RU2180214C1 - Cream scrub - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology, cosmetic preparations for facial skin care. SUBSTANCE: the cream scrub contains cross-linking components, an oily phase, moistening additives, a pilling, biologically active additives, conservants, perfumery composition and water. Moreover, as cross-linking components it uses distilled monoglycerols or glycerol monostearate, emulsifying wax, alcohols of C₁₇-C₁₈ fraction or high-molecular synthetic C₁₆-C₁₈ ones or synthetic primary highest fatty alcohols of C₁₆-C₂₀ fraction, as an oily phase - perfumery oil or vaseline oil, as a moistening additive - distilled glycerol or propylene glycol, as pillings - kaolin and scorlumine, as biologically active additive - allantoin, as conservant - ethyl ether of paraoxybenzoic acid, propyl ether of paraoxybenzoic acid, bronitrol or bronopol. EFFECT: improved softening action of cream scrub, removal of dead cells and blackhead eruption. 4 cl, 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetics intended for facial skin care.

 In a number of cosmetic scrub products, both mineral substances and crushed shells of various nuts and fruit seeds are used as peels (abrasives).

 Dry mask for skin care for the face, designed to immediately cleanse the skin, eliminate peeling, remove superficial comedones, reduce skin grease, contains kaolin, talc, bentonite clay or tiha-Askane, sodium benzoate, vanola or bronopol, as dietary supplements - ground fruit seeds or mineral eggshell fortifier, 50% solution of L-α-lecithin or PEG-400 oleate, chamomile oil extract, Siberian carbon dioxide fir green extract, urea, ground nettle leaf, resorcinol [1].

 Dry cosmetic mask for skin care, providing moisture removal from the surface of the skin and intercellular space with simultaneous sorption cleaning of the skin, includes a mixture of finely divided powder sorbents - silica gel, starch, kaolin, zeolite, bentonite, aluminum dioxide, synthetic organic ion exchangers; bacteriostatics - extract of birch leaves, bird cherry, calendula flowers, fir oil; fragrance - clove or lavender oil, or geranium; a cosmetic organic water-soluble additive is glycerin [2].

 Leda-plus cosmetic face mask contains polyethylene oxide gel, clary sage oil, balanced salt composition of Hanks solution, silica gel, ground peach bones, chopped pine nutshells, lemon juice, rowan and May birch leaves extracts, calendula tincture , sodium benzoate and / or propolis extract, perfume composition, water [3].

 By the type of peelings and dietary supplements used, the face mask [1] selected as a prototype is the closest to the claimed cream-scrub.

 Dry face care mask - prototype contains structure-forming components - L-α-lecithin - 50% solution or PEG-400 oleate, oil phase - chamomile oil extract, moisturizing additive - urea, peeling - kaolin, talc, bentonite clay or quiet -askan, fruit ground bones or mineral enrichment of egg shells, pine nutshells, biologically active additives - Siberian carbon dioxide fir green leaf extract, ground nettle leaf, resorcinol, preservatives - sodium benzoate, vanola or bronopol, perfume composition and water.

 A dry mask has a dense texture and is quite difficult to wash off from the face, possibly mechanical damage to the skin.

 The inventive cream scrub is an oil / water emulsion and differs not only in consistency from the dry mask prototype, but also in the presence of cocamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric surfactant), first introduced into the scrub cream. Cocamidopropyl betaine gives a new property - cream scrub is easily washed off the face at the end of the procedure.

 In addition, peach and wheat germ oils, introduced into the scrub cream, have a high energy potential and the ability to penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis. This is a classic anti-age therapy, as oils have antioxidant and regenerative properties, moisturize the skin (see table. 1).

