RU2491911C1 - Moisturising cream with solid lipid nanoparticles - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology, and represents a moisturising cream containing a gelling ingredient, the moisturising ingredient glycerol, cyclomethicone DC 345, a preserving agent, a flavour, a biologically active additive and water, differing by the fact that the biologically active additive is a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles of the size of 50 to 300 nm containing purified water, carnauba wax, the UV-filter benzophenoid-3, decylglucoside, blackcurrant oil, and the dispersion stabiliser penthylene glycol, while the base contains propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants: wild camomile (Matricaria chamomiila), common St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) and bur beggar-ticks (Bidens tripartitus) in ratio 1:1:1, apricot kernel oil, the structure forming agent COVACRYL MV 60, the preserving agent Sharomix MCI. the emulsifier Solubilisant LRI and purified water with the ingredients of the compositions in specified proportions wt %.

EFFECT: invention provides intense skin moistening and nutrition, as well as improves skin elasticity.

3 ex, 2 tbl

Description

The invention relates to medicine, in particular to cosmetology. Moisturizer is designed to enhance hydration, nourishment and increase the elasticity of sensitive skin with the help of solid lipid nanoparticles, which include moisturizing and biologically active substances (BAS).

Known gel for skin care for the face (RF Patent No. 2142269, publ. 10.12.1999), containing an extract of antler reindeer, carbomers or Sacap, or Sacap-R, 2,2 ′, 2 ′ ′ - nitrilotriethanol, or sodium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia, glycerin or propylene glycol, bronitrol or bronopol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, fragrance and water. The gel has a rejuvenating, moisturizing property, nourishes and increases its elasticity.

However, the above gel contains bronopol, a preservative that, under certain conditions, is able to interact with the gel components to form toxic nitrogen oxides, which is why leading cosmetic companies have refused to use it.

Cosmetic cream is also known (RF Patent No. 2298400, publ. May 10, 2007), intended for effective care of normal and combination skin. The cream contains a mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, triethanolamine, cetearyl alcohol, mink fat, olive oil, lanolin, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, carbon dioxide extract of chamomile, glycerin, perfume, hydrocarbon propellant, water. The cream allows you to achieve a complex effect on the skin, including light application of the cream, good absorbency, giving the skin a silky feel, moisturizing and nourishing the skin, enhancing the skin's natural protective functions, and preventing inflammatory processes.

The disadvantage of the cream is the presence of lanolin, a well-known potential allergen, which also increases the stickiness of the formulation and impairs the supply of oxygen to the skin.

Closest to the claimed invention is a moisturizing serum for face "VITA" (RF Patent 2376982, publ. 12/27/2009) containing a gel-forming component, a moisturizing component glycerin, propylene glycol, preservative, perfume, biologically active additive and water, as a biologically active additive a suspension of niosomes up to 100 nm in size with pig placenta stem cell extract included, hyaluronic acid, avocado oil, concentrate (Actiflow ^TM ) containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP. The base used is an acrylate emulsion copolymer (Salcare SC80), an organosilicon elastomer (DC 9045), and meltwater from the glaciers of the mountains of the North Caucasus.

However, the VITA moisturizing face serum does not have a pronounced prolonged moisturizing effect due to the absence of components (particles) preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin surface.

The purpose of the invention is moisturizing, nourishing and increasing the elasticity of the skin using solid lipid nanoparticles, which include moisturizing and biologically active substances (BAS).

In relation to the prototype in terms of composition, the inventive moisturizer (hereinafter referred to as the means) has the following distinctive features.

The tool contains a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm. The dispersion consists of purified water 37% (of the dispersion volume) and the solid lipid nanoparticles themselves, consisting of Carnauba wax - Carnauba Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba) wax (20% of the dispersion volume); an organic UV filter Benzophenone is introduced to protect against UV radiation -3 Benzophenone-3 active in the ranges “A” and “B” of ultraviolet radiation (10% of the dispersion volume), decyl glucoside - Decyl Glucoside (10% of the dispersion volume), blackcurrant oil (20% of the dispersion volume), containing skin-friendly fatty acids (palmitic, stearic, oleic and linolenic) and one hundred ilizator dispersion - pentylene - Pentylene Glycol (3% dispersion by volume).

The recommended dose of the introduction of a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles by the authors is from 3 to 7% of the volume of moisturizer, to achieve a prolonged effect of moisturizing the skin.

A method of obtaining a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm consists in mixing the above components at a temperature above the melting point of carnauba wax - 85 ° C and passing the resulting hot dispersion through a high-pressure homogenizer - APV LAB 2000 at a pressure of 1800-2000 bar. As a result of homogenization and subsequent cooling to room temperature at 25 ° C, solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm are formed inside the dispersion.

Further, when applying an agent containing solid lipid nanoparticles to the skin surface, an occlusive layer is created through which oxygen passes, but water is retained, i.e. the skin “breathes” and does not create a feeling of discomfort.

