RU2212229C1 - Diurnal recovering cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: invention relates to an anti-stress cosmetic agent designated for the face skin care. Diurnal recovering cream comprising apricot oil or avocado oil, or reach oil, or shi oil as an oily phase, structure-forming emulsifying agents, film-forming, gelling agents, triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, wetting additions, preserving agents, perfume composition and water contains additionally anti-stress complex-2, vitamins A, E and coneflower an aqueous-alcoholic-glycerol extract. Cream provides skin relaxation, to reduce stress and fatigue, to remove toxins from skin forming in cutaneous cells as result of negative effect of environment. EFFECT: valuable cosmetic and medicinal properties of cream. 2 tbl, 4 ex

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to anti-stress cosmetics intended for facial skin care.

 To protect the skin, enhance the formation of new cells and improve its appearance, vitamin C is introduced into cosmetic creams.

 Known cosmetic products with vitamin C: therapeutic and cosmetic composition [1] in the form of an emulsion, including ricinoleic acid, glycerin, vitamin C, vegetable and essential oils and polyethylene oxide gel. The composition has antibacterial, fungicidal, antiviral and regenerative effects on the skin and mucous membranes.

 Protective and preventive cream [2] contains vaseline oil, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ascorbic acid, tea tree oil, whey proteins, distilled water. The cream improves the metabolic and reparative functions of the skin, increasing the effectiveness of the prevention and treatment of occupational dermatoses.

 However, vitamin C is unstable. It loses its properties in contact with water and air. Therefore, to include vitamin C in the new Synergy C moisturizer, GARNIER Laboratories, Paris, they found a way to create a compound of vitamin C with glucose, which, when it enters the skin, reacts with the enzyme glucosidase contained in it. The result of this reaction is the release of pure Vitamin C - a concentrate of freshness, energy, tone and vitality for the skin. The cream contains natural oils: apricot, shea (Karite).

 The type of emulsion oil / water and its composition is the closest to the claimed cream is Sinergi (moisturizing with vitamin C) GARNIER Laboratory, Paris, selected as a prototype.

 Ingredients: water, cyclohexasiloxane, glycerin, apricot oil (Prunus Armeniaca), sorbitan stearate, stearyl alcohol, methylglucet-20, ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, ascorbyl glucoside, shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii), C.I. 14700, C.I. 47005, Citrus Dulds, EDTA dysodium (Trilon B), octyl methoxy cinnamate, Sucrose Cocoate, terephthalilidene dicamphor sulfonate acid, triethanolamine, xanthan gum, imidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, perfume composition.

 Women living in megacities, leading an active lifestyle - business women are familiar with fatigue, stress, and harmful effects on the skin of the environment. It is for them that a comprehensive anti-stress program with vitamin C called "Business Woman" has been developed that allows you to relax the skin, reduce stress and fatigue, rid it of toxins that form in the skin cells due to the negative effects of the environment.

 Therefore, the inventors set the task of enhancing the protective functions of the cream by creating an anti-stress daily restorative cream with the help of the complex effect of the target biologically active additives - anti-stress complex-2, vitamins, natural oils and plant extracts.

 The anti-stress complex-2 is the first to receive and suppress wave impacts of an aggressive environment, shea butter, penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, carries vitamins A, E, C along with it, preventing the formation of free radicals. Marine proteins of anti-stress complex-2, including collagen and elastin, strengthen the epidermis, increase skin resistance and elasticity. Thus, a complex effect is achieved on all skin layers from the epidermis to the basal layers.

 The difference of the claimed daily repair cream from the prototype is presented in table 1.

 The prototype cream contains the oil phase - apricot oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers - xanthan gum, sorbitan stearate, stearyl alcohol, Sucrose Cocoate, film-forming - cyclohexasiloxane, gelling agent - ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, neutralizing glycerol-20 - hydrochloride - , biologically active additives - vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside), Citrus Dulcis, UV filters - octyl methoxy cinnamate, terephthalilidene dimcamphor sulfonic acid, softener - trilon B, preservatives imidazolidinyl -urea, methylparaben, propylparaben, C.I. 14700 and C.I. 47005, perfume composition and water.

 The composition of the inventive daily restorative cream introduced anti-stress complex-2, consisting of fine linen microfibers, characterized by unique biomechanical properties: simultaneous compression and stretching. The fiber acts as an absorber of external wave impacts.

 When using a cream containing anti-stress complex-2, skin resistance increases, the epidermis softens and skin elasticity is strengthened.