 The task of the inventors was to create a special cream designed not only for mechanical peeling, but also for nourishing cleansed skin and having a new property for scrub creams - it is easy to wash off the face after the procedure.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the inventive cream scrub containing structure-forming components, an oil phase, moisturizing additives, peeling, biologically active additives, preservatives, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains cocamidopropyl betaine, triethanolamine, citric acid, provitamin B _5, allantoin, as structure-forming components - stearin cosmetic grade a, B, D, Y or stearin cosmetic imported, distilled monoglycerides and glycerol monostearate, Sun emulsion, alcohols fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ overclocked (primary synthetic), alcohols, or high molecular weight synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alcohols or synthetic primary higher fatty fraction C ₁₆ -C _20, as the oil phase contains oil perfume oil or paraffin oil, peach or peach extract oil, as a moisturizing additive - distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol, carbamide grade A, as peelings - kaolin, peeling from a peach kernel shell or peeling from an apricot kernel shell, or scorlamin (fr action 100 μR), as biologically active additives - extracts of coltsfoot, a string, wheat germ, birch leaf, as preservatives - methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, bronitrol or bronopol, rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purification or ethyl alcohol for the control panel.

 Description of the main raw materials used in the inventive cream-scrub.

The structure-forming components are selected from the group consisting of cosmetic stearin (brands A, B, D, U) or imported cosmetic stearin, distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate, emulsion wax, alcohols of the C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ fraction dispersed (synthetic primary) or high molecular weight synthetic alcohols C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols of C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , triethanolamine.

 The oil phase is formed by peach oil or peach extract oil and mineral oils - perfume or petroleum jelly.

 Peach oil or peach oil can be considered as a biologically active additive.

 Peach oil (Oleum Persicorum).

 In the claimed invention uses peach oil or peach oil extract.

 Peach oil is obtained by cold pressing from peach, apricot and apricot kernel. They are obtained manually from fresh fruits that grow in the wild in the mountains of southern Kyrgyzstan, as well as artificially cultivated in the Ferghana Valley. The raw materials are environmentally friendly, since they are traditionally grown without the use of herbicides and pesticides; there are no salts of heavy metals.

 Oil purification is carried out without the use of chemicals using the original technology, without preservatives. Belongs to the category "EXTRA VIRGIN".

 In cosmetics, its excellent penetration into the deep layers of the epidermis is used.

 Even Avicenna described the amazing cosmetic properties of peach oil when used for skin care around the eyes, sensitive and requiring nutrition of the skin of the neck and chest, as well as for hair and scalp care.

Composition:
Fatty Acids - Percentage
Palmitic - 3 - 6
Stearin - 0.5 - 1.5
Palmitooleic - 0.5 - 1.0
Oleic - 58 - 74
Linoleic - 20 - 34
Gadolenovaya - 0 -1.0
Moisturizing additives are selected from the group consisting of distilled glycerol PK-94 or propylene glycol, carbamide grade A.

 As a bleaching additive, citric acid was introduced into the composition of the scrub cream.

R - жирные кислоты кокосового масла
Пилинги выбирают из группы, состоящей из: каолина, пилинга из скорлупы косточки персика, пилинга из скорлупы косточки абрикоса, скорлумина.Cocamidopropyl Betaine is an amphoteric surfactant - brand name - Dehyton K (Henkel)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine

R - Coconut Oil Fatty Acids
Peelings are selected from the group consisting of: kaolin, peel shell peeling, apricot kernel peeling, scorlumin peeling.

 Kaolin quickly and effectively cleanses the skin from deposits of obsolete cells and impurities, opens pores, and eliminates excessive fat content.

 Peeling from natural stone shells - a soft abrasive from the shells of apricot is produced from ecologically clean, specially processed raw materials, the origin of which is unpolluted and devoid of industrial emissions areas of the south of Kyrgyzstan, relict walnut forests of the southern slopes of the Tien Shan.

 Particle sizes 0.2-0.35 mm (for use in creams and gels for the face, designed to remove the keratinous layer of the skin, sanding spots from acne, small scars and other defects).

 Scorlumin is an egg-rich mineral fortifier rich in calcium. It has anti-caries, anti-inflammatory and cleansing effects. It is used as an abrasive for scrubs.

