RU2602475C1 - Cosmetic body scrub - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetology and represents cosmetic skin cleansing body scrub, containing crushed strobili of Scotch pine and fir extract of pine wood green, containing 30 % of aqueous solution of glycerol, scrub ingredients are taken in certain proportions, wt %.

EFFECT: invention provides integrated, synergetic effect of bioactive components, exfoliation of the stratum corneum, normalizes metabolism in skin cells, restores turgor and hydrate properties, performs bactericidal, antioxidant and anti-stress effect.

1 cl, 2 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology, in particular to cosmetics for skin care of the body, which have a cleansing effect on the stratum corneum. Cosmetic body scrub “Forest Energy” for cleansing the skin of the body includes a component of mechanical exfoliation and a structure-forming moisturizing component - a complex of biologically active compounds of woody greens. The claimed cosmetic product, as an active active component of skin cleansing, contains crushed strobiles (cones) of ordinary pine, as a structure-forming component that nourishes the skin, a coniferous extract of pine wood greens containing a 30% aqueous glycerol solution is used; the components in the product are in a specific proportion.

It is known that skin cleansing procedures include elements of chemical or mechanical removal of the stratum corneum. For this purpose, individual hygiene products (washcloths or sponges) are used from natural or synthetic materials, the keratinized layer is also removed from the most problematic skin areas using pumice, etc. An alkaline soap solution also helps to remove the upper keratinized layer of skin (valid like chemical peeling).

However, all these skin cleansing methods have their drawbacks. Hard sponges and washcloths irritate the skin, removing both dead skin and healthy, young skin cells. The soap solution has an acidity index (pH) of 11-12, which is very different from the pH of healthy human skin (from 4.5-6.0 to 7.5 in different areas) and inevitably leads to dryness and irritation. Modern shower gels act on the skin much more delicately, their pH is close to neutral indicators (5.0-7.5), but they do not provide removal of dead cells.

Thus, the optimal means of skin cleansing from the point of view of physiology should provide:

- removal of keratinized cells from the surface;

- pH compatible with human skin;

- a combination of skin cleansing with its nutrition.

Cleansed from dirt and keratin scales and enlarged pores of the skin under the influence of warm water intensively absorb various bio-additives contained in the product (vitamins, plant extracts, etc.).

The peeling process has a cleansing effect on the stratum corneum of the skin, which allows you to remove the upper stratum corneum of cells to accelerate skin renewal. Used both chemical and mechanical peeling.

Chemical peeling uses ά-hydro acids (AHA) and β-hydro acids (BHA), applied to areas of the skin that require cleansing. The application of this method consists in the following: acid-containing agents applied to the skin surface cause a burn of the surface layer of the skin, followed by exfoliation of the epidermis layers.

However, there are quite a few contraindications for the use of this method: herpetic infection, proximity of the location of blood vessels to the surface of the skin, temperature, rash, inflamed skin. In addition, ά-hydroacids and β-hydroacids used in chemical peels are potent substances with high acidity, which contribute to overdrying the skin, the improper use of which can entail a risk of burns and skin damage when using preparations with a high concentration of acids. The use of this method is recommended only in specialized institutions and is an expensive procedure.

In mechanical peeling, mainly cosmetic products such as scrubs or gommages, which differ in principle of action, are used. These products are the basis of various consistencies and contain a cosmetic abrasive such as ground stone shells, stone eggshells, wheat granules, etc.

A common thing in the method of mechanical peeling is that some cosmetic product is applied to the surface of the skin using fingers or special means (for example, a sponge). The application of a cosmetic product is accompanied by massage for a more complete penetration of the abrasive into the folds and pores of the skin. Then this cosmetic product is removed from the surface of the skin in any known manner (erasing with sanitary napkins, rinsing, etc.). When massaging with a cosmetic product and with its subsequent removal from the skin, the abrasives included in the composition exfoliate the upper stratum corneum.

Known dry cosmetic mask containing oatmeal and chopped medicinal plant materials, while as a chopped medicinal raw material contains Siberian cedar processing products selected from the group consisting of cedar kernels, crushed cedar bark, chopped pine nutshell, chopped pine needles or a mixture listed components. Additionally, a dry mask may contain white clay, as well as soy flour or chopped almond nut, flax seed, currant leaf, burdock root [Kovaleva ON Dry cosmetic mask // RF patent No. 2240105, MKI A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, 11/20/2004 (1)].

Oatmeal containing a large amount of gluten is used as the basis in this composition, which negatively affects the structure of the product, since gluten, as the mask dries, begins to prevent the penetration of beneficial components into the epidermis. Thus, the disadvantage of the known mask is that the use of oatmeal as its basis does not provide the possibility of penetration of the components of the cosmetic mask into the deep layers of the epidermis.