In conventional means, particles of emulsions and dispersions have sizes from 2 to 100 μm, which cannot create such an occlusive layer.

The product has a light and stable consistency in the form of mousse, due to the content of the hypoallergenic structure-forming agent COVACRYL MV 60. A distinctive feature of this structure-forming agent is its ability to form a light texture in water without neutralization with alkaline components (for example, triethanolamine), which gives it hypoallergenic properties.

To ensure the maximum moisturizing effect, apricot stone oil is introduced into the product, rich in unsaturated fatty acids (oleic and linoleic) of plant origin that are not synthesized in animals and humans. Unsaturated fatty acids increase the fluidity of the lipid layers of the epidermis due to the extraction of intercellular lipids. Apricot kernel oil is easily distributed and absorbed, restores the epidermal barrier, and is used in moisturizing and nourishing compositions as an effective moisturizing component. Due to the content of unsaponifiable components, it well restores the structure of the epidermis and improves the water-holding properties of the skin.

To enhance the penetration of biologically active substances and moisturize the skin, glycerin is included in the formulation of the product. The physico-chemical properties of glycerol contribute to the extraction of lipids of the stratum corneum, which weakens its protective properties and facilitates the passage of biologically active substances through the intercellular spaces. Small concentrations of glycerin do not dry the skin and at the same time bind the necessary amount of moisture, holding it in the upper layers of the skin. Glycerin has a higher molecular weight and viscosity, therefore it is slowly absorbed into the skin, but thereby reduces transepidermal water loss from the skin surface.

Propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants are used as moisturizing components that have anti-inflammatory effects: pharmacy chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum), and a three-part sequence (Bidens tripartitus) in a 1: 1: 1 ratio.

Propylene glycol extracts have several advantages compared to alcohol and water-salt: propylene glycol is a “fatty” alcohol, it does not dry the skin like ethanol, but, on the contrary, retains moisture in the skin, promotes thinning of intercellular lipids for better penetration of biologically active substances through the stratum corneum, is stored for a long time and is easily introduced into the composition of the product; unlike water-salt extraction, propylene glycol extracts lipid components from plant materials, which have an affinity for skin lipids.

The process of manufacturing a propylene glycol extract from the corresponding plant consists in insisting the dried plant in propylene glycol for at least 5 days for the best extraction of biologically active components, and subsequent filtration from its residues.

Silicone oil - cyclomethicone DC 345 - Cyclomethicone is added to the product. Cyclomethicone is a mixture of cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes with a low viscosity of 0.65 centistokes, which ensures hydration and increased fluidity on the surface of the skin and, as a result, a decrease in the consumption of the product.

To obtain an emulsion of oils and water-soluble components, the Solubilisant LRI emulsifier - PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used.

The use of the water-soluble preservative Sharomix MCI - 5-cloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolinone and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolinone allows better protection than the use of a fat-soluble preservative (for example, parabens) due to the high content of the aqueous phase and the ability of microorganisms to reproduce precisely in aqueous phase and at the interface.

To give a light pleasant aroma, a fragrance is introduced into the product. The possibility of carrying out the claimed invention is confirmed by examples of specific performance.

Example 1

The product contains as a biologically active additive 3.0% (by weight of the product) of a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm.

The dispersion consists of purified water 37% (of the dispersion volume) and the solid lipid nanoparticles themselves, consisting of Carnauba wax - Copernicia Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba) wax (20% of the dispersion volume), an organic UV filter Benzophenone is introduced to protect against UV radiation -3 Benzophenone-3 active in the ranges “A” and “B” of ultraviolet radiation (10% of the dispersion volume), decyl glucoside - Decyl Glucoside (10% of the dispersion volume), blackcurrant oil (20% of the dispersion volume), containing skin-friendly fatty acids (palmitic, stearic, oleic and linolenic) and one hundred dispersion bilizer - pentylene glycol - Pentylene Glycol (3% of the dispersion volume).

The basis includes propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants: chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and a series of trifid (Bidens tripartitus) in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 (10.0 wt.%), Apricot kernel oil (15, 0 wt.%), Glycerin (5.0 wt.%), Structural agent COVACRYL MV 60 (2.0 wt.%), Cyclomethicone DC 345 (10.0 wt.%), Preservative Sharomix MCI (0.005 wt.%) , perfume (0.5 wt.%), Solubilisant LRI emulsifier (4.0 wt.%) and purified water (up to 100 wt.%).

The phases of preparation and formulation of the drug are presented in table 1.

Phase A is prepared at room temperature by intensive mechanical mixing of the components in the mixer. Phase B, containing a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm., Is manufactured separately and introduced at room temperature 25 ° C into phase A with vigorous stirring. As a result of intensive mixing, a moisturizer is formed.