 Calcium is the main structural element of the eggshell. Egg shells are subjected to special treatment, resulting in a fine powder. The use of natural sources of calcium is promising, since calcium in the composition of organic compounds is better absorbed by the body.

 For food, cosmetic and medical purposes, egg shell powder - scorlumin is used as a source of calcium and other mineral elements.

Scorlumin contains macro- and microelements: calcium, sulfur, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, iron, zinc, chromium, fluorine, copper, manganese, iodine, cobalt, molybdenum and vitamins: B ₁ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₉ , B ₁₂ , P [4].

Dietary supplements are selected from the group consisting of provitamin B ₅ , allantoin, an extract of mother-and-stepmother water-alcohol or an extract of mother-and-stepmother water-alcohol-glycerin, or an extract of mother-and-stepmother in propylene glycol, an extract of a series of aqueous - an alcohol or extract of a series of water-alcohol-glycerin, or an extract of a series in propylene glycol, an extract of wheat germ oil or an extract of wheat germ water-alcohol, or an extract of wheat germ water-alcohol-glycerin, or an extract of wheat germ propylene glycol, birch leaf extract, oil or birch leaf extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, birch leaf aqueous-alcoholic-glycerine or birch leaf extract in propylene glycol.

In protecting the skin from external influences, an important role is played by the antioxidant - provitamin B ₅ .

Провитамин В₅ обладает быстрым и глубоко увлажняющим действием, стимулирует клеточную регенерацию и помогает в восстановлении тканей, способствует нормальной кератинизации, лечению хирургических, травматических или термических ран, действует как противовоспалительный агент, эффективен при обработке чрезмерного загара.

Provitamin B ₅ has a quick and deeply moisturizing effect, stimulates cell regeneration and helps in tissue repair, promotes normal keratinization, treats surgical, traumatic or thermal wounds, acts as an anti-inflammatory agent, and is effective in treating excessive tanning.

 Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) is classified as a safe and effective skin protective product. It has an epithelizing effect on rough and cracked skin, eliminates peeling and callosity, makes the skin smooth and supple. In the presence of allantoin, the regenerative properties of the skin are enhanced. When added to face and body skin care products, it provides softness, silkiness of the skin, it acquires a clean, well-groomed appearance.

 Mother and stepmother. A coltsfoot water-alcoholic extract or a coltsfoot extract water-alcohol-glycerin, or a coltsfoot extract in propylene glycol are used.

 Leaves and flowers contain mucus, bitter glycoside - tussilagin, inulin, dextrin, sitosterol, saponins, ascorbic acid, tannins, essential oil, gallic, malic, tartaric acid.

 Squeezed juice from fresh leaves or leaves is applied to festering wounds, ulcers, abscesses, as a means of well healing wounds [5].

 Oil extract series. An extract of a series of water-alcohol or an extract of a series of water-alcohol-glycerin, or an extract of a series in propylene glycol is used.

 Medicinal raw material is grass. It contains mucus, bitterness, essential oil, a large amount of carotene (up to 6 mg%), ascorbic acid (100 to 1000 mg%), tannins with a high content of polyphenyls, which are attributed anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties.

 Decoctions from a series of herbs are used for washing and rubbing with scrofula, exudative diathesis and scabies in children.

 The crushed leaves of the string are applied to wounds and ulcers, which helps to cleanse them from pus, dry them and heal more quickly [6].

Wheat germ oil (Wheat germ oil, Triticum spp.)
Used wheat germ oil extract or wheat germ water-alcohol extract or wheat germ extract water-alcohol-glycerol, or wheat germ extract in propylene glycol.

Wheat germ oil composition:
Linoleic - 55 - 60%
Oleic - 13 - 21%
Palmitic - 13 - 20%
α-Linoleic - 4 - 10%
Stearic - 2%
Unsaponifiable fats (mainly sterols) - 3 - 4%
The classic anti-age therapy. It has antioxidant and regenerative properties. Moisturizes the skin, smoothes out fine wrinkles, especially recommended for skin around the eyes. With prolonged use, dry skin is eliminated.

