up to 2.5%, such as between 0.2% and 2.5% or between 0.5% and 1.5%. In one embodiment, the concentration of pomegranate extract is up to 1% or more suitably up to 0.5%.

As stated, the cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably combine natural antioxidants from each of the three groups of anti-oxidant. Thus, a beneficial combination of plant-derived anti-oxidants includes Feverfew extract and at least one additional plant extract. For example, one suitable composition comprises bitter orange extract, lemongrass oil, tomato juice and pomegranate extract, for example, in the above- mentioned concentrations. Suitably, the natural fruit and plant extracts are combined in appropriate concentration to provide a desirable colour and fragrance, without the need for artificial colourings and fragrances.

Further natural plant and fruit extracts may also be incorporated to provide further beneficial qualities to the cosmetic compositions of the invention, as described elsewhere herein.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention also further comprise at least one moisturiser to help condition the skin, retain or increase moisture levels in the skin, and promote a soft and subtle feel. Moisturisers may possess humectant and/or emollient activity. Use of a natural humectant in a cosmetic composition helps to increase the rate of moisturisation to the upper layers of the skin. Examples of humectants that may be used in the compositions of the invention include: glycerine, propylene glycol (E 1520) and glyceryl triacetate (E1518), pyroglutamic acid; amino acids (e.g. glutamate); polyols such as sorbitol (E420), xylitol and maltitol (E965), or polymeric polyols such as polydextrose (E1200); natural extracts such as quillaia (E999), lactic acid or urea; or any other hydroscopic substances; or any combination of such humectants.

Emollients are substances that hinder/prevent water loss from the skin and thereby provide a softening and soothing effect. Typically, they are retained on the surface of the skin (i.e. the stratum corneum), removing dryness, reducing flaking and scaling, and act as a lubricant creating a smooth feel and appearance. Emollients that may be used in accordance with the invention can be natural, such as plant oils; processed from a natural substance (e.g. mineral oil); or synthetically produced (e.g. silicones). By way of example, suitable emollients include: cetearyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, triglycerides, myristic acid, palmitic acid, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl linoleate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, hexyl laurate, isohexadecane, methyl glucose sesquioleate, decyl oleate, stearic acid, and octyldodecanol. More preferred are natural emollients such as hydrogenated plant oils (e.g. almond oil), shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin and glycerin.

Preferred moisturisers for use in compositions of the invention are glycerin (also known as glycerol or glycerine), ethoxydiglycol and urea (or imidazolidinyl urea, e.g. Biopure 100). These agents may be considered to be both humectants and emollients. A particularly advantageous moisturiser is glycerin, which is a naturally occurring compound that can be processed from natural fats and oils of plant or animal origin. In mice, glycerol replacement has been shown to correct defective skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier function (Hara & Verkman, 2003, Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci., 10(12), pp 7360- 7365). Glycerin may also serve as a lubricant, imparting a smooth feel to the surface of skin. It may be used in any type of skin care formulation, for example, in skin creams, lotions, emulsions, tonics and cleansers. Glycerin may be used in the compositions of the invention at any appropriate concentration, for example, between 1% and 25% or between 5% and 20%. Preferably it is used at a concentration of between 10% and 20%, and more preferably at a concentration of approximately 15%.

Glycerin is advantageously combined with ethoxydiglycol in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Ethoxydiglycol at appropriate concentrations is an effective humectant and solvent of salicylic acid. When used, ethoxydiglycol may be added at a concentration of between 3% and 15% or between 3% and 12%. In some compositions it may be used at between 5% and 10%. In one embodiment, ethoxydiglycol is used at a concentration of approximately 10%. However, in some countries it may be necessary to use less than 10% ethoxydiglycol, in which case it is used at a concentration of up to 10%. When required as a carrier/solvent for salicylic acid, the concentration of ethoxydiglycol used may be in part dependant on the amount of salicylic acid present.

Urea may also be advantageously combined with glycerin and optionally with ethoxydiglycol to increase the moisturising action of the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Urea provides the further advantage of being an effective preservative as described further below.

Lubricants may also be advantageously included in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. As the person skilled in the art will appreciate, there is a significant overlap between emollients, humectants and lubricants. By way of example, suitable lubricants include natural moisturising factors, such as: amino acids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, urea, linoleic acid, glycosaminoglycans, mucopolysaccharide, glycerin and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Some lubricants act by mimicking the natural lipid content of skin, for example: olive oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, coconut oil, corn oil, apricot oil, canola oil, jojoba oil, jojoba wax, lanolin, lecithin, shea butter, soybean oil, squalane, and almond oil. One or more of these agents can be used particularly to improve the appearance and texture of dry skin. In preferred embodiments the cosmetic compositions may include at least one antiinflammatory agent to reduce the signs of inflammation. Such inflammation may be characterised by swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, and/or redness. Any suitable antiinflammatory agent may be used. One preferred anti-inflammatory agent is salicylic acid, which is a derivative of aspirin (acetyl salicylic acid) as previously discussed.