The invention is known - a dry cosmetic mask, which is a cosmetic mask that includes a base, crushed natural biologically active medicinal raw materials, a natural abrasive, where fermented rye malt is used as a base, and crushed dry rice is used as a natural abrasive [Passer N.A. Dry cosmetic mask // RF patent No. 2543355, MKI A61K 8/18, A61K 8/97, A61K 8/19, 02/27/2015, (2)].

Due to the high content of sea salt in the claimed invention, sweating, elimination of toxins from the body, and pore cleansing are stimulated. But salt greatly overdries the skin in significant concentrations, so moisturizing components must be added to the product. In addition, salt can cause irritation and dermatitis.

A cosmetic product is known containing a product derived from kelp. As a product produced from kelp, it contains biogel from Japanese kelp. As a biogel from Japanese kelp, they use the food product "Lamidan" produced from Japanese kelp. As a cosmetic additive contains a 50% aqueous solution of glycolic acid. The cosmetic product exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces the thickening of the epidermis, improves hydration and deeply nourishes the skin with microelements [Kim S.A. Cosmetic product, RF patent No. 2210359, MKI A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, 08/20/2003, the prototype (3)].

In the most preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic product contains the food additive "Lamidan" and a 50% aqueous solution of glycolic acid in a ratio of 2: 1. According to the invention, exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the skin is carried out using means containing α-hydroxy acids.

The disadvantage of this method is the complexity of the application, due to the multicomponent composition, namely the use of components of multidirectional action, while a complex multifunctional action in one tool is desirable. Also, glycolic acid, which is one of the main components for exfoliating the skin, is a potent substance with high acidity, contributing to overdrying of the skin, improper use of which can entail a risk of burns and skin damage. So at a low concentration of glycolic acid, although skin irritation occurs less frequently, the stimulating effect is reduced. Therefore, most products with glycolic acid contain no more than 10% concentration of the substance, against the 50% claimed in the method.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The aim of the present invention is to provide a special cosmetic product for skin care of the body, designed not only for peeling, but with a complex synergistic effect of bioactive components of woody greens, necessary for nourishing cleansed skin. The complex of these components has exfoliating, tonic, regenerating and moisturizing effects on the skin.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic body scrub "Forest Energy" for cleansing the skin of the body as the main active ingredient in skin cleansing contains crushed strobiles (cones) of ordinary pine; as a structure-forming component that nourishes the skin, a coniferous extract of pine wood greens is used, containing a 30% aqueous solution of glycerol as a moisturizing ingredient. The claimed combination of a complex of biologically active compounds of pine green wood contained in a coniferous extract and the abrasive component of crushed pine strobil for this purpose was not used in cosmetics. The components for the manufacture of this cosmetic product are taken in a certain quantitative ratio, wt. %:

Shredded strobiles of Scots pine - 25%,

Coniferous extract - 75%.

When applying the cosmetic scrub for the body “Forest Energy”, as a result of the complex synergistic action of bioactive components and particles of pine cones used as a peeling, exfoliation of the stratum corneum is provided, which simultaneously normalizes the metabolism in the skin cells, restores its turgor and hydrant properties, bactericidal, antioxidant and anti-stress effects are carried out.

Body scrub "Forest Energy" allows you to clean the surface of the skin from contaminants that have fallen on it from the outside, as well as from the products of internal secretion, due to the action of the peeling component, while the product:

- has a pH close to skin pH (5.8);

- provides stimulation of metabolic processes in the skin due to biologically active additives contained in the scrub;

- creates a micromassage effect on the dermal layer of the skin, as a result, skin receptors are irritated and biologically active substances penetrate into it. In particular, in the process of absorption, osmosis and sorption, biologically active substances such as tannins of needles, natural antiseptics and coagulants, which cleanse the surface of the skin from pathogens, stop small bleeding, promote healing of small cracks and the formation of a healthy epidermal, enter the skin. skin layer; vitamins, sugars and amino acids that nourish the skin, restore carbohydrate metabolism, give it elasticity; flavonoids that strengthen the walls of blood vessels; phytoncide needles - natural antibiotics that have beneficial effects on the skin.

Characteristics of the raw materials used in the inventive scrub.

The use of crushed strobilas of common pine as a component of body scrub “Forest Energy” contributes to a soft but tangible smoothing of the skin relief, exfoliation of dead skin cells from the skin surface, as well as deep cleansing of skin pores from impurities.

The coniferous extract of pine wood greens, as a component of the product, represents biologically active substances of wood greens soluble in a 30% aqueous glycerol solution. Due to the presence in its composition of natural compounds that stimulate the healing of affected areas, it cleanses the skin, has an anti-inflammatory effect, protects against external pathogenic microorganisms, stimulating repair processes. It contains essential oils (terpene hydrocarbons), carotenoids (carotenes and xanthophils), green pigments (“a” and “b” chlorophyll), vitamins (provitamin A, vitamins E, K, D, F), volatile and other biologically active substances. The presence of chlorophyll gives the product deodorizing properties.