 Shea butter is used as a carrier for active ingredients. It promotes their delivery to deeper layers of the skin.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the claimed daily regenerating cream containing the oil phase is apricot oil or avocado oil, or peach oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers, film-forming, gelling agents, triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide, moisturizing additives - methyl glucose-20, distilled or propylene glycol glycerol, vitamin C, preservatives - methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, CI 17200 and CI 47005, perfume composition and water, characterized in that the additive but contains anti-stress complex-2, vitamins A, E, extract of echinacea in propylene glycol, or extract of echinacea water-alcohol, or extract of echinacea water-alcohol-glycerol, as an oil phase capryl / caprine triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol and ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, as film-forming components - dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone, as gelling - carbopol or carbomer, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R, as moisturizing additives additionally contains allantoin, ascorbylphosphate or magnesium ascorbylphosphate as vitamin C - sodium, ascorbylphosphate additionally contains preservatives, bronitrol or bronopol, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II in the following ratio, wt.%:
Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 - 2.00-8.00
Methyl glucose sesquistearate - 1.00-3.00
Methyl Glucet-20 - 0.50-3.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 1.00-4.00
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - 0.50-3.00
Dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone - 1.00-5.00
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil - 1.00-4.00
Shea Butter - 0.50-2.00
Vitamin A - 0.20-2.00
Vitamin E - 0.20-2.00
Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) - 0.20-0.70
Anti-stress complex-2 - 1.00-4.00
Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or Echinacea water-alcohol extract, or Echinacea water-alcohol glycerin extract - 0.50-3.00
Distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol - 1.00-5.00
Allantoin - 0.10-0.50
Carbopol, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10-1.00
Triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or technical caustic soda - 0.10-1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Bronopol, or Bronitrol, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II - 0.01-0.50
Dye CI 17200, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Dye CI 47005, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - up to 100.00
Cream preparation is carried out according to the following technology.

In the preparatory boiler for the preparation of the fat phase, cetearyl alcohol and cetearet-20, methyl sulphate stearate, glucose / capric triglyceride, shea butter, isopropyl palmitate, vitamins A, E, cyclomethicone are loaded and heated to a temperature of 75-80 ^o C.

Water and carbopol are charged into the reactor, heated to a temperature of 30-50 ^{° C.} and stirred until the carbopol is completely dissolved. Then glycerin, methyl glucet-20 are added and heated to a temperature of 70-75 ^o C.

 When the set temperature is reached, molten fatty raw materials, apricot oil, allantoin are fed into the reactor from the preparatory boiler, and a mixture of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters is charged.

Emulsification of the cream is carried out at a temperature of 75-80 ^o C for 35-40 minutes At the end, cooling is turned on and triethanolamine is added at a temperature of 60-65 ^{° C.} , then an anti-stress complex-2, echinacea extract, a solution of vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), dye solutions and bronopol.

Upon reaching 30 ^o With enter the perfume composition.

 The finished cream after 2 hours is analyzed, then pumped into a collection container for storage and served on the packaging.

 The cream is a homogeneous mass from white to cream in color with an exquisite and sophisticated aroma, combining the freshness of lemon, orange, bergamot with warm floral shades of ylang-ylang, white lily, jasmine and notes of musk, cedar wood and cloves.

 The cream compositions for several examples are shown in table 2.

 Description of the main raw materials used in the inventive cream.

 The oil phase is formed by shea butter, apricot, or avocado, or peach, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate.

 Shea butter is extracted from the pulp of the seeds of the shea tree, which grows over a vast area in the wooded savannah between Senegal and Nigeria. Almost half of the content of the pulp of the bone falls on the share of "oil". Shea butter is the foundation of African pharmacology. For example, it is used as a decongestant and anti-inflammatory agent for sprains and joint pain.

Shea butter (Shea butter - Butyrospermum parkii) is a cream-colored granular oil consisting mainly of triglycerides (up to 80%) and unsaponifiable fats (up to 17%). The composition of shea butter obtained by squeezing:
Oleic - 40-55%
Stearic - 35-45%
Palmitic - 3%
Unsaponifiable fats (mainly caristerols - α-spinasterol, Δ ⁷ - stigmasterol; parkol; lupeol; butyrospermol - Up to 17%
Nowhere is the reputation of shea butter as a protective and emollient more than in skin care.

