RU2290172C1 - Cosmetic agent - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology, cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: invention proposes a cosmetic agent comprising components of vegetable and animal origin and water involves additionally antioxidant complex representing a mixture of antioxidants tocopherol and "Epofen", gel-forming component, monoglycerides, emulsion wax, complex lecithin/polyethylene siloxane or preserved lipid complex or emulsion complex № 2 - "Murka", caton, shilagit, propyl and methyl esters, triethanolamine or 10% NaOH solution, perfume composition or perfume. Components are taken in the definite quantitative ratio. The cosmetic agent possesses the high biological activity with the expressed rejuvination, sanitation and anti-inflammatory effect and provides prolongation of its storing period also. The agent protects epidermis, provides nutrition of tissues and stimulates metabolic processes, enhances the skin tone and possesses the high sanitation effect. Invention can be used in preparing cosmetic external agents of type gels, balsams and creams used in rejuvination, control of photoageing of skin, treatment and care for problem and aging skin.

EFFECT: valuable properties of agent.

3 cl, 3 ex

Description

The invention relates to biology, cosmetology, medicine and may find application in the manufacture of external cosmetic and medicinal products such as gels, balms, creams for rejuvenation, anti-photoaging of skin, treatment and care for problem and aging skin, as well as to stimulate cellular respiration and regeneration skin, strengthening its protective functions to the effects of lipid peroxidation, in the case when there are phenomena of tissue hypoxia.

In cosmetology and dermatology, antioxidant-based products are widely used, which are non-toxic, do not irritate the skin, do not cause allergies, but at the same time have a tonic, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging effect. In known products, vitamin E is used alone or in combination with vitamin C or other antioxidants.

In recent years, substances of a new generation have appeared, which are polyphenolic compounds. Such substances include olifen, epofen, biofen.

A cosmetic product is known that contains freshly grown cells of the algae Spirulina platensis and drying oil, which has a regenerative effect on the skin and helps smooth wrinkles, scars, and treat neurodermatitis (RF patent No. 2173985, A 61 K 7/48, 2001, BI No. 17).

A well-known cosmetic product based on the aquagomogenate of sturgeon caviar or based on the aquagomogenate of salmon caviar, or on the basis of the complex of agagomogenate of sturgeon and salmon caviar is the closest and selected as a prototype (patent RU No. 2232587, MKI ⁷ A 61 K 35/60, 7/48, BI No. 20, 2004). The product includes an active principle - the aqua homogenate of sturgeon and salmon caviar, and tocopherol (vitamin E) as an antioxidant. The known product has regulatory properties and anti-inflammatory effect, but is not suitable for all skin types, in particular, it can irritate sensitive skin. A rich substrate of lipids in the agent can become a target for starting the process of peroxidation, which is cascading in nature.

The task of the invention is the creation of a targeted cosmetic product with high biological activity, with a pronounced anti-aging, healing and anti-inflammatory effect, as well as extending the shelf life of the finished form.

The technical result is that the use of a mixture of the substance Epofen and tocopherol (vitamin E) in a cosmetic product increases its effectiveness and increases the shelf life. The proposed tool enhances the moisture-saving, energy and protective properties of the epidermis, nourishes and stimulates metabolic processes, increases skin tone and has a high healing effect.

The shelf life of the product is increased to 1.5-3 years. This is extremely important for creams and balms with a high content of lipid phase, where the shelf life is limited to one year. The increase in shelf life, especially the biological activity of cosmetics, is economically justified and meets the requirements of preserving consumer rights. The concentration of the Epofen-Vitamin E (EE) complex depends on the concentration of the fat phase of the administration of the finished product.

The above result is achieved by the fact that the claimed cosmetic product, including components of plant and marine origin, water, additionally contains an antioxidant complex, which is a mixture of antioxidants tocopherol (vitamin E) and Epophene, which is an analogue of polyphenolic compounds of natural origin and consists of two six-membered aromatic cycles , in the ratio of the first to the second 8-10: 0.01-2, a gelling agent selected from the group of carbomer, carbopol, polysaccharides from flax seeds and flower linden, glycerin, monoglycerides, emulsion wax, lecithin: polyethylene siloxane (PES) complex in a ratio of 1: 0.5 or canned lipid complex or emulsion complex No. 2 - Murka, caton, mummy, propyl and ethyl esters, triethanolamine (TEA ) or 10% NaOH, perfume composition or fragrance in the following ratio of components in the agent, wt.%:

Plant components 0.01-2.5 Components of marine origin 0.001-0.06 Antioxidant complex 0.001-0.1 Gelling agent 0.01-2.0 Monoglycerides 1,0 Emulsion Wax 2.0 Lecithin Complex: Polyethylene Siloxane 1.0-2.0 (in a ratio of 1: 0.5) or Preserved Lipid Complex 0.7 or emulsion complex No. 2 "Murka" 30,0 Caton 0.005-0.05 Mummy 0.02 Propyl ether 0.01 Methyl ether 0.3 Triethanolamine or NaOH 10% 0.35 Perfume or fragrance 0.01-0.1 Water Rest

As plant components, it contains components selected from the group cocoa butter, coconut oil, sesame oil, essential oils of myrrh, geranium, rosemary, ylang-ylang, orange, shikonin, extracts of echinacea, linden flowers, flax seeds, olive oil, jojoba oil , jasmine, apricot essential oil, aloe juice, deltostim, aqueous extract of yarrow seeds, clover, clover, alfalfa.

As components of marine origin, it contains fractions of salmon and sturgeon caviar, and DNA from sturgeon milk.

The tool can be presented in the form of a cream, gel, balm, ointment, lotion, shampoo, dental elixir.

The tool is a complex system of emulsion and vesicular particles of very small size (from 50 to 150 microns), stabilized by polymers of various nature, or a gel form, or an emulsion form, or a liquid product (such as lotion).

A unique antioxidant and antihypoxic complex containing a new generation of Epofen and Tocopherol (Vitamin E) substances ensures the regulation of lipid peroxidation processes, preventing premature aging of the skin, the use of internal cell reserves by activating oxygen-carbon and energy metabolism.

Known wound ointment "Epofen". The composition provides a combination of high repair characteristics of the active principle with high gas permeability and contains soluble salts of lanthanides and oliphene as the active principle (RF patent No. 2141820, BI No. 33, 1999), but does not have a rejuvenating effect.

Epofen has a high antioxidant activity, developed by Medical Center Forma LLC, St. Petersburg and Iglesia Research and Production Complex, Moscow, manufactured by Ecotec-Biofarm LLC, St. Petersburg, TU 9154-001-11180956-2003. It has the highest activity compared to oliphene and biophene. A mixture of Epofen with tocopherol in a ratio of 8-10: 0.01-2 is optimal and allows you to maximize the use of internal energy reserves of cells to combat lipid peroxidation processes, to extend the shelf life of cosmetics with different m lipid content.

Ready-made cosmetic preparations are made according to a specific technological scheme.

I Preparation of ingredients.

1. Dissolve the polymer.

2. Mix glycerin, sharomiks, katon.

3. Melt monoglycerides, emulsion wax, oils: cocoa, coconut, introduce sesame oil. Components: lecithin, olive oil, jojoba, black and red caviar fractions, essential oils of geranium, myrrh, rosemary, vitamin E are mixed until uniform.

4. To prepare aqueous solutions from a dry extract of echinacea, Epofen, flax seeds, linden flowers, filter.

II. The process of obtaining the finished product.

The molten fatty phase and water are introduced into the reactor (RCC), an emulsification process is carried out. A polymer is introduced into the finished emulsion and a suspension of lipid vesicles obtained by high-speed dispersion is mixed. Homogenization is carried out at maximum speed of the mixer under vacuum for 10-15 minutes. Then a preservative complex is driven and the whole mass is mixed under the control of pH6.9-7.4. Vitamin E and Epofen are introduced into the drug in a ratio of the first to the second 8-10: 0.01-2.

Specific examples of the invention are presented below. The presented examples are not limited to the list of possibly obtained cosmetic products.

Example 1. A cosmetic product in the form of cream "Golden Balsam".

