RU2457828C2 - Cream-gel for eye-surrounding skin care of "effecton" series - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, pharmaceutics.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to field of cosmetics, in particular deals with cream-gel for eye-surrounding skin care, which contains base for creams DTM+ with eftidermon, jojoba oil, Siberial ginseng, fragrance, apricot oil, wheat germs, Shi; collagen, horse chestnut, elastin, vitamins A and E.

EFFECT: invention provides preparation, which normalises skin state, has improved organoleptic properties, higher antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, tonic, moisturising and reparative effect, as well as prevents skin ageing and wrinkle formation.

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Description

The invention relates to cosmetics, specifically to means for skin care around the eyes, mainly aimed at preventing aging processes and normalizing the condition of the skin.

Skin cosmetics are known which contain active substances and bases. So, the cream for body skin according to the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2156515, 2000 contains an active substance from a number of derivatives of ethylidene diphosphonic acid, a weak organic acid and vitamins. In addition, it contains a base that includes mineral and vegetable oil, emulsion wax, monoglycerides, cosmetic stearin, anhydrous lanolin, triethanolamine, preservatives, perfume and water. However, such a skin cream does not have a therapeutic effect, its components slowly penetrate the skin, the structure of the cream is not delicate enough and contains a small amount of nutrients, vitamins, macro- and microelements, the cream is not specifically designed to care for mature, aging skin.

Closest to patentable is an eye cream (RF patent No. 2286135. Publ. 10.27.2006. Bull. No. 30), which contains a cosmetic base with eftederm, malavit, eleutherococcus extract, juniper oil (perfume) and jojoba, citric and succinic acid , tocopherol acetate (vitamin E), retinol acetate (vitamin A).

The disadvantages of the prototype include the fact that its composition contains an insufficient amount of macro- and microelements, nutrients and substances that contribute to the rapid restoration of connective tissue structures that prevent the formation and eliminate wrinkles; insufficient antibacterial protection, anti-inflammatory, tonic, moisturizing and reparative effects. A pungent odor of juniper oil is also noted. In addition, citric and succinic acids, which are part of the cream, in some cases cause the appearance of vesicular rashes on the skin.

The technical task is to eliminate the above disadvantages: improving organoleptic properties, increasing antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, tonic, moisturizing and reparative effects; an increase in the amount of macro- and microelements, nutrients and substances in the cream-gel that contribute to the rapid restoration of connective tissue structures, as well as preventing skin aging and wrinkles by introducing new ingredients into the cream.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that the cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series, containing the base for creams with eftederm, jojoba oil, eleutherococcus extract, vitamins A and E, fragrance, differs in that it additionally contains apricot oil, wheat germ, shea; collagen, horse chestnut extract, elastin in the following ratio of components, wt.%:

jojoba oil 0.50-1.50 apricot oil 0.30-1.00 wheat germ oil 0.30-1.00 collagen 0.10-0.30 horse chestnut extract 0.10-0.20 eleutherococcus extract 0.10-0.20 elastin 0.01-0.10 Shea Butter 0.01-0.10 vitamin A 0.01-0.07 vitamin e 0.01-0.07 perfume 0.001-0.007 foundation for creams 98.20-96.50

The base for creams contains eftederm, oil phase components, viscosity modifiers, co-emulsifiers, aminophylline, diclofenac, preservatives, emulsifiers, dalargin and purified water.

Eftiderm is a transdermal conductor of biologically active substances; it easily carries them into tissues. In addition, it has a pronounced antioxidant effect, increases cell viability, acts on enzymatic systems of biological membranes, which leads to a significant increase and prolongation of the effect of all components of the composition. As a result of the combined action of all ingredients on deep-lying structures, there is an increase in anti-inflammatory, decongestant, reparative and antimicrobial effects, the skin's hydro-balance is normalized.

The optimal effect of efteiderm is observed at a concentration of 15.00-20.00%. With its content of less than 10.00%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 25.00% it practically does not increase (the difference in indicators is unreliable).

Jojoba oil - an adaptogen, has a pronounced anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, reparative effect; softens, nourishes and moisturizes the skin, normalizes the hydro balance, eliminates wrinkles, does not leave a greasy shine. Jojoba oil in chemical composition is unparalleled in the plant world, in composition and properties similar to spermacetate, resistant to oxidation, has high temperature stability, which makes it one of the best lipid materials in modern cosmetics. It contains a high concentration of vitamins, trace elements, amino acids, protein, unsaturated fatty acids identical to skin lipids, which makes the cream structure especially soft and suitable for any skin type; one of the best hair care products of any type, especially dyed, dry and brittle.

