RU2054927C1 - Cream for skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine. SUBSTANCE: cream has stearic acid or cosmetic stearin, distilled monoglycerides, high-molecular alcohols, lanolin, sunflower oil, cotton oil or soybean oil, potassium hydroxide and triethanolamine, biologically active addition as 20 or 40% aqueous-spirituous extract of rosewort biomass, glycerol, ethanol, borax, fragrant and water. Additionally, cream has chladon-12 or hydrocarbon propellent. Cream shows good absorption, eliminates dryness, improves skin properties. EFFECT: enhanced quality of cream.

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely cosmetology, and for the development of cosmetics intended for skin care of the face and body.

 Cosmetics intended for face and body skin care are known and produced by industry, containing fatty components, vitamins, extracts of plant materials and other biologically active substances.

 A well-known face care cream containing cosmetic stearin, distilled monoglycerides, sunflower oil, glycerin, a biologically active additive from ginseng biomass (strain RI), ethyl alcohol, triethanolamine, perfume, hydrocarbon propellant and water (patent RU 2017481 class A 61 K 7/00; 7/48; 1993).

 The closest in technical essence and the achieved result is a facial skin cream containing emulsion wax, stearin, glycerol monostearate, monoglycerides, lanolin beeswax, peat wax ethanol extract stearates, olive oil, mink oil, glycerin, 20 ethanolamine % hydroalcoholic infusion of Rhodiola rosea biomass, ethyl alcohol, methyl and propyl esters of paroxybenzoic acid, paraforms, fragrance and water (USSR copyright certificate 1611337 class A 61 K 7/00, 1988).

 However, the well-known cream is multicomponent, difficult to manufacture, has predominantly bactericidal and regenerative properties.

 The aim of the invention is to create an emulsion cream for any type of skin that is well absorbed into the skin, softens and tones it.

To achieve the goal, a cream including a thickener, distilled monoglycerides, lanolin, vegetable oil, a biologically active additive from Rhodiola rosea biomass, glycerin, ethyl alcohol, perfume and water, additionally contains high molecular weight alcohols and borax, and as a thickener, stearic acid or cosmetic stearin, sunflower oil, cottonseed or soybean, biologically active additive in the form of a 20 or 40% aqueous alcoholic extract of the mass of Rhodiola rosea, as well as potassium hydroxide or triethalamine, etc. the following component ratio, wt. stearic acid or cosmetic stearin 2.8-4.0; distilled monoglycerides 1.5-2.0; high molecular weight alcohols 0.65-1.0; lanolin 1.5-2.0; sunflower, cottonseed or soybean oil 8.5-10.0; potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine 0.15-0.2; 20 or 40% aqueous alcoholic extract of Rhodiola rosea 1.5-2.5; distilled glycerin 5.5-6.0; ethyl alcohol 2.5-3.5; borax 0.08-0.14; perfume 1.0-1.5; water the rest;
In addition, the cream for the care of the skin of the face and body additionally contains a freon-12 or hydrocarbon propellant in an amount of 10-12%
The introduction of sunflower, cotton or soybean oil into the cream in the range of 8.5-10.0% provides an optimal nutritional effect on the skin. The introduction of oils below 8.5% into the cream does not provide the optimal nutritional effect on the skin. The introduction of oils in the formulation above 10.0% creates an overwhelming effect on the skin.

 An emollient and moisture-absorbing component is glycerin in an amount of 5.5-6.0%. The introduction of glycerol below 5.5% into the cream formulation does not provide an optimal emollient and moisture-absorbing action. The introduction of glycerol above 6.0% affects the structure of the cream.

 As an emulsifier, distilled monoglycerides in an amount of 1.5-2% are introduced into the cream. Their introduction into the formulation below 1.5% does not provide an emulsifying effect, and above 2% it creates a rigid cream structure.

 Cosmetic stearin or stearic acid is used as a builder and introduced into the cream in an amount of 2.8-4.0%. Changing the stearin content below and above the specified limit does not provide the desired cream structure.

 As surface-active substances, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine in the amount of 0.15-0.2% is used. Changing the potassium content of hydroxide or triethanolamine does not allow to achieve the optimal emulsifying effect, violates the structure of the cream.

High molecular weight alcohols of synthetic fatty acids of the C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fraction are introduced into the cream in an amount of 0.65-1.0% as a structure-forming component. The indicated content of high molecular weight alcohols promotes the formation of stable emulsions.