A particularly preferred anti-inflammatory agent for use in the compositions of the invention is from Zingiber officinale (ginger), for example, the root oil derived from ginger (Food and Chemical Toxicology, August 2002, pp 1091-1097). Traditionally ginger has also been used as a circulatory stimulant, which could help to improve the blood flow and colour of the skin, and also as an antiseptic. Further advantageous properties of ginger include its pleasant scent, which can even be used in aromatherapy. When used, the concentration of ginger may be between 0.1% and 5%, between 0.5% and 5%, between 1% and 4%, or between 1% and 3.5%. The exact amount of ginger used, however, may vary according to the required balance of ingredients used in the cosmetic composition of the invention. For example, in some cases a higher concentration of ginger may be preferred to provide increased anti-inflammatory action, for example, when the concentration of exfoliating agents (e.g. glycolic acid and/or salicylic acid is relatively high). Thus, in some embodiments of the invention, the concentration of ginger is typically up to 0.5% or approximately 0.1%. This is particularly the case when ginger essential oil is used. When diluted extracts of ginger are used the concentration of ginger extract may be higher. In one preferred embodiment, the concentration of ginger in the cosmetic composition is approximately 1.0%, and in another preferred embodiment, the concentration of ginger in the cosmetic composition is approximately 3.5%.

Another substance that may be usefully employed within the compositions of the invention for its anti-inflammatory properties is tomato extract / juice, which has been previously discussed. Suitable concentrations of tomato extract, when used, are the same as previously indicated.

Anti-pigmentation agents may also be included in cosmetic compositions in order to reduce skin blotches, such as red or brown patches (e.g. hyperpigmentation), and generally uneven colouring that may be caused by age, skin irritation and/or exposure to sunlight. Anti-pigmentation agents that may suitably be employed in cosmetic compositions include: substances based on active ingredients such as hydroquinone, mulberry extract, liquorice extract, kojic acid or arbutin, which inhibit the formation of melanin (skin pigments); and acids that exfoliate or peel old skin and reveal the newer, lighter skin below. Niacinamide is a suitable anti-pigmentation agent, which may be used at concentrations of up to 10%, and more suitably up to 5%, such as between 2% and 5%.

Another suitable anti-pigmentation agent is aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa), an aluminium salt of allantoin. Allantoin is considered to be a skin soothing agent, which may be derived from plants (such as the herb comfrey), obtained from mammalian tissues (e.g. from cows), or prepared synthetically. This agent is particularly beneficial because it combines a number of further advantageous properties, including: the astringent and mild antimicrobial properties of aluminium; and the possible anti- irritant, soothing, and healing properties of allantoin. At appropriate concentrations it may also act as an anti-acne agent. Useful concentrations of alcloxa are between 0.1% and 2.0%, preferably between 0.25% and 0.75% and more preferably approximately 0.5%. Allantoin may beneficially be used in place of aluminium chlorohydroxy- allantoinate, for example, where an alternative anti-pigmentation agent, such as niacinamide is used. In which case it may be used at a concentration of up to 1%, such as up to 0.5%.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may advantageously include one or more anti-acne agent. Suitable anti-acne agents are known to the person skilled in the art, and may be incorporated in appropriate concentrations, as necessary. In particularly beneficial compositions, however, it is not necessary to include an additional, dedicated anti-acne agent. In this regard, salicylic acid (as previously mentioned) can act as an effective anti-acne agent at appropriate concentrations. Likewise, ginger may also provide an anti-acne activity. Alcloxa and Witch Hazel may also provide anti-acne properties at suitable concentrations. Thus, by selecting synergistic combinations of the active agents described herein, the cosmetic compositions of the invention can readily provide a full range of desirable skin care properties. In preferred cosmetic compositions of the invention both salicylic acid and ginger are included and help control, reduce or eliminate acne and any inflammation associated therewith. In more preferred compositions Witch Hazel is also included and optionally alcloxa. When a dedicated anti-acne agent is desirable, an anti-sebum agent, such as zinc gluconate, may be used. Zinc gluconate may be used at amounts of up to 5%, more suitably, in the range of up to 3% and optionally up to 1%.

It has been found to be beneficial in a multi-tasking one-stop cosmetic composition to further provide at least one anti-bacterial agent; especially an agent that is effective against the bacteria that may be associated with facial acne and skin blemishes. Preferred anti-bacterial agents for use in cosmetic compositions of the invention are salicylic acid and Witch Hazel. Accordingly, most advantageously it is not necessary to supplement the preferred cosmetic compositions with additional, dedicated anti-bacterial agents. In certain concentrations alcloxa may also provide an anti-bacterial effect, and so may be beneficially employed for this purpose. Suitable concentrations of salicylic acid, Witch Hazel and alcloxa may be selected from the respective concentrations previously given.

