RU2411934C1 - Shampoo for hair washing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine. ^ SUBSTANCE: invention relates to field of cosmetology, in particular, deals with shampoo for hair washing, containing surface-active substance, biologically active additive, fir oil, characterised by the fact that it additionally contains PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG-:caprylic/capric glycerides), glycerate-2 cocoate, as palmarosa oil and fresh birch sap, as surface-active substance; it contains laurylglucoside carboxylate, as biologically active additive - dried birch bark extract (betulin), storage of birch sap from the moment of obtaining does not exceeding 48 hours. ^ EFFECT: invention ensures hypoallergic shampoo, efficient in solution of wide range of head hair and skin problems, such as dandruff, hair loss, dermatologic deseases ^ 5 ex, 4 tbl

Description

The invention relates to cosmetics for hair and scalp care and can be used in the manufacture of shampoos and other detergents, as well as balms and lotions to improve the condition of human hair and skin.

The changing attitude of consumers to the quality of hair, the frequency of their washing, the impact of environmental and weather factors require the search for new effective hair care products both to protect against negative effects and to restore already damaged hair. Particular attention has recently been paid to the safety and health safety of the ingredients used in such products. This is due, on the one hand, to the accumulation of data on the consequences of the use of certain chemicals in cosmetics and, on the other hand, to a change in the perception of the admissibility of side effects of the use of these chemicals and as a result of the constant tightening of the norms and requirements for ingredients for shampoos and other cosmetics for hair.

It is known that high demands are made on hair washing products: pleasant smell, light color and transparency, they must have good fluidity and high foaming ability; they should be easily washed off the hair, not have a harmful and irritating effect on the skin and hair, to facilitate the quick drying of the hair after washing and the appearance of shine on them. The production of hair washing products should take into account their features. In some cases, when shampoos are intended for washing oily hair, it is required that the shampoo remove excess fat from the hair of the skin; in others, when making shampoos for washing dry hair, it is required that a thin, greasy film remain on the hair after washing. Various additives are introduced into some liquid soaps — higher fatty alcohols, castor oil, saponins, tar, plant extracts, etc. [Handbook on soap production. Ed. Ph.D. Tovbina I.M. - M .: Food industry, 1974, S. 414-416].

Currently, the industry produces a huge number of shampoos, which differ in the composition of various additives, which make it possible to obtain satisfactory consumer properties, such as detergents, disinfectants, and aromatic properties.

However, in order for the shampoo to match the specified type of hair, manufacturers have to use various, not at all harmless, chemical additives. For example, shampoos for colored hair require a more acidic environment to preserve the color of hair than shampoos for other types of hair; for this, citric acid is usually added to the water. And so for all types of hair: for dry hair add replenishes, for dandruff - zinc preparations. Even the water that is used in the manufacture of hair cosmetics undergoes chemical treatment: chlorination, demineralization, etc. In this sense, shampoos and other products for hair and scalp that are currently being produced are completely a chemical product.

Known means for hair care in the form of shampoo containing one or more surfactants, a preservative, a pH stabilizer, an extract of plant materials [see description of the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2283082, M.cl. A61K 8/97, publ. 06/10/2006], as well as a foam stabilizer, a grease additive, a target additive to improve the hair structure, conditioner, water softener and perfume. At the same time, the extract of plant materials was used as a vitamin supplement in the form of a water-alcohol or water-alcohol-glycerin substance, and as an aqueous medium, it contains a decoction of herbs obtained by maceration of crushed plant materials in a fluidized bed under vacuum, followed by preservation with an alcohol-containing composition. As surfactants, the shampoo contains hydroxyethylated lauryl sulfate and alkylamidopropylbentaines, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate as the target additive, coconut fatty acid diethanolamides as a foam stabilizer, hydroxylpropyl guar hydroxylpropyltrimonium chloride or 10 polyquaternium as a conditioner pH stabilizer - citric acid, as a preservative - methylchloroisothiazolinone and / or methylisothiazolinone, as a grease - sodium chloride, soften as I water - disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid, 2-aqueous.

The technical solution described above, according to the applicants, has improved therapeutic and prophylactic properties that reduce the likelihood of hair and scalp diseases, eliminate signs of their disease, and provide a wide range of consumers with conditions for systematic healthy hair care with various signs of damage.

However, the use of oxyethylated lauryl sulfate in shampoo, which causes severe irritation of the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes (up to vision loss with long-term application), destroys the protein compounds of hair keratin - all this is harm to the hair and skin when washed, regardless of the positive effect of the vitamin supplement.