 As a structure-forming component, lanolin was introduced in an amount of 1.5-2.0%. A decrease and increase in the lanolin content violates the consistency of the cream, reduces its thermal stability. Ethyl alcohol in an amount of 2.5-3.5% is introduced as a preservative. A decrease in its concentration does not provide a preservative effect, and an increase in the content dilutes the cream.

 The propellant is formulated with the aerosol cream. As a propellant, an environmentally friendly hydrocarbon propellant is predominantly used in an amount of 10-12% but can be used in the same amount of Freon-12. The aerosol packaging of the cream ensures its economical use due to the foam state, the cream is easily applied to the skin, the shelf life of the cream increases.

 As biologically active additives, a 20 or 40% aqueous-alcoholic extract of Rhodiola rosea biomass in the amount of 1.5-2.5% Rhodiola rosea, or golden root, has long been used in folk medicine. The predatory extermination of the wild-growing root and the limited possibilities of its plantation reproduction posed a problem for scientists to grow this valuable drug using tissue culture. Currently, the Cosmoform Concern produces golden root biomass by surface cultivation of the 3 K strain 1 in vitro. Rhodiola rosea sem strain. Сrassulaceae deposited at the All-Russian Research Institute of Biotechnology. The starting material for the preparation was 4-5 internodes of sterile growing seedlings at the age of 45 days.

 Cultural properties of tissue. Callus tissue from light gray to beige (actively growing) to brown and black (old); growth index 8–9 (by fresh weight), the number of living cells 90–91% as determined by staining with 0.1% phenosafranin solution.

The method of cultivation. Cultivation on solid nutrient medium. Standard culture conditions: temperature 22-24 ^{° C,} 65-70% humidity in the dark, the agar medium. 200 ml growing vessels containing 50-60 ml of culture medium. pH of the medium is 5.8-6.2. The ratio of sieving 1: 8-9. Features: Dried biomass at 50-60 ^{° C} has a specific smell and taste. Passage number 148. Storage method: reseeding method (growing cycle duration 25-28 days).

 Cytological characteristic: the culture mainly consists of round cells. Young cells of irregular angular shape, 50-150 microns in size. Separate vascular elements, as well as hydrosides, are found in the tissue. In the process of growth, cells grow and individual cells reach a size of 370 microns. The nuclei in the cells are mainly rounded in shape. They have from 1 to 8 nucleoli of different sizes. Sizes of cores from 10 to 60 microns. Individual prophase nuclei reach a size of 90 microns. Karyological characteristic: the average number of chromosomes is 100-660, the modal class is 116-170, the presence of marker chromosomes is not noted, the ability to morphogenesis is absent. Qualitative and quantitative characteristics in air-dried tissue on the 25th day of growth, the total amount of phenolic compounds in terms of salidroside is 0.3%. The strain activity is determined by the ability to accumulate phenolic compounds with adaptogenic action spectrum.

 The dry biomass of the golden root is similar to the natural root. By extracting the dry biomass of Rhodiola rosea, 20 or 40% aqueous alcohol solutions are prepared. By the composition of biologically active substances, they are not inferior to the natural root. The use of hydroalcoholic extracts of Rhodiola rosea biomass as a dietary supplement in creams causes physiological stimulation of epidermal cells, improves cutaneous capillary blood circulation, reduces inflammatory processes and the cream has a pronounced tonic effect. As a dietary supplement, the extracts can be introduced into lotions, shampoos.

 PRI me R. The cream contains, by weight.

Stearic Acid or Stearic Acid for Qualification Stearates Pure or
Technical stearic acid, special grade A or B or cosmetic stearin 2.8-4.0 Distilled monoglycerides 1.5-2.0 High molecular weight alcohols of synthetic fatty acids, fraction C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 0 65-1.0 Lanolin 1.5-2.0 Sunflower or cottonseed or soybean oil 8.5-10.0 Potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine 0.15-0.2 20 or 40% hydroalcoholic extract of Rhodiola rosea biomass 1 , 5-2.5 Glycerin distilled premium, first or dynamite 5.5-6.0 Ethyl alcohol 2.5-3.5 Borax 0.08-0.14 Fragrance 1.0-1.5 Drinking water
If necessary, Freon-12 or hydrocarbon propellant is introduced into the cream.

