RU2799443C2 - Hair and scalp cleaner and care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic products for hair and scalp care. The agent for cleansing and caring for hair and scalp contains an active substance in the form of whey, enriched with metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/402, obtained by heat treatment of raw materials, adding a liquid starter of an acidophilic culture of Lactobacillus acidophilus strain 317/402, followed by cultivation and separation of the serum, which is mixed with active ingredients and cosmetic oils — oyster decoction, decoction of blue cyanosis roots and herb herb smooth, aqueous suspension of rye flour, 10% aqueous solution of citric acid, essential oils of orange and tea tree, castor oil and wheat germ oil, vegetable glycerin and 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate at a certain ratio.

EFFECT: invention provides moisturizing, cleansing, anti-inflammatory, regenerative, nourishing effect, improvement of consumer properties due to uniformity, ease of application, distribution over hair and scalp, improvement of organoleptic properties combined with an increase in antibacterial properties.

1 cl, 2 tbl, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry and relates to products for the care of the scalp and hair from natural ingredients.

Cosmetic products used for hair and scalp care, having a set of characteristics necessary to improve its structure and normal functioning, have a complex composition and may include compounds in the form of extracts, decoctions, tinctures, etc. from materials of plant, animal and synthetic origin. Their main function is to maintain the normal state of the physiological functions of hair and skin, including the normalization of metabolic, reparative and regenerative processes, maintaining the water-salt balance, improving the appearance, cleaning from pollution, and protecting against adverse factors of the external and internal environment.

Known hair care product "Alginate Biomask for Hair Express Recovery Live Algae" (https://vodoroslionline.ru/product/biomaska-alginatnaya-dlya-volos-ekspress-vosstanovlenie-zhivyye-vodorosli-200-ml/ - date appeals 10/13/2021). It consists of: purified water, fucus algae, sodium alginate, tincture of capsicum, vitamin PP, perfume composition, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazoline.

Known means for strengthening hair (Pat. 2074705, RF, IPC A61K 7/06, 1994), including obtaining a composition based on mucopolysaccharides, collagen (Kallon drug) and plant extracts containing the following components, wt. %: extract of birch leaves or buds 1.0-3.0; nettle leaf extract 3.0-6.0; flower pollen extract 1.0-3.0; drug Kallon 0.1-1.0; polyvalent alcohol (polyethylene glycol or propylene glycol, or glycerin) 1.0-4.0; citric acid 0.2-0.5; ethyl alcohol 15.0-30.0; drug PP-40 0.5-1.5; preservative 0.1-0.5; fragrance 0.2-1.0; water the rest. Designed to strengthen hair, improve blood circulation of the scalp, stimulate growth and restore damaged hair structure.

Known cosmetic product based on brown algae (Pat. 2314790, Russian Federation, IPC A61Q 19/00, A61K 8/97), including obtaining a universal cosmetic complex by soaking brown algae, grinding, infusing them in a solution of 0.5-1.0% hydrochloric acid, extraction in a medium containing sodium cations at pH 8.50-9.0 and a temperature of 80-90°C for 2.0-2.5 hours, extracting the extract and introducing citric acid into it to pH 5.0 and 0.3% lactate or calcium citrate. The tool can be made in the form of a cosmetic wipe, mask, scrub, nourishing cream and care for the nails of the hands or feet.

The composition of the Narin-E shampoo (https://www.escopharm.am/ru/single-post.php?id=77 - date of access 10/13/2021) is closest in technical essence to the claimed invention. metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria. To obtain whey enriched with strain 317/402 "Narine", this microbial group is cultivated in skimmed milk. Milk after autoclaving is cooled to 40°C and fermented with 2% fresh starter culture 317/402. Fermented milk is placed in a thermostat at 37°C for 20 hours. After that, the waste products of lactic acid bacteria are separated from coagulated proteins and microbial cells using filters. To obtain shampoos, compositions are made from the resulting serum with various ingredients. Ingredients: metabolic metabolites of lactic acid bacteria 10-20%, texapon N70, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, methyl paraben, comperlan COD, deaton detain, low viscosity polyquaternium, fragrance.

A common disadvantage of the formulations of the products listed above is the relatively high content of ingredients, including synthetic ones, which does not fully provide the claimed properties and may adversely affect the condition of the scalp and hair structure.

The objective of the invention is to develop a formulation of an agent that has a beneficial effect on the structure of the hair and the skin of the scalp through the use of natural ingredients.