Cream "Golden Balsam" has the following composition, wt.%:

Emulsion Wax 2 Monoglycerides one Cacao butter 0.5 Coconut oil 0.5 Sesame oil 0.5 Fractions of granular sturgeon caviar 0.06 Fractions of granular salmon fish roe 0.06 Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 0.05 Essence of Epofen 0.001 Geranium essential oil 0.05 Myrrh essential oil 0.01 Rosemary essential oil 0.01 Shikonin (Rhizome Rhizome extract) 0,03 DNA of sturgeon milk 0.001 Echinacea Extract 0.02 Linden flower water extract 0.02 Flaxseed Water Extract 0.01 Complex "Lecithin: PES" (1: 0.5) 1,5 Olive oil 2 Jojoba oil 0.2 Carbomer 0.375 Caton 0.05 Perfumery composition 0.01 Water Rest

The cosmetic product has a general tonic effect, moisturizes the skin, stimulates blood circulation in the capillaries, improves metabolic processes, turgor of the skin, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, strengthens the immune properties of the skin, accelerates the process of renewal of skin cells, restores the skin’s ability to self-moisturize, thanks to the use of a unique antioxidant-antihypoxant complex tocopherol: Epofen in a ratio of 10: 2.

The cream has a thin, soft texture, a pleasant smell of essential oils, a delicate color. Recommended for use in beauty salons for lifting, as well as at the stage of intensive care for aging skin. The shelf life of the product is increased to 1.5-2 years.

The universality of the proposed combination of vitamin E and Epofen allows its use in other compositions. The ratio of tocopherol and Epofen 8-10: 0.01-2 made it possible to obtain a unique eye contour care product with a high effect: smoothing wrinkles and a noticeable improvement in skin color, as well as reducing eye fatigue.

Example 2. A cosmetic product in the form of a gel-contour for skin care around the eyes.

The gel contour has the following composition, wt.%:

Carbopol 0.4 Glycerol 2 Caton 0.005 Methyl ether 0.3 Propyl ether 0.1 TEA (or 10% NaOH) 0.35 Lecithin 2 Polyethylsiloxane (PES) one Linden flower oil extract 2,5 Yarrow Oil Extract 2 Preserved Lipid Complex 0.7 Cacao butter 0.5 Sesame oil 2 Coconut oil 0.6 Apricot oil 0.65 Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 0.1 Essence of Epofen 0.01 Essential oil of orange 0.06 Santala essential oil 0.06 Jasmine essential oil 0,03 Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 0.08 Geranium essential oil 0.04 Clover wind farm 2 Aloe juice 0.5 Deltostim 0.00005 Water Rest

A cosmetic product in the form of a gel contour provides antioxidant protection to the skin of the eyelids. A mixture of tocopherol: Epofen in a ratio of 10: 1.

Example 3. A cosmetic product in the form of a cream-Mumiye balm.

Mumiye balm has the following composition, wt.%:

Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 0.12 Geranium essential oil 0.02 Fragrance AK 044 0.14 Baby perfume 0.1 Wind farm clover 2.2 Wind farm alfalfa 2.2 Mummy 0.02 Dye yellow 0.3% 0.08 Grape Vinegar 7% 0.8 Caton 0.05 Emulsion complex number 2 (Murka) thirty Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 0.1 Essence of Epofen 0.001 Water Rest

Cosmetic product in the form of a cream balm "Mumiye Cream" with a high content of fats for a soothing effect has a healing and restorative effect, while it has a sufficient shelf life.

Clinical and other trials

Clinical trials of the cosmetic product were carried out on 78 volunteers, women of different age categories: from 32 to 65 years old, with various types of facial skin, as well as with signs of peeling, excessive dry skin and low elasticity. The term of clinical studies was at least four weeks with the determination of the index of skin hydration before and after applying the cosmetic product. This study was performed on a skin analyzer "Gebrauchsanweisung Skin Analyzer Softline" (Germany). The clinical status of the probants was evaluated with a frequency of observation once a week.

At the first stage of the work, before the start of clinical testing, skin tests were performed on the skin of the forearm of the probants. In no case were signs of irritation observed.

Specialists-dermatocosmetologists who conducted clinical trials, as well as the subjects themselves, noted that cosmetic products are convenient in practical use.