Known universal deactivating shampoo containing diethanolamide fatty acids, dye, perfume [see description of the patent of Ukraine for utility model No. 26693, M.cl. A61K 8/00, publ. 10.10.2007,], as well as sodium lauryl diethoxysulfate, a vitamin composition, water, as well as a natural absorbent - pectin extract, panthenol - a vitamin supplement, lauric acid diethanolamide, zinc pyrithionate, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium benzoate, citric acid, sodium chloride, concentrate pearlescent impurities, texalon and acylaminoethyl-N-hydroxyethylcarboxyglycinate. Tests of the shampoo according to the recipe with an average amount of components showed that due to the presence of pectin extract, sample No. 1 has a radioprotective ability 10 times greater compared to shampoo that does not have pectin extract. The total complex ability of shampoo with pectin in relation to heavy metals is 10 times greater than that of samples not containing pectin. Therefore, the flushing of harmful substances in comparison with conventional means has a 20 times greater effect.

However, the technical solution described above is a highly specialized, radioprotective product, obviously not intended for daily use, which allowed the use of harsh detergents. These substances have good foaming and washing ability, but the flip side is the almost complete destruction along with impurities and the natural antibacterial environment on the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to add antibacterial substances to such shampoos, as in this case zinc pyrithionate. Such a solution is acceptable in the case of shampoo designed to decontaminate radioactive contamination, but is not suitable for daily use, especially for people with sensitive skin or dermatological problems of the scalp.

The closest to the claimed solution for the purpose, technical nature and the achieved result when using is a shampoo for washing hair containing a surfactant, a biologically active additive, fir oil [see RF patent No. 2063745, M.cl. A61K 7/075, publ. July 20, 1996]. The shampoo contains, as a surfactant, sodium oxyethylated lauryl sulfate, a synthetic fatty acid, C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ synthetic fatty acids, a pH regulator, citric acid, a preservative glidant, dyes tertrazine and turquoise blue, as well as salt and water. in the following quantitative ratio of components in wt.%: sodium lauryl sulfate, ethoxylated 6.0-8.0; lauryl ethoxysulfosuccinate disodium salt 6.0-8.0; diethanolamides of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ 2.5-4.0; citric acid 0.1-0.2; table salt 2.0-4.0; fir oil 0.05-0.1; glidant 0.2-0.4; tetrazine 0.002-0.0025; turquoise blue 0,0002-0,00025; Trilon B 0.1-0.2 and water - the rest.

The implementation of the technical solution described above allows you to get a beautiful color shampoo with a pleasant smell. Shampoo is easy to apply on the hair, forms a rich foam. After drying, the hair is easily combed without the formation of an electrostatic charge.

However, as in previous cases, the cosmetic effect is achieved through the use of limitedly safe ingredients. In addition to the sodium lauryl sulfate mentioned, preservatives and dyes are used in this solution. Preservatives are generally toxic and, under certain circumstances, can cause allergic or dermatological reactions.

Therefore, the purpose of the proposed technical solution is to create a tool for hair and scalp (shampoo, conditioner, etc.), safe for human health and more biologically active than known shampoos.

This goal is achieved by the fact that in the well-known hair washing shampoo containing a surfactant, a biologically active additive fir oil, according to the invention additionally contains fresh birch sap, PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG-: capric / capric glycerides), glycerate-2 cocoate, palmmarose oil and, as a surfactant, lauryl glucoside carboxylate, biologically active additives, dry birch bark extract (betulin), and birch sap aging from the moment of receipt does not exceed 48 hours, etc. following quantitative ratio of components, wt.%

fresh birch juice 70.5-72.5 birch bark extract (betulin) 0.05-0.20 PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG-: Capric / Capric Glycerides) 0.50-0.60, glycerate-2 cocoate 2.60-3.00, lauryl glucoside carboxylate 0.80-1.20, cocoamphomonoacetate sodium 5.00-5.4 sodium cocoglutamate 2.20-2.40, glyceryl cocoate PEG-7 1.40-1.60, xanthan gum 0.2 -0.3, allantoin 0.14-0.16, fir oil 0.08-0.12 palmmarose oil 0.08-0.12. cocamidopropyl betaine rest

As can be seen from the statement of the essence of the claimed technical solution, it differs from the prototype and, therefore, is new.