The technical result of the invention is to improve consumer properties due to uniformity, ease of application, distribution over the skin and hair. In addition, the technical result is the expansion of the range of cosmetics, in which improved organoleptic properties are combined with an increase in cleansing, antibacterial, nutritional, regenerative, anti-inflammatory, hydrating properties due to the introduction of new ingredients into the product.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that the agent for cleansing and caring for hair and skin of the scalp, containing the active substance in the form of whey, enriched with metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/402, obtained by heat treatment of raw materials, the introduction of liquid starter acidophilic culture of Lactobacillus acidophilus strain 317/402, followed by cultivation and separation of whey, which is mixed with active ingredients and cosmetic oils, the composition is supplemented with a decoction of oysters, decoctions of blue cyanosis roots and herb herb smooth, an aqueous suspension of rye flour, a 10% aqueous solution of lemon acid, essential oils of orange and tea tree, castor oil and wheat germ oil, vegetable glycerin and 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate with the following content, wt. %:

milk whey enriched with products lactic acid bacteria metabolism Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/40 10.0 decoction of oysters 10.0 blue cyanosis root decoction 20.0 decoction of the herb herb smooth 20.0 aqueous suspension of rye flour 8.0 10% aqueous citric acid solution 0.5 orange essential oil 0.05 tea tree essential oil 0.05 castor oil 0.5 wheat germ oil 0.5 vegetable glycerin 5.0 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate up to 100

To obtain a decoction of oysters, the soft tissues of oysters are removed from the shells, mixed with water in a ratio of 3:10 and boiled for 10 minutes. To obtain a decoction of cyanosis roots, blue raw materials are mixed with water in a ratio of 1:20, and the mixture is boiled for 15 minutes. To obtain a decoction of the herb herb, raw materials and water are mixed in a ratio of 1:20, poured with boiling water and kept in a water bath for 5 minutes. To obtain an aqueous suspension of rye flour, mix rye flour with water in a ratio of 1:5, beat until smooth for 3 minutes.

In common with the prototype is the use of whey enriched with metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus strain 317/402 "Narine", as well as its introduction into the basis of hair care products.

New in the claimed composition is the introduction of new active ingredients into the composition of the hair care cleanser in the form of a decoction of oysters, a suspension of rye flour, sodium alginate, essential oils of orange and tea tree and castor oil with wheat germ oil are used as a vitamin complex, as decoctions of blue cyanosis roots and smooth herb herb were used as a foaming agent, tea tree essential oil was used as an antiseptic, and an aqueous solution of citric acid was used as a pH regulator. The quantitative values of the components of the formulations were chosen by the authors empirically, taking into account the achievement of the claimed result, and the introduction of the components of the formulation below and above the specified quantitative values does not provide the expected physiological and preventive effect.

The listed distinctive features testify to the novelty in the proposed technical solution. Conducted patent research, as well as the study of available scientific publications related to the subject of the invention, did not find solutions that have features similar to the proposed invention. The claimed tool can be manufactured industrially using known standard equipment.

The basis of the remedy is a decoction of oysters. Oysters occupy one of the leading places among marine products widely used in cosmetology. Preparations from oysters are saturated with collagen, zinc, omega-3, vitamins A, E, K, B1, B2, B3 (PP), B4, B5, B6, B9 and B12, C. In addition to the rich vitamin composition, oysters are distinguished by the exceptional composition of other antioxidant substances useful for the skin - selenium, omega-3 fatty acids, about 20 amino acids, contain macro- and microelements: calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, sodium, copper, manganese, fluorine. Oyster cosmetics improve cellular metabolism, help prevent inflammatory and allergic reactions, promote the healing of microcracks. Penetrating into the deep layers of the skin, the active ingredients derived from oysters moisturize and saturate it with beneficial substances. Numerous studies have shown that preparations containing oysters are highly effective bioactive substances that regulate excessive production of sebum in some areas and at the same time nourish dry skin areas in others, and contribute to the normalization of reparative and regenerative processes.

The effectiveness of the use of lactic acid bacteria in the production of cosmetics was proven by A. Ambartsumyan et al. (1). Studies have shown that cosmetic products using lactic acid bacteria and their metabolic products are physiological for the human body at any age and have no contraindications for use. Serum with lactic acid bacteria restores a healthy balance of the natural microflora of the scalp: increases the amount of beneficial microflora, while suppressing pathogenic bacteria.