Preservatives are beneficially employed to extend the lifetime of cosmetic compositions by preventing (or at least inhibiting) the growth of microbial contaminants such as bacteria, yeast and molds. Advantageously the concentration of preservatives is kept low to reduce the risk of skin irritation. However, it is worth noting that the likelihood of skin irritation is probably greater from a microbial-contaminated product. One or more preservative may be used, for example, one or more of alkanols (such as phenoxy ethanol); ethylenediaminetetra acetic acid (EDTA); EDTA-fatty acid conjugates; isothiazolinone; parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben); propylene glycols; sorbates; urea and urea derivatives (such as imidazolidinyl urea); quaternary ammonium salts; and combinations thereof. Parabens are the most widely used preservatives in cosmetic compositions, because they are well tolerated by the skin. When selecting an appropriate preservative it should be borne in mind that pH can have a significant effect on the function of the preservative. For example, organic acids, such as the parabens are only active in their acid states. Therefore, it may be beneficial to control the pH of the cosmetic composition, for example, using a buffer. When present, preservatives are typically in an amount of between 0.1% and 2% of the total composition.

EDTA is an advantageous preservative because its ability to chelate metal ions provides the synergistic effect of enhancing the activity of anti-oxidants, such as vitamins A, C and E; it also may improve the action of anti-pigmentation agents; and may help to preserve the physical form of the composition itself (e.g. by aiding the activity of surfactants). Another suitable preservative is imidazolidinyl urea, which advantageously also acts as a skin conditioning agent and humectant (as already described). Imidazolidinyl urea is an effective preservative even at low concentrations, and therefore, it may be used at concentrations of less than 1.0%, for example, between 0.05% and 0.5%, and preferably at a concentration of approximately 0.2%. The only contraindication may be when the formulation also comprised amines, such as triethanolamine (TEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or monoethanolamine (MEA); in which case an alternative preservative, such as EDTA may be substituted (Fundamentals and Applied Toxicology, August 1993, pp 213- 221 ).

In addition or in the alternative citric acid or any of the anti-oxidants already described may be employed to provide a preservative function. In this way, the need for dedicated preservatives, such as parabens, can beneficially be reduced and preferably eliminated.

As previously discussed, the cosmetic compositions of the invention advantageously comprise at least one, and preferably several natural fruit and plant extracts, which are selected for their scent, colour and natural active agents. A particularly beneficial natural product is the extract of Cucumis sativus (cucumber). In addition to its astringent activity and its properties as a toner (e.g. tightening stressed and tired skin), cucumber extract is thought to have a number of advantageous properties for the health of skin. It is considered to be a very good natural emollient, which helps to maintain/retain high moisture levels in the skin. It also has a soothing effect on the skin, thereby providing a further source of anti-inflammatory action. Cucumber extract may be used at any appropriate concentration, for example, up to 5% or up to 1%. Alternatively, cucumber extract may be used between 0.5% and 5%, or between 0.5% and 4%. In another embodiment, the concentration range is between 2% and 3%, and in another beneficial embodiment the concentration is approximately 2.5%. Other preferred natural extracts have been described hereinbefore.

In particularly advantageous embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises a plurality of natural fruit and plant extract that are selected to provide complementary and synergistic activities. The concentrations of such ingredients are also carefully chosen to provide a desirable natural scent and colour. The following composition of plant extracts has been found to provide a particularly beneficial and complementary range of activities, including a suitable scent: between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 4.0% or between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 0.5% and 4.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); between 0.2% and 2.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); between 0.1% and 2% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); and between 0.025% and 0.5% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass oil).

The cosmetic compositions may also include appropriate carriers/solvents and vehicles to provide the necessary consistency and, more importantly, to dissolve certain active ingredients, as required. Typically, water is the foremost of these components, and may comprise any appropriate proportion of the final composition, for example, between 10% and 80%, preferably between 30% and 60% and optimally between 40% and 50%. In a particularly preferred composition water is present at a concentration of approximately 43% to 44% (e.g. 43.325%). Alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and denatured alcohol (industrial denatured alcohol 99; PQ) may also be included. A preferred alcohol is denatured alcohol, which may provide the addition beneficial properties of a skin coolant (soother) and an astringent (toner). When used, denatured alcohol may be added to a concentration of between 2.5% and 15%, preferably between 5% and 12% and optimally between 7% and 10%. In a particular embodiment, the concentration of denatured alcohol is approximately 9%, to provide the desirable properties of toning and cooling. Other suitable solvent and carriers are glycerin and ethoxydiglycol. In the compositions of the invention, ethoxydiglycol is beneficial employed as a carrier/solvent of salicylic acid, and it may also act as an emulsifier when necessary. When used, its concentration may conveniently be determined on the basis of the amount of salicylic acid also used. For example, a suitable concentration of ethoxydiglycol may be between 3% and 15%, preferably between 5% and 12%, and more preferably between 8% and 12%, for example, approximately 10%.