Glycerin, as a component of the product, has antiseptic and preservative properties. Absorbing into the tissue and slightly irritating the exteroreceptors of the skin, glycerin attracts the liquid component of blood to it, which softens the skin.

The cosmetic effect of the action of the scrub is noticeable after the first application. The skin areas treated with a scrub acquire elasticity, smoothness and change their color (become lighter) compared to untreated ones.

To use the body scrub “Forest Energy”, you must open the lid of the container for individual use. Next, a wet scrub is applied to wet skin of the body with your fingertips. The skin with the scrub applied is gently massaged for about 2 minutes, after which the cosmetic product is washed off with plenty of warm water.

Cosmetic body scrub "Forest Energy" is prepared as follows.

In a reactor with a stirrer at room temperature, the coniferous extract of pine green wood and ground strobiles of ordinary pine are loaded in the above ratios. The mixture is thoroughly mixed in the reactor for 20-30 minutes at room temperature until a homogeneous mass is obtained. After mixing, the finished product is Packed in containers.

The cold preparation method allows you to save biologically active substances in it.

For comparative clinical trials used a tool of various compositions, are presented in table 1.

,

,

The following example is used to describe the present invention.

Example

The test of the claimed cosmetic products was performed on 36 volunteers aged 19-55 years, randomized to 3 groups equally. The tool was used once a week for 2 months.

As a result of the studies, it was found that this tool is non-toxic, does not have an irritating and allergenic effect on the skin of the body and the human body, cleanses the skin from micro-pollution, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. At the same time, skin turgor improves, obsolete skin cells are replaced by young elements, microcirculation in the skin improves.

Visual inspection was carried out before using the scrub for the body “Energy of the forest”, on the 7th, 14th, 21st, 28th, 35th, 42nd, 49th and 60th day of its use.

Upon examination, the skin type was determined, the condition was evaluated: turgor, peeling; ascertained the anamnesis, carried out bacterioscopy of scrapings from the surface. All studies were carried out according to generally accepted methods.

Studies conducted on the skin of people showed that the scrub for the body “Forest Energy” has the simultaneous effect of exfoliating the outer surface layers of the skin and moisturizing (hydration).

The research results are presented in table 2.

As a result of the studies, it was found that in all the studied patients included in group 1, peeling of the skin disappeared by the 14-18 day, dry skin disappeared on the 18-22 day, and the skin pH was 5.5.

The results of the 2nd group significantly exceeded those of the others, namely: by 8-9 days, peeling of the skin disappeared, on the 12-14th day, dry skin disappeared, elasticity and turgor of the skin returned to normal, pH was 5.3. The degree of exfoliation was 45%, which exceeded the similar indicator of group 1 by 60.7%, the indicator of group 3 was at the level of the preferred option of group 2. Skin hydration was 33%, which is 5.7% less compared to group 1, but 83.3% more compared to group 3. Slightly less moisturization of the skin compared with the use of the cosmetic composition of group 1 is associated with a high content of the moisturizing component of the first composition containing glycerin, but does not slightly exceed the preferred 2nd version of the composition, which will not affect the declared quality indicators of the product.

In group 3, the results were close to those obtained in group 2, peeling of the skin disappeared 2-3 days later than in group 2, dry skin disappeared for 18-23 days. The pH was 5.2.

Based on the results of applying cosmetic scrub for the body “Forest Energy”, it seems possible to draw the following conclusions:

1. Upon completion of the research, the most effective composition of the cosmetic scrub for the body “Forest Energy” as the main active ingredient in skin cleansing contains crushed strobiles (cones) of common pine; as a structure-forming component that nourishes the skin, a coniferous extract of pine wood greens is used, containing a 30% aqueous glycerol solution as a moisturizing ingredient, in the following ratio of components, wt. %: crushed strobiles of common pine - 25%, coniferous extract - 75%.

2. The best results were obtained from subjects of group 2, in connection with which composition 2 is submitted for patenting. The composition exhibits anti-inflammatory, reparative effect; contains a greater amount of nutrients, due to the introduction of new ingredients into the product, which, due to percutaneous activity, quickly penetrate into tissues, prolonging and enhancing the effect of the composition.

Information sources

1. Kovaleva O.N. Dry cosmetic mask // RF patent No. 2240105, MKI A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, 11/20/2004

2. Pass by N. A. Dry cosmetic mask // RF patent No. 2543355, MKI A61K 8/18, A61K 8/97, A61K 8/19, 02/27/2015.

3. Kim S.A. Cosmetic product RF patent No. 2210359, MKI A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, 08/20/2003

Claims (1)

Cosmetic scrub for cleansing the skin of the body, containing crushed strobiles of Scots pine and coniferous extract of pine wood, containing 30% aqueous glycerol, in the following ratio, wt. %:
crushed strobiles common pine 25% coniferous extract of pine green wood, containing 30% glycerol aqueous solution 75%