RU2568589C1 - Method of correction of aesthetic and age-related skin problems - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention is a method of correction of aesthetic and age-related skin problems, including the consistent treatment of skin of face, neck and low neckline using cosmetics by makeup removal with cleansing milk, followed by deep cleansing and exfoliation of the horny layer with fruit acids, glycolic peeling and post-peeling neutralisation and post-peeling care, characterised in that the peeling is carried out in stages, and at the first stage the skin is treated with the mixture of cream-exfoliant with 12% serum of alpha hydroxide acids in a ratio of 3:2 and kept on the skin for 3-4 minutes, at the second stage 25% almond-apple peeling is applied to the degreased skin, which is kept on the skin for 10-15 minutes, at the third stage from 1 to 6 layers of 50% glycolic acid is applied on the previously treated skin with an exposure of each layer for 5-6 minutes, followed by the skin neutralisation.

EFFECT: increase in rejuvenating effect.

6 cl, 1 tbl, 4 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology, namely to the creation of a complex of acids for peeling with a peeling and lifting effect to correct aesthetic and age-related skin problems.

Aging is a very complex process that occurs in every cell of the body, and skin aging is only a consequence of the manifestations of this process. The aging processes affect the entire body and are reflected in the skin in the most deplorable way. Age-related changes occur in all layers of the skin. The amount of water in the epidermis decreases, which leads to peeling, a violation of keratinization and desquamation of the epithelium. As a result of this, the epidermis becomes thinner, a network of fine wrinkles is formed, the skin becomes wrinkled, age spots appear. But regardless of the age and condition of the skin, it requires constant care, without which no cosmetologist can help.

Known cosmetic product for skin care (RU No. 2062092, class A61K 7/06, 06/20/96,), containing biologically active additives in the form of a complex of water-alcohol-glycerin plant extracts, organic acid, including succinic, perfumes, water and other cosmetic additives. Organic acids in this composition play the role of activators of metabolic processes, cleanse the pores of the skin of the face, and have bactericidal properties.

However, the known agent does not allow it to significantly manifest its energy properties at the intracellular level.

A known method of skin rejuvenation (RU 2383341, class A61K 31/498; A61P 43/00, 2010), comprising treating the skin in the face, neck, décolleté and / or hands, which is carried out in two stages by the sequential introduction of hyaluronic acid by applying to the skin of the first and second cosmetic compositions. In this case, the first cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid is used in the form of ultrafine particles. At the first stage, hyaluronic acid is introduced into the composition of the first cosmetic composition in the form of a gel and / or serum containing hyaluronic acid and / or its derivatives in an amount of from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, at the second stage, a second cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid and / or its derivatives in an amount of from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, is introduced using means of application. The application of the second cosmetic composition is carried out directly on the area previously treated with the first composition without washing it off. The exposure time of the second cosmetic composition is at least 15 minutes Skin treatment is carried out in courses of 10-15 sessions 1-2 times a year.

However, hyaluronic acid is in the skin for a short time (7-14 days), therefore, to obtain the desired effect, it must be constantly administered. In this regard, the procedure of this method of rejuvenation will not be effective enough.

The prototype of the invention is a method of skin rejuvenation (RU 2253437, class A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, 2005), including sequential treatment of the skin of the face, neck and décolleté with cosmetics, first, skin is removed with a cleansing milk with fruit acids, then wipe the skin with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids, apply a fat cream to the eyelids, lips and nose, then for deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum, a foaming scrub with fruit acids is applied to the skin and then glycol peeling is carried out for 2- 5 minutes, then a neutralizing mask is applied and soaked until absorbed, after which for 10-15 minutes a soothing mask is used to relieve irritation, then the skin is wiped with a non-alcoholic tonic with fruit acids and SPF-50 sunscreen is applied. Peeling is carried out with 20% or 35% glycolic pH 1.73 and pH 1.63, respectively. The procedures are carried out in courses of 5-10 sessions 1-2 times a year in the autumn-winter period, the frequency of procedures is 1-2 times a week.