The optimal effect of jojoba oil in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.50-1.50%. With its content of less than 0.50%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 1.50%, it practically does not increase (the difference in indicators is unreliable).

Wheat germ oil (Biobranyl) is an adaptogen that has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cleansing, and antibacterial effects. It slows down the aging of cells, stimulates metabolic processes, improves the condition and rejuvenates both dry and oily skin, helps to improve complexion, keeps the skin supple and fresh even in old age, nourishes it, stimulates hair growth, eliminates minor damage, wrinkles, spots , freckles, skin defects, peeling and dry lips, acne. Effectively for hair loss, with scuffs and coarsening of the skin, prevents the formation of stretch marks, including after pregnancy and with a rapid change in body weight, it is used for sunburn and domestic burns. A good effect is observed in obesity, anemia, and in the rehabilitation of patients after serious illness.

Wheat germ oil enhances the excretion of harmful substances from the body, is a source of proteins (proteins), contains vitamins A, B and E, F and trace elements: iron, selenium, zinc; a unique natural concentrate of biologically active substances necessary for humans (triglycerides, glycolipids, phospholipids, fatty acids, etc.).

The optimal effect of wheat germ oil in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.30-1.00%. With its content of less than 0.30%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 1.00%, it practically does not increase (the difference in indicators is unreliable).

Apricot oil is an adaptogen that has anti-inflammatory, regenerating, tonic, anti-aging effects, smoothes wrinkles, helps restore skin elasticity, eliminates peeling and redness, gives it freshness, healthy beautiful color, softens, moisturizes and nourishes it, restores the epidermal barrier. Helps to eliminate dry plaques, rashes, inflammations; normalizes lipid and energy metabolism of the skin. Apricot oil gives good results when caring for problem skin, with dry dermatitis, with tired and sagging skin; with everyday skin care of a mixed type, for the care of baby and sensitive skin, it helps to eliminate stains and slows down the aging process.

The optimal effect of apricot oil in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.30-1.00%. With its content of less than 0.30%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 1.00%, it practically does not increase (the difference in performance is not significant).

Collagen (collagenase) helps to restore the normal structure of the skin, slows down the formation of wrinkles, reduces their size and depth.

The optimal effect of collagen in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.20-0.50%. With its content of less than 0.20%, the effect is negligible, and with a concentration of more than 0.50%, the skin topography may change due to excessive formation of connective tissue.

Horse chestnut extract is an adaptogen. It contains flavonoids, vitamins of groups B, C and K. It stabilizes the walls of blood vessels, increases the tone of veins, reduces blood clotting and blood clotting, and reduces spasm of peripheral vessels. It tones the smooth muscles of the veins, eliminates telangiectasia (vascular pattern on the skin).

The optimal effect of horse chestnut in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.10-0.20%. When its content is less than 0.10%, the effect is noticeably reduced, and when the concentration is more than 0.20%, it practically does not increase (the difference in indicators is unreliable).

Eleutherococcus extract is an adaptogen, it has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antihypertensive, tonic and wound healing effects, normalizes metabolism, blood supply and the functioning of skin cellular structures, and boosts immunity. Promotes the transition of fat into carbohydrates and proteins, reduces blood cholesterol. Slows down skin aging. It stimulates the adaptive abilities of the body, weakens stress reactions. It contains vitamins A, B, B ₁ , C, D, E, F, G, coumarins, flavonoids, essential oils, steroids, carbohydrates, mineral compounds, alkaloids, oleic and phenol carboxylic acids, lignans (eleutheroside D and E).

The optimal effect of zleuterococcus in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.10-0.20%. With its content of less than 0.10%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 0.20%, it practically does not increase (the difference in indicators is not significant).

Shea butter is an adaptogen, has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, wound healing and analgesic effects, helps to normalize metabolism, improves immunity, softens the skin, eliminates dryness and sweating.

The optimal effect of Shea butter in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.01-0.10%. With its content of less than 0.01%, the effect is not sufficiently pronounced, and with a concentration of more than 0.10%, the effect remains practically unchanged, in addition, an unpleasant odor appears.

Elastin helps restore the normal structure of connective tissue, slows down the formation of wrinkles, reduces their size and depth, increases the elasticity and firmness of the skin.

The optimal effect of elastin in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.01-0.10%. With its content of less than 0.01%, the effect is negligible, and with a concentration of more than 0.10%, it practically does not increase, and with an increase in its content of more than 0.80%, the skin topography may change due to excessive formation of connective tissue.