Alginic acid and soluble alginates are widely used as thickeners in the food field and as rheology modifiers and stabilizers in the cosmetic field. One of the active components of the proposed product is sodium alginate, which occupies one of the leading positions among water-soluble polymers of natural origin, which is widely used in cosmetology [2]. Alginic acid preparations obtained from brown algae bind and remove toxic metals and radionuclides from the body, and have a wide range of biological activity. Sodium alginate stimulates phagocytosis and the synthesis of class A immunoglobulins - antibodies of local specific protection, which enhances the microbial resistance of the skin. Sodium alginate is non-toxic and non-allergic, stimulates reparative and regenerative processes, prevents inflammatory and allergic reactions, and is easily combined with biologically active substances. The introduction of sodium alginate into the composition of cosmetic compositions makes it possible to significantly reduce their dosage, sharply reduces or even eliminates the side effects of a number of drugs. The alginic film formed in the form of a gel envelops the hair along its entire length, thereby providing deep and long-term protection against damage, penetration into the skin, hair follicles and sebaceous glands of active substances necessary to normalize their activity. Sodium alginate, dissolving in water, has the ability to reduce surface tension at the interface, i.e. exhibits the property of surface active substances (surfactants), which suggests the possibility of its use as an emulsifier. Emulsifying and water-retaining properties determine the use of alginate in the production of pharmaceutical compositions, increasing their stability and shelf life.

Castor oil is considered the most useful product for depleted, brittle hair. Contains vitamins A, E, B vitamins, various fatty acids that nourish the hair from the inside, strengthen it, protect against dandruff, itching, and many scalp diseases.

Wheat germ oil in its composition contains 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids and 21 microelements, including essential amino acids: tryptophan, leucine, methionine, etc., saturated and unsaturated fatty acids: linoleic, stearic, palmitic, oleic, vitamins A, E, D, F, B vitamins, copper, sulfur, manganese, iron, potassium, iodine, zinc, selenium, etc. Due to the unique composition of valuable nutrients, the oil provides such beneficial properties: normalizes sebum formation in the root zone, revives the natural color and shine of hair , moisturizes dry hair and prevents the appearance of split ends, protects against damage and loss, facilitates combing, eliminates dandruff and seborrheic peeling on the scalp, protects against intense exposure to UV rays, stimulates the regenerative and regenerative processes of the skin of the scalp.

The composition of tea tree oil includes almost 100 useful components, which are divided into several groups. Oil reduces brittleness, dryness, prevents hair loss, refreshes and cleanses oily hair and roots, stimulates their growth, restores shine, gives volume. It is used as an antiseptic, perfectly refreshes and moisturizes the hair, heals microdamages, reduces inflammatory reactions, and, if used correctly, helps prevent dandruff, a secondary infection in case of damage.

Essential oil of orange. As a concentrated source of vitamin C, orange oil eliminates hair breakage, moisturizes, reduces sebum production, adds shine and protects hair from damage. In addition, this oil is considered one of the most effective means in the fight against seborrhea. The benefits and effectiveness of orange oil are due to its composition: limonene (contains vitamin C) - the strongest tonic, healing and antiviral component that can activate microcirculation in all tissues of the body, as well as their regeneration processes; linalool is a natural antidepressant; farnesenes - complex organic compounds that prevent the aging process and stimulate the renewal of tissue cells; Citral - antiseptic; citronellal - a natural flavor that has a beneficial effect on the emotional sphere; α- and β-terpinenes - have cleansing and regenerating properties; kadinen - a valuable resinous substance with a pronounced antiseptic and firming action; geraniol - an active component that promotes the restoration of damaged tissues; phellandrenes - increase the body's resistance to diseases of various nature; pinene - natural terpene, has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties

Soapy herbs (blue cyanosis, smooth hernia) are widely used as a detergent, because. they contain saponins - natural foaming agents. According to scientific research, saponin does not cause allergies and dermatitis, and at the same time perfectly removes dirt. Blue cyanosis root decoction is actively used in cosmetology. The active substances included in its composition eliminate inflammation, promote skin regeneration, normalize metabolic processes, maintain healthy shine and elasticity of hair with regular use as a rinse. Blue cyanosis contains: organic acids, polysaccharides, starch, essential oils, numerous micro and macro elements: magnesium, zinc, barium, bromine, molybdenum, iodine, manganese, selenium, zinc, iodine, iron, barium, selenium, aluminum. The medicinal properties of blue cyanosis are due to the high content (about 30%) of saponins, these natural glycosides make this plant unique. Gryzhnik smooth contains essential oils, lycorine, alkaloids, flavonoids, methyl ether, carotene, allantoin, coumarin, ascorbic acid, mineral salts, zinc, copper, iron, manganese, tannins, a mixture of saponins, coumarins - herniarin and umbelliferone, and many others elements important for the human body. When the plant is rubbed with water, a soapy foam is formed, which washes well and softens the skin. Therefore, due to the content of saponins, it is used in soap making. It has a nourishing, bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing effect. It cleanses the skin, effectively fights lichen, psoriasis, and promotes the rapid healing of minor skin defects.