 Unsaponifiable fats, which are part of shea butter, exhibit regenerative properties, affecting collagen synthesis. In addition, they have the properties of UV filters. This makes shea butter a promising component of regenerative and anti-age compositions, as confirmed by clinical studies. Triglycerides, which contain essential fatty acids, have a plasticizing effect and affect the barrier properties of the skin.

 Due to the unique combination of unsaponifiable fats and essential triglycerides of fatty acids, shea butter is an excellent active ingredient for cosmetics. Shea butter is well distributed and quickly absorbed into the skin, leaving a pleasant feeling of smoothness on the skin and softens it.

 Shea butter is a versatile active ingredient with an excellent emollient and moisturizing effect and the ability to slow down aging. By its qualities, it is in no way inferior to any of the known emollients. The introduction of environmentally friendly shea butter in a cosmetic product dramatically increases its competitiveness in the current market for environmentally friendly products.

 In his dissertation on pharmacy, Renard provided a detailed description of the effects of shea butter in case of aging skin.

A clinical study was conducted on 30 volunteers aged 29 to 82 years. Shea butter was used as a balm with daily massage for 4-8 months. Significant improvement was observed in various skin conditions:
- appearance: after a few weeks, the skin, which was previously rough and dull gray, became smoother and lighter;
- the fight against “thinning” of the skin, improving its structure: a regenerating effect was observed, possibly associated with the action of unsaponifiable fats, which, as you know, activate collagen synthesis;
- Wrinkles resulting from prolonged exposure to the sun have clearly decreased in half of the volunteers.

 The use of shea butter as a carrier for active ingredients can facilitate their delivery to deeper layers of the skin [3].

 Structural emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate.

Methyl glucosides: methyl glucose-20 (Glucam E-20 ^® ), used as an emollient in the cream, and methyl glucose sesquistearate (Glucate SS ^® ), a structure-forming emulsifier, are obtained from corn grain.

Of the natural methyl glucosides, the American company Amerchol ^{® has} developed and produces a whole series of glucoside derivatives - soft, natural, economical.

Methylglucose sesquistearate (Glucate SS ^® ) is a non-ionic emulsifier used to form water / oil emulsions, ensuring the safety of cosmetic products and significantly exceeding other emulsifiers in terms of performance.

 The tests performed - skin applications - showed the absence of excitability and sensitization when using Glucate SS in cosmetics for daily use. This glucoside is economical and multifunctional, as it provides effective emulsification and stability of emulsions at low concentrations.

 Film-forming components are dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone (by force). They are a composition based on dimethyl siloxanes (dimethicone) and cyclomethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone). Grades A, B, C, D, D are produced with dimethicone content,%: 10, 30. 50, 70, 90, respectively, the rest is cyclomethicone.

 Thanks to the film-forming components, the cream has a prolonged effect, the fresh complexion lasts longer and skin elasticity is maintained.

 Moisturizing components are selected from the group consisting of glycerol or propylene glycol, allantoin and methyl glucose-20 (Glucam E-20).

Methyl Glucet-20 (Glucam E-20 ^® ) is an active moisturizer that does not collapse under pressure.

 In creams and lotions, Glucam E-20 is a particularly effective moisturizer. Its activity plays a decisive role in protecting the skin from drying out under solar radiation. It gives creams lightness, soothes the skin, its moisturizing effect is stored on the skin for a long time after applying the cream.

 Dietary supplements are selected from the group consisting of anti-stress complex-2 (Mythuline), vitamin C in the stabilized form of sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins A, E, echinacea extract.

 Anti-stress complex-2 (Mythuline) - fine linen - is a plant fiber obtained from the edible mollusks Mytilus edulis, which provides the adhesion strength of vibrations as well as the resistance to wave action.

 The fiber has amazing biomechanical properties: simultaneous compression and stretching, it acts as an absorber of external wave impacts.

 Fine linen is characterized by the presence of various types of proteins that structure microfibers. The proximal portion is rich in elastin peptides, while the distal portion is rich in collagen peptides. The surface of the microfibers is coated with fibroin, similar to silk fibroin.

 The principal role of silk microfibers is to increase the elasticity and increase the resistance of fine linen, the filaments of which are no less than 5 times longer than the Achilles tendon.

 Fibroin - the main component of silk thread - has a fibrous, elastic and shiny texture. The specific properties of fibroin are due to the trihedral shape of its fibers. Like a prism, fibroin fibers reflect light in a special manner, giving it luminescence.

 Elastin is the main component of the proximal part of the fiber. This part provides elasticity to the fiber, it can stretch up to 160% of the original length.