 Oil birch leaf extract or water-alcohol birch leaf extract or water-alcohol-glycerin birch leaf extract, or birch leaf extract in propylene glycol is used.

 Betuloretin acid (in the form of butyl ether), ascorbic acid (2-8%), carotene, nicotinic acid, tannins (5-9%), saponins (3.2%), glycosides - hyperoside and spiracoside were found in birch leaves sugar (8-9%), bitterness inoside, betulalbin resin, triterpene alcohols, flavones, essential oil (0.05%). In the composition of the essential oil found: betulen, betulol, betulenic acid, naphthalene, sesquiterpenes.

 It is used externally in the treatment of minor injuries, skin erosion, pressure sores, skin irritation with purulent discharge, and in the treatment of acute and chronic forms of eczema, poorly healing ulcers, with myositis and arthritis [7].

 Preservatives are selected from the group consisting of esters of methyl and propyl para-hydroxybenzoic acid, bronitrol or bronopol, ethyl alcohol of higher purity or ethyl alcohol for PCP.

 The preparation of scrub cream is carried out according to the following technology.

The preparatory boiler for the preparation of the fat phase is loaded with: cosmetic stearin or emulsion wax, distilled monoglycerides, high molecular weight alcohols, peach oil extract or wheat germ oil extract, perfume oil and heated to a temperature of 80-85 ^o C.

The reactor is charged with water, kaolin and heated to a temperature of 60 ^o C.

Then glycerin, allantoin, triethanolamine, cocamidopropyl betaine (Dehyton K), citric acid are added to the reactor and heated to a temperature of 70-75 ^o C.

 When this temperature is reached, molten fatty raw materials are fed into the reactor from the preparatory boiler and a mixture of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters is charged.

Emulsification of cream-scrub is carried out at a temperature of 75-80 ^o C for 20-30 minutes Cooling is turned on, and peeling of peach or apricot kernel shells, or scorlumin, 40% aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol, water-alcohol-glycerin extract of the succession, water-alcohol-glycerin extract of mother-and-stepmother or water-water, is added at a temperature of 60-65 ^o С -alcoholic extract of birch leaf, provitamin B ₅ , urea and mix.

When cooled to a temperature of 45-30 ^o With load bronitrol, then the perfume composition.

 The finished cream is analyzed, then pumped into a collection container for storage and transferred to the packaging.

 Cream-scrub is a cosmetic mass interspersed with peeling particles. Color - from grayish-white or gray with a cream tint to beige or gray with a brown tint with a delicate smell.

 Experimental batches of scrub creams have been developed.

 All of the claimed scrub creams have undergone experimental and clinical trials at the NPO "Cosmetology" of the Ministry of Health of Russia or at the test laboratory center of the Beauty Institute.

 Experimental studies showed that after 21 cutaneous application of scrub creams on 16 white outbred rats weighing 230-250 g, no general toxic effects on animals were revealed, as evidenced by the results of a comparative analysis of behavior, dynamics of body weight, condition of internal organs, skin, wool experimental and control groups.

 Creams do not have irritating and sensitizing effects. Pathological changes in internal organs (kidneys, lungs, spleen, heart) were not detected.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 clinically healthy individuals without a burdened allergic history at the age of 30 to 55 years. According to patchwork and application samples, it is shown that creams are harmless, do not have an irritating and allergenic effect.

 Cream-scrub removes obsolete cells, impurities, acne, releasing a fresh layer of skin. Peach oil has a softening effect and allows you to use this tool daily. The skin immediately becomes surprisingly silky. It is recommended that you first moisten your face and neck with water, apply a scrub to your face and neck, and gently massage with wet fingertips (with caution around your eyes) for about 1 minute, then rinse with warm water and wipe dry.

Sources of information
1. RF patent 2030911, 6 A 61 K 7/48, publ. 03/20/95, Bull. 8 (prototype).