It may be further advantageous to incorporate into the cosmetic composition of the invention additional sunscreens or sun-blocking agents, to protect against the skin- damaging effects of UVA and/or UVB rays from the sun. Preferably, such sun-blocking agents provide a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to minimise the risks of photodamage and skin cancer. Moreover, it is well recognised that skin damage caused by exposure to the sun results in wrinkling, discoloration, sagging, burning and increased surface roughness, through inflammation, abnormal cell production, thickening of the stratum corneum, and elastin deterioration in the skin {J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., May 2001 , pp 837-846). Preferably, therefore, when used, a sunscreen protects from both UVA and UVB rays. Suitable sun-blocking agents include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane). Such sun-blocking agents can be particularly useful in the compositions of the invention, because following the exfoliating action of the compositions in particular, in the short-term the underlying, newly exposed skin tissue may be more sensitive to UV radiation than the previously exposed stratum corneum cells. The high concentration of anti-oxidants already discussed at least reduces the need to include additional sun-blocking agents (and preservatives) in the compositions.

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more anti-fungal, and/or anti-bacterial, and/or anti-viral agents, for example, to treat superficial infections. Exemplary anti-fungal agent includes amphoteracin B, clotrimazole, econazole, micronazole, terconazole, butoconazole, tioconazole, oxiconazole, sulconazole, ciclopirox olamine, haloprogin, tolnaftate, naftifine, terbinafine, nystatin, and amophotericin B. A preferred anti-fungal agent is terbinafine. In addition, acids such as benzoic acid, salicylic acid, propionic acid and caprylic acid exhibit anti-fungal activity. Thus, a most preferred anti-fungal agent is salicylic acid. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may include salicylic acid and another anti-fungal agent, for example, selected from those listed above.

Anti-bacterial macrolide lactones may also be incorporated into cosmetic compositions to reduce, eliminate or prevent bacterial infection. Typical macrolide lactones are tacrolimus and pimecrolimus.

Suitable anti-viral agents that may be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of the invention include 5-fluorouracil, acyclovir, famciclovir, penciclovir, valacyclovir, and ganciclovir. Other suitable anti-viral agents known to the person skilled in the art may be used alternatively. Where dedicated anti-fungal, anti-bacterial or anti-viral agents are used, they should be used in quantities that are suitable for achieve their intended therapeutic activity, for example, between 0.5% and 10%, depending on the required use.

The compositions of the invention may further comprise any of the active ingredients and appropriate components conventionally included in cosmetic formulations, such components include, for example: for instance, local anaesthetics, corticosteroids, gelling agents, anionic polymers, thickeners, buffering compounds, perfumes, fillers, colourings and silicones. The relative proportions of the different components are suitably those used in conventional cosmetic formulations, however, preferably only components that work in harmony with the active agents of the cosmetic compositions of the invention, and not those that detract from the beneficial effects of the invention, should be selected. As described, it is particularly beneficial when those ingredients used provide more than one advantageous and complementary effect, such as salicylic acid. Preferably, any additional agents, such as colouring, fragrances and so on are obtained from natural sources, such as fruit, plant and nut extracts.

The cosmetic compositions may also comprise naturally derived extracts and components that serve to enhance the advantageous effects of the composition, or which provide alternative or complementary properties to the composition as a whole. Such extracts can include essential oils for aromatherapy and other benefits. Botanical extracts can include extracts in the form of aqueous preparations, alcoholic extracts, oil based extracts or dried powders. Examples of plant based extracts that may be useful are: Aloe vera extract, yeast extracts, Poria cocos extract, Oryza sativa powder, Jojoba seed oil, Acerola fruit extract, Moringa seed extract, and Babassu oil.

The compositions of the invention may be formulated in any desired fashion, such as in the form of a lotion, an ointment, a cream, a gel, a serum, an emulsion or a tonic.

A lotion is typically an aqueous-based, non-viscous liquid, with a relatively high water or alcohol content. Generally lotions may be used for cleaning and/or moisturising the skin or hair. Lotions may beneficially also comprise emulsified oils, fats or waxes. Typically, an ointment is considered to be a single-phase liquid (i.e. not a cream or emulsion). They commonly include ingredients such as lanolin, mineral oils, vegetable oils, and/or animal oils. A lipogel may be produced from an ointment by adding a stabiliser, such as hydrogenated ricinus oil. Creams are widely used for cosmetic compositions and are based on emulsions.

An emulsion is a suspension of one material (the minor component) finely dispersed in another (the major component), but without the formulation of a homogeneous solution. To create an emulsion, two immiscible liquids (e.g. water and oil) are typically mixed at high speed. The process of emulsification is facilitated by the use of emulsifiers. Suitable emulsifiers that can be used in the present invention include, for example, one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols, C₁₄.₂₂ alcohols, alkylpolyglycosides, C_14-20 alkylglucoside, saponifiers, alkyl sulfates, monoalkyl and dialkyl phosphates, alkyl sulphonates, acyl isothionates, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sorbitans, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate or any combinations thereof. Natural emulsifiers may be obtained from nuts, berries and leaves. When used in the present compositions, the emulsifier may be present at a concentration between 1% and 10% of the composition. For embodiments of the invention where the composition is in the form of a cream or lotion, the emulsifier is typically present in a concentration of between 3% and 8%.