 The fine linen collagen is located behind the central elastin region, unlike natural protein fibers, in which the collagen part forms the core.

Marine proteins, including collagen and elastin peptides, have the following properties:
- increase skin resistance;
- mitigation of the epidermis;
- strengthening skin elasticity;
- Strengthening the hair structure.

 It is recommended for use in anti-stress creams to prevent external stressful effects or during sudden weight fluctuations caused by pregnancy or diet.

Based on materials from Seporga laboratory, France
Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or echinacea extract water-alcohol, or echinacea extract water-alcohol-glycerin
Echinacea purpurea - Echinacea purpurea Moench /
Echinacea narrow-leaved - Echinacea angustifolia D.C.

 All plant organs contain essential oil, the main part of which is non-cyclic sesquiterpene, the roots contain the glycoside echinacoside, betaine, resin, which contains palmitic, linoleic, cerotinic and other acids.

 Both types of plants have high bactericidal properties. They are used as an antiseptic for external and internal use. Inside prescribed for infectious and septic conditions; externally - with carbuncles, abscesses and infected wounds.

 Juice from fresh inflorescences activates blood coagulation, when applied topically, it stimulates tissue granulation and phagocyte activity - it accelerates wound healing, epithelization in burns of the I-III degree and severe bedsores. In the treatment of burns, an analgesic effect is also noted [4].

 As bioadditives, apricot, peach, or avocado oils used in the inventive cream can also be considered.

Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate)
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a sodium salt of a stable derivative of vitamin C.

 Vitamin C is an excellent active substance for skin care. It protects the skin, activates the formation of new cells and improves its appearance.

 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, manufactured by BASF AG, Germany, is stable in ready-made cosmetic forms.

Ascorbyl phosphate is broken down into enzymes in the skin. Vitamin C is released and has an effective effect:
- as an antioxidant, it protects cells from the harmful effects of free radicals;
- due to the ability to activate collagen formation in the dermis, it slows down the aging process;
- acting on the formation of melanin, it reduces hyperpigmentation, age spots, brightens the skin.

 Preservatives are selected from the group consisting of Bronitrol, or Bronopol, or Hermaben II, methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, or CATON CG.

 The inventive daily restorative cream has undergone toxicological and clinical trials at the accredited testing laboratory center of the Institute of Beauty.

 Toxicological studies have shown that the cream does not have a general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 patients for 30 days. Tests have shown that the cream is harmless, does not have an irritating and allergenic effect and is intended for skin care.

Sources of information
1. Pat. RF 2166309, cl. 7 A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, 31/23 published on 05/10/2001. Bull. thirteen.

 2. Pat. RF 2164403, class 7 A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, 7/40, published 03/27/2001. Bull. 9.

 3. Cosmetics & Medicine. Ed. LLC Firm Klavel, 1/2000 s. 33-39.

 4. Volynsky B. G. and others. Plants in medicine, Izd. Saratov University, 1989, p. 349.

Claims (1)

Daytime repair cream containing the oil phase - apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers, film-forming, gelling agents, triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide, moisturizing additives - methyl glucose-20, distilled glycerin or propylene glycol, vitamin C, preservatives - methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, CI 17200 and CI 47005, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains anti-stress complex-2, vitamins A, E, Echinacea extract in propylene glycol or Echinacea extract water-alcohol, or Echinacea extract water-alcohol-glycerin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate as a structure-forming glucose-tearing agent, as an oil phase , as film-forming components - dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone, as gelling - carbopol, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R, additionally contains all Antoin, as vitamin C - sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, additionally contains bronitrol, or bronopol, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II as preservatives in the following ratio of components, wt. %:
Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 - 2.00-8.00
Methyl glucose sesquistearate - 1.00-3.00
Methyl Glucet-20 - 0.50-3.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 1.00-4.00
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - 0.50-3.00
Dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone - 1.00-5.00
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil - 1.00-4.00
Shea Butter - 0.50-2.00
Vitamin A - 0.20-2.00
Vitamin E - 0.20-2.00
Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) - 0.20-0.70
Anti-stress complex-2 - 1.00-4.00
Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or Echinacea water-alcohol extract, or Echinacea water-alcohol glycerin extract - 0.50-3.00
Distilled glycerin or propylene glycol - 1.00-5.00
Allantoin - 0.10-0.50
Carbopol, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10-1.00
Triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide technical - 0.10-1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Bronopol, or Bronitrol, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II - 0.01-0.50
Dye S. I. 17200, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Dye S. I. 47005, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - Up to 100.00

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