RU2376982C2 - Moistening serum for face "vita" - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention is related to medicine, in particular to cosmetology, and represents moistening serum for face, containing gel-forming component, moistening component glycerin, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, preservative, odorant, biologically active additive and water, differing by the fact that it comprises as biologically active additive suspension of niosomes with size of up to 100 nm with included extract of stem cells of pig placenta, hyaluronic acid, avocado oil, concentrate (Actiflow™), containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, cyclomethicone DC 345, and the base includes acrylate emulsion of copolymer (Salcare SC80), organosilicic elastomer (DC 9045), and thawing water from glaciers of North Caucasus mountains, at a certain ratio of components in wt %.

EFFECT: invention provides for intense moistening, nutrition and improved elasticity of face skin with the help of biologically active substances (BAS), included into transdermal carrier-niosomes.

3 ex, 2 tbl

Description

The invention relates to medicine, in particular to cosmetology. “VITA” Moisturizing Face Serum is intended for enhanced hydration, nutrition and elasticity of the skin of the face with the help of biologically active substances (BAS) included in transdermal transporters-niosomes.

A well-known gel for facial skin care (RF Patent No. 2142269, publ. 10.12.1999), containing an extract from antler reindeer, carbomer or Sacap, or Sacap-R, 2,2 ', 2' '- nitrilotriethanol, or sodium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia, glycerin or propylene glycol, bronitrol or bronopol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, fragrance and water. The gel has a rejuvenating, moisturizing property, nourishes and increases elasticity.

However, the above gel contains a bronopol preservative, which under certain conditions is able to interact with the gel components to form toxic nitrogen oxides, which is why leading cosmetic companies have refused to use it.

Cosmetic cream is also known (RF Patent No. 2298400, publ. May 10, 2007), intended for effective care of normal and combination skin. The cream contains a mixture of ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, triethanolamine, cetearyl alcohol, mink fat, olive oil, lanolin, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, carbon dioxide extract of chamomile, glycerin, perfume, hydrocarbon propellant, water. The cream allows you to achieve a complex effect on the skin, including light application of the cream, good absorbency, giving the skin a silky feel, moisturizing and nourishing the skin, enhancing the skin's natural protective functions, and preventing inflammatory processes.

The disadvantage of the cream is the presence of lanolin, a well-known potential allergen, which also increases the stickiness of the formulation and impairs the supply of oxygen to the skin.

Closest to the claimed invention is a cosmetic gel for facial skin care (RF Patent 2244540, publ. 20.01.2005) containing a gel-forming component, a moisturizing component-glycerin or propylene glycol, preservative, perfume, biologically active additive and water, while as biologically active additives - fullerenes or shungite water and yarrow extract and additionally contains air conditioning - dimethicone, softener - Trilon B, moisturizing component - hyaluronic acid, the components are taken in a certain amount Hinnom content. The gel has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and antioxidant effects while oxygenating the skin.

However, the gel does not possess sufficient transdermal activity due to the lack of transdermal transporters of biologically active substances and does not contain sufficiently effective components for moisturizing the skin of the face.

The purpose of the invention is the hydration, nutrition and elasticity of the skin of the face with biologically active substances included in the transdermal transporters-niosomes.

Niosomes are vesicles consisting of a shell in the form of a water-insoluble double layer of a nonionic emulsifier (surfactant), which is a group of dimethicone copolyols substances that are esters of a polyethylene glycol and a polydimethylsiloxane base and a biologically active substance enclosed inside a capsule. Thus, dimethicone copolyols are a hybrid of silicon and carbon. Unlike liposomes made on the basis of phospholipids, niosomes have a number of advantages for the delivery of biologically active substances. The presence of the Si-O covalent bond in the hydrophobic part of the emulsifier polydimethylsiloxane base molecule, which has great elasticity and reactivity, allows the targeted delivery of a wide range of biologically active substances using reactive sites and their targeted release from the vesicles. These properties allow the use of niosomes for interstitial delivery of biologically active substances (antibiotics, vitamins, plant and animal extracts).