Within a month, a clinical trial of the proposed cosmetic product was conducted. For the study, 15 women with signs of premature skin aging were selected. The age of the patients ranged from 32 to 50 years. The product was applied twice a day - in the morning and in the evening for a month. In this case, the use of any additional cosmetic products, as well as physiotherapeutic or manual methods of cosmetic correction, was completely excluded. To evaluate the drug, subjective and objective evaluations were carried out. In this case, a subjective assessment was carried out by the patients themselves, taking into account complaints and tolerability. An objective assessment was carried out on the basis of clinical observation by a dermatologist and analysis using a Visioscan VC98 device with a camera and Video Digitizer VD300 using the SELS2000 computer program. All studies were carried out under the same conditions of humidity and air temperature.

A clinical evaluation by a dermatologist was carried out taking into account the following parameters: hydration, skin elasticity, superficial wrinkles, complexion, skin tone, roughness, severity of superficial wrinkles. The assessment was carried out using a 5-point system.

Analysis of the results: a good moisturizing effect - 93%; the agent is quickly absorbed - 93%; marked effect of skin softening is noted - 87%; reduction in skin roughness - 67%; good tolerance - the absence of itching, tingling and redness - 100%; reduction in the number of surface wrinkles - 47%.

Clinical evaluation by a dermatologist: moisturizing 5 points - 97%, skin elasticity 4 points - 67%, superficial wrinkles 3 points - 67%, complexion 4 points - 80%, skin tone 4 points - 80%, roughness 4 points - 97 %, the severity of superficial wrinkles 3 points - 80%.

Analysis using a Visioscan VC98 device with a camera and Video Digitizer VD300 using the SELS2000 computer program: improving skin smoothness - 80% of cases; decrease in skin roughness - 97% of cases; increased humidity of the stratum corneum - 80% of cases; increased humidity of the dermal layer - 67% of cases; wrinkle reduction in 27% of cases.

Physico-chemical studies

An objective assessment of the degree of preservation of the finished product under conditions of high temperature insolation (up to 30 ° C) showed the advantages of using the proposed complex of vitamin E and Epofen in comparison with other cosmetics where vitamin E is used independently. Epofen in the composition of a cosmetic product is used for the first time and in action, as well as in properties, exceeds the known drying oils, biofen, coenzyme Q and others.

To predict the optimal form of the formulation, the peroxide value in the cosmetic product was previously determined after processing the product for photoaging. In the samples of the finished product, in addition to standard active components with antioxidant activity, various antioxidants (AO), as well as options for their possible combinations, were additionally included. After irradiation of the finished samples, each of them was analyzed in accordance with GOST 26593-85 (determination of the peroxide value) in an independent laboratory and organoleptic indicators were evaluated.

Claims (3)

1. Cosmetic product, which includes components of plant and marine origin, water, characterized in that the product additionally contains an antioxidant complex, which is a mixture of antioxidants tocopherol (vitamin E) and Epophene, which is an analogue of polyphenolic compounds of natural origin and consists of two six-membered aromatic cycles in a ratio of the first to the second 8-10: 0.01-2, a gelling agent selected from the carbomer group, polysaccharides from flax seeds and linden flowers, carbopol, glycerin, and onoglycerides, emulsion wax, lecithin: polyethylene siloxane (PES) complex in a ratio of 1: 0.5 or canned lipid complex or emulsion complex No. 2 - Murka, caton, mummy, propyl and methyl esters, triethanolamine (TEA) or NaOH 10% , perfume composition or fragrance in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Plant components 0.01-2.5 Components of marine origin 0.001-0.06 Antioxidant complex 0.001-0.1 Gelling agent 0.01-2.0 Monoglycerides 1,0 Emulsion Wax 2.0 Lecithin Complex: Polyethylene Siloxane (in a ratio of 1: 0.5) 1.0-2.0 or canned lipid complex 0.7 or emulsion complex No. 2 "Murka" 30,0 Caton 0.005-0.05 Mummy 0.02 Propyl ether 0.01 Methyl ether 0.3 Triethanolamine or NaOH 10% 0.35 Perfume or fragrance 0.01-0.1 Water Rest 2. As plant components, it contains components selected from the group: cocoa butter, coconut oil, sesame oil, essential oils of myrrh, geranium, rosemary, ylang-ylang, orange, shikonin, extracts of echinacea, linden blossoms, flax seeds, olive oil , jojoba oil, jasmine, apricot essential oil, aloe juice, deltostim, aqueous extract of yarrow, clover, clover, alfalfa seeds. 3. As components of marine origin, it contains fractions of salmon and sturgeon caviar, DNA from sturgeon milk.