SU1531965A1 - Stencil for sleeve - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the apparel industry and improves the manufacturability of the sleeve-armhole unit while improving its performance properties. The sleeve template contains a curved line of the neck, which consists of four sections, two extreme, asymmetrically located about a vertical axis passing through the top of the neck, and two central, arcing, the junction point of which is the top of the neck, the ends of the curvilinear line They are shaped like a curve, identical to the lower sections of the contours of the armhole of the backrest and flange, side sections and the bottom line, which is the width of the sleeve. One of the central sections has the shape of a curve, identical to the line of the upper part of the shelf in the mirror image, the other central section has the shape of a curve identical to the line of the upper section of the backrest contour in the mirror image, the ratio of the height of the arm piece to the line that connects the top point side slice lines, is determined by the formula H / L = COSΑ, where H is the height of the border

L is the length of the segment connecting the point of the top of the okat and the highest point of the line of the lateral cut.

angle α = 5 - 30 °. 5 ill., 1 tab.

Description

one

(21) A3382AO / 31-12

(22) 10/30/87

(46) 12/30/89/89. Number 48

(71) Moscow Technoplastic Institute of Light Industry and Moscow Production Sewing Association Bolshevichka

(72) FU. Nigmatova, F ,. V. Kobl Kova, B.S. Sakulin and A.I. Martynova

(53) 687.021 (088.8)

(56) USSR author's certificate

No. 1426529, cl. A 41 N 3/00, 09.22.87.

(54) 1THE SLEEVE CHARGE

(57) The invention relates to the sewing industry and allows improving the manufacturability of the sleeve-hole assembly.

while improving performance properties. 1 The sleeve pattern contains a curvilinear line: a carbonate, consisting of four sections along the length: two extreme, asymmetrically located along the vertical axis, a passage 1 hour through the top of the okat.

The invention relates to the apparel industry, in particular, to low sleeved sleeve templates for cutting industrial, household and special clothing.

The purpose of the invention is to improve the manufacturability of the sleeve-armhole unit while simultaneously filling up operational properties.

On league. prepped ishblon sleeves; on Lig.2 - 5 building a template sleeve.

and two central, arcing, whose conjugation point is the top of the neck, the extreme sections of the curved line of the neck have the shape of a curve that is identical to the lower sections of the contours of the back of the armhole and the shelf, the side sections and the bottom line, which is the line of the sleeve. One of the central sections has the shape of a curve, identical to the line of the upper part of the shelf in the mirror image, the other central section has the shape of a curve, identical to the line of the upper section of the backrest contour in the mirror image, the ratio of the height of the border to the point of the upper edge the side slice lines, defined by the formula --- cos о /,, where h is the height of the neck; 1 - the length of the section connecting the point of the top of the okat and the highest point

(L

side slice lines, angle 30. 5 ill. J1 table.

o (5) The sleeve pattern (Fig. 1) consists of the upper part 1, which is the curved line of the neck, the side sections 2 and the lower part 3. Moreover, the curvilinear line of the okat consists of four pieces of matching parts; two lower 4 and 5 shelves and the backs — and two central 6 and 7 with a common apex defining the height of the neck 8 — while the lower portions of the neck are simultaneously the lower sections of the contour of the armhole around the flange

with so

O5 SP

315

- KIDNEYS and backs, the central area is a mirror image of the upper sections of the armhole of the ledge and backrest.

The angle of dilution is about 5-30 °.

1 The pattern of the sleeve is applicable only to narrow deep, including slick, armholes with a pyrene not exceeding the size of the front-back diameter of the arm. The curvilinear line of the neck represents the mirror-shaped armhole of the shelf and back, and the position of the top of the neck and the width of the sleeve, which is the distance between the extreme lateral points of the lower portions of the armhole of the shelf and back, depends on the angle of dilution of the armhole of the backrest and shelf, em 5-zp °.

Q

five

0

The range of angles is set to.,, IK tate analysis of industrial companies: ..,. backs, slings and sleeves with an i .. -bump, pyrina armhole, not exceeding the size of the front-back diameter of the arm, including the slit-like opening, and with the width of the sleeve providing freedom of fit to the girth of the shoulder not less than 15 cm; and also according to the results of experimental studies of the influence of factors on the value of the angle oi. In particular, the dependence of the angle о / on the parameters of the armhole and the sleeve was studied: widths, lengths, and height of the armhole, pgarinas, and the height of the sleeve okat. The research results showed that the angle c / is proportional to the height of the cuff and the width of the sleeve and does not depend on the parameters npoi wbi.