The stability of an emulsification depends on a variety of factors, such as the effectiveness and quantity of the emulsifier used, the temperature during and after the emulsification process, and the process of manufacture. In enhance or maintain emulsion stability, oil in water emulsion based compositions of the invention may also include one or more stabilisers. Suitable stabilisers include, for example, alcohols, alkoxylated alcohols, fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters, such as glyceryl stearate, gums, soaps, synthetic polymers, waxes, or any combinations thereof. Particularly suitable emulsion stabilisers include a stearyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate.

There are two common types of emulsions; oil in water (o/w) and water in oil (w/o); and two further types that may alternatively be used; water in oil in water (w/o/w) and oil in water in oil (o/w/o). In o/w emulsions the oil droplets are dispersed in water i.e. the water is the external phase. Since, in use, the aqueous external phase contacts the skin first, these emulsions give a "lighter" and fresher sensation. By contrast, with a w/o emulsion the oily/greasy external phase contacts with the skin first, giving a "richer" more luxurious feel. In addition, evaporation of the water in w/o emulsions is slow, which may provide better moisturising of the outer layers of skin. The w/o/w and o/w/o emulsions are combinations of the common basic emulsions, and may be used when certain of the ingredients are not compatible with each other. Also, w/o/w emulsions tend to be more stable that w/o emulsions, for example. For these reasons, increasingly, the more unusual emulsions are used in the cosmetic industry.

The appearance and feel of a cream (or emulsion) and its effectiveness as a moisturiser and carrier may depend on the type of emulsion, its pH, and the type of oils, fats, alcohols and esters used in its manufacture. All such emulsions can be produced according to standard procedures known to the person skilled in the art. For example, the selection of ingredients may depend on the final purpose and the desired consistency of the product. Generally, particular oils, fats and waxes may be chosen according to their consistency, miscibility with other ingredients, and their function and properties (such as their ability to be absorbed through the skin). Meanwhile, the amount of water used is typically chosen to provide the desired consistency of the final product and to moisturise the skin.

A preferred formulation for the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a tonic. Thus, the invention particularly relates to skin tonics having the above-described properties and benefits. A tonic (in contrast to an emulsion), is typically a homogeneous aqueous phase, comprising water and, advantageously, alcohol. It may have the fluidity and texture of a liquid such as water, for example, to give a fresh, cleansing feeling; and may contain a quantity of alcohol to increase its rate of evaporation from the surface of the skin. The tonic of the invention may be substantially transparent with pale, delicate colouration (e.g. orange, pink etc), as a result of the carefully selected natural fruit extracts.

To achieve the benefits associated with the compositions of the invention a synergistic combination of active agents with complementary activities have been combined. Together, the active agents serve to: gently exfoliate old, damaged and hyperpigmented skin; promote self-renewal of the epidermis and particularly the stratum corneum to achieve a younger looking complexion, and reduce fine lines, wrinkles and skin blemishes; purify the skin and treat and/or reduce acne; calm skin irritation and reduce inflammation; reduce or eliminate uneven skin colouration; protect the skin from damage caused by pollution and sun exposure; moisturise, soften and smooth the skin, and leave is feeling and looking healthy and toned. Moreover, the combination of these carefully selected active ingredients provides a multi-tasking, one-stop skin care product that is easy to use and achieve the desired results. Moreover, the combination of the particularly chosen ingredients provides benefits over prior cosmetics since any skin irritation that may be caused by, for example, by use of chemical exfoliants is immediately reduced or eliminated by the natural anti-inflammatory agents and moisturisers. Moreover, unlike some cosmetic compositions that may actually promote acne by adding and/or trapping grease on the skin surface, the compositions of the invention provide the advantages of a "rich" formulation (in that they moisturise the skin and leave it feeling soft and smooth), but they also prevent and/or reduce acne. The compositions of the invention thus may have improved tolerance over some prior art skin treatments and minimise the risk of skin irritation and allergic reaction. The benefits and improvements to the aesthetic appearance of skin can be manifested in a number of ways, for example, by: improvement in the appearance of skin contours / wrinkles; promotion and/or acceleration of cell turnover; enhancement of exfoliation; enhancement of skin thickness; increase in skin elasticity and/or resiliency; reduction in pore size; increased anti-oxidant activity; increase in cell proliferation and/or multiplication; improvement in skin moisturisation; improvement in skin texture; improvement in skin tone, radiance, clarity and/or tautness; improvement in skin firmness, plumpness, suppleness, and/or softness; improvement in procollagen and/or collagen production; improvement in skin barrier repair and/or function; restoration of skin luster and/or brightness; replenishment of essential nutrients; and increase in skin cell metabolism.

EXAMPLES

The invention is now illustrated by the following non-limiting examples of cosmetic compositions. Each exemplified composition is multi-tasking and comprises the active agents that provide the core activities of the first aspect invention, namely: a suitable carrier and a plurality of active ingredients including: at least one exfoliant; at least one astringent; at least one anti-oxidant; and at least one moisturiser.

