RU2183954C1 - Cosmetic agent for complex skin care and method of its application - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, particularly, cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: cosmetic agent may be used for care of face, neck and breast upper part skin, including problematic and withered skin. Introduced ingredients in the cosmetic agent are at the following ratio, mas.%: liposomes suspension of extracts of camomile and mint, or aloe vera, eleutherococcus, echinatseya, hop, or aloe vera, oat and lucerne, or camomile, echinatseya, 0.8-8.0; apestole, 0.28-1.0; methyl ester of paraoxybenzoic acid, 0.2-0.3; propyl ester of paraoxybenzoic acid, 0.08-0.1; glycerin or distilled glycerides and/or triethanolamine, 0.25-3.0; aromatizant, 0.1-0.3; water, up to 100. The cosmetic agent may additionally contain a color and 10-% ammonia water, olive, cotton, salad and refined sunflower oils, grape pits, and also cosmetic stearin or bee wax, stearate and eleate, lanolin and sodium hydrocarbonate. The cosmetic agent is applied on skin of face, neck and upper part of breast, and after it, ionophoresis is carried out on skin. Proposed cosmetic agent contains compositions which application on skin creates synergism and promotes moistening and rejuvenascence of skin, and at the same time, protects skin against action of unfavorable factors of environment. EFFECT: improved efficiency. 9 cl, 4 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetology, and can be used to care for the skin of the face, neck and upper chest, including problematic and aging skin, as well as to the cosmetic industry, namely the production of cosmetic creams and gels.

 Skin care products affect human health in general, since any cosmetics - natural and synthesized artificially, penetrate the skin through the skin and have a systemic effect on it. In modern cosmetology, the task is to completely eliminate toxic substances in the compositions, to replace nitrosamines, dioxans, heavy metals, preservatives that are not indifferent to health, with natural substances of plant and animal origin.

 Three layers are distinguished in the skin: epidermis - external, dermis (skin proper) - internal with appendages (sweat, sebaceous glands and hair follicles), hypodermis - subcutaneous fat. In turn, the epidermis consists of five layers: horny, glossy or vitreous, granular, awl-shaped, the main layer of the epidermis or basal, the basement membrane on which the cells of the basal layer are located.

 The main or basal layer represents the growth zone of the entire integumentary tissue of the skin (epithelium). The rounded cells of this layer actively divide and "specialize", gradually moving to the next layers of cells of higher layers. As they grow and mature, they become spindle-shaped and turn into flakes of the stratum corneum. At the end of their migration, which is 25-28 days, they either disappear or are erased from the surface, replaced by new ones.

 In modern cosmetic dermatology, biologically active substances (BAA) isolated from plants are widely used. Beauticians use herbal preparations in the form of compresses from infusions, decoctions, masks, lotions in combination with nourishing creams.

 One of the most serious problems of modern cosmetics is the delivery of dietary supplements to basalt skin cells. The protective layer of the skin is impervious to most existing cosmetics. In this connection, all kinds of transport systems are being created for the penetration of dietary supplements through the protective layer, including using liposomes, as well as under the influence of devices whose action is based on the principle of iontophoresis, phonophoresis, etc.

 Currently known therapeutic and cosmetic compositions containing a set of dietary supplements of plant origin. Thus, for example, a medical-hygienic massage composition is known containing liposome vitamins, adaptogens, phytohormones and biostimulants. (Pat. RF 2108081, publ. 04/10/1998).

 The disadvantages of the known cosmetic compositions is an unbalanced set of active ingredients and, as a result, allergic dermatitis. And also the necessary regenerative effect is not achieved due to insufficiently deep penetration of useful active additives into the layers of skin tissue.

 The closest solution to this problem is a cosmetic product based on a liposomal suspension of plant extracts containing a fat base - high oleic vegetable oil, structure-forming components - paraform, glycerin, ammonium salt of a rare cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl esters of pentaerythritol, and polyethylene glycol, preservatives - methyl and propyl ethers paraoxybenzoic acid, perfume and water as a biologically active additive - a suspension of liposomes from phospholipids and lipi s animal incorporated with the chloroform extract fitosbora and mummies, and further contains a dye with the following component ratio, wt%: High oleic vegetable oil - 1.8-2.0;. ammonium salt of a rare crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and polyamide esters of pentaerythritol - 1.0-1.2; polyethylene glycol - 1.0-2.0; glycerin - 3.5-4.0; paraform - 0.02-0.03; paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.2-0.3; paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.1-0.15; liposome suspension - 8.0-10.0; perfume - 0.2-0.4; dye - 0.01-0.02; water is the rest. Hydratant regenerating cream as a biologically active additive contains a suspension of liposomes containing an extract of plant origin - phytosborder, which contains a mixture of dried medicinal herbs of chamomile, calendula, St. John's wort. / RU 2139041, publ. 10/10/1999 /.

 The disadvantage of this cream is the high content of fat base.

 The present invention is the creation of a cosmetic product, the use of which will improve the effectiveness of the impact on the metabolism of lipids and proteins of the skin. This is achieved by enhancing the transport function of drugs, which is the delivery of drugs in liposomes, which are phospholipid vesicles having one or more bilayer membranes, the structure of which includes polar lipids with amphipathic properties due to hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. By reducing the fat base increases the functionality of biologically active components, and the selected ratio of components and the sequence of their application creates a synergistic effect of their effects on the skin.

 The problem is solved due to the fact that the cosmetic product contains formulations, the application of which creates a synergistic effect and helps to moisturize and rejuvenate the skin, while at the same time protecting it from the effects of adverse environmental factors. In addition, multiple multicomponent substrates selectively affect areas of dry, oily and mixed skin, recognizing its type.

 The basis for creating a cosmetic composition is the composition, wt.%: Suspension of liposomes from phospholipids and lipids containing water-glycerin plant extract, structure-forming components - Arespol (a copolymer of acrylic acid and polyallyl pentaerythritol esters), glycerin or glycerides distilled, or triethanolamine, preservatives paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester and paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester, fragrance, dye, water. As plant extracts, the cosmetic product contains lipophilic extracts of chamomile and mint; aloe vera water-glycerin extract and extract of eleutherococcus, echinacea, hop complex water-glycerin; chamomile, echinacea extract and water-glycerin echinacea extract; aloe vera water-glycerin extract; and oats and alfalfa water-glycerin extract.

 Moreover, the composition may additionally contain a fat base of high oleic vegetable oil - olive, cottonseed, lettuce, refined sunflower, grape seed, etc., as a base - cosmetic stearin or beeswax, triethanolamine, as well as vinylin and ammonia water.

 The kit contains means of composition, wt.%, Are presented in table.1-3.

 The composition of liposomes included 0.02-0.03 lipophilic extract of chamomile, mint.

 The composition of liposomes (with a negative charge) includes a negatively charged aloe extract.

 The extracts were prepared according to the technology given in the "Textbook of dosage forms technology" authors Ivanova LA, Kondratyeva TS, M., Medicine, vol. 2. Extraction by chloroform of phytobarrow allows the extraction of vitamins A, E, K, D, unsaturated fatty acids, as well as phospho- and glycolipids.

 Milk "Iolika" is a cleansing milk, the principle of action of which is due to the properties of the PEG-stearate-400 emulsifier and the Na ions contained in the composition. When applied to the skin, disincrustation occurs, i.e. saponification and purification of the sebaceous glands from fat contamination while stimulating regenerative processes due to the presence of phytoliposomes based on chamomile and mint extracts. Perfectly cleanses the skin from makeup, contamination, skin waste products. With regular use, the skin becomes smooth, supple, supple and light, surface wrinkles are smoothed out, helps to smooth the tan, removes roughness caused by the sun and wind, and prepares the skin for subsequent rejuvenation and protection procedures.

 The revitalizing gel "Iolica" is transparent in appearance, has a tonic and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin due to the presence of adaptogens in it - extracts of eleutherococcus, echinacea, hop. The cream is an effective prophylactic to prevent early aging of the skin. The skin becomes firm and elastic, gains vitality and tenderness, matte, characteristic of healthy and rested skin color, is restored.

 Regenerating and moisturizing gel acts on the skin due to the energy of negatively charged ions of extracts of aloe, oats, alfalfa in combination with a negative charge of the liposomal transdermal system. Actively affects age-related changes in the skin. It has enhanced protective and emollient properties. Prevents earlier withering, wrinkles are smoothed out.

 The listed formulations can be used both individually and in complex skin care by sequential application of the above cosmetics, which leads to a deeper penetration of anti-aging components, enhancing the cosmetic effect.

 In the presence of acne on the skin, you must additionally use the cream "Iolica" with the recipe 4 (see table 4).

 This cream has anti-inflammatory and bactericidal action, using the energy of negatively charged ions of extracts of echinacea, chlorhexidine and penetrating factors of dimethyl sulfoxide, it allows you to complete the process of caring for problem skin with acne, as well as dry skin with small inflamed microcracks acquired as a result of external influences. The cream has a pronounced wound healing and restorative function, effective protection of damaged tissues from secondary infection and suppuration, comfortable to use (pleasant and delicate texture, lack of oily sheen and pungent odor, etc.).

 Strengthening the percutaneous penetrating ability of the proposed cosmetics is achieved through the use of iontophoresis. For this purpose, use the device "Iolica", which is protected by patent RU 2153897 publ. 2000. The Iolika device allows therapeutic and cosmetic effects on the skin of the face, neck and upper chest to be positively and negatively charged with the ions contained in cosmetics, and provides deep penetration of ions through the protective layers of the skin, absorption of biological substances, cell restoration and collagen, and quickly improves skin condition. So the activation of blood circulation caused by composition 1 is enhanced in the alternating electric field of the Iolika device. At the same time, the effect of skin rejuvenation is persistent and long-lasting.

 When creating this cosmetic product, the following components are used: paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - TU 18-16-386-81, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - TU 18-16-387-81, glycerin - GOST 6824-76, PEG-400 oleate (polyethylene glycol ) - TU 18-16-94-82, high oleic vegetable oil - olive, cottonseed, lettuce, refined sunflower, grape seed, etc., a solution of organic yellow methanol for the skin - TU 6-14-488-89, perfume - TU 10-04-16-39-89, Arespol (copolymer of acrylic acid and pentaery polyallyl esters trita) - TU 2219-005-2905-29059334-2-97.

 Further tests were performed on female volunteers (35 people) with problem skin (age 8-25 years) and skin with signs of wilting (age 35-45 years).

 The procedures were performed as follows.

 Example 1

Options were offered to 10 women with aging skin: a three-position composition of the described phytocreams in non-liposomal form was sequentially applied stepwise to one half of the face. On the other half of the face was applied in stages a 3-position composition of the proposed creams in liposome form. Also, funds were applied to the neck and upper chest (décolleté). In both cases, iontophoresis performed by the Iolika device was used to enhance permeability.
The procedure was carried out as follows:
When applied to the face, the duration of exposure to the Iolika device is:
4 minutes - 1st composition;
7-28 minutes - 2nd composition;
3-4 minutes - 3rd composition.

When applied to the neck and upper chest, the duration of exposure to the Iolika device is:
1st composition - 2-10;
2nd composition - 4-23;
3rd composition - 2-10.

 The liposomal form of creams gave a noticeable effect after the 3rd procedure. A more pleasant sensation was noted when using the liposomal form and a lower consumption of products at all positions. Skin turgor increased, skin tightened, color improved. The effect of the tightening lasted for three weeks.

 As for the non-liposomal form, the results were less noticeable: the lifting effect remained at the level of 2 weeks, the improvement in skin color was not so pronounced.

 Example 2. 10 women with aging skin used a complex 3-stage effect of liposome herbal remedies applied to both halves of the face. To enhance percutaneous permeability, in one case, iontophoresis was used with the help of a device manufactured by NST Iolika, in the other case there was no electrophoresis, and the effect was ensured only by liposomal delivery of significant components. The results showed a double effect on the skin: with the help of liposomes and with the help of iontophoresis, which is involved in the transportation of all three compounds.

 A noticeable improvement in skin condition was observed in the form of a lifting effect, which was noticeable after the third procedure, an improvement in skin color (whitening), which lasted for three weeks.

 As for the traditional application of a liposomal agent in a three-position composition, the lifting effect was noticeable after the 4th - 5th procedures and remained at the level of 2 weeks.

 Example 3. It consisted in the fact that 10 women volunteers aged 18-25 with moderately acne prone skin were applied in one case, a phased analyzed composition in combination with iontophoresis performed by "Iolika", in another case, the cream of the 3rd stage was replaced by 4th, more specific position, designed specifically for such problematic skin.

 As a result, in the second case, a good anti-inflammatory effect was obtained already after 3-4 procedures, as for the use of the 3 composite complex in the primary version without a special anti-inflammatory gel, the anti-inflammatory effect was less noticeable: wide pores remained, acne could also be characterized as moderate.

 In all cases, characterized by three examples, skin irritation was not recorded, but a feeling of comfort and pleasant sensations were noted.

 These cosmetics belong to a set of cosmetics that are used for intensive complex effects on the cellular and systemic structures of the skin, and can be attributed to health-improving products with a therapeutic effect. The use of the entire complex allows reducing the negative effects of a number of reasons that cause premature skin aging. It is the complex use of our preparations (alternation, sequential or simultaneous application) that allows you to most effectively suspend the processes leading to skin degradation.

Claims (8)

1. A cosmetic product for skin care containing structure-forming components, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, a biologically active additive from plants, perfume and water, characterized in that it contains water-glycerin extracts of medicinal plants as a biologically active additive / or suspension of liposomes of said extracts selected from the group of chamomile and mint, and / or aloe vera, eleutherococcus, echinacea, hops, and / or oats and alfalfa, and / or chamomile, echinacea, as a structure-forming co Ponent - Arespol / copolymer aktilovoy acid and polyallyl ethers of pentaerythritol, glycerol or glycerides distilled and / or triethanolamine, with the following component ratio, wt. %:
Water-glycerin extract and / or suspension of chamomile and mint liposomes and / or aloe vera, eleutherococcus, echinacea, hops, and / or oats and alfalfa, and / or chamomile, echinacea - 0.02-8.0
Arespol - 0.28-1.0
Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.2-0.3
Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.08-0.1
Glycerol or glycerides distilled, and / or triethanolamine - 0.25-3.0
Fragrance - 0.1-0.3
Water - Up to 100
2. Cosmetic under item 1, characterized in that it further comprises a dye and ammonia water of 10%.  3. A cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a high oleic vegetable oil.  4. The cosmetic product according to claim 3, characterized in that it contains vegetable oil selected from the group of olive, cotton, lettuce, sunflower-refined, grape seed.  5. A cosmetic product according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that it further comprises cosmetic stearin or beeswax.  6. Cosmetic product according to any one of paragraphs. 1.3-5, characterized in that it further comprises stearate and oleate PEG-400.  7. A cosmetic product according to any one of paragraphs. 1.3-6, characterized in that it further comprises lanolin and sodium bicarbonate.  8. A method of applying a cosmetic product to the skin, characterized in that the cosmetic product according to claims 1 to 6 is applied to the skin of the face, neck, and / or upper chest. 1-7.  9. The method according to p. 8, characterized in that the increased percutaneous permeability of the cosmetic product according to paragraphs. 1-7, carried out by iontophoresis.

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