Vitamin A - Retinol Acetate. It has an antioxidant effect. It normalizes metabolic processes, the development and growth of the body, the functions of the sebaceous and sweat glands, and increases the body's resistance to infections. Increases the ability of the eyes to adapt to low light. It has a rejuvenating and sunscreen effect, smoothes wrinkles, eliminates keratosis - thickening of the epidermis, dryness and peeling of the skin.

The optimal effect of vitamin A in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.01-0.06%. With its content of less than 0.01%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 0.06% with prolonged use, signs of hypervitaminosis may appear.

Vitamin E - Tocopherol Acetate. An antioxidant, an active antioxidant, normalizes microcirculation in the skin and subcutaneous tissue. It has a rejuvenating and sunscreen effect, smoothes wrinkles.

The optimal effect of vitamin E in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.01-0.06%. With its content of less than 0.01%, the effect is markedly reduced, and with a concentration of more than 0.06% with prolonged use, signs of hypervitaminosis may appear.

Fragrance - gives the cream a pleasant smell, has a deodorizing effect. Its optimal content in the cream should be 0.001-0.01%.

With its content of less than 0.001%, the smell is practically not determined, and with a concentration of more than 0.01% it becomes very sharp.

Thus, the above concentration of the components of the proposed cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series helps to improve organoleptic properties, increase antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, tonic, moisturizing and reparative effects; increase in the amount of macro- and microelements, nutrients and substances in the cream that contribute to the rapid restoration of connective tissue structures, as well as preventing aging of the skin and the formation of wrinkles by introducing new ingredients into the cream.

The following ingredients are used to make the patented cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series:

- jojoba oil - according to the applicable NTD or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- apricot oil - according to the applicable NTD or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- wheat germ oil - according to the applicable NTD or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- collagen according to the applicable NTD or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- horse chestnut extract - according to TU 9154-010-26923989-99;

- Eleutherococcus extract - according to TU 9154-010-26923989-99;

- elastin - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- Shea butter - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- Vitamin A - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation;

- Vitamin E - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation;

- perfume - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation or imported, registered in the Russian Federation;

- basis for creams - according to the NTD applicable in the Russian Federation (eftederm - according to FSP 42-0361-3373-02 or according to FS 42-3337-97).

Note: raw materials can be replaced by a similar one, produced in the Russian Federation, or imported, registered in the Russian Federation.

Obtaining cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the series "Effekton"

The required amount of base for creams is loaded into the mixer of the MZUTS 300 model (with mixer and homogenizer). The stirrer is turned on for 12-15 minutes, at the same time the mass is heated to 45-55 ° C. Dry and liquid ingredients are pre-weighed in the required amount on an analytical balance, after which each liquid component is separately added to the mixer, followed by stirring for 2-3 minutes. Each dry ingredient is individually triturated manually with a reactive mass in a ratio of at least 1:10. They are introduced into the mixer of the MZUTS 300 model, mixed thoroughly for 15-25 minutes with periodic (2-3 times) turning on of the homogenizer for 2-3 minutes until a homogeneous mass of white or white with a yellowish tinge is formed, with a faint odor corresponding to the oils used. Cool to a temperature of 30-32 ° C. After analysis, the resulting cream-gel is packaged in tubes or in other containers permitted in the Russian Federation.

Table I The composition of the cream-gel compositions for skin care around the eyes of the series "Effekton" used in clinical trials №№ Components Composition, wt.% one 2 3 four Prototype one Jojoba oil 1.00 0.50 2 Apricot oil 0.50 - 3 Wheat germ oil 0.50 - four Horse Chestnut 0.15 - 5 Eleutherococcus 0.15 0.25 6 Shea Butter 0.05 - 7 Vitamin A 0,03 0,03 8 Vitamin E 0,03 0.04 9 Perfume 0.003 0.05 10 Collagen 0.10 0.20 0.20 0.40 - eleven Elastin 0.01 0.05 0.10 0.10 - 12 Foundation for creams,
including eftederm 97,477
20.00 97,337
20.00 97,287
20.00 97,087
20.00 97.36 + other components
20.00 Total: 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Note. 1. Previously, the optimal concentrations of all components of the cream-gel for the care of the skin around the eyes of the Effecton series were established, except for collagen and elastin.
2. As a prototype, the cream for the eyelids of the Effekton series was used.