This goal is achieved due to the fact that the biologically active substances included in the niosome vesicles are able to penetrate the deepest layers of the skin, into the cells of the epidermis and dermis.

In relation to the prototype in terms of composition, the claimed moisturizing face serum "VITA" (hereinafter referred to as serum) has the following distinctive features.

The serum has a less viscous and stable consistency due to the low content of the builder and the presence of organosilicon compounds (cyclopentasiloxanes and elastomer), which allows the serum to spread better on the skin surface and moisturize it more efficiently.

The use of niosomes as transdermal carriers of biologically active substances inside the skin cells, which has several advantages: biological compatibility with the human body, the absence of allergic, toxic, pyrogenic effects of transported components, the prolonged action of substances introduced into the skin cells, and the decrease in the amount of preparations introduced into skin cells during maintaining the effect of their exposure, the possibility of including several biologically active substances in the membrane and the internal contents of niosomes.

Obviously, the main obstacle to any foreign substance is the stratum corneum (Stratum Corneum), which consists of horny scales tightly stacked on top of one another and glued together with a lipid layer. Horny scales are filled with hard keratin and practically do not contain water, so it is impossible to pass through them directly. To penetrate deep into the skin, you have to use workarounds, which are the intercellular spaces and excretory ducts of the skin glands. For the transfer of active substances into the epidermis, transdermal carriers are used - niosomes, which are complexes of amphiphilic PEG-12 Dimethicone molecules (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone) surrounding the active components. Paving their way through the epidermal barrier, carriers are pulling biologically active substances. All biologically active substances are included in niosomes.

To enhance the penetration of niosomes and moisturize the skin, glycerin and propylene glycol are included in the serum formulation. The physicochemical properties of glycerol and propylene glycol contribute to the extraction of lipids of the stratum corneum, which weakens its protective properties and facilitates the passage of nanovesicles through the intercellular spaces. Small concentrations of solvents do not dry the skin and at the same time bind the necessary amount of moisture, keeping it in the upper layers of the skin. Glycerin has a higher molecular weight and viscosity, so it is slowly absorbed into the skin, but thereby reduces transepidermal water loss from the skin surface.

As a biologically active substance, pig placenta stem cell extract, hyaluronic acid, avocado oil, Actiflow ™ concentrate from SILAB® laboratory (France) containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP are used.

Studies of stem placenta extract of pig placenta have led to the conclusion that there are valuable biologically active components of growth factors, cytokines, cytamines and other substances that contribute to the regeneration of skin cells. The extract helps to activate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans in the dermis, which include hyaluronic acid. Using the extract as the main biologically active substance in a cosmetic product will enhance its effect: accelerate the renewal of skin cells due to cell division of collagen, elastin and keratinocytes. The action of the stem cell extract is based not on the external effect on the skin cells, but on the effect on the signaling mechanisms of intercellular interaction.

In the process of skin aging and the effects of technogenic factors, the amount of hyaluronic acid decreases and water leaves the skin, therefore, to enhance the moisturizing effect, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is introduced into the serum formulation. The hygroscopic properties of hyaluronic acid are explained by the structure of its molecule: one molecule of hyaluronic acid is able to bind about a hundred water molecules. The elasticity of the dermis depends on the content of bound water in glycosaminoglycans, therefore the hyaluronic acid included in the niosomes penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and supplies it with the necessary moisture. Hyaluronic acid is a component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

To ensure the maximum moisturizing effect, avocado oil containing unsaturated vegetable fatty acids not synthesized in animals and humans has been introduced into the serum. Avocado oil has excellent regenerative properties, complementing the action of stem cell extract. Due to unsaponifiable components and a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, it restores the structure of the epidermis well and improves the moisture-holding properties of the skin. Unsaturated fatty acids increase the fluidity of the lipid layers of the epidermis due to the extraction of intercellular lipids.