Unless otherwise stated, fruit and herbal extracts or juices, perfumes, essential oils, vegetable oils, jojoba products, waxes, exfoliants, fatty alcohols and acids, amines, silicones, emulsifiers, esters, dried herbs and flowers, colours, and specialist additives can be obtained from manufacturers and suppliers known in the art, such as A & E Connock (Hampshire, UK). Alternatively, materials are available from: S. Black Limited (Hertford, UK); Gattefosse (France); Univar (Cheadle, UK); DKSH (London, UK); Adina Cosmetics Ingredients (Tunbridge Wells, UK); Paroxite Ltd (London, UK); and IMCD UK Ltd (Sutton, UK).

The exemplified compositions are suitable for retail; professional use in spa treatments, clinics and salons; and private, personal use.

The following cosmetic compositions are formulated as skin tonics. However, the person skilled in the art will appreciate how the active ingredients of the cosmetic compositions could be formulated for use as a lotion, cream, gel or any other suitable type. The cosmetic formulation can be used at night or during the day. For example, these compositions are suitable as daily face as part of a person's normal daily routine. The high level of anti-oxidants included in the compositions means that the formulations are beneficially used during the day in order to provide additional protection from the effects of the sun. However, the products are not intended to replace a dedicated sun-block when needed.

To use the skin tonics of the invention, typically, a cotton pad is moistened with the composition and swept over the entire face, avoiding the sensitive areas around the eyes. The compositions may, however, be used on any skin surface, with the exception that broken skin and sensitive areas (such as around the eyes) should be avoided. A slight tingling sensation may be felt as the active ingredients work. At first, it may be preferable to use the compositions once a day, at night, for the first week of use; then (provided no ill-effects), twice a day, morning and night, thereafter. It should be noted that the cosmetic compositions may bring impurities to the surface initially.

Example 1

The cosmetic composition of Table 1 may be manufactured by any suitable method. In one process the composition is manufactured by:

(i) dissolving the water-solution components: glycerin and glycolic acid in the water; mixing until a clear solution;

(ii) dissolving the alcohol-soluble components: ethoxydiglycol and salicylic acid, and the fruit/plant extracts (Hamamelis virginiana, Chrysanthemum parthenium, Citrus aurantium dulcis, Punica granatum and Zingiber officinale) in the denatured alcohol; mixing until a clear solution; and

(iii) adding the alcohol-based solution of (ii) to the aqueous solution of (i); mixing until clear.

Table 1

The cosmetic composition described in Table 1 is suitable for removing the unwanted keratinised outer skin layers and reducing visible skin blemishes. Beneficially, the skin cells of the epidermis are encourage to self-renew and thereby improve the health and appearance of the skin. Strong anti-oxidants and moisturisers protect the skin from damage and leave it feeling refreshed and softened. A selection of botanical extracts may provide further benefits including a pleasant fragrance and colour.

A similar composition to that of Table 1 is shown in Table 2. In this composition the concentration of ginger has been increased to 1.0%, to provide a stronger antiinflammatory action.

Table 2

Optionally preservatives may be added (for example, if prolonged storage may be necessary) and additional or alternative botanical extracts may be added to provide extra beneficial properties or different colours and scents. Example 2

The cosmetic composition of Table 3 may be manufactured by any suitable method. In one process the composition is manufactured by:

(i) dissolving the water-solution components: imidazolidinyl urea, glycerin and glycolic acid in the water; mixing until a clear solution; (ii) dissolving the alcohol-soluble components: ethoxydiglycol and salicylic acid; aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate; and the fruit/plant extracts (Hamamelis virginiana, Chrysanthemum parthenium, Citrus aurantium dulcis, Punica granatum and Zingiber officinale) in the denatured alcohol; mixing until a clear solution; and

Table 3

The cosmetic composition described in Table 3 provides similar benefits to the compositions of Tables 1 and 2, but additionally incorporates imidazolidinyl urea as a further preservative (which also provides a moisturising action) and aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa), which provides several beneficial functions, and particularly it is an astringent and an anti-pigmentation agent. A similar composition to that of Table 3 is shown in Table 4. In this composition, as before, the concentration of ginger has been increased to 1.0%, to provide a stronger anti-inflammatory action.