Chr, cm 46. 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

55 56 57

B, cm 17 16 15.3 14.7 13.8 13 12 10.2 9.4 8.0 5.0 2.4 a, hail 37 36 .J 31 29 27 25 22 19 16.5 12 5

Table R shows the design parameters of the sleeves designed for the same armhole (14 g, p 12.4 cm) for size 170-300-88. Dt (this proyz rukan sufficiently wide- (pass on the free fit

P

c; fS

g is equal to 16 cm with a characteristic of 33

since g

etgm Fil-iCO i OH reversal a 1 e, e

As a result, e lrs) GE of the experimental designs of men's jackets made using the proposed G1 template under industrial conditions, it was established that) the size of the figure of 1p4 | -, co - - ni. stpch-et sleeves with ay - hundredth of the okat P-1) cm and degree yostts ekpluatazip rukaza zavnsk; - from the ratio (11 yuan Bms:; 1.1 ok-31 a and sleeve width, i.e. from the values of y; pa c /: che-m n1gke okat and peer rukan, the higher the ergonomic displays of the riMiM design. Considering that the table shows the data of the construction with the width of the prog {we from the range under consideration, in order to achieve high performance indicators, it is advisable to limit the height of the waist to 1L-15 cm, which corresponds to

The angle is d 30

0

five

0

five

To obtain a sleeve pattern, a preliminary one is needed: an elliptical display of the shoulder points P and P, the tablons of the back and the shelf (fig. 2), since it allows you to convert the curve of the armhole into the designed okat line, the position p. Okat - point B - finds ;;: i;, oBopO that of the templates of the backrest to the shelf, i.e., the lt of the joint venture, and Orij, after which the okat and the bottom of the sleeve are formed.

Technologically, this is achieved by simply bending the details of the spindle and shelf in the area of the top:. parts of the armhole with the formation of folds from the cut points of the progt at the level of the middle of its depth to the shoulder cut, as a result, the transformed contours of the match and the shelf are received (arcs OK, P and OK.), and the fold lines are equal to the distance from the shoulder points P , and From and Rvrshin side slices. In this case, we receive the contour npOF with the shape of the anapogical form of the neck of the sleeve. Thus, the telescoping technique of mirror imaging of the shoulder points P, and P. makes it possible to determine the top of the sleeve and the width of the sleeve.

51531965

FIG. 2 and 3 tons are depicted schemes of the point H,

the structure of the sleeve pattern on the outcome- Hoff proymg; in fig. 4 and 5 - Scheme of measurement of the pyrins of the sleeve frame.

Example 1. To build a sleeve template, initially build an original armhole template. It can be copied from the product design drawing or from the main parts of the product without seam allowances. Points P, ;; P is the position of the humeral points, the point O is the vergina of the lateral cut of the back and the flange (hr.2). Carrying out the tangent to the armhole line of the back and the shelf at an equal distance from the humeral points and the tops of the side cuts, get the fold lines of the back and the shelf, to and to. - the points are perpendicular to the horizontal line H, the points H and H are obtained. From the point Hj downwardly, they lay 0.5 cm down and find the point Hj. From the point H. they lay 0.5 cm up vertically, the point H is found, the points H, H, -, H, H, and Hj are connected smoothly.

10 line, getting the contour of the bottom of the sleeve. Point H is connected to point O, and point H is connected with point O (Fig. |).

EXAMPLE 2 Analogous to Example 1, but angle o / 15.

15 (Lig.4).

Froze Carried out as in Example 1, but the angle is o (5 ° (Lg.5).