The disadvantage of this method is its low efficiency due to the fact that peeling is superficial.

The objective of the invention is to develop a method of skin rejuvenation to achieve the effect of median peeling.

The result of the invention is to increase the anti-aging effect.

The task and, as a result, the result is achieved by the fact that the method of correcting aesthetic and age-related skin problems involves sequential treatment of the face, neck and décolleté skin with cosmetics by means of skin removal with cleansing milk, followed by deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum with fruit acids, glycolic peeling and post-peeling neutralization and post-peeling care. According to the invention, peeling is carried out in stages, and in the first stage, the skin is treated with a cream-exfoliant with 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids in a ratio of 3: 2 and kept on the skin for 3-4 minutes, in the second stage, 25% almond-apple is applied to skimmed skin peeling, which is held on the skin for 10-15 minutes, at the third stage, 1 to 6 layers of 50% glycolic acid are applied to previously treated skin with each layer being aged for 5-6 minutes, followed by skin neutralization.

At the first stage, a mixture of cream - exfoliant with 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids is applied to the skin of the face, neck and décolleté, peeling along the massage lines for 1-2 minutes, and rinsing after aging 3-4 minutes. At the second stage, before applying the almond-apple peeling, the skin is degreased with an alcohol-containing preparation, and before washing off, the skin is neutralized with a post-peeling with an alkali-containing neutralizing agent. Almond-apple peeling is mainly applied to the skin with a fan brush. Layers of 50% glycolic acid on the skin are incubated for 5-6 minutes for each layer.

The method of rejuvenation is preferably carried out at least 1 time per week by a course of 10-12 procedures in the autumn-winter period.

Introduced into the cream - exfoliant of 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids, it is possible to effectively solve the problem of premature aging: evens out facial tone, deeply moisturizes, brightens age spots, activates the regeneration process, strengthens the collagen frame of the dermis and increases local immunity. The penetration of subsequent care products is improved. This ratio of ingredients 3: 2 allows you to prepare the skin for the transition from surface peeling to the middle. Sustaining the composition of the components of the cream with serum for 3-4 minutes provides sufficient skin preparation for subsequent peeling. At the same time, exposure to the skin composition less than 3 minutes will be ineffective, and exceeding the time of more than 4 minutes can cause unwanted skin irritation.

Skin treatment in the second stage with 25% almond-apple peeling with exposure to the skin for 10-15 minutes is used for intensive cellular renewal and improvement of the skin condition. Almond-apple peeling has a good keratolytic and anti-inflammatory effect, increases skin hydration and evens out the microrelief. As a result of using this product, wrinkle depth decreases, skin elasticity increases, and complexion improves. This stage allows you to switch from surface peeling to median peeling by lowering the pH of the skin. In this case, the exposure of almond-malic acid on the skin should be from 10 to 15 minutes. If the exposure is less than 10 minutes, then the desired effect is not achieved due to the shallow penetration of acid into the dermis of the skin, and exceeding 15 minutes can lead to severe skin irritation.

The layered application of 50% glycolic acid will even out the relief, affects biostimulation and skin hydration. Provides uniform exfoliation of keratinized cells, enhances the penetration of active substances into the skin, stimulates the process of cell renewal and regeneration, smoothes surface wrinkles, activates fibroblasts. As a result of the use of glycolic peeling, the degree of hydration of the epidermis increases, the synthesis of ceramides is restored, the biosynthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans is stimulated, the complexion and skin texture improve. And the exposure of the layers for 5-6 minutes provides a deep penetration of the active ingredients. The number of layers from 1 to 6 gives the optimal effect and allows you to achieve a slightly acidic pH.

A method for correcting aesthetic and age-related skin problems is illustrated by the following examples.

Example No. 1.

Patient, 40 years old. There were pronounced nasolabial folds, PTOS of the lower part of the face, loose skin of the entire face and enlarged pores.