Table 4

Example 3

The cosmetic composition of Table 5 may be manufactured by any suitable method. In one process the composition is manufactured by:

(ii) dissolving the alcohol-soluble components: ethoxydiglycol and salicylic acid; aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate; and the fruit/plant extracts (Hamamelis virginiana, and Zingiber officinale, Cucumis sativus, Citrus aurantium amara, Punica granatum and Chrysanthemum parthenium) in the denatured alcohol; mixing until a clear solution; and

(iii) adding the alcohol-based solution of (ii) to the aqueous solution of (i); mixing until clear. Table 5

The composition of Table 5 provides particular benefits in that the combination of fruit and plant extracts provides synergistic activities, including moisturising and antiinflammatory properties. Furthermore, the variety of plant and fruit extracts selected provides strong anti-oxidant properties that help to protect the skin from sun and pollution damage and its associated premature ageing. In this regard, advantageously, the fruit and plant extract provide anti-oxidants from each of the main chemical categories of anti-oxidant, i.e.; flavonoid, polyphenol, and carotenoid. In addition, the relative proportions of each of the fruit/plant extract selected provides a pleasing fragrance and colour, which can in important for a cosmetic composition for the face. The active ingredients of the composition also help to reduce skin pore size and the visible signs of acne, including facial redness.

A similar composition to that of Table 5 is shown in Table 6, below. In this preferred composition, the concentration of ginger (Zingiber officinale) has been increased to 3.5% to provide a stronger anti-inflammatory effect.

Table 6

It may be desirable to also increase the concentration of salicylic acid to 1.0%, as in the cosmetic composition shown in Table 7, in order to provide a greater exfoliating action, anti-inflammatory action, and anti-acne action.

Table 7

Example 4

The cosmetic composition of Table 8 may be manufactured by any suitable method. In one process the composition is manufactured by:

(i) dissolving the water-solution components: imidazolidinyl urea, glycerin and glycolic acid in the water; mixing until a clear solution; (ii) dissolving the alcohol-soluble components: ethoxydiglycol and salicylic acid; aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate; and the fruit/plant extracts (Hamamelis virginiana, and Zingiber officinale, Cucumis sativus, Citrus aurantium amara, Punica granatum, Chrysanthemum parthenium, Solanum lycopersicum and Cymbopogon schoenanthus) in the denatured alcohol; mixing until a clear solution; and

Table 8

The cosmetic composition of Table 8 is particularly advantageous in that it provides active agents that control sebum production in the skin; helping to reduce pore size and visually improve acne (including blackheads and whiteheads), as well are reducing facial redness/inflammation. The cosmetic composition may also help to prevent and treat ingrowing hairs. Example 5

The cosmetic composition of Table 9 may be manufactured by any suitable method. In one process the composition is manufactured by:

(i) preparing a premix of the water-solution components, such as glycerin and a preservative, if used; mixing until a clear solution;

(ii) preparing a premix of the alcohol-soluble components, such as ethoxydiglycol and salicylic acid, in the denatured alcohol; and mixing in the oil-based plant extracts (such as Punica granatum, Zingiber officinale, and Cymbopogon schoenanthus, when used), until a clear solution; and

(iii) adding the premix of step (ii) to the premix of step (i) under constant agitation;

(iv) adding the water or alcohol-based plant extracts (such Hamamelis virginiana, Citrus aurantium amara or dulcis, Cucumis sativus, Chrysanthemum parthenium, and Solanum lycopersicum, when used), to the mixture of step (iii), sequentially, under constant agitation (ii) to the aqueous solution of (i); mixing until clear.

Table 9

Additional plant extracts may be combined with the above ingredients at any suitable levels, such as up to 5% each and more suitably up to 1% each. The composition of Table 9 provides particular benefits in that the combination of fruit and plant extracts provides synergistic activities, including moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties. The composition also has strong anti-oxidant properties that help to protect the skin from sun and pollution damage and its associated premature ageing. The relative proportions of each of the fruit/plant extracts can be selected to provide any desirable fragrance and colour. The active ingredients of the composition also help to reduce skin pore size and the visible signs of acne, including facial redness.

A similar composition to that of Table 9 is shown in Table 10, below. In this composition, however, the AHA exfoliant activity of glycolic acid has been replaced with a combination of lactic acid and lactobionic acid.

Table 10

In addition to the ingredients listed in Table 10, one or more additional plant extracts may be included, for example, to add desirable anti-oxidant activities and to enhance the aroma and colour. This composition of ingredients is particularly synergistic, for example, by virtue of the multiple activities of the acids that have been combined.

A dedicated anti-acne agent, such as zinc gluconate, may be included in the compositions of any of Tables 1 to 10. A dedicated anti-pigmentation agent may also be included, if desired, for example, niacinamide, at a suitable concentration.

Example 6

The beneficial effects on facial skin of the cosmetic compositions of the invention (Examples 4 and 5) were assessed in a user study.

Subjects were expected to continue with their normal washing and make up routines, but not to use alternative exfoliants, moisturising products or facial treatment products. Subjects reported improvements in skin appearance and feel. For example, after application of the compositions according to the invention, lightening, and smoothing of the grain of the skin are observed, acne and blackheads are visibly reduced or eliminated, and areas of hyperpigmentation are reduced.