The technical solution has an inventive step. The basis of the invention is the task of improving shampoo, in which, due to the use of a carboxylate lauryl glucoside, lauryl glycoside, a biologically active additive — dry birch bark extract (betulin), and PEG-50 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG-capric / capric) glycerides), cocoate glycerate-2, palmmarose oil and fir, as well as fresh birch sap, provide a new technical result. The essence of the new technical result lies in the increased biological activity of the agent, consisting of substances of natural origin, including birch bark extract and essential oils, when using their solution based on fresh birch sap (no more than 48 hours pass from the moment the juice is collected to its use in the preparation of shampoo) . It does not use: surfactants based on sulfate compounds, preservatives, colorants and flavors, salt and inorganic acids. Due to this, a hair wash based on a combination of these components is effective and safe, which is confirmed, in particular, by the wide spectrum of action of birch sap (due to the content of more than 10 types of organic acids in the juice, it dissolves various types of contaminants well and actively influences the condition skin) and birch bark extract (the antibacterial, antimutagenic and antioxidant activity of birch bark extract has been investigated and proven).

It is known to use synthetic and plant raw materials as surface-active, fragrant, preservative and other substances in food production, in perfumery, soap manufacture and in the manufacture of cosmetic preparations [Handbook on soap production. Ed. Ph.D. Tovbina I.M. - M.: Food Industry, 1974, 518 p. Handbook of fragrances and other synthetic products of the perfumery and cosmetics industry. Shuvalov L.M., Leshchiner A.S. - M .: Publishing house Food industry 1972, 152 p. Kheifits L.A., Dashunin V.M. Perfumes and other perfumery products. - M .: Chemistry, 1994 .-- 256 p. Butova S.N. et al. Report on the topic “Research on the possibility of using betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) containing betulin in fatty and cosmetic emulsion products and in refined sunflower oil”. Moscow State University of Food Production. Institute of Technology and Production Management. - M., 2008].

The use of birch sap in agriculture, perfumery and other industries is also known [see Ryabchik V.P. Deciduous tree juices: production and use. - Lviv: Vishcha school, Publishing house at Lviv University, 1988. - 152 p.]. In recent years, birch sap has been used to produce lotions, shampoo, and birch eau de toilette. Due to the content of betulin in the birch sap, the cosmetics produced from it have healing and refreshing properties. The composition, for example, Lotion "Birch" includes up to 30% of natural birch sap and up to 35% ethyl alcohol and glycerin.

It is also known to use concentrated birch sap, for example, to obtain a biostimulant [see RF patent No. 20144782, M.cl. A01N 65/00, publ. 06/30/1994], as well as birch bark extract containing betulin, for example, to increase the body's resistance to viral and other infections [see RF patent No. 2319497, M.cl. A61K 36/258, publ. June 20, 2007].

However, the proposed technical solution is fundamentally different in that the high organoleptic and microbiological properties of shampoos containing betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) (see the report on the topic “Research on the possibility of using betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) containing betulin in fat and cosmetic emulsion products and in refined sunflower oil. "Moscow State University of Food Production. Institute of Technology and Production Management. - M.: 2008), substantially significantly improve due to the use of fresh birch sap as a base component, the aging of which after its receipt does not exceed 48 hours. But first of all, the shampoo acquires new properties from the combination of the biological activity of fresh birch sap and birch bark extract. The range of application of shampoo becomes wider and its cleansing ability is more effective.

In the process of creating shampoo, various ingredients and their mass fractions in the formulation were tested. To replace harsh detergents such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate, mild surfactants such as sulfosuccinates, cocoamphoacetates, alkyl glycosides, glyceryl cocoates, and alkyl glucoside carboxylates were tested in shampoo formulations. Mass fractions of tested surfactants in the composition of model formulations ranged from 0.1 to 15.0% (Table 2).

During the experiments, it was found that not all types of soft surfactants are combined with each other, forming homogeneous compositions. Most of the tested soft surfactants are low foam even with a significant increase in their mass fraction in the formulation. Another significant drawback of soft surfactants is poor thickening.

Polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, carboxymethyl cellulose derivatives, xanthan gum, and ethoxylated polyglycerol stearic ester were tested as thickeners.