Previously, surface cleansing of the skin with cleansing milk was performed. At the first stage, a cream - exfoliant of 3 ml was mixed with 2 ml of 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids (AHA) and applied to the skin of the face, neck and décolleté. Within 1-2 minutes, the hands were peeled along the massage lines, after which the applied product was left for 3 minutes, and then washed off with water. At the second stage, the skin was previously degreased with pre-peeling and an almond-apple peeling of 25% was applied with a fan brush and left for 15 minutes. Then they neutralized it with a post-peeling neutralizer and washed off with water. In the third step, 50% glycolic acid was applied. The 1st layer was kept for 5 minutes, and then the 2nd layer, etc., was applied. up to 5 layers. The application time of all layers was 25 minutes. Then they were neutralized with a post-peeling neutralizer and washed off well with water. Then, standard skin care procedures used after peelings were performed. A soothing mask was applied for 10 minutes, after which it was washed off, then massage of the care area was performed with massage cream and the remaining cream was washed off again, then serum and the final cream were applied. The duration of the procedure is 70-80 minutes, the course on the recommendation of a cosmetologist was 10-12 procedures with a frequency of 1 time per week.

To identify the effectiveness of the method, tests were performed on Multi Dermascop® MDS 800 instruments with an integrated LCD monitor 6 to determine moisture, elasticity and oily skin, pigmentation and skin peeling. To determine the acid-base indicator of the skin, a standard pH meter (pH 009) is used.

An analysis of the results of objective research methods showed that under the action of a complex of acids for peeling, the moisture measurement index increased significantly compared to the initial level and amounted to 42% of the initial value. The study of skin elasticity showed that it also significantly increased compared to the initial level and amounted to 12.8%, which is a high efficiency indicator for this parameter. When analyzing the profile profile of facial skin, it was found that this complex of acids corrects wrinkles and evens out the skin texture.

Example No. 2.

A 48-year-old patient requested a conservative method of face lifting, as according to the anamnesis, she could not have performed anesthesia surgery.

The method was carried out analogously to example 1, but in the second stage AHA almond-apple peeling 25%, in the 1st and 2nd procedure was left for 10 minutes, and in the subsequent exposure time was increased to 15 minutes. In the third stage, 50% glycol peeling in the 1st and 2nd procedure, 3 layers were applied for 5 minutes each, the exposure time was 15 minutes, and in subsequent procedures, the application was increased to 5 layers, the exposure time increased to 25 minutes. The course consisted of 7 procedures. With the recommendation of a second course after 1 month.

Analysis of the results of objective research methods showed that under the action of a complex of acids for peeling, the moisture measurement index significantly increased compared to the initial level and amounted to 40% of the initial value. The study of skin elasticity showed that it also significantly increased compared to the initial level and amounted to 11%, which is a high efficiency indicator for this parameter. When analyzing the profile profile of facial skin, it was found that this complex of acids corrects wrinkles and evens out the skin texture.

Example No. 3.

Patient, 50 years old. Symptoms of aging facial skin: the appearance of wrinkles in the form of “crow's feet” in the area of the outer corners of the eyes, wrinkles on the forehead, deepening of the nasolabial folds, the presence of areas of increased dryness of the skin. The method was carried out analogously to example 1, but in the third stage, when applying 50% glycol peeling, 6 layers were required, the exposure time of all layers was 30 minutes, because the patient experienced increased dry skin. The number of procedures was done 12.

An analysis of the results of objective research methods showed that under the action of a complex of acids for peeling, the moisture measurement index increased significantly compared to the initial level and amounted to 45% of the initial value. The study of skin elasticity showed that it also significantly increased compared to the initial level and amounted to 12.5%, which is a high efficiency indicator for this parameter. The degree of exfoliation was 40%, which is a good result. When analyzing the profile profile of facial skin, it was found that this complex of acids corrects wrinkles and evens out the skin texture.