 2. RF patent 2142787, 6 A 61 K 7/48, publ. 12/20/99, Bull. 35.

 3. RF patent 2120273, A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, publ. 10/20/98, Bull. 29.

 4. Scientific almanac "Cosmetics & Medicine" 5-6 / 2000, founder and publisher of LLC "Firm Klavel", M., p. 54-57.

 5. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, Ed. Saratov University, 1988, p. 99-101.

 6. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, Ed. Saratov University, 1988, p. 253-254.

 7. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, Ed. Saratov University, 1988, p. 230-233.

Claims (4)

1. A cream scrub containing structure-forming components, an oil phase, moisturizing additives, peeling, biologically active additives, preservatives, a perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains cocamidopropyl betaine, and distilled or glycerol monostearate as structure-forming components, emulsion wax, distilled alcohols C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ dispersed (synthetic primary) or high molecular weight alcohols synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or synthetic alcohols primary higher fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ contains perfume or vaseline oil as an oil phase, and distilled glycerol PK-94 or propylene glycol as a moisturizing additive, kaolin and scorlumin as peels, allantoin as a biologically active additive, and as preservatives - methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ether, proipyl ether paraoxybenzoic acid, bronitrol or bronopol, rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purity or ethyl alcohol for PCP. 2. Cream scrub according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally contains stearin, triethanolamine as structure-forming components, and carbide is used as moisturizing additives, food citric acid is used as a bleaching additive, provitamin B _{5 is used} as biologically active additives , wheat germ oil extract or wheat germ water-alcohol extract or wheat germ water-alcohol-glyceric extract, or wheat germ extract in propylene glycol, birch leaf oil extract or whether 100 birch water-alcohol or leaf extract of birch water-alcohol-glycerol, or leaf extract of birch in propylene glycol, and as a peeling contains peeling from the shell of apricot kernel.  3. A cream scrub according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally contains cosmetic stearin, triethanolamine as structure-forming components, and peach oil or peach oil is used as the oil phase, and coltsfoot extract as biologically active additives water-alcohol or coltsfoot extract water-alcohol-glycerin, or coltsfoot extract in propylene glycol, water-alcohol series extract or water-alcohol-glycerin series or extract series in propylene glycol, and as ve peeling contains peeling from peach shell. 4. Cream scrub according to paragraphs. 1-4, characterized in that it contains by weight: cosmetic stearin - not more than 18.00%, distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate - 0.50-5.00%, emulsion wax - not more than 6.00%, fractional alcohols C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ dispersed (synthetic primary) or high molecular weight alcohols synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ , or synthetic primary alcohols higher fat fractions C ₁₈ -C ₂₀ - 0.50-6.00%, triethanolamine - not more than 2.00% , perfume or vaseline oil - 1.00-8.00%, peach oil or peach oil - not more than 2.00%, distilled glycerin PK-94 il propylene glycol - 3.00-6.00%, carbamide - not more than 2.00%, food citric acid 0 not more than 1.00%, cocamidopropyl betaine (100%) - 0.20-1.00%, kaolin - not more than 10.00%, peach shell peeling - not more than 10.00% or apricot kernel peeling - not more than 10.00%, or scorlumin - not more than 10.00%, provitamin B ₅ - not more than 2, 00%, allantoin - 0.20-1.00%, coltsfoot extract water-alcohol or coltsfoot extract water-alcohol-glycerin, or coltsfoot extract in propylene glycol - not more than 3.00% extract of a series of water-alcohol or extract of a series of water-alcohol glyc rin or extract of a series in propylene glycol - not more than 3.00%, wheat germ extract oil or wheat germ extract water-alcohol or wheat germ extract water-alcohol-glycerin, or wheat germ extract in propylene glycol - not more than 3.00%, leaf extract oil birch or water-alcohol birch leaf extract or water-alcohol-glyceric birch leaf extract, or birch leaf extract in propylene glycol - not more than 3.00%, methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester - 0.05-0.50%, propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester you - 0.05-0.50%, bronitrol or bronopol - 0.05-0.50%, rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purity or ethyl alcohol for PCP - not more than 6.00%, perfume composition - not more than 0.50 %, water - the rest.

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