In the process of developing the shampoo formulation, surfactants were selected that formed dense homogeneous compositions without separation and sediment. The obtained samples of shampoos were analyzed for compliance with the requirements of DSTU 4315: 2004 "Cosmetics for cleansing the skin and hair." The main criterion for the final sampling was foaming ability as the main indicator of the quality of shampoos (Table 1). As a result, the following surfactants were included in the shampoo formulation:

- sulfobetaines;

- cocoamphomonoacetates;

- lauryl glucoside carboxylates;

glyceryl cocoates as emollients, as well as stearic ether of ethoxylated polyglycerol as a thickener. In addition to surfactants, shampoo formulations included: betulin-containing birch bark extract as an antioxidant, antibacterial and antimutagenic additive, allantoin - a natural substance - a moisturizing, softening additive that prevents hair loss, sodium cocoglutamate as an emulsifier made from plant materials, xanthan gum - thickener, in the role of aromatic substances - essential oils.

The technical solution is industrially applicable and is implemented as shampoos in a modern production environment.

The tables below show examples of the implementation of shampoos based on the claimed technical solution and the properties of the resulting shampoos.

table 2 Foaming ability of shampoos based on fresh birch sap and betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) Sample No. one 2 3 four 5 Foam column height immediately after shaking Ho (mm) 37 43 37 39 38 The height of the foam column after 5 min H _5izm (mm) 34 39 35 36 34 Foam stability coefficient 0.92 0.9 0.95 0.92 0.9

As a result of the experiment, it was found that the foaming ability and stability coefficient of the foam of the studied samples do not have significant differences with the control sample. The foam stability coefficient of all samples is within the limits of 0.8-1.0 provided for by shampoos.

The results of determining the microbiological purity of the experimental samples of shampoos are presented in table 3.

Table 3 Microbiological purity of prototypes of shampoos based on fresh birch sap and betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) Sample Number one 2 3 four 5 The total number of MAFANM, CFU in 1 g (cm ³ ) of the sample 1 * 102 Yeast, yeast-like, mold fungi, CFU in 1 g (cm ³ ) of sample Lack of Enterobacteriaceae family bacteria in 1 g (cm ³ ) of sample Lack of Pathogenic staphylococci in 1 g (cm ³ ) of the sample Lack of Pseudomonas aeruginosa Lack of

Table 4 Organoleptic characteristics of shampoos based on fresh birch sap and betulin-containing birch bark extract (BEB) Name Appearance Color Smell Stability of properties for at least 3 years, at 20 ° С Example 1 Jelly-like mass with barely noticeable insoluble particles of the extract Pale orange Pleasant, characteristic for this shampoo, without extraneous odors Stable Example 2 Jelly-like mass with distinguishable undissolved particles Pale yellow orange Pleasant, characteristic for this shampoo, without extraneous odors Stable Example 3 Slightly cloudy jelly-like mass with undissolved particles Turbid Pale Yellow Orange Pleasant, characteristic for this shampoo, without extraneous odors Stable Example 4 Turbid jelly-like mass with noticeable undissolved particles Cloudy pale yellow Pleasant, characteristic for this shampoo, without extraneous odors Stable Example 5 Turbid, jelly-like mass with clearly visible undissolved particles Cloudy pale yellow Pleasant, characteristic for this shampoo, without extraneous odors Stable

As can be seen from the description of technical solution implementation examples, shampoos made in accordance with the proposed compositions, due to increased biological activity, acquire properties such as hypoallergenicity, and effectiveness in solving a wide range of hair and scalp problems, such as dandruff, hair loss, and dermatological diseases. Shampoo based on fresh birch sap and birch bark extract is a mild and safe cleanser for all hair types.

Claims (1)

A shampoo for washing hair containing a surfactant, dietary supplement, fir oil, characterized in that it additionally contains PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG - capric / capric glycerides), glycerate-2 cocoate, palmmarose oil and fresh birch sap, as a surfactant - lauryl glucoside carboxylate, biologically active additives - dry birch bark extract (betulin), and birch sap extract from the moment of receipt does not exceed 48 hours, with the following quantitative ratio of components, m ac%:
fresh birch juice 70.50-72.50 birch bark extract (betulin) 0.05-2.00 PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 stearate (PEG - Capric / Capric Glycerides) 0.50-0.60 glycerate-2 cocoate 2.60-3.00 lauryl glucoside carboxylate 0.80-1.20 cocoamphomonoacetate sodium 5.00-5.40 sodium cocoglutamate 2.20-2.40 glyceryl cocoate PEG 7 1.40-1.60 xanthan gum 0.20-0.30 allantoin 0.14-0.16 fir oil 0.08-0.12 palmmarose oil 0.08-0.12 cocamidopropyl betaine rest