Comparative clinical studies were conducted on 50 female volunteers aged 30-65 years, divided blindly into 5 groups equally. All women had mixed skin types (dry, normal and oily). Dry skin prevailed with a large number of wrinkles of different depths, swelling, "bags" under the eyes, a change in skin elasticity and color (dark circles) around the eyes. Most women noted the difficulty in choosing a cream due to the appearance of allergic reactions, skin rashes, and itching. Women noted severe dry skin (62%), sleep disturbance (58%), depressed mood (56%), irritability (64%), and fatigue (54%). Registration of indicators was carried out before the use of cream gel, after 3, 7 and 14 days from the start of its use.

In the process of research, the pH of the skin was determined. Before using cream gel in women, it averaged 6.80.

They evaluated complexion, elasticity, skin turgor, the number of wrinkles, rashes, etc., studied the subjective state of women on the SAN map (well-being, activity, mood). Cream gel was applied in a thin layer 2 times a day (morning and evening) on clean skin around the eyelids and face for 14 days. All studies were carried out according to generally accepted methods.

As a result, it was found that all the studied compositions did not have a negative effect on the subjects. Particularly good indicators were observed in women of groups 1, 2, and 3: on days 2–4, the depth and number of “fine” wrinkles decreased, the effect was most pronounced around the eyes, and skin turgor increased significantly; on the 3-5th day of using cream-gel, the complexion improved, the “feeling of tightening of the skin” disappeared, and the pH returned to normal. On day 7, there was a significant decrease in the depth and number of “large” wrinkles, especially in the nasolabial triangle and forehead, a significant decrease in the size of “bags” under the eyes (100%) and the color intensity of “circles under the eyes” (42%) or their complete disappearance (58%). It should be noted that the improvement in indicators was most pronounced in women of groups 2 and 3, especially under the age of 50 years.

Compositions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 eliminated dryness and significantly increased turgor and skin elasticity. When using the prototype (group 5), improvements occurred with a lag of 2-5 days. Not a single case of complications was recorded in these groups. Only in one woman, 64 years old, of the 4th group, on the 14th day of applying the cream gel, a slight “swelling” of the skin was noted in the forehead. This was regarded as a reaction to the increased collagen content in the composition. Upon repeated examination after 2 days, the “swelling” (without treatment) completely disappeared. The pH in groups on day 14 was 5.40-5.80.

When analyzing the subjective state according to the SAN test, the subjects, especially in groups 2 and 3, noted an improvement in well-being, which was expressed in an improvement in night sleep, a decrease in irritability, and a “feeling of depression”. All the subjects noted that they became more attractive, the skin - more elastic, softer, “younger”. They significantly reduced the number (68%) and depth (64%) of wrinkles, especially wrinkles around the eyes, in the forehead and in the nasolabial triangle. By day 14, wrinkles (56%) and dark circles around the eyes (52%) disappeared, “bags” under the eyes (46%) disappeared, and in other cases there was a significant decrease or decrease in color intensity. The action of compositions 2 and 3 did not practically differ from each other (the difference between the indicators was unreliable). Considering the fact that composition 3 with the same effect contains 2 times more elastin, the composition of cream-gel 2 is proposed for patenting.

So, the patented cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series (part 2), containing the basis for creams, eftederm, jojoba oil, eleutherococcus extract, vitamins A and E, fragrance, characterized in that it additionally contains apricot oils , wheat germ, shea; collagen, horse chestnut extract, elastin, faster than the prototype and other groups eliminates wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes, “bags” under the eyes, reduces the number and depth of facial wrinkles, skin rashes, heals minor injuries, optimizes pH, improves skin elasticity and turgor eliminates its dryness.

Thus, a patented cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series, combining cosmetic and therapeutic properties based on the use of non-deficient ingredients of natural and organic origin, is proposed for patenting.

The proposed cream gel meets the criteria of novelty, non-obviousness and industrial applicability, in connection with which it is proposed to legal protection by a patent for an invention.

Claims (1)

Cream-gel for skin care around the eyes of the Effecton series, containing the basis for creams with eftederm, jojoba oil, eleutherococcus, vitamins A and E, fragrance, characterized in that it additionally contains apricot oil, wheat germ, Shea; collagen, horse chestnut, elastin, in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
jojoba oil 0.50-1.50 apricot oil 0.30-1.00 wheat germ oil 0.30-1.00 collagen 0.10-0.30 horse chestnut 0.10-0.20 eleutherococcus 0.10-0.20 elastin 0.01-0.10 Shea Butter 0.01-0.10 vitamin A 0.01-0.07 vitamin e 0.01-0.07 perfume 0.001-0.007 foundation for creams 98.20-96.50