The action of Actiflow ™ concentrate, rich in vitamin PP, is aimed at improving the microcirculation of blood in the capillaries, as a result of which the skin is supplied with the necessary substances very quickly.

Currently, special attention is paid to tactile sensations when applying a cosmetic product to the skin surface; therefore, to add a feeling of silky skin to the serum gel, DC 9045 silicone elastomer (INCI: Dimethicone Crosspolymer) was introduced. The use of silicone elastomer reduces the stickiness of the serum (glycerol) formulation, improves the aesthetics of cyclomethicone and absorbs excess sebum on the skin surface. The elastomer is able to form a thin film on the skin that is able to pass oxygen and not pass water, creating an “occlusive” effect, leading to hydration of the stratum corneum and improved penetration of niosomes containing large biologically active substances.

To improve the spreadability of serum on the surface of the skin and maintain the moisturizing effect, silicone oil is introduced - cyclomethicone DC 345 (INCI: Cyclomethicone). Cyclomethicone is a mixture of cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes with a low heat of vaporization from the skin surface, which guarantees the absence of a “cooling” effect when using serum at low temperatures.

As a basis for serum, an aqueous anionic acrylate emulsion of the Salcare SC80 copolymer (INCI: Steareth-l0Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer), which is a carbomer, was selected. Salcare SC80 is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic components. Typically, carbomers are in the form of a white fine powder (Carbopol®, Cosmedia SP®), which must first be subjected to the stage of swelling and dispersion. The process of preparing carbomer for neutralization usually takes several hours, heating to 40-45 ° C speeds up the swelling process. Salcare SC80 is convenient to use due to its emulsified form, which allows you to quickly get a clear gel. The use of Salcare SC80 as a builder allows one to obtain a less viscous product (serum) with respect to the gel with a more uniform consistency at low concentrations of administration.

Serum protection is done by adding the water-soluble preservative Kathon CG (INCI: 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, Rohm and Haas®). The use of a water-soluble preservative allows better protection of serum than the use of a fat-soluble preservative (for example, nipagin or nipazole), due to the high content of the aqueous phase and the ability of microorganisms to multiply in the aqueous phase and on the interface. To give the gel a soft aroma, a fragrance company Curt Georgi (Germany) is used. The stabilization of the concentration of hydrogen ions (pH) is made by triethanolamine.

The possibility of carrying out the claimed invention is confirmed by examples of specific performance.

Example 1

As a dietary supplement, VITA Facial Serum contains a 10.0% suspension of niosomes up to 100 nm in size with the included pig placenta stem cell extract, Actiflow ™ concentrate containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, hyaluronic acid, avocado oil, and it consists of a copolymer acrylate emulsion, glycerin, propylene glycol, an organosilicon elastomer, cyclomethicone, triethanolamine, Kathon CG ™ preservative, perfume and melt water from the glaciers of the mountains of the North Caucasus. The phases of preparation and formulation of serum are presented in table 1.

Phase A is prepared at room temperature by mechanically mixing the components in a mixer. Phase B, containing a suspension of niosomes up to 100 nm in size, is manufactured separately and introduced into phase A with vigorous stirring. To stabilize the concentration of hydrogen ions (pH) to 7.0-7.2 and the formation of the structure of serum contribute phase B.

The prepared serum was applied to previously cleansed face skin 1 time a day before bedtime. After 10 days of serum use, the degree of keratinization and moisture were evaluated. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 11% and the moisture content was 5% with a niosome content of 10%.

Example 2. It is carried out analogously to example 1, only a suspension of niosomes is introduced in an amount of 20%, which includes stem cell extract, avocado oil, Actiflow ™ concentrate containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, and hyaluronic acid. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 45% and the degree of moisture was 41% of the initial values.