The appearance of the skin, and particularly the change in appearance of the skin, may also be assessed / monitored using analytical equipment known to the person skilled in the art. For example, Visioscan measurements of a particular area of the skin, such as a portion of the side of the face, may be taken in a known way. A suitable apparatus is the Visioscan VC 98 (Courage & Khazaka, GmbH). The device uses the SELS (Surface Evaluation of Living Skin) evaluation method developed by Tronnier et a/. (Adv. Exp. Med. Biol., 1999, 455: pp507-516). The parameters that may be measured include, for example, skin roughness (SER), scaling (SESC), smoothness (SESM) and wrinkling (SEW). Suitably, measurements and/or images are taken at separate sites on the face before, before, during and after treatment. The beneficial effects of the compositions of the invention may be manifested by an increase in the parameter SELS Smoothness (SESM) and a decrease in the parameter SELS Wrinkling (SEW).

Although particular embodiments of the invention have been disclosed herein in detail, this has been done by way of example and for the purposes of illustration only. The aforementioned embodiments are not intended to be limiting with respect to the scope of the appended claims, which follow. It is contemplated by the inventors that various substitutions, alterations, and modifications may be made to the invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the claims.

Claims

CLAIMS:

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a suitable carrier and a plurality of active ingredients including: at least one exfoliant; at least one astringent; at least one anti-oxidant; and at least one moisturiser.

2. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 , wherein the at least one exfoliant comprises salicylic acid and glycolic acid.

3. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 , wherein the at least one exfoliant comprises salicylic acid lactic acid and lactobionic acid.

4. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one astringent comprises Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel).

5. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one antioxidant comprises Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew).

6. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which comprises: between 1% and 15% of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA); between 0.1% and 2% of at least one beta-hydroxy acid (BHA); between 0.1% and 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); and between 0.1% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew), wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

7. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one moisturiser comprises glycerin.

8. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one anti-inflammatory agent, preferably wherein the at least one antiinflammatory agent comprises Zingiber officinale (ginger).

9. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 2, which comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

10. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 3, which comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; up to 10% lactic acid; up to 10% lactobionic acid; up to 1% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); up to 1% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); and up to 1.8% salicylic acid; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

11. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one anti-pigmentation agent, preferably wherein the at least one anti- pigmentation agent is selected from aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa) and niacinamide.

12. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one anti-acne agent, preferably wherein the at least one anti-acne agent is selected from salicylic acid, Zingiber officinale (ginger), aluminium chlorohydroxy- allantoinate (alcloxa), and zinc gluconate.

13. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one anti-bacterial agent, preferably wherein the at least one anti-bacterial agent is selected from salicylic acid, Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel) and aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa).

14. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one preservative, preferably wherein the at least one preservative is selected from imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100) and disodium EDTA.

15. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which further comprises at least one fruit and/or plant extract selected from: Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); Citrus aurantium dulcis (orangeflower); Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass).

16. The cosmetic composition of Claim 15, which includes Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber), and preferably further includes Citrus aurantium, Punica granatum extract (pomegranate), Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato), and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass).

17. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 2, which comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); and at least one of a fruit and/or plant extract selected from Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber), Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange), Punica granatum extract (pomegranate), Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato), and Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

18. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 2, which comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 0.5% and 4.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange); between 0.2% and 2.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); between 0.1% and 2% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); and between 0.025% and 0.5% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

19. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 2, which comprises: between 10% and 20% glycerin; up to 10% glycolic acid; up to 1.8% salicylic acid; up to 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); up to 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); up to 5% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); up to 1.8% salicylic acid; up to 5% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

20. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 3, which comprises: between 10% and 20% glycerin; up to 10% lactic acid; up to 10% lactobionic acid; up to 1.8% salicylic acid; up to 5% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); up to 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); up to 5% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); up to 1.8% salicylic acid; up to 5% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

21. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which comprises a carrier and/or solvent mixture comprising water and denatured alcohol, and preferably wherein the carrier further comprises ethoxydiglycol.

22. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which is in the form of a skin tonic, a cream, a lotion, a serum, a face wash, an ointment, a shampoo or a gel.

23. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which is in the form of a skin tonic.

24. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 or Claim 2, which comprises: between 1% and 25% glycerin; between 1% and 10% glycolic acid; between 1% and 6% Hamamelis virginiana extract (Witch Hazel); between 0.1% and 5% Zingiber officinale (ginger); between 0.2% and 3% Chrysanthemum parthenium extract (Feverfew); between 0.1% and 1% salicylic acid; between 0.1% and 2.0% aluminium chlorohydroxy-allantoinate (alcloxa); between 0.05% and 0.5% imidazolidinyl urea (Biopure 100); between 0.5% and 4.0% Cucumis sativus juice (cucumber); between 0.5% and 4.0% Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange);between 0.2% and 2.5% Punica granatum extract (pomegranate); between 0.1% and 2% Solanum lycopersicum juice (tomato); between 0.025% and 0.5% Cymbopogon schoenanthus (lemongrass); between 2.5% and 15% denatured alcohol; between 3% and 15% ethxydiglycol; and water to 100%; wherein percentages are by weight (wt%) of the total composition.

25. The cosmetic composition of any preceding claim, which comprises a sun- protecting agent.

26. A cosmetic composition substantially as hereinbefore described.