Example No. 4.

Patient, 60 years old. The skin of the face is tired, fading, has a grayish tint, opaque, turgor is reduced, there are radial wrinkles, wrinkles on the forehead and pronounced nasolabial folds around the eyes.

The method was carried out analogously to example 1, but the application time of each layer in the third stage, 50% glycol peeling, was increased to 6 minutes, thereby the total exposure was 30 minutes. A course of 12 procedures with the recommendation of a second course in 1 month.

Analysis of the results of objective research methods showed that under the action of a complex of acids for peeling, the moisture measurement index increased significantly compared to the initial level and amounted to 44% of the initial value. The study of skin elasticity showed that it also significantly increased compared to the initial level and amounted to 12.8%, which is a high efficiency indicator for this parameter. The degree of exfoliation was 38%, which is a good result. When analyzing the profile profile of facial skin, it was found that this complex of acids corrects wrinkles and evens out the skin texture.

In the process of studying the anti-aging mechanisms of the proposed method, a group of patients in the amount of 37 people was observed. Using these devices and having done a lot of research in an attempt to solve the aforementioned problem, we found that this method has an increased effect of exfoliating and moisturizing the skin with less irritating effect than median peeling. The complex of acids for peeling leads to the correction of aesthetic and age-related skin problems and enhances the effect of a single component. Studies on the skin of people of different ages have shown that using a complex of acids for surface peeling, a median peeling effect is achieved, but with a less irritating effect on the skin. This effect is achieved due to the stable value of slightly acidic pH. The research result is shown in the table.

Using a complex of peeling acids, the following cosmetic effects are achieved:

- a stable value of slightly acidic pH leads to a deeper penetration of acids, which allows to obtain a good anti-aging effect;

- skin lightening (removal of the effect of photoaging and pigmentation);

- preparation of the skin before subsequent procedures (for example, mesotherapy).

All noted pronounced cosmetic effect. In no case was there a deterioration in the condition of patients or changes in the condition of the skin for the worse, allergic reactions, dermatitis.

Currently, the method of correcting aesthetic and age-related skin problems has been tested in a beauty salon and has shown good results:

- the peeling acid complex has good organoleptic properties, with prolonged skin application it does not have an irritating and allergic effect;

- after applying this peeling acid complex, a high esthetic effect was noted, while the facial skin becomes more supple, smoother and more elastic, the complexion of the face has evened out, and it takes on a healthy and well-groomed appearance.

Claims (6)

1. A method of correcting aesthetic and age-related skin problems, including sequential treatment of the face, neck and décolleté skin with cosmetics by means of skin removal with cleansing milk, followed by deep cleansing and exfoliation of the stratum corneum with fruit acids, glycol peeling and post-peeling neutralization and post-peeling care, characterized the fact that peeling is carried out in stages, and at the first stage the skin is treated with a cream-exfoliant mixture with 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids in accordance stitching 3: 2 and soak on the skin for 3-4 minutes, at the second stage, 25% almond-apple peeling is applied to fat-free skin, which is kept on the skin for 10-15 minutes, at the third stage, from 1 to 6 are applied to previously treated skin layers of 50% glycolic acid with exposure of each layer for 5-6 minutes, followed by neutralization of the skin. 2. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that at the first stage a mixture of cream - exfoliant with 12% serum alpha hydroxide acids is applied to the skin of the face, neck and decollete, for 1-2 minutes they are peeled with hands using massage lines, and after extracts are washed off for 3-4 minutes. 3. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that in the second stage, before applying the almond-apple peeling, the skin is degreased with an alcohol-containing preparation, and before washing off the skin is neutralized with a post-peeling neutralizing agent with an alkali-containing agent. 4. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the almond-apple peeling on the skin is applied with a fan brush. 5. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that each layer of 50% glycolic acid on the skin can withstand for 5-6 minutes. 6. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that it is carried out 1 time per week by a course of 10-12 procedures in the autumn-winter period.