Example 3. It is carried out analogously to example 1, only a suspension of niosomes is introduced in an amount of 30%, which include stem cell extract, avocado oil, Actiflow ™ concentrate containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, and hyaluronic acid. The maximum increase in the degree of keratinization was 45% and the moisture content was 42% of the initial values.

Thus, the delivery system is optimal for moisturizing the skin of the face - a suspension of niosomes in an amount of 20% with the content of pig placenta stem cell extract, Actiflow ™ concentrate containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, hyaluronic acid and avocado oil (example 2). A further increase in the percentage of niosomes did not lead to a significant increase in the degree of keratinization and hydration of the skin.

The developed serum has passed clinical trials in the regional dermatovenerological dispensary and at the Department of Dermatovenerology and Cosmetology of the Stavropol State Medical Academy (protocol No. 38 dated 06/29/2007).

As a result of the studies, the optimal percentage of nios in the moisturizing serum for the face “VITA” was selected, which allows to obtain the maximum increase in the degree of keratinization and skin hydration (table 2).

The claimed content of all the components in the formulation of moisturizing face serum "VITA" optimally ensures the achievement of the desired effect, which is mainly achieved due to the content of transdermal transporters-niosomes and moisturizing biologically active substances.

Thus, the claimed serum intensely moisturizes, nourishes, increases the elasticity of the skin and improves its biomechanical properties.

Table 1 Phases of preparation and formulation of moisturizing face serum "VITA No. Name of ingredient Content in% (by weight) Phase A one Meltwater from the glaciers of the mountains of the North Caucasus up to 100 2 Preservative (Kathon CG ™) 0,0004-0,0006 3 Acrylate Emulsion Copolymer (Salcare SC80) 0.5-1.5 four Fragrance (Curt Georgi®) 0.5-0.6 5 Organosilicon Elastomer (DC 9045) 10.0-15.0 6 Cyclomethicone (DC 345) 10.0-15.0 7 Propylene glycol 5.0-10.0 8 Glycerol 1.0-5.0 Phase B 6 Nyosome suspension containing avocado oil, Actiflow ™ concentrate, hyaluronic acid and stem cell extract 10.0-30.0 Phase B 7 Triethanolamine 0.5-1.5

table 2
The dependence of the degree of keratinization and skin hydration on the content of the suspension of niosomes when applying moisturizing serum for the face "VITA" for 10 days Examples one 2 3 Nyosome suspension containing avocado oil, Actiflow ™ concentrate, hyaluronic acid and stem cell extract (% gel) 10 twenty thirty Humidity (% increase from baseline) 5 41 42 The degree of keratinization (% increase from the initial value) eleven 45 45

Claims (1)

Moisturizing face serum containing a gel-forming component, a moisturizing component glycerin, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, a preservative, perfume, a dietary supplement and water, characterized in that it contains cyclomethicone DC 345, as a biologically active additive - a suspension of nios with sizes up to 100 nm with they contain pig placenta stem cell extract, hyaluronic acid, avocado oil, concentrate (Actiflow ™) containing polysaccharides and vitamin PP, and they are based on an acrylate copolymer emulsion (Salcare SC80), cr organic organo elastomer (DC 9045) and melt water from the glaciers of the mountains of the North Caucasus with the following content of components, wt.%:
Niosome suspension containing avocado oil, concentrate of polysaccharides and vitamin PP, stem cell extract hyaluronic acid 10.0-30.0 Salcare SC80 Acrylate Emulsion Copolymer 0.5-1.5 Silicone Elastomer DC 9045 10.0-15.0 Cyclomethicone DC 345 10.0-15.0 Propylene glycol 5.0-10.0 Glycerol 1.0-5.0 Triethanolamine 0.5-1.5 Fragrance Curt Georgi ™ 0.5-0.6 Kathon CG ™ Preservative 0,0004-0,0006 Meltwater from the glaciers of the mountains of the North Caucasus up to 100.0