Varying the values of the fragrance “/ interstage of tangents with the progtom. Warehouse - On the bottom of the base line and the line, waving the back and the shell in the area of the top-connecting point of the base side of the armoring area of the armhole tangentially - with the top side, makes it possible to obtain the bending lines. Mirror images of the sleeves of various widths give direct arches to the armholes, and, based on the armhole template, without the Extreme points of the arcs, and OK, P soyo-25 using any baseline are biased with OP and PP rays. The wire of the sleeves, which improves the ergo-from the point O, the horizontal of the base, the logical indicators of the finished clothing and the inclination of U1 at an angle of “5-30.d ,, dynamically and expands the area — Combine the top of the side cut when applying the sleeve pattern when splitting points - point O with the horizontal OS-30. Cutting out the various types of clothing, by applying the dashboard at the point 0. Turn the outerwear, dress, and knit fabric- counter clockwise until 1 angle 5-30 ° is formed between the horizontal basis and OP beam around point 0. Intersection point

35

ngh products. All of this in general expands the technological capabilities of the design of the sleeve pattern in the finished garment, and also allows for a reduction in the consumption of fabric due to the rational shape of the sleeve pattern.

the OP beam with an inclined line — the top of the neck of the sleeve B. B. Combine the shoulder point of the prevailing back contour — point P, —with the top of the neck and B and the vertex of the side cut of the back — the point O — from the horizon. On the basis of the contours of the armhole of the back and the shelves, make up the curved line of the neck of the sleeve. The distance between the extreme points of the vertices of the side spine of the back and the flange 0 and O - / chirin sleeves (fig.Z).

A vertical downward line is laid out from a point to which the length of the sleeve is laid and the point H is found, the point A. AO is placed at the point of intersection of the vertical with the horizontal, the width of the back half, LO - Igirin p35

ngh products. All of this in general expands the technological capabilities of the design of the sleeve pattern in the finished garment, and also allows for a reduction in the consumption of fabric due to the rational shape of the sleeve pattern.

Claims (2)

JO Invention Formula 1 A sleeve pattern containing a curvilinear line of the okat along the length of four sections, two edges 45 of them, asymmetrically located along the vertical axis passing through the top of the okat, and two central arcing, whose conjugation point is the top 50 okata, the extreme sections of the curved line of the okata have the shape of a curve, identical to the lower sections of the contours of the back and the backs and the shelves, side sections and the bottom line, which is the width of the fleece halves. Through the 55 found kavz, characterized in that, the point H is horizontal. Then, in order to increase the technology from point H and right to the horizon of the sleeve-arm unit, with single-monoliths, half of the width is delayed by time and improvement of the operating sleeves I draw and, accordingly, the properties, and H From points K and R lower the perpendicular to the horizontal line H, get the points H and H. From the point H j downwards, they lay 0.5 cm down and find the point Hj. From the point H. they lay 0.5 cm up vertically, the point H is found, the points H, H, -, H, H, and Hj are connected smoothly. line, getting the contour of the bottom of the sleeves. Point H is connected to point O, and point H is connected with point O (Fig. |). PRI me R 2. Carry out ana-LOG1 EXACTLY example 1, but angle o / 15 (Lig.4). Froze Carried out as in Example 1, but the angle is o (5 ° (Lg.5). Varying the fragile values "/ between the base line of the okat and the line connecting the base point of the okat to the top of the okat, allows to obtain sleeves of various widths directly based on the armhole template without using any basic sleeve pattern, which improves ergonomic indicators of the finished clothing, in the dynamics and expands the area - the use of template sleeves in the opening of loose types of clothing, for example, outerwear, dress, knitwear ngh products. All of this in general expands the technological capabilities of the design of the sleeve pattern in the finished garment, and also allows for a reduction in the consumption of fabric due to the rational shape of the sleeve pattern. JO Invention Formula 1 A sleeve pattern containing a curved line of the okat, consisting of four sections along the length, 45 edges, asymmetrically located along the vertical axis passing through the top of the okat, and two central arcing, whose conjugation point is the top 50 okata, the extreme sections of the curved line of the okata have the shape of a curve, identical to the lower sections of the contours of the armhole of the back and the shelf, side sections The curve has the same shape as the upper portion of the shelf in the mirror image, while the other central portion has the shape of a curve identical to the upper portion of the back contour in the mirror image, and the ratio of the height of the sleeve dash to the line connecting the top of the dorsum and the highest point side lines cfr by the formula for, opred. i yr cosel h - height okat; 1 is the length of the segment connecting the point of the top of the okat and the height of the line of the lateral cut, with 0 5–30 °. ; 6 X g, 2 Pz FIG. FI.5 0.0