The method of preparation of the cream. To prepare the cream in a reactor with a capacity of 5 m ³ made of stainless steel, load, kg: vegetable oil (sunflower, cotton or soybean) 362.25, glycerin 234.38, stearic acid or cosmetic stearin 119.25, distilled monoglycerides 63, 75, lanolin 63.75, high molecular weight alcohols of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 27.75 and drinking water 2612.76. The contents of the reactor are heated until the components are completely dissolved 30-40 minutes At 70-75 ^on the reactor is charged with constant stirring potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine, 6.39 kg and 4.12 kg of borax. The emulsification process is carried out at 70-80 ^about With and stirring for 25-30 minutes At the end of emulsification, the emulsion is disinfected with ultraviolet radiation. In order to obtain a uniform appearance and improve the consistency of the fat base of the cream, the emulsion is homogenized, then it is again pumped to the reactor, where it is cooled with stirring. After cooling to ^50-55 ° C was added Bioadditives biomass Rhodiola rosea 85.1 kg ethyl alcohol and 127.87 kg. With constant stirring, the reactor content is cooled to 40-45 ^C, add perfume and 42.6 stirred for 30 min. The finished mass is Packed. When filling cream into cylinders, a hydrocarbon propellant or Freon-12 510 kg are additionally introduced into the cream.

 The yield of finished product is 4260 kg.

 An emulsion cream with a biologically active additive from biomass Rhodiola rosea was tested at the Moscow Medical Dental Institute. N. A. Semashko, at the Department of Skin and Sexually Transmitted Diseases. The cream was tested on 28 volunteers (of which 5 men and 23 women) aged 19 to 55 years for 1 month.

Before the test, 9 volunteers underwent compression allergy tests with cream. For this, a four-fold gauze napkin, 1 × ¹ cm ^{2 in area, was} smeared with a test agent and applied to the skin of the front surface of the forearm or epigastric region. The napkin was covered with a 4x4 cm ² medical oilcloth and fixed with a toplast bandage, which is a sheet of rubber patch with a round window in the center with a diameter of 0.9 cm, where there is gauze, which is impregnated with a glass rod with the test substance. The centers of the diagnostic windows are 4.5 cm distant from each other. The reaction was taken into account after 24, 48 or 72 hours.

 A test was considered positive in which the following occurred at the site of exposure of the proposed drug: erythema (+); erythema; edema; papule (++); a pronounced inflammatory reaction, against which papules and vesicles (+++) differed; large blisters and tissue necrosis (++++). Extreme studies have not revealed locally irritating and allergenic properties of the cream.

 A small amount of cream is applied to the previously cleansed face and hands and is evenly distributed with soft finger movements 2 times a day in the morning and evening. As tests have shown, the cream has a pleasant smell, soft texture, is easily applied to the skin, is well absorbed without leaving a greasy residue, eliminates dryness, softens, tones the skin. With regular use of the cream, the skin becomes velvety and supple. The cream has a beneficial effect regardless of skin type and does not have an irritating or allergenic effect.

Claims (1)

1. SKIN CARE CREAM, including thickening agent, distilled monoglycerides, lanolin, vegetable oil, surfactants, biologically active additive from rose biomass, pink glycerin, ethyl alcohol, perfume and water, characterized in that it additionally contains high molecular weight synthetic alcohols fatty acid fraction C _{1 6} - _{2 0} C and borax, and in a thickener - stearin or stearic acid cosmetics, vegetable oil, sunflower, cottonseed or soybean oil, a biologically active additive as 20 and and 40% hydroalcoholic extract radiograms pink biomass, as well as potassium hydroxide, or triethanolamine with the following component ratio, wt.%:
Cosmetic stearic acid or cosmetic stearin - 2.8 - 4.0
Distilled monoglycerides - 1.5 - 2.0
High molecular weight alcohols of synthetic fatty acids of fraction C _{1 6} - C _{2 0} - 0.65 - 1.0
Lanolin - 1.5 - 2.0
Sunflower oil, or cottonseed, or soybean - 8.5 - 10.0
Potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine - 0.15 - 0.2
20 or 40% hydroalcoholic extract of Rhodiola rosea biomass - 1.5 - 2.5
Glycerin - 5.5 - 6.0
Ethyl alcohol - 2.5 - 3.5
Borax - 0.08 - 0.14
Fragrance - 1.0 - 1.5
Water - Else
2. The cream according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally contains freon-12 or hydrocarbon propellant in an amount of 10-12%.