Rye flour has excellent detergent and light abrasive properties, due to which it is used as the main ingredient in natural shampoos, scrubs, and cleansing pastes. The main difference between rye flour and wheat flour is that it does not form gluten. The composition of rye flour includes: vitamin E - a powerful antioxidant that slows down the aging process, promotes tissue regeneration, B vitamins - are necessary for proper skin nutrition, improve hair growth, reduce hair loss, potassium - is necessary for aging skin, regulates the level of moisture in cells , phosphorus - strengthens tissues, improves skin elasticity, enhances its resistance to negative environmental influences. In addition, this product contains other vitamins, micro and macro elements - iron, calcium and others. Rye flour gently and delicately cleanses the hair, while coping even with increased oiliness of the scalp and heavy pollution. It is able not only to cleanse, but also improves blood circulation of the scalp, prevents hair loss, gives lightness and volume, makes hair obedient, does not dry out ends and length, regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands, and is effective in combating dandruff.

Citric acid is often used to regulate the pH level of cosmetic products. It is added to the cosmetic formula to optimize the function of the product, and also as an additional preservative. It exfoliates the stratum corneum of the epidermis, removing dead cells, thereby contributing to the normalization of the functioning of the sebaceous glands and the growth of new cells. The important thing is that this preservative is ECOCERT approved. Citric acid is added to the formulas of cleansers, shampoos and soaps to provide foaming properties of the products. Due to its good cleansing and preservative effect, this component in the composition of shampoos facilitates combing and slows down hair pollution. Conditioners and rinses with citric acid promote shine and destroy excess sebum.

Vegetable glycerin is used for face, body, hair care, as well as for making handmade soaps and cosmetics, it promotes good distribution of cosmetics with light textures. It has a moisturizing, soothing, regenerating, nourishing effect on the skin, protects it from external factors, maintains water balance. As a hypoallergenic product, vegetable glycerin is suitable for sensitive, thin skin and can be used for all skin types, it is included in anti-aging cosmetics

The inventive tool is prepared as follows.

Example.

To obtain whey enriched with metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/402, this microbial group was cultivated in skimmed milk. 1 liter of milk after autoclaving at 121°C for 35 minutes was cooled to 40°C and fermented with 2% fresh starter of an acidophilic culture of Lactobacillus acidophilus strain 317/402. Fermented milk was placed in a thermostat at 37°C for 20 hours. To separate the enriched serum, the mixture was centrifuged at 3000 rpm for 5-7 minutes, sterilized again at 121°C for 25 minutes.

Decoction of oysters. After oysters Crassostrea gigas (Thunberg, 1793) were caught and cleaned from foulers and foreign matter, they were washed under running water 3-4 times, disinfected under a bactericidal lamp for 48 hours, and soft tissues were removed from the shells. A decoction was prepared from the ratio of oyster meat to water 3:10: 300 g of oyster meat and liquid from the shells were loaded into a container with 1000 ml of boiling distilled water, boiled for 10 minutes. The resulting broth was filtered twice on a filter unit.

To obtain a decoction of blue cyanosis roots, blue cyanosis roots were mixed with water in a ratio of 1:20: 20 g of crushed blue cyanosis roots were poured into 400 ml of distilled water, brought to a boil in a water bath, kept on fire for another 15 minutes, cooled, filtered.

A decoction of herb herb smooth was prepared from herb herb smooth and water in a ratio of 1:20: 20 g of herb herb smooth was poured into 400 ml of boiling water, kept in a water bath for 5 minutes, cooled, filtered.

To prepare an aqueous suspension of rye flour, rye flour was mixed with water in a ratio of 1:5: 20 g of rye flour was mixed with 100 ml of distilled water. Beat with a mixer for 3 minutes. A suspension of thick consistency was obtained.

To obtain a 10% aqueous solution of citric acid, 10 g of citric acid was dissolved in 90 ml of distilled water in a ratio of 1:9.

A 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate was prepared based on the ratio of sodium alginate to water of 3:97. 970 ml of distilled water and 30 g of Algogel 6021 high viscosity sodium alginate were mixed until completely dissolved. A 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate was obtained.