The prepared product was applied to previously cleansed skin 1 time a day before bedtime. After 10 days of use, the degree of keratinization and moisture were evaluated. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 19% and the moisture content of 15% with a solid lipid nanoparticle content of 3%.

Example 2. It is carried out analogously to example 1, only a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles is introduced in an amount of 5%. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 49% and the degree of moisture was 51% of the initial values.

Example 3. It is carried out analogously to example 1, only a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles is introduced in an amount of 7%. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 50% and the degree of moisture was 54% of the initial values.

Thus, example 2 is optimal for moisturizing the skin, where a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles is introduced in an amount of 5%. A further increase in the percentage of solid lipid nanoparticles did not lead to a significant increase in the degree of keratinization and hydration of the skin.

As a result of the studies, the optimal percentage of solid lipid nanoparticles in the agent was selected, which allows to obtain the maximum increase in the degree of keratinization and skin hydration (table 2).

The developed moisturizer has undergone physical, chemical and clinical laboratory tests at the Federal State Health Institution “Center for Hygiene and Epidemiology in the Stavropol Territory” of Rospotrebnadzor. The results of the studies testified to the effectiveness and safety of the use of the drug.

Thus, the claimed moisturizer with solid lipid nanoparticles intensely moisturizes, nourishes and improves skin elasticity.

Information sources

1. Patent of the Russian Federation No. 2142269 dated 12/10/1999.

2. RF patent No. 2298400 dated 05/10/2007.

3. RF patent 2376982 from 12/27/2009

4. Samuylova L.V., Puchkova T.V. Cosmetic chemistry, M .: Publishing house. “School of Cosmetic Chemists”, 2005. - 336 p.

Table 1 Phases of preparation and formulation of a moisturizer with solid lipid nanoparticles No. p / p Name of ingredient Content in% (by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Phase A one Purified water up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 2 Preservative Sharomix MCI 0.005 0.005 0.005 3 Structuring agent COVACRYL MV 60 2.0 2.0 2.0 four Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 5 Propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants: chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and a series of trifid (Bidens tripartitus) in a ratio of 1: 1: 1 10.0 10.0 10.0 6 Cyclomethicone (DC 345) 10.0 10.0 10.0 7 Apricot kernel oil 15.0 15.0 15.0 8 Glycerol 5,0 5,0 5,0 9 Emulsifier Solubilisant LRI 4.0 4.0 4.0 Phase B 10 Dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm: purified water (37% of the dispersion volume), Carnauba wax - (20% of the dispersion volume), Benzophenone-3 UV filter (10% of the dispersion volume), decyl glucoside - Decyl Glucoside (10% of the dispersion), blackcurrant oil (20% of the dispersion), dispersion stabilizer - pentylene glycol - Pentylene Glycol (3% of the dispersion). 3.0 5,0 7.0

table 2 The dependence of the degree of keratinization and skin hydration on the dispersion content of solid lipid nanoparticles when applying moisturizer for 10 days Examples one 2 3 Dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm: purified water (37% of the dispersion volume), Carnauba wax - (20% of the dispersion volume), Benzophenone-3 UV filter (10% of the dispersion volume), decyl glucoside - Decyl Glucoside (10% of the dispersion volume), blackcurrant oil (20% of the dispersion volume), dispersion stabilizer - pentylene glycol - Pentylene Glycol (3% of the dispersion volume), (mass% gel application) 3 5 7 Humidity (% increase from baseline) fifteen 51 54 The degree of keratinization (% increase from the initial value) 19 49 fifty

Claims (1)

Moisturizer containing a gel-forming component, a moisturizing component glycerin, cyclomethicone DC 345, preservative, perfume, dietary supplement and water, characterized in that it contains as a biologically active additive a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles ranging in size from 50 to 300 nm with the purified water, carnauba wax, a benzophenone-3 UV filter, decyl glucoside, blackcurrant oil, a dispersion stabilizer - pentylene glycol, and propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants are the basis: rum pharmacy ash (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and a series of trifid (Bidens tripartitus) in a ratio of 1: 1: 1, apricot kernel oil, structure-forming agent COVACRYL MV 60, preservative Sharomix MCI, the following emulsifier and Solubant purified Solubilis and the content of components, wt.%:
dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles size from 50 to 300 nm: purified water (37% of the dispersion volume), carnauba wax (20% of the volume of dispersion), Benzophenone-3 UV filter (10% of the dispersion volume), decyl glucoside (10% of the dispersion volume), blackcurrant oil (20% of the dispersion volume), dispersion stabilizer - pentylene glycol (3% of the dispersion volume) 5,0 propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants: pharmacy chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and a series of tripartite (Bidens tripartitus) in the ratio 1: 1: 1 10.0 cyclomethicone DC 345 10.0 apricot kernel oil 15.0 glycerol 5,0 emulsifier Solubilisant LRI 4.0 structural agent COVACRYL MV 60 2.0 perfume 0.5 Sharomix MCI Preservative 0.005 purified water up to 100.0