To prepare the composition, 10 g of enriched whey, 10 g of an oyster decoction, 20 of a blue cyanosis root decoction, 20 g of a smooth herb herb decoction, 8 g of an aqueous suspension of rye flour, 0.5 g of a 10% aqueous solution of citric acid, 0. 05 g of orange essential oil, 0.05 g of tea tree essential oil, 0.5 g of castor oil, 0.5 g of wheat germ oil, 5 g of vegetable glycerin, 25.4 g of a 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate. All components were thoroughly mixed to a homogeneous consistency, the composition was filtered.

The finished product differs from the usual hair washing products by weak foaming. At the same time, the soap herbs in its composition perfectly remove impurities and take care of the hair and scalp due to the saponins and rye flour contained in them. The inventive hair care product to ensure the specified result is recommended to be used for hygienic purposes 1-2 times a week for or after washing combined types of hair prone to oiliness, with damaged, prone to excessive hair loss and brittleness, in the presence of seborrheic and inflammatory areas on the scalp. This product should be applied to wet hair, massage and hold as a mask for 5-10 minutes, and then rinse with water. The tool is intended for people of all ages, including children and adolescents, with different skin types.

The inventive composition has good organoleptic properties - a pleasant appearance (caramel color), smell, has a soft creamy texture, is homogeneous, easy to apply and distributes through the hair, has an optimal pH value of 7.0, which provides deep cleaning, is well washed out, does not foam much , which does not affect its claimed properties.

The prepared sample, obtained on the basis of the proposed formulation, was subjected to an assessment of consumer properties. The test results are shown in table 1.

According to organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters, the claimed cleanser for the care of the scalp and hair meets the requirements and standards according to GOST 31696-2012, indicated in table 2.

The proposed tool contains safe components that do not enter into chemical interactions with each other during prolonged contact, does not contain toxic compounds. Due to the content of whey, vegetable and essential oils in them, it has a bactericidal, nourishing, regenerating, deactivating, sorption, disinfecting, anti-inflammatory, regenerating, softening effect, and contributes to the normalization of sebum secretion. It performs its main function: it cleans the tissues of the hair and scalp well from impurities, gently, but at the same time effectively removes excess sebum, impurities, adsorbs waste products of microorganisms, and promotes the regeneration of damaged areas of the skin of the scalp. The proposed product can be used as a shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, has a simple preparation process, which consists in mechanical mixing of the ingredients, and not chemically, using standard equipment of the pharmaceutical industry. They do not have toxic and side effects (except for individual intolerance to the components that make up its composition).

Sources of information taken into account:

1. Ambartsumyan A.D., Ter-Stepanyan M.M., Shiroyan A.G. Substantiation of the idea of using lactic acid bacteria in the production of cosmetics "PHARMA" Scientific and practical journal No. 08-2014. Yerevan 2014, pp. 10-13.

2. Yusova A.A., Gusev I.V., Lipatova I.M. Properties of hydrogels based on mixtures of sodium alginate with other polysaccharides of natural origin. [Text] // Chemistry of plant raw materials. - 2014. - No. 4. - From 59-66.

Claims (2)

Means for cleansing and caring for hair and skin of the scalp, containing the active substance in the form of whey, enriched with metabolic products of lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/402, obtained by heat treatment of raw materials, adding a liquid starter of an acidophilic culture of Lactobacillus acidophilus strain 317 /402 followed by cultivation and separation of whey, which is mixed with active ingredients and cosmetic oils, characterized in that oyster decoction is additionally added to the composition, in which soft tissues of oysters from shells are mixed with water in a ratio of 3:10 and boiled for 10 minutes ; a decoction of cyanosis blue roots, in which the raw material is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:20 and boiled for 15 minutes; a decoction of the herb herb smooth, in which the raw materials are mixed with boiling water in a ratio of 1:20 and aged in a water bath for 5 minutes; an aqueous suspension of rye flour, in which rye flour is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:5 and beaten for 3 minutes until smooth; as well as a 10% aqueous solution of citric acid, essential oils of orange and tea tree, castor oil and wheat germ oil, vegetable glycerin and a 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate with the following content of components, wt.%: milk whey enriched with products lactic acid bacteria metabolism Lactobacillus acidophilus strain Ep 317/402 10.0 decoction of oysters 10.0 blue cyanosis root decoction 20.0 decoction of the herb herb smooth 20.0 aqueous suspension of rye flour 8.0 10% aqueous citric acid solution 0.5 orange essential oil 0.05 tea tree essential oil 0.05 castor oil 0.5 wheat germ oil 0.5 vegetable glycerin 5.0 3% aqueous solution of